Josh, I’m wondering if you or any of your comment readers know where a person could buy a Toroidal lpg tank (That fits in the spare tire well) Would like to find one in the US or Canada? I realize it would probably have to be for “Off-road only” but I can’t seem to find one anywhere! Ordering from Poland gets crazy expensive.
The more I watch your videos the more confidence I have in keeping my Passat . It’s a time bomb but man it’s a good to drive time bomb. I’ll definitely be looking at this as it’s only got 80k miles hopefully many more to come
I hear you, this was always in the back of my mind as I really didn’t want to have to flush/replace the fuel system. This one’s got double that and going strong after getting caught up on deferred maintenance
While it does happen, people make these pumps to be way worse than they actually are. Maintenance is KEY. Make sure you're getting the best fuel, regularly changing your fuel filters, and running an additive for additional lubricity. My CKRA passat at 325k works excellent and is on its original HPFP. Definitely will be doing the kit though! Hopefully get plently more life out of it!
I still haven’t been able to source a failed pump if that gives you any indication. I think the main thing is the cost catches people eyes, you won’t hear about the 99 that run fine but the 1 that fails will be everywhere
@marcmcbride3911 but that makes me wonder, where are you getting your fuel, what are your maintenance routines. I've owned plenty of CP4 vehicles, with no issue.
@123erikJohnstone maintenance routines? They are simply incompatible with U.S. diesel. They don't wear out. You just happen upon fuel that is slightly worse and the pump goes. Cars are not supposed to require everything to be precise enough for a moon landing.
I just snagged a vw cp4 pump from a 2011 tdi wagon this weekend. Everything is mint inside. Now I want to machine a clocking feature to prevent the roller from clocking.
I'm also glad that I found this video, I work on farm equipment too and was literally planning on doing exactly this with the cat filters and amazon mounts lol
@JoshsJettas I'm a first generation farmer, so we just buy and use whatever is cheapest, lol I have case, p&h, linkbelt, bobcat, allis chalmers etc. Whatever is cheap. 🤣
@@Tahoe0512 this is where I got it, just select your engine whitbreadperformance.com/products/3-0l-tdi-cp4-metering-valve-bypass-kit?variant=44741025923231
The CP4 failures are so difficult to track and find a rough mileage frame, percentage chance, etc. Regardless, I've been looking at these kits since they dropped. I run additive, swap fuel filter more often than VW's rec, always check for metal shavings... Basically, any "you should" item, I'm doing it. I plan to eventually swap in a CP3 (next timing belt, so another 70k miles), but your point about having it to use in a different car/resell later is valid and has me re-thinking it again. This is supposed to be my forever car. Having to replace injectors, clean tank, etc wouldn't make me ditch the car either, but this would make my life easier and the kit is about the cost of one new injector.
It was the what if that convinced me, I’ve done a belt on a car with 550k km on original pump but my luck it’ll fail next month. Would make for good content but I’d rather not have to flush/replace the fuel system
Thanks for the video on this! Just stumbled across it 🍻! Just FYI - I've never changed prices on the kits, my website adjusts price to native currency of your IP address. So if you're in Canada, it's in Canadian dollars.
No problem thanks for the great kit/tdi support. That’s what it was, I must’ve seen the usd price at one time and when I went back when making the video it’s cad.
Defiently feel its more rare than online would have you believe...i owned a cjaa from new...its still going over 600kms now and its been malone stage 3.6 since 100k and ran hard..ran below fuel light nearly every tank...second one no issues at 226k either. My sister had one...and 3 or 4 of my buddies. The gf cjaa no issues either. I havent heard of one here in ontario personally. Still not a bad idea if you want to worry less...ive never worried...have a cata and a cnrb and no issues with them either and there both modded as well.
A buddy works at a shop outside Toronto and he said he’s seen 2, one on a Jetta and one on a Touareg. Although they believe fuel/fuel filter was the culprit. I wasn’t concerned too much but there’s been multiple times I’ve gotten in the car and my wife has driven it to 0 km to empty so I was concerned one of these times it’ll get a bunch of air and wreck it
@@iceag3iscoming I have always used fuel additive year round so both have done well regardless of fuel supplier but the us does have poor quality fuel.
@@mikemiklavic1930 I'm in Canada but also use diesel kleen every fill up and change out the fuel filter every third oil change. It's keep my fuel system happy
I've been doing it for years on mine. Brand new tranny fluid has detergents even regular car oil will work . 100 ml in every other fill up is fine. 400k km of racing my Jetta. Zero problems. It lubricates the whole system injectors and upper cylinder too.
Does the stock fuel filter actually filter the return fuel? Or is it just passing through? Was thinking about using the cat fuel filter for pre pump and the 10 micron earls vapor guard for return.
