Very smart to go 3.75 on the stroke, that engine will last longer and not beat the piston skirts as much given the short deck block. The 4.00 stroke of the ls7 was designed for a taller deck height of the block. Those 408 combos don't last along due to the piston rocking at bdc
The deck heights are actually the same between an LS7 & 6.0 block. The sleeve length however is much longer in the LS7 block to support the piston. However, I do have about 5,000 very very hard high rpm nitrous miles on my 4.000" stroke 6.0 and the piston skirts still look awesome. As long as the bore is perfectly straight and properly de-burred at the bottom the piston skirts will last a very long time.
Have built many 383 stroker small box Chevy back in the day of course I’m 60 to be honest, I don’t know much about the LS and LT platforms except for lifter, failures, and head gasket failures due to too wide of a bolt pattern on the heads, unlike a Steve Morrison Ls 6 bolt heads set up
So it's basically a bit more than an LS3 in capacity with a shuffled bore and stroke combo be interesting to see if it makes much difference against an LS3 with same heads and cam with respect to efficiency and power - torque curves.
2:37 IMO...what id do is throw an ls7 based head that accepts a 4.030 bore CID, and GPI make one. That way you get the larger intake valve, raised runners etc. With the slightly larger crank stroke it will add some two down low & you can run 6.2-6.3 rods which will help you run it out for higher rpm. The LS7cylinder heads, as well as intake manifold( CID single plane,or, LSXHR) promoted good mid and high rpm power. Pair that with a comp cams LSR 235/251 cam and you'll have a sick set up that has a large broad rpm range of non stop tq & HP! Run a nice 10.1:1 Diamond pistons. Add a simple D1X Procharger kit/or/ Vortech V7-YSI kit if you prefer. That would be a nasty street/ strip car
The stroke to bore ratio, and rod size is different. Also, the longer stroke crank will give it a little more tq. The power curves are also heavily dependent on what your using in the top end of your motor. Cathedral port heads( smaller intake runners) are better for torque and strong midrange power. Rec Port is the inverse. However, it is fairly common for bigger rec port heads to have 11-12 valve angle which helps midrange power. Therefore you will be able to make power over a broader rpm range. Composite intake manifolds with long runners( fast) pairs well with cathedral heads and adds more of that "under the curve power". Intakes like the BTR trinity, TSP Titan, Holley low/ultra low ram will help produce more power in the higher rpm range. However you lose some torque. The short runner intakes pair well with rec port heads to produce more rpm which is key for situations where you may be using turbos or centrifugal blowers. A time where more rpms mean you can spin them faster which equals more hp.
That would be awesome to see! I don't think technology has come far enough though for us to have anything greater than a 4.220 on a small block yet, however
@@pablotharpalo5685 you can do a 4.250" on an LSX block, but they say for NA only. I've talked to a couple machinists who claim you can do certain stock blocks with aftermarket sleeves. I want to try one at some point. It may have to be a slightly smaller bore though. 4.185-4.220".
If I had a 5.3 block and couldn’t get a 6.0 block then i would do a 383. But for . 6.0 I would want the 400+ cubic inches. I can still appreciate the build though, old school bore/stroke ratio
molnar recommended the same crank, rods and pistons for my build, with a "custom" cam from bullet, warhawk heads and 2 66mm turbos it made 1235hp at the tire with 24lbs of boost.
Great video... With Today's technology i think looking for say 500 usable HP for something like a 1st generation Camaro using a small block would be the way to go? Less weight and for a street driver seeking plenty of drivable performance and not looking for a cage i assume something like a 572 would be too much for the unibody to handle even with frame connectors.
I'm with you James. I'd like to know if this was a "in-house" crank or special ordered deal..?? That bore/stroke combination works really well in the first gen small block chevys.
@@chrisferguson1911 I built that combo. I called it a 349 ‘cause it has a nicer ring to it. Used a 6.2 Escalade block bored .060” over. With 12:1 compression and AFR LS3 heads and my custom camshaft it makes 659HP @ 7600 rpm. Here’s a video on the Dyno. th-cam.com/video/Qz12HXH2qXA/w-d-xo.html
Do forged rods with the 7/16" ARP 2000 bolts that come with a complete rotating assembly need resized? Or do those rods already spec out for the added torque to the caps?
