You're living the dream. I never really got introduced to camping myself, but as a Dutchman who has it basically etched in his DNA, I must say that this project is really starting to activate those genes.
I found your channel while researching these motorhomes. You've been an inspiration. I just purchased a 74 26ft Glenbrook and I'm so excited to get started! Keep making great informative videos! I love all the ideas for how to do things differently.
I rebuilt my front end stock, I put in offset bushings on the upper control arm, I did my own wheel alignment using a caster camber Guage, a laser to ensure I was alignment was straight. The idea that the motorhome needs to track the same in the front as the back to stop it from moving around with cupped roads is a total myth. In fact it's totally wrong. If you studied race car suspension, you would understand that the further you move the center contact patch off of the center of the ball joint the more the scrub radius is. The more scrub you have, the harder it will be to turn the wheels, and the more torque steer you will have. My stock suspension drives so straight and true, I can put the cruise on and go to the back for a whisky like Ron burgundy. No one can argue that scrub radius does not apply. It absolutely does. Most people who changed to one ton obviously , say it's better but never felt what a good stock suspension feels like.
On the axle nut- once used shim stock to fill in the difference. Soda can aluminum will work in a pinch as well. I put the shim stock around the nut with the socket wedging it in place, and drove the socket down over it.
The spacer on the one-ton kit compensates for the increased offset of the dually wheels. The knuckle is designed for the offset of single wheels as used on most 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. When dually wheels are used on the front end, the spacer is used to compensate for the increased offset between single and dually wheels. You could get single wheels for the front and the tire track would be in the same place, but then you would need to carry a single wheel spare for the front and a dual wheel spare for the rear.. Look at the front end of any GM or Chev one-ton dually wheeled truck and you will see the same width spacer on them. I've had my one-ton front end for about 10 years now and I love it! The only downside to the wider front track is it increases the lever-arm on the torsion bars, so you will find you need to crank up the front suspension to bring it back to the proper ride height. You will also find the front end dives down more when braking.
That's why you install the "reaction brake kit" on the rear that "floats" the calipers and uses connecting rods to transfer the brake forces directly to the frame instead of pushing up on the back (pivot) end of the swingarms for the middle wheels and down on the pivot end of the rear wheels. But the twist from the middle wheels unloads the rear wheels so they can barely contribute to stopping the motorhome. This all contributes to nosedive. With the floating caliper kit installed, the swingarms see none of the braking forces. It all goes from the wheels to the rotors to the calipers, to the backing plates, to the connecting rods, to the frame. The middle wheel brake force can't do any lifting on the frame and the rear wheels don't get unloaded or lose traction. If the middle wheels could be replaced with rear wheels so all the swingarms were made trailing arms instead of the middle wheels being on leading arms, then the braking performance would be super, because all the rear brakes, drum or disc, would *pull down* on the rear of the motorhome to counteract nose dive with rear squat. The whole thing would slightly lower and become more stable with the center of gravity lowered under hard braking. That's how it should have been designed but GM's engineers wanted to save $ by using a single airbag per side and thought that having a "bogey" style suspension would improve the ride by having it where rolling over something would push the rear wheel down as the middle wheel went over, providing more suspension travel as the rear wheel rolled over. But that also increases sideways rocking on rough ground. Converting to dual airbags with a fixed center attachment eliminates the "bogey" and completely independently suspends all four back wheels. It also somewhat reduces rear wheel unloading under braking because the middle wheels swingarms twisting down don't put any pull upwards on the rear wheels through the airbags. Another trick possible with dual airbags with fixed center mounting is with independent airbag inflation (and deflation) control you won't need a jack to change a rear wheel. Inflate the bag for the good one and pull the air out of the bag for the bad one to raise it off the ground.
23:47 No, hub centric wheels are not supported by the hub flange. The wheel is aligned to the hub flange but the wheel is still held onto the hub by the clamping force of the lug nuts/studs. This is a shear force and is the same regardless of hub centric or not. The hub centric is better because the wheel is accurately aligned to the hub flange. The hub centric rings do not bear a load. The weight of the vehicle is actually supported by the friction between the wheel and its mounting surface on the axle. The friction is established and maintained once the lug hardware is properly installed and torqued to specs.
