@@alexheat0678 most saber companies sell a staff coupler to stick two of their sabers together into a staff It is pretty straightforward. On some you put it on in place of the pommel, in others you attach it to the pommel.
@lee rice Even if you can get a great value, and sell it if you don't like it, you can get a thing you won't like and just lose money if you're a bit picky about your tastes, so not worth for me
I would probably buy from ThePackStore because they have more features and lower prices than UltraSabers and Saberforge. They also have really nice looking hilts.
This is the best review I've ever seen on this. As a new member of the saber community I thank you! Only thing is I do believe that US uses threaded tips now.
DC, I've seen a few of your videos and I must say they're very impressive. I love that you give very in-depth, informative, and unbiased opinions on everything that's out there. You earned a subscriber here just because of how thorough you are. Keep it up, amigo.
Thank you a million Darth Cephalus! This is by far the most informative review of its kind. This has literally taken a heavy burden of stress off my shoulders. Now I just need to get the Obi-Ani down and we will be good to go! Thanks Again
Just got mine. If you want a nice saber for the money this is the one. No massive wait, bright led, and loudest speaker ive heard. Best of all the saber forge pommels fit on them. The blade I would get from vaders vault or saber forge as well as the pommel and blade plug. When changing the pommel the speaker is too loud but the foam that came with it fits between the pommel and the speaker and makes the speaker not move.
I think for the money kyberlight has the best option with sound, and the multi color, most sabers would cost $299-$400 for that option not to Mention a $250 package with all the customization options and lifetime warranty, a great starter blade
Thank you for the good review. I've been preparing to start my own collection (just got Ben kenobi's black series saber) and I wanted to know what to look for in good blades when I decide to craft my own. The hilts you have are beautiful too. Btw, that's an awesome sword collection behind you
My main concern with blades is weight. After that is length. After that is looks. And after that is durability. They are all pretty durable, but a good balance with the saber is harder to arrange.
I noticed all of these blades are for Tri-Cree LED sabers. Do all of the same rules apply for NeoPixel sabers?? ... such as the clear blade being better for the color red.
Please make a short tutorial video of making your own dual diffused blades. With the sandpaper and diffusion film and what not. I just want to make sure I don't mess mine up. I bought the Upstone kybers standard soresu lightsaber from Amazon and the light seems slightly dimmer towards the top of the blade.
I have seen them around, but their designs never grabbed my attention. I also saw that they use a 3W LED. I would review one if I had it, but at this point, I am unlikely to order.
I am a newbie to lightsabers but I see how saber engineering is now quite impressive. But I have a vexing problem and that is when the blades are unlit they still look like toys. You are all much smarter than me so I am sure you think about this. It seems to be me, correct me if I'm wrong, that the blades used on sabers are off the shelf tubing that's been modified. I was wondering why can't the lightsaber community come together and crowd source the funding to invent a new kind of tubing specifically for lightsabers? For instance, How about engineering a collapsible tube where the folds are micro folds, undetectable to the eye. There would have to be a way to make sure when the tube expands that it is lit either from inside the tube or the LED's could be embedded in the tube material itself so that the illusion would be complete. Maybe you could start a Kickstarter page to crowd fund the research and development by a materials scientist? So what do you think? If Elon Musk can land a rocket on a platform in the ocean then maybe this task wouldn't be so difficult. Your thoughts?
Personally, I think these kinds of questions, like who makes the best lightsabers, lightsaber blades, hilts, etc, are all pretty subjective. It's kind of like a car, what speaks to you. The main question should be: "what was their customer service like/your experience in dealing with the company?"
I completely agree. People still ask it though. I tried to answer it in these videos with exactly that car buying approach. th-cam.com/play/PLf2BA9eUktwsK6Um_Y-qegp2FtIuYFeV5.html
I'm working on theory of a string blade that uses very bright white, UV and if needed some coloured LEDS in a inner and outer core configuration. Now there are certain chemicals/compounds that will fluoresce under UV or 'Black Light', for example chlorophyll floureces red, quinine blue etc. Now my theory is, using the bright white and UV LED's alternately constructed into a string configuration and somehow surround that core with our facing coloured LED's. In theory the bright white will make the core of the blade near on white as we see in the films, the UV will cause the compound in the blade to fluoresce its given colour along with the coloured LED's which is surrounding and facing away from the core as such we shoułd get a inhanced coloured hue due to the flouresent coloured light being emitted by the chemical/compound in the blade and hopefully setting up constructive interference with the outracing coloured LED's ... What do we think? And before you say UV is harmful we can treat the outside of the blade with a UV filter which will only allow the visible light wavelengths exit the blade, including the flourecsed colour/light emitted by the compound in the blade ... Any electronic minded people out there that can think of how to design the LED core set up? I know lots about the EM spectrum, how fluorescence works and how to safely filter UV.
Mostly this is beyond me. I don't work with EL strings. The two pieces of input I can give are that royal blue triggers florescence as well and that there are non harmful versions of UV diodes.
3M makes glass bubbles, they are micro small enough of a sphere to be a powder. If they were inlaid into the interior of the blade the frosting would glow much like light reacts to a crystal ball.
