I absolutely love my metal Mordians.... Honestly the weight in the hand just feels so satisfying... I glue pennies under plastic bases too as the models just feel so insubstantial without a bit of weight behind it.
Most of my Eldar and GK armies are metal. I hated pinning bigger models or trying to magnetize stuff but yeah I totally agree about the weight being satisfying. Especially terminators. And paying $60 bucks for 5 pieces of plastics stings more for some reason even though I know that's silly.
I completely agree... It's way easier to work with plastic but it doesn't feel like value for money... Which I know sounds crazy.. All metal GK and Elder very nice
Ever considered a weighted base for metal models? The Lictors seems like they could benefit from a metal washer epoxied into the bottom of the 40mm base maybe? Not all metal models need a weighted base but top heavy minis (Like Tyranids) could use some (M0AR!) weight in the base or on the base to help them from tipping over so easily. I had some old T'au that were plastic Crisis Suits with metal rail gun bits... they were down right *magical*... The guns outweighed the minis by 3x easily so they were either breaking off the mini or the mini was breaking off it's base cause it was so top heavy... like I said magical.
I like metal models with just the way they look. a lot of them just seem to have so much charcter and I have a lot of fun painting them. that and also the weight feels very nice. I have a Valhallan Ice Warrior army that I absolutely love to bits.
That Deathleaper was one of the first minis I bought when I was starting 40k back in 2009. I got it in metal and he was so hard to build as a kid that I put him in a drawer and I only finished building him last year. I still haven't painted him!
Goddammit Jay, you're making me want to build Tyranids again! Great video, though you left off one of the other advantages of metal models, if you're losing, they make great projectiles to knock your opponent out with!
Note for the future: When you have written seven paragraphs on TH-cam, don't scroll down to see the rest of the comments because it will delete the whole damn thing! Had to rewrite it, hope i didn't forget anything :( Great models! They look scary, should be great Gauss/Tesla target practice! :P As somebody with metal minis as their main game (my main is Infinity), i must take issue with some things on this video, you detailed in general good practices and some quite good stuff (like the technique with the basing tabs turned into pins, it's my favorite way, no pin will be stronger than one that was cast with the mini), but you also did some objectionable ones: * First of all FREAKING EPOXY? Really? Seriously? No, dude, epoxy is overkill for this purpose, if you have *correct* gluing practices this is not necessary. Damn, 5 freaking minutes holding parts together? No wonder you hate it! I cannot stand gluing minis without some kind of superglue accelerator and you're there holding pieces for 5 goddamn minutes! Damn! You're not gluing together the legendary Thunderhawk or anything like that! * No need to go for that rattlecan primer, although it being cheap and effective is a plus, your usual Stynylrez primer will do the job. * What's probably the most important thing: Superglue is NOT plastic glue/cement. When gluing plastic, you're essentially welding the two pieces together by melting the plastic of the two surfaces with a solvent into a single piece. When using actual glues however, they need something to grab into, and smooth shiny metal will NOT do. This is likely where much of the bad fame of metal minis comes from, superglue over smooth joins, I've seen minis explode into pieces when getting a slight bump during a game because they glued minis like this. Instead, take a pointy instrument (like your hobby knife) or a rough file, and rough up any two surfaces to be glued together. This will make the bond FAR stronger as the glue will have more surface to grab onto, and might be enough for most uses, no need to even pin the pieces in many cases of light parts. Use the superglue + baking soda trick for speedy gluing and to fill the gaps. * An alternative technique people like is to make a teeny, tiny ball of greenstuff and sandwich it between the surfaces to be glued, with superglue as the sauce between each one. When the glue has hardened a few moments later remove the excess greenstuff. Done, with gaps filled in the process, let the greenstuff harden on it's own. This also can usually replace pinning, and is perfect for those wonky joins in some old metal minis that have huge gaps, or when doing conversion work. * Of freaking course you rubbed paint off, you were grabbing the figure with your hands! I was yelling seeing you do it! Gloves or no gloves, you should NOT touch the paintjob in process! This is even more vital with metal minis! Use a painting handle! This one is not metal's fault but yours, mister! * Brent from Goobertown has done lately some exhaustive tests of the role of primer and varnish on minis (with lots of snacks in the process :P), and one of the conclusions is that metal minis that are both primed and varnished should withstand even serious abuse without chipping. The usual gloss+varnish should be more protective by virtue of being, well, two coats of protection (hail Lord Duncan), but it doesn't seem to be as vital. Depends on the abuse of course, demo minis for a store should get all the help they can get. Now with these proper practices go find some more heavy metal models (if there's no more in your frankly frightening Pile of Shame i suggest getting a couple or more Infinity TAGs, beautiful sculpts relatively out from your usual, and heavy and beefy too!) and follow these practices, should be a FAR less miserable experience you might even enjoy! When you realize this, make a second take on this video, should be a happier one!