Hi Kent, The mechanical forces in a hubcentric wheel attachment are a little complicated. The surface friction between the inside face of the rim and the outside face of the hub certainly adds some of the holding force, but by no means are the lug studs and the corresponding holes in the rim the bearing surface for the weight of the motorhome. That job is done by the flange. Tightening the lug nuts on a hub centric system only has the effect of increasing the surface friction between the two faces. Take a look at my other video at this time stamp: th-cam.com/video/0jA2TIbdhMk/w-d-xo.html You can see just how much play there is between the lug holes and the lug studs. It's clear in this video that the rim is held in place by the hub flange. Even though I have the lug nuts here loosened the same movement could occur under load even with the lug nuts torqued to spec. Keep in mind that I was hearing a "CLUNK" noise when I slammed on the accelerator. Meaning that the lug nuts were allowing the wheel to spin until the rim hit the studs. Because of the tolerance between the hub flange and the rim, there is not enough moment in the vertical direction to allow the rim to slide so far that the studs contact the lug holes. That can only happen in rotational movement not vertical movement. There is a tiny bit of movement possible in the vertical direction, but it is very small. Moreover, the force required to propel the motor home forward is far less than the force to hold the motor home up off the ground. Think about when you hit a pothole, or washboard? Driving over those those terrain obstacles is like hitting the whole system with an impact driver. We know how effective impact drivers are at removing rusty/stuck bolts. No matter how tight you have the lug nuts, the surface friction between the wheel and hub will not hold the wheel in place during these adverse driving conditions. That job is done by the hub flange. Think of it as a mortise and tenon joint. The lug nuts just sort of hold it in place and provide enough surface friction to resist (not impede) rotational movement and vertical sliding movement between wheel and hub. So, it's like an added strength, but the primary weight bearing happens on the hub flange. That's how the engineers intended it.
@@IndustriousPursuits Respectfully, Kent is correct. Vertical loads are held by the friction of the mating surface only - whether hub centric or lug centric. Indeed, most hub centric rings that are made for adapting aftermarket wheels to different sized hubs are made out of soft aluminum or even plastic. They absolutely are not designed to support the weight of the vehicle - only to center the wheel on the hub.
@@McGurble Are you trolling? The aftermarket will sell you anything. Plastic hub centric adapter rings are a death trap unless used with lug centric rims. Which is how they are used 99% of the time. Because they are plastic they do absolutely nothing, and are a complete waste of money. The lug nuts will center the rim where they want and will compress the plastic adapter if there is a discrepancy. You said "Vertical loads are held by the friction of the mating surface only...[on] lug centric [wheels]." This is patently false. Lug centric wheel attachment has a 45° cone to the lug nuts and a corresponding 45° chamfer to the inside of the lug holes on the rim. These two surfaces mate and center the lug stud inside the hole. A 45 degree hole and cone mating split the clamping force equally in two directions. This is proven by a concept from engineering called "force vectoring." www.dummies.com/education/science/physics/force-is-a-vector/) Therefore, each lug nut is providing 50% of it's strength to holding the rim in place resisting the planar forces forces acting in the vertical direction and also torsion (ie. spinning during acceleration and braking). The other 50% holds the rim to the hub in order to counteract forces from leaning during cornering or other such driving conditions that put a side load on the tire such as an angled side slipping road. Of course there is the added benefit of increased friction between the rim and hub which increases the holding strength of the connection resisting afore mentioned planar movements, but the engineers did not design the rim with this as the primary holding force. I doubt they even considered it in their calculations for lug centric wheels.
@@IndustriousPursuits I promise, I'm not trolling! Since I'm just a random internet person, here is a long article discussing failure modes and engineering principles behind wheel attachment methods. It gets quite into the weeds, but here is a relevant excerpt: It has been reported in the literature [11] that a hub-piloted wheel attachment system actually provides additional support for the wheel in that a portion of the vertical road-load forces is transferred directly to the hub through contact between the wheel center hole and the hub. This is not correct! Just as in the bolt-piloted systems, all road loads are transferred from the hub-piloted wheel to the hub through the friction connection provided by the nut clamp force and the shear and bending forces applied through the nut to the wheel bolt. link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11668-017-0297-0#:%7E:text=The%20mechanics%20of%20securing%20the,its%20mating%20component%2C%20and%20the
I got a roadtrech smaller rig rv. I almost bought a GMC but it was too much for me . For each his own. But I love these videos what attention to detail.