Return isn’t filtered stock but I believe the internal part can redirect the return back into the supply in cold weather (thermal T on the older cars). The filter that comes with the kit would make install a lot easier imo vs what I did.
Based on that extended crank would you say your fuel pump was pumping dry? I've always had my cjaa fire right up after filter changes but I also used the key method to prime, which apparently doesn't work. Three years ago I noticed a very very small amount of metal flake in the fuel filter but she's still running fine. I almost exclusively run Kwik Trip fuel and the filters are always clean. (crossed fingers)
It for sure had air in it still, I had that thought in my mind, I’m going to wreck this pump trying to save it. My sisters car had very small flakes in her ckra a few years ago and it’s still going strong, could’ve came from the gas station too.
This prevents the cam lobe and roller wear material from entering the rail & injectors. If the high pressure piston were to wear, that can still enter the system. One thing is unclear is how on earth does all the particles get through that dense steel mesh in that metering valve? From videos I’ve seen when the rail has been flushed there were lots of swarf and they were quite big and impossible that they passed through that mesh. Anyone know how the standard mesh fails to filter the filings?
That’s why I wanted to find a failed pump, I’ve got one here but not certain it had truly failed. I’m assuming small stuff starts making it through the mesh and chews up the piston which makes the larger chunks you find in the rail/lines, but that’s an assumption.
Hi Josh. I bought a Jetta cjaa used and have recently noticed a diesel leak under around the HPFP. Showing diesel below pump and spreading toward the timing belt cover. It looks as if it has been accumulating for some time. 105,000 mi. Is there a common cause for this leak or should I expect the worst case scenario of failed pump? No running issues or check engine light. Anyone with insight your response would be much appreciated.
I was just rewatching this as I’m finally going to be doing this to my CJAA and noticed that you said the “shrapnel” goes through the bottom to the top into the rail and injectors. So this kit basically just prevents the debris from getting to the tank and redistributed?
Factory that is what happens, bottom end to top end then to the rail and injectors wrecking everything. With this kit it isolates the top end so bottom end just goes the to filter, top end is fed fresh fuel so when the pump fails your only replacing the pump and filter
I got my plate a month ago, I may try installing it today, my passat with ckra looks to have room to add my cat filter infront of the oem filter so I can use both, I think a simple solution to know if my filter is plugging, a pressure switch to ground, run the wire and splice into my oil pressure switch wire, I think 50 psi should work, then if I ever have less than 50 between the cat filter and the cp4, my oil pressure warning would come on in the dash. Simple cheap and no need to add anything in the dash.
@@JoshsJettas my base would not fit, I tried everywhere. Plans changed. I am going to put a 1r0749 where the def tank was. Just have to wrap it in insulation for winter.
@JoshsJettas I found a fuel heater, I already have an espar coolant heater, so if I run coolant lines and an extra pump to the back, I can mount a fuel heater before the filter, insulate the filter and should be fine. I think ill use a 1r0749 and be good for 200,000 miles.
Is there a way to add that fuel filter gauge that was apart of the kit that wasn't available anymore, that would be a cool and functional touch to the install?
Hey! I’m hoping i can pick your brain a little bit. I have an EOC kit with tune and the Whitbread kit and am getting a limp mode issue on hard acceleration over 3500
The kit has arrived at my home now, but have not installed yet. I read today that several people are having issues after installing this kit. Have you heard of this?
I was wondering if next filter change you could run a test of a better bleeding regimin. loosen a hose on the return filter and prime till fuel is there. the system then should be bled of air and primed at its best.
@ I’m sticking with oem system plus obd2 prime function seems to be GTG for me on a v6 cnrb engine. I’d be hesitant with the fuel being contaminated when you fill filters instead of priming and filtering but your call. These fuel systems seem to be delicate with US fuel I’d rather not risk it IMHO . great video though
It’s the perfect place for it. So in Canadian dollars along with our 13% sales tax it was $65 for 2 filters, $55 for the 2 filter heads, I think it was $15 for the brass fittings, maybe $5 in hose and clamps (I buy it in bulk). So for future filter changes it’ll be $32 to replace the one pre-pump filter vs $55 for the stock vw one.
@@willpost7857 not going to lie I used to work for a Deere dealer (that’s what I primarily work on independently too) so it pains me a bit but the cat filters are so common for trucks so the filters and filter heads were so cheap
@@JoshsJettasHi again! I have a question related to your CJAA EGR removal video (something I plan on doing soon). You mentioned 2 options for deleting the EGR cooler in the rear: one by simply adding the blocker plate; and the other by removing the cooler and sealing the bottom of the turbo. Is there I really advantage to this or would the simpler way work just fine? Thanks, I’d really appreciate your input 👍
Needs to be thoroughly flushed, my favourite way was bypass the heater core and run it awhile with rad flush. Flush multiple times before installing the new heater core. Follow that up with running HD diesel specific coolant (John Deere/Cummins/cat) and I’ve had good luck. Other option would be removing the cooler and related parts.
