Build a GIANT⚡⚡15Ah⚡⚡tool BATTERY!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มี.ค. 2022
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Welcome to SolipsFilm! In this video I'll show you how to make your own giant BATTERY for the Parkside series by 3D printing, spot welding (wise maple from AliExpress), grinding and soldering. You'll find the 3D files on Thingiverse down below. The batteries we'll be using for this project are not the 18650 type but it's bigger brother, the 21700 Li-ion cell. (from LG).
I'm extremely proud to present this project to all of you, and I hope to see you make the same battery as I just did. Yes, Parkside just came out with a 8Ah battery but hey, how about one that's almost double that capacity for just a fraction on top of the price? ( minus the hours of work obviously ;)
I hope I earned your subscription with this one because there's definitely more to come from me in the future. I have to do this in-between work so sometimes a video might take little while to arrive, especially one like this that took me around 8 days total to make, but my list of ideas for future video's is extending.
Hope you enjoy the video and I'd love to hear from you in the comments with ideas, tips and also feedback positive or negative, I'd love to hear it :)
#battery
#parkside
#diy
SOCIALS:
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solipsfilm?igsh...
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3D FILES @ THINGIVERSE:
www.thingiverse.com/solipsfil...
or
Buy the 3D print @ my store!
www.etsy.com/nl/listing/12110...
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PARTS LIST:
LG 21700 li-ion batteries:
www.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-i...
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Nikkel Strip:
nl.aliexpress.com/item/330273...
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Small screws (m2, 10mm needed):
nl.aliexpress.com/item/100500...
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Insulation Gaskets:
nl.aliexpress.com/item/328863...
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Heatsink Plaster:
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
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Spot Welder (updated version, the old one breaks easily):
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
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THANKS TO THESE ARTISTS:
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Here's my next video, worked 10 months on it so I hope you'll like it! 🤞🏻
th-cam.com/video/Vf0uD3wiPuc/w-d-xo.html
Good project but not useful if you drill and screw all day,it adds too much weight. Even with normal batteries,let's say an impact drive is more than 1kg...with this pack more than 2kg.
And also if it slightly increases speed to the tool it will deteriorate the bits faster and more damage to the gears.
Maybe I am wrong as I don't know much about electricity
Hi i want to make that battery.can wou send me the files for the 3d printer please
1:50 just a quick tip, measuring cells like this with a metal caliper can lead to some interesting problems. And yes I discovered that myself
Haha, good point! 😆😆 Glad mine is plastic.. 😅
Did your calipers suddenly glow orange?
@@BradKwfc
It would seem that plastic doesn't glow... 🤪
You can see he used plastic calipers when he measured the length
@@Solipsfilm He's not saying that to you but everyone else 😜, you should pin his comment :)
16:15 A Turntable makes things turn, who would have thought :D
Great Project, i love the end result. maaaybe ill do something similar with Einhell´s "Power X-Change" battery system when i finally get a 3d Printer.
The stringy-nes of PETG can be mostly eliminated by dehydrating the filament and keeping it dry, it's a very hygroscopic filament and when it absorbs moisture it gets stringy and the resultant prints tend to be more brittle than they should be. I print a lot of stuff in PETG and have had good success with dehydrating in a regular food dehydrator at about 70C for about 8 hours, afterwards I put the filament into my dry box (plastic box with desiccant and a hygrometer) and print from the dry box directly; I get excellent results this way with very little stringing.
Excellent design! People just don't get how much time goes into designing a 3d model like this, especially with non engineering software, and filming the process is another story..... it takes a real enthusiast. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the nice words!
It definitely wasn't as simple at it looks in the video, there were a lot of blood, sweat and tears involved before I got it the way it is now 😅 And using 3Ds max didn't help the case indeed..
I'm learning fusion 360 at the moment whenever I have some spare time, and that's also the software I'm using for the next project.
@@Solipsfilm what a lot of people (who have never 3d printed) dont realise is that buying and setting up a 3d printer, perfecting printing and slicing, knowing how to configure the printing parameters etc. is about 1% of 3d printing.