If cost is not an option, go with the custom market. Get on Facebook, join a few lightsaber groups, and have a reputable builder like Jordan Moll or Shaseem make you a one off.
If money is TRULY not an issue, I'd suggest custom ordering a custom saber from GenesisCustomSabers.com made exactly how you want it to look by a saber artist, otherwise UltraSabers (diamond level light and sounds), and VadersVault are both great options.
He is not even in business anymore. When I wrote that comment more than a year ago, he was the go to guy for that. That was before the big mess. Shaseem is still going strong though.
Durable is anything heavy grade. Screw on tips like Saberforge and Kyberlight are a bit more so. Bright is anything dual diffused. Most of the time you need to do that yourself. For the most part, bright is not that much to do with the blade.
Hey man I’m looking to spend around 200$ on a Saber I don’t need it to have a sound board or anything. The main thing is need it to look cool and be durable as I’m going to be taking lightsaber sparring classes and learning Makashi (Form II). I would like it to be red if that matters.
At that price point, I would go with a basic saber from Ultrasabers or Saberforge. The Saberforge will be more ornate and lighter, but lighter and more ornate is not necessarily a plus. The Ultrasabers will be cheaper. Both will hold up. Don't get anything big and fancy. Mikashi is like fencing, it is about economy of motion. You want something small and one handed. An initiate level with a longer blade. You can customize it up with grips and the like after you get it. If you can, you might also want to add a tsuba guard from the Saber Legion to protect your hand. They run about 40
Durability on dueling blades is just shades of grey. Kyberlight and Saberforge have a bit better tips, but honestly, they will all work. Pick the one that is in your budget and that you like the looks of more.
One last question before I make any final decisions, im wondering what heavy blade would look best with red from Ultrasabers without sanding or doing anything to the blade it self. Also Im not completely sure how durable the mid grade blade is. From pictures it's difficult to tell brightness. Im planning on getting 2 of the Menace se with 32 inch blades and a coupler of course to combine them. Thanks again for taking the time.
Without sanding, you get what is called a light in a tube effect. The red is the core and then you will be able to see the clear tube around it. If you sand it, the light comes to the side. Heavy grade, the tube is thicker so the light in a tube effect is more pronounced. If you sand, it is less so.
Darth Cephalus We would be sanding the blade to put it somewhere between heavy grade and mid-grade? Edit: Oh! I watched another video of yours. So the sand paper diffuses the light again helping make it look more akin to a Ultraedge blade without as much color washing out. I guess my only question would be is this always better to do?
I didn’t have one when I filmed this, but it is much the same. trans white diffused. the point is that most blades for in hilt sabers are pretty much the same with some differences in processing.
curious Since you seem to be very knowledgeable about all things saber...do the (MHS) parts interchange from any of the saber shops out there? like Kyberlight, saberforge ,Ultrasaber, and the custom saber shop? be amazing if some actually were interchangeable . and are there any other suppliers that we should be looking at for parts ? being a "master MacGuyver Jedi "lol - I feel compelled to build my own but want to know what works best ..any recommendations on leds, boards etc for newbie builders be greatly appreciated . I have a 3d printer as well so i can print parts if necessary and files available. And THANK YOU BTW for all the time you take and knowledge you share its Very much appreciated !!!! Hey maybe you could make a vid about this??I'm sure it would be well received.
For part of that, I have a video om interchangeable parts th-cam.com/video/1pp8-h7JPqU/w-d-xo.html For the other part, electronics are available all over. Most DIY people get theirs from the custom saber shop, but Ultrasabers, saberforge, and a lot of other people sell their own boards and LEDS as well. I know a few people who get all theirs from facebook groups. They are all over, so it is just a matter of figuring out what you like and doing a quick search.
I would say a sanded heavy grade clear blade. I do not like the color wash out on the trans whites. But then I use mostly red. It is not so bad on green or blue.
The clear ones didn't show red on camera as well as the kyber and other blade. Turned orange about a foot into the blade. Maybe it was the overhead light messing with it? Unfortunate.
The clear does not distribute the light as evenly and a lot of that does not translate to camera. And yes, the over head light was a factor. The thing about the clear is that the flare at the bottom and fade to the top is actually preferred by some. Also the vibrancy of the color is more of a red red whereas the dual diffused or ultraedge can get a bit chalky. Like I said though, some of that does not translate to the camera.
Hmm, in my opinion this review misses one major thing. And that is a weight of a blade itself. Since the balance of a good lightsaber should be on its emitter (or just a bit higher) the weight of a blade should be equal to the hilt. Also heavy blades mean that you will require more strength for swinging your lightsaber. Another thing which has not been fully covered (but I ve seen several comments mentioning it) is the durability of a blade. If you are a dueling saberfighter, the simplicity your blade is your strong point. After several dueling sessions your neatly polished Ultrabers, Vader's Vault etc. blade will have scratches or indents. In addition any pointed tips are a weak point of any dueling blade since they can break off of your blade after several training sessions.
Great reviews, I am in the market for my first and have been watching a lot of your videos. I love the finish on the Kyberlight, Is that an ultra custom option that is not available on their site? Or something you did? It seems so far the Kyberlight value proposition is really good.