@JoshsJettas well I can tell you right now, that my cvca pump is dying at 200k right now. And I ordered this whole set up yesterday to do this including the whitbread piece (fml). I did find a used pump with 66k for 275$ though rather than 800-1200.
Hey @josh’s jetta’s, I attempted to install metering valve bypass yesterday along with a new filter, and I don’t have vcds or anything so I went and jumped the pumps, after a certain amount of time, I was able to start the car and it seemed to run well, however, a short time later (maybe half an hour) me and my wife went to the store and when we came back out to go Home, we got in, went a short distance and then it died with a flashing glow plug light and read low rail pressure when hooked up to scanner, is it possible that I didn’t bleed out all the air and trashed the hpfp? When I get time this afternoon I’m gonna attempt to undo everything that I did with new continental 5/16” fuel line and see if i can get it running again, but I’m fairly afraid I may have grenaded my pump.
Also, used white lithium grease to stick the o ring to the metering valve plate, is it possible that it got hot, broke down and clogged an injector/contaminated pump?
@davidlayton2137 I would think the grease would break down and be fine, I use that quite often. I’d try to thoroughly bleed it and try it, make sure none of the o rings got pinched or sliced. I had no issues but it was in the back of my mind about splitting the supply fuel up if there’s a possibility of low supply pressure. Mine seems fine and that’s why I including taking it for some spirited driving while watching rail pressure
Great stuff Josh. I’m going to order the block for my CJAA. I already have the cat filter and filter head. The parts have been sitting in my shop for 4 years since I could never find room to mount it. I’m going to steal your idea and mount it where the Dpf once lived. Any concern about heat coming off the elbow for the down pipe?
I did think about it, no doubt it’ll get some heat soak but there’s a fair bit of air gap between the pipe and filter. I think enough fuel goes through there it won’t make a big difference, worse case some header wrap could help.
Depends on what your trying to achieve. The one filter is filtering pre-pump and one is filter post-pump. The post-pump filter should catch all the filings so factory pre pump filter and cat post pump filter should work. My thought is the factory is a 10 micron filter vs the cat 2 micron so theres a possibility of the cat filter clogging with stuff the factory filter didn’t catch.
No issues other then a seeping pipe fitting. I’m undecided, these filters are designed for diesels which consume a boatload more fuel then these little TDI’s. I’ll probably double the oem interval but more frequent won’t hurt
The diesel quality in the USA compared to Europe is very poor,,It lacks the lubrication EU diesel has,,I highly recommend putting dipetain in your diesel ,,
Do you think doing this makes a long term fix to not need to do a CP3 swap, or do you think this is just a fail safe and the CJAA CP4 should still be swapped regardless?
The bypass kit is a fail safe, won’t prevent it from failing. The filters not going to hurt but I think the main reasons they fail are mis/poor fuel, lack of fuel/aeration or just internal failure. I personally don’t think the fail rate is high enough to swap to a cp3 on a relatively stock car (stage 2-3 included), but with the bypass kit installed and it does fail that would be the time to upgrade (saves repairing the rest of the system).
This one puts a little bit of oil into the intake, as long as oil consumption isn’t bad I wouldn’t get too worried. The ccv is built into the valve cover so the entire thing needs to be replaced.
It’s the bottom end of the pump that fails, in stock form the bottom end fuel is routed to the top which wrecks the pump and sends junk to the injectors. With this bypass kit and junk from the bottom end leaves to pump and gets caught at the second filter. Only fresh fuel enters the top which goes to the injectors
Unless you are running Malone stage4+ or something unusual; you shouldn't have any reason to push more fuel then the factory 11mm impeller can handle. Afaik. My alh only made 300ish ft lbs though so I could be wrong
If installing the bypass kit and return filter you should be good (that’s what I’m hoping for atleast). Assuming the injectors haven’t eaten to much metal so far.
I love my TDI but damn... I think I should have just bought a gas Toyota. lol... But I do love working on new things so here goes nothing. Things I guess I got to do... Change timing belt, Add Cat filter conversion, delete DPF/EGR... I feel like this car is never done.
I own a 2014 vw golf tdi manual with the cjaa engine. Anyone else been struggling with engine stuttering/surge around 1600-2000 rpms light throttle. It’s been a slow building issue that has gotten much worse over a year now. So bad to the point it now has thrown multiple misfire codes p0300 misfires on cylinders 2-4.
