This is a good method for making a spindle stop. A link to the drawings is provided a reference only and probably won't be the same diameter as your spindle. drive.google.c...
I have a nice selection of fasteners I get from a truck accessory company that are left over from assembling a variety of things. Some are SAE, and the others are metric. I also got some nice bolts from the scrap yard. Sometimes they are new from the scrap yard,but usually not.
Nice build! Another type of stop I've used is a collet stop. An internal thread in the collet accepts the stop nut. A threaded shaft that has a lock nut on it, runs inside the stop nut, and is adjusted into position and locked in place with the lock nut.
For my 9" SBL, I made a spindle stop that uses a short plug inside the out-board end of the spindle (way simpler design). It is locked in place by a grub screw that backs out to engage a hole in the spindle wall. This arrangement gives me more depth for the work-piece ( almost the entire length of spindle plus chuck). The first iteration used a grub screw to hold the stop-rod, but my next one will hold it like a collet to avoid upsetting the rod. One could argue that a short plug would not hold the rod straight, but I have not found it to be an issue. Nice machine work, Winky! Best regards.
Shorter would be okay. Alignment is not super critical. I used a flat tip set screw to ovoid damaging the rod. You are right about this design, it didn't take me long to make but getting a good fit is critical. The amount of depth lost has never been an issue for me although I'm certain it will be tomorrow, lol. Make a video of your design! I can't picture how you made the grub screw back out. Of if you want to share, send me some pictures and I'll make a video in the future. There is ALWAYS a better way!!!! winkysworkshop@gmx.com
@Winky's Workshop Did you ever find out how that grub screw tightens the spindle plug? My spindle has a small hole ~11/64" (untapped) on the wall near the end which could accommodate some kind of screw to hold a stop in place.
@@WinkysWorkshop It came with the hole. My older one (1944) does not have the hole. I plan to make a plug with a 1/4 hole and set screw for an adjustable rod and make some sort of fastener to hold the plug in place thru the spindle wall hole
Nice job just thought I'd add a tip for cleaning the spindle bore and tailstock bore or anything else get yourself a 12 gauge shotgun cleaning kit the brass bore brushes work great you can put the rod in a drill in the kit it'll have a couple more brushes and also a felt pad holder that works perfect to hold a strip of scotchbright and cloth I usually do the brass brush then scotchbright with wd40 then cloth 👍👍👍
That would work. I need to do that. When I first got the lathe is was 100% plugged. I socked the spindle in solvent and then water and detergent. That got about 98% of it.
Hi Winky. Just made the spindle stop, had to modify it to suit my lathe but an extremely useful addition to the lathe. thanks for the drawing. Keep up the great videos
Prowling around today and found this. Making these adaptations to our equip rarely is a bad thing. Good to see you again this fine day my friend. Looks like a live center for the tailstock would be next eh. I see some chip loading in your file. I found a product at "Rio Grande" called "Burlife" It is inexpensive and the very best file, burr or even coarse sandpaper even hole saws that stops those nasty pieces that can ruin a finish. You will love it, GUARANTEED. What a great addon to the lathe. Good post bud.
Good job. I made a similar one based on Harold Hall's design. It has a plug with a MT3 taper that goes into the nose of the spindle and prevents the rod from moving about. It also has a cap for the end of the rod that just fits into the bore of the cushman chuck to act as a more positive backstop for parts.
Thanks. It's a real space saver! I have a video of the grinder stand but honestly it could be made many different ways. I've actually thought about making it rotate on the post so that I could install two more grinders.
I thought you might internal thread the inside piece and then use a piece of threaded rod for the stop with a jam nut to lock it in position. But that might be harder to finely adjust since it might move when tightening the jam nut.... Again nice video and great idea!
This channel has a little of everything machining, disco happy dancing and a great cowboy YeeHa at the end. Another useful addition to your shop in the regular keep it simple and effective style. When did you install a DRO on the mill drill? It is a game changer for sure.
@@WinkysWorkshop Boy am I slow!! Here I've been thinking that was something on your wish list. Hard to believe that I just noticed. I need to go sit in the corner of shame for ten minutes now.
