How to Build a Premium Guitar Cable
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Do you want to know how to make a high quality guitar cable at a fraction of the price?
Well, you're in luck because today we're building an awesome guitar cable so watch and learn!
What you'll need:
- 1x length of unbalance instrument cable
- 2x male ¼” (6.3mm) mono phone plugs
- 1x an equal or slightly greater length of Techflex
What I'm using:
- Mogami W2425 - Bulk Guitar Cable
- Neutrik NP2X-B - 2 pole 1/4" phone plug (amzn.to/2IxTJ9F)
- Alex Tech - 1/4" Flexo PET Braided Sleeving (amzn.to/2uMIW9y)
- Wire Cutter (amzn.to/2Iw44Tg)
- Wire Stripper (amzn.to/2Iw46dQ)
- Spudgers (amzn.to/2GZxtYY)
- Soldering Iron (amzn.to/2EokuL0)
- Scissors (amzn.to/2uXzznB)
- Pliers (amzn.to/2Iu7ru8)
- Gaffer's Tape (amzn.to/2uQ2n19)
- AmazonBasics Washcloth (amzn.to/2Jk5j9j)
- Liquid Rosin Flux (amzn.to/2ErFXD2)
- Solder (amzn.to/2EoyoN6)
- Gator/Croc Clip stand (amzn.to/2H74nqQ)
- Heatgun (amzn.to/2qdkvxj)
- Silicon Mat (amzn.to/2Juitk2)
My Friends Awesome Website: Board Game Discover (boardgamediscov...)
Let me know what else you'd like to see. I have a dozen or so more videos in the pipeline so please Click SUBSCRIBE to help support this channel.
Remember: don't be fool by snake oil spewing companies that want you to believe you need to spend a small fortune for premium cables.
Disclaimer: My parts links are affiliate links.
Nice video - you make it look easy
LOL, thanks. That was 2 weeks, off and on, in totality - most of which was editing and V/Os. But, with that said, making the cable was fairly easy. If only I could just do it and someone else edit it...🤔
Why did you cut the raw cable so long, and then just cut most of it off to leave one inch. You had already cut off your oxidized length.
noticed that too. lots of cutting. could just measure it first and then go from there.
It was mentioned “in case you mess up you have plenty to work with”.
@@ESPonMe he had enough spare there to cock up and try again 13 times
@@ESPonMe but what if you mess up and cut too deep? then youve wasted that nuch cable
Waste a lot of material.
🤙🏽
You’re not supposed to tighten it that much you should’ve clipped the plug finder. The part that touched the jack has a piece that’s meant to cut off if you’re using thicker cables like instrument cables
TIL, thank you. That wasn't specified in their instructions (online). I'll try that next time.
@@JackofAllTech No problem. I hope I can save you even a fraction of the time it took me to figure that out
Instead of putting tape all over my plugs, I have clips for my helping hands which have heat shrink tubing on each jaw
good looking cable, carefully chosen materials but even though solder joints look shiny and good their not well made.
Thank you. 🙂
With regards to the cable, I can assure you they are. I hung a 5 pound weight from it once. I know it’s done contrary to convention but that was done this way on purpose. I believe I mention that in the video.
@@JackofAllTech "I know it’s done contrary to convention but that was done this way on purpose" But why? this is going to fail a lot sooner that way. Otherwise everything else was great.
Performance Audio is a good place to get Mogami by the foot. Also Neutrix connectors. AND the Spectraflex although few colors. Thanks for the video. Great help. Ignore the nasayers.
Thanks for the tip! And thanks for the support. I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
You really should heat your surfaces before adding solder. You don’t get the same bond by just dabbing for a tiny second on large metal pieces like a guitar jack.
This is true. He is using flux though which really helps with cold joints.
you waste so much cable
dude, what are you doing there? :}
that iron tip is immaculate, and i can appreciate that, but your tutorial is more about being ocd than technique in making a proper cable..
jokes aside, that's a neat looking cable. great use of the flux.
ps: the signal wire should always be a tiny longer than the grounding wire, so that it's never under tension.
haha, I have be known to be OCD. 😉
Thanks for the tip.
i feel like you can do this with abit less time if you put the braided sleeving and the booth before sodering (kinda like you did for the other end). it makes people less confuse since they just have to repeat the same thing. also why you waste so much material? i dont think you need to cut that long for the oxydise part and you should just measure the aprox leght to stip instead of wasting a good amount of cable there.
Thanks for the tip!
As for the length, agreed. I believe I mentioned that the extra length is good for folks who are new to this sort of thing - just in case they make a mistake.
The cable does matter, but how about the cable plugs, does a 50cent plugs make a difference than the 3$ plugs ?
That’s a very good question. The Wirecutter had a review on plugs a while back. In it they took measurements, and if I recall correctly, the difference was negligible between a “premium” plug and a Monoprice plug. A slight increase in cable run length had greater measurable impact than did the plugs. Unfortunately, it seems that article is down right now but if it resurfaces I’ll link it.
@@JackofAllTech thanks!! I've been looking everywhere for someone who talk about cable plugs but can't seem to find one, 3$ seems unexpensive for cable plug but when you make a lot for making a pedalboard patch cable, it does adds up.
