I went out to my new budding orchard and looked at my trees. For the first time, I felt like I actually knew what I should and shouldn't do! Thank you and God Bless.
Orin - This series you have done is so useful and barely does justice to your wealth of knowledge. I only wish I had seen these a few years ago when we planted our apples, pears, apricots and peaches. I will begin with the winter tips next week and then carry on with the summer on August 18th! Thankyou so much.
Wow, thank you! Great thing about fruit trees is that they are quite forgiving of our mistakes that we can correct in the following years. Apple trees well cared for can be at top production for 75-150 years. There are pear trees in Italy that are around 250 years old and still in full production. Good luck with your trees!
Thank you so much for doing this series of videos WITH updates on the trees progression! Videos like this are so incredibly helpful!!! I have five fruit trees and just recently trimmed them based off your videos! Thank you! Your trees are beautiful too!
You are so welcome! Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Watched both parts to this. We have 6 step over espaliered Pear and Apple trees that produce quite well. For the first time ever, I understand the processes - thanks to this. Some of my previous work has obviously been detrimental and I can see why. It'll take probably 2 years to make the restorations necessary. Thank you so so much!! 👍
Wow! Very helpful and interesting video. That was also an extremely articulate lesson that was just downright pleasurable to listen to. You are the C. S. Forester, one of my favorite authors, of pruning!
I am so fortunate to have found your videos. I am trying to learn how to deal with fruit trees and these videos are invaluable. I love your in-depth explanations and discussion of the tree physiology.
Your detailed photos with red circles really help to explain the technical terms I read about. It can be very confusing so thank you for explaining so well. I've been summer pruning near the summer solstice (June 20). Long story short, after 10 years of pruning neglect I took over an espalier, pruned it hard and the next year got a ton of apples. The next year I followed some poor advice and pruned in the middle of winter in which meant I may have cut off my flower blossoms, and I got one apple. So last year, I was told to stop pruning in the middle of August but I pruned once more in late September because it was so overgrown from the mid-august prune. Now I only have about 10 blossoms. Someone told me that I may have run into a biennial bearing problem by overcropping one year and the tree didn't make flower buds for the next. I'm near Vancouver BC and if I leave my espalier apple tree until mid-August it is so overgrown. I don't know when to start pruning, or should I prune continuously in the growing season?
Hi Julie, glad to hear the video was helpful. When pruning, it's essential to know the bud types on apple trees. If you cut off all of the fruiting buds, you won't any apples for at least a year or longer. Here's a video where Orin explains the different bud types and how to prune accordingly. Hopefully, it's of some help: th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
@@ucscagroecology Thank you for the quick reply! I will check out the links. My apple is spur bearing (not tip) and I did prune yesterday. There are a ton of fruit spurs (clusters where the apples would grow). I think what has happened is 2 years ago I hard pruned the laterals so much I did cut off all the fruit spurs. So last year, I pruned to create the fruiting spurs and this year they are there but immature? does that make sense? It's like I'm restructuring and old tree into a new one! How many years will an individual fruit spur produce apples?
@@juliebishop6898 Fruit buds appear on 2 year old wood or older. On the new buds appearing, they should flower next spring. Apple fruit buds can last 8-10 years.
@@ucscagroecology Great news! The pruning I did to create new fruiting spurs worked! I have a ton of flowers all over the espalier! Now I just have to find the video that explained the flowers and how to thin.
Amazing!!!! Thank you!!! I have a two year Bosch pear that went crazy with new growth this spring and summer. I'm looking at it and it's making me crazy it has so much new growth on it. Now I can prune instruction and confidence. Thank you!!!
Hi Orin, I have watched a great many, if not most, of your apple tree pruning videos, plus a few others, multiple times, and I must say they are by far the best instructional videos available and are an absolute pleasure to watch! No hype - just pure old school knowledge with a little bit of light humour mixed in! Your voice is so calming - you should seriously consider doing ASMR pruning videos to enhance your income stream! 😂 I have also just bought your book here in the UK and am making my way through it! In this video (and others) you mention "pinching off" the excess flowers to leave 1 or 2 to produce fruit at a specific site - I wonder if you could do a video which includes a demonstration of your technique for the pinching off of flowers, explaining 'the where's, the why's and the how's', as you always do, so as not to damage the fruit bud, etc. I believe it's the only thing that's missing from your videos (unless I've just not come across it yet) and I'd be very grateful! All the very best.
Thanks for your kind words. Great to hear that the videos are helpful. We don't have a thinning video in the works, but it's quite easy to do. Best to wait until the apples are about small cherry sized so you can be sure that the fruit has set. The general idea is to remove the smallest apples and leave the 1 or 2 largest. The easiest way to remove the apples and not damage the fruit bud is to use a pair of needle-nosed pruners like the ARS HP-300LDX Stainless Steel Needle Nose Fruit Pruners and carefully cut the stem just below the apple. Best of luck with your trees!
My uncle is 70 and said the tree behind his barn was there from before he was born since he remembers it as a little kid. So it’s a 70+ year old Laxton’s Superb Apple tree. It gets swamped with hundreds of smaller fruit every second year. We have to spend nearly two days up a ladder collecting bucketfuls when it’s late October mid-November. They are good keepers too, he only ran out in mid-April this year and that was the weak year’s crop. The tree is easily 6.5-8metres tall and I would say the spread is even wider at probably 7.5-10metres. We have a job now to prune it a bit each year to get it manageable and under control for future years crop picking. He has taken some scion and got some grafts to take when attending a local fruit group grafting course where they sell two types of scion so eventually he hopes to fell the original and plant one of the new trees in it’s place to carry on for the next 100years.