The amount of people (I would say over 99% of 3d printer owners, including owners of high end machines) who have the 'perfect' setup but their printing is limited to printing out Pokémon off thingiverse and other similar trinkets is amazing.
Actually designing things to print, popularly known as 'CAD', is the BIG stumbling block in 3d printer use, and most people who buy a printer and throw it in the garage never to be seen again after a couple of months do it because they cant use CAD. CAD for 3d printing is the same as CAD for subtractive methods (milling, drilling, lathework, etc). There are basically 'lego brick' entry level options, mostly websites but also the popular games 'Minecraft' and 'From the Depths' which have this feature, but all of them have the same problem - you are designing in blocks, so all you can print is blocky things. Above that there is fully featured CAD software such as 3dsmax, fusion360, and freecad, which pretty much requires a degree in engineering to understand. There is nothing inbetween, no 'killer apps' that allow people to progress from the lego brick tools and work thier way up to the top end CAD software.
Just a safety tip. When removing your car battery, always remove the negative connection first, so that if your metal ratchet/wrench touches another metal part of the car, you aren't shorting the positive to ground.
This is the same reason you should always connect positive first when putting the battery back in.
Oh I never knew why you should do that. That makes sense, thanks
Interesting indeed, never thought about it this way! Thanks for the tip :)
@@Solipsfilm Yeah, first time I was working on something with my vehicle's battery, I learned that lesson first-hand. Now I've got a ratchet with a melted spot on the handle and a matching melted spot on my alternator mount... Turns out that a battery rated to put out almost 900 amps can do some damage to steel real fast!
Many dealership mechs failed to practice
this on Toyotas, which blew the 120amp fuse, thats not easy to remove/replace.
I would like to see this done with makita batteries. They also have pretty particular battery management boards and the aftermarket boards sometimes don't work, don't charge as fast or even don't cell balance. Great video!
Fantastic work; absolutely the detail and functionality!!
Much appreciation for your work !!! That’s a Huge battery 👍🏻
I love maker videos, but usually when I watch a build I'm thinking... 'you could have been more careful with that part.' But not with you. You are one of the only makers so meticulous that the quality comes out nearly consumer-ready. Very impressive. Subscribed.
This really means a lot to me, thanks for the encouraging words!
@@Solipsfilm hi would you make one of these for my 18 volt angle grinder
what i want to see is a large battery pack like this, but mounted to your belt or backpack, with a umbilical cord type thing running to the tool. would take so much weight off the tool. just like an ego chainsaw
Good idea. I can't help but think that having such a large weight on the base of a tool is not a good way to work...
@@RetiredRhetoricalWarhorse yeah, I've considered many times designing my own battery pack. 2 or 3 OEM batteries in parallel and mounting them inside a modified camel back. Hardest part would be modeling the connector for 3d printing
I think the Post Apocalyptic Inventor did that in this video th-cam.com/video/bHeii834ujs/w-d-xo.html
Fcuk, me too
The thickness of the cord must be crazy, considering the amperage some powertools need
Nice build, however triple strips on the series connection that barely take any amps and using a single strip for the parallels which take all the current is just a bit shady and will definitely lead to high temperature inside the pack as well as high losses due to heated up nickel !
Usually you reinforce the connection in the direction the current travels in this case between the series groups and not along them.
Very nice project still 👌
That's correct!
I made a follow-up video addressing this issue.
Thanks for the useful feedback and glad you liked the project 😊
Really nice Work Mate. The designing was well thought out in my opinion. There were a few things that I would've changed. But, the way you were talking you seen some changes that would've improved the over all Product too. Thanks for sharing your hard earned knowledge with me. It's appreciated.
Well done man, great stuff!!
Looking forward to you next project👍👍
I am extremely happy with this video. All the safety is good! Nothing sketched me out. Good job, this is really good!
Thanks, glad you thought everything was done well :)
Like your presentation style... really easy to listen to. Looking forward to more battery management stuff. Subbed here!
Agree 100%
Impressive beautiful work.
Congrats!