@@JoshsJettasIs there any way to check injectors in VCDS? No torque difference codes have been thrown. Just the P0300 on one occasion and the detected misfires on cylinders 2-4 a few days after. I Have been data logging in VCDS. It immediately starts surging/stumbling every time as a massive spike in the MAF occurs. Also note worthy I suspect the EGR system since just recently I unplugged the ASV right before the high pressure egr valve in the intake. Then drove it for a few days data logging, and it ran perfectly without any of the MAF spikes too. Also quieted down the engine injection/knock sound quite a bit. I have replaced the MAF, cleaned out the intake egr valve, and tried a brand new ASV too but still no luck fixing the issue. Lastly, it also hiccups/misfires intermittently on start ups too. Any suggestions of what to check next would be great!
I haven’t, although this specific bypass kit has only been out for real long (I think whitbread has only had it for a few months, previously another shop maybe a year but they weren’t big into TDI’s). That’s why I wanted to check and watch rail pressure afterwards to make sure the pump wasn’t doing anything weird.
I’ll have to edit that, I did notice the Donaldson cross reference filters were advertised as 3 or 4 micron. I’ll probably switch to them on the next interval, had to use the Cat filters for the thumbnail
The repair kit for the entire fuel system is $3.2k, but I’d imagine labour would start adding up. This kit should contain it to the pump only so should be considerably less
Josh, I’m wondering if you or any of your comment readers know where a person could buy a Toroidal lpg tank (That fits in the spare tire well) Would like to find one in the US or Canada? I realize it would probably have to be for “Off-road only” but I can’t seem to find one anywhere! Ordering from Poland gets crazy expensive.
I can’t help but I’ll pin this and see if anyone else can
Looks like they’re readily available in the US.
The more I watch your videos the more confidence I have in keeping my Passat . It’s a time bomb but man it’s a good to drive time bomb. I’ll definitely be looking at this as it’s only got 80k miles hopefully many more to come
I hear you, this was always in the back of my mind as I really didn’t want to have to flush/replace the fuel system. This one’s got double that and going strong after getting caught up on deferred maintenance
hardly a time bomb. my a3 2.0 tdi has 212k miles on it
While it does happen, people make these pumps to be way worse than they actually are. Maintenance is KEY. Make sure you're getting the best fuel, regularly changing your fuel filters, and running an additive for additional lubricity. My CKRA passat at 325k works excellent and is on its original HPFP. Definitely will be doing the kit though! Hopefully get plently more life out of it!
I still haven’t been able to source a failed pump if that gives you any indication. I think the main thing is the cost catches people eyes, you won’t hear about the 99 that run fine but the 1 that fails will be everywhere
I have lost 2 of them on my wife's JSW...THAT is why
@marcmcbride3911 but that makes me wonder, where are you getting your fuel, what are your maintenance routines. I've owned plenty of CP4 vehicles, with no issue.
@123erikJohnstone maintenance routines? They are simply incompatible with U.S. diesel. They don't wear out. You just happen upon fuel that is slightly worse and the pump goes.
Cars are not supposed to require everything to be precise enough for a moon landing.
@marcmcbride3911 no, they shouldn't. But these cars do. As for maintenance, a good regular additive does wonders.
do you have a list of all your materials used? i would like to replicate what you did, it looks super clean
I seen a post awhile back about doing this. So I'll definitely be using this as a reference. Thanks for the video!
Great video. I'm getting ready to install the Whitbread kit on my 2014 Golf Tdi CJAA.
Where did you get it from? Thanks
I just snagged a vw cp4 pump from a 2011 tdi wagon this weekend. Everything is mint inside. Now I want to machine a clocking feature to prevent the roller from clocking.
I'm tempted to find a spare pump myself to try this. Been thinking about using a pin or keyway of some sort to stop it from turning in the bore.
I'm also glad that I found this video, I work on farm equipment too and was literally planning on doing exactly this with the cat filters and amazon mounts lol
I work on Deere primarily so it was a touch painful getting cat filters but you can beat the price and availability
@JoshsJettas I'm a first generation farmer, so we just buy and use whatever is cheapest, lol I have case, p&h, linkbelt, bobcat, allis chalmers etc. Whatever is cheap. 🤣
Amazing video. Going to do this to my brothers CJAA wagon as his was swapped with an unknown mileage one from a very rusted jetta. Thank you
Thanks for another great video Josh. I just ordered the kit and also plan to install the 2 micron filters. Keep up the great work.
Where did you get a kit? Link please
@@Tahoe0512He says it in the video. Whitebread performance.
@@hardcore4476 thank you
@@Tahoe0512 this is where I got it, just select your engine whitbreadperformance.com/products/3-0l-tdi-cp4-metering-valve-bypass-kit?variant=44741025923231
@@Tahoe0512 NP
The CP4 failures are so difficult to track and find a rough mileage frame, percentage chance, etc. Regardless, I've been looking at these kits since they dropped. I run additive, swap fuel filter more often than VW's rec, always check for metal shavings... Basically, any "you should" item, I'm doing it. I plan to eventually swap in a CP3 (next timing belt, so another 70k miles), but your point about having it to use in a different car/resell later is valid and has me re-thinking it again. This is supposed to be my forever car. Having to replace injectors, clean tank, etc wouldn't make me ditch the car either, but this would make my life easier and the kit is about the cost of one new injector.