Really a well done project, and well ma video! It has its place in every machinists toolbox. A nice tool when turning multiple parts. But... using a collet chuck, I see an uncertainty as the collet chuck pulls the object deeper into the spindle. Who wins, the collet chuck or the spindle stop? You don't like the Joe Pie style, turning the threading tool upside down and lathe in reverse turning? Joking! Time 17:20. Emery paper, or a file, often does the trick better then more cuts. Time 17:50. Wow! That's a piedestal grinder! My one stands on the floor.... Time 18:30. I thought so. It was bottom it out earlier... Time 20:05. Slit sawing.... Poff, poff,poff... Is that the same kind of Chinese saw blade as I've got? Joking and laughing! Time 20:55. A slightly dangerous direction of cutting, climb cutting... End comment. A very useful tool for every lathe,
Yeah I guess the plunge cut was climbing. Every time I have used that arbor it's out of round. I've thought about making a new one (but collets for the lathe!). I have a video of the grinder. I made it from my old drill press column. It has a buffer on one side and wire brush on the other. I love it. Reverse threading is not a good idea with a screw on chuck otherwise not a bad idea. When I get collets they will be ER40. They have a nut instead of a draw bar so you can use the bore. They are slower to use but in a home shop they are perfect. They also have a larger clamping range. Thanks for watching!
@@WinkysWorkshop Climb cutting works when the rigidity matches the needs. Making 2 arbors using different designs I say that those cheap Chinese saw blades have the hole off center. Move slowly knowing that only parts of the blade is cutting and it works. Also got a collet chuck for ER32, as I have a good set of them, and an ER40 collet chuck and a few collets to cover the larger dimensions.
@@Stefan_Boerjesson Yeah... I wasn't too worried, I was going very slow. The arbor (Chinese) is the problem. The blades are high dollar blade from a local industry that closed. I have about 30 or 40 and could have got a whole box full.
@@Stefan_Boerjesson - Just re-read your first comment. Yeah collets might be an issue with the spindle stop because it pulls the work when it tightens. Maybe a very strong spring on the end of the rod to set the position and then allow it to pull in a little.... probably not an accurate method.
Chinese finger trap. Hilariously since I was a kid with a chinese finger trap components with torque lock capability somehow make that connection through the synapses of my right n left brain which I belive are connected with, said finger trap
That probably explains why I had trouble threading the other day. I made the threading dial and the dial screw comes loose. I need to loctite it. I'm glad it didn't slip while cutting the threads on the project! Ha
I really enjoyed the video, I don't want to admit how many times I have watched it :) you tool holder is normal except a bent spanner ? it would be nice to see a video on the tools you used, the normal cutter for facing off is not the one I would choose, But I am an amateur :) could explain why ??? thank you
Bent? The tool holder holds the insert at an angle. This insert is meant to be use like this. Its a VNMG insert. It seems to work well for just about anything. If I was doing a lot of facing I'd probably use a different insert that brakes chips better.
Just an idea, why couldn't a person have put some cuts in the inside taper piece too to lock down on the 1/4" rod also, thus eliminating the need of a set screw?
Mark I love the way you ended the video with the ghost dance. The wonderfull world of 1's and 0's we live in today.
Haha... thanks.
I have a nice selection of fasteners I get from a truck accessory company that are left over from assembling a variety of things. Some are SAE, and the others are metric. I also got some nice bolts from the scrap yard. Sometimes they are new from the scrap yard,but usually not.
Nice! Industrial surplus is handy to have around!
I could feel your sense of satisfaction when you tested the fit of those tapers for the first time. Awesome!
Good to hear from you Dave! Yeah I like it 😃
From cutting steel to cutting rugs! Nice tool. Simple and fun beginner project, too.
Yes! Thank you!
Nice build!
Another type of stop I've used is a collet stop. An internal thread in the collet accepts the stop nut. A threaded shaft that has a lock nut on it, runs inside the stop nut, and is adjusted into position and locked in place with the lock nut.
That would work!
Great job 👍 thanks for sharing. And appreciate the disco moves. John Travolta would be proud of you 😄😄.
HA, Thanks!
For my 9" SBL, I made a spindle stop that uses a short plug inside the out-board end of the spindle (way simpler design). It is locked in place by a grub screw that backs out to engage a hole in the spindle wall. This arrangement gives me more depth for the work-piece ( almost the entire length of spindle plus chuck). The first iteration used a grub screw to hold the stop-rod, but my next one will hold it like a collet to avoid upsetting the rod. One could argue that a short plug would not hold the rod straight, but I have not found it to be an issue. Nice machine work, Winky! Best regards.
