Thanks for the review. Six years later this item is still hard to find on Amazon. It really seems to fill a gap over the MGEHR holders that have very shallow depth limitations. While some comments say to buy better it's hard for the home hobbyist to justify the cost of the high end tooling. Recently I saw a Joe Pie video on parting at much higher speeds that most of us have been taught. I agreed with his assessment that it's a little scary the first few times but once you get used to it, it works very well. Long curls become chips in some materials and chip evacuation is much better.
I have bought a few tools from Accusize, the quality of their tools like end mills, tool holders, etc. is above average, their prices are very reasonable and their customer service is excellent. overall I have no regrets.
Hello Dudley, I bought the same tooling from Banggood but with their search engine it is a pain to get the inserts to match the blade and the blade to match the holder so this is more convenient. I have found that when the insert snaps it tends to damage the holder on the tiny ridge that positions the insert. The double ended inserts and blade don't really give an advantage as when one end goes it is worthless because its length gives it position and grip. I never had much success with the wedge style HSS and a variety of blade shapes. One reason was the blade tended to slip back in the holder against the wedge when the cutting was heavy. Good review. Take care. Doug
Great feedback and interesting. Thanks for sharing. I love to hear feedback from others. The tests I did hardly compare to daily usage, so I have no idea if the holder will last or not. Thanks again.
I am a big fan of Accusize as well. I have several of their sets of tools. The last one I bought is in a totally different case that is black and seems to be very durable. Thanks for the review/demo.
I've been working on some much needed cleaning so I can put together a shop tour and go over some of my smaller projects done around the shop. I like the format plus the extra on the grinder.
Sometimes you get a pup because the parted off part is wobbling at that time, so the blade moves away from the fixed part, and towards the loose part that’s wobbling, as it no longer provides support. This happens more if the blade is ever so slightly a tiny fraction of a degree, angled towards the loose part. This happens in material that wobbles the most when almost through, normally softer material. I use the thinnest blade I can get away with. It makes a major improvement in tool pressure.
There has to be tool pressure springing the tool downward. Thus, changing the center line of the tool on part. I have found setting tool height on cut off tools is mostly trial and error. For me more Error. LOL
I am glad to help. When it come to parting I use several different tools. I use the blade type fro deeper cuts and I use the all in one holders for smaller stuff like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/MGEHR-1212-2-Lathe-Grooving-Tool-Holder-Cut-Off-10Pcs-MGMN200-Carbide-Inserts/322795074772?hash=item4b2815f4d4:g:KQEAAOSwykVZz9Mc Be warned though, this type of parting/grooving tool is rather delicate and they break easily.
You had a lot of stickout with the blade with the Inconel, always throttle up the parting tool to have the least stickout possible at all times. Perhaps too, soluble oil instead of cutting oil, no smoke that way. Good review, thanks for showing it.For better results when parting off copper, is CONTINUOUS Flood Coolant, or even Kerosene.
for that price you can buy a karloy blade with inserts i had accusize and tryed to part 1-3/4 304 stainless broke both ends in 5 min the shars one lasted 20 or so parts the karloy i got 100 or so part offs no problems and im only on insert number 2. maybe accusize changed the blades now you seemed to have good luck with your cuts. thanks for sharing
Thanks for the feedback. I know that some of these vendors have more than one source (like Harbor Freight) for tools and perhaps I got lucky or you unlucky...
I always recommend two things: a lot of coolant, index your blade. Coolant because this kind of operation generate a lot of heat, and in turn temperature will soften the holder. Indexing because a conical shape will push longitudinally the insert out of his place.
I use it often and it seems to work quite well. It has saved me from doing a bunch of test cuts. I have a video on how I made it if you are interested: th-cam.com/video/iNhQYFsou1Y/w-d-xo.html
I need *something* like this. All I have is a cobalt steel blade in my 11/16" Phase II holder. It is mounted at an angle, so every time I change the stick-out, I have to set the height.
Nice video, but why so slow? I would have run the brass and aluminium at 3000rpm using the same Kennametal parting tool you have with the 1.6mm wide insert. This is in my small cnc lathe. Feed I would have at around 0.0015"/rev. I would run others more slowly, but much faster than you did. Carbide tends to like speed.
More speed would have been good. I was running at 1100 rpm and my lathe goes to 1800. I have a 10 inch 4 jaw chuck on there, so max rpm is a bit spooky. I should have switched to my 5c collet chuck and then gone full rpm. My feed rate was one over the smalled at 0.0022"/rev the lowest is 0.002"/rev. I really appreciate the advise.
