You really need to make a video about yourself, your background, how you learned your machining skills and knowledge. That would be interesting to your viewers I'm sure@@Blondihacks
Not trying to be a pedantic, but the relevant measure is surface speed, not rotational speed. At the center, surface speed is effectively zero inches per minute, although the rotational speed is still whatever revolutions per minute. Zero is still the key concept, as you you pointed out.
Is it safe to assume that one can switch out the live centre for the dead centre part way through a job if clearance is an issue, whilst maintaining accuracy? That way the majority of the job can be done with the least amount of friction and heat as possible.
Hello Quinn, I just bought a mini lathe and I'm looking for a drill head that comes with the taper end. what store/website would you recommend me to get my equipment?
As Quinn hasn’t answered I’ll note that she’s mentioned Little Machine Shop a few times in her videos. They sell all kinds of machinist tooling and related stuff. Here’s a link to their page with drills of various sorts: littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=-390856429
These videos are excellent. Thank you for taking the time to do them and for taking the time to produce a comprehensible well thought out script and lesson plan. It makes so much difference watching your tutorials over others who just ‘freestyle’ it with thousands of errrs and ummmms! You are a true professional tutor. I am subscribing.
Thanks for the video. Interesting that you say that the ball bearing in the live support need to be high precision. I bought a new Chinese lathe 6 months ago. When I rotated the live support by hand I could hear a rattling sound from the inside. So I opened the holder (I don't know what it is called) and found three Chinese ball bearings there. I replaced them with top quality SKF ball bearings and the sound was gone. The original ball bearings where faulty already from the beginning. That is really bad quality.
Great point about the ball bearings of the live center getting in the way of the tool post. I have run into this all the time but never heard anyone mention this.
Quinn, i'm a total newbie i just bought a mill lathe combo, and haven't done anything yet but drill a few holes.. i was wondering though i want to turn a 4 inch steel round, it's too large for my chuck. and don't want to invest in a new chuck quite yet.. would it be a sturdy enough setup to drill and tap a 5/8 hole in the center of the workpiece round bar, and using a threaded mt3 arbor to hold it in position in my chuck.. u think it would hold without snapping the threaded end on the arbor.. and will it unthread itself even if i were to use Loctite Red..?? i don't want to bring out the face plate just yet.. plus i worry about getting it center on the face plate to turn larger diameter work.. i have to fabricate my own steady rest.. progress is slow but i'm getting there.. i suppose the way to center round bar on the faceplate would be to get my dial indicator out.? then start adjusting and adjusting till i can adjust no more.. hmm i just put 2 and 2 together. what if i were to use the mt3 threaded arbor in conjunction with the faceplate to center my work..?
Omg you are so down to the point , for a moth breather like mwah these tutorials are priceless , thank you really though for being so in depth it really makes such an difference when your an noob 👌🖖🤘
Love your videos! Going just a touch deeper on tapers (done by reflex if experienced): chunking it in to latch it in place works if: 1. Both tapers are clean: no chips, dirt, rust, etc. Might want to make a habit of wiping them down, applying some sort of anti-corrosion treatment. 2. No (convex) dings or other projections (handle carefully).
I've randomly watched a few of your videos. I've now started watching, in order, your Metal Lathe Tutorial series. You are very knowledgeable and extremely well spoken. Your statements are backed up with easily understood explanations. I've come to the conclusion you'd make a great neighbor and am willing to kick in say $3,500 towards a down payment. let me know, 'thanks 🙃
Love your videos and thought I'd mention that In the days before revolving centres existed/became common, the live centre was the moving centre at the headstock :)
White lead was used as a lubricant on the Lathes in the old days. The older lathes have a place for that and a little pointy tool to apply it on the tailstock.
In some of the videos you can see the model number on the Lathe. It’s a PM-1022V lathe (10” swing x 22” max between centers) made by Precision Matthews. You can find it at www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1022v-pm-1030v/. I know this because I’ve been considering one of their lathes for a while. The Hobby Machinist forums (www.hobby-machinist.com/forums/) have lots of information on this stuff as well as a dedicated area for Precision Matthews machines.