It sounds beautiful, also the relation your family must have to that tree... just hope the apples are also that good!:D But please don't fell the old tree! maybe there is some other way to still plant the newly grafted ones, but it would be a shame to kill such an impressive creature! think about all the information collected over 70+ years on this location, the complexity of such an ecosystem! Also, the biodiversity in a tree is the highest, when it dies naturally. If you want to care in the best manner for the piece of land your owning, leave that tree til forever, until it breaks down itself. A huge creature like this enriches a place over these 70, 80, 90, 100, + years so much more than we ever could. In my personal view, we are to treat these old trees as sacred, they are supposed to be, as they are on this place, otherwise they wouldn't have made it that long. not every tree you plant is the right plant to the right place in the right time. And isnt this being more than a friend to your family, then just a food producer? after such a long and intimidate bond with your family, doesn't this tree have way more to offer to you, then fruit? All I want to say, maybe consider leaving the tree as it is, imagine ripping out an element like this out of that place, an accumulator of mammals, reptiles, birds, insects, fungi, bacteria, biomass feeding the ground, producing good air, shading the ground, sheltering so much life. taking this away until the new tree is around 40-50 years old too, if it even makes it that far considering how climate is getting harsher especially for planting trees, well taking this away for the next decades until the new tree can produce an considerable amount of the elements I just enlisted, would be catastrophic to the ecosystem on your piece of land. Maybe there is a way to plant one or even two trees close to the old one, even now. and when it dies back, there is gonna be more and more light and space for the new trees to come through. Also they will be sheltered in their young years by the big mother tree and supported through it feeding the soils mycorrhizal network specifically necessary for an apple tree to flourish on this place.
One of the best and most detailed lessons on pruning. Thank You!! I live in Zone 9a, inland from the coast outside Los Angeles, with summer temps frequently above 100-106. I tend to get trunk burn from the sun if I leave the center of the tree too open to sunlight. This is especially true for my fig trees for which I use an organic product to paint the truck. My citrus, persimmons, peaches, apricots and tangelos seem to not be as susceptible to direct summer sun. Would you suggest that I be less aggressive in terms of pruning to open up the center to sun penetration in these summer conditions?
Any time! Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
One of the best videos I've ever seen on summer pruning. Do you have any experience with partial tip bearers? I have a Bramley seedling and do not have a clue on how to prune it. Following your advice and video, my Gala is doing really well.
Hi Arthur, thanks from Orin. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
I love watching your videos but here in SE Arizona my dwarf fuji tree is full of apples so I can only prune the height because it is in an enclosed garden with a shade cloth above it and the clothe can’t be removed so I keep it’s height in check. Tree is full of apples that I harvest in September/October
You are most welcome! Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
If Ive let my apple tree branches get somewhat long and skinny, can I still trim them and get similar results? Or is it too late? Amazing video, thank you!
Can you (even viewers) recommend some advanced books on this topic? I have read and seen a lot of videos over the internet but it's all for beginners... I would like to study more and learn with practical examples! Thanks
Question, Once the bud flowers late in the season do I pick the bud off or cut it off with pruners or can I leave the flower alone ? Don't want to damage the bud for next year. Assuming you don't want fruit set that late in the season. I live in Ct. Thank You
I am so thankful for your videos! Started my own backyard orchard last late winter, planted dwarf bear root trees and followed your videos. Would we start this technique of creating short laterals in the first summer prune after planting, or second year? Also does the same technique apply to pears?
Yer welcome! Laterals usually develop in the 2nd year after planting, so best to wait until next summer. And yes, pears can be pruned just like apples. Here's more info on summer pruning: agroecology.ucsc.edu/documents/for-the-fruit-grower/summer-pruning.pdf Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: a.co/d/glwePid And here’s the playlist for all of the tree care videos: th-cam.com/play/PLdNOdHei9NV0QjOJDbUTx6wgD-qkiNGah.html
Orin’s video are the best. His book is my Bible. Unfortunately, in Massachusetts we have few to none flowers this year due to weather circumstances. How can I make the most of it this summer season of pruning?
I had 2 plumb , 1 nectarine & 2 plumb trees , evidently had scales as I read the comments, couldn’t find out why the fruit had something like silicone coming out of them all , tried sprays , neem oil etc , gave up & cut them all down , have new plum sprouts coming up now ?????
If I purchased a tree with fruit already, Should I prune them and where? Would I ignore them- be brutal and just continue with the pruning to the wanted form? I am New to trees
So I am a first time pruner and learning a lot from your video but I'm just a little confused here...winter pruning stimulates growth and summer pruning limits growth...yet at the end of this summer pruning video you tip prune the branches to outward facing buds and it appears as if you head the top most growth and state that you are anticipating that this will grow another 2 or 3 feet and thats as tall as you would like it to be...and that the tip pruned branches will continue to grow out and into the light...but I thought that in order to get the outward growth and extension, you prune in winter or when the tree is dormant, and that summer pruning would result in (more often than not) a short growth with a possible bud expression at the tip....and not the extension???
I get the difference between winter and summer pruning. And your videos are so easy to follow. What I’d like to know is if this pruning can be done on all apple trees? Some videos are saying some trees are tip bearing and some are spur bearing and some only bear on 2-4 year wood and it gets super confusing when someone like me plants five different varieties and trying to keep pruning easy so I can remember. Tips?
I understand the dilemma. He is saying this stimulates the buds to form so 2 or 4 year on short laterals is not an issue. I am curious too on the spur varieties. I think that means buds are forming right on the main trunk. On spurs, I wouldn’t take anything off.
Hello. Is it OK to summer prune laterals back at 2 or 3 year old wood instead of current season growth? I have tree entering its 6th year with numerous long laterals that look weak. I don't think these laterals would support the weight of much fruit without breaking. After watching your videos, I realize that many of these should have been summer pruned in prior years.. So any advice on approach to handle these would be appreciated. You did an awesome job in your explanation. Thank you.
Hi Michael - yes you can shorten laterals back into 2-3 year or older wood. If done during the summer after the tree has stopped growing for the year (Orin talks about how to determine this in the video), the tree will respond with little or no extended growth at the cut. Over time, the branch will thicken and strengthen and probably develop additional fruit buds. Good luck with your tree!