Sweet, nicely done! Well explained!!!
Great video. It's very educational and well shot too. Awesome job.
Absolutely beautiful!!!! Thankyou for the upload
My pleasure! Glas you liked the video 😊
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
I used 3DSM for 20 years. I ALWAYS wanted to switch to blender, but with all my experience I couldn't ever make the jump. I used blender back around 2002 quite a bit. Well I got tired of Autodesks outrageous pricing. I switched to blender and its literally 100x better in every single way. Also within the first day I was pretty proficient, so it didn't take me as long to get comfortable with it as i thought it would. The only thing I like better in Max is the smoothing groups (which doesn't matter unless you're doing game design). Other than that blender 100% of the way. I switched to blender about 4 months ago. So far I've done 2 professional industrial designs in it. Its so much better. The measurements alone are worth it. I do still find myself using hotkeys from Max and it makes me wanna scream outloud haha. But mostly because I spent 20 years inside of an ancient software whenever I should have just stayed with blender all along.
Your commitment to excellence is most commendable.
Thank you! 😊
Great project but a bit safety precaution. PETG is not a great material for cell holder - it creeps when heated (you can use PET bottles as heat shrink tubing). It means your cell holder will start squeezing the cells quite hard which is not the greatest idea (fire risk and all that stuff). Using proper materials for the job would ensure project longevity and spare you nasty surprises down the line. If I needed more temperature resistance and only had a stock Ender 3 I would chose ABS/ASA for the job. If your printer have all metal hotend and can reach higher temperatures I would stick with Glass Fiber reinforced nylon (requires hardened nozzles). It's what bodies of most power tools and batteries are made of - it's reasonably stiff and impact resistant, has a great temperature stability and should be quite printable without enclosure (haven't tried to print it yet but heard it doesn't warp as much as normal nylon which I had moderate success printing in quite cold garage ~15 *C). Don't use Carbon Fiber reinforced filaments as them might end up electrically conductive due to Carbon Fiber strands in them.
very important information!!! i hope he will pin your comment.
I love when you make what I call "The God Sound"
😆😆
Wahnsinn! Echt Respekt vor dieser Arbeit!
Vielen Dank für den aufmunternden Post! :)
@@Solipsfilm bist doch nicht deutsch, oder? 😮
@@Solipsfilm Ach sooo du sprichst deutsch, super Sache. Dann kann ich meine Frage auch einfacher formulieren: Die 43 A sind ja durch die Sicherung des 2 A BMS Boards von Parkside limitiert. Selbst der neue 8 AH Akku geht bis 100 A. Du meintest ja das du eine andere Sicherung einbauen kannst und damit dann >200 A ziehst. Nun die Frage: Für welche Sicherung hast Du dich entschieden und lädst du dazu noch ein Video mit einem entsprechenden Test hoch? Wäre super! Ansonsten TOP Video. Werde Abonieren.
I wish i would have skills to do such things! Super cool!
بارك الله فيك متابعك من العراق
Excellent job... 😀
Thanks!
I really liked this thank you for making this video
I’ve been thinking about doing this lately for my jobsite radio that runs off a Milwaukee battery.
Since you used a BMS from a smaller battery pack, wouldn’t that limit your charge/discharge current to what the smaller battery pack was?
Amazing. Great result. Looks like from factory 😃
Thanks for the compliment! Glad you liked the final product :)
Great video man, well done and quality work! Looking forward to see where the channel goes. Subbed!
Thanks for the compliment, glad I earned your sub!
That is some amazing work. Thanx
Its very cool design.. would love to see it for milwaukee power tools..
Just bought my first cordless drill yesterday and this video just popped out.
I loved this project!
Thanks, glad you liked it!
I got one of those spot welders. I use a portable battery jump starter and it works great.
LIPO packs is ideal for that spotwelder..
I use 2x 4S 2800mah in parellel and it gives all the spotwelding umff I need.
all in all, been very impressed with it... its rated for 12v (3s) but I dont see any problems with 4S 16v
TIP for Measurements ...
