Thank you for making this series, it is very helpful. I'm curious why the suitcase system is the exception when connecting the controller first vs the battery first. It's interesting that when the panels arrive from the company the controller is already connected. I disconnected mine...then I watched your video and learned about the exception.
For those still visiting this site the workaround to Renogy's "'exception" is to simply unplug the + MC4 connection between the solar panel and charge controller, then connect the battery to the charge controller. Doing it this way eliminates any risk of the solar panels damaging the charge controller without a battery connected to it. The risk is low but still a risk.
Great videos, but I use briefcase panels to go into a goal zero yeti lithium power station inside my TT, so there is no standalone charge controller needed or battery clamps used. But still great info
I have watched your videos on this subject with interest. I have a question about fuses that I do not think that you have addressed. When adding an inline fuse between the controller and the battery, should it be placed close to the battery or to the controller, or does it even matter?
I discuss fuses in Video 4, and the scope of my comments should be limited to portable suitcase solar panels. The purpose of a fuse is to protect the wiring. There should be a fuse between the charge controller and battery as the battery, with it's massive energy could discharge into a faulty charge controller and damage the wiring or set the charge controller on fire. Between the charge controller and solar panel it is not really required in my view as the wiring should be heavy enough to handle all of the solar panel current - even if there was a direct short at the charge controller. So if you put a fuse in this circuit, the solar panel would never blow the fuse. If the battery were to discharge into a bad charge controller, and then from the charge controller discharge into into the solar panel, then that could be a source of energy large enough to damage the panel. However, if there is a fuse between the battery and charge controller, it will prevent that from happening. So in my opinion, a fuse should be placed between the battery and charge controller. A fuse between the charge controller and solar panel is optional/not necessary in my view. A fuse would be required at the solar panels for large - multi-panel arrays, but not a suitcase setup. I'll go back and watch video 4 and see if I need to add anything.
I have a furrion factory connection on my rv , and bought a 100w portable panel with charge control, pretty straightforward.. but before I got this set up, I had installed a pigtail QD for my battery maintainer direct to the batteries for a trickle charger when parked not being used. My question is, can I use that pigtail simultaneously with a separate 100 w portable panel, and my furrion connected panel? In theory giving me 200 watts? Or should I just connect them for the furrion, and not use the direct pigtail except for the trickle storage charge. Thanks in advance Rich
I have 325 W of rooftop solar with its charge controller and I'd like to get an additional 100 W suitcase solar panel with its own controller. Can I simply alligator clip the suitcase solar to the battery posts? I have two lithium batteries. Thanks
While it can sometimes be done with portable panels, each having their own controller, I never like using multiple battery chargers simultaneously (a charge controller is essentially a battery charger). So I dont recommend it. There is potentially going to be some interaction between the chargers given that the typical charger is a smart charger. A charger changes its charge state depending on the voltage it senses at the battery. And different charge controllers have different charge profiles, depending on the model and mfg. All this means that the controllers might trick each other into the wrong charge state, which at a minimum can affect charge performance. Especially with Lithium batteries, they are finicky in their charge requirements and may not like the particular charger interaction. It would be far better to integrate the new panel with the existing ones prior to the panel connection to the charge controller. That way a single charge controller is used. How hard that is depends on how your other panels are configured (series or parallel) and where the charge controller is. If it is a series configuration (the most efficient for multiple panels), then each panel should be identical. As well, your charge controller would need to have the additional capacity for the new panel. And you would need some sort of bypass for when you are not using the portable panel.
I was wondering if you hook this up to the battery will it do any harm to the 110 volt to 12 volt converter? Realizing but you're probably boondocking and not plugged in to 110 volts.
I've had my Renogy 100watt suitcase for 3 years now and love it!
Are you finding that my estimate of 100W for a single RV deep cycle battery sufficient?
I bought 2 Reneogy 50 Watt panels for $100.00. then bought hinges. Turned into a suitcase. Bought a 200 watt Solar generator. Works awesome!
Looking forward to this series; thanks!
Hope you enjoy it!
I learned a ton from this video series. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Exactly what I’m trying to sort out for our RV for next year.
Thank you for supporting the channel.
I always learn things I didn’t know, thanks for the video.
Happy to help!
Great video!
Not sure why manufacturers use a black frame. After setting out in the sun, one needs to have oven mitts to move them.
good point
I went with a flexible suitcase system. It's very light,
The flexible solar panels are nice, but I went with the more traditional panel as I figured it would appeal to a larger audience.