Wow, those spacers will certainly put a stress load on the ball-joints, front hub bearings, and affect the turning scrub radius of you front wheels unless you're using rims to correctly place the wheel center to the original offset.
As a note of interest, the GMC RTS II gets its roots all the way back to 1964 but eventually debuted in 1977. I bring this up because the curvy automobile like body of these motor homes have uncanny similarities to the RTS II. Maybe quite possibly both city bus and motor home we’re drawn up at the same time as a concept in 1964?
The wheel bearings are larger due to the spacer, and the extra force that you talked about. I wonder how it would work to simply turn the wheel around, Leave the spacer off, and weld a, (Hat, Cone, shield,) onto the wheel to protect the rotor. But keeping the attachment point inboard where it was originally.?
Love your channel. I just purchased a 1973 GMC. I love everything about it except the stance. I can't stand a vehicle where the front end sticks up in the air. My Chevy G20 was the same. I lowered it and now it looks great. I also did the same with my 1981 Toyota Pickup by unscrewing the Torsion bars. I was wondering if that same thing could be done on these Motorhomes without screwing something up.
Doing similar with my 75 Palmbeach affecionately named Joe Cool...Because snoopy is on either side. For me I am doing the interior first from a to zed.
The torsion bar bolts could probably be replaced with the longer bolts without full length threads since the last 1/2 to 3/4 inch cannot engage the threads due to the eye that it passes through on the end of the torsion bar anyway.
You said you worked in San Diego so being in the fast lane at 55 mph is not unusual in California, drivers in California do not know how to use the Passing Lane, in Fact, if you ask the California driver what is the passing lane they look at you quizzically with an "Uhhhh"...thats the right lane where the trucks are" ...you can always tell the California Driver, in the Fast lane/passing lane on cruise control and they won't move over, So, great vid, never mine my sound off, I'l be watching, i love the old M H, its the simplicity, no circuit boards no chips hard wire, Thanks
Danger. you need the brass insert that fits inside your plastic line, as you have it now the plastic line can slip out of your copper compression fitting. available at your hardware store. better safe than sorry. nice build
I dont know if you have heard of or watched the TV show young sheldon but in season 3 episode 13 they have a full restored mint gmc motor home i got excited when I saw it and thought of your channel
Your Wheel spacers should not add much leverage to your bearings because your wheels are dished in to compensate so the tire is still basically under the bearings. In other words The Rim and spacer kind of cancel each other out
Yes I did get them from Manny. It's so much easier than doing it yourself. Half shafts are for a 1988 - 91 four wheel drive, one ton Chevy or GMC truck. Here is the DIY guide: www.bdub.net/One%20Ton%20Truck%20Front%20Suspension%20Conversion.pdf
Alternatives to battery acid exist Have you considered muriatic acid? Available from big box hardware stores. Used in swimming pools. I used to see phosphoric acid as well in the mansonry department there but havent seen it lately ( in california, that is ) Phosphoric acts like a rust converter. Electrolysis works too. It takes a battery charger, and washing soda available in the supermarket detergent area .TH-cam has info on this.
Built starting in seventy three and they were probably working on it for a few years before that....wrong. That work was done by Revcon. GMC coaches are fine if that's what you want. Good videos.
@@IndustriousPursuits Haha, you're still making progress faster than I am. It's very motivating to see everything coming along on your side. Thanks for the effort put into documenting everything you've done so far, it's really appreciated!
It was 1978. The workers were paid quite well compared to today (real wages) and a starter home only cost like $20,000. They had no excuse. It was just the unionized Detroit worker culture. Of course the pendulum has swung too far today with all the jobs going to China and Michigan now being a "Right to Work" state. Also, remember Ford adopted the motto "Quality is job 1" in 1981 to differentiate their brand and indirectly call out GM for low quality production. here is a graph showing just how crazy low real wages have fallen relative to housing prices: edge.alluremedia.com.au/uploads/businessinsider/2018/03/grattan-house-prices-Vs-wages.jpg
@@IndustriousPursuits yeah, GM "quality" was getting pretty bad in the late 70's. They didn't yet see Japanese imports as a threat, and aside from rust protection, the Japanese were hot on build quality - thanks to an American the American companies refused to listen to. One of Japan's most prestigious awards in business has that American's name on it! Edwards Deming. Had GM, Ford, and Chrysler paid attention to him in the 70's, Japanese Imports would have had a MUCH tougher time getting such a large chunk of the market in the US.