Dudley Toolwright sorry it was never my intention to imply that your 10 inch chuck should be run at high speed, it is just that the collet work art the start just seemed so slow. I agree regarding the 10 inch though, for myself I would find anything above 800 a bit scary.
I was not sure that you did. I know that smaller diameter parts need to be turned faster to get the same SFPM. I was too lazy to remove the 4-jaw and put in the collet chuck. You comments were well received and made perfect sense. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out.
Do you find the holder to keep the blade vertical and aligned properly? Some blade holders cause the blade to tilt side ways when you tighten. Thank you.
The -3 and -4 on the blades indicate the thickness in mm of the inserts. The inserts are SP200, SP300 and SP400 for 2, 3 and 4 mm respectively. I hate these tools, they’ll snap on you every chance they get ...
Thanks for that. Very useful info and I like the report about longevity. I primarily use a Kennametal parting tool, so I don't know how fragile they are.
Thanks for watching. I think, so far, it works better than expected. If other TH-camrs are to be believed, the cheap versions of this type of holder get very loose. Perhaps, this one is from a different manufacturer. The problem is that a lot of Chinese tools are rebranded. Time will definitely tell.
Have you seen Steve Jordan's modification to similar cutoff insert holders? th-cam.com/video/2p83pw0UQOA/w-d-xo.html It's not near the top of my List, but eventually I plan on making a much 'deeper' insert holder from tool steel, in effect having Steve's reinforced holder in one solid piece.
Dudley Toolwright I didn’t think to search on ‘cut-off tool’ instead of ‘parting tool’. Thanks. I have to say that I prefer the blade holder with integral QCTP dovetails for rigidity. Thanks for another nice video.
I was a bit confused by that as well. Strangely it stuck in my head and when I first was going to name my video, I was going to use, "cut off tool" until I read what I wrote.
22 minutes and not one mention of the widths of the different tools?! I use 3 and 4 mm but have now also bought 2mm and it is very nice for my old and worn lathe with lower tool pressure and thereby less chatter.
Parting off free machining stainless at 8.5 m/min. That is a joke! I'm doing stuff like this all day long. Free machining steel at 140 m/min and a feed of 0.12 mm/rev. That would be 3000 rpm with your 15 mm diameter. Aluminium even faster. 42CrMo4 QT at 100 m/min and 0.1 mm/rev. Thousands of parts with one single insert. 42CrMo4 is 708M40 or 1.7225 or Mo40 in the quenched and tempered state. Mitsubishi inserts and blade.
I would be very wary purchasing machine tooling which has instructions or marking expressed in cm’s. It is very rare for cm’s to be used for anything engineering / mechanical / construction.. millimetres or just metres are usually used.. dressmakers etc use cm’s !
Interesting observation. I think you are correct, in that it is very uncommon to see the centi- prefix used in in machining. However there is a standard SI set of units: CGS - which is centimeter, gram, second. True, that this set of units has been mostly replaced by MKS -meter, kilogram, second, but CGS is just older. Still, I do think you made a very interesting observation. Thanks.
Fair point, but Iscar parting bars are several times more expensive and sometimes, for some people, that could be a deal breaker. I do get where you are coming from though.
@@DudleyToolwright I agree, if you are going to use it once or twice then obviously go with the cheap one. The cheap ones have a tendency of loosening over time and letting go of the inserts.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 85 | คู่เอก "ยอดเหล็กเพชร vs ผึ้งหลวง"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qq_19bnnxEo/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks I just got one of these and am anxious to give it a shot, I like that you let everyone know the speeds you are using very informative.
I hope it works out for you. I have used mine recently and it has worked better than expected every time.
Thanks for the review. Six years later this item is still hard to find on Amazon. It really seems to fill a gap over the MGEHR holders that have very shallow depth limitations. While some comments say to buy better it's hard for the home hobbyist to justify the cost of the high end tooling.
Recently I saw a Joe Pie video on parting at much higher speeds that most of us have been taught. I agreed with his assessment that it's a little scary the first few times but once you get used to it, it works very well. Long curls become chips in some materials and chip evacuation is much better.
I agree on every level.
I have bought a few tools from Accusize, the quality of their tools like end mills, tool holders, etc. is above average, their prices are very reasonable and their customer service is excellent. overall I have no regrets.
Thanks for the additional feedback. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your experiences.
Hello Dudley, I bought the same tooling from Banggood but with their search engine it is a pain to get the inserts to match the blade and the blade to match the holder so this is more convenient. I have found that when the insert snaps it tends to damage the holder on the tiny ridge that positions the insert. The double ended inserts and blade don't really give an advantage as when one end goes it is worthless because its length gives it position and grip. I never had much success with the wedge style HSS and a variety of blade shapes. One reason was the blade tended to slip back in the holder against the wedge when the cutting was heavy. Good review. Take care. Doug
Great feedback and interesting. Thanks for sharing. I love to hear feedback from others. The tests I did hardly compare to daily usage, so I have no idea if the holder will last or not. Thanks again.