How do you create a white core in the middle of the blade with surrounding color around the white core in the movies? This effect is seen on camera, but when the blade is being looked at off camera it is a different story. All you see is the color of the blade, with no white core. You can see what I'm talking about at 6:27 in the video, with the blade on our left, his right hand. The blade in his right hand has the solid color effect that you would see off camera, near the top end of the blade. Then, when you look in his other hand, the red is surrounding the white core like in the movies. Also, on camera, if you take the camera up close to the blade the effect will wear off and it will be just a solid color, or if the room is exposed with too much light then the movie effect will not take place. My question is : Is it possible to create a saber with the pure movie look while looking at the saber OFF camera? Thanks!
The white core is the result of the light being too bright for camera. It is more or less only how it appears on film. As far as I know, the closest you can get to that effect in person is to use a white LED on an enhanced dayblade. That is a mildly colored tube that will be mostly a white blade with a tinge around the edge.
As to the blades, any heavy grade blade is really about the same in terms of durability. If you are going to swing like a maniac, you will want a threaded tip like the ones on a Kyberlight or a Saberforge blade. If not, any heavy grade blade will work. As for the Graflex, Vader's Vault, Ultrasabers, and I believe Saberforge all make one. All of the above should be sturdy, though I generally don't recommend doing anything serious with a graflex: too many bits that stick out.
I watched the video twice but couldn't find the answer to my question. Which blade can ultimately stop light diffusion? I'm looking to practice with my saber in the light of day without it losing the "white light".
When you say stop diffusion, do you mean that you want no light to pass through the blade? If that is the case, you could use an opaque tube. Lightsaber makers don't make them, but you can find them at a hardware store. Alternately, you could leave the saber off.
Hi. Can you do a video talking about which blade is the most durable? I'm thinking of getting a saberforge, but it'd be nice if you can talk about in your opinion which blade is the best. When it comes to durability and combat. Thank you
Most are good enough for dueling. If you want the absolute most durable, something with a threaded tip. Kyberlight and Saberforge both use threaded tips. I would stress again though that unless you are repeatedly baseball swinging against a tree, blades from just about anywhere will work. Just stay away from 7/8” Blades and stitch to1”.
Darth Cephalus Thanks for the info. I'll keep that in mind. Quick question. Are the saberforge day blades just as thick as their infinity blades? Thank you
If you want a pound for pound durability and that is all that matters, go with a kyberlight blade. They are pretty cheap and even have a warranty. Deep set screw tips as well. kyberlight.com/index.php/blades.html?acc=a1d0c6e83f027327d8461063f4ac58a6
Just any old 100 to 300 grit you find at the hardware store. The coarser the grit, the more rough the diffusion will be. Rough is not necessarily a bad thing for the record. For your first time out, I would go with about a 160 if you don't want to experiment first.
I can’t. Had many of them so long I don’t recall where they came from and the rack changes. Might be able to answer a question on a specific sword though.
Hello, I am in to swordsmanship and want a lightsaber because A. I love star wars. B. I want to do a sith cosplay and Halloween. I am 100% more concerned with the color vibrancy and filling up the whole blade. For a red and orange (temple guard) blade. I'm not sure where to get my hilt but is the hilt as important as the blade for color?
If the lighting and the color is that important to you, you should probobly look into a neopixel blade. The biggest issue with that, besides expense, is that will tie you in to Vader’s Vault or an artisan sabersmith, which means it could take as long as 6 months to get the saber unless you are shopping the second hand market.
If durability is your primary concern, go with an Ultrasabers grab bag or basic stunt hilt. The electronics are simple enough that even if something does break, you can fix it and the hilt is thick aluminum so if you bang it up a lot, you can just call it weathering. Also this is one of the cheapest buy ins to the hobby.
What are the actual dimensions for the heavy grade polycarbonate tube? IE: would a 1” outer diameter with a 0.75 inner diameter and thus 1/4” wall between OD & ID be considered a heavy grade tube?
Shades of grey really. If you need the absolute most durable thing, then what you should be asking is which company makes the saber and blade that I can most afford to beat the hell out of and destroy. The answer to that one is Ultrasabers. If you are not planning to destroy it, most saber makers make Sabers that hold up to a decent amount of use just fine.
At that price point, either The Pach Store or a seller called UPSTONE on Amazon for a Kybers saber if you need it to have sound. If you are looking for a beater that has no sound but takes a hit better, go with Ultrasabers.
I did that a bit. The review of the Hitoren looks a bit at the blade that came with it. By in large, it is just like any other. The main difference is the plug is a bit deeper on the tip, it came pre sanded, and it is 32” standard.
Mostly. Most sabers take 1" blade stock. There are a few that take 7/8", and then there are neopixel, but yes neopixel aside, as long as you have the right size, it is interchangeable.
If you are talking about the light scrolling up the blade, that is a neopixel install. it is a whole different animal. Not a good decision for first time installers.
