I graduated from a three year vocational school for masonry in 82. I spent 10 years in the trade first starting with a small contractor with a crew of four. I was lucky enough to that one of the masons was an old timer and he took a liking to me over the other crew and mentored me for the year before I moved on. I learned as much from him in one year as I did in the three in vocational school. It takes many years to be be very good and proficient at this trade and after ten years I was at that point. Only picked up my trowel a couple of times since then but once I got started it was like I never left. It is a skill and art that once mastered you don't loose. I like watching your videos and reminiscing. You remind me of the old timer that mentored me, patient and explained everything. I guess its always in your heart.
I enjoy attending the M.H.S.O.C.S. I even tell people my 3 hardest years in school was 2nd grade.lol. It so nice to have a nice easy going journeyman to help show us some things. Thanks Mike.
Mike, I enjoy your videos and your commentary at the end. I am an inspector in California and out here , structural block walls have #5 and sometimes #6 horizontal and vertical fully grouted due to our earthquakes. Our walls have to defy gravity! Amazing how our State has us construct these walls to hold together up and down AND sideways!
Hi David, it’s a different world out there for sure, around here it,s the frost and freezing that does the damage, and the rebar rots away , expands and bust up the concrete eventually unless you can keep it dry, thanks Mike
Thanks for the videos. This video series filled in a lot of blanks for me and given me the confidence to tackle an add-on to one of my ancient rental properties in an area where it is very hard to find help.
Hi Mike. This video is a great education on masonary construction . It is a trade where you have to be creative and work smart with many different methods. Thank You for sharing with the public . It is very entertaining channel to watch!
I was a carpenter for a number of years I sure would have liked to follow you on some jobs. We had to work around some real flub ups by block layers. 1973 seems like yesterday, I was young and tuff. I learned to work from men from the depression Era and will veterans. That's when integraty ment something. Spell check doesn' t even know what the word is.
Quality information very knowledgeable indeed must watched few hours worth of your videos today as off work with the lockdown we’re currently experiencing with this virus. Mike take care mate and stay heathy. 😎😎
Wonderful video! I am doing a similar addition just smaller but not sure how to connect the cinder block to the house wall. I believe code requires holes drilled in the old foundation and a connection with re-bar needs to be made. I cant find any video on you tube that shows how to do a re-bar connection between old concrete walls and cinder block, do you happen to have a video on this detail? Thank you for all the knowledge you give to our communities.
Nice video again Mike. If I am building my own house , and I have complete choice over what materials to use, should I use block or brick? What are the advantages and disadvantages to both? Also, what about pouring the walls? Thanks
I really can’t say, there’s so many options, in every area of the country is different, but i would I ask the old-timers, and get some feedback from them, that would help thanks Mike
I was a tender for many years I no what you what you mean I'm from Boston and worked with a lot of old school Italians and learned a lot still use what they showed me
brother is an underground driller around one mile under ground , today they struck red granite, took them 10 hours to drill 10ft, when you mentioned God made rocks you reminded me of your pyramid videos and granite tools.
How many kg of portland did this wall take? When you fill the blocks, do you not like stomp in/on them, so that it all gets compressed properly? The wall looks beautiful.
Hi whiz , I personally leave rod holes empty till the end, then I know I poured it one solid piece, but you can tell when the cement is getting down there, sometimes guys will take a hose and wet the hole first To make sure it flows properly but again every job is different you can’t do it if you’re going over 7 courses, you have to piece it in, I hope that makes sense, thanks Mike
Hi Mike, You really know your craft and you get it. Not everyone does. The people who care about what they do and why they do it are the ones who see the big picture. A few years ago one of the DOT agencies came out with a report the concrete bridges are failing because the rebar is rusting and expanding causing the concrete to crack... They should have just asked you. 🙂 In your link to your masonry hammer, it is for a milled face hammer. Is there much of a difference between a smooth face vs a milled face brick hammer? In your opinion... Thanks, Steven
Thanks for passing along your knowledge. In the old days before Vocational Schools this is how information was passed on, man to man on the job site. That’s how I learned 95% of what I know. Additionally, with concrete block how many courses do you go between your support iron. The bricklayer who I worked with taught me that on most strait runs it’s every 5 courses for brick, especially in walls exceeding 70 feet. I know everyone has their own methods but what do you suggest when laying concrete block. Keep on training the next generation!
Hi George, I cannot say what you should use because that’s up to the inspector, and all depends on the job, But it’s true that nobody is learning from the old timers, one reason is they made it so hard to hire people that nobody’s passing it on, thanks for the comment I appreciate it Mike
Fiberglass composite rebar is the way to go. It will not corrode. More expensive than steel but if you are building something to last, it is worth the extra expense.
Hi John, I use fibers in concrete & some stucco, but the concrete companies only guarantee no cracks for 24 hours, but I agree regular rebar is garbage in the long run, I hope the fiberglass proves itself, thanks Mike
I've seen a lot of people use rebar to tie in old wall to new wall, but you didn't use any of that. I'm really curious about that! I've got an addition coming up and I'm connecting to my rubble stone foundation with block. I want to make sure it doesn't shift later. What would you do in a situation like that?
Hi, every situation is different, I found that most inspectors will tell you to put it in, even if you don't need it, so it would be up to him, thanks mike
Hi findscl. Thanks around these parts it is suppose to be double the thickness of the block. So if the block is 12 inches the footer should be 24, thanks mike
Mike, the completed job looks very nice. Like you, I think the younger generation does not know that it is important to learn some of these things. But I try to pass on things.....sometimes. ....13
That's because all these people, teachers, government, are trying to push kids into the STEM field. There's nothing wrong with the STEM field. But there's also nothing wrong with manual labor. And letting kid choose their own future.
