Mercedes W211 Thrust Arm Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
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/ @dcfgarage
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Disclaimer
The information contained in this video is provided "as is", and should be used for directional purposes. Always follow safety procedures and understand the legal implications of any modifications you might make to your vehicle. Several factors beyond my control might change the information provided in this video. I do my best to provide the most accurate and complete information possible, however, I shall not take any liability for property damage and injury occurred as a result of any information contained in this video. Use it at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any implied or expressed warranty, or liability.
Great detailed video. one tip though, torque the thrust arm with the wheels on the surface so it’s sitting right when the weight is on it, otherwise it will be always in stress and you’ll go through bushings really easy.
Good point. I’ll retorque them one of these days
You dont have to do this, you just need to torque the bushing end with the arm at the proper angle as if it were on the ground. For example, the lower control arm needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it in the air, making it at the proper angle like it were at rest on the ground.
You may want to check when to tighten the thrust arm on the chassis. I believe it must be done under load, in other words, tires on ground.
U are absolutely right! Doing the way I did might cause premature wear
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Good video. I am replacing all the components of the passenger side. the driver side was done a few months ago by someone else. It looks easy enough for me. Tie rods as well. I watched your video. As someone pointed out I torque the nuts once I put weight on the wheel.
Thanks! Good luck
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Nice! 21mm is key to the heart of merc suspension.
The torque spec for the bushing end is definitely not "infinite" as you hyperbolically said at around 9:06. The proper spec is about 80 ft/lbs + 120-180 degrees.
Additionally to all the "experts" in the comments: You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Thanks
Hey thanks for your video! I wanted to ask how are the thrust arms holding up? Been debating between OE quality arms from FCP Euro or TRQ from eBay lol I'm at 160k miles on mine and the ball joint squeaking is bugging me. Thank you!
Hey man! I ended up selling the w211 and bought a w251 R500. It was holding well when I sold. It definitely does bot have the same durability as OEM. But if you are DIYing and not paying labor, it's certainly worth it.
@@dcfgarage Thanks for your input! I will be considering aftermarket ones because it's literally half the cost!
Thank you!!!
Big thrust arm nut 80Nm+120'. Torque should be under load or you'll tear rubber parts , drive weird, and get noises.
Thanks for the tip!
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Yet another incorrect video about replacing these arms!
You MUST tighten the opposite end to the ball joint with the bushing loaded (ie with the weight of the car on it) otherwise you will just tear up the new bushing! 😡
You do not have to put weight on the wheel before torquing, you just have to make sure the bushing end is torqued with the arm at the resting position's angle. For example, the lower control arm can be changed while in the air but it needs to be held at a 90 degree angle while torquing it, which makes it simulate the angle it sits at while under weight on the ground.
Maybe spend less time acting like you know it all and maybe learn something.