It worked thanks! 200x Hybrid. One tip to add...If you drive in 2nd it helps a lot to keep the assist from activating. You can get up to speed then shift to drive to go through the drive cycle when speed is up to 45 or 50ish.
My 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid had the original battery replaced by Honda dealer (free) in 2013 and 6 years later the same P1433 popped up. What I do is, after clearing the CEL and codes, leave the scanner tool plugged in showing the incomplete monitors, which the scan tool will refresh as they get cleared as I drive. The evap is always the last to clear and requires you get up to 55-60 MPH and hold it for a few minutes (not exactly sure the exact speed or time required) and then slow down. I can watch when the last monitor clears and then I head right to the smog check shop. Note that it really helps to have a route picked out that has no significant uphills. Going up steep hills are what triggers the IMA light to come on on my car as the ASST cranks up and stresses the crap out of the IMA battery.
My civic is 2004 hybrid manual 5 speed. i get the p0134, p1600. I replaced the battery, did not get IMA for awhile. I got an evap sensor code. Pulled that, cleansed it. lost that code. i got O2 sensor codes, replaced the two upper o2, have not gotten to the lower o2, because I can't a cheap replacement. I have a nice Xtool obd2 reader/programmer, which clears codes. it works, but the code comes back. I think the O2 is the primary problem for the IMA engine code. Reason is because the car actually reads 2 cylinders per upper o2 sensors, then the last reads to the after cat code to get a final emissions. Reason this is because the car engine ECM/IMA will turn off 2 cylinders during drive, and the two upper o2 sensors will get their emissions output variations which will get compared to the final results which tell the ECU you engine output to recalculate for gas pedal input which then turn's on all 4 cylinders, and Boost, or not given the engine/car speed. I think when the last o2 is bad, it give incorrect math o2 measurements confusing the car ECU to think the engine is not running right, then telling the IMA to boost to make up, then emissions variations get into a flux level which does not match the ECM registered programming causing a fault code to display. I figured this from talking to Honda and Honda telling me that IMA issues are usually O2 related with faulty batteries. Batteries usually being the prime suspect because a faulted battery link would give lesser output on the IMA which the ECM would be looking for the HP/car speed uplift variation which is not present because would should be in the OEM scope variations, the lacking o2 reading are actually faulting a math emission signal which tells the ECM to vary again either VTEC or the Ignition timing to get the system onto a air fuel track map match ... but with the faulty o2 sensors, the engine and ECM are recalculating, and IMA is reassessing the power output to get the car to run the HP output the driver is requesting. I can not confirm this, because I have not completed the change of that last O2 sensor. Once I do that I will see what the performance is then, do a full IMA battery rebuild since I have an extra battery to disassemble and pull the core rods to assesse and recharge. Then do a cleaning to make sure the terminals are all free of dust, corrison, and then put anti corrison grease well on the terminals. This should fix the problems. If not then you might have either bad relays or modules which does happen. I have had bad fuel ignition relays or distrubutors go bad in my older integra's. usually very rare and those cars were in moist conditions which is a very serious problem. I have seen shops here spending more time lately on diagnosising situations which they ended up finding here corroded electrical terminals or faulted Vaccum hoses which leaked. Check for yourself. These Civic's are really great cars, great milage, very quiet, and I just which the seats, and the mirrors were better, like a slight bend in the mirrors to help eliminate blind spots, and a larger center review mirror that has a bend to catch the blind spots. It probably be nice if I could get the Push Button Ignition that does not require insertion of the key into a hole, just put the key into a cup and push squence code and start. That would be nice. Plus a nice double din Stereo/ CD/mp3/bluetooth with RECORDing front and rear incident camera's, that would be Freaking Awesome. I am tring to integrate that, but I need a nice garage to pull the car apart. I have some other glitches like window don't move. Leakage in truck which pisses me off to NO END.. I like to upgrade the stereo to BOSE and sound deaden the doors, floor and fire wall so it is all quiet and cool, and upgrade the interior air filter with UV anti bacterial/germicidal defense system to keep the interior of the car clean. I hope my information helps. take care of the car and get the suspension upgrades to tighten up the car. I am not a fan of the tiny wheels, I like the 15 of the EX models, plus with a tightened suspension and little lower, this little car will not skip a corner, but make your passengers hug each other~!!