Scan some graph paper or 5mm sq lines paper and print it onto clear overhead projector film
Place the clear film on the scanner bed and then the battery case on top
It's easy to measure now
Thank you from KSA.
Thanks bro! I am very grateful. I just bought a printer I'm still a beginner. You keep working really well just like that!
I hear 3d printer have quite a learning curve when you first start. It ain't just click and print. Alot or little numbers you need first but after you get the process it goes smooth. I believe I'm just a electrician and never really used one before but am interested.
The 3D printer is really one of my best purchases I did in years, it really brought my designing process to a whole new level.
Yes, there's definitely a learning curve, especially if you want the prints to turn out really nice but it is so rewarding once you really figure it out :)
Good luck with it! And if you attempt the project, feel free to send me a picture of the finished product ;)
Solipsfilm@gmail.com
Amazing work 👍👍
i love Parkside products and cats
You're definitely at the right address! 😆🐾
Nice job! great work
Hey there! Real great idea, nice Video, nice STL! Thank you for that. I build one of these. At the moment the second one. Now, there are some batteries unused from the original one. Do you have an STL for 4 oder 6 AH Parkside?
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching, glad you liked it!
Great video. I would like to see 3D printed projects with battery adapter... where you can use Makita battery on Parkside (or the other way around), etc. Usually you can find very cheaply cordless drills but batteries are expensive. So if you can use one battery on multiple tools/companies that would be great.
Watching you putting so much effort in your work I be happy 2 order adapters from you -did buy some adapter b4 but wasn't the quality what I expected-and now i was looking adapter from parkside battery to dewalt and find on Internet pics and can c is not perfect fit -bit much forward then the original battery eould b like...
The temperature sensor is typically a 10k NTC thermistor, if you damage it or it needs to be replaced. It also does not matter which way round the thermistor is soldered to the board. When I used to work with Li-ion cells I used a large ceramic tile to protect the bench from inevitable burns! Speaking of burns remove all rings / watches etc! Metal jewellery can arc and the heat from a short circuit is almost instant! Get yourself some CA glue accelerator spray too.
Don't forget that Milwaukee, SnapOn and another use a 6.8K thermsistor....
@@davidbarker3591 I see you're a battery connoisseur! I never had any luck with Milwaukee liion, 50/50 with the snap ons. Put it down to BMS locked when they fail
good video and timely, since I am looking to upgrade a dying Ingersoll Rand battery back.
Very cool project.
Thanks!
Such a great project!
woww just relaxing video. Thanks.
Seriously though a very good video to go with the Thinginverse print, Attention to detail is very very high. thank you... My SDS drill has broken after only a few uses, its like the brushes have disappeared...
That would be excellent for the torch they sell
Apart from the massive overkill, the grinder, very 👍
I’d trust him doing my dental work with those angle grinders skills 😂
Very Cool project!
Thanks! :)
fantastic. prepare me 2 batteries I'll buy them for you.
I'm sorry but I dont have the time to make more at the moment.. But maybe I can help you out with the printed parts?
www.etsy.com/nl/listing/1211082739/3d-printed-15ah-parkside-battery-as-seen?ref=listings_manager_grid
@@Solipsfilm the amount of entitlement in here is ridiculous. They probably think you would sell them for $100 too!
Awesome job!
Thank you!
Nice job!
Awesome , just wish I had the skills to make some of these batteries
It does indeed require some prior knowledge to do this but it's never too late to start learning the skills needed!
Personally I started getting into the whole 3D printing because I was determined to make the 18650 power bank from K r a l y n 3D, that was also way above my skillset at the time but I forced myself to do it until I succeeded :)
Anyway, glad you liked the video :)
Great job I like it!
Great guide, instant sub!
Dude.... From The Caribbean 🇻🇨....I Say Awesome Build.
Thanks! 😊
Interesting that original bms can be used. I came across your video as i was searching for a bms that i was thinking it needs changed when upgrading the parkside 12v team batteries. Their 4ah 12v battery has 6 cells of 2ah, and was thinking to just replace them for some 3ah ones, would make it a 6ah and overall better quality battery with good cells.