@ the 8:42 you say " go with the weak vigor" and lat a vigorous later on the ground meaning I guess remove the water shoot entirely from the tree Did I understand that right
My 10 yrs old apple tree was like an octogenarian after being ignored but in the last winter & this summer i pruned it, fertilised & watered. Now it's like a young vigorous tree. Had a dozen of apples which to my pleasure were consumed by the birds. It has numerous fruit buds now. I reduced its height & gave it a semi open centre shape. Thinned out its vertical shoots. Somebody tell me how to protect its fruits from being spoiled by insects though
Hi Larry, all of us at the farm think so, too! I'm the video producer on this project and it's been such a delight to work with Orin and help to make his knowledge widely available. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Just found this channel today whilst looking for information on pruning saskatoon bushes and have watched parts 1 and 2. Excellent information and presentation skills. I have watched with interest as I have a small orchard here in Scotland with an assortment of apple, plum, pear and cherry trees with blueberry, Saskatoon and Josta berry bushes.
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your trees. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
It was my understanding that apples and pears preferred a single oeader where peaches and plums piked open centers. Is this not true or is there regional differences?
Hi Franz, yer welcome. Glad it was helpful. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
My 2 year old Appel tree has never been pruned and has about 4 apples on the very end of the long straight (branches). Please help if possible. Thank you for your video.🍏
If your tree has never been pruned, it will need to have its first pruning to give it a form that will result in lots of sweet and tasty fruit. The easiest form is the "open center". Here's a video on pruning a young apple tree to the open center form. You will see how the long wispy branches are pruned but by 50% or more. Your tree will benefit from a similar pruning. Have fun with your tree! studio.th-cam.com/users/videoNQYGvEAElTc/edit
This tree's basic structure looks like a double trunk at the base which can cause problems in the future, and an additional limb that grew out of the rootstock below. Kindly explain?
Thanks, this explains a lot to me that just moved to a property with fruit trees. Thanks. Maybe a dum question, but the very last cuts you make, why don't you do that in the winter time to stimulate growth? Isn't there a risk that a fruit bud is going to grow there?
Another good question. On the upper most branch tips, a heading cut in late summer will likely stimulate both vertical growth (not as much as the same cut made in winter) and the growth of fruiting laterals below the cut. And when Orin says 2-3 feet of additional growth...that would happen over a couple more years.
Cutting back the lateral branch to three nodes in a year will add about one foot of length to the branch. Doing this for six years will add six foot. The branch will get too long! How long you repeat this process and what to do when it gets too long. Hack off the branch?
Summer pruning tends to limit or stop a branch's growth. That's one of the reasons to summer prune, whereas winter pruning tends to stimulate growth. If summer pruning is done at the correct time (part 1 of this series tells you how to determine when the tree is ready for summer pruning), the lateral will stop growing, permanently. You may find exceptions, but most of the time summer pruning stops additional growth. It will also tend to thicken the lateral branch so that it can safely bear the weight of the fruit without causing the branch to sag dramatically or break. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
There are pear trees in Northern Italy that are more than 200 years old and still in full production. Apple trees can live 75-100 years in full production. But these are the upper limits. Here's a link that shows the more. common lifespan of many different fruit trees: modernfarmer.com/2018/06/ask-modern-farmer-how-long-do-fruiting-plants-live/
Without seeing the tree, it would be difficult to advise on how to prune. Here's a series of 4 videos showing 4 just planted trees and how to prune them. th-cam.com/video/ZtqxcKLE1Ck/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Xz83TYxbtbiH__-4 And here's another video on the basic pruning cuts and bud types on apple trees...essential knowledge for good pruning: th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html And here's the playlist of all of Orin's tree videos: th-cam.com/play/PLdNOdHei9NV0QjOJDbUTx6wgD-qkiNGah.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: a.co/d/glwePid
Hi Leigh - Without seeing the tree, it's difficult to answer your question. Here it goes...If the tree is still dormant (no leaves or blossoms forming), you can winter prune the scaffold branches (see the video link below). If the tree is growing leaves or blossoms, it's too late to prune the scaffolds and you should wait until winter time when the tree is dormant. Here's another video that covers the basics of pruning and how the tree will respond to different cuts: th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps.
Can i prune my apple tree now in the spring. It is 2 years old and i haven't pruned it. It is fully awake. Or should i wait until mid summer. Im really enjoying the videos, thank you.
Best not to prune in the spring when the tree is fully active. If you want to summer prune, use the guidelines in Part 1 of this video series: th-cam.com/video/9ioGcl7gHgc/w-d-xo.html to know when to summer prune. In this video, Orin shows how to winter prune: th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
The tree was pruned towards the end of August and mentioned in the video. It also explains that the flowering bud was the result of shortening a fruiting lateral. You may want to watch both Part 1 and 2.
Wonderful pruning videos! I never knew the difference between summer and winter pruning. I have a question -- I recently moved to Ecuado, just south of the equator. Do you know if there is a difference in the response of the tree at different times of year? The temps don't change, but we do have a wet and dry season. I just moved to a property with huge avocado and citrus trees that have never been pruned. Any suggestions?
Hi Delisa! Glad the videos are helpful. Yes, there is a considerable difference in the tree's response depending on the season in which you prune. In general, winter pruning stimulates growth and summer (late summer) tends to stop growth. Great question about how fruit trees will respond in a tropical climate. Sorry, but we don't have any experience with growing fruit in the tropics. Almost all fruit trees require a minimum number of chill hours (temps between 32-45 degrees F). I don't think you'd have enough chills hours in the tropics for pome fruit (apples, pears, quince) or stone fruit (peaches, plums, pluots). We've recently pruned several avocados trees on the farm that were 40 feet and taller. We cut them back to about 20 feet and they are all thriving and producing lots of fruit. On the citrus, you can cut back a few feet each year until get the desired height. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Thank you so much for this very helpful and complete reply! I will follow your links to learn more. I'm encouraged to learn of your hard pruning of the very tall avocado tree and that it is now thriving. I've been learning as much as I can about citrus trees and have gotten the same recommendation you provided -- cut back a little every year. Thanks again so very much!
It's Dec 14 here in S. Calif. I have an apple tree that still has leaves and an apple fruit hanging. If I were to prune a lateral today, would it react as in summer pruning or as in winter pruning, ie would that trigger a longer extension after the dormant season, or would it trigger the production of more flower buds closer to the main trunk?
