ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I finish make a permanent bracket for my fuel pressure regulator. Finally got my puller e fan and radiator mounted for good. Wired in some injector dynamics 1050x injectors the official way and some more! This video is very long but we all want to see the car driving so I decided to include all the button up in this video so we can drive it next! I hope you all enjoy ❤
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sorry for not uploading very often! i've been putting an insane amount of time and thought into making sure everything is exactly how i've always wanted it to be. it'll all be worth it in the end!
Good luck 🤞🏽
Don’t worry bro the quality on the vids is unmatched, we see how much time you put into each one
on god ^
well worth every wait 💯
Bro make these videos longer don’t be shy😳
Don’t worry bro, we love the long videos! Longer quality videos are better than short videos that you try to put out quick!
💯
i love these long videos
Thanks for the content Joel
I've had my Spal 16in fan installed on my e36 mishimoto radiator like this in my e30. It's worked for me just fine the last 2 years.
I respect the amount of editing that went into this 1 hour video.
Hi Joel, I heard you say you were using lead free solder. A lot of what soldering comes down to using the right solder wire for the job. If you don't then it wont adhere to the wire very well (especially bare copper). That is why you were seeing it bead up and run off the wire. You can buy the wire in different blends (the ratio of tin to lead); for example I use 63-37 rosin core. Certain wire will also come with a small percentage of flux already formed into the wire. With the temperature it depends on how thick your solder wire is as well as your electrical wire gauge. Usually I keep mine set at 370 C or about 700 F. That temperature does most of the standard pre tinned wire and coated wire. Bare copper usually needs a bit more attention. Keep up the good work man!
Also the dirty/oxidized copper is a real pain and wear a mask with leaded solder or a very open area.
Dang bout time bro, been waiting… I was watching the last video , on repeat 3 days straight 😂
YUUUUHHHH ITS SO CLOSE. bro it's okay were all still happily sitting here waiting for it to drive in the next video
I LOVE THESE LONG VIDEOS SO MUCH!!! I literally just turn the video on and eat some food and just enjoy lol great work joel keep it up brother!!
Bro your vids working on this car are relatable asf🤣
I used carbide burr in a die grinder to cut through the bush radially and break the press fit
Yesssirrr, shit looks so good, you inspired me to rebuild my vr6 bro you the goat 🐐 🐐
I fix robots for a living, and do a lot of soldering. I think it would greatly help you to shorten the wires slightly so you have a better chance of clean/non-corroded wires, add flux first(it helps the solder flow once the solder liquifies), you want to “tin” each wire separately(cover the bare copper in solder with a little bit extra solder), once both wires are tinned, you want to support one with something so it doesn’t move, hold the other one with your hand, and you want to basically warm both of them together. If done right, the solder will flow really smoothly and fully encapsulate both wires!
These videos are so good yo. It shows what it’s really like to work in cars with the good bad and ugly. Keep it up Joel ur the goat fr (for real)
you can order from injector dinymaics for crimps... ORDER PIGTAILS , they are pre crimped short wires for your injectors.
wow this car looks so good
Bro finally I was like today couple hours ago when is this guy going to upload and the dream came true 🙂
Joel! Appreciate for that video LOVING the content and all "tests" you were given by car!!! Thank you for explaining some stuff and sharing with us
that valve cover looks so fire.
Yo man, I work in the electronics industry and Lead free solder is a PAIN. Especially if its high temp, it just doesn't flow without the correct techniques. Even i struggle with lead free. Next time like others have commented, try leaded solder. It's so much easier to flow and control. Plus getting the correct wetted joint (the purity of the joint) is so much easier to do. Im in the UK however, so not sure on the sates legislation, especially in states like california.
Side note, I hope your Paps is doing better after his op.
I love these longer videos man.
Not long enough!!! 6hr episodes please, i have too much time and not enough vids 💀💀
😂 @ 104.15 sorry you hurt your finger but that reaction 🤪😂😂🤣😭😭 sounded like a a TRex..... Great video though 👍👍
If you want to make your soldering job easier and better, do not use lead free solder. They are fine for like industrial use, where they boil up a lot, and then dip down one side of the PCB to solder the THT components, but for these kind of works... it's not really good.
I cant wait for the doordash videos in this.
Great work man!
Make the video 2 hours, I honestly don't care how long the videos are. Very good/informational vid 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Wow. So tidy.
Love these long videos!