Pretty much any Heavy grade blade will work for full contact, but if you want a clear answer, it is the Kyberlight standard blade on this page. Not the best diffused, but the most durable and has a warranty kyberlight.com/index.php/blades.html?acc=a1d0c6e83f027327d8461063f4ac58a6
Sorry for another question but if I was to get an ultra saber, in maybe a blue or green, you think the best blade option to select when buying it would be ultra edge. And if I was to be using it quite a bit should I get thick wall or would it not be worth it sacrificing color and just go with normal.
I personally hate Ultraedge. I would rather sand a regular than deal with the color bleaching. As to the thick wall, if you are using it for anything other than full contact sparring, the thin wall will hold up. If you are doing full contact sparring, go with the thick wall.
I feel like in an alternate universe you would be the jedi who helps students construct their lightsabers.
Probably
@@DarthCephalus have you made a darth mual one mate if so i need help constructing a double sided blade
@@alexheat0678 most saber companies sell a staff coupler to stick two of their sabers together into a staff It is pretty straightforward. On some you put it on in place of the pommel, in others you attach it to the pommel.
@@DarthCephalus thanks mate
Aww this guy would definitely be a sabersmith Jedi instructor, but wld def kick some major ass if class was rudely interrupted by the Empire
This guy is like Star Wars Bob Ross
I want to like this but i cant its at 69 and i dont want to ruin it so here 👍👍👍👍
@@tyrian666 you can like now. 👍
I come for light saber advice & get inspired to buy a new sword rack. Nice collection👌🏾
I was thinking the same thing 🤣😀
i feel like a watching a legit weapon reviw fr the year 3000
gerald dorrian why?star wars is based a LONG TIME AGO,in a galaxy far far away
@Cadeboy13 cool concept, cuz if it's from a long time ago, then we would be so technologically advanced by now
Katanas, lightsabers, Invader Zim shirt. Nice.
yet to buy my first saber but you're giving me so much useful info. thanks I feel I can buy with confidence when I'm ready.
@lee rice Even if you can get a great value, and sell it if you don't like it, you can get a thing you won't like and just lose money if you're a bit picky about your tastes, so not worth for me
@lee rice Yes in that case it's surely worth it, I was only talking about my own opinion ! I'm sure they'll like them !
Ceryz epop It’s worth noting that the cheapest possible saber is $69, so worst case scenario you only lose $5.
I would probably buy from ThePackStore because they have more features and lower prices than UltraSabers and Saberforge. They also have really nice looking hilts.
Best lightsaber tutorials on TH-cam. You, sir, are a gentleman. Thank you! You have more-than-earned a sub.
One minor update to your great review, you can buy rounded tips for your Kyberlight blades. They are $9.99 each and are of the shine through variety.
Love these comparison videos - thank you 🙏
Would have been nice to see the actual lighted up tips though, to see which has the best tip illumination.
I love watching/listening to your videos it like unintentional asmr or something
This is the best review I've ever seen on this. As a new member of the saber community I thank you!
Only thing is I do believe that US uses threaded tips now.
I’m just starting down the path, and enjoying all your content! Thank you!
DC, I've seen a few of your videos and I must say they're very impressive. I love that you give very in-depth, informative, and unbiased opinions on everything that's out there. You earned a subscriber here just because of how thorough you are. Keep it up, amigo.
This was an amazing comparison. REALLY appreciate it!
So helpful thanks mate. No one else explains this stuff
This guy looks pretty serious and knows what he's talking about. Then you see his shirt
His shirt is awesome! Invader Zim rocks!
personally, Squee > Zim :) I'm just glad he isn't wearing one of those 'Are you convinced I'm a huge Star Wars fan?' shirts
Excellent video!! Thank you for the display sir!
Good video. Clear speaking and audio. Very scholarly
Thank you a million Darth Cephalus! This is by far the most informative review of its kind. This has literally taken a heavy burden of stress off my shoulders. Now I just need to get the Obi-Ani down and we will be good to go! Thanks Again
Glad it helped, as for the obi ani, look for a full video on it soon. In the meantime, this may help. th-cam.com/video/dYQawq4zv0o/w-d-xo.html
It helped tremendously. This is exactly what I needed!
Agreed! Well done, and thank you.
Get ur tongue out his ass bra
Very informative. Thank you man I now know differences and can be informed on this gift I'm going to give!
Another great tutorial video. Keep up the good work, DC.
It's not a tutorial...
What a great video. I plan on watching a lot more. Keep up the great work buddy!!
I'm in love with my vader's vault blades
Love the No Dachi on your wall wrack
Just got mine. If you want a nice saber for the money this is the one. No massive wait, bright led, and loudest speaker ive heard. Best of all the saber forge pommels fit on them. The blade I would get from vaders vault or saber forge as well as the pommel and blade plug. When changing the pommel the speaker is too loud but the foam that came with it fits between the pommel and the speaker and makes the speaker not move.
Great video, good explanation and easy to listen to. Keep the videos going man.
I think for the money kyberlight has the best option with sound, and the multi color, most sabers would cost $299-$400 for that option not to
Mention a $250 package with all the customization options and lifetime warranty, a great starter blade
Right on bro love the invader zim tee!
Wow man, I've been educated properly before I spend a ridiculous amount of money on a fake lightsaber :) much appreciated.
"fake lightsaber" just let those words sink in for a minute.
Well, it's not like you can cut your neighbour in half with it.