Shorter would be okay. Alignment is not super critical. I used a flat tip set screw to ovoid damaging the rod. You are right about this design, it didn't take me long to make but getting a good fit is critical. The amount of depth lost has never been an issue for me although I'm certain it will be tomorrow, lol. Make a video of your design! I can't picture how you made the grub screw back out. Of if you want to share, send me some pictures and I'll make a video in the future. There is ALWAYS a better way!!!! winkysworkshop@gmx.com
@Winky's Workshop Did you ever find out how that grub screw tightens the spindle plug? My spindle has a small hole ~11/64" (untapped) on the wall near the end which could accommodate some kind of screw to hold a stop in place.
@@martik778 Did your SB 9 come with the hole in the side of the spindle or did you drill it?
@@WinkysWorkshop It came with the hole. My older one (1944) does not have the hole. I plan to make a plug with a 1/4 hole and set screw for an adjustable rod and make some sort of fastener to hold the plug in place thru the spindle wall hole
@@martik778 that would work well!
Great job winky. I can see where that would come in handy.
Yeah... I sold my Logan and needed one for the south bend. I've used it a few times already!
Love the music, and the dance at the end!! Nice tool too!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice job just thought I'd add a tip for cleaning the spindle bore and tailstock bore or anything else get yourself a 12 gauge shotgun cleaning kit the brass bore brushes work great you can put the rod in a drill in the kit it'll have a couple more brushes and also a felt pad holder that works perfect to hold a strip of scotchbright and cloth I usually do the brass brush then scotchbright with wd40 then cloth 👍👍👍
That would work. I need to do that. When I first got the lathe is was 100% plugged. I socked the spindle in solvent and then water and detergent. That got about 98% of it.
Just finished mine for my Logan 820...nice project...thank you!
Thats great!
Hi Winky. Just made the spindle stop, had to modify it to suit my lathe but an extremely useful addition to the lathe. thanks for the drawing. Keep up the great videos
Thanks fantastic. Yes it is handy for sure!
Mark, well thought out I might have to copy. Enjoyed..👍👍
Thanks Dean, it was a fun project.
Well done Winky Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much 🤗
Prowling around today and found this. Making these adaptations to our equip rarely is a bad thing. Good to see you again this fine day my friend. Looks like a live center for the tailstock would be next eh. I see some chip loading in your file. I found a product at "Rio Grande" called "Burlife" It is inexpensive and the very best file, burr or even coarse sandpaper even hole saws that stops those nasty pieces that can ruin a finish. You will love it, GUARANTEED. What a great addon to the lathe. Good post bud.
Interesting. I may have to try that!
@@WinkysWorkshop It keeps my silver files like new. It should be around $10.00 your currency. I do a couple videos showing it.
@@TomokosEnterprize - I'll check it out. Thanks
Very handy tool Winky.
Thanks Harold!
Nice design ! I could use one of those on my lathe for sure! Another project added to the list !
Thanks Ian, I posted a link to the drawing below the video. You could print it and modify the diameters to fit your lathe.
Good job. I made a similar one based on Harold Hall's design. It has a plug with a MT3 taper that goes into the nose of the spindle and prevents the rod from moving about. It also has a cap for the end of the rod that just fits into the bore of the cushman chuck to act as a more positive backstop for parts.
Interesting although you can't use the spindle bore. There is probably a more simple way to do it but I could figure out how.
Nice upgrade, thanks for sending
Any time!
Great idea winky, keep'um coming.
Thank you! Will do!
That swivel ginder stand is nice.
Thanks. It's a real space saver! I have a video of the grinder stand but honestly it could be made many different ways. I've actually thought about making it rotate on the post so that I could install two more grinders.
I thought you might internal thread the inside piece and then use a piece of threaded rod for the stop with a jam nut to lock it in position. But that might be harder to finely adjust since it might move when tightening the jam nut....
Again nice video and great idea!
Thanks Dwight. I'm sure there are other good ways to do this but this worked well.
Upping the entertainment factor I see... Nice spindle stop also!!!
Yeah... every once in a while I get inspired. Thanks
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
Get yourself a Rose Index. It'll aid in milling those slots.
Yes that would be handy to have!
MUY INTERESANTE ESE UTIL ,UN TRABAJO BIEN ECHO COMO SIEMPRE
Gracious!
23:46 Nut drop.... obvious why but its a new trick to me thankyou :)
Cool
This channel has a little of everything machining, disco happy dancing and a great cowboy YeeHa at the end. Another useful addition to your shop in the regular keep it simple and effective style. When did you install a DRO on the mill drill? It is a game changer for sure.
Thanks Andy! Yeah the DRO was installed a couple of years ago. The cheapest I could find and works perfect. About $85 for all three axis.