The short stroke engines can really be advantageous especially under boost. The 4.00 stroke setups tend to wear out piston skirts due to the short deck height
20 thousands for ring gap is really tight i usually do 24 never had an issue especially if its a stroker if its a stock motor i would make it smaller then 24
Two things: 1. What tool do you put that chamfer on the caps with, diamond file? 2. When a used block comes in, for the piece of mind would you recommend always cutting it 5 over just to start with a brand new true round bore, or if it specs out, plateau hone it and send it?
1. Yes, small handheld diamond file available in packs of 10 on amazon. 2. I always take a block .005" over. I've never seen one that didn't have .002-.003" taper
Question for your expertise!!! I have a 6.0 I’m building, I’m wanting to run a ICT valley tray. Do you think that is a good idea or should I just run a stock one on it. I’m running a Chop Monster cam also.
Hey Guys, speaking of doing it at home. Question, I see some build videos where guys are using assembly lubricant. I noticed you guys didn’t use or show you using it for the main cap bearings and rod caps. Is assembly lubricants not necessary or like there’s different schools of thought? Thanks for the response and content!
I don't understand why the 3.75" stroke was chosen. Even if you're not after max power, you're still giving up torque (and power) across the entire RPM range.
I'm familiar with that bore&stoke but in a gen1 an I have broken rear 12 bolt axel and front drive shaft an also hubs& stub shafts,the rods are 5.7s lighten up with arp bolts,the pistons I run are 0.60 11 to 1 speed pros with the biggest 4x4 cam comp makes off the shelf, the truck it's in is a 72 4x4 half ton stock axels with a little work in them.Feeding the mill is holley 800dp with a little work done to it,..💯😎✌...I really need to go LS in the future just a better designed power plant Thank You very much people
you know what gets me? the cam bearing is clearly visible in your camera shots there, but where are the cam bearings on all the overhead cam engines? throwaway aluminum heads, shit designs all over. so happy to have bought my first ls last october
Very cool! Very unique build. I went the usual 383 off an Ls1 block since I already had the block from my 2000 B4C Camaro😏. 👍
Very smart to go 3.75 on the stroke, that engine will last longer and not beat the piston skirts as much given the short deck block. The 4.00 stroke of the ls7 was designed for a taller deck height of the block. Those 408 combos don't last along due to the piston rocking at bdc
The deck heights are actually the same between an LS7 & 6.0 block. The sleeve length however is much longer in the LS7 block to support the piston. However, I do have about 5,000 very very hard high rpm nitrous miles on my 4.000" stroke 6.0 and the piston skirts still look awesome. As long as the bore is perfectly straight and properly de-burred at the bottom the piston skirts will last a very long time.
Have built many 383 stroker small box Chevy back in the day of course I’m 60 to be honest, I don’t know much about the LS and LT platforms except for lifter, failures, and head gasket failures due to too wide of a bolt pattern on the heads, unlike a Steve Morrison Ls 6 bolt heads set up
So it's basically a bit more than an LS3 in capacity with a shuffled bore and stroke combo be interesting to see if it makes much difference against an LS3 with same heads and cam with respect to efficiency and power - torque curves.