I would advise you learn to weld. It's not hard. I learned on one day. Get a cheap Harbor Freight welder and get sheet metal. Unless you are seeking collector quality fix. You should weld and fix those metals.
Yes. Sometimes. There are lots of brands that do the same thing. I have zero confidence that whatever brand I happen to be using is the best one, also viewers in different countries have different brands available. No sense struggling to find the exact thing I'm using and paying a premium for it. When I'm convinced that a certain brand is worth talking about I will show and talk about it.
You're living the dream. I never really got introduced to camping myself, but as a Dutchman who has it basically etched in his DNA, I must say that this project is really starting to activate those genes.
Proper enthusiasm for a righteous ride. Best of fortune getting it to the way you want it.
I found your channel while researching these motorhomes. You've been an inspiration. I just purchased a 74 26ft Glenbrook and I'm so excited to get started! Keep making great informative videos! I love all the ideas for how to do things differently.
I rebuilt my front end stock, I put in offset bushings on the upper control arm, I did my own wheel alignment using a caster camber Guage, a laser to ensure I was alignment was straight. The idea that the motorhome needs to track the same in the front as the back to stop it from moving around with cupped roads is a total myth. In fact it's totally wrong. If you studied race car suspension, you would understand that the further you move the center contact patch off of the center of the ball joint the more the scrub radius is. The more scrub you have, the harder it will be to turn the wheels, and the more torque steer you will have. My stock suspension drives so straight and true, I can put the cruise on and go to the back for a whisky like Ron burgundy. No one can argue that scrub radius does not apply. It absolutely does. Most people who changed to one ton obviously , say it's better but never felt what a good stock suspension feels like.
The solution to clearing those brake rotors is bigger diameter wheels. That eliminates the spacers.
Awesome bike riding. This is a great, informative post. Thank you
Great video. Thanks for posting
On the axle nut- once used shim stock to fill in the difference. Soda can aluminum will work in a pinch as well. I put the shim stock around the nut with the socket wedging it in place, and drove the socket down over it.
The spacer on the one-ton kit compensates for the increased offset of the dually wheels. The knuckle is designed for the offset of single wheels as used on most 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. When dually wheels are used on the front end, the spacer is used to compensate for the increased offset between single and dually wheels. You could get single wheels for the front and the tire track would be in the same place, but then you would need to carry a single wheel spare for the front and a dual wheel spare for the rear.. Look at the front end of any GM or Chev one-ton dually wheeled truck and you will see the same width spacer on them.
I've had my one-ton front end for about 10 years now and I love it! The only downside to the wider front track is it increases the lever-arm on the torsion bars, so you will find you need to crank up the front suspension to bring it back to the proper ride height. You will also find the front end dives down more when braking.
That's why you install the "reaction brake kit" on the rear that "floats" the calipers and uses connecting rods to transfer the brake forces directly to the frame instead of pushing up on the back (pivot) end of the swingarms for the middle wheels and down on the pivot end of the rear wheels. But the twist from the middle wheels unloads the rear wheels so they can barely contribute to stopping the motorhome. This all contributes to nosedive. With the floating caliper kit installed, the swingarms see none of the braking forces. It all goes from the wheels to the rotors to the calipers, to the backing plates, to the connecting rods, to the frame. The middle wheel brake force can't do any lifting on the frame and the rear wheels don't get unloaded or lose traction.
If the middle wheels could be replaced with rear wheels so all the swingarms were made trailing arms instead of the middle wheels being on leading arms, then the braking performance would be super, because all the rear brakes, drum or disc, would *pull down* on the rear of the motorhome to counteract nose dive with rear squat. The whole thing would slightly lower and become more stable with the center of gravity lowered under hard braking.
That's how it should have been designed but GM's engineers wanted to save $ by using a single airbag per side and thought that having a "bogey" style suspension would improve the ride by having it where rolling over something would push the rear wheel down as the middle wheel went over, providing more suspension travel as the rear wheel rolled over. But that also increases sideways rocking on rough ground.