While these are informative, PLEASE SHOW ENTIRE BLADE! Thx, I want to see how well the tips BLEND in with that blade.
Thank you for the good review. I've been preparing to start my own collection (just got Ben kenobi's black series saber) and I wanted to know what to look for in good blades when I decide to craft my own. The hilts you have are beautiful too. Btw, that's an awesome sword collection behind you
My main concern with blades is weight. After that is length. After that is looks. And after that is durability. They are all pretty durable, but a good balance with the saber is harder to arrange.
I would love to see a video where the white balance & exposure was right so we could actually see what you are seeing.
I noticed all of these blades are for Tri-Cree LED sabers. Do all of the same rules apply for NeoPixel sabers?? ... such as the clear blade being better for the color red.
yes, but clear neopixel opens another bag of worms.
That was an awesome tutorial !
Thoose saberhilts looks amazing :D !
Kyberlight.com. Amazing customization options!
I will say I like saberforge better because of the way they duel better and last longer. Better lighting too.
Nice nodachi in the background btw
Thank you ,Dear Sir. A very interesting and sagacious study of sabre sword and blade.
Sharing and subbing, henceforth.
Please make a short tutorial video of making your own dual diffused blades. With the sandpaper and diffusion film and what not. I just want to make sure I don't mess mine up. I bought the Upstone kybers standard soresu lightsaber from Amazon and the light seems slightly dimmer towards the top of the blade.
Very good video. Made well.
hey could you make a tutorial video of sanding the ultrasabers blades step by step on what to do that would be awesome!
Idc for dueling but of all the lightsabers I own my korbanth profiepixel is the nicest by far.
Darry Cephalus? From the forum! Hey man!!
Yep. This is where all those links I post go to. You have found the source.
Loved this video, very educational :)
great vid...thank you.....would it help to turn the room lights off?
Wow super helpful! thank you, saved me time and $$$
Touching the blade totally breaks the illusion
in my mind, better than a sad video of a guy holding them with clamps and acting worried that he'd "burn himself"
Sweet sword collection in the background! Would love your thoughts on Outer Rim Sabers, I love them but you are the expert lol
I have seen them around, but their designs never grabbed my attention. I also saw that they use a 3W LED. I would review one if I had it, but at this point, I am unlikely to order.
I am a newbie to lightsabers but I see how saber engineering is now quite impressive. But I have a vexing problem and that is when the blades are unlit they still look like toys. You are all much smarter than me so I am sure you think about this. It seems to be me, correct me if I'm wrong, that the blades used on sabers are off the shelf tubing that's been modified. I was wondering why can't the lightsaber community come together and crowd source the funding to invent a new kind of tubing specifically for lightsabers? For instance, How about engineering a collapsible tube where the folds are micro folds, undetectable to the eye. There would have to be a way to make sure when the tube expands that it is lit either from inside the tube or the LED's could be embedded in the tube material itself so that the illusion would be complete. Maybe you could start a Kickstarter page to crowd fund the research and development by a materials scientist? So what do you think? If Elon Musk can land a rocket on a platform in the ocean then maybe this task wouldn't be so difficult. Your thoughts?
Personally, I think these kinds of questions, like who makes the best lightsabers, lightsaber blades, hilts, etc, are all pretty subjective. It's kind of like a car, what speaks to you. The main question should be: "what was their customer service like/your experience in dealing with the company?"
I completely agree. People still ask it though. I tried to answer it in these videos with exactly that car buying approach. th-cam.com/play/PLf2BA9eUktwsK6Um_Y-qegp2FtIuYFeV5.html
Awesome video
I'm working on theory of a string blade that uses very bright white, UV and if needed some coloured LEDS in a inner and outer core configuration. Now there are certain chemicals/compounds that will fluoresce under UV or 'Black Light', for example chlorophyll floureces red, quinine blue etc. Now my theory is, using the bright white and UV LED's alternately constructed into a string configuration and somehow surround that core with our facing coloured LED's. In theory the bright white will make the core of the blade near on white as we see in the films, the UV will cause the compound in the blade to fluoresce its given colour along with the coloured LED's which is surrounding and facing away from the core as such we shoułd get a inhanced coloured hue due to the flouresent coloured light being emitted by the chemical/compound in the blade and hopefully setting up constructive interference with the outracing coloured LED's ... What do we think? And before you say UV is harmful we can treat the outside of the blade with a UV filter which will only allow the visible light wavelengths exit the blade, including the flourecsed colour/light emitted by the compound in the blade ... Any electronic minded people out there that can think of how to design the LED core set up? I know lots about the EM spectrum, how fluorescence works and how to safely filter UV.
Mostly this is beyond me. I don't work with EL strings. The two pieces of input I can give are that royal blue triggers florescence as well and that there are non harmful versions of UV diodes.
3M makes glass bubbles, they are micro small enough of a sphere to be a powder. If they were inlaid into the interior of the blade the frosting would glow much like light reacts to a crystal ball.
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/bubbles.php?gclid=CjwKCAiAr_TQBRB5EiwAC_QCq-oBK7WrJzhmM-zg8QZ3AUowZ1KTnolv7Ks6gHAd9-QYkoI2lkXXYxoC9AAQAvD_BwE
I was thinking coat the inside of the Blades' hollow with adhesive and pour these into the tube while glue is wet. I wonder how it would glow?