2:37 IMO...what id do is throw an ls7 based head that accepts a 4.030 bore CID, and GPI make one. That way you get the larger intake valve, raised runners etc. With the slightly larger crank stroke it will add some two down low & you can run 6.2-6.3 rods which will help you run it out for higher rpm. The LS7cylinder heads, as well as intake manifold( CID single plane,or, LSXHR) promoted good mid and high rpm power. Pair that with a comp cams LSR 235/251 cam and you'll have a sick set up that has a large broad rpm range of non stop tq & HP! Run a nice 10.1:1 Diamond pistons. Add a simple D1X Procharger kit/or/ Vortech V7-YSI kit if you prefer. That would be a nasty street/ strip car
The stroke to bore ratio, and rod size is different. Also, the longer stroke crank will give it a little more tq. The power curves are also heavily dependent on what your using in the top end of your motor. Cathedral port heads( smaller intake runners) are better for torque and strong midrange power. Rec Port is the inverse. However, it is fairly common for bigger rec port heads to have 11-12 valve angle which helps midrange power. Therefore you will be able to make power over a broader rpm range. Composite intake manifolds with long runners( fast) pairs well with cathedral heads and adds more of that "under the curve power". Intakes like the BTR trinity, TSP Titan, Holley low/ultra low ram will help produce more power in the higher rpm range. However you lose some torque. The short runner intakes pair well with rec port heads to produce more rpm which is key for situations where you may be using turbos or centrifugal blowers. A time where more rpms mean you can spin them faster which equals more hp.
Very nice brother. I like different. That engine is beautiful. I can't wait to see the 632 on the dyno as well. HELL YEA!!!!!
Very cool build. I have been wanting to do a LSX block 4.250" bore x 3.750" stroke with 6.125" rods.
That would be awesome to see! I don't think technology has come far enough though for us to have anything greater than a 4.220 on a small block yet, however
@@pablotharpalo5685 you can do a 4.250" on an LSX block, but they say for NA only. I've talked to a couple machinists who claim you can do certain stock blocks with aftermarket sleeves. I want to try one at some point. It may have to be a slightly smaller bore though. 4.185-4.220".
@@whereisamerica7384 oh, that's awesome! If you do get to it, I'd love to see how that plays out. I'm going to have to do more research on that block!
If I had a 5.3 block and couldn’t get a 6.0 block then i would do a 383. But for . 6.0 I would want the 400+ cubic inches. I can still appreciate the build though, old school bore/stroke ratio
Can we get a parts list for this build??
9:18 beat please?
molnar recommended the same crank, rods and pistons for my build, with a "custom" cam from bullet, warhawk heads and 2 66mm turbos it made 1235hp at the tire with 24lbs of boost.
What size injectors?
@@montim.5301 FIC 1650cc
Great video... With Today's technology i think looking for say 500 usable HP for something like a 1st generation Camaro using a small block would be the way to go? Less weight and for a street driver seeking plenty of drivable performance and not looking for a cage i assume something like a 572 would be too much for the unibody to handle even with frame connectors.
Where did you find a 3.75 stroke crank? I wondered if someone made one because someone might not want a 4in stroke.
I'm with you James. I'd like to know if this was a "in-house" crank or special ordered deal..?? That bore/stroke combination works really well in the first gen small block chevys.
I'm still waiting for someone to order the 3.268 crank, 6.300 rod, and 4.125 bore...the new 350😜🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
@@chrisferguson1911 well we already do have a 350... it's called the LS1... Lol, you do you man 😂
@@chrisferguson1911
I built that combo. I called it a 349 ‘cause it has a nicer ring to it.
Used a 6.2 Escalade block bored .060” over. With 12:1 compression and AFR LS3 heads and my custom camshaft it makes 659HP @ 7600 rpm.
Here’s a video on the Dyno.
th-cam.com/video/Qz12HXH2qXA/w-d-xo.html
Very nice 349!🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
What’s the largest stroke crankshaft that can go in a LS block?
Wow 6.3 rod that's nice
Gotta sounds amazing with that short stroke.. what was the CR?
How much did it cost to build
What does it cost to take a standard block and get it ready for rotating assembly.
Depends on where the block is going for machining.
Newbie here....whats the neccessity for a 6.300" rod??
Do forged rods with the 7/16" ARP 2000 bolts that come with a complete rotating assembly need resized? Or do those rods already spec out for the added torque to the caps?
The short stroke engines can really be advantageous especially under boost. The 4.00 stroke setups tend to wear out piston skirts due to the short deck height
He’s got a huge connecting rod in that thing too. If it’s na this engine would last like an old tractor. I bet it would be a 300k 500+hp fire spitter
What type of cam could you run with this, or would you be limited to a stock cam
so what is the difference between this build and a 416 ?