This really takes me back. My first foray into minis was with metal. Getting auto primer and always having those bright points where it would rub off during painting, wish I had gotten using painting handles from day one. Gloss then matte sealer was always the way to do it too. Plus if bright spots started to show, you knew your matte had worn through and it was time to reseal. Still, nothing beats the weight of a metal army, even if some minis were only good for tossing in a sock
I remember those days, I remember my friend getting mad and lobbing his metal dreadnaught at me, missing and shattering his bedroom window... Ah, simpler times...
One of our fellow gamers got fed up with the tricks of the dice gods and literally slammed his drop pod to the ground... Needless to say, it was nowhere near as durable as the fluff warranted.
Awesome models! I'm gonna be building and painting my first metal model in ages, after working with just plastic and resin since coming back to the hobby about a year ago. Your tips here will give my missionary with chainsword the best chance of success. :)
This is the most helpful video about prepping and painting metal minis I’ve ever seen. I also had some bad experiences with metal minis in the past (especially paint chipping) so I’m gonna follow your guide step by step 😄
I originally picked up 40k back in 5th Ed with Tyranids. I'll never forget the nightmare that was building the metal Hive Tyrant of the day. I recently stumbled across my old Lictor and Zoanthrope, ahh the memories.
Metal models have some potential benefits. 1, stripping the paint is very easy, isopropyl alcohol will strip most paint in about 20 to 30 minutes. 2, repositioning arms that are super glued on are fairly easy to remove with a twist. Of course both of these can be negatives. But the nostalgia factor is what makes me keep my Metal models and I'll probably grab more over time if bargains pop up.
Ethanol! Okay, I admit I learned one new thing there, and it's a pretty damn good tip, thankyou AoB. But I don't believe that metals - technically speaking - are necessarily less detailed than plastic. Plastic sprues give you a ton of fantastic fine-but-resilient small parts (and these days people are really spoiled with all the basically free extra parts that come on the sprues) and I definitely prefer working with plastic; it's strong, light, cheap, and easy to fix together. But the *kind* of detail is different: Metal miniatures are superior for _organic_detail over a surface area; if you look at any plastic miniature closely you'll notice that it's made up of a lot of flats and angles; it's a limitation of plastic kits that they can't hold the fine organic detail that metal can. Resin is probably #1, but it's fragile and a general PITA. I'm not sure what to make of 3D printed miniatures; I don't really consider them true resin. They're something else. I've only bought two so far; they both needed a hell of a lot of cleaning up, they are fragile - more fragile than cast resin - and have a strange gritty rough texture. Also, they both (female figures) stand 40mm tall contrary to the claimed 30mm scale. TBH I rather dread 3D printing taking over; I guess the printers will become cheaper and more sophisticated and models will become dirt cheap and super-common, but it may kill the sculpting industry. Two tips about pinning - I've done a lot of pinning in my time and I can pin just about anything to anything: 1. Make sure the drill bit and the rod (ie, brass rod) are the same diameter. Big hole, small rod doesn't work very well. 2. *OIL THE DAMNED DRILL BIT!!!!* I think mine is a voice in the wilderness on this one; of course you don't want to get oil on the surface of the mini if you can help it, but if you put just the tiniest bit of oil (I use 3-in-1 oil) on the drill bit, it will prevent the drill bit from clogging, and will cut into the metal with ease. I always give the mini another clean afterwards anyway to remove swarf or accidental grease. It is so, so much easier to drill metal with an oiled drill bit.
i remember back in 2000 having to give all my metal models a wash before assembling so i was even able to see all the moldlines and burrs and clean them up. good old times
FWIW, I've used Stynylrez on metal minis for a while now and have yet to have chipping problems. I know that's not hard data, but it seems to work pretty well. We'll as good as anything works on metal. I hate metal models which is unfortunate because I love painting Oldhammer.