Ahhhh...Good question! You could try the summer pruning techniques and see what happens. It's probably still early enough to get a "summer type" response. But if it responds with vigorous growth (as it would when the tree is dormant), you can always correct for that in the following year. Here's video on winter pruning that may be helpful: th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html Good luck with your treesQ
In early July, the tree will most likely still be growing leaves and branches and fruit. In this other video on summer pruning, it gives clear instructions on how to determine if the tree is ready for summer pruning: th-cam.com/video/9ioGcl7gHgc/w-d-xo.html Good luck with your tree!
Can summer shortening a lateral branch induce quicker fruiting on a standard rootstock apple tree that hasn't had any blossoms yet? Or are there stronger forces that will still prevent early fruiting?
It's best on pomes. Stone fruit are different, especially peaches. Here's a video on the unique fruiting pattern of peaches: th-cam.com/video/HIAGl10RvAQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi, you guys have a lot more knowledge than me so I ask a question: I recently planted two apple trees. There are ants climbing up and I also noticed that the leaves (specially the new ones) roll themselves. When I unwrapped them I noticed some kind of fungus (eggs maybe) under them. How bad is it and how do I treat it? Is that because of the ants or are the ants actually helping fight that? Thank you for any answer/guidance
Sounds like scales. The ants “farm” the scales. They transport the young scales along the branch and the scale then latches on and starts sucking nutrients out of the bark. Then the scale produces a sweet fluid that the ant eats. All to the detriment of the tree. Clever ants!
Hi Coleman, there's no "right way" to form the structure on most species of fruit trees. We tend to teach the open center form because it's easier to learn/develop than a central leader form and most of our audience are home orchardists. Either form, if done even "mostly right", will produce a strong healthy tree and lots of fruit. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Probably not yet. Watch "Part 1" of this series and Orin will describe different ways to determine when it's time to summer prune. This link will take you to the place in the video where he talks about the indicators: th-cam.com/video/9ioGcl7gHgc/w-d-xo.html
In Germany, i have never seen apple-trees pruned to a vase-like shape with the main branches going up at such steep angles. I guess we would be too afraid of the branches bowing down to the ground or even breaking by the sheer weight of the fruits. Also, we prefer to have a clear space in the low area/storey for easier handling/maintenence of the terrain.
Thanks for your comment. The open center form is very commonly used in commercial orchards across much of the USA. We film the videos for this channel at 2 different farms where almost all of the trees (more than 1,000 trees) are pruned to open center. By limiting the length of the fruiting laterals with summer pruning, you can control the load of fruit on the tree and keep the branches from breaking. We also thin the fruit after "fruit set" to limit the fruit to 1 or 2 apples per bud. BUT! There are many variations on pruning techniques that will result in a healthy and productive tree. If you have a method that works well for you, stick with it.
Hi Matt - yer welcome! Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”: agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Glad it was helpful. Sorry, but Orin gets far more requests for guidance than he can respond to. But he does have an award winning book that you may find helpful, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: a.co/d/glwePid And here’s the playlist for all of Orin's tree care videos: www.youtube.com/ watch?v=9ioGcl7gHgc&list=PLdNOdHei9NV0QjOJDbUTx6wgD-qkiNGah
It's orchardist jargon for pruning a branch. When you make the pruning cut, the branch falls to the ground, thus, "put it on the ground". Yah...a little wonky.
Difficult to do anything 'right' without knowing the WHY behind what you're doing - and you made it very clear thank you :)
I went out to my new budding orchard and looked at my trees. For the first time, I felt like I actually knew what I should and shouldn't do! Thank you and God Bless.
I wish I had teachers like you when I was in college. Actually, I feel like I'm in class watching your videos.
Orin - This series you have done is so useful and barely does justice to your wealth of knowledge. I only wish I had seen these a few years ago when we planted our apples, pears, apricots and peaches. I will begin with the winter tips next week and then carry on with the summer on August 18th! Thankyou so much.
Wow, thank you! Great thing about fruit trees is that they are quite forgiving of our mistakes that we can correct in the following years. Apple trees well cared for can be at top production for 75-150 years. There are pear trees in Italy that are around 250 years old and still in full production. Good luck with your trees!
I learned more in a short time from this video, than the hrs I spent on other videos. Thank you for explaining the ways and whys of pruning.
Thank you so much for doing this series of videos WITH updates on the trees progression! Videos like this are so incredibly helpful!!! I have five fruit trees and just recently trimmed them based off your videos! Thank you! Your trees are beautiful too!
You are so welcome! Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Best pruning video i have ever seen. Wish he had one for every fruit, AND japanese maples!
Watched both parts to this. We have 6 step over espaliered Pear and Apple trees that produce quite well. For the first time ever, I understand the processes - thanks to this. Some of my previous work has obviously been detrimental and I can see why. It'll take probably 2 years to make the restorations necessary. Thank you so so much!! 👍
Wow! Very helpful and interesting video. That was also an extremely articulate lesson that was just downright pleasurable to listen to. You are the C. S. Forester, one of my favorite authors, of pruning!
I am so fortunate to have found your videos. I am trying to learn how to deal with fruit trees and these videos are invaluable. I love your in-depth explanations and discussion of the tree physiology.
Your detailed photos with red circles really help to explain the technical terms I read about. It can be very confusing so thank you for explaining so well. I've been summer pruning near the summer solstice (June 20).
Long story short, after 10 years of pruning neglect I took over an espalier, pruned it hard and the next year got a ton of apples. The next year I followed some poor advice and pruned in the middle of winter in which meant I may have cut off my flower blossoms, and I got one apple. So last year, I was told to stop pruning in the middle of August but I pruned once more in late September because it was so overgrown from the mid-august prune. Now I only have about 10 blossoms. Someone told me that I may have run into a biennial bearing problem by overcropping one year and the tree didn't make flower buds for the next. I'm near Vancouver BC and if I leave my espalier apple tree until mid-August it is so overgrown.
I don't know when to start pruning, or should I prune continuously in the growing season?