Great work! Could you please do the same for the Makita batteries?
merci pour le partage et le tutoriel
very very impressive project and video account
Thanks! ☺️
When he said the word perfectly... perfectly 😁
Did I? 😅😆
Hey Hey, great video, but i have some questions:
1st i have some 16850 cells from old laptops here, is the case still usable with them?
i always see peps use nickel and weld them, but yesterday i say someone using coppertape insted, do you know how good/bad it is compaired?
great video thank you
Thanks, glad you liked it! :)
I’ve been thinking about rebuilding a basic Milwaukee battery... just back to stock number of cells, but use some high end ones, and see if it’s better than an all original one...
This is a good exercise tool
😁 great work 🙏👍
Le has puesto tanto amor, felicidad y diversión a tu proyecto y a la edición del vídeo de esta publicación, que me contagiaste de todos esos buenos sentimientos, excelente trabajo hermano, te has ganado un subscriptor y muchos likes mas.
En lo personal no le invertiria todo ese tiempo a un proyecto así, porque ya existen productos en el mercado, pero hay muchas ideas que pudieran llevar la misma lógica y metodología de trabajo, eso es lo realmente importante, no el objetivo si no lo aprendido.
saludos
I'm really glad you enjoyed watching the video, thanks for the great compliments!
God bless perfectionists!!!
Brilliant :) subbed 🎉
Awesome mate! i subbed.
great work.. need this fpr Einhell 18v Batteries :D
Thanks! I wish I could make it for many other batteries, but I only have Parkside and Bosh myself.. Plus it's so much work and I can already barely find the time to work on my next project already 🙈😅
I also got that cheap spotwelder.. and I was very impressed with it, as its ideal for my use and I can just use LIPO packs.
I use 2x 4S 2800mah in parellel.. it gives more then enough umff to spotwelderf nikkestrips up and beyound 0.2mm.
I know its rated for 12v (3s) but looking at the component and the cap.. i did not see any problem why 4S lipo (16v) should not be tolerated, and it makes a huge difference in the spotwelding potency.
That small spotwelder was exactly what I needed when i purchased it some years back from BG at around 12USD, and also checked it with my oscilioscope.. its enegy rating from 1E to 99E is 1 to 1 with ms, on my scope and you can also use a footpedal with its small barrel DC connector if you need, but its "automatic" weld-feature works great..
and I love it doesnt take any space and can simply just grapp some of my RC lipo packs when I need to spotweld.
for the price it was a steal.. but using 4S packs in parell made a big difference in spotwelding potency. versus fx 3s packs.
Great build and impressive video from such a small channel (+1).. got many Parkside tools, X20 line , and also X12, .. and sadly also a lot of the Performance BL line (the old version with 2.5A and 5A batterypacks that carried Samsung 25R cells).. and which you cant get new batteries for, as the Performance line shifted to X20 battery-hinge variant.
a tacky move from Parkside, dropping the ball on all the buyers that invested in their performance line.. IMO Parkside should at least make an adapter, so they can use X20 packs and buyers not ending up with quality brushless tools you cant get batteries for.
dang, that x20 gluegun just look dwarfed alongside that pack.
Im using 4A X20 with the same gluegun.. and its not a bad gluegun with its price in mind.. can deliver quite a bit of hot glue in a shortwhile and ideal for certain stuff.
Are you sure that 2A entry batterymanagement system are not choking that huge pack after the original 2A X20 pack current-standards.. just as when your charging it will be the slow charging speeds.
wondering if you actually gonna feel the effect of that huge pack.. like one useally do when using bigger batterypacks and not just longer runtime..
going from 2A to 4A pack big difference in torque on most of my powertools.. same on the older brushless with 2.5A vs 5A..angle grinder would way easier stall on low sized packs..
You said it: you want perfection. And you got it!
Oh thanks! 😊
Yea i just bought the case and bm board on ebay for 15$… came with nickel strips and all.. used laptop batteries.. only tweak i had to do was research the protection chip they used on the board and desolder the supporting components on the leg that controlled the cutout amp draw limit because it was set too low for anything. Just had to take a smd cap out and put in a resistor based on the chart in the chips datasheet.. charges on the same charger as the name brand ones do and works better and longer. Durable as well..