SUPER IMPORTANT: Make sure before pinning your minis you do a lot of Dry-fitting!!! Nothing worse than getting the epoxy on and the pin in only to find it's totally out of whack and off center!
My girlfriends metal eldar war walker was her first model. She gave up after a day, gave up after a week. After almost a full sleeve of green stuff, it held together long enough to prime...only for the left canon to promptly fall off.
Fine cast is garbage. The amount of air bubbles and missing bits is appalling. I don't mind some pinning but I definately mind reconstructing half a model with green stuff. Thats why I always go for metal minis.
Well, you maybe don't know, but lead im miniatures was forbidden back in the 90s at least in the EU, all GW metal models were and still are (the few that remain) made with white metal, all resins are far more toxic and dangerous for health, the issue with metal is the price, it's so expensive and the resin is cheap as chips
When working with metal models I like to use a painting handle as it reduces direct handling of the model and stops you rubbing paint off. In theory....
Question for you? Ive asked a few questions before but where do you recommend a good forum for asking questions about just anything painting or miniatures?
The ONLY thing I miss about metal minis is their weight and that tactile feel of moving heavy miniatures around a gaming table. I, for one, am glad they are gone.
It wasn't gamers dropping dead, it was state attorneys general bringing a couple of lawsuits that the game companies won, but at an expense that had them change to lead free pewter to avoid more lawsuits. They weren't making enough money to make it worth defending more.
When you say "metal" you gotta define the split between lead or lead based metal, which yes can make you sick with enough exposure to bare skin, but you're lumping pewter into that. Pewter doesn't make you sick and is often about as durable as plastic. 90% of my metal Battletech minis are pewter and have survived drops from 3 to 6 ft without lasting damage (aside from being bent) whereas some of my plastic or resin models fall from the same height and snap off at joints or other more complicated areas to fix. Companies like Games Workshop and Ral Partha switched from metal to plastic (or just sold off parts of their company) because it was becoming too expensive to continue making minis using pewter. Games Workshop went the opposite direction and kept the cost of their models high while changing to an easier to produce and use material so they can keep folks feeding their expensive addiction.
Don't feel like you have to limit yourself, there's awesome metal minis out there, plus as i mentioned in another comment he made his life FAR worse than he should have by doing some rather perplexing things (i still can hardly believe he went for epoxy!), with some tips it should be fun!
Personally, I just wish I had the equipment to make metal bases... I like weight to my minis, but not on the top, and I find the washer/coin approach to be annoying.
ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh you know i have a few things to say about this. but will hush up and not feed the trolls unless they are metal trolls. lol who drops models. ???? old plastic used to be so bad. i will agree that the new plastic models are good details. old metal models from the 80s hello that was the 80s. never had problems converting or building metal models. i know ya put this up to wind me up jay lolololol. again not seen many new metal models but i would imagine the moulds in this day and age would be of higher quality than the moulds from back in the 80s 90s and the early 2000. but i have had some bad metal model casts like my dark elves bloodbowl team. pitted to hell. but i have also had awesome metal casts. i have dropped many metal models and yes some bits break. but again i also dropped plastic and lost parts but the main reason i liked metal back then was that the plastic models where so lame and paint never stuck to them. these days plastic is way better quality. but sadly the price OMG the price. i so hate that the price of plastic is so high. its all a con by GW. we can debate this till the cows come home. another great video :)
Fact! (then states an opinion) - Super pet peeve. Don't do that. Also, I hate when people remove the tabs. Those tabs are proof of what they are and are part of their appeal to me. Please don't remove the wonderful tabs. Also also, you absolutely do not need special glue to work with metal models. You do NOT need epoxy. That is overkill. Superglue is fine. Also, if you do use epoxy, why go through the extra effort of pinning? It's serious overkill and is making your experience with metal way worse than it needs to be. Basically, I disagreed with most of your *opinions* about metal models here and I think you did them a great disservice.
I absolutely love my metal Mordians.... Honestly the weight in the hand just feels so satisfying... I glue pennies under plastic bases too as the models just feel so insubstantial without a bit of weight behind it.
Most of my Eldar and GK armies are metal. I hated pinning bigger models or trying to magnetize stuff but yeah I totally agree about the weight being satisfying. Especially terminators. And paying $60 bucks for 5 pieces of plastics stings more for some reason even though I know that's silly.