arda turan thank you so much for watching my video. Just remember it takes a bit of patience, especially when you get people honking and giving you funny looks because your driving so slow. Just put your hazards on turn the radio up and go for a slow cruise. Once all the sensors are reset get your emissions don’t then back to driving like normal. Unfortunately my civic is out of commission, my son ran a red light and got T-boned. Good like, let me know how it goes.
I got a question did you leave that standard in the whole time that you're driving all the way up until you got to the to the smog check place and did you change it out right when you got there or what ?
I own a 2006 insight. Try this for a force charge ur battery. Park in neutral e brake on hold rpm at 3 500 until charge bars appear hold steady until fully charged
Thanks for the video. Question: do I need to reset the MIL before the slow driving? I just hit the highway to cycle my 03 civic hybrid and prior to that I reset the codes. During the drive it tells you to hit 50-60 mph and my MIL light came back on. Some of my readiness codes came back, but still no evap, heated catalyst, or secondary air system. Going to try your method to see if I can get the computer to read all of that missing data again just wanted to know if I need to reset again. Btw, didn’t notice my issue until after putting in wrong gas; made the car lean but have since been filling up with the right stuff to “purge” it out.
You reset the CEL prior to driving.... I've done this early in the morning years back on mine... was able to put 20 miles on it and passed it. as soon as I left the light came back on.
My 2012 honda has IMA pop up and an wondering from your you tube video if the battery life is coming to the end .I am worried of where to source it and affordability in kenya 🇰🇪
Instead of driving super slow you can pull the back seat and shut off the IMA circuit breaker. Now you can drive the car with just the gas motor. Before doing this make sure your 12v battery is charged real good.
@@gamithadithya4166 You are correct. This is why I said make sure it's charged good. What I understand in the 2nd gen is the 3 phase electric motor send high voltage to the battery. It then is connected to another device right next to the circuit breaker to step it down to near the proper 12-14vdc which charges the battery. In turn that runs the accessories. So you could only drive for short distances. Sorry for any misunderstanding.
@@thomsonkev You're right about this... Bought an 03 Civic Hybrid with a shot hybrid battery and thought I could give it a quick jump to drive it up on my trailer... nope. Dies the moment I disconnect the jump leads. If the IMA system is nonfunctional, the 12v battery is incapable of charging.
Hey great video! I have this exact car. It won’t stay cranked as soon as we remove jumper cables it’s dies. There’s no alternator I hear so would you know what this might be and have you encountered this?
Dawn Pugh, thank you for watching my video. Sorry to hear you are having car problems. I’m definitely no expert on theses cars but I do know that the 12v battery controls the hybrid brains, it might be an issue with the 12v battery or bad connection to the battery. Tomorrow I can test it out on my car, I’ll start it then disconnect the 12v battery and see if the car dies. I’ll let you know.