Bad soldering technique, trying to drip the solder onto its destination?
I’m very well aware it contrary to convention. It’s all done this way for a reason. I believe I point it out in the video. Finally, and most importantly, it’s a clean solder joint (nice and shiny). I’ve weight tested it. Thanks for the feedback.
@@JackofAllTech Whatever floats your boat, buddy.
Yes, exactly. You are supposed to heat the metal and then apply the solder to the part of the wire that does not have the solder or gun applied to it. That way you know the raw wire is hot enough to melt the solder and you are ensured that the wire has plenty of heat to allow full penetration of molten solder to all of the wire. I have found that tinning and re-tinning the gun helps with fast heat transfer to the wire so that you don't overheat things inside the wire or connector.
0:33 seconds in and you said 2425 not 2524
You are correct sir! I’m dyslexic - it’s a struggle sometimes. 🙂
How much do you paid for the techflex?
I've been making my own cables for years. I use the black and gold Neutrik plugs, straight on one end and right angle on the other for maximum versatility. I use Canare GS-4 cable because I don't like thick cables.
Yep, this video is for those that want that premium look but don’t want to spend lots of $£¥€. Doesn’t sound like you’d be the right target audience and that’s okay.
With that said, all that really matters in the end is a good quality cable and the right gauge for your run - everything else is either cosmetic or snake oil. 🙂
@@JackofAllTech I play bass in jazz combos and big bands and I'm seated behind a music stand with a big stack of music. My cables are 10 feet or less. I have a couple of 6mm Mogami cables also and neither I nor anyone else can hear the slightest difference between the Canare and the Mogami. They have the same construction except that the Canare is thinner. The signal is millivolts so it doesn't matter. What does matter are the plugs. Neutrik is the way to go and Switchcraft plugs are pure garbage. If you take care of your cables and don't leave them on the floor they will last for years. Also, teckflex coverings are a problem when playing with brass/wind instruments. There is a lot of liquid on the floor and it would be nasty to clean them.
Well then we’re in agreement because I’m endorsing Neutrik plugs in my video. 😉
The real problem with Techflex is microphonics - particular with instruments with pickups. I prefer a naked cable myself.
how's the cable holding up? does the techflex slip?
So far so good. Pretty happy with it still. ☺️
Great Video, very informative easy to follow.
Thank you!
Great video, very well presented !!
Thank you! 🙂I’m glad you liked it.
I was wondering best way to do this. Glad I found it 👍
I’m glad you did too. 😉
Why waste so much cable?
Hi! These videos are for novice who may have never done this before. I usually call out that I’m going to cut more than they’ll need as an example so if the mess up they can cut off the mistake and start again.
What's your experience with that soldering station? It seems it is the X-Tronic. It has a s%÷t load of good reviews but has some bad reviews and I would like to read some personal experience before buying.
As for the video, tyvm. I've been thinking about investing in equipment to build my own cables. Your video not only refreshed a few techniques but gave me a push I needed.
Thanks for the kind word and I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
As for the soldering station, I’ve used it a couple of dozen times. The highlights are: it’s been reliable so far, heats up fast and is relatively inexpensive compared to what pros use. My criticisms would be: it’s feels a bit cheap. The base station is plastic-y so not sure how it would hold up to abuse. The iron itself feels solid. Fortunately for me I’m a super careful and gentle with all me gear so thing tend to not break for me.
For homemade plumbuses, always push your dinglebop through a grumbo so your fleeb doesn't fill up with its own juice.
Great video. White size techflex do you recommend? the cable i'd like to use has 6,8mm diameter.
I would go with the 1/4” (6.35mm). Techflex expands a great deal.
@@JackofAllTech Thanks a lot!
...a hammer, 2 chain saws, a snow shovel, and a bicycle pump...
will 1/4" techflex work with mogami 2319? i know 2319 is a bit smaller but i cant find any concrete numbers
Nice video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the kind words.
This video was very hootiya
Thank you.
Nice detailed video
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
Nice demo! Good job.
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
What does Male and female means for the cables? ;)
Best one
Thank you. 🙂
Thank you
You’re very welcome! 🙂
Very well done. Thanks.
You’re very welcome! I’m glad you enjoyed it. Let me know if you have any suggestions for future videos. 🙂
Hey thanks for the video. Do you or anyone else know a UK dealer for the Mogami w2524 cable?
Unfortunately, no. The Amazon UK link is currently dead: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072YKJFK7
If you don't mind shipping from the States, you can try: www.redco.com/Mogami-W2524.html
Best of luck!
don't suppose to heat the part where you want to apply the solder?
Usually but it can warp the plastic part. Using flux can eliminate the need for that because it acts like a magnet and draws the solder to it.
Thank you......
You’re very welcome.
Sir where do you buy mogami 2425? Bulk.... thanks
My Mogami xlr cable is 6mm in diameter which is a w2534 what size Alex Tech sleeving do I need for a nice fit.I was thinking quarter inch from their website in red and black. Would I be right or wrong.