I am a big fan of Accusize as well. I have several of their sets of tools. The last one I bought is in a totally different case that is black and seems to be very durable. Thanks for the review/demo.
Interesting note, thanks.
I've been working on some much needed cleaning so I can put together a shop tour and go over some of my smaller projects done around the shop. I like the format plus the extra on the grinder.
Thanks for the thoughts. I enjoyed the process. It was a bit freeform.
Sometimes you get a pup because the parted off part is wobbling at that time, so the blade moves away from the fixed part, and towards the loose part that’s wobbling, as it no longer provides support. This happens more if the blade is ever so slightly a tiny fraction of a degree, angled towards the loose part. This happens in material that wobbles the most when almost through, normally softer material.
I use the thinnest blade I can get away with. It makes a major improvement in tool pressure.
Excellent tip. Thanks for the insight.
There has to be tool pressure springing the tool downward. Thus, changing the center line of the tool on part. I have found setting tool height on cut off tools is mostly trial and error. For me more Error. LOL
Thanks I make brass tools for making 22rf accurate. You solved my parting problems.
I am glad to help. When it come to parting I use several different tools. I use the blade type fro deeper cuts and I use the all in one holders for smaller stuff like this one:
www.ebay.com/itm/MGEHR-1212-2-Lathe-Grooving-Tool-Holder-Cut-Off-10Pcs-MGMN200-Carbide-Inserts/322795074772?hash=item4b2815f4d4:g:KQEAAOSwykVZz9Mc
Be warned though, this type of parting/grooving tool is rather delicate and they break easily.
Great review. Thank you for sharing. Looks like it preformed very well. Excellent video. Thank you
Thanks for the feedback. Always appreciated.
You had a lot of stickout with the blade with the Inconel, always throttle up the parting tool to have the least stickout possible at all times. Perhaps too, soluble oil instead of cutting oil, no smoke that way. Good review, thanks for showing it.For better results when parting off copper, is CONTINUOUS Flood Coolant, or even Kerosene.
Thanks for the tips. I really appreciate people taking their valuable time to share their insights.
Very useful thank you. Seems like a good kit. Cheers
Thanks. It was better than I expected, but not as good as a big brand, like Kennametal.
Very impressive! Wonderful! Thank you very much!
Thanks for the comments and inspiration.
for that price you can buy a karloy blade with inserts i had accusize and tryed to part 1-3/4 304 stainless broke both ends in 5 min the shars one lasted 20 or so parts the karloy i got 100 or so part offs no problems and im only on insert number 2. maybe accusize changed the blades now you seemed to have good luck with your cuts. thanks for sharing
Thanks for the feedback. I know that some of these vendors have more than one source (like Harbor Freight) for tools and perhaps I got lucky or you unlucky...
I always recommend two things: a lot of coolant, index your blade.
Coolant because this kind of operation generate a lot of heat, and in turn temperature will soften the holder.
Indexing because a conical shape will push longitudinally the insert out of his place.
I like that height adjuster.
I use it often and it seems to work quite well. It has saved me from doing a bunch of test cuts. I have a video on how I made it if you are interested:
th-cam.com/video/iNhQYFsou1Y/w-d-xo.html
I need *something* like this. All I have is a cobalt steel blade in my 11/16" Phase II holder. It is mounted at an angle, so every time I change the stick-out, I have to set the height.
You know, I never thought about the angle mounted styles, very interesting observation about the height change. Obvious after you said it. Thanks.
For 42 years all I ever did was face off the end until the tit was gone and it always worked
Fair enough. There is more than one way to solve a problem. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Nice video, but why so slow? I would have run the brass and aluminium at 3000rpm using the same Kennametal parting tool you have with the 1.6mm wide insert. This is in my small cnc lathe. Feed I would have at around 0.0015"/rev. I would run others more slowly, but much faster than you did. Carbide tends to like speed.
More speed would have been good. I was running at 1100 rpm and my lathe goes to 1800. I have a 10 inch 4 jaw chuck on there, so max rpm is a bit spooky. I should have switched to my 5c collet chuck and then gone full rpm. My feed rate was one over the smalled at 0.0022"/rev the lowest is 0.002"/rev. I really appreciate the advise.
Dudley Toolwright sorry it was never my intention to imply that your 10 inch chuck should be run at high speed, it is just that the collet work art the start just seemed so slow. I agree regarding the 10 inch though, for myself I would find anything above 800 a bit scary.