Sooooo very interesting, I disconnected my battery and the car stayed running. Here’s where it gets interesting, with the battery disconnected and running for 5 to 10 minutes the car did die. It did this twice to me. The second time I noticed that the hybrid battery charge indicator (the green bars) were completely empty so the third time I started the car and charged the hybrid battery. With full bars on the hybrid indicator, the car has been running for 20+ min without dying. I wonder if it could be your hybrid battery. Is the hybrid charge indicator completely empty? If so start the car and run it at about 3000rpm until you get full bars on the indicator and then see if it dies. Hope this helps
Shane Weston yes the bars where low and that light is on. I’ve watched a few videos today that said also of that lights on that’s what it is. We are talking big money for those from what I can tell. In am going to try this first thing tomorrow thanks so much
Ive been looking into how to bypass the hybrid battery. Im thinking about purchasing one for cheap that is in prestine condition besides that the hybrid battery needs replaced. They can cost anywhere from $1,200-$3k! Which is more than the car itself is worth! Making these cars seemingly not worth the investment. Which depends because you'd have to own it for another 5yrs just to break even by saving money on gas. Honestly it wouldnt be a smart move on my part. As id be better off getting a newer car for the amount id have to put in it. However I just saw an interesting video where you can bypass the hybrid system entirely. Essentially just makimg it a regular non hybrid system relying soley upon the combustion engine itself. Apparently there is a breaker switch behind the rear seats. This is where the guy turned the switch to the off position. Where he disabled the hybrid system entirely. He said that he uses marine batteries, instead of a regular car battery. As Marine batteries wont damage as easily as a car battery from being drained on a constant. The guy claimed that he had Been driving it for 70k with no major problems. Besides having to get a jump every now and then. Which can be a pain in the ass, especially this day and age. Its hard to get a random stranger to give you a jump. The man that made the video had a portable battery charger that he took with him evwrywhere. So in hindsight you can save time and money by disabling the hybrid system entirely. Then sustain it by having to jump the battery whenever it doesnt have the amps to crank the car. From the way this guy was speaking, he wasnt having any major issues with the overall functioning and efficiency of the vehicle. It was getting better gas mileage since the hybrid system was no longer putting an unnecessary load on the engine. Plus he was only having to give it a jump every now and then. Mainly under heavy city driving. As he had no issues whatsoever driving it on the highway as it always kept the charge whenever he would go to start it again. He claimed he had been driving it like this for over 70k like i previously stated. So my conclusion is that its a quick fix or bandaid to fix the problem of having to replace the expensive hybrid system. Im no expert on these electric cars and being that this is a hybrid. You could and should be able to drive it without any major issues affecting the engine by completely bypassing the hybrid system. These are the first generation of hybrid cars from my recollection. So its no surprise that they didnt last til about 6-10yrs depending on how many miles it has. Overall if i had one id indeed bypass it to buy me enough time to save up for another car. Possibly trade it in to lease a brand new vehicle. It'd really be hard to sell these cars no matter the condition it is in for the simple fact that replacing the batteries will cost more than the car is worth. In my situation im only considering purchasing it if I can get it for less than $1,200. The regular civics in the condition as good as the one im looking at are still going for $2,500-$3,500. The car should still be as reliable as its conterpart. Bypassing the hybrid system should in essence be the same exact car albeit a bit heavier due to having the batteries. Ive barely began to research this particular model civic. So i domt actually know if it has the same engine as the regular civic? I can sacrifice a some annoyances by having to jump the battery every now and then. If he had been driving it for over 70k than i could potentially get atleast 2-5yrs out of it easily. Only time will tell as it is the case with anything in life. This video however was very informative amd may infact come in handy if i purchase this car as im actually considering it because the price is almost too good to be true. If its only something as simple as bypassing the hybrid system than i can live with the rest.
Did you kick the scanner in the whole time when you're driving I need to know because I had to say a problem with my 05 if you get this message can you reply back to me thank you I'm going to go try it out see what happens but I just want to know if the scanner if you keep the scanner in the whole time while you're driving in until probably get to the to jiffy little before we get a smogged ?
I left it in, so that I could check to see when the errors codes cleared then removed it when I got to jiffy lube. Thanks for watching, hope this helps.
Marco Rivas I’m not 100% positive on what actually resets the egr. I maxed out at 60mph on my drive. It might be the speed or distance traveled or a combination of both speed and distance.
it depends on the health of the battery. Obviously its not in great shape if the IMA light is coming on. With that said mine has stayed off for as long as a couple days and as short as minutes. Its defiantly not a permanent fix, it will only get you passed emissions test.
createxperience yes, the light comes back on as soon as you begin to accelerate into the assistant. This is only a temporary fix so that you can pass emissions test. For me It wasn't/isn't worth putting the time and money into a new battery.
