Hello People! Thanks for joining me for more guitar restoration videos! This one has Leprocy. Cheers, Scotty D., Harpeth Guitar Restoration, LLC. Nashville, Tennessee
Hello. You got my attention when Sandrac resin was mentioned. Nobody else ever does! Piano SB's were Sandrac resin/turpentine ! on these very old ones anyways, the organic days--before synthetics. The guitars were brushed resin varnish with turpentine, lacquer didn't arrive on piano;s until after WW1, and spray was a very new development. There was never any "shellac" on any piano nor on guitars. It was heat treated oil and resin at high temp. Just to say. Yes----lacquer thinner mixes somewhat with shelac and then can be brushed on without surface tension! = shiny/smooth. Nice to see someone talking finishes!.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1970 LG-0 and the rosewood bridge is chipped out like that. It would be great if you could do a detailed video of that process and explain where you got the jack, what "the accelerator" is, etc.
Nice job! Your trick on filling the bridge plate was worth the cost of admission! I had an LG-0 on the bench not too long ago, but it wasn't nearly as dried out as that, but it had some fairly deep scratches that the owner wanted less conspicuous, so I used retarder on them, which melted the old nitro and blended in nicely. It's like removing a scratch on a car, it's really still there, but the edges of the scratch are softened so they don't stand out, unless you hold it just right in the light. Seasons Greetings from the southeast side of town!
This guitar is my age, but her skin is way more wrinkled... Very interesting treatment and nice results with real improvement I don't think the way you repair the varnish wouldn't lessen the value of the guitar. It's a repair, not a refinish and to me (i'n not an appraiser..) it's legit. The nitro checking as an appeal but this one exemple was way beyond that. On his vids Tom Woodford says that (cold) fish glue (he use that a lot) may be better than hide or wood glue for non wood items like that little pearl dots.. It may worth a try. IIRC i heard you quoting him in a past vid...
Your videos are really entertaining and up there with Ted Woodford. As a luthier myself, I have difficulty understanding your use of StewMac. True, they have some unique and interesting tools but buying essential supplies and tools easily made, seems to be just a waste of money. Maybe charging $80-&100 gives you the margin to be able to afford StewMac prices. Here in the UK, the carriage alone makes it too expensive. I wonder if you can tell me why they are so popular in North America.
Thank You! StewMac has almost everything. I’m only a few hundred miles away from their warehouse and get my orders fast. Plus they have great customer service and offer free shipping with a StewMax membership. (In the USA)
Excellent work, and thanks for sharing this video! I was wondering if you have to somehow remove any layers of oil and/or wax from the surface before you do a lacquer touch-up like this? I wasn't sure if something like naphtha would be what you use. Thanks, and we appreciate your videos.
Good lesson video! I have seen other LGO's with similar reptilian checking. Its quite different than other Gibsons. Makes me wonder if Gibson used a different type of finish on these?
I was thinking about your videos earlier today. Since I started watching them, my finish fixes have evolved at light speed. This video is cool because I own a 1958 LG 0 and a 1962 LG 0. The 58 has a spruce top. From all I have read I did not think they put spruce on the top in 58. The binding looks legit. I wonder if someone replaced the top with spruce and just did a perfect job salvaging the binding. Anyway, this video will be great because I am going to start working on my LG 0s very soon. I finished watching and then did this edit. I sure hope my 2 LG 0s turn out as well as yours did.
Great video very informative! When doing the measurements of ratios is 60/40 like for example 60 ml nitro with 40 ml lacquer thinner in a measuring cup ? Then 100 ml of that with 100 ml of retarder ? Thank you for your time
I'm a little confused Scott. The mixture you were applying in the video, is it lacquer out of the can mixed with lacquer thinner (60/40)?? Then you take that mixture and go 50/50 with it and lacquer retardant? Is that correct??
Hello.
You got my attention when Sandrac resin was mentioned.
Nobody else ever does!
Piano SB's were Sandrac resin/turpentine ! on these very old ones anyways, the organic days--before synthetics.
The guitars were brushed resin varnish with turpentine, lacquer didn't arrive on piano;s until after WW1, and spray was a very new development.
There was never any "shellac" on any piano nor on guitars.
It was heat treated oil and resin at high temp.
Just to say.
Yes----lacquer thinner mixes somewhat with shelac and then can be brushed on without surface tension! = shiny/smooth.
Nice to see someone talking finishes!.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1970 LG-0 and the rosewood bridge is chipped out like that. It would be great if you could do a detailed video of that process and explain where you got the jack, what "the accelerator" is, etc.