Wow nice!
Gaaf! Now I need a 3D Printer :P
Aanrader, beste aankoop ooit!
Pretty cool
Hi, I've been thinking about a similar project, but I've been wondering about cell balancing, is it ok not to use a load/charge balancer for each battery ? What about long term safety ?
Cell balancing is done by the bms, the extra cells added to the parallel groups balance themselves, the series connections get monitored by the bms :) How i did it here is exactly how it's done by the manufacturer with the 4ah and 8ah pack, no safety issues should be present.
Nice 👏👏👏
Thx!^^
Nice video dude! Thanks for the inspiration. I can't decide... Vlaams of Nederlands 🙂
Thanks! West Flanders indeed, was it the accent that gave it away? 😅
@@Solipsfilm English is great👌web pages gave it away. Greetings from East Flanders.
so awesome!!
very nice work, but is that all the design, the items purchased and the effort at home without forgetting the domestic electricity consumption, amortized the price of the purchase of the 15 Ah battery in a store?
hey I'd love to see a video using Solar panels and these drill chargers as a quick Jerry rig system
Huge fan of this!! Will this fit a Makita 18V?
Thanks! This won't fit straight away but on Thingiverse there's adapter's you can 3D print to use Parkside batteries on Makita tools :)
great video👍
Great Video
Your battery can definitely deliver more than 43 amps even the parkside 8ah does double of that. The only problem is if you try to pull this current the fuse in the PCB of the 2ah battery will blow
Interesting.. Makes sense that the 2ah battery fuse wouldn't be designed to handle this amount of current, thanks for the tip, I'll definitely reinforce it! :)
I did a short circuit test with the batteries, they deliver around 70A/cell, that's obviously not what they're made for but that would mean this battery could deliver 210A at it's absolute maximum 😆
2ah and 4ah batteries have the same fuse as far as i can see so to me it seems its the biggest fuse boards and contacts may handle. If it operates correctly with original fuse i would rather leave it as is
The amont of current he can pull doesn't depend on the battery, it depends on the load! If he uses it with the standard tools that are designed to be used with the standard batteries, there's no way he can pull a greater amount of current from it... This battery will last very very long without any decrease in performance. So it's ok to use with the standard PCB.
@@Solipsfilm Please give us an update! Because the 8 AH deliver 100A ! So, witch fuse have you uses to go above the 43A maximum of your design?
Nice good work
Thanks ☺️
Классный акб для шуруповерта. Можно гипсокартон к потолку прикручивать целый день
Haha, exactly 😆
Good job
I recommend using an oscillating multi-tool for cutting plastic, you'll have more control than the angle grinder.
Wondering if you have made makita battery to parkside adapter
Hi, Nice video, congrats.
I presume that the BMS/Charger will have a timer that will interrupt the charge after certain time for safety... so it would be interesting to see if you manage to fully charge from fully discharge in one shot.
Thanks! 😊 to answer your questions charging is not a problem at all, it just measures the voltage and charges until 4.2v is reached on every cell :) It charges no problem from empty to full 👍🏻 I'll make a video on all these details as soon as I find the time, I'm on a business trip at the moment which is holding me back a bit 😔
Nice video thanks. At minute 11:46 - when you remove a car battery you must disconnect the negative first, then positive. When connecting the battery connect positive first.
why?
@@_24___ While unscrewing the positive terminal you may touch metal piece of engine or body that is still connected to the negative terminal of your battery. You can even touch the negative terminal directly on battery but even disconnecting negative first won't help you there. If you short the car battery it wil weld your wrench or Allen key, glow it red hot, discharge and destroy the battery. But in the worst case scenerio the battery itself will explode due to rapid hydrogen and oxygen release.
@@tymoteuszmielcarski8649 Good points. Caution is advised and care must be taken.
i flinched when you used the callipers on the cells until i realised it was plastic lol