Converting to dual airbags with a fixed center attachment eliminates the "bogey" and completely independently suspends all four back wheels. It also somewhat reduces rear wheel unloading under braking because the middle wheels swingarms twisting down don't put any pull upwards on the rear wheels through the airbags. Another trick possible with dual airbags with fixed center mounting is with independent airbag inflation (and deflation) control you won't need a jack to change a rear wheel. Inflate the bag for the good one and pull the air out of the bag for the bad one to raise it off the ground.
greggv8 ...EXCELLENT EXPLANATION
Great work!
Im going to restore russian UAZ Buchanka van and your tips will be really helpful because these vechicles come from same era
Great Job!! 👏👏👏👏
I can vouch for Evporust, it works great and it's non-toxic. I strain it after using and store it to use again.
Your barrel is called a ferrule. The better air lines are the Teflon not the poly ones.
23:47 No, hub centric wheels are not supported by the hub flange. The wheel is aligned to the hub flange but the wheel is still held onto the hub by the clamping force of the lug nuts/studs. This is a shear force and is the same regardless of hub centric or not. The hub centric is better because the wheel is accurately aligned to the hub flange. The hub centric rings do not bear a load. The weight of the vehicle is actually supported by the friction between the wheel and its mounting surface on the axle. The friction is established and maintained once the lug hardware is properly installed and torqued to specs.
Yes, this! Thank you.
Hi Kent, The mechanical forces in a hubcentric wheel attachment are a little complicated. The surface friction between the inside face of the rim and the outside face of the hub certainly adds some of the holding force, but by no means are the lug studs and the corresponding holes in the rim the bearing surface for the weight of the motorhome. That job is done by the flange. Tightening the lug nuts on a hub centric system only has the effect of increasing the surface friction between the two faces. Take a look at my other video at this time stamp: th-cam.com/video/0jA2TIbdhMk/w-d-xo.html You can see just how much play there is between the lug holes and the lug studs. It's clear in this video that the rim is held in place by the hub flange. Even though I have the lug nuts here loosened the same movement could occur under load even with the lug nuts torqued to spec. Keep in mind that I was hearing a "CLUNK" noise when I slammed on the accelerator. Meaning that the lug nuts were allowing the wheel to spin until the rim hit the studs. Because of the tolerance between the hub flange and the rim, there is not enough moment in the vertical direction to allow the rim to slide so far that the studs contact the lug holes. That can only happen in rotational movement not vertical movement. There is a tiny bit of movement possible in the vertical direction, but it is very small.
Moreover, the force required to propel the motor home forward is far less than the force to hold the motor home up off the ground. Think about when you hit a pothole, or washboard? Driving over those those terrain obstacles is like hitting the whole system with an impact driver. We know how effective impact drivers are at removing rusty/stuck bolts. No matter how tight you have the lug nuts, the surface friction between the wheel and hub will not hold the wheel in place during these adverse driving conditions. That job is done by the hub flange. Think of it as a mortise and tenon joint. The lug nuts just sort of hold it in place and provide enough surface friction to resist (not impede) rotational movement and vertical sliding movement between wheel and hub. So, it's like an added strength, but the primary weight bearing happens on the hub flange. That's how the engineers intended it.
@@IndustriousPursuits Respectfully, Kent is correct. Vertical loads are held by the friction of the mating surface only - whether hub centric or lug centric. Indeed, most hub centric rings that are made for adapting aftermarket wheels to different sized hubs are made out of soft aluminum or even plastic. They absolutely are not designed to support the weight of the vehicle - only to center the wheel on the hub.
@@McGurble Are you trolling? The aftermarket will sell you anything. Plastic hub centric adapter rings are a death trap unless used with lug centric rims. Which is how they are used 99% of the time. Because they are plastic they do absolutely nothing, and are a complete waste of money. The lug nuts will center the rim where they want and will compress the plastic adapter if there is a discrepancy.
You said "Vertical loads are held by the friction of the mating surface only...[on] lug centric [wheels]."
This is patently false. Lug centric wheel attachment has a 45° cone to the lug nuts and a corresponding 45° chamfer to the inside of the lug holes on the rim. These two surfaces mate and center the lug stud inside the hole. A 45 degree hole and cone mating split the clamping force equally in two directions. This is proven by a concept from engineering called "force vectoring." www.dummies.com/education/science/physics/force-is-a-vector/) Therefore, each lug nut is providing 50% of it's strength to holding the rim in place resisting the planar forces forces acting in the vertical direction and also torsion (ie. spinning during acceleration and braking). The other 50% holds the rim to the hub in order to counteract forces from leaning during cornering or other such driving conditions that put a side load on the tire such as an angled side slipping road. Of course there is the added benefit of increased friction between the rim and hub which increases the holding strength of the connection resisting afore mentioned planar movements, but the engineers did not design the rim with this as the primary holding force. I doubt they even considered it in their calculations for lug centric wheels.