I completely agree... It's way easier to work with plastic but it doesn't feel like value for money... Which I know sounds crazy.. All metal GK and Elder very nice
I love the lictors from the range before these
Ever considered a weighted base for metal models? The Lictors seems like they could benefit from a metal washer epoxied into the bottom of the 40mm base maybe? Not all metal models need a weighted base but top heavy minis (Like Tyranids) could use some (M0AR!) weight in the base or on the base to help them from tipping over so easily. I had some old T'au that were plastic Crisis Suits with metal rail gun bits... they were down right *magical*... The guns outweighed the minis by 3x easily so they were either breaking off the mini or the mini was breaking off it's base cause it was so top heavy... like I said magical.
One of my all-time favorite metal models -loved their outlook as much as I was hating putting them together.
On that note - will my poot Butcher2 make it to the next EOB Complete video?
I like metal models with just the way they look. a lot of them just seem to have so much charcter and I have a lot of fun painting them. that and also the weight feels very nice. I have a Valhallan Ice Warrior army that I absolutely love to bits.
That Deathleaper was one of the first minis I bought when I was starting 40k back in 2009. I got it in metal and he was so hard to build as a kid that I put him in a drawer and I only finished building him last year. I still haven't painted him!
Goddammit Jay, you're making me want to build Tyranids again!
Great video, though you left off one of the other advantages of metal models, if you're losing, they make great projectiles to knock your opponent out with!
Back in the day (1970s), we built models from barely recognizable lumps of lead, AND WE LIKED IT!!!
I love the shout out to Casey and Brent. Good job.
Really fun to see peoples minies gives nice ideas to new colour schemes.
British viewers clicking on this video *excited cheapskate noises*
Note for the future: When you have written seven paragraphs on TH-cam, don't scroll down to see the rest of the comments because it will delete the whole damn thing! Had to rewrite it, hope i didn't forget anything :(
Great models! They look scary, should be great Gauss/Tesla target practice! :P
As somebody with metal minis as their main game (my main is Infinity), i must take issue with some things on this video, you detailed in general good practices and some quite good stuff (like the technique with the basing tabs turned into pins, it's my favorite way, no pin will be stronger than one that was cast with the mini), but you also did some objectionable ones:
* First of all FREAKING EPOXY? Really? Seriously? No, dude, epoxy is overkill for this purpose, if you have *correct* gluing practices this is not necessary. Damn, 5 freaking minutes holding parts together? No wonder you hate it! I cannot stand gluing minis without some kind of superglue accelerator and you're there holding pieces for 5 goddamn minutes! Damn! You're not gluing together the legendary Thunderhawk or anything like that!
* No need to go for that rattlecan primer, although it being cheap and effective is a plus, your usual Stynylrez primer will do the job.
* What's probably the most important thing: Superglue is NOT plastic glue/cement. When gluing plastic, you're essentially welding the two pieces together by melting the plastic of the two surfaces with a solvent into a single piece. When using actual glues however, they need something to grab into, and smooth shiny metal will NOT do. This is likely where much of the bad fame of metal minis comes from, superglue over smooth joins, I've seen minis explode into pieces when getting a slight bump during a game because they glued minis like this. Instead, take a pointy instrument (like your hobby knife) or a rough file, and rough up any two surfaces to be glued together. This will make the bond FAR stronger as the glue will have more surface to grab onto, and might be enough for most uses, no need to even pin the pieces in many cases of light parts. Use the superglue + baking soda trick for speedy gluing and to fill the gaps.
* An alternative technique people like is to make a teeny, tiny ball of greenstuff and sandwich it between the surfaces to be glued, with superglue as the sauce between each one. When the glue has hardened a few moments later remove the excess greenstuff. Done, with gaps filled in the process, let the greenstuff harden on it's own. This also can usually replace pinning, and is perfect for those wonky joins in some old metal minis that have huge gaps, or when doing conversion work.
* Of freaking course you rubbed paint off, you were grabbing the figure with your hands! I was yelling seeing you do it! Gloves or no gloves, you should NOT touch the paintjob in process! This is even more vital with metal minis! Use a painting handle! This one is not metal's fault but yours, mister!