Thanks! I have a bridge plate playlist >>>>
Bridge Plates
th-cam.com/play/PLqDjILKk8n1bhrXBd3KBMc7yu9-to53xN.html
Nice job! Your trick on filling the bridge plate was worth the cost of admission! I had an LG-0 on the bench not too long ago, but it wasn't nearly as dried out as that, but it had some fairly deep scratches that the owner wanted less conspicuous, so I used retarder on them, which melted the old nitro and blended in nicely. It's like removing a scratch on a car, it's really still there, but the edges of the scratch are softened so they don't stand out, unless you hold it just right in the light. Seasons Greetings from the southeast side of town!
Awesome! Thanks and Happy Holidays
I know its someone's baby ,but it is not big on tone.
Wow! Looks and sounds fantastic.
This guitar is my age, but her skin is way more wrinkled... Very interesting treatment and nice results with real improvement
I don't think the way you repair the varnish wouldn't lessen the value of the guitar. It's a repair, not a refinish and to me (i'n not an appraiser..) it's legit. The nitro checking as an appeal but this one exemple was way beyond that.
On his vids Tom Woodford says that (cold) fish glue (he use that a lot) may be better than hide or wood glue for non wood items like that little pearl dots.. It may worth a try. IIRC i heard you quoting him in a past vid...
Your videos are really entertaining and up there with Ted Woodford. As a luthier myself, I have difficulty understanding your use of StewMac. True, they have some unique and interesting tools but buying essential supplies and tools easily made, seems to be just a waste of money. Maybe charging $80-&100 gives you the margin to be able to afford StewMac prices. Here in the UK, the carriage alone makes it too expensive. I wonder if you can tell me why they are so popular in North America.
Thank You!
StewMac has almost everything. I’m only a few hundred miles away from their warehouse and get my orders fast. Plus they have great customer service and offer free shipping with a StewMax membership. (In the USA)
It looks much better after you worked on it.
Excellent work, and thanks for sharing this video! I was wondering if you have to somehow remove any layers of oil and/or wax from the surface before you do a lacquer touch-up like this? I wasn't sure if something like naphtha would be what you use. Thanks, and we appreciate your videos.
Thanks Clyde!
I didn’t have to clean this one. It was ready (and thirsty for lacquer) If it was dirty, I’d say naphtha would be the safest bet.
Good lesson video! I have seen other LGO's with similar reptilian checking. Its quite different than other Gibsons. Makes me wonder if Gibson used a different type of finish on these?
Much thinner finish on these. Absolutely. And they have laminated sides.
I was thinking about your videos earlier today. Since I started watching them, my finish fixes have evolved at light speed. This video is cool because I own a 1958 LG 0 and a 1962 LG 0. The 58 has a spruce top. From all I have read I did not think they put spruce on the top in 58. The binding looks legit. I wonder if someone replaced the top with spruce and just did a perfect job salvaging the binding. Anyway, this video will be great because I am going to start working on my LG 0s very soon.
I finished watching and then did this edit. I sure hope my 2 LG 0s turn out as well as yours did.
This is excellent. It sounds like you have quite the collection!
@@harpethguitar I have several guitars but mostly only play my Washburn 100SWK. Sounds like I need to thin the herd.
What would happen if you tinted that brush on mixture? Some of the older 1950's LG-0 are darker brown.
I’ve never tried it Phil!
Maybe it would darken the cracks, maybe it would help.
Looking way better! Is it possible to brush on the 60/40 without retarder?
50/50 with retarder because it evaporates slower than thinner but anything is possible depending on the situation 🤓
Great video very informative! When doing the measurements of ratios is 60/40 like for example 60 ml nitro with 40 ml lacquer thinner in a measuring cup ? Then 100 ml of that with 100 ml of retarder ? Thank you for your time
I'm a little confused Scott. The mixture you were applying in the video, is it lacquer out of the can mixed with lacquer thinner (60/40)?? Then you take that mixture and go 50/50 with it and lacquer retardant? Is that correct??
YES! Unless you use StewMac spraying lacquer. Theirs is already thinned. I think I was using Minwax brushing lacquer
Can you please give me the serial number.
I have a Gibson Lgo. T5864_17 . The. # is inside,not on the headstock.
I don’t have the guitar anymore 😫
@@harpethguitar thanks The serial number that I
Gave. does it. Sound. Legit.
Depends on the year I guess. My ‘66 is 400500 and there is no label inside the guitar
😞
My 65' LG-0 is #336335
no....cant watch.....