It was the what if that convinced me, I’ve done a belt on a car with 550k km on original pump but my luck it’ll fail next month. Would make for good content but I’d rather not have to flush/replace the fuel system
Thanks for the video on this! Just stumbled across it 🍻!
Just FYI - I've never changed prices on the kits, my website adjusts price to native currency of your IP address. So if you're in Canada, it's in Canadian dollars.
No problem thanks for the great kit/tdi support.
That’s what it was, I must’ve seen the usd price at one time and when I went back when making the video it’s cad.
Defiently feel its more rare than online would have you believe...i owned a cjaa from new...its still going over 600kms now and its been malone stage 3.6 since 100k and ran hard..ran below fuel light nearly every tank...second one no issues at 226k either. My sister had one...and 3 or 4 of my buddies. The gf cjaa no issues either. I havent heard of one here in ontario personally. Still not a bad idea if you want to worry less...ive never worried...have a cata and a cnrb and no issues with them either and there both modded as well.
A buddy works at a shop outside Toronto and he said he’s seen 2, one on a Jetta and one on a Touareg. Although they believe fuel/fuel filter was the culprit. I wasn’t concerned too much but there’s been multiple times I’ve gotten in the car and my wife has driven it to 0 km to empty so I was concerned one of these times it’ll get a bunch of air and wreck it
Great video I’ve wanted to do something like this on my cjaa, I have a Cata I run cat filters on.
They’re cheap and everyone seems to love them
Ive noticed cp4 failures are more common in the U.S as opposed to Canada due to fuel quality
@@iceag3iscoming I have always used fuel additive year round so both have done well regardless of fuel supplier but the us does have poor quality fuel.
@@mikemiklavic1930 I'm in Canada but also use diesel kleen every fill up and change out the fuel filter every third oil change. It's keep my fuel system happy
@@iceag3iscoming I don’t doubt fuel quality has something to do with it but there’s a lot more cars down south then there is here in Canada
I'm actually going to be buying a 2015 with a failed pump this weekend.
last year i started using lubricity on every fill up
I've been doing it for years on mine. Brand new tranny fluid has detergents even regular car oil will work . 100 ml in every other fill up is fine. 400k km of racing my Jetta. Zero problems. It lubricates the whole system injectors and upper cylinder too.
Definitely a 10 on the cool factor
Does the stock fuel filter actually filter the return fuel? Or is it just passing through? Was thinking about using the cat fuel filter for pre pump and the 10 micron earls vapor guard for return.
Return isn’t filtered stock but I believe the internal part can redirect the return back into the supply in cold weather (thermal T on the older cars).
The filter that comes with the kit would make install a lot easier imo vs what I did.
Based on that extended crank would you say your fuel pump was pumping dry? I've always had my cjaa fire right up after filter changes but I also used the key method to prime, which apparently doesn't work. Three years ago I noticed a very very small amount of metal flake in the fuel filter but she's still running fine. I almost exclusively run Kwik Trip fuel and the filters are always clean. (crossed fingers)
It for sure had air in it still, I had that thought in my mind, I’m going to wreck this pump trying to save it. My sisters car had very small flakes in her ckra a few years ago and it’s still going strong, could’ve came from the gas station too.
This prevents the cam lobe and roller wear material from entering the rail & injectors. If the high pressure piston were to wear, that can still enter the system. One thing is unclear is how on earth does all the particles get through that dense steel mesh in that metering valve? From videos I’ve seen when the rail has been flushed there were lots of swarf and they were quite big and impossible that they passed through that mesh. Anyone know how the standard mesh fails to filter the filings?
That’s why I wanted to find a failed pump, I’ve got one here but not certain it had truly failed. I’m assuming small stuff starts making it through the mesh and chews up the piston which makes the larger chunks you find in the rail/lines, but that’s an assumption.
Hi Josh. I bought a Jetta cjaa used and have recently noticed a diesel leak under around the HPFP. Showing diesel below pump and spreading toward the timing belt cover. It looks as if it has been accumulating for some time.
105,000 mi.
Is there a common cause for this leak or should I expect the worst case scenario of failed pump?
No running issues or check engine light.
Anyone with insight your response would be much appreciated.
I was just rewatching this as I’m finally going to be doing this to my CJAA and noticed that you said the “shrapnel” goes through the bottom to the top into the rail and injectors. So this kit basically just prevents the debris from getting to the tank and redistributed?