* Brent from Goobertown has done lately some exhaustive tests of the role of primer and varnish on minis (with lots of snacks in the process :P), and one of the conclusions is that metal minis that are both primed and varnished should withstand even serious abuse without chipping. The usual gloss+varnish should be more protective by virtue of being, well, two coats of protection (hail Lord Duncan), but it doesn't seem to be as vital. Depends on the abuse of course, demo minis for a store should get all the help they can get.
Now with these proper practices go find some more heavy metal models (if there's no more in your frankly frightening Pile of Shame i suggest getting a couple or more Infinity TAGs, beautiful sculpts relatively out from your usual, and heavy and beefy too!) and follow these practices, should be a FAR less miserable experience you might even enjoy! When you realize this, make a second take on this video, should be a happier one!
What
This really takes me back. My first foray into minis was with metal. Getting auto primer and always having those bright points where it would rub off during painting, wish I had gotten using painting handles from day one. Gloss then matte sealer was always the way to do it too. Plus if bright spots started to show, you knew your matte had worn through and it was time to reseal. Still, nothing beats the weight of a metal army, even if some minis were only good for tossing in a sock
I remember those days, I remember my friend getting mad and lobbing his metal dreadnaught at me, missing and shattering his bedroom window... Ah, simpler times...
One of our fellow gamers got fed up with the tricks of the dice gods and literally slammed his drop pod to the ground... Needless to say, it was nowhere near as durable as the fluff warranted.
@@petrowegynyolc7108 why are people so disrespectful with models sometimes just because they got unlucky with a dice roll?
@@tomhughes1055 donno, maybe anger management issues
I love the idea of just Lictors as a Kill Team!
I play it all the time, tricky to run but when it works it REALLY works!
Awesome models! I'm gonna be building and painting my first metal model in ages, after working with just plastic and resin since coming back to the hobby about a year ago. Your tips here will give my missionary with chainsword the best chance of success. :)
I added some tips in a rather long comment above, give it a look, should make your life easier than freaking epoxy!
Love those big metal tyranids
I was painting a CB mini while listening to this and appreciated the love.
Metal rules. I am an old man now. I love metal models. I am so old the models had metal bases already attached. Those were the days,
This is the most helpful video about prepping and painting metal minis I’ve ever seen. I also had some bad experiences with metal minis in the past (especially paint chipping) so I’m gonna follow your guide step by step 😄
Love it. Great job..... And if you’re losing you can bump them into your opponent’s models.
I originally picked up 40k back in 5th Ed with Tyranids. I'll never forget the nightmare that was building the metal Hive Tyrant of the day. I recently stumbled across my old Lictor and Zoanthrope, ahh the memories.
Brilliant video. I'm plastic all the way and enjoyed you validating that for me :)
Metal models have some potential benefits. 1, stripping the paint is very easy, isopropyl alcohol will strip most paint in about 20 to 30 minutes. 2, repositioning arms that are super glued on are fairly easy to remove with a twist.
Of course both of these can be negatives. But the nostalgia factor is what makes me keep my Metal models and I'll probably grab more over time if bargains pop up.
I'm super jelly of this killteam it is dope
Ethanol! Okay, I admit I learned one new thing there, and it's a pretty damn good tip, thankyou AoB.
But I don't believe that metals - technically speaking - are necessarily less detailed than plastic. Plastic sprues give you a ton of fantastic fine-but-resilient small parts (and these days people are really spoiled with all the basically free extra parts that come on the sprues) and I definitely prefer working with plastic; it's strong, light, cheap, and easy to fix together. But the *kind* of detail is different: Metal miniatures are superior for _organic_detail over a surface area; if you look at any plastic miniature closely you'll notice that it's made up of a lot of flats and angles; it's a limitation of plastic kits that they can't hold the fine organic detail that metal can.
Resin is probably #1, but it's fragile and a general PITA.
I'm not sure what to make of 3D printed miniatures; I don't really consider them true resin. They're something else. I've only bought two so far; they both needed a hell of a lot of cleaning up, they are fragile - more fragile than cast resin - and have a strange gritty rough texture. Also, they both (female figures) stand 40mm tall contrary to the claimed 30mm scale. TBH I rather dread 3D printing taking over; I guess the printers will become cheaper and more sophisticated and models will become dirt cheap and super-common, but it may kill the sculpting industry.