Tomas Classon thanks for asking. My east coast ears have been hearing Whale Oil on several videos and that just didn’t sound like a west coast possibility.
Thanks for pointing out that the RPM of the stock is effectively zero at the center. I hadn't though of that before. Excellent!
Glad I could help! I remember when I learned that, and I also thought it was neat, so I had to pass that along.
You really need to make a video about yourself, your background, how you learned your machining skills and knowledge. That would be interesting to your viewers I'm sure@@Blondihacks
@@KW-ei3pi Yah, I may well do that! A few people have asked for a behind-the-scenes background thing.
Not trying to be a pedantic, but the relevant measure is surface speed, not rotational speed. At the center, surface speed is effectively zero inches per minute, although the rotational speed is still whatever revolutions per minute.
Zero is still the key concept, as you you pointed out.
I ve just got started on home machining and I found your videos are super helpful, thx alot
I was going to write a review on this. But the fellow below stated exactly what I wanted to say.
Thanks!
What a great tutorial. Thanks!
Is it safe to assume that one can switch out the live centre for the dead centre part way through a job if clearance is an issue, whilst maintaining accuracy?
That way the majority of the job can be done with the least amount of friction and heat as possible.
We should have had you teaching our shop class in 1975.
You are really good teacher. What is the model of your machine? Thanks.
Some videos in this series show that it’s a PM-1022V Lathe. These are made by Precision Mathews.
Hello Quinn, I just bought a mini lathe and I'm looking for a drill head that comes with the taper end. what store/website would you recommend me to get my equipment?
As Quinn hasn’t answered I’ll note that she’s mentioned Little Machine Shop a few times in her videos. They sell all kinds of machinist tooling and related stuff. Here’s a link to their page with drills of various sorts: littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=-390856429
Can I ask you what type of lathe you have and where did you get it,🤔👍🏻 thank you in advance, take care and be safe. 🍀🇮🇪
These videos are excellent. Thank you for taking the time to do them and for taking the time to produce a comprehensible well thought out script and lesson plan. It makes so much difference watching your tutorials over others who just ‘freestyle’ it with thousands of errrs and ummmms! You are a true professional tutor. I am subscribing.
Love the AVE reference at 5:28 (200 pound gorilla) lol
Thanks for the video.
Interesting that you say that the ball bearing in the live support need to be high precision.
I bought a new Chinese lathe 6 months ago. When I rotated the live support by hand I could hear a rattling sound from the inside. So I opened the holder (I don't know what it is called) and found three Chinese ball bearings there. I replaced them with top quality SKF ball bearings and the sound was gone.
The original ball bearings where faulty already from the beginning. That is really bad quality.
Great point about the ball bearings of the live center getting in the way of the tool post. I have run into this all the time but never heard anyone mention this.
I would have guessed some type of tapered roller bearing instead of a balls. The live center seems like it would receive regular heavy loads.
Quinn, i'm a total newbie i just bought a mill lathe combo, and haven't done anything yet but drill a few holes.. i was wondering though i want to turn a 4 inch steel round, it's too large for my chuck. and don't want to invest in a new chuck quite yet.. would it be a sturdy enough setup to drill and tap a 5/8 hole in the center of the workpiece round bar, and using a threaded mt3 arbor to hold it in position in my chuck.. u think it would hold without snapping the threaded end on the arbor.. and will it unthread itself even if i were to use Loctite Red..?? i don't want to bring out the face plate just yet.. plus i worry about getting it center on the face plate to turn larger diameter work.. i have to fabricate my own steady rest.. progress is slow but i'm getting there.. i suppose the way to center round bar on the faceplate would be to get my dial indicator out.? then start adjusting and adjusting till i can adjust no more.. hmm i just put 2 and 2 together. what if i were to use the mt3 threaded arbor in conjunction with the faceplate to center my work..?