@@WinkysWorkshop Boy am I slow!! Here I've been thinking that was something on your wish list. Hard to believe that I just noticed. I need to go sit in the corner of shame for ten minutes now.
@@andyZ3500s - You're too hard on yourself. Thanks for watching
Really a well done project, and well ma video! It has its place in every machinists toolbox. A nice tool when turning multiple parts. But... using a collet chuck, I see an uncertainty as the collet chuck pulls the object deeper into the spindle. Who wins, the collet chuck or the spindle stop?
You don't like the Joe Pie style, turning the threading tool upside down and lathe in reverse turning? Joking!
Time 17:20. Emery paper, or a file, often does the trick better then more cuts.
Time 17:50. Wow! That's a piedestal grinder! My one stands on the floor....
Time 18:30. I thought so. It was bottom it out earlier...
Time 20:05. Slit sawing.... Poff, poff,poff... Is that the same kind of Chinese saw blade as I've got? Joking and laughing!
Time 20:55. A slightly dangerous direction of cutting, climb cutting...
End comment. A very useful tool for every lathe,
Yeah I guess the plunge cut was climbing. Every time I have used that arbor it's out of round. I've thought about making a new one (but collets for the lathe!). I have a video of the grinder. I made it from my old drill press column. It has a buffer on one side and wire brush on the other. I love it. Reverse threading is not a good idea with a screw on chuck otherwise not a bad idea. When I get collets they will be ER40. They have a nut instead of a draw bar so you can use the bore. They are slower to use but in a home shop they are perfect. They also have a larger clamping range. Thanks for watching!
@@WinkysWorkshop Climb cutting works when the rigidity matches the needs.
Making 2 arbors using different designs I say that those cheap Chinese saw blades have the hole off center. Move slowly knowing that only parts of the blade is cutting and it works.
Also got a collet chuck for ER32, as I have a good set of them, and an ER40 collet chuck and a few collets to cover the larger dimensions.
@@Stefan_Boerjesson Yeah... I wasn't too worried, I was going very slow. The arbor (Chinese) is the problem. The blades are high dollar blade from a local industry that closed. I have about 30 or 40 and could have got a whole box full.
@@WinkysWorkshop Haha. I've got a well made arbor and poor Chinese blades.....
@@Stefan_Boerjesson - Just re-read your first comment. Yeah collets might be an issue with the spindle stop because it pulls the work when it tightens. Maybe a very strong spring on the end of the rod to set the position and then allow it to pull in a little.... probably not an accurate method.
Great
Thanks!
sweet
Thanks Ray
ΚΑΛΗΜΕΡΑΑΑΑ ΚΑΛΟ Σ/Κ
Thanks
I have to make me one of those for my Logan.
I have one for my Logan but this one turned out better. Also , I sold my Logan.
Chinese finger trap. Hilariously since I was a kid with a chinese finger trap components with torque lock capability somehow make that connection through the synapses of my right n left brain which I belive are connected with, said finger trap
Haha... finny! Thanks
2:30 bizarre observation - looks to me like your leadscrew threading dial pops up and down every revolution - odd !
Eagle eye -- could be a shiny spot?
That probably explains why I had trouble threading the other day. I made the threading dial and the dial screw comes loose. I need to loctite it. I'm glad it didn't slip while cutting the threads on the project! Ha
@@andyZ3500s it did - ha
I really enjoyed the video, I don't want to admit how many times I have watched it :) you tool holder is normal except a bent spanner ?
it would be nice to see a video on the tools you used, the normal cutter for facing off is not the one I would choose, But I am an amateur :) could explain why ??? thank you
Bent? The tool holder holds the insert at an angle. This insert is meant to be use like this. Its a VNMG insert. It seems to work well for just about anything. If I was doing a lot of facing I'd probably use a different insert that brakes chips better.
And if you haven't got a bandsaw, use the mill ;)
Lol
@@gabewhisen3446 I haven't got a bandsaw !
Yeah... whatever works
Just an idea, why couldn't a person have put some cuts in the inside taper piece too to lock down on the 1/4" rod also, thus eliminating the need of a set screw?
Interesting idea. It would work I think although I suspect it might be hard to adjust.
@@WinkysWorkshop How so? Also, your making it for a mass production/repeatability so your not adjusting it often.
In most cases it wouldn't matter but things tend to move around as a taper is being locked down. Making a slight adjustment would be more difficult.
@@WinkysWorkshop You would know, having built it and using it.
I had some time so I gave all your commenters a like. I don't know if it helps but it sure can't hurt eh.
Thanks
Looks my lathe.
Cool