Dope I was waiting forever for the new video 🤣 but great timing cuz.. your Turbo build was completed on the same time of my SC build on my E46 M
Seriously need some euro spec bumpers, those are just super nasty, like benches 😂
Ah hell yeah
love the video and content watched from start to finish
I have that fan in my turbo m52 e30. It doesn’t keep it cool not enough cfm’s
No problem i still watch not long good content bro i would like to ask Yu a question about the fifth gear lean I'm having that problem so i want to ask Yu where can i get the parts and also the tools to do the work. I'm the bus driver that was talking to you on Berlin turnpike when you was driving ur E46 drift car bless up bro love ur content bredrin
Great job. The bumpers are fugly though I'd change them for euro ones.
cooming for you joel
I had my SPAL fan mounted in a pull config too, but ran into a lot of clearance issues where it would move when driving and hit the water pump. It ended up destroying part of the fan and I went back to an OE push fan. Did you have to do anything special to get it to clear? Would love to go back to the pull fan for when I start prepping the build for boost.
Make video on how to use vems please!
put a filter in on ur turbo my friend?
Hey mate do not solder, just buy some cheap multi jaw crimpers and crimp that wires, think about the amp draw of that fan, that soldering IS NOT up to the task. Oh and please, redo that fan wiring and eliminate that 3 joints after the plug.
bro you need a fan shroud
And hey joel which electric ratchet do you use?
Your work is mint you pay so much attention to detail top work dude but please loose those horrible Yankee spec bumpers!!!
😮💨😮💨💪🏽💪🏽
🎉🎉
Cool shit mane
The soldering part was hilarious... and I felt it... since the same happens to me every time.
Love the long format content. Amazing work on the car !
Last year in my sophomore year of hs, it was how I felt when I first soldered, I was just thinking I was gonna mess it all up but i was able to cover it and get a good grade from it😭
The only TH-camr I would watch that make this long of vids 😂😂😂
Great video, on the soldering of old copper wires you need to clean that dirty copper if you want it to go smoother. Maybe wire brush, and it’s way to hot your burning it up to where it just repels the Solder. Move your heat around , take it off and put iron back on as needed . It don’t take near the heat you had . I only know from same mistakes myself. The paste helps also. Try to get the copper shinny before trying . Don’t keep the iron on the wire constantly. Good luck with the next one brother . Love the build it’s sick!!
As much as I admire the work that you put on this beauty, but deleting the ABS on this car is a very bad idea, these cars are not stable since they don't have an ESP system and with that much power, braking in corners with high speed will have a catastrophic consequences. I'm new here so I don't know if this is a drift car or not but either ways, you gonna need a roll cage for sure.
i really love theese videos because its the first ive seen with someone actually working on a build and recording everything, taught me alot about how its actually like vs how its supposed to be
keep it up!
for soldering, try tinning your wires individually first, it sometimes makes it a bit easier to get the solder evenly dispersed :)
1:13:33 path of least resistance you would have been most likely fine. Metal is more conductive then flesh. You would have gotten burned if you left it on.
24:30 more then likely your iron doesn’t have enough power or your tip is way to small to small to transfer the heat into the copper for soldering.
Bottle of beer on Friday and Joel with a new long upload. Love it ❤️
bottle of beer, im sippin a nice cold bottle of water
Were all proud of you bro, big accomplishment, all the work 100% pays off 😬
You always posting on lunch break w joel
It looks like your issue soldering is that the solder you're using is trash. "Lead free" solder needs to get really hot to melt which is not what you want. Get something with lead in it, my personal favorite is 62/36/2 which is basically 62% tin, 36% lead 2% silver.
Never have I wanted to watch a video so long in my life I swear if you posted a 10 hour video my dumbass would sit and watch all 10 hours. Love the build and love how you show us the mistakes people can make doing this keep it up
I’d rather wait for a 1 hour video than a short one, thanks Joel🤝
I learned when it doesn’t soder the wire is contaminated try sliding a razor blade over the copper wire, it shaves a bit of the surface and exposes the bare metal
Either that flux is trash or your solder isn't good either. Get quality rosin core leaded solder. IMHO that's what works best, doesn't need extra flux since it's in it, and the fact it has lead means it's easier to get a good melt throughout the whole wire without burning all the insulation since it's a much colder melting point.
I can't say for that kit but most cheap soldering kits I've used came with solder that was borderline unusable, so that might be your case here. You might also wanna use a wider bigger tip for thick wire like that, you're using more of an electronic/motherboard fixing type of tip.
Edit : Saw you changed the tip, so disregard that part.
dont use the adaptors on 1050x's !!! look up spank ranch garage... he tests them, junk. i tried them first with my 1050s .. issues.... just grab one pin on the adaptors, they are so loose
I do lots of soldering at work, and the issue your experiencing is the result of contaminants. You need to clean the wires prior to soldering. Also, buy some 70/30 resin core solder. Use extra flux if its still not amalgamating.