Two tips about pinning - I've done a lot of pinning in my time and I can pin just about anything to anything:
1. Make sure the drill bit and the rod (ie, brass rod) are the same diameter. Big hole, small rod doesn't work very well.
2. *OIL THE DAMNED DRILL BIT!!!!* I think mine is a voice in the wilderness on this one; of course you don't want to get oil on the surface of the mini if you can help it, but if you put just the tiniest bit of oil (I use 3-in-1 oil) on the drill bit, it will prevent the drill bit from clogging, and will cut into the metal with ease. I always give the mini another clean afterwards anyway to remove swarf or accidental grease. It is so, so much easier to drill metal with an oiled drill bit.
Looks good.
On my old metal Blood Bowl minis, I would actually spray on 2 coats of gloss varnish, and 1 matte.
I really like how hard you try to make facial expressions with your eyebrows.
Jaybrows
I usually hit my metal models with a varnish right after priming. It really helps with not rubbing of paint while painting.
i remember back in 2000 having to give all my metal models a wash before assembling so i was even able to see all the moldlines and burrs and clean them up. good old times
Like the PB and EMR plays ;) Shoudl have added the Paint Bravely theme too ;). Nice Lictors btw, always horrible to keep together!
FWIW, I've used Stynylrez on metal minis for a while now and have yet to have chipping problems. I know that's not hard data, but it seems to work pretty well. We'll as good as anything works on metal.
I hate metal models which is unfortunate because I love painting Oldhammer.
Nice I build a lictor kill team myself last week. Haven't tried them out though
Really nice work!
SUPER IMPORTANT: Make sure before pinning your minis you do a lot of Dry-fitting!!! Nothing worse than getting the epoxy on and the pin in only to find it's totally out of whack and off center!
I think I am physically unable to not paint minis that have invis as partially de-cloaked
The subtle name/channel drops man 🤣🤣🤣🤣
If you really want your mini’s to be heavy for tactile reasons, just put steal BB’s or lead shot in your bases.
Wow, they look great
Gorgeous work.
I have a good OOP Wolves collection. I imagine them being a squad some day
Hella winks to our fellow lads of Paint Bravely The Podcast! Hidden sponsorship ? Who knows...
OK, now try to put together some old metal Penitent Engines. Or maybe some old metal Eldar Wraithlords or even an original War Walker.
Aaaww a deathleaper your Sooooo lucky would love to have one for my Gsc.
I recently built and painted a metal hive tyrant. It was a pain, but there's just something about the weight :D
@EonsofBattle, I'm curious - how much did those models cost?
My girlfriends metal eldar war walker was her first model. She gave up after a day, gave up after a week. After almost a full sleeve of green stuff, it held together long enough to prime...only for the left canon to promptly fall off.
Love these vids!
I would take metal models over citadel fine cast
Fine cast is garbage. The amount of air bubbles and missing bits is appalling. I don't mind some pinning but I definately mind reconstructing half a model with green stuff. Thats why I always go for metal minis.
A punch to the face is better than Failcast
Well, you maybe don't know, but lead im miniatures was forbidden back in the 90s at least in the EU, all GW metal models were and still are (the few that remain) made with white metal, all resins are far more toxic and dangerous for health, the issue with metal is the price, it's so expensive and the resin is cheap as chips
When working with metal models I like to use a painting handle as it reduces direct handling of the model and stops you rubbing paint off. In theory....
Also VARNISH! you gotta protect your work
You need a metal spring punch for the locating point!
Paint bravely just like Goobertown
Great quotes of other fellow channels! :D
I remember when my Inquisitor character Azakir Halgriv came face to face with a Lictor in my cousin's Deathwatch campaign, frigging scary as fuck.
Was he calling out Jon with the “eBay miniature rescue” line??
The 2nd Ed lictor was an absolute nightmare, if the tabs snapped off the big talons you had to pin them
Oooohhh... A pound... Of weight! One never knows with you Imperials!
Question for you? Ive asked a few questions before but where do you recommend a good forum for asking questions about just anything painting or miniatures?
A great place is on the EOB discord! its open to anyone
@@EonsOfBattle thank you
Metal is great, while it can chip, has harder to remove mould lines and is harder to prime, it just paints so much better IMHO
The ONLY thing I miss about metal minis is their weight and that tactile feel of moving heavy miniatures around a gaming table. I, for one, am glad they are gone.