Watching this at 2x speed works just as well for what i came for.
I'm looking for the most realistic saber (quality,sound,brightness, etc). If budget is not an issue, what saber would you recommend?
If cost is not an option, go with the custom market. Get on Facebook, join a few lightsaber groups, and have a reputable builder like Jordan Moll or Shaseem make you a one off.
Ok thank you! I'll look into it
If money is TRULY not an issue, I'd suggest custom ordering a custom saber from GenesisCustomSabers.com made exactly how you want it to look by a saber artist, otherwise UltraSabers (diamond level light and sounds), and VadersVault are both great options.
@@DarthCephalus Jordan Moll is a thief & scammer.
He is not even in business anymore. When I wrote that comment more than a year ago, he was the go to guy for that. That was before the big mess. Shaseem is still going strong though.
Woah i want to see what a high power green or uv laser looks like in one of those green blades lol
UV looks great, green is just green, the florescence does nothing to it.
Which would be the ideal choice for heavy sparring?
kyberlight.com/index.php/blades/kyberlight-custom-blade.html?acc=a1d0c6e83f027327d8461063f4ac58a6
So which is the most durable bright blade
Durable is anything heavy grade. Screw on tips like Saberforge and Kyberlight are a bit more so. Bright is anything dual diffused. Most of the time you need to do that yourself. For the most part, bright is not that much to do with the blade.
Hey man I’m looking to spend around 200$ on a Saber I don’t need it to have a sound board or anything. The main thing is need it to look cool and be durable as I’m going to be taking lightsaber sparring classes and learning Makashi (Form II). I would like it to be red if that matters.
At that price point, I would go with a basic saber from Ultrasabers or Saberforge. The Saberforge will be more ornate and lighter, but lighter and more ornate is not necessarily a plus. The Ultrasabers will be cheaper. Both will hold up. Don't get anything big and fancy. Mikashi is like fencing, it is about economy of motion. You want something small and one handed. An initiate level with a longer blade. You can customize it up with grips and the like after you get it. If you can, you might also want to add a tsuba guard from the Saber Legion to protect your hand. They run about 40
Cool toys
Who would you say makes the most durable blade that will last the longest?
Kyberlight or Saberforge, but the only real difference between them and any other heavy grade blade is the threaded tip.
who makes the best dueling blade ?
Durability on dueling blades is just shades of grey. Kyberlight and Saberforge have a bit better tips, but honestly, they will all work. Pick the one that is in your budget and that you like the looks of more.
Awesome vid
One last question before I make any final decisions, im wondering what heavy blade would look best with red from Ultrasabers without sanding or doing anything to the blade it self. Also Im not completely sure how durable the mid grade blade is. From pictures it's difficult to tell brightness. Im planning on getting 2 of the Menace se with 32 inch blades and a coupler of course to combine them. Thanks again for taking the time.
Without sanding, you get what is called a light in a tube effect. The red is the core and then you will be able to see the clear tube around it. If you sand it, the light comes to the side. Heavy grade, the tube is thicker so the light in a tube effect is more pronounced. If you sand, it is less so.
Darth Cephalus We would be sanding the blade to put it somewhere between heavy grade and mid-grade?
Edit: Oh! I watched another video of yours. So the sand paper diffuses the light again helping make it look more akin to a Ultraedge blade without as much color washing out. I guess my only question would be is this always better to do?
i notice that you did not enclude the sabercraft blades in this demo
I didn’t have one when I filmed this, but it is much the same. trans white diffused. the point is that most blades for in hilt sabers are pretty much the same with some differences in processing.
curious Since you seem to be very knowledgeable about all things saber...do the (MHS) parts interchange from any of the saber shops out there? like Kyberlight, saberforge ,Ultrasaber, and the custom saber shop? be amazing if some actually were interchangeable . and are there any other suppliers that we should be looking at for parts ? being a "master MacGuyver Jedi "lol - I feel compelled to build my own but want to know what works best ..any recommendations on leds, boards etc for newbie builders be greatly appreciated . I have a 3d printer as well so i can print parts if necessary and files available. And THANK YOU BTW for all the time you take and knowledge you share its Very much appreciated !!!! Hey maybe you could make a vid about this??I'm sure it would be well received.
For part of that, I have a video om interchangeable parts th-cam.com/video/1pp8-h7JPqU/w-d-xo.html
For the other part, electronics are available all over. Most DIY people get theirs from the custom saber shop, but Ultrasabers, saberforge, and a lot of other people sell their own boards and LEDS as well. I know a few people who get all theirs from facebook groups. They are all over, so it is just a matter of figuring out what you like and doing a quick search.
Thanks for the review which one is the best for sabre fighting with good illumination
I would say a sanded heavy grade clear blade. I do not like the color wash out on the trans whites. But then I use mostly red. It is not so bad on green or blue.
Darth Cephalus thanks
Pretty good video :)
The clear ones didn't show red on camera as well as the kyber and other blade. Turned orange about a foot into the blade. Maybe it was the overhead light messing with it? Unfortunate.