I have a 2005 honda hybrid with a manual transmission. The honda dealership had reset the battery and told me that if it comes on again I would need a new battery. It did came on but Im wondering is it due to me not switching gears when the indicator light tell me to
My civic ima light come and red light for the bettery come on too no charging how can someone help my civic 2012 Honda civic hybrid this is my number please if can help 08036456762 my WhatsApp iam Nigerian thanks
Hola saludos Tengo un honda Civic híbrido se le prendió la luz IMA Mi pregunta es si no logro cambiar la batería híbrida lo puedo seguir usando sin que dañe otro parte del auto y como hago para apagar esa luz gracias saludos desde panama
You can rebalance the cells in these batteries without taking the battery out of the car or anything -- just buy a $200 grid charger. Charge it whenever the IMA light starts to trip again and it will rebalance the cells, and the cells will normally stay in balance for weeks or months at a time. It's possible to nurse along old batteries for hundreds of thousands of miles though regular rebalancing with just a grid charger. th-cam.com/video/jb5FOSWbtOE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=k2pflDaq542i-1dg
It worked thanks! 200x Hybrid. One tip to add...If you drive in 2nd it helps a lot to keep the assist from activating. You can get up to speed then shift to drive to go through the drive cycle when speed is up to 45 or 50ish.
My 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid had the original battery replaced by Honda dealer (free) in 2013 and 6 years later the same P1433 popped up. What I do is, after clearing the CEL and codes, leave the scanner tool plugged in showing the incomplete monitors, which the scan tool will refresh as they get cleared as I drive. The evap is always the last to clear and requires you get up to 55-60 MPH and hold it for a few minutes (not exactly sure the exact speed or time required) and then slow down. I can watch when the last monitor clears and then I head right to the smog check shop. Note that it really helps to have a route picked out that has no significant uphills. Going up steep hills are what triggers the IMA light to come on on my car as the ASST cranks up and stresses the crap out of the IMA battery.
My civic is 2004 hybrid manual 5 speed. i get the p0134, p1600. I replaced the battery, did not get IMA for awhile. I got an evap sensor code. Pulled that, cleansed it. lost that code. i got O2 sensor codes, replaced the two upper o2, have not gotten to the lower o2, because I can't a cheap replacement. I have a nice Xtool obd2 reader/programmer, which clears codes. it works, but the code comes back. I think the O2 is the primary problem for the IMA engine code. Reason is because the car actually reads 2 cylinders per upper o2 sensors, then the last reads to the after cat code to get a final emissions. Reason this is because the car engine ECM/IMA will turn off 2 cylinders during drive, and the two upper o2 sensors will get their emissions output variations which will get compared to the final results which tell the ECU you engine output to recalculate for gas pedal input which then turn's on all 4 cylinders, and Boost, or not given the engine/car speed. I think when the last o2 is bad, it give incorrect math o2 measurements confusing the car ECU to think the engine is not running right, then telling the IMA to boost to make up, then emissions variations get into a flux level which does not match the ECM registered programming causing a fault code to display.
I figured this from talking to Honda and Honda telling me that IMA issues are usually O2 related with faulty batteries. Batteries usually being the prime suspect because a faulted battery link would give lesser output on the IMA which the ECM would be looking for the HP/car speed uplift variation which is not present because would should be in the OEM scope variations, the lacking o2 reading are actually faulting a math emission signal which tells the ECM to vary again either VTEC or the Ignition timing to get the system onto a air fuel track map match ... but with the faulty o2 sensors, the engine and ECM are recalculating, and IMA is reassessing the power output to get the car to run the HP output the driver is requesting.
I can not confirm this, because I have not completed the change of that last O2 sensor. Once I do that I will see what the performance is then, do a full IMA battery rebuild since I have an extra battery to disassemble and pull the core rods to assesse and recharge. Then do a cleaning to make sure the terminals are all free of dust, corrison, and then put anti corrison grease well on the terminals. This should fix the problems.
If not then you might have either bad relays or modules which does happen. I have had bad fuel ignition relays or distrubutors go bad in my older integra's. usually very rare and those cars were in moist conditions which is a very serious problem.
