When I used to design satellite receivers, we used 2 flash banks, and the last bit we used to write was the bank selection bit. When booting we made a checksum on the flash bank we wanted to boot to, and if it was not correct we booted to the other bank. I guess most satellite receivers do it this way, unless money has become such an important factor that they only afford a single bank. In case a single NAND flash with file system, the file system of choice should be able to handle power drops. So what I wanted to say is that it's not very likely that a power drop during a write to flash is destructive. We were scared as hell of this scenario and it was probably the most tested feature of the box.
Since this is a common device for you that bring in $, perhaps you should photograph the pcb and get volt readings for each supply and cold resistance values to ground from various points? Good video :)
Hi Peter. A nice suggestion, however I do know from experience these boxes normally switch on when power is applied without pressing the switch. Still I can check the switch of course 🙂
I'd reflow the BGA chips, nothing to lose. Has worked for me in TVs where they run hot with undersized heat sinks. It's possible a firmware update failed due to the caps giving up and a rail not being strong enough during flashing.
Anyone who has a 100% success rate on repairs is pulling your leg, mate. I'm yet to see a fair dinkum repair channel that says anything otherwise even if they don't show unrepairable jobs on their channel.
the reason some youtubers can fix anything they find is they have created the fault , not everything on the the net is real 🤣🤣🤣 , its always better to show real fix's and as everyday is a school day , you can learn just as much from a failed repair
I have a humax satellite recorder with two inputs. Worked occasionally, but some recordings failed. Changed the drive & the caps and appeared to work for a while, then the same issue, so I purchased the small humax receiver similar to yours. Fingers crossed.
When I used to design satellite receivers, we used 2 flash banks, and the last bit we used to write was the bank selection bit. When booting we made a checksum on the flash bank we wanted to boot to, and if it was not correct we booted to the other bank. I guess most satellite receivers do it this way, unless money has become such an important factor that they only afford a single bank. In case a single NAND flash with file system, the file system of choice should be able to handle power drops. So what I wanted to say is that it's not very likely that a power drop during a write to flash is destructive. We were scared as hell of this scenario and it was probably the most tested feature of the box.
A reflash couldfix it, bit Richard isa noob at software ! Cheers...
Since this is a common device for you that bring in $, perhaps you should photograph the pcb and get volt readings for each supply and cold resistance values to ground from various points?
Good video :)
Is the switch-on button working correctly? Can you bridge that just to see what happens?
Hi Peter. A nice suggestion, however I do know from experience these boxes normally switch on when power is applied without pressing the switch. Still I can check the switch of course 🙂
I'd reflow the BGA chips, nothing to lose. Has worked for me in TVs where they run hot with undersized heat sinks. It's possible a firmware update failed due to the caps giving up and a rail not being strong enough during flashing.
And do a reflash, but he is a noob at software !
It's showing some UART header? Might it output some log there?
Agreed .. It probably “bricked” itself.
Heya, you could do some resistance and or diode mesuerment but that they pense on the prse of a new 1 I quess
Wonder if you could nab a flash chip from one of the other scrap boards.
Yeah I can do that. I have some PCBs that power and on 'work' but are useless as they have been blocked by the service provider
Did he check the power switch?
Yes, we can ! you can, I cant :D
is the clock clocking ?
That "BCR" regulator shouldn't have 0 volts if it's getting hot.
It isn't getting hot
Anyone who has a 100% success rate on repairs is pulling your leg, mate. I'm yet to see a fair dinkum repair channel that says anything otherwise even if they don't show unrepairable jobs on their channel.
Yeah I was being a bit tongue in cheek there 😋
Am I the only one who thought the thumbnail was a horrible mis-spelling of “Human Being”? 😂
lol
What is taking 200ma?
According to the thermal camera the ASIC/CPU is
@@LearnElectronicsRepair yeah that's dead.
thats dead humax bein dr! 😝
sounds like a software bricked device, pretty sad though
the reason some youtubers can fix anything they find is they have created the fault , not everything on the the net is real 🤣🤣🤣 , its always better to show real fix's and as everyday is a school day , you can learn just as much from a failed repair
I have a humax satellite recorder with two inputs. Worked occasionally, but some recordings failed. Changed the drive & the caps and appeared to work for a while, then the same issue, so I purchased the small humax receiver similar to yours. Fingers crossed.
The standard is the big white part of the capacitor is the negative. If some manufacturer don't respect that it's really bad