I was not sure that you did. I know that smaller diameter parts need to be turned faster to get the same SFPM. I was too lazy to remove the 4-jaw and put in the collet chuck. You comments were well received and made perfect sense. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out.
Do you find the holder to keep the blade vertical and aligned properly? Some blade holders cause the blade to tilt side ways when you tighten. Thank you.
It seems to. I have only used this parting tool a few times and so far so good.
also because you did not use the tool to install the bit, the bit is not centered. i can see it slightly off.
Good catch, thanks.
The -3 and -4 on the blades indicate the thickness in mm of the inserts. The inserts are SP200, SP300 and SP400 for 2, 3 and 4 mm respectively.
I hate these tools, they’ll snap on you every chance they get ...
Thanks for that. Very useful info and I like the report about longevity. I primarily use a Kennametal parting tool, so I don't know how fragile they are.
Great QTR. I would definitely part with some money, for this parting tool.
Thanks for watching. I think, so far, it works better than expected. If other TH-camrs are to be believed, the cheap versions of this type of holder get very loose. Perhaps, this one is from a different manufacturer. The problem is that a lot of Chinese tools are rebranded. Time will definitely tell.
What is your model of machine
It is this: acramachinery.com/product/1440te-precision-gap-bed-engine-lathe/
I think US Customs is rough with packaging. Assuming this seller is in Canada, which I believe it is.
I agree completely, but I bought this from Amazon and received it 2nd day, so I doubt that it came from Canada directly. Thanks for the comment.
your probably right. lol
Ya never know. It was a great observation that Accusize comes from Canada. It actually did not occur to me until you mentioned it. Cheers.
That's why i'm incannel you use Is ceramic inserts
I have very little experience with ceramics, but I do understand they excel at really hard materials, but are poor with interrupted cuts.
Nice review thanks.
Thanks for letting me know. Hope it helped. Cheers.
Have you seen Steve Jordan's modification to similar cutoff insert holders?
th-cam.com/video/2p83pw0UQOA/w-d-xo.html
It's not near the top of my List, but eventually I plan on making a much 'deeper' insert holder from tool steel, in effect having Steve's reinforced holder in one solid piece.
Thanks for the tip and link. I will check it out.
What’s the product code on that Accusize kit? I can’t seem to find it on Amazon. Thanks.
No problem: part number is 2410-0013 and a link
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019G5FBZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheers.
Dudley Toolwright I didn’t think to search on ‘cut-off tool’ instead of ‘parting tool’. Thanks. I have to say that I prefer the blade holder with integral QCTP dovetails for rigidity. Thanks for another nice video.
I was a bit confused by that as well. Strangely it stuck in my head and when I first was going to name my video, I was going to use, "cut off tool" until I read what I wrote.
Too all you machine heads out their, stay. The hell away from scamazon!!!!!!!!
Sound advise.
22 minutes and not one mention of the widths of the different tools?! I use 3 and 4 mm but have now also bought 2mm and it is very nice for my old and worn lathe with lower tool pressure and thereby less chatter.
You make a great point thanks.
Parting off free machining stainless at 8.5 m/min. That is a joke!
I'm doing stuff like this all day long. Free machining steel at 140 m/min and a feed of 0.12 mm/rev. That would be 3000 rpm with your 15 mm diameter. Aluminium even faster.
42CrMo4 QT at 100 m/min and 0.1 mm/rev. Thousands of parts with one single insert. 42CrMo4 is 708M40 or 1.7225 or Mo40 in the quenched and tempered state.
Mitsubishi inserts and blade.
I have read recently that parting blades work much better going fast. Live and learn.
I would be very wary purchasing machine tooling which has instructions or marking expressed in cm’s. It is very rare for cm’s to be used for anything engineering / mechanical / construction.. millimetres or just metres are usually used.. dressmakers etc use cm’s !
Interesting observation. I think you are correct, in that it is very uncommon to see the centi- prefix used in in machining. However there is a standard SI set of units: CGS - which is centimeter, gram, second. True, that this set of units has been mostly replaced by MKS -meter, kilogram, second, but CGS is just older. Still, I do think you made a very interesting observation. Thanks.
Just spemd the money and buy iscar, and buy it once.
Fair point, but Iscar parting bars are several times more expensive and sometimes, for some people, that could be a deal breaker. I do get where you are coming from though.
@@DudleyToolwright I agree, if you are going to use it once or twice then obviously go with the cheap one. The cheap ones have a tendency of loosening over time and letting go of the inserts.
You make a great point. To be honest, I use a different parting tool for most situations, so I haven't tested longevity at all.