Factory that is what happens, bottom end to top end then to the rail and injectors wrecking everything. With this kit it isolates the top end so bottom end just goes the to filter, top end is fed fresh fuel so when the pump fails your only replacing the pump and filter
I have the older version (previous manufacturer) of this kit that has many reports of leaks from the block. How is yours doing after a month?
The kits doing fine no leaks as of yet. One of my pipe fittings is leaking so I have to snug that up.
Hey if youre still looking for a failed pump, I think I still have mine from my CJAA Jetta!
Did it fill the metering valve with filings? If so I’d be interested
@JoshsJettas Oh boy did it!
If you find it send me an email joshthring21@live.ca
I got my plate a month ago, I may try installing it today, my passat with ckra looks to have room to add my cat filter infront of the oem filter so I can use both, I think a simple solution to know if my filter is plugging, a pressure switch to ground, run the wire and splice into my oil pressure switch wire, I think 50 psi should work, then if I ever have less than 50 between the cat filter and the cp4, my oil pressure warning would come on in the dash. Simple cheap and no need to add anything in the dash.
I've seen a post where a guy fit the second up front on a ckra. It would make it alot easier if it'll fit
@@JoshsJettas my base would not fit, I tried everywhere. Plans changed. I am going to put a 1r0749 where the def tank was. Just have to wrap it in insulation for winter.
@JoshsJettas I found a fuel heater, I already have an espar coolant heater, so if I run coolant lines and an extra pump to the back, I can mount a fuel heater before the filter, insulate the filter and should be fine. I think ill use a 1r0749 and be good for 200,000 miles.
Is there a way to add that fuel filter gauge that was apart of the kit that wasn't available anymore, that would be a cool and functional touch to the install?
That was in the back of my mind, the filter base has unused ports so it’s a matter of sourcing the gauge. I should look into it agajn
Trying to get additional email information on these parts and stuff
Hey! I’m hoping i can pick your brain a little bit. I have an EOC kit with tune and the Whitbread kit and am getting a limp mode issue on hard acceleration over 3500
The kit has arrived at my home now, but have not installed yet. I read today that several people are having issues after installing this kit. Have you heard of this?
I had seen a couple posts but the one already saw some metallic in the metering valve before installing the kit
That oil pressure light comes on my GLI and hearing it gave me ptsd
Where did you find the VCDS SOFTWARE @?
I was wondering if next filter change you could run a test of a better bleeding regimin. loosen a hose on the return filter and prime till fuel is there. the system then should be bled of air and primed at its best.
Put diesel in the entire filter then put it on that way all you’re doing is filling the lines instead of the filters which takes forever
@ I’m sticking with oem system plus obd2 prime function seems to be GTG for me on a v6 cnrb engine. I’d be hesitant with the fuel being contaminated when you fill filters instead of priming and filtering but your call. These fuel systems seem to be delicate with US fuel I’d rather not risk it IMHO . great video though
@ I work on heavy duty fire trucks and all other sorts of diesel engines and that’s how we do it and don’t have any problems
Hey, I'm ordering the CJAA Bypass kit from Whitbread ; could you please provide links for rest of the items needed?
Ill het that into the description tonight
@@JoshsJettas hey can you add the items
It's funny that we all test for leaks like looking for bullet holes on a person. wipe, look, wipe, look, etc..
The trick is to only do that with low pressure stuff, cardboard is a good substitute for your hand on high pressure leaks
Yet another great video! Love your “got lots of room back there” comments 😂. How much would you say you spent on this dual CAT filter setup in total?
It’s the perfect place for it. So in Canadian dollars along with our 13% sales tax it was $65 for 2 filters, $55 for the 2 filter heads, I think it was $15 for the brass fittings, maybe $5 in hose and clamps (I buy it in bulk).
So for future filter changes it’ll be $32 to replace the one pre-pump filter vs $55 for the stock vw one.
@@JoshsJettas ok great thanks! I work for CAT and I know my coworkers would get a kick out of this mod
@@willpost7857 not going to lie I used to work for a Deere dealer (that’s what I primarily work on independently too) so it pains me a bit but the cat filters are so common for trucks so the filters and filter heads were so cheap
@@JoshsJettas haha the feeling is mutual 😆 I appreciate the dialogue btw
@@JoshsJettasHi again! I have a question related to your CJAA EGR removal video (something I plan on doing soon). You mentioned 2 options for deleting the EGR cooler in the rear: one by simply adding the blocker plate; and the other by removing the cooler and sealing the bottom of the turbo. Is there I really advantage to this or would the simpler way work just fine? Thanks, I’d really appreciate your input 👍
did you ever remedy the heater coolant pluging the heater core the dealer flushed mine twice with new cores i get some heat now but not a lot
Needs to be thoroughly flushed, my favourite way was bypass the heater core and run it awhile with rad flush. Flush multiple times before installing the new heater core. Follow that up with running HD diesel specific coolant (John Deere/Cummins/cat) and I’ve had good luck. Other option would be removing the cooler and related parts.