Hi Julie, glad to hear the video was helpful. When pruning, it's essential to know the bud types on apple trees. If you cut off all of the fruiting buds, you won't any apples for at least a year or longer. Here's a video where Orin explains the different bud types and how to prune accordingly. Hopefully, it's of some help: th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html
Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
@@ucscagroecology Thank you for the quick reply! I will check out the links. My apple is spur bearing (not tip) and I did prune yesterday. There are a ton of fruit spurs (clusters where the apples would grow). I think what has happened is 2 years ago I hard pruned the laterals so much I did cut off all the fruit spurs. So last year, I pruned to create the fruiting spurs and this year they are there but immature? does that make sense? It's like I'm restructuring and old tree into a new one! How many years will an individual fruit spur produce apples?
@@juliebishop6898 Fruit buds appear on 2 year old wood or older. On the new buds appearing, they should flower next spring. Apple fruit buds can last 8-10 years.
@@ucscagroecology Thank you! I really appreciate your help. The links above are very helpful. :)
@@ucscagroecology Great news! The pruning I did to create new fruiting spurs worked! I have a ton of flowers all over the espalier! Now I just have to find the video that explained the flowers and how to thin.
Amazing!!!! Thank you!!! I have a two year Bosch pear that went crazy with new growth this spring and summer. I'm looking at it and it's making me crazy it has so much new growth on it. Now I can prune instruction and confidence. Thank you!!!
Great explanation of the how, but most importantly the why, of how to prune apples. Excellent!
Hi Orin, I have watched a great many, if not most, of your apple tree pruning videos, plus a few others, multiple times, and I must say they are by far the best instructional videos available and are an absolute pleasure to watch! No hype - just pure old school knowledge with a little bit of light humour mixed in! Your voice is so calming - you should seriously consider doing ASMR pruning videos to enhance your income stream! 😂
I have also just bought your book here in the UK and am making my way through it!
In this video (and others) you mention "pinching off" the excess flowers to leave 1 or 2 to produce fruit at a specific site - I wonder if you could do a video which includes a demonstration of your technique for the pinching off of flowers, explaining 'the where's, the why's and the how's', as you always do, so as not to damage the fruit bud, etc. I believe it's the only thing that's missing from your videos (unless I've just not come across it yet) and I'd be very grateful!
All the very best.
Thanks for your kind words. Great to hear that the videos are helpful. We don't have a thinning video in the works, but it's quite easy to do. Best to wait until the apples are about small cherry sized so you can be sure that the fruit has set. The general idea is to remove the smallest apples and leave the 1 or 2 largest. The easiest way to remove the apples and not damage the fruit bud is to use a pair of needle-nosed pruners like the ARS HP-300LDX Stainless Steel Needle Nose Fruit Pruners and carefully cut the stem just below the apple. Best of luck with your trees!
My uncle is 70 and said the tree behind his barn was there from before he was born since he remembers it as a little kid.
So it’s a 70+ year old Laxton’s Superb Apple tree.
It gets swamped with hundreds of smaller fruit every second year.
We have to spend nearly two days up a ladder collecting bucketfuls when it’s late October mid-November.
They are good keepers too, he only ran out in mid-April this year and that was the weak year’s crop.
The tree is easily 6.5-8metres tall and I would say the spread is even wider at probably 7.5-10metres.
We have a job now to prune it a bit each year to get it manageable and under control for future years crop picking.
He has taken some scion and got some grafts to take when attending a local fruit group grafting course where they sell two types of scion so eventually he hopes to fell the original and plant one of the new trees in it’s place to carry on for the next 100years.
It sounds beautiful, also the relation your family must have to that tree... just hope the apples are also that good!:D
But please don't fell the old tree! maybe there is some other way to still plant the newly grafted ones, but it would be a shame to kill such an impressive creature! think about all the information collected over 70+ years on this location, the complexity of such an ecosystem! Also, the biodiversity in a tree is the highest, when it dies naturally. If you want to care in the best manner for the piece of land your owning, leave that tree til forever, until it breaks down itself. A huge creature like this enriches a place over these 70, 80, 90, 100, + years so much more than we ever could.
In my personal view, we are to treat these old trees as sacred, they are supposed to be, as they are on this place, otherwise they wouldn't have made it that long. not every tree you plant is the right plant to the right place in the right time.
And isnt this being more than a friend to your family, then just a food producer? after such a long and intimidate bond with your family, doesn't this tree have way more to offer to you, then fruit?
All I want to say, maybe consider leaving the tree as it is, imagine ripping out an element like this out of that place, an accumulator of mammals, reptiles, birds, insects, fungi, bacteria, biomass feeding the ground, producing good air, shading the ground, sheltering so much life. taking this away until the new tree is around 40-50 years old too, if it even makes it that far considering how climate is getting harsher especially for planting trees, well taking this away for the next decades until the new tree can produce an considerable amount of the elements I just enlisted, would be catastrophic to the ecosystem on your piece of land.
Maybe there is a way to plant one or even two trees close to the old one, even now. and when it dies back, there is gonna be more and more light and space for the new trees to come through. Also they will be sheltered in their young years by the big mother tree and supported through it feeding the soils mycorrhizal network specifically necessary for an apple tree to flourish on this place.
@@lennarth367 what an elequent and moving response.
Looking good Orin ! Great video and always a treat to learn from the Master...Thank You !
What a video and knowledge! Can someone comment when is the summer cut done (assuming CA). Couldn't see a time frame on the month. Thx
Fantastic video! Brilliantly delivered, managed to understand what was being said very well 😅
Thank you for your time to train us.
I love his passion for pruning!
Best video I have seen on this topic out of dozens!
Part 1 and 2 are excellent videos. I'm going to school for Hort in los Altos
Thanks a lot ! The best lessons on pruning. Take care and greetings from Croatia.
One of the best and most detailed lessons on pruning. Thank You!! I live in Zone 9a, inland from the coast outside Los Angeles, with summer temps frequently above 100-106. I tend to get trunk burn from the sun if I leave the center of the tree too open to sunlight. This is especially true for my fig trees for which I use an organic product to paint the truck. My citrus, persimmons, peaches, apricots and tangelos seem to not be as susceptible to direct summer sun. Would you suggest that I be less aggressive in terms of pruning to open up the center to sun penetration in these summer conditions?
I’m in 9a as well and would like to hear the answer to this question.
Great and knowledgeable explanation dear. Thanks and God bless you.
Thanks and welcome
Man, this really is informative. I love these videos!