Omg you are so down to the point , for a moth breather like mwah these tutorials are priceless , thank you really though for being so in depth it really makes such an difference when your an noob 👌🖖🤘
If you need a tail support to work on the piece in the first place, how do you first face it so that you can fix the tail support correctly?
Novice learning here this is fantastic! Thank you
Been machining on and off for 20 years and still learning little thing that I should have known a long time ago😊 thanks.
How else do I support this channel aside from subscribing, liking and sharing
There’s always Patreon! 😄
www.patreon.com/QuinnDunki
Im learning some awesome stuff here cheers
Very useful, many thanks to you.
Bob’s your uncle, haha, I bet you’re a Tom Lipton fan :) Nicely done series, thanks for sharing.
or AvE...
it's weird seeing your intro in slow motion 😁
Love your videos!
Going just a touch deeper on tapers (done by reflex if experienced): chunking it in to latch it in place works if:
1. Both tapers are clean: no chips, dirt, rust, etc. Might want to make a habit of wiping them down, applying some sort of anti-corrosion treatment.
2. No (convex) dings or other projections (handle carefully).
Thanks Quinn - working my way through this series
I've randomly watched a few of your videos.
I've now started watching, in order, your Metal Lathe Tutorial series.
You are very knowledgeable and extremely well spoken.
Your statements are backed up with easily understood explanations.
I've come to the conclusion you'd make a great neighbor and am willing
to kick in say $3,500 towards a down payment.
let me know, 'thanks 🙃
Thanks a million.
You are clear as daylight. Good teaching. So far I cant come up with any dumb questions to ask. Impressive ! :)
What size is your QCTH? Where should I purchase it?
Like you videos.
I saw that interview with you. I almost did not Recognize you without the glasses
going through this playlist has been immensely helpful in getting started with my mini lathe!!
Wow, this is so helpful! ! Your making such helpful videos! Thanks so much! I really appreciate it!
Thanks for video keep going 🤠 greeting from Morocco
Am just schooling what am passionate about and came along this❤❤❤
Love your videos and thought I'd mention that In the days before revolving centres existed/became common, the live centre was the moving centre at the headstock :)
Hi Quinn, where do I can find an apron like yours? Is for a gift idea!
White lead was used as a lubricant on the Lathes in the old days. The older lathes have a place for that and a little pointy tool to apply it on the tailstock.
'Tail support' - for when you really, REALLY love your work...
👍
Amazing tutorial series👌
You mind sharing where you got your tailstock drill chuck from? I can’t find a decent one that isn’t for mini lathes
That one is from Little Machine Shop. It’s a JT33 taper, and a good size for a MT2 tailstock.
Blondihacks sweet, thanks!
Thank you these are just the right length to keep your interest.
I love this series. Thank you for posting it.
is that your elise and do you track it?
What’s the cat’s name?
Sprocket! 🐈
@@Blondihacks Now’s the time on Sprockets we dance… Séamus, Clarice and our new cat Will like him/her
amazing video
Trop forte !
Andre Jolivet Merci bien!
Do you have a vid on when to use dead and live centres? Thanks
In some of the videos you can see the model number on the Lathe. It’s a PM-1022V lathe (10” swing x 22” max between centers) made by Precision Matthews. You can find it at www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1022v-pm-1030v/. I know this because I’ve been considering one of their lathes for a while. The Hobby Machinist forums (www.hobby-machinist.com/forums/) have lots of information on this stuff as well as a dedicated area for Precision Matthews machines.
Your website is down...
Try again? It seems to be working for me
But, what about the Lotus!
It’s gone now, I’m afraid. Sold it to fund this channel.
"whey oil"? "Way oil"? Please clarify. Great video series, by the way!
Way oil, also called ISO68. You’ve reminded me to do a video on lubricants. Stay tuned for that!
@@Blondihacks Thanks, I'll be here!
Tomas Classon thanks for asking. My east coast ears have been hearing Whale Oil on several videos and that just didn’t sound like a west coast possibility.
Awesome video! Thanks alot!