This is a truly informative video. It shows very well how prepared you are before getting at it. I enjoy very much following your work, projects and teachings. I hope this dedication of yours will continue over time. Thanks for posting!!
Duncan here, Roy , I am surprised as I have never seen any one use a rawhide mallet this way ! Very helpful when you explained the rawhide not displacing metal . Thank You
+Duncan MacTavish thank you so much for taking the time to watch the video and thank you for all the great comments God bless you and I hope you have a great weekend
great explanation of the process. I'm going to try this with a softwood head wooden mallet since I've got one. I think it was willow I made it from with an oak handle
I like the video format like this. Reminds me that I need to get a rawhide mallet. Have you ever put a hot coil vertically around a secured rod and pulled it to unwind it? I've seen that method work quickly also, which results in less of the hills and dips to straighten.
Scott Haney either way will work the main point of the video was to highlight the rawhide mallet. I have used both methods and they seem to have about the same effect as far as time spent to straighten. thank you for your thoughts on the video I really appreciate it! God bless
Christ Centered Ironworks I went to several sales after watching this earlier today and caught myself looking around in hopes of finding a rawhide mallet. Hah. No luck today for me finding one, but thanks again for the info.
I especially like how you put together your treadle and power hammer. I want to get the plans from you but just haven't taken the time to find out how. So how do I get them?
Bruce Prosser I'm glad you like the treadle hammer and power hammer videos. You can purchase the plans at www.blacksmithpdfs.com The titles and photos of the listings match that of our videos so they are easy to locate. I really appreciate your support!
I like the live demonstration too. Because a rawhide mallet is, perhaps, less available, I assume I could do the same with a wooden mallet without damaging the surface of the spring material.
Some good tips here! One quick question, Roy is your name right? Just to see if I got it figured out. If I wanted to put the spring back into that steel would I harden it and then temper it to blue purple? Keep up the good work.
You are so good at live demonstrations that you should do it "live" as opposed to the slide show approach. Both are good but the live approach seems to yield more information plus it's more like just talking to a buddy. I downloaded the power hammer plans and am trying to decide if I have room for one more tool in the shop. On your power hammer plans you spec 1/2" threaded rod for the hammer holder shafts. Is there a reason it needs to be threaded or am I missing something? Good job Roy. I enjoyed watching.
Steve Jenkins thanks for the feedback I greatly appreciate it! the threaded rod is just what I had at the time when the plans were drawn up :-) you can use any 1/2" rod you would like. God bless you and happy building!
Fyi...Leather supply stores carry rawhide mallets. Contemplating whether I should sacrifice my leather working rawhide mallet since it looks like it will be drastically misshapen shortly after I start using it for straightening coil springs. Lol
So mangling the coil by hammering it over the horn of the anvil, as every blow the spring shoots back and forth sending shockwaves to your elbows is not the correct way?
Roy! I realize this comment is coming 10 months after you posted this video, but I'm curious about what you think the value of the rawhide hammer is over a wooden hammer. Couldn't you use a wood-face hammer with a soft wood (pine?) to get the same result?
Indeed he did! But there are some useful insights for the careful watcher in case you need to make a tool from this material and not loose material properties. ;)
Rusty when your as good as Roy and have expertize to share with us publish your videos then maybe "Just Maybe " we will watch..If you don't appreciate his talent change chanels...So far as I'm concerned he's BRILLIANT
I really appreciate you telling me about thermo cycling 3-4 times before straightening. Thank you.
This is a truly informative video. It shows very well how prepared you are before getting at it. I enjoy very much following your work, projects and teachings. I hope this dedication of yours will continue over time. Thanks for posting!!
Duncan here, Roy , I am surprised as I have never seen any one use a rawhide mallet this way ! Very helpful when you explained the rawhide not displacing metal . Thank You
+Duncan MacTavish thank you so much for taking the time to watch the video and thank you for all the great comments God bless you and I hope you have a great weekend
Format is great. Keep up the great work. You also draw a lot of expertise from your viewers to help us all.
Thanks once more Roy for such an educational video. Your gifted
Thank you for another good video. I will watch these videos again and again, they are such a good resource of information.
great explanation of the process. I'm going to try this with a softwood head wooden mallet since I've got one. I think it was willow I made it from with an oak handle
Good demo. Never thought of salvaging garage door springs.
