Very impressive and attractive looking NYC rr Hudson locomotive model from Bachmann, I am almost tempted to purchase one of these models for myself. This seems like an impressive model and I am somewhat interested in steam engines, sometimes I wish that I modeled the steam era as many attractive steam engine models have been produced over the past 10 years in ho scale- Tom.
This was occurring in a tunnel. Although I had access to the area, I could not see exactly what was happening. I tried just about everything I could think of. It turned out that the foam bumper on the tender was sticking out too far, and the back of the locomotive's cab hit it on the curve, derailing the tender's front truck. This was with the tender's post in the longest separation hole in the drawbar. I trimmed the back of the foam, shoved it back into its recess and this provided more distance from the back of the cab. Problem solved.
I can't imagine why there would be "foam" in there at all...🤔 Packing maybe? For shipping from the factory..? Have you tried just taking it out? I know there's almost always a wad of foam wedged between the engine and tender when shipped from the manufacturer. It is intended to be removed...🤔 I would think by removing it, you could attach the engine back closer to the tender, which would look much better...no "foam" belongs on your locomotive during operation...!
It's part of the model. It fills most of the gap between the tender and the back of the cab. It may have been cut incorrectly and was too long. Cutting it back solved the problem and now I can connect the engine and tender in the closer drawbar hole since my smallest radius is 22". @@wobblinwheel
I have one and think it is a very nicely detailed model of a J3 at a reasonable price (bought it from Trainworld). The only complaint is that the front truck of the tender derails. No other car or locomotive derails on this 24" radius derails at this spot. Other than that I love this locomotive.
I would take off the bottom plate to make sure the main gear is not cracked and then if it's not cracked make sure none of the value gear is bent sometimes the get bent a little bit and it's just enough to cause it to hit something when it's running
@@NSProductions-jt5sh I think the USA needs to catch up with digital stuff though. Cause just as we start using 21- pin England and Europe are going to Plux22 or next 18 pin for small engines. If I were to describe the motion of the tech. Europe starts with all the new tech, England becomes a mishmash of the new and the last gen, and America finally gets the new stuff right when Europe moves on to something else. Just what I’ve seen from buying models recently
Very impressive and attractive looking NYC rr Hudson locomotive model from Bachmann, I am almost tempted to purchase one of these models for myself. This seems like an impressive model and I am somewhat interested in steam engines, sometimes I wish that I modeled the steam era as many attractive steam engine models have been produced over the past 10 years in ho scale- Tom.
Waiting for the streamlined version...ICONIC (I hate that word)
This was occurring in a tunnel. Although I had access to the area, I could not see exactly what was happening. I tried just about everything I could think of.
It turned out that the foam bumper on the tender was sticking out too far, and the back of the locomotive's cab hit it on the curve, derailing the tender's front truck. This was with the tender's post in the longest separation hole in the drawbar. I trimmed the back of the foam, shoved it back into its recess and this provided more distance from the back of the cab. Problem solved.
I can't imagine why there would be "foam" in there at all...🤔 Packing maybe? For shipping from the factory..? Have you tried just taking it out? I know there's almost always a wad of foam wedged between the engine and tender when shipped from the manufacturer. It is intended to be removed...🤔 I would think by removing it, you could attach the engine back closer to the tender, which would look much better...no "foam" belongs on your locomotive during operation...!
It's part of the model. It fills most of the gap between the tender and the back of the cab. It may have been cut incorrectly and was too long. Cutting it back solved the problem and now I can connect the engine and tender in the closer drawbar hole since my smallest radius is 22".
@@wobblinwheel
I have one and think it is a very nicely detailed model of a J3 at a reasonable price (bought it from Trainworld). The only complaint is that the front truck of the tender derails. No other car or locomotive derails on this 24" radius derails at this spot. Other than that I love this locomotive.
That's weird I run mine on 22 and I have no problems
Well, why dont you fix that part o the track(s) where the train falls off? 🤔
It's been a work in progress
Got my j3a this Christmas it’s making a small clicking noise when running please help
I would take off the bottom plate to make sure the main gear is not cracked and then if it's not cracked make sure none of the value gear is bent sometimes the get bent a little bit and it's just enough to cause it to hit something when it's running
Thanks for the review. Are you saying in addition to the diecast boiler shell and chassis there’s also a separate additional weight inside the boiler?
No but the frame fills up tue boiler
@@NSProductions-jt5sh thanks
I don’t even think BLI does a good cab. The British tend to do great cabs. Germans and American manufacturers not so much
I definitely agree the British manufacturers do alot more when it comes to the cabs
@@NSProductions-jt5sh I think the USA needs to catch up with digital stuff though. Cause just as we start using 21- pin England and Europe are going to Plux22 or next 18 pin for small engines. If I were to describe the motion of the tech. Europe starts with all the new tech, England becomes a mishmash of the new and the last gen, and America finally gets the new stuff right when Europe moves on to something else. Just what I’ve seen from buying models recently