Glad you like them!
Awesome 👍 just awesome . Thank you for your time brother.
Any time! Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Pretty sure its spring in your video...and I have watched both videos many times and really liked them, but thanks for the response
One of the best videos I've ever seen on summer pruning. Do you have any experience with partial tip bearers? I have a Bramley seedling and do not have a clue on how to prune it. Following your advice and video, my Gala is doing really well.
Have a Bramley too, wondering the same thing as I’ve heard the standard model can’t be applied strictly to these
An excellent teacher. Thank you.
Hi Arthur, thanks from Orin. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
I love watching your videos but here in SE Arizona my dwarf fuji tree is full of apples so I can only prune the height because it is in an enclosed garden with a shade cloth above it and the clothe can’t be removed so I keep it’s height in check. Tree is full of apples that I harvest in September/October
I have so many doubts related to pruning consept.It's very informative sir. Tq u so much..I'm phD fruit science student from India
You are most welcome! Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
If Ive let my apple tree branches get somewhat long and skinny, can I still trim them and get similar results? Or is it too late? Amazing video, thank you!
yes, do it
When you say don’t cut too much off in one session, what does that time frame indicate?
Can you (even viewers) recommend some advanced books on this topic? I have read and seen a lot of videos over the internet but it's all for beginners... I would like to study more and learn with practical examples!
Thanks
Question, Once the bud flowers late in the season do I pick the bud off or cut it off with pruners or can I leave the flower alone ? Don't want to damage the bud for next year. Assuming you don't want fruit set that late in the season. I live in Ct.
Thank You
I am so thankful for your videos! Started my own backyard orchard last late winter, planted dwarf bear root trees and followed your videos. Would we start this technique of creating short laterals in the first summer prune after planting, or second year? Also does the same technique apply to pears?
Yer welcome! Laterals usually develop in the 2nd year after planting, so best to wait until next summer. And yes, pears can be pruned just like apples. Here's more info on summer pruning:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/documents/for-the-fruit-grower/summer-pruning.pdf
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: a.co/d/glwePid
And here’s the playlist for all of the tree care videos: th-cam.com/play/PLdNOdHei9NV0QjOJDbUTx6wgD-qkiNGah.html
Orin’s video are the best. His book is my Bible. Unfortunately, in Massachusetts we have few to none flowers this year due to weather circumstances. How can I make the most of it this summer season of pruning?
Do you seal the cuts?How much of the flowers you pinch off?😢
I had 2 plumb , 1 nectarine & 2 plumb trees , evidently had scales as I read the comments, couldn’t find out why the fruit had something like silicone coming out of them all , tried sprays , neem oil etc , gave up & cut them all down , have new plum sprouts coming up now ?????
This was very helpful! Thank you!
I live along the front range in Colorado at about 6400 feet elevation. What month would be the right time to do summer pruning in Colorado?
If I purchased a tree with fruit already, Should I prune them and where? Would I ignore them- be brutal and just continue with the pruning to the wanted form? I am New to trees
Thanks!! Just what I was looking for
So I am a first time pruner and learning a lot from your video but I'm just a little confused here...winter pruning stimulates growth and summer pruning limits growth...yet at the end of this summer pruning video you tip prune the branches to outward facing buds and it appears as if you head the top most growth and state that you are anticipating that this will grow another 2 or 3 feet and thats as tall as you would like it to be...and that the tip pruned branches will continue to grow out and into the light...but I thought that in order to get the outward growth and extension, you prune in winter or when the tree is dormant, and that summer pruning would result in (more often than not) a short growth with a possible bud expression at the tip....and not the extension???
The video was filmed in spring, so the cut made will induce growth.
I get the difference between winter and summer pruning. And your videos are so easy to follow. What I’d like to know is if this pruning can be done on all apple trees? Some videos are saying some trees are tip bearing and some are spur bearing and some only bear on 2-4 year wood and it gets super confusing when someone like me plants five different varieties and trying to keep pruning easy so I can remember. Tips?
I understand the dilemma. He is saying this stimulates the buds to form so 2 or 4 year on short laterals is not an issue. I am curious too on the spur varieties. I think that means buds are forming right on the main trunk. On spurs, I wouldn’t take anything off.
Hello. Is it OK to summer prune laterals back at 2 or 3 year old wood instead of current season growth? I have tree entering its 6th year with numerous long laterals that look weak. I don't think these laterals would support the weight of much fruit without breaking. After watching your videos, I realize that many of these should have been summer pruned in prior years.. So any advice on approach to handle these would be appreciated. You did an awesome job in your explanation. Thank you.
Hi Michael - yes you can shorten laterals back into 2-3 year or older wood. If done during the summer after the tree has stopped growing for the year (Orin talks about how to determine this in the video), the tree will respond with little or no extended growth at the cut. Over time, the branch will thicken and strengthen and probably develop additional fruit buds. Good luck with your tree!
@ the 8:42 you say " go with the weak vigor" and lat a vigorous later on the ground meaning I guess remove the water shoot entirely from the tree
Did I understand that right
My 10 yrs old apple tree was like an octogenarian after being ignored but in the last winter & this summer i pruned it, fertilised & watered. Now it's like a young vigorous tree. Had a dozen of apples which to my pleasure were consumed by the birds. It has numerous fruit buds now. I reduced its height & gave it a semi open centre shape. Thinned out its vertical shoots. Somebody tell me how to protect its fruits from being spoiled by insects though
Can the same be said for stone fruits? This same strategy?
How do you keep wild animals from your fruit trees, such as Deer, Squirrels, Raccoons, etc
Michael
What a treasure Orin is.
Hi Larry, all of us at the farm think so, too! I'm the video producer on this project and it's been such a delight to work with Orin and help to make his knowledge widely available. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Just found this channel today whilst looking for information on pruning saskatoon bushes and have watched parts 1 and 2. Excellent information and presentation skills. I have watched with interest as I have a small orchard here in Scotland with an assortment of apple, plum, pear and cherry trees with blueberry, Saskatoon and Josta berry bushes.
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your trees. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
It was my understanding that apples and pears preferred a single oeader where peaches and plums piked open centers. Is this not true or is there regional differences?