The clear does not distribute the light as evenly and a lot of that does not translate to camera. And yes, the over head light was a factor. The thing about the clear is that the flare at the bottom and fade to the top is actually preferred by some. Also the vibrancy of the color is more of a red red whereas the dual diffused or ultraedge can get a bit chalky. Like I said though, some of that does not translate to the camera.
Hmm, in my opinion this review misses one major thing. And that is a weight of a blade itself. Since the balance of a good lightsaber should be on its emitter (or just a bit higher) the weight of a blade should be equal to the hilt. Also heavy blades mean that you will require more strength for swinging your lightsaber.
Another thing which has not been fully covered (but I ve seen several comments mentioning it) is the durability of a blade. If you are a dueling saberfighter, the simplicity your blade is your strong point. After several dueling sessions your neatly polished Ultrabers, Vader's Vault etc. blade will have scratches or indents. In addition any pointed tips are a weak point of any dueling blade since they can break off of your blade after several training sessions.
Great reviews, I am in the market for my first and have been watching a lot of your videos. I love the finish on the Kyberlight, Is that an ultra custom option that is not available on their site? Or something you did? It seems so far the Kyberlight value proposition is really good.
How do you create a white core in the middle of the blade with surrounding color around the white core in the movies? This effect is seen on camera, but when the blade is being looked at off camera it is a different story. All you see is the color of the blade, with no white core. You can see what I'm talking about at 6:27 in the video, with the blade on our left, his right hand. The blade in his right hand has the solid color effect that you would see off camera, near the top end of the blade. Then, when you look in his other hand, the red is surrounding the white core like in the movies. Also, on camera, if you take the camera up close to the blade the effect will wear off and it will be just a solid color, or if the room is exposed with too much light then the movie effect will not take place. My question is : Is it possible to create a saber with the pure movie look while looking at the saber OFF camera? Thanks!
The white core is the result of the light being too bright for camera. It is more or less only how it appears on film. As far as I know, the closest you can get to that effect in person is to use a white LED on an enhanced dayblade. That is a mildly colored tube that will be mostly a white blade with a tinge around the edge.
Thanks for the knowledgeable reply. You're awesome man. You know a lot about sabers. Keep doing what you are doing. Peace.
So if I want a saber that can handle dueling (not crazy hard but hard enough to look cool), what is the best route?
Really any of them can handle that. Thin walled blade will be sufficient.
What about endurance when dueling? I don't fancy destroying one. Also where is recommended to get a tough good replica of Anakins graflex ?
As to the blades, any heavy grade blade is really about the same in terms of durability. If you are going to swing like a maniac, you will want a threaded tip like the ones on a Kyberlight or a Saberforge blade. If not, any heavy grade blade will work. As for the Graflex, Vader's Vault, Ultrasabers, and I believe Saberforge all make one. All of the above should be sturdy, though I generally don't recommend doing anything serious with a graflex: too many bits that stick out.
I watched the video twice but couldn't find the answer to my question. Which blade can ultimately stop light diffusion? I'm looking to practice with my saber in the light of day without it losing the "white light".
When you say stop diffusion, do you mean that you want no light to pass through the blade? If that is the case, you could use an opaque tube. Lightsaber makers don't make them, but you can find them at a hardware store. Alternately, you could leave the saber off.
Trans white blades are the bestfor kybers basic series
Hi. Can you do a video talking about which blade is the most durable? I'm thinking of getting a saberforge, but it'd be nice if you can talk about in your opinion which blade is the best. When it comes to durability and combat. Thank you
Most are good enough for dueling. If you want the absolute most durable, something with a threaded tip. Kyberlight and Saberforge both use threaded tips. I would stress again though that unless you are repeatedly baseball swinging against a tree, blades from just about anywhere will work. Just stay away from 7/8” Blades and stitch to1”.
Darth Cephalus Thanks for the info. I'll keep that in mind. Quick question. Are the saberforge day blades just as thick as their infinity blades?
Thank you
Yes.
Which blade (and lightsaber handle/hilt) takes the hardest beating/is the strongest/most durable?
(Sorry for my bad English, i am German)
Ultrasabers stunt saber with some padding on the battery pack and Kyberlight blade with a spot of glow on the threads on the tip.
@@DarthCephalus thanks a lot
That light switch is really screwing with my CDO.
Tre WTF is CDO? u mean OCD?
Wesley Plumley CDO is the same as OCD, but in alphabetical order. The way it should be.
@@wesleyplumley8563that's the joke, buddy.
Video was super useful. I'm looking to get into it . What blade can handle the most damage without breaking ?
If you want a pound for pound durability and that is all that matters, go with a kyberlight blade. They are pretty cheap and even have a warranty. Deep set screw tips as well.
kyberlight.com/index.php/blades.html?acc=a1d0c6e83f027327d8461063f4ac58a6
Ok thanks a lot I'll probably end up sanding, any particular sand paper that works best?
Just any old 100 to 300 grit you find at the hardware store. The coarser the grit, the more rough the diffusion will be. Rough is not necessarily a bad thing for the record. For your first time out, I would go with about a 160 if you don't want to experiment first.