@@IndustriousPursuits I promise, I'm not trolling! Since I'm just a random internet person, here is a long article discussing failure modes and engineering principles behind wheel attachment methods. It gets quite into the weeds, but here is a relevant excerpt:
It has been reported in the literature [11] that a hub-piloted wheel attachment system actually provides additional support for the wheel in that a portion of the vertical road-load forces is transferred directly to the hub through contact between the wheel center hole and the hub. This is not correct! Just as in the bolt-piloted systems, all road loads are transferred from the hub-piloted wheel to the hub through the friction connection provided by the nut clamp force and the shear and bending forces applied through the nut to the wheel bolt.
link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11668-017-0297-0#:%7E:text=The%20mechanics%20of%20securing%20the,its%20mating%20component%2C%20and%20the
Great job don't forget to tighten the bushings While under load wen the motorhome rests on its wheels.
I got a roadtrech smaller rig rv. I almost bought a GMC but it was too much for me . For each his own. But I love these videos what attention to detail.
Wow, those spacers will certainly put a stress load on the ball-joints, front hub bearings, and affect the turning scrub radius of you front wheels unless you're using rims to correctly place the wheel center to the original offset.
As a note of interest, the GMC RTS II gets its roots all the way back to 1964 but eventually debuted in 1977. I bring this up because the curvy automobile like body of these motor homes have uncanny similarities to the RTS II. Maybe quite possibly both city bus and motor home we’re drawn up at the same time as a concept in 1964?
Bolts with pits are much more likely to fail. Pits cause stress risers
The wheel bearings are larger due to the spacer, and the extra force that you talked about. I wonder how it would work to simply turn the wheel around, Leave the spacer off, and weld a, (Hat, Cone, shield,) onto the wheel to protect the rotor. But keeping the attachment point inboard where it was originally.?
Love your channel. I just purchased a 1973 GMC. I love everything about it except the stance. I can't stand a vehicle where the front end sticks up in the air. My Chevy G20 was the same. I lowered it and now it looks great. I also did the same with my 1981 Toyota Pickup by unscrewing the Torsion bars. I was wondering if that same thing could be done on these Motorhomes without screwing something up.
Doing similar with my 75 Palmbeach affecionately named Joe Cool...Because snoopy is on either side. For me I am doing the interior first from a to zed.
The torsion bar bolts could probably be replaced with the longer bolts without full length threads since the last 1/2 to 3/4 inch cannot engage the threads due to the eye that it passes through on the end of the torsion bar anyway.
A nice idea, but false. There is no eye. The bolt must be fully threaded for full travel.
You said you worked in San Diego so being in the fast lane at 55 mph is not unusual in California, drivers in California do not know how to use the Passing Lane, in Fact, if you ask the California driver what is the passing lane they look at you quizzically with an "Uhhhh"...thats the right lane where the trucks are" ...you can always tell the California Driver, in the Fast lane/passing lane on cruise control and they won't move over, So, great vid, never mine my sound off, I'l be watching, i love the old M H, its the simplicity, no circuit boards no chips hard wire, Thanks
Drive right not in the passing lane
The barrel as you call on the connector is called a OLIVE ! Thats what we call them in the uk !
Ferrule is what we call it around here (or compression sleeve)
Danger. you need the brass insert that fits inside your plastic line, as you have it now the plastic line can slip out of your copper compression fitting. available at your hardware store. better safe than sorry. nice build
Check Tacoma Screw for your bolt.
I dont know if you have heard of or watched the TV show young sheldon but in season 3 episode 13 they have a full restored mint gmc motor home i got excited when I saw it and thought of your channel
What about your dissimilar metal issues on your wheel/ adapters.
Your Wheel spacers should not add much leverage to your bearings because your wheels are dished in to compensate so the tire is still basically under the bearings. In other words The Rim and spacer kind of cancel each other out
I have a 1981 revcon motorhome RV
Great video. Did you get the axles from manny? What is the oem Application
Yes I did get them from Manny. It's so much easier than doing it yourself. Half shafts are for a 1988 - 91 four wheel drive, one ton Chevy or GMC truck. Here is the DIY guide: www.bdub.net/One%20Ton%20Truck%20Front%20Suspension%20Conversion.pdf
Is red loctite the recommended one for that application?