Either form works fine. We mostly demonstrate the open enter form because it's easier than a leader form, especially for beginner orchardists.
you are very wise sir, thank you
Thanks Orin. I'd love to have had your video's on TH-cam 25 years ago.. 😂.
Hi Franz, yer welcome. Glad it was helpful. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
My 2 year old Appel tree has never been pruned and has about 4 apples on the very end of the long straight (branches). Please help if possible. Thank you for your video.🍏
If your tree has never been pruned, it will need to have its first pruning to give it a form that will result in lots of sweet and tasty fruit. The easiest form is the "open center". Here's a video on pruning a young apple tree to the open center form. You will see how the long wispy branches are pruned but by 50% or more. Your tree will benefit from a similar pruning. Have fun with your tree!
studio.th-cam.com/users/videoNQYGvEAElTc/edit
@@ucscagroecology thanks for your reply 👍👍
This tree's basic structure looks like a double trunk at the base which can cause problems in the future, and an additional limb that grew out of the rootstock below. Kindly explain?
Please explain what problems you see? Thanks
Thanks, this explains a lot to me that just moved to a property with fruit trees. Thanks. Maybe a dum question, but the very last cuts you make, why don't you do that in the winter time to stimulate growth? Isn't there a risk that a fruit bud is going to grow there?
Another good question. On the upper most branch tips, a heading cut in late summer will likely stimulate both vertical growth (not as much as the same cut made in winter) and the growth of fruiting laterals below the cut. And when Orin says 2-3 feet of additional growth...that would happen over a couple more years.
Cutting back the lateral branch to three nodes in a year will add about one foot of length to the branch. Doing this for six years will add six foot. The branch will get too long! How long you repeat this process and what to do when it gets too long. Hack off the branch?
Summer pruning tends to limit or stop a branch's growth. That's one of the reasons to summer prune, whereas winter pruning tends to stimulate growth. If summer pruning is done at the correct time (part 1 of this series tells you how to determine when the tree is ready for summer pruning), the lateral will stop growing, permanently. You may find exceptions, but most of the time summer pruning stops additional growth. It will also tend to thicken the lateral branch so that it can safely bear the weight of the fruit without causing the branch to sag dramatically or break.
Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Just wondering how do you apply these principles to espalier Apple trees
Hi, great videos. I live in southern Spain. What is the life span of a pear tree, plum trees and the peach/nectarine family? Thanks
There are pear trees in Northern Italy that are more than 200 years old and still in full production. Apple trees can live 75-100 years in full production. But these are the upper limits. Here's a link that shows the more. common lifespan of many different fruit trees: modernfarmer.com/2018/06/ask-modern-farmer-how-long-do-fruiting-plants-live/
Thank you so much. These are good info to have in the tool kit.
I have an apple tree that is just a single leader an also one that is split into 3. Should I keep the single leader as a leaner
Without seeing the tree, it would be difficult to advise on how to prune. Here's a series of 4 videos showing 4 just planted trees and how to prune them.
th-cam.com/video/ZtqxcKLE1Ck/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Xz83TYxbtbiH__-4
And here's another video on the basic pruning cuts and bud types on apple trees...essential knowledge for good pruning:
th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html
And here's the playlist of all of Orin's tree videos:
th-cam.com/play/PLdNOdHei9NV0QjOJDbUTx6wgD-qkiNGah.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: a.co/d/glwePid
Wonderful! I have a two year old honeycrisp here in Idaho. Scaffold branches are long and spindly. Can I summer prune them in late may or early June?
Hi Leigh - Without seeing the tree, it's difficult to answer your question. Here it goes...If the tree is still dormant (no leaves or blossoms forming), you can winter prune the scaffold branches (see the video link below). If the tree is growing leaves or blossoms, it's too late to prune the scaffolds and you should wait until winter time when the tree is dormant.
Here's another video that covers the basics of pruning and how the tree will respond to different cuts: th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps.
Can i prune my apple tree now in the spring. It is 2 years old and i haven't pruned it. It is fully awake. Or should i wait until mid summer. Im really enjoying the videos, thank you.
Best not to prune in the spring when the tree is fully active. If you want to summer prune, use the guidelines in Part 1 of this video series: th-cam.com/video/9ioGcl7gHgc/w-d-xo.html to know when to summer prune. In this video, Orin shows how to winter prune: th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html.
Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
@@ucscagroecology thank you
Also...are you pruning in the spring cuz those look like flowers on the trees...or are they success stories that will need the flowers nipped off?
The tree was pruned towards the end of August and mentioned in the video. It also explains that the flowering bud was the result of shortening a fruiting lateral. You may want to watch both Part 1 and 2.
Wonderful pruning videos! I never knew the difference between summer and winter pruning. I have a question -- I recently moved to Ecuado, just south of the equator. Do you know if there is a difference in the response of the tree at different times of year? The temps don't change, but we do have a wet and dry season. I just moved to a property with huge avocado and citrus trees that have never been pruned. Any suggestions?
Hi Delisa! Glad the videos are helpful. Yes, there is a considerable difference in the tree's response depending on the season in which you prune. In general, winter pruning stimulates growth and summer (late summer) tends to stop growth. Great question about how fruit trees will respond in a tropical climate. Sorry, but we don't have any experience with growing fruit in the tropics. Almost all fruit trees require a minimum number of chill hours (temps between 32-45 degrees F). I don't think you'd have enough chills hours in the tropics for pome fruit (apples, pears, quince) or stone fruit (peaches, plums, pluots). We've recently pruned several avocados trees on the farm that were 40 feet and taller. We cut them back to about 20 feet and they are all thriving and producing lots of fruit. On the citrus, you can cut back a few feet each year until get the desired height. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Thank you so much for this very helpful and complete reply! I will follow your links to learn more. I'm encouraged to learn of your hard pruning of the very tall avocado tree and that it is now thriving. I've been learning as much as I can about citrus trees and have gotten the same recommendation you provided -- cut back a little every year. Thanks again so very much!
So helpful! Thank you for this.
Thank you for these useful tips.