No hate on the welds joel, but u gotta cut ur wire & start it with new filler, Starting it with a glob on the end makes it spark cause the arc length is too far away. Just food for thought. I love your videos & you are amazing to watch work. Keep it up!!!!
yo bro love the content. It makes me happy, smile, laugh, and teaches me a lot and that you have the best camera in the world it feels like i am using a 4k 1980 by 1080p hd screen 😁👍
Get a proper iron. A TS100 would work without melting the insulation. that iron is shit. Also for electronics connectors and such digikey, newark, or mouser is your friend
Great vids man from CT too 😁 but when I had to extend my Kawasaki z125 head light wires I went to harbor freight and they have those plastic heat shrink kinda soldering tubes u use heat and it melts the solder balls with heat gun just an idea 👍
58:15 don't get caught drowning 😩😭🤞🏼
Wondered why it’s was taking a while to upload to see it’s over an hour video, props bro 🤝
Was starting to miss you uploads, then this finally popped in my feed! Perfect video to watch while I'm waiting on some car parts to arrive.
Great video. Love watching you put things together and learn from your mistake. It is all part of monkey wrenching.
Are you crimping butt connectors with the wire cutter? You're supposed to use the cutouts and protrusions on the inside of the handles like a nut cracker.
What a Journey, I really don't mind the long videos! Almost feels like I'm in the room. Def get zoned out! Keep it up MAN!!! Been trying to do something with my M50!!
Lead-free solder is kinda shit which is why you had a bad time soldering. Next time try the usual leaded solder and it will spread through the wire like it should. :)
I really prefer this long videos for sure.
For soldering i believe you want to be at 350F in order to not burn the wires as fast, and you gotta use a good amount of flux not too much tho or else the solder wont flow, and when you prime the soldering iron tip just stroke it twice with the solder you dont need too much on the tip itself and i like too trace the iron and my solder with eachother and let it soak into the wire
hey joel, im guys
1hr special from Joel on a Friday 🔥🔥🙌
When I solder stuff like that I use a mini blow torch like a “cigarette blowtorch lighter” you can call it
Duuuude such a wicked car! one of my dream cars for sure with a m50 or s54 haha One love my guy!
Bro it’s crazy that you use those wire all mess up to extend that !
Also use the tin welder tapping it several times for a short time than that✌🏼
Found you! I talked with you today Oct 19, while you took pics of your car near the woods.
the threads tend to suck for the turbo feeds in china turbos, throw a copper crush washer on there, after that when I did it the threads were destroyed when i tried to change the crush washer ended up jb welding the feed fitting to the turbo, no leaks
Literally nothing can keep my attention for 1.5 hours, but this did.
As a guy with an e34 m50 turbo build, it gives me hope that mine will be runnin one dsy
for brakes, get or make a power bleeder. a 5 min 4 corner job instead of a 2-man 30 minute one lol
dont use lead free solder, its junk for wires. use lead solder 60/40 60%tin 40%lead
I tin the tip and then drop the solder in from above, the flux usually pulls it in and then I heat the wire and finish it off
i love your vids keep killing it!
its 20:00 here
best way to eat my burger and watching a 1 hour video from Joel
Bro, you so genuine in your verbal description of ALL your actions. I’m watching and your doing a M series and my engine is an S54! You keep on Keeping on!. I’m buying a parts cleaning tank and the soldiering iron, cause of YOU!
we cant wait to see u drive the car
I love your build and having decent tires for your build. Why is this build for highway pulls only. Ive seen these setups before, it works for its built purposes. Will you upgrade your cooling in the future? Great first try, but it's very inefficient at being useable before you start using it. Unless you got the miracle water pump, that thing can undo alot of bad.
The stewart water pump is the only thing saving this setup. Even bottom mounted turbo cars, then a koyo or thicker rad. That setup on the fan does hurting not good. Your options are non existant unless you get a smaller radiator to put a bigger fan on. Me and my buddys have been drifting m50 m50 stroker m50 cut ring m50 nitos m50 top mount m50 bottom mount. Funs fun till you stop learning and keep failing.
Check insta DM's. Needa get you a good PC ;) Didn't expect a vid for lunch time tho lets gooo
Lead free solder is shit it’s usually for jewellery just get leaded next time
Thank you for your videos !! Love it, continue please !
Perfect timing now i have a movie to watch while i build my engine.
You need the injector spacers because on the m50 manifold has no stop for them. They injector will fall in to the runner and make a vacuum leak and makes removing the injector very hard and usually breaks the oring and or the oring holder.
Also for the turbo feed look on ebay they have the banjo style oil feeds for these turbos. They look nice an slick and is easy to tighten.
Don’t the m50 has the oil cap on the back? This seems like an m52