Hey josh, does the whitbread bypass work for the cvca engine code? I figured it would but i dont see the kit on his website for it.
No the cvca/crua use a different pump which are supposed to be built better
@JoshsJettas well I can tell you right now, that my cvca pump is dying at 200k right now. And I ordered this whole set up yesterday to do this including the whitbread piece (fml). I did find a used pump with 66k for 275$ though rather than 800-1200.
@plainandsimple1 I had seen a post that mentioned they were coming out with a kit for the 15’s soon but didn’t specify how soon is “soon”
Hey @josh’s jetta’s, I attempted to install metering valve bypass yesterday along with a new filter, and I don’t have vcds or anything so I went and jumped the pumps, after a certain amount of time, I was able to start the car and it seemed to run well, however, a short time later (maybe half an hour) me and my wife went to the store and when we came back out to go Home, we got in, went a short distance and then it died with a flashing glow plug light and read low rail pressure when hooked up to scanner, is it possible that I didn’t bleed out all the air and trashed the hpfp? When I get time this afternoon I’m gonna attempt to undo everything that I did with new continental 5/16” fuel line and see if i can get it running again, but I’m fairly afraid I may have grenaded my pump.
Also, used white lithium grease to stick the o ring to the metering valve plate, is it possible that it got hot, broke down and clogged an injector/contaminated pump?
@davidlayton2137 I would think the grease would break down and be fine, I use that quite often. I’d try to thoroughly bleed it and try it, make sure none of the o rings got pinched or sliced.
I had no issues but it was in the back of my mind about splitting the supply fuel up if there’s a possibility of low supply pressure. Mine seems fine and that’s why I including taking it for some spirited driving while watching rail pressure
any luck?
Great stuff Josh. I’m going to order the block for my CJAA. I already have the cat filter and filter head. The parts have been sitting in my shop for 4 years since I could never find room to mount it. I’m going to steal your idea and mount it where the Dpf once lived.
Any concern about heat coming off the elbow for the down pipe?
I did think about it, no doubt it’ll get some heat soak but there’s a fair bit of air gap between the pipe and filter. I think enough fuel goes through there it won’t make a big difference, worse case some header wrap could help.
Do you need to run 2 CAT filters or do you think that 1 filter will be sufficient in the event of a failure?
Depends on what your trying to achieve. The one filter is filtering pre-pump and one is filter post-pump. The post-pump filter should catch all the filings so factory pre pump filter and cat post pump filter should work.
My thought is the factory is a 10 micron filter vs the cat 2 micron so theres a possibility of the cat filter clogging with stuff the factory filter didn’t catch.
Any issues so far???? What interval are you going to change the main filter at??
No issues other then a seeping pipe fitting. I’m undecided, these filters are designed for diesels which consume a boatload more fuel then these little TDI’s. I’ll probably double the oem interval but more frequent won’t hurt
@@JoshsJettas do you think both filters would have fit in the front if you used 1/2”npt to 6an bungs. And then 90 degree 6an fittings in the lines?
@cueballsi they would have to be tight adapters but i think so
The diesel quality in the USA compared to Europe is very poor,,It lacks the lubrication EU diesel has,,I highly recommend putting dipetain in your diesel ,,
Im in Canada so we have better fuel, I still run a bit of hotshots edt in it
how would you do it if you did a single cat filter?
CVCA, I don’t see a kit for, is this 2015 cp4.2? good enough to not worry about?
I believe they’re coming out with a kit shortly
Hi Josh, how often will you change the main fuel filter?
I’m thinking similar intervals, it may be a larger filter but it is finer as well so in theory should clog quicker
Hey so I have the tunezilla pro. If I download VCDS could I use the tunezilla connector to prime the fuel system?
No vcds requires they’re specific dongle
Do you think doing this makes a long term fix to not need to do a CP3 swap, or do you think this is just a fail safe and the CJAA CP4 should still be swapped regardless?
The bypass kit is a fail safe, won’t prevent it from failing. The filters not going to hurt but I think the main reasons they fail are mis/poor fuel, lack of fuel/aeration or just internal failure. I personally don’t think the fail rate is high enough to swap to a cp3 on a relatively stock car (stage 2-3 included), but with the bypass kit installed and it does fail that would be the time to upgrade (saves repairing the rest of the system).
Josh I think my ccv diaphragm has failed and is pushing oil into the turbo intake. Have you heard of this?
This one puts a little bit of oil into the intake, as long as oil consumption isn’t bad I wouldn’t get too worried. The ccv is built into the valve cover so the entire thing needs to be replaced.
i LOVED IT! wHERE DID YOU BUY THIS KIT?