I have seen shops here spending more time lately on diagnosising situations which they ended up finding here corroded electrical terminals or faulted Vaccum hoses which leaked. Check for yourself.
These Civic's are really great cars, great milage, very quiet, and I just which the seats, and the mirrors were better, like a slight bend in the mirrors to help eliminate blind spots, and a larger center review mirror that has a bend to catch the blind spots. It probably be nice if I could get the Push Button Ignition that does not require insertion of the key into a hole, just put the key into a cup and push squence code and start. That would be nice. Plus a nice double din Stereo/ CD/mp3/bluetooth with RECORDing front and rear incident camera's, that would be Freaking Awesome.
I am tring to integrate that, but I need a nice garage to pull the car apart. I have some other glitches like window don't move. Leakage in truck which pisses me off to NO END.. I like to upgrade the stereo to BOSE and sound deaden the doors, floor and fire wall so it is all quiet and cool, and upgrade the interior air filter with UV anti bacterial/germicidal defense system to keep the interior of the car clean.
I hope my information helps. take care of the car and get the suspension upgrades to tighten up the car. I am not a fan of the tiny wheels, I like the 15 of the EX models, plus with a tightened suspension and little lower, this little car will not skip a corner, but make your passengers hug each other~!!
I appreciate the detailed video, thank you! Any idea if this might work on a 2006 Honda Civic hybrid?
Man you saved my entire life right now,I got a 2008 and I been passing it for last 3 years and this year I’ll try using your method !?:)
arda turan thank you so much for watching my video. Just remember it takes a bit of patience, especially when you get people honking and giving you funny looks because your driving so slow. Just put your hazards on turn the radio up and go for a slow cruise. Once all the sensors are reset get your emissions don’t then back to driving like normal.
Unfortunately my civic is out of commission, my son ran a red light and got T-boned.
Good like, let me know how it goes.
I got a question did you leave that standard in the whole time that you're driving all the way up until you got to the to the smog check place and did you change it out right when you got there or what ?
Thanks Shane . You are HIM 👌🔥🔥🔥
I own a 2006 insight. Try this for a force charge ur battery. Park in neutral e brake on hold rpm at 3 500 until charge bars appear hold steady until fully charged
2005 Honda accord hybrid owner here. I will try it. Thanks
Thanks for the video. Question: do I need to reset the MIL before the slow driving? I just hit the highway to cycle my 03 civic hybrid and prior to that I reset the codes. During the drive it tells you to hit 50-60 mph and my MIL light came back on. Some of my readiness codes came back, but still no evap, heated catalyst, or secondary air system. Going to try your method to see if I can get the computer to read all of that missing data again just wanted to know if I need to reset again. Btw, didn’t notice my issue until after putting in wrong gas; made the car lean but have since been filling up with the right stuff to “purge” it out.
You reset the CEL prior to driving.... I've done this early in the morning years back on mine... was able to put 20 miles on it and passed it. as soon as I left the light came back on.
Hello, I tried the same as you did. However, my OBD show me that the "erase failure". Can you help me ?
My 2012 honda has IMA pop up and an wondering from your you tube video if the battery life is coming to the end .I am worried of where to source it and affordability in kenya 🇰🇪
Hello, I had a Honda hybrid engine start. I put in gear doesn’t move. I plug diagnosing to the car doesn’t show me any code. Do you have any idea?
Instead of driving super slow you can pull the back seat and shut off the IMA circuit breaker. Now you can drive the car with just the gas motor. Before doing this make sure your 12v battery is charged real good.
i heard that hybrid cars don't have alternators. so how will the 12v battery get charge ?
@@gamithadithya4166 You are correct. This is why I said make sure it's charged good.
What I understand in the 2nd gen is the 3 phase electric motor send high voltage to the battery. It then is connected to another device right next to the circuit breaker to step it down to near the proper 12-14vdc which charges the battery. In turn that runs the accessories.
So you could only drive for short distances. Sorry for any misunderstanding.