Cool combination.. from your experience, What is best Gap for Turbo LS Piston Rings?
Depends on horsepower, compression & fuel
@@JacobVillemain 700WHP with 9.4:1 on 95 Octane. My Engine is 6.0 with EFI Sniper Throttle Injection.
20 thousands for ring gap is really tight i usually do 24 never had an issue especially if its a stroker if its a stock motor i would make it smaller then 24
Who makes a 3.75 stroke crank? I mean what company?
Two things:
1. What tool do you put that chamfer on the caps with, diamond file?
2. When a used block comes in, for the piece of mind would you recommend always cutting it 5 over just to start with a brand new true round bore, or if it specs out, plateau hone it and send it?
1. Yes, small handheld diamond file available in packs of 10 on amazon.
2. I always take a block .005" over. I've never seen one that didn't have .002-.003" taper
@@JacobVillemain thanks brother great work wish I lived closer and could turn wrenches for you
This is literally what I want
Would this be a good engine for my 2007 Yukon XL 2500 4x4? 410 gears, 4l80 trans.
Should’ve built a 408 ls stroker out of that 6.0 but the 383 6.0 is unique
Rather use a 3.9 crank and build a 396, LS396 if u will
Question for your expertise!!! I have a 6.0 I’m building, I’m wanting to run a ICT valley tray. Do you think that is a good idea or should I just run a stock one on it. I’m running a Chop Monster cam also.
Valley tray just needs to seal the valley. Functionally, there is nothing special about a billet one -other than they look tits-
Hey Guys, speaking of doing it at home. Question, I see some build videos where guys are using assembly lubricant. I noticed you guys didn’t use or show you using it for the main cap bearings and rod caps. Is assembly lubricants not necessary or like there’s different schools of thought? Thanks for the response and content!
Did you dyno it?
Where are you located at bro ? I need some machine work
San Antonio, TX
I don't understand why the 3.75" stroke was chosen. Even if you're not after max power, you're still giving up torque (and power) across the entire RPM range.
different strokes for different folks
Longevity. Shorter rod,side loading on the cylinder walls, less dwell time at TDC, faste r piston speed all come with longer stroke.
So does more displacement, more torque, smaller dish/chamber for a given CR, and a lower RPM requirement for the same power.
Where you using new or used main bolts?
If used, do you use TTA or a tq value for final assembly?
Main bolts can be infinitely reused in LS engiens
@@JacobVillemain do you use the GM angle or torque to ft/lb
@@n2oracer84 OEM
I'm familiar with that bore&stoke but in a gen1 an I have broken rear 12 bolt axel and front drive shaft an also hubs& stub shafts,the rods are 5.7s lighten up with arp bolts,the pistons I run are 0.60 11 to 1 speed pros with the biggest 4x4 cam comp makes off the shelf, the truck it's in is a 72 4x4 half ton stock axels with a little work in them.Feeding the mill is holley 800dp with a little work done to it,..💯😎✌...I really need to go LS in the future just a better designed power plant Thank You very much people
Couple of questions. How much power would that ballpark? And what's that service cost?
No service, 550hp
But no carb 🥺😢
12 tho on the top ring end gap is more then enough
Could you take that block put ls1 crank and make an iron block ls1
Where are y'all located?
San Antonio
great content
Thank you!
you know what gets me? the cam bearing is clearly visible in your camera shots there, but where are the cam bearings on all the overhead cam engines? throwaway aluminum heads, shit designs all over. so happy to have bought my first ls last october
😎 What Hp/Torque are you expecting? Is that a LQ4 or LQ9
No difference in the block itself, the lq9 had higher compression pistons, like a flat top vs a dish in the lq4, but all that has been replaced here.
This build was not built with horsepower goals in mind. However it should make around 500-530 crank.
How much for this rebuild lmao
Probably 3-10 grand
Lol 😂 why!!!
You rebuilt it. You didn't build it!
I love how you almost totaled that rod and piston off the top of that box... smooth move exlax! 💩