How To Avoid a Stuck Mash And Use Lauter Tun Rakes To Brew Like a Boss

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 24

  • @jonalmqvist9877
    @jonalmqvist9877 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Pro or no pro. This Is good information for serious brewers. I thank you!

  • @rupertbrown3767
    @rupertbrown3767 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for clearing up some confusion regarding Rakes, as always very helpful info. Looking forward your videos every Friday.

    • @RockstarBrewer
      @RockstarBrewer  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      No worries, Rupert. If you have any more questions, throw them my way 😀

  • @vikramjitsingh4538
    @vikramjitsingh4538 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    your videos are really helpful in understanding multiple factors of the workings of a brewery.......thanks so much.....cheers.

  • @Niklasb7441
    @Niklasb7441 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hey Hendo!
    Did you ever make the video about the mill gap?
    Just got a new brewhouse with a new malt mill. and i stuggle on what gap to set it to, to get the best resault on my new brewhouse :-) ?

    • @RockstarBrewer
      @RockstarBrewer  2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      That's a great idea! I'll pop some stuff into the queue. Thanks for the suggestion.

  • @toddbartlow8770
    @toddbartlow8770 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    What method do you use to take all of these gravity readings? If refractometer what brand do you use and does the sample need to be in a specific temperature range? Thank you!

    • @RockstarBrewer
      @RockstarBrewer  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Typically in a brewery you'd use a density meter such as an Anton Paar DMA35 but any simple home brew refractometer will give you a rough guide to be close enough to hit your target. The main reason for using a refractometer or density meter is that hot samples can be cooled quickly (unlike needing to cool a large sample to check with a hydrometer) - I hope that helps!

  • @gokcenami5075
    @gokcenami5075 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello! Thanks for the tips and information they are extremely valuable! I am planning a budget "frankenbrew" brewery: 3x isolated 1000L diary tanks. One is HLT, one with a custom false bottom for the mash tun, and one is the kettle for an approximatelty 660L/brew. I planned for a party-gyle brewday to get the most out of the grist to fill 2x 1000L stock tanks with bottom valves (and custom cooling jackets) which I thought I could use for fermentation. I planned for a bottle conditioning setup, transferring the finished beer to a bottling tank after cold-crash, add sugar and yeast and fill bottles with budget vacuum wine fillers. Do you think such a setup will work fine for me for some years untill I earn enough money to build the "real thing"? Do you believe a custom "frankenbrew" setup can produce quality beer? Do you recommend to start with such brewhouse? I really need some pro advice here. Cheers!

    • @RockstarBrewer
      @RockstarBrewer  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hey Gokce - head over to my free Facebook group at rockstarbrewer.com/pro-brewers-group because that's a great place to ask your question! Thanks for watching.

  • @JoshuaPentreath
    @JoshuaPentreath 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good topic . X

  • @socrates000000
    @socrates000000 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello, I am a home brewer and starting a microbrewery but the brewer that I am working have a problem with the bottling process because the pilsner that he was producing went bad after three weeks in the bottle. Can you give me any advise on this issue

    • @RockstarBrewer
      @RockstarBrewer  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Sounds like you have a microbiological issue. Gotta get that cleaning and sanitation happening! Good luck with your project!

  • @AmitKumar-jr9fx
    @AmitKumar-jr9fx 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi, I am facing Beer oxidation problem after beer Filtration to Package Bottles. But the problem is that we don't have DO meter for checking where the beer is picking oxygen. Can you please suggest any practice by which I can reduce the oxidation.

    • @RockstarBrewer
      @RockstarBrewer  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Sure! Purge everything with plenty of CO2 prior to transfer. Check out my free training at rockstarbrewer.com/webinar if you'd like some more info.

  • @spider94ls
    @spider94ls 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello, i have one question: In my kettle/whirpool tun i have whirpool inlet and cone bottom whit only one drain in center. What is your advice what to do after whirpool and after trub settle at center?

    • @RockstarBrewer
      @RockstarBrewer  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      ohhh that's a tricky one! You want to separate your trub from your wort so you really need to draw clear wort from beside the trub cone. Can you drill a hole in the side of your whirlpool?

    • @spider94ls
      @spider94ls 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RockstarBrewer probably I can find someone to do that it is double wall whit isolation so it would be tricky. My only option now is to drain out trub I also have in line filter so that would help.

  • @AmitKumar-jr9fx
    @AmitKumar-jr9fx 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi, I am preparing lager of 5.1% alcohol, 100 hl/ brew, I am using 1200 kg of malt and 450 kg of broken rice. The problem what I am facing is my fermentation is stop at 3.4- 3.5 degree Plato.
    The mashing rest are
    40 degree- 5 min
    50 degree- 10 min
    67.5 degree- 60 min
    76 degree- 5 min.
    Kindly help me to sort out this problem. Thank you

    • @RockstarBrewer
      @RockstarBrewer  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Looks like you forgot to add in a beta amylase rest at about 63C. Also check your yeast health and pitch rate.

    • @AmitKumar-jr9fx
      @AmitKumar-jr9fx 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RockstarBrewer thankyou for your suggestions

  • @utolsomohikan2447
    @utolsomohikan2447 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Roppi 600 is a Hungarian mill... yeah :-)