🤔 I need to check on that and get back to you but you can’t go wrong with slightly smaller since it really opens up nicely to accommodate larger cables - but again, let me check.
@@JackofAllTech OK thanks Jack. Good to see you replying to your video's.Thankyou
I usually try to respond. 😉
That cable has the same diameter as the Mogami W2549 - which I happen to have on hand. I just tested my cable with the Alex Tech 1/4” and it fit nicely. You should be safe with that size.
I would caution you against using Alex Tech (or any plastic sleeve) with XLR cables that will be used with microphones. It’s very microphonic so your mic, when moved, will pick up the cable (friction) noise. If you want to sleeve your cable for a nice aesthetic, cloth-base sleeve may be a better choice.
Good luck!
@@JackofAllTech You are a gem mate. I am using the xlr cables as interconnects in Home theatre going from a Denon POAA1HD amp to a Marantz 8802 pre/pro. No microphone.You did an excellent job in your video and i think they would look neat at the rear of my equipment rack with the red and black sleeve.If you advise me not to use that sleeve i will take your advice.Love your work.
If you want to build that sort of stuff, it's better to chose a Sommer The Spirit LLX cable which has a lower capacitance per meter than any kind of Mogami ones.
Thanks, I’ll look into it. I chose Mogami since the industry seemed to favor it (e.g., recording studio use it) and wasn’t at snake oil prices.
@Paul Kasper what do you think about Canare for instrument cable making?
that sommer spirit LLX cable (or any other low cap cables for the matter) tend to be bigger cables and adding techflex would put the overall OD way out of acceptable OD range of many if not all plugs currently on the market. neutrik does make a NP2XL jumbo plug that accepts up to 10mm OD tho. so a thicker low cap cable AND techflex will work with the jumbo plugs but it's going to be a pretty big boy
would be good to see the math showing the component prices vs a equivalent new cable on amazon
Sure, that’s fair. Should be easy enough. I’ll take a look tonight.
For the sake of your inquiry, I'm going to make as close to a fair comparison as I can. In other words, I won't bother including some of the $100+ "snake oil" cables out there.
Also, just as an FYI, there was already a parts list in the description (for building your own).
From that list, the raw material cost (with today's prices) would be:
Neutrik NP2X-B 1/4" Professional Phone Plug, Black Shell with Gold Contacts || $3.49 || x2 || $6.98
25ft - 1/4 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving - BlackRed - Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve || $7.85 || x1 || $7.85
Mogami W2524 (www.redco.com/Mogami-W2524.html) || $0.84 || x10 || $8.40
Total: $23.23
NOTE: I didn't vet that this is using the better Mogami W2524 cable. Let's assume it is not using the cheapo Mogami W2319:
Mogami Gold INSTRUMENT-10 Guitar Instrument Cable, 1/4" TS Male Plugs, Gold Contacts, Straight Connectors, 10 Foot || amazon.com/dp/B0010CHS8 (with today's prices) || $49.99
I think building your own, if you are inclined, is still a decent deal ~$50 is still too much to pay IMHO.
I hope this helps.
@@JackofAllTech terrific answer Jack. Thank you alot
Can we use TV cables for this ?
Yes
Is the inside diameter of the Techflex 10mm ?
Hard to say since TechFlex can expand to about double its size and easily stretches so it would be hard to measure.
If I had to guess the material is less than a mm thick so you can a assume it’s over 9mm if you take that into account. I can break out the calipers when I get home and measure the thickness to be sure.
Finally, I wouldn’t rely too much on the size printed on the label. They’re more like approximations.
Hope that helps.
@@JackofAllTech Thanks for the quick reply. I was asking because I want to order it online and there is from 2mm up to 25mm diameter. So I was not sure which one to pick.
Or I can buy the cable and measure the diameter and then order..
I’d do the latter, buy the cable then measure and buy. Err on the side of slightly smaller. If it’s too big it won’t have a tight fit. TechFlex stretches quite a bit so a little stretching is fine.
@@JackofAllTech Thanks man. I think its best if i buy the cable, measure it, and then order the TechFlex so it can have a nice grip.
:)
@Secret_Armor wow thanks for the reply. I'll definitely will try the clean cut, because I too don't like to read labels. However I will try on another cable the nylon type of tech flex just so I can compare the two.
Thanks for the reply :)
Why the tech flex?
Purely aesthetic.
Hey how durable are these cable?
Very. These are Mogami cables - highly regarded in the industry. If you plan to use them on the road I would forego the Techflex or used an alternative wrapping - something cloth-based. Should be more durable and be less microphonic.
@@JackofAllTech thanks so much
No problem.
Twisted copper strand? Why not choose braided copper strand? Tighter shielding and more tough.
First dislike :))))
Haters gotta hate & Trolls gotta troll. Nothing better to do ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Don't you think
You should be wearing
Gloves/ Mask / Ear
Plugs and safety glasses before soldering ?
Have you not heard
those fumes are a poisonous and the solder gets hot and could pop up in your eyes ? Also if you wear ear plugs you not as likely to be distracted by the back ground music or your phone ringing , Allowing you to concentrate on your work.