Renogy also sell a 100watt folding panel called the eclipse..costs a a bit more..ot would be good to see a comparison to see if it's worth the extra
“Candy Cane, come in Candy Cane”
Thank you for making this series, it is very helpful. I'm curious why the suitcase system is the exception when connecting the controller first vs the battery first. It's interesting that when the panels arrive from the company the controller is already connected. I disconnected mine...then I watched your video and learned about the exception.
RVProject passed earlier this year. RIP
For those still visiting this site the workaround to Renogy's "'exception" is to simply unplug the + MC4 connection between the solar panel and charge controller, then connect the battery to the charge controller. Doing it this way eliminates any risk of the solar panels damaging the charge controller without a battery connected to it. The risk is low but still a risk.
@@gr7485 Good plan.
Great videos, but I use briefcase panels to go into a goal zero yeti lithium power station inside my TT, so there is no standalone charge controller needed or battery clamps used. But still great info
Most of the "solar generator" type battery units; Goal Zero, Jackery, et al have charge controllers built into the unit itself.
I have watched your videos on this subject with interest. I have a question about fuses that I do not think that you have addressed. When adding an inline fuse between the controller and the battery, should it be placed close to the battery or to the controller, or does it even matter?
I discuss fuses in Video 4, and the scope of my comments should be limited to portable suitcase solar panels.
The purpose of a fuse is to protect the wiring. There should be a fuse between the charge controller and battery as the battery, with it's massive energy could discharge into a faulty charge controller and damage the wiring or set the charge controller on fire.
Between the charge controller and solar panel it is not really required in my view as the wiring should be heavy enough to handle all of the solar panel current - even if there was a direct short at the charge controller.
So if you put a fuse in this circuit, the solar panel would never blow the fuse.
If the battery were to discharge into a bad charge controller, and then from the charge controller discharge into into the solar panel, then that could be a source of energy large enough to damage the panel. However, if there is a fuse between the battery and charge controller, it will prevent that from happening.
So in my opinion, a fuse should be placed between the battery and charge controller. A fuse between the charge controller and solar panel is optional/not necessary in my view.
A fuse would be required at the solar panels for large - multi-panel arrays, but not a suitcase setup.
I'll go back and watch video 4 and see if I need to add anything.
@@RVProject Thanks so much for your reply. I too will go back and review your 4th video to see what I may have missed. You are a good teacher!
I have a furrion factory connection on my rv , and bought a 100w portable panel with charge control, pretty straightforward.. but before I got this set up, I had installed a pigtail QD for my battery maintainer direct to the batteries for a trickle charger when parked not being used. My question is, can I use that pigtail simultaneously with a separate 100 w portable panel, and my furrion connected panel?
In theory giving me 200 watts? Or should I just connect them for the furrion, and not use the direct pigtail except for the trickle storage charge. Thanks in advance
Rich
It depends on where your charge controller is. You always need a charge controller between your solar panels and battery.
Good video
Thanks
I have 325 W of rooftop solar with its charge controller and I'd like to get an additional 100 W suitcase solar panel with its own controller. Can I simply alligator clip the suitcase solar to the battery posts? I have two lithium batteries. Thanks
While it can sometimes be done with portable panels, each having their own controller, I never like using multiple battery chargers simultaneously (a charge controller is essentially a battery charger). So I dont recommend it.
There is potentially going to be some interaction between the chargers given that the typical charger is a smart charger.
A charger changes its charge state depending on the voltage it senses at the battery. And different charge controllers have different charge profiles, depending on the model and mfg.
All this means that the controllers might trick each other into the wrong charge state, which at a minimum can affect charge performance.
Especially with Lithium batteries, they are finicky in their charge requirements and may not like the particular charger interaction.
It would be far better to integrate the new panel with the existing ones prior to the panel connection to the charge controller. That way a single charge controller is used.
How hard that is depends on how your other panels are configured (series or parallel) and where the charge controller is. If it is a series configuration (the most efficient for multiple panels), then each panel should be identical.
As well, your charge controller would need to have the additional capacity for the new panel.
And you would need some sort of bypass for when you are not using the portable panel.
@@RVProject Thank you so much. I appreciate your help.
I was wondering if you hook this up to the battery will it do any harm to the 110 volt to 12 volt converter? Realizing but you're probably boondocking and not plugged in to 110 volts.
There should be no issues, but generally you will only be using the solar panels in a boondocking situation.
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, swee
Why no close captioned?
Takes a lot of time. I do this for a hobby.
What happened to your website.
He passed away a while back.
Prime shows
I'm a Fake Person giving a Fake Opinion . So Believe everything I say.... Buy Candles..
Thanks for watching... I guess.