Can you list me the rack and the individual swords you have on the wall behind you?
I can’t. Had many of them so long I don’t recall where they came from and the rack changes. Might be able to answer a question on a specific sword though.
Are there any 7/8 blades that are duel worthy and still hold a good color. Thick walled 7/8 blades do exist but I don't know about their quality.
They should be fine for dueling. Even the thin walled ones are OK for moderate contact.
Hello, I am in to swordsmanship and want a lightsaber because
A. I love star wars.
B. I want to do a sith cosplay and Halloween.
I am 100% more concerned with the color vibrancy and filling up the whole blade.
For a red and orange (temple guard) blade.
I'm not sure where to get my hilt but is the hilt as important as the blade for color?
If the lighting and the color is that important to you, you should probobly look into a neopixel blade. The biggest issue with that, besides expense, is that will tie you in to Vader’s Vault or an artisan sabersmith, which means it could take as long as 6 months to get the saber unless you are shopping the second hand market.
Looking to get a new lightsaber. What lightsaber in you opinion has the most durable blade and handle?
If durability is your primary concern, go with an Ultrasabers grab bag or basic stunt hilt. The electronics are simple enough that even if something does break, you can fix it and the hilt is thick aluminum so if you bang it up a lot, you can just call it weathering. Also this is one of the cheapest buy ins to the hobby.
Sorry if you already answered this question, but I just bought a Kyberlight Saber. Can I use an Ultrasaber blade on it for better color display?
Yes. The blades are all 1" blade stock. You can swap them between most brands.
What are the actual dimensions for the heavy grade polycarbonate tube?
IE: would a 1” outer diameter with a 0.75 inner diameter and thus 1/4” wall between OD & ID be considered a heavy grade tube?
No. A 1” OD mid grade blade has a 7/8” ID. A 1” OD heavy grade blade has a 3”4 ID. Less with blade film.
Yep... 👍🏼
OD 1”/ ID 3/4” which is 0.75
What company makes the most strong and durable blades and hilts.
Shades of grey really. If you need the absolute most durable thing, then what you should be asking is which company makes the saber and blade that I can most afford to beat the hell out of and destroy. The answer to that one is Ultrasabers. If you are not planning to destroy it, most saber makers make Sabers that hold up to a decent amount of use just fine.
What would be the best looking lightsaber blade with red, green, blue with the best sound and can duel and not brake easily?
Like what company would be the best, and what options would be the best?
Too much of that is a matter of preference. It has a lot to do with budget, features, and which designs speak to you.
I have heard that some companies use a thin foam to diffuse blades, how is that compared to cellophane in the terms of effective diffusion?
whiter. Mostly they use that with neopixel blades.
I was curios about buying a dual sided lightsaber for around 300 were should I look
At that price point, either The Pach Store or a seller called UPSTONE on Amazon for a Kybers saber if you need it to have sound. If you are looking for a beater that has no sound but takes a hit better, go with Ultrasabers.
Hi great review. Can you do a review on Thepachstore blades from WonderForce if you get a chance? If not thank you anyways👍☺
The regulars or the green ones?
Darth Cephalus The regular ones for example heavy grade, mid grade,etc. Thank you, and keep up the great content 👌
I did that a bit. The review of the Hitoren looks a bit at the blade that came with it. By in large, it is just like any other. The main difference is the plug is a bit deeper on the tip, it came pre sanded, and it is 32” standard.
Darth Cephalus Ok thanks man
does your glow stick show up well? still waiting for a real lightsaber where the blade is actually LIGHT and not a plastic tube.
Then buy a flashlight
So all these blades and hilts from the different companies are interchangeable?
Mostly. Most sabers take 1" blade stock. There are a few that take 7/8", and then there are neopixel, but yes neopixel aside, as long as you have the right size, it is interchangeable.
I wanna do the electronics myself... how do I get the light to shoot up the blade??
If you are talking about the light scrolling up the blade, that is a neopixel install. it is a whole different animal. Not a good decision for first time installers.
You got my sub buddy
Which blade is the most durable comparing all of these brand
Pretty much any Heavy grade blade will work for full contact, but if you want a clear answer, it is the Kyberlight standard blade on this page. Not the best diffused, but the most durable and has a warranty kyberlight.com/index.php/blades.html?acc=a1d0c6e83f027327d8461063f4ac58a6
Are those kyperlight photon blades just as good as the vaders vault ones?
They are a different shade of green. You can see a side by side here th-cam.com/video/KTpIriPhTdc/w-d-xo.html
could i buy a hilt from saberforge but buy a blade from somewhere else?
yes
Darth Cephalus thanks I’m going to buy one from Saberforge and get a blade from somewhere in the future ;)
Sorry for another question but if I was to get an ultra saber, in maybe a blue or green, you think the best blade option to select when buying it would be ultra edge. And if I was to be using it quite a bit should I get thick wall or would it not be worth it sacrificing color and just go with normal.
I personally hate Ultraedge. I would rather sand a regular than deal with the color bleaching. As to the thick wall, if you are using it for anything other than full contact sparring, the thin wall will hold up. If you are doing full contact sparring, go with the thick wall.