Man, the fact you took the time to not just make this experiment but also recorded so we can watch it is priceless. Very appreciated By the way, I would love to see a small video or maybe a small section in Battles with bits of Rubber as an introduction to 3D printers, I know you and Todd are pretty much into it. I'm thinking about getting a 3D printer but I'm not sure where to start.
This is great! I'd never considered using my HVLP gun for encapsulation sprays. I just used my Iwawta. I also always use super-baldeez just because I find acetone to be harsh smelling and on the skin of the subject when I melt away the edge. I also like how skin illustrator alch activated pigments "bite" into the surface of my super-b cap plastic. Loving your channel!
Stuart, how amazing is that you wanted to do such a video!!! Thank you so much, and I have one question. What do you use to clean your airbrush gun? I'm guessing that acetone but before I will use my airbrush, I want to make sure ;)
thank you soo much this is great , one question dos the cap plastic not dry up in the airbrush between layers drying up? so it will ruin the dmall parts of the airbrush? acetone too ruons the airbrush pieces?
Acetone doesn't damage a decent airbrush. All parts concerned are made of metal. It's fine between layers. If there is any blockage, then spray some pure acetone through. I find that the Paasche H is easiest as all the mix happens in a short nozzle up front, and the needle is larger bore, so less prone to blockage.
All the time it doesn't evaporate its fine. Sealed containers will last years. A cup of Acetone can evaporate eventually but this pot wouldn't noticeably evaporate for days (it has a small hole to let air in). Seeing as it is only the acetone that evaporates (not the plastic itself) you can just add a drop of Acetone to restore the fluidity.
Hi Stuart, what an amazing video thank you so much! I learn so much from you. But I have a question. You say that when you brush on cap plastic (with the fan brush) you use 1:7, is this the same with alcohol, and how many layers do you prefer/advise when brushing on cap plastic?
I'd use less alcohol, maybe 1:3. The reason being that alcohol evaporates slower, so building up and accumulating actual layers of plastic is hard as it is easy to simply wipe away the previous layer easch time instead. Apply the layers swiftly after each layer has dried, disturbing the layer as little as possible. Repeatedly wiping the same spot with reactivate and disturb the layers. Be sure to wipe a layer on in as few brush strokes as possible to avoid disturbing the previous dried layer. I always suggest airbrush if possible. It's just so much better all round.
@@stuartbray thank you so much for answering my question! I really want to invest in an airbrush. Maybe one of your “cheaper” options, you mentioned in the video, to start with. Do you have any suggestions of which one to pick for a starter with just a small working space and a little business in it?(I sell mine on Etsy 😊)
I don't rate Glatzan as an encapsulant, but ifbyiuvare going to use it then thin it as much as needed tobget through your airbrush. Usually around 6 or 7 parts solvent to one part cap plastic.
@@stuartbray thanks for the answer I'm a beginner so I don't have airbrush yet trying to make it with a simple brush , also do you think glatzan is a bad choice to begin with for encapsulating pieces ? thanks again for your time
@TheEdvinas694 yes. I don't think nit is very good as an encapsulant. I found it too stiff, so I'd recommend Baldies acetone based cap plastic. It can also be bought as a pure dry plastic bead, which makes it easier to ship around the world
I can't figure out why my cap plastic keeps separating, like I have the correct gun, but for whatever reason when I put the backing layer on in, it doesn't adhere to the front layer, same batch of cap plastic is used for both.
Thanks for watching! Brown paper on a roll, sometimes known as craft paper but also I've seen something similar known as 'Butcher Paper' which is kind of waxed. Great to catch spills and then when sufficiently soiled, tear it off and replace.
@stuart bray Thank you for this video, it has helped me know what I was doing wrong. Also are you still selling your flat molds? I was looking to get both your disease molds, saw Brick in the yard isn't carrying them. :(
It often amuses me how liberal the word "dangerous" is used by the Brits.. 😉 Here in the USA, dangerous means life threatening and has nothing to do with painting and art
Man, the fact you took the time to not just make this experiment but also recorded so we can watch it is priceless. Very appreciated
By the way, I would love to see a small video or maybe a small section in Battles with bits of Rubber as an introduction to 3D printers, I know you and Todd are pretty much into it. I'm thinking about getting a 3D printer but I'm not sure where to start.
Beautiful explained with everything you need to know to start working 💪🏻👌🏻
Thanks man. Appreciate you watching.