Bypass kit from whitbread performance, filter heads from Amazon, cat filters from local cat dealer. Hoses and fitting are just automotive parts
@@JoshsJettas thanks a lot for your time
Where can i find the kit?? Great vid
Whitbread sells the metering block or the entire kit. If wanting cat filters your going to have to source stuff separately
Am I looking at that wrong or would all that junk still go into your fuel rails and injectors
It’s the bottom end of the pump that fails, in stock form the bottom end fuel is routed to the top which wrecks the pump and sends junk to the injectors. With this bypass kit and junk from the bottom end leaves to pump and gets caught at the second filter. Only fresh fuel enters the top which goes to the injectors
I have an alh and want to put a cjaa inline pump on it instead of a bew intank pump. anyone have any thoughts?
It’s higher pressure (I think 70psi?), I’d be afraid of blowing pump seals with out a pressure regulator
Unless you are running Malone stage4+ or something unusual; you shouldn't have any reason to push more fuel then the factory 11mm impeller can handle. Afaik. My alh only made 300ish ft lbs though so I could be wrong
@@hitm4n1985 I have the 10mm pump but tbh its not about power i want to help the pump when i run heavy stuff like waste oil.
@@JoshsJettas wow really? i may have to see about something to lower it then.
The traditional bew lift pump is a popular upgrade and runs around 5-8 psi. Just need to wire up a relay.
Links for parts?
How does it deal with water in fuel
There’s no water separator on these, I’m sure there’s a cat filter that does have one built in
So if my cjaa has metal flake but still runs great can i use this method when i swap to cp3 instead of washing the tank out
If installing the bypass kit and return filter you should be good (that’s what I’m hoping for atleast). Assuming the injectors haven’t eaten to much metal so far.
I love my TDI but damn... I think I should have just bought a gas Toyota. lol... But I do love working on new things so here goes nothing. Things I guess I got to do... Change timing belt, Add Cat filter conversion, delete DPF/EGR... I feel like this car is never done.
I tried knocking out all the repairs at once on this thing but there’s still stuff I missed or didn’t know about
I own a 2014 vw golf tdi manual with the cjaa engine. Anyone else been struggling with engine stuttering/surge around 1600-2000 rpms light throttle. It’s been a slow building issue that has gotten much worse over a year now. So bad to the point it now has thrown multiple misfire codes p0300 misfires on cylinders 2-4.
Any torque difference codes? The Passats get that when it’s time for injectors, also will have a knocking sound
@@JoshsJettasIs there any way to check injectors in VCDS? No torque difference codes have been thrown. Just the P0300 on one occasion and the detected misfires on cylinders 2-4 a few days after. I Have been data logging in VCDS. It immediately starts surging/stumbling every time as a massive spike in the MAF occurs. Also note worthy I suspect the EGR system since just recently I unplugged the ASV right before the high pressure egr valve in the intake. Then drove it for a few days data logging, and it ran perfectly without any of the MAF spikes too. Also quieted down the engine injection/knock sound quite a bit. I have replaced the MAF, cleaned out the intake egr valve, and tried a brand new ASV too but still no luck fixing the issue. Lastly, it also hiccups/misfires intermittently on start ups too. Any suggestions of what to check next would be great!
Have you heard of any one getting error codes or going into limp mode for this mod?
I haven’t, although this specific bypass kit has only been out for real long (I think whitbread has only had it for a few months, previously another shop maybe a year but they weren’t big into TDI’s). That’s why I wanted to check and watch rail pressure afterwards to make sure the pump wasn’t doing anything weird.
I have a failed pump if you wanna buy it for the price of the core charge
start using 2 stroke oil and you never have problems with cp4.
It gets edt lubricity additive somewhat often. I’m not to worried on it
did you kno that the industry standard testing is no longer 2 micron. its 4 micron. those are no longer 2 micron. just a heads up. :)
no longer such thing as a 2 micron absolute anymore. had to clarify.
I’ll have to edit that, I did notice the Donaldson cross reference filters were advertised as 3 or 4 micron. I’ll probably switch to them on the next interval, had to use the Cat filters for the thumbnail
Hey man! I have a couple of stupid questions I wanna bug you about - do you have anywhere I can message you directly!
Cheers, Ty
Hey send me an email, joshthring21@live.ca
Have a cp4 for you if you pay for shipping
It failed as in filings everywhere? If so send me an email joshthring21@live.ca
2015s... whose got a one for that
I believe those have a different style cp4 less prone to failure? I don’t have much experience with them
I have a failed cp4 lol
Wanna ship it? If so did it really fail as in full of glitter?
Yes, the cost is 10,000, did regular filter changes. Metal gets sent back to fuel tank, injectors, it's 10 grand. Solution. Dump new vw diesels .
The repair kit for the entire fuel system is $3.2k, but I’d imagine labour would start adding up. This kit should contain it to the pump only so should be considerably less
I may have a failed pump! Message me back?