It wasn't gamers dropping dead, it was state attorneys general bringing a couple of lawsuits that the game companies won, but at an expense that had them change to lead free pewter to avoid more lawsuits. They weren't making enough money to make it worth defending more.
When you say "metal" you gotta define the split between lead or lead based metal, which yes can make you sick with enough exposure to bare skin, but you're lumping pewter into that. Pewter doesn't make you sick and is often about as durable as plastic. 90% of my metal Battletech minis are pewter and have survived drops from 3 to 6 ft without lasting damage (aside from being bent) whereas some of my plastic or resin models fall from the same height and snap off at joints or other more complicated areas to fix. Companies like Games Workshop and Ral Partha switched from metal to plastic (or just sold off parts of their company) because it was becoming too expensive to continue making minis using pewter. Games Workshop went the opposite direction and kept the cost of their models high while changing to an easier to produce and use material so they can keep folks feeding their expensive addiction.
You used the previous owner's holes, eh? Did you have to pay extra for that service?
This was a great video. BTB you had already chipped / not covered every bit of the characters at priming. :/ pretty lictors.
Noticed too!
What kind of microphone do you use?
Samson C02 Condenser Microphone
just glue a penny to the underside of the base, gives that weighty feel pretty closely.
Hmmm, I guess the number of wargamers (or modellers) that have died of Lead intoxication can probably be counted on a hook hand.
Hmmm...gonna pass on metal but thanks for showing the process.
Don't feel like you have to limit yourself, there's awesome metal minis out there, plus as i mentioned in another comment he made his life FAR worse than he should have by doing some rather perplexing things (i still can hardly believe he went for epoxy!), with some tips it should be fun!
I am actively working on citadel figures from 1985. I have to disagree on a few points
Personally, I just wish I had the equipment to make metal bases... I like weight to my minis, but not on the top, and I find the washer/coin approach to be annoying.
I Bought the eBay listing he showed in beginning of video. Also sorry not sorry there all getting corrupted by Chaos ha Hah Hah Hah Hah!!
I came looking for a £1 kill team.
I should buy epoxy for my metal
I didn't find metal models to be a big issue for me, resin models were more annoying as they are so fragile!
ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh you know i have a few things to say about this. but will hush up and not feed the trolls unless they are metal trolls. lol who drops models. ???? old plastic used to be so bad. i will agree that the new plastic models are good details. old metal models from the 80s hello that was the 80s. never had problems converting or building metal models. i know ya put this up to wind me up jay lolololol. again not seen many new metal models but i would imagine the moulds in this day and age would be of higher quality than the moulds from back in the 80s 90s and the early 2000. but i have had some bad metal model casts like my dark elves bloodbowl team. pitted to hell. but i have also had awesome metal casts. i have dropped many metal models and yes some bits break. but again i also dropped plastic and lost parts but the main reason i liked metal back then was that the plastic models where so lame and paint never stuck to them. these days plastic is way better quality. but sadly the price OMG the price. i so hate that the price of plastic is so high. its all a con by GW. we can debate this till the cows come home. another great video :)
(That's what she said)
Wearing gloves while actually painting may help, as it would keep your skin oils from activating the paint again.
After watching Jay’s oil paints video, it’s kinda sad watching him put all this work into minis that he won’t even like once finished.
To be fair, the spikes on plastic minis aren't any more pleasant.
Metal Models>Finecast
#Prometheus (2012)! 🧸🤓🎮
"...A length of paper-clip". Ohh
... That's what she said. :)
Fact! (then states an opinion) - Super pet peeve. Don't do that.
Also, I hate when people remove the tabs. Those tabs are proof of what they are and are part of their appeal to me. Please don't remove the wonderful tabs.
Also also, you absolutely do not need special glue to work with metal models. You do NOT need epoxy. That is overkill. Superglue is fine. Also, if you do use epoxy, why go through the extra effort of pinning? It's serious overkill and is making your experience with metal way worse than it needs to be.
Basically, I disagreed with most of your *opinions* about metal models here and I think you did them a great disservice.
You should Wear a Mask while airbrushing :/ yours lungs will thank you!
i like metal most of all...
you whipper snappers with your fancy air brushes and digital flim flams will just never understand...
I absolutely love the shilling for Paint Bravely and eBay Miniature Rescues 🤣🤣🤣