@@thomsonkev You're right about this... Bought an 03 Civic Hybrid with a shot hybrid battery and thought I could give it a quick jump to drive it up on my trailer... nope. Dies the moment I disconnect the jump leads. If the IMA system is nonfunctional, the 12v battery is incapable of charging.
Does having the IMA on affect the car to drive ? And would the car get damaged if it doesn’t get fixed?
No it doesn’t affect it any. Depending on how bad the hybrid battery is It might lower your gas mileage slightly but that’s about it.
Nice
Hey great video! I have this exact car. It won’t stay cranked as soon as we remove jumper cables it’s dies. There’s no alternator I hear so would you know what this might be and have you encountered this?
Dawn Pugh, thank you for watching my video. Sorry to hear you are having car problems. I’m definitely no expert on theses cars but I do know that the 12v battery controls the hybrid brains, it might be an issue with the 12v battery or bad connection to the battery. Tomorrow I can test it out on my car, I’ll start it then disconnect the 12v battery and see if the car dies. I’ll let you know.
Shane Weston that would be amazing thank you!!
Sooooo very interesting, I disconnected my battery and the car stayed running. Here’s where it gets interesting, with the battery disconnected and running for 5 to 10 minutes the car did die. It did this twice to me. The second time I noticed that the hybrid battery charge indicator (the green bars) were completely empty so the third time I started the car and charged the hybrid battery. With full bars on the hybrid indicator, the car has been running for 20+ min without dying. I wonder if it could be your hybrid battery. Is the hybrid charge indicator completely empty? If so start the car and run it at about 3000rpm until you get full bars on the indicator and then see if it dies. Hope this helps
Shane Weston yes the bars where low and that light is on. I’ve watched a few videos today that said also of that lights on that’s what it is. We are talking big money for those from what I can tell. In am going to try this first thing tomorrow thanks so much
Ive been looking into how to bypass the hybrid battery. Im thinking about purchasing one for cheap that is in prestine condition besides that the hybrid battery needs replaced. They can cost anywhere from $1,200-$3k! Which is more than the car itself is worth! Making these cars seemingly not worth the investment. Which depends because you'd have to own it for another 5yrs just to break even by saving money on gas. Honestly it wouldnt be a smart move on my part. As id be better off getting a newer car for the amount id have to put in it.
However I just saw an interesting video where you can bypass the hybrid system entirely. Essentially just makimg it a regular non hybrid system relying soley upon the combustion engine itself. Apparently there is a breaker switch behind the rear seats. This is where the guy turned the switch to the off position. Where he disabled the hybrid system entirely. He said that he uses marine batteries, instead of a regular car battery. As Marine batteries wont damage as easily as a car battery from being drained on a constant. The guy claimed that he had Been driving it for 70k with no major problems. Besides having to get a jump every now and then. Which can be a pain in the ass, especially this day and age. Its hard to get a random stranger to give you a jump. The man that made the video had a portable battery charger that he took with him evwrywhere.
So in hindsight you can save time and money by disabling the hybrid system entirely. Then sustain it by having to jump the battery whenever it doesnt have the amps to crank the car. From the way this guy was speaking, he wasnt having any major issues with the overall functioning and efficiency of the vehicle. It was getting better gas mileage since the hybrid system was no longer putting an unnecessary load on the engine. Plus he was only having to give it a jump every now and then. Mainly under heavy city driving. As he had no issues whatsoever driving it on the highway as it always kept the charge whenever he would go to start it again. He claimed he had been driving it like this for over 70k like i previously stated. So my conclusion is that its a quick fix or bandaid to fix the problem of having to replace the expensive hybrid system.
Im no expert on these electric cars and being that this is a hybrid. You could and should be able to drive it without any major issues affecting the engine by completely bypassing the hybrid system. These are the first generation of hybrid cars from my recollection. So its no surprise that they didnt last til about 6-10yrs depending on how many miles it has. Overall if i had one id indeed bypass it to buy me enough time to save up for another car. Possibly trade it in to lease a brand new vehicle. It'd really be hard to sell these cars no matter the condition it is in for the simple fact that replacing the batteries will cost more than the car is worth.
