Nice and simple to adjust the A10's tappets but the tricky job on these, is locating the four pushrods onto the rocker arm sockets while hidden out of view. The famous BSA 'comb' tool is essential and placed between the head and rocker box, to locate these...but then that 'wipes' off any sealant you've used, under the r'box, against the head when you pull it out. I once saw a modified rocker box with an 'access hatch'' cut into the top of it directly above the top of the push rods, which cancels the need for the comb. i might do that to my A10. Thanks for the video.
Takes me back to the very early '70's. I had a C11G with oval bore and I couldn't afford a rebore or replacement barrel, so I had to replace the rings about every three weeks. Got it down to about 45 minutes in total; hardest part was keeping the pushrods in place as I lowered the head. Only place I had to store/work on the bike was the dingy coal-shed, so not ideal conditions!
Are Imperial wrench sizes the same as SAE (that’s what we use in the States)? I thought you might need some Whitworth wrenches, but I could be wrong. I had a Vespa GS150 for a while. It used a lot of 11mm and 14mm bolts. I puzzled over that until I realized, to your point, 11mm is close to 7/16” SAE and 14mm was 1/2 inch or 9/16 if I recall correctly. Nobody in the States would have metric wrenches in the 1950s, so it was kind of a good idea. Also did you say one of the intake valves was broken?
On my 1958 GF, the seat bracket stays on the mudguard and the seat is attached to it with an extended headed bolt that threads up into the seat base on each side. The seat can literally be removed in two minutes with one spanner; much simpler than what you had to do, is yours of a different design?
@ I guess the guys at BSA re -designed it to make things easier; it impressed me anyway! The part number for the seat rear support bracket on mine is 42-9196.
Nice and simple to adjust the A10's tappets but the tricky job on these, is locating the four pushrods onto the rocker arm sockets while hidden out of view. The famous BSA 'comb' tool is essential
and placed between the head and rocker box, to locate these...but then that 'wipes' off any sealant you've used, under the r'box, against the head when you pull it out. I once saw a modified rocker box with an 'access hatch'' cut into the top of it directly above the top of the push rods, which cancels the need for the comb. i might do that to my A10. Thanks for the video.
True
Fortunately I’m only adjusting and not assembling here
there appears to be a severe lack of tea. Mrs Bikerdood need to get on the case
I edit out Tea breaks
Of course I had them
@@bikerdood1100 well please pass on my apologies to Mrs bikerdood for casting aspersions about her looking after you properly on the tea front
Takes me back to the very early '70's. I had a C11G with oval bore and I couldn't afford a rebore or replacement barrel, so I had to replace the rings about every three weeks. Got it down to about 45 minutes in total; hardest part was keeping the pushrods in place as I lowered the head. Only place I had to store/work on the bike was the dingy coal-shed, so not ideal conditions!
Good practice in every way
Oh boy I just picked up an A65 and a B44 Shooting Star. I love those Beesas
Nice 👍
Are Imperial wrench sizes the same as SAE (that’s what we use in the States)? I thought you might need some Whitworth wrenches, but I could be wrong.
I had a Vespa GS150 for a while. It used a lot of 11mm and 14mm bolts. I puzzled over that until I realized, to your point, 11mm is close to 7/16” SAE and 14mm was 1/2 inch or 9/16 if I recall correctly. Nobody in the States would have metric wrenches in the 1950s, so it was kind of a good idea.
Also did you say one of the intake valves was broken?
No the valves are fine ?
Wrench sizes can be complicated on British stuff if the 50s
As types can vary
It’s sometimes a matter of trial and error
On my 1958 GF, the seat bracket stays on the mudguard and the seat is attached to it with an extended headed bolt that threads up into the seat base on each side. The seat can literally be removed in two minutes with one spanner; much simpler than what you had to do, is yours of a different design?
Well mine is a 54 model
I expect there are quite a few variations out there
@ I guess the guys at BSA re -designed it to make things easier; it impressed me anyway! The part number for the seat rear support bracket on mine is 42-9196.
1/2” nut and bolt?😁
Nuts
Probably