I thought that too... only use red if you hate the next guy taking it apart! (He's you. You're the next guy.)
Alternatives to battery acid exist
Have you considered muriatic acid? Available from big box hardware stores. Used in swimming pools. I used to see phosphoric acid as well in the mansonry department there but havent seen it lately ( in california, that is ) Phosphoric acts like a rust converter.
Electrolysis works too. It takes a battery charger, and washing soda available in the supermarket detergent area .TH-cam has info on this.
Yeah, I just had the battery acid on hand from the last project and I hadn't yet neutralized it for disposal. Might as well get two uses out of it.
Why do people still use the name muriatic acid? That's just a very long obsolete name for hydrochloric acid.
unless you washed that beach sand ??? beach sand has salt in it . vinegar and a bit of time soaking is a great rust dissolver remover
Built starting in seventy three and they were probably working on it for a few years before that....wrong. That work was done by Revcon.
GMC coaches are fine if that's what you want. Good videos.
Did the RV come with those huge wheel spacers on it?
Why wheel spacer? Not safe
Your son is adorable.
Where was this video a few months ago, I just installed the one ton front end myself earlier this year
Sorry, I do the work when I can.
@@IndustriousPursuits Haha, you're still making progress faster than I am. It's very motivating to see everything coming along on your side. Thanks for the effort put into documenting everything you've done so far, it's really appreciated!
Where did you get your portable sandblaster gun? Harbor Freight?
Yep.
The fitting is a ferrule, not a barrel…
And you can purchase new ferrules at most hardware/plumbing stores.
You are really really overthinking the hub spacers.
Did you watch the next video explaining the engineering behind the kit and the spacers?
Is the guy you got your front end parts still in business?
Yes. Manny's transmission in the Bay area. You can find his website.
@@IndustriousPursuits thanks 😊
Those poor wheel bearings with those spacers on.
1:49... If the workers were paid half as much as the fantastic designers, they'd have done a better job. You (don't) get what you (don't) pay for.
It was 1978. The workers were paid quite well compared to today (real wages) and a starter home only cost like $20,000. They had no excuse. It was just the unionized Detroit worker culture. Of course the pendulum has swung too far today with all the jobs going to China and Michigan now being a "Right to Work" state. Also, remember Ford adopted the motto "Quality is job 1" in 1981 to differentiate their brand and indirectly call out GM for low quality production. here is a graph showing just how crazy low real wages have fallen relative to housing prices: edge.alluremedia.com.au/uploads/businessinsider/2018/03/grattan-house-prices-Vs-wages.jpg
@@IndustriousPursuits yeah, GM "quality" was getting pretty bad in the late 70's. They didn't yet see Japanese imports as a threat, and aside from rust protection, the Japanese were hot on build quality - thanks to an American the American companies refused to listen to. One of Japan's most prestigious awards in business has that American's name on it! Edwards Deming. Had GM, Ford, and Chrysler paid attention to him in the 70's, Japanese Imports would have had a MUCH tougher time getting such a large chunk of the market in the US.
So...watch your own enthusiasm in the first couple minutes. Now tell us that this doesn't deserve an excellent exterior finish.
I would advise you learn to weld. It's not hard. I learned on one day. Get a cheap Harbor Freight welder and get sheet metal. Unless you are seeking collector quality fix. You should weld and fix those metals.
It wasn't clear to me if you got a new air tank or painted up the old one. Can you please clarify?
Are you not showing product names on purpose?
Yes. Sometimes. There are lots of brands that do the same thing. I have zero confidence that whatever brand I happen to be using is the best one, also viewers in different countries have different brands available. No sense struggling to find the exact thing I'm using and paying a premium for it. When I'm convinced that a certain brand is worth talking about I will show and talk about it.
Maybe get new wheels?
Then the front and rear wheels would be different and I would need to carry 2 spares.
Yeah, treat yourself and get 7 new wheels. All matching. You’ve gone this far with the 1-ton FE, don’t cheap out now.
can I email you directly?
Click on my channel name. Then click the "About" tab to find the email address.
I want to sale mine ,76 in north fla