This is great! I'd never considered using my HVLP gun for encapsulation sprays. I just used my Iwawta. I also always use super-baldeez just because I find acetone to be harsh smelling and on the skin of the subject when I melt away the edge. I also like how skin illustrator alch activated pigments "bite" into the surface of my super-b cap plastic. Loving your channel!
Nice, I've done it both ways. Having watched your video airbrushing is the way I will do my flat molds from now on.
Thank you so much
Stuart, how amazing is that you wanted to do such a video!!!
Thank you so much, and I have one question.
What do you use to clean your airbrush gun? I'm guessing that acetone but before I will use my airbrush, I want to make sure ;)
Yes. Acetone works fine.
Great video!!!
Brilliant thanks
thank you soo much this is great , one question dos the cap plastic not dry up in the airbrush between layers drying up? so it will ruin the dmall parts of the airbrush? acetone too ruons the airbrush pieces?
Acetone doesn't damage a decent airbrush. All parts concerned are made of metal. It's fine between layers. If there is any blockage, then spray some pure acetone through. I find that the Paasche H is easiest as all the mix happens in a short nozzle up front, and the needle is larger bore, so less prone to blockage.
Very very useful . Ty🙏
How long will it last in a container?
All the time it doesn't evaporate its fine. Sealed containers will last years. A cup of Acetone can evaporate eventually but this pot wouldn't noticeably evaporate for days (it has a small hole to let air in).
Seeing as it is only the acetone that evaporates (not the plastic itself) you can just add a drop of Acetone to restore the fluidity.
Thank you so much
Hi Stuart, what an amazing video thank you so much! I learn so much from you. But I have a question. You say that when you brush on cap plastic (with the fan brush) you use 1:7, is this the same with alcohol, and how many layers do you prefer/advise when brushing on cap plastic?
I'd use less alcohol, maybe 1:3.
The reason being that alcohol evaporates slower, so building up and accumulating actual layers of plastic is hard as it is easy to simply wipe away the previous layer easch time instead.
Apply the layers swiftly after each layer has dried, disturbing the layer as little as possible. Repeatedly wiping the same spot with reactivate and disturb the layers. Be sure to wipe a layer on in as few brush strokes as possible to avoid disturbing the previous dried layer.
I always suggest airbrush if possible. It's just so much better all round.
@@stuartbray thank you so much for answering my question! I really want to invest in an airbrush. Maybe one of your “cheaper” options, you mentioned in the video, to start with. Do you have any suggestions of which one to pick for a starter with just a small working space and a little business in it?(I sell mine on Etsy 😊)
how much would you recommend to dilute cap plastic with acetone I use kryolan glatzan L, and how many layers would you do with a brush ?
I don't rate Glatzan as an encapsulant, but ifbyiuvare going to use it then thin it as much as needed tobget through your airbrush. Usually around 6 or 7 parts solvent to one part cap plastic.
@@stuartbray thanks for the answer I'm a beginner so I don't have airbrush yet trying to make it with a simple brush , also do you think glatzan is a bad choice to begin with for encapsulating pieces ? thanks again for your time
@TheEdvinas694 yes. I don't think nit is very good as an encapsulant. I found it too stiff, so I'd recommend Baldies acetone based cap plastic. It can also be bought as a pure dry plastic bead, which makes it easier to ship around the world
I can't figure out why my cap plastic keeps separating, like I have the correct gun, but for whatever reason when I put the backing layer on in, it doesn't adhere to the front layer, same batch of cap plastic is used for both.
Do you mean that the cap plastic you spray on the back isn't bonding to the silicone appliance?
Hi Stuart! love the video - What are you using as a surface for your workstation if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks for watching! Brown paper on a roll, sometimes known as craft paper but also I've seen something similar known as 'Butcher Paper' which is kind of waxed. Great to catch spills and then when sufficiently soiled, tear it off and replace.
Howdy Stuart, great vid!
What PSI do you typically set when using your airbrush for Baldiez? I mainly use a Paasche H, at around 20-30 PSI
Usually about 10 to 15
@stuart bray Thank you for this video, it has helped me know what I was doing wrong. Also are you still selling your flat molds? I was looking to get both your disease molds, saw Brick in the yard isn't carrying them. :(
Yes indeed. Email me stuartbray@yahoo.com
While your working on a project
It often amuses me how liberal the word "dangerous" is used by the Brits.. 😉 Here in the USA, dangerous means life threatening and has nothing to do with painting and art
Inhaling acetone fumes created by an airbrush can indeed be a danger to lungs.