In my situation im only considering purchasing it if I can get it for less than $1,200. The regular civics in the condition as good as the one im looking at are still going for $2,500-$3,500. The car should still be as reliable as its conterpart. Bypassing the hybrid system should in essence be the same exact car albeit a bit heavier due to having the batteries. Ive barely began to research this particular model civic. So i domt actually know if it has the same engine as the regular civic? I can sacrifice a some annoyances by having to jump the battery every now and then. If he had been driving it for over 70k than i could potentially get atleast 2-5yrs out of it easily. Only time will tell as it is the case with anything in life.
This video however was very informative amd may infact come in handy if i purchase this car as im actually considering it because the price is almost too good to be true. If its only something as simple as bypassing the hybrid system than i can live with the rest.
the passage of the egr gets pluged most of the time
airbag light is on, i got the same problem on mine it's driving me crazy
Did you kick the scanner in the whole time when you're driving I need to know because I had to say a problem with my 05 if you get this message can you reply back to me thank you I'm going to go try it out see what happens but I just want to know if the scanner if you keep the scanner in the whole time while you're driving in until probably get to the to jiffy little before we get a smogged ?
I left it in, so that I could check to see when the errors codes cleared then removed it when I got to jiffy lube.
Thanks for watching, hope this helps.
What speed did you get egr ready at?
Marco Rivas I’m not 100% positive on what actually resets the egr. I maxed out at 60mph on my drive. It might be the speed or distance traveled or a combination of both speed and distance.
You can just put front on jacks and put in drive and wait for 50 miles and you done
How long will the IMA light stay off?
it depends on the health of the battery. Obviously its not in great shape if the IMA light is coming on. With that said mine has stayed off for as long as a couple days and as short as minutes. Its defiantly not a permanent fix, it will only get you passed emissions test.
thank you so much life saver🙏🏾
Jose Mrnde, you’re so welcome. Did you get yours to pass? Its a bit tedious but it works and a heck of a lot better then a new battery.
Shane Weston yes I tried it today,I drove about 30 miles at a low acelaration and the light has not come on,Ill be at the inspection station tomorrow
So the light come on since you’ve tried this? I put a new battery in and the light is still on
createxperience
yes, the light comes back on as soon as you begin to accelerate into the assistant. This is only a temporary fix so that you can pass emissions test. For me It wasn't/isn't worth putting the time and money into a new battery.
But it has to fix right?
I have a 2005 honda hybrid with a manual transmission. The honda dealership had reset the battery and told me that if it comes on again I would need a new battery. It did came on but Im wondering is it due to me not switching gears when the indicator light tell me to
My civic ima light come and red light for the bettery come on too no charging how can someone help my civic 2012 Honda civic hybrid this is my number please if can help 08036456762 my WhatsApp iam Nigerian thanks
I have P1600, P1448, and P1449. My battery is overheating and I’m not sure why
I read somewhere else that someone was having the same issue and it was due to their battery fan being bad
Why don’t u put it on a 4 jack of the ground wouldn’t that be better?
Hola saludos
Tengo un honda Civic híbrido se le prendió la luz IMA
Mi pregunta es si no logro cambiar la batería híbrida lo puedo seguir usando sin que dañe otro parte del auto y como hago para apagar esa luz gracias saludos desde panama
Encontraste solución,tengo el mismo problema
no se puede .. el.carro deja de funcionar . .
Help my?
Please
You can rebalance the cells in these batteries without taking the battery out of the car or anything -- just buy a $200 grid charger. Charge it whenever the IMA light starts to trip again and it will rebalance the cells, and the cells will normally stay in balance for weeks or months at a time. It's possible to nurse along old batteries for hundreds of thousands of miles though regular rebalancing with just a grid charger.
th-cam.com/video/jb5FOSWbtOE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=k2pflDaq542i-1dg