Phenomenal education
If you ever fancy a vacation in England I could sure use your help with my apple & pear trees. 😂
It's Dec 14 here in S. Calif. I have an apple tree that still has leaves and an apple fruit hanging. If I were to prune a lateral today, would it react as in summer pruning or as in winter pruning, ie would that trigger a longer extension after the dormant season, or would it trigger the production of more flower buds closer to the main trunk?
Ahhhh...Good question! You could try the summer pruning techniques and see what happens. It's probably still early enough to get a "summer type" response. But if it responds with vigorous growth (as it would when the tree is dormant), you can always correct for that in the following year. Here's video on winter pruning that may be helpful:
th-cam.com/video/p_-f610rFEU/w-d-xo.html
Good luck with your treesQ
Is it ok to summer prune an apple tree in early july of 13 years old please try to help me out
In early July, the tree will most likely still be growing leaves and branches and fruit. In this other video on summer pruning, it gives clear instructions on how to determine if the tree is ready for summer pruning: th-cam.com/video/9ioGcl7gHgc/w-d-xo.html
Good luck with your tree!
Can summer shortening a lateral branch induce quicker fruiting on a standard rootstock apple tree that hasn't had any blossoms yet? Or are there stronger forces that will still prevent early fruiting?
Is this approach applicable to stone fruit as well, or is it best used with pomes? Thanks!
It's best on pomes. Stone fruit are different, especially peaches. Here's a video on the unique fruiting pattern of peaches:
th-cam.com/video/HIAGl10RvAQ/w-d-xo.html
@@ucscagroecology Thank you for taking the time and directing me to more information. I'm working on grafting a prune plum partly over to apricot.
Thank you and I will apply your method
Glad it was helpful. Good luck with your trees. Look around the channel and you'll find lots more videos on pruning and tree care.
Hi, you guys have a lot more knowledge than me so I ask a question: I recently planted two apple trees. There are ants climbing up and I also noticed that the leaves (specially the new ones) roll themselves. When I unwrapped them I noticed some kind of fungus (eggs maybe) under them. How bad is it and how do I treat it? Is that because of the ants or are the ants actually helping fight that?
Thank you for any answer/guidance
Sounds like scales. The ants “farm” the scales. They transport the young scales along the branch and the scale then latches on and starts sucking nutrients out of the bark. Then the scale produces a sweet fluid that the ant eats. All to the detriment of the tree. Clever ants!
@@moussataouk7495 yeah, you are right. Will have to kill those ants. Thank you.
Thank you for a very good and instruktiv video,
I’ve always heard peach trees need open center, but pear snd apple are central leader. This seems to say all are open center.
Hi Coleman, there's no "right way" to form the structure on most species of fruit trees. We tend to teach the open center form because it's easier to learn/develop than a central leader form and most of our audience are home orchardists. Either form, if done even "mostly right", will produce a strong healthy tree and lots of fruit. Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Good job young man 🔥
Please do a fig and peach!
It’s summer and my apple tree is growing apples. Still prune?
Probably not yet. Watch "Part 1" of this series and Orin will describe different ways to determine when it's time to summer prune. This link will take you to the place in the video where he talks about the indicators: th-cam.com/video/9ioGcl7gHgc/w-d-xo.html
@@ucscagroecology Thank you! Now I have your entire lecture. New subscriber now. My tree and I appreciate your content.
In Germany, i have never seen apple-trees pruned to a vase-like shape with the main branches going up at such steep angles. I guess we would be too afraid of the branches bowing down to the ground or even breaking by the sheer weight of the fruits. Also, we prefer to have a clear space in the low area/storey for easier handling/maintenence of the terrain.
Thanks for your comment. The open center form is very commonly used in commercial orchards across much of the USA. We film the videos for this channel at 2 different farms where almost all of the trees (more than 1,000 trees) are pruned to open center. By limiting the length of the fruiting laterals with summer pruning, you can control the load of fruit on the tree and keep the branches from breaking. We also thin the fruit after "fruit set" to limit the fruit to 1 or 2 apples per bud.
BUT! There are many variations on pruning techniques that will result in a healthy and productive tree. If you have a method that works well for you, stick with it.
Does summer pruning applies for places with shorter growing seasons like Colorado (5B growing zone)?
Yes. The window is shorter for summer pruning in colder climates, but the tree's response will be the same.
Thanku sir..
It's helpfull and intresting
Great vids!
Thank you!
Hallo, whensummer pruning
In part 1 of "Summer Pruning", Orin demonstrates how to tell the tree is ready for summer pruning: th-cam.com/video/9ioGcl7gHgc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you
Thankyou😊👍🏼🍀🌎💚🍏
Hi Matt - yer welcome! Below is a link to several dozen more fruit tree care videos. Scroll down to the section called: “Getting Started with Fruit Trees Organically”:
agroecology.ucsc.edu/resources/instructional-videos.html
Don't miss Orin Martin's award winning book, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: www.amazon.com/Fruit-Trees-Every-Garden-Approach/dp/0399580026/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3N8Y1MP3KB6DZ&keywords=orin+martin&qid=1650397395&s=books&sprefix=orin+martin%2Cstripbooks%2C522&sr=1-1
Great video. You master of apple trees . I want practical with you
Its working 👍
Nice sir
My brother over-pruned our Apple tree and it died !
Thank you so much for this prunning education. Can I reach you through whatsapp for guidance please?
Glad it was helpful. Sorry, but Orin gets far more requests for guidance than he can respond to. But he does have an award winning book that you may find helpful, "Fruit Trees for Every Garden: An Organic Approach to Growing Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Citrus, and More". His book won the 2020 American Horticultural Society (AHS) Award, recognizing outstanding gardening literature. You can purchase the book here: a.co/d/glwePid
And here’s the playlist for all of Orin's tree care videos: www.youtube.com/ watch?v=9ioGcl7gHgc&list=PLdNOdHei9NV0QjOJDbUTx6wgD-qkiNGah
8:36. Weak Vigor
what does "put it on the ground and thin it" mean? after you said "if it's vigorous" please expand??
It's orchardist jargon for pruning a branch. When you make the pruning cut, the branch falls to the ground, thus, "put it on the ground". Yah...a little wonky.
Would you make that limb cut in Summer or wait for dormancy period?@@ucscagroecology