+William Timmons glad you enjoyed it sir! Thank you for taking the time to watch God bless you
Like the live demo, thanks for the lesson
Guess I'm a little late but I love the demo format. Thanks.
I like the video format like this. Reminds me that I need to get a rawhide mallet. Have you ever put a hot coil vertically around a secured rod and pulled it to unwind it? I've seen that method work quickly also, which results in less of the hills and dips to straighten.
Scott Haney either way will work the main point of the video was to highlight the rawhide mallet. I have used both methods and they seem to have about the same effect as far as time spent to straighten. thank you for your thoughts on the video I really appreciate it!
God bless
Christ Centered Ironworks I went to several sales after watching this earlier today and caught myself looking around in hopes of finding a rawhide mallet. Hah. No luck today for me finding one, but thanks again for the info.
Scott Haney your very welcome God bless you in your endeavors.
Brilliant tutorial.
Great video! I wondered why spring steel seems to crack so easily.
This was very helpful and I like your videos but having some explanation really helps too. Thanks for doing this.
Bruce Prosser thanks for the feedback hope to keep getting better! thank you for watching
God bless
I especially like how you put together your treadle and power hammer. I want to get the plans from you but just haven't taken the time to find out how. So how do I get them?
Bruce Prosser I'm glad you like the treadle hammer and power hammer videos. You can purchase the plans at www.blacksmithpdfs.com The titles and photos of the listings match that of our videos so they are easy to locate. I really appreciate your support!
LOL I just found the link to your web page as your response rang in.
Thank you.
Just sent payment. This is going to be an interesting project :D
I like the live demonstration too. Because a rawhide mallet is, perhaps, less available, I assume I could do the same with a wooden mallet without damaging the surface of the spring material.
Great info.thanks roy
Great video Roy!!!
If you have a bunch of the same coilsprings straighten out a bunch to cut up into rod then store the rod inside the same springs
Some good tips here!
One quick question, Roy is your name right? Just to see if I got it figured out. If I wanted to put the spring back into that steel would I harden it and then temper it to blue purple? Keep up the good work.
You can also use a copper hammer instead of the rawhide mallet.
A good informative post.
You are so good at live demonstrations that you should do it "live" as opposed to the slide show approach. Both are good but the live approach seems to yield more information plus it's more like just talking to a buddy.
I downloaded the power hammer plans and am trying to decide if I have room for one more tool in the shop. On your power hammer plans you spec 1/2" threaded rod for the hammer holder shafts. Is there a reason it needs to be threaded or am I missing something?
Good job Roy. I enjoyed watching.
Steve Jenkins thanks for the feedback I greatly appreciate it! the threaded rod is just what I had at the time when the plans were drawn up :-) you can use any 1/2" rod you would like. God bless you and happy building!
Fyi...Leather supply stores carry rawhide mallets. Contemplating whether I should sacrifice my leather working rawhide mallet since it looks like it will be drastically misshapen shortly after I start using it for straightening coil springs. Lol
I like 👍
So mangling the coil by hammering it over the horn of the anvil, as every blow the spring shoots back and forth sending shockwaves to your elbows is not the correct way?
Could I use a lead mallet, or would it melt ?
Using lead is a bad idea in just about every scenario.
Won't it lost its tempered property after heating
Yes that's why you re heat-treat
Roy! I realize this comment is coming 10 months after you posted this video, but I'm curious about what you think the value of the rawhide hammer is over a wooden hammer. Couldn't you use a wood-face hammer with a soft wood (pine?) to get the same result?
Good info. Thanks
Starts at 7:10. Omg first half is soooooo over done
He made steel wire. wow.
Muy Gonzo lol thanks for the feedback
Indeed he did!
But there are some useful insights for the careful watcher in case you need to make a tool from this material and not loose material properties. ;)
almost lost me..... too much explaining. 😴
R Groshans thanks for the feedback. God bless
Hurry up dude. U talk way too much.
When you have 1100 videos I'll take your advice!
Rusty when your as good as Roy and have expertize to share with us publish your videos then maybe "Just Maybe " we will watch..If you don't appreciate his talent change chanels...So far as I'm concerned he's BRILLIANT