Hello mike. Hope this mage finds you well. I’m building something like this footer but It’s open for sitting and walking. I’m using bluestone as the ends and pavers in the middle. When and how I make the slope so rains runs out , ? Do you have a video that shows that? Thanks
Thanks baggd, I would say that’s most of it, no two jobs are the same, and we have to change with the situation, you’re right, I appreciate the comment, thanks Mike
Hello Mike.I have a foundation wall where the bottom plate is at ground level.I am going to add another course to this.I noticed the foundation is out of square by 2 inches.Can I cheat the block over a half inch on one side and at the end of the run will be cheated a half inch on the opposite side atop the old block?The voids will also be filled with concrete and rebar.
Hi mark , I haven’t seen a footer that was 100% square yet, I had to move the block to make it fit hundreds of times, adjust, adjust, adjust, as long as it works in the end , thanks, Mike
Great series! I am getting ready to put a basement under my 1865 house. I was going to do a 16" footer and 10 coarses of block. I plan on using rebr 4' on center and filling all the voids. Also using the horizontal wire support. I live on cape cod so lots of sand and plenty of freeze thaw cycles. Any tips are appreciated. Thanks again, i love your content.
Hi Tiger, what I can say about that, is they had no problem with water before otherwise he would’ve had to do the drain thing I’ll go to the bottom of the street but the excavator knew what he was doing, that’s old stone walls, deep in there for 100 and some years so I’m not worried about a c,old joint, Thanks, Mike
Hello Mike, I've watched all your videos and learned much from your craft. Would you use blocks to build a stucco fence privacy wall the same way you built this footing wall? Or would you do anything different since the privacy wall will never have load of a building on it, and just needs to stand on its own.
Hi stratmister, anymore you got to go through permits and inspections, especially between property with neighbors, they are popular in Florida and California around here not too much because of weather and frost, I hope it helps, thanks Mike
Sir i have a question. My house is built on piers I have crawl space about 4' feet high. Currently the crawl space is closed off with metal sheets which doesnt look good and also over time the bottom of the metal rasted. What is best option using concrete blocks or bricks for crawl space walls. The wall would not hold any of house load. Please advise. Much appreciated.
I love these videos, so thankful for you sharing your knowledge. I have two questions. One is you mentioned filling it solid, is that the entire wall or just the top row and where the rebar is? The other is why you plastered all the way to the footer. Is that to enhance strength or help water shed away from the blocks?
Hi David, I filled the blocks that had the rebar in solid to the folder, but what really holds that wall from caving in is the weight of the building, if there was no weight, That wall it would cave-in fast, From the frost, my opinion ,,,,the plaster was to help make waterproof, and smooth it out, many times they will use a foundation coating after that or plastic, or whatever everybody’s got different ideas and there’s different ways to do it but I just did the basic masonry,, Thanks Mike
Mike, I remember. 2) you mentioned that no one will ever be in the crawl space. I’m guessing you mean routinely. From time to time I find myself under the house making wiring or plumbing modifications. Did your addition have access to the space? I don’t recall seeing access, unless it’s via trapdoor from the top.
I really appreciate your videos Mike. Feels like a retiring master passing down all his practical knowledge to an apprentice. You do an excellent job of explaining and showing the important things simply. You seem so helpful that I'd like to ask you for some advice on an unorthodox DIY idea. My old house is on big cemented rock pillars with just dirt and rotted wood skirting in between each pillar. The basement is dug out and only about 4-5’ high inside. In many places you can see the outdoors from inside. This part of the house seems to be quite solid and level, and has probably been so for over a hundred years, so I’m not worried about support. But I need to solve the massive air and water leakage. Is it total lunacy to pour a small footer (8” high x 8” wide x 8 deep) 4 feet down between each pillar, and then frame in a 2x4 pressure treated wall on that and covering that with cement board on the exterior (and insulating the interior)? I was also thinking I’d put in an underground sloping membrane around the perimeter like this www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/GBA_Rotator_Image/Spotlight-drainage-ROTATOR.jpg. It’s like a compromise between a skirt and a foundation. Any insight and opinions on this would really be appreciated. I’m willing to be totally accountable for the things I do that aren’t per new building codes.
P.S. A large reason the existing skirting was rotted was because the prior owner also had a garden retaining wall around the perimeter, holding in all the water against the house, the ground sloping towards the house, and with no gutters. Cost is a huge factor but I also don't want to do something that will just have to be torn down and replaced in 10 years.
Hi Ron, I really can not tell you what to do. once I made a treated wood frame , I took 2 inch styrofoam insulation and went around the base of a trailer, then added the stucco wire mesh and then made a coat of stucco,, it worked fine for that, but the trailer is long gone and a new house is there, So I can not tell you how long something like that would last, IF you are going to live in it and make it your home, and would take my time and figure out something long term, better a little at a time and do it right than cheap and have to do it over down the road, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Hey Mike, Cool thanks a lot for sharing your most similar experience. Your input is helpful and I think I'm going to go ahead with concrete blocks on footers. Since each section between the rock pillars is separate, I can actually do it as you suggest and do a little at a time. Thanks again.
'...massive air and water leakage...' in our part of the world, Eastern USA, if we have a basement water issue it's thought best to try and divert as much of the water away from the house as possible. regardless of what you do or did to the home reducing the volume and frequency of the water flow will improve the basement area. if it was my home, i'd stay away from any treated wood beneath grade. have you considered large stone with mortared or cemented joints? Mike has quite a few videos showing homes he works on with old stone foundations Ron. they seem to hold up best.
Hi Mike; I really enjoyed this series. I have two questions 1) you mentioned not to use block for retaining walls - I’m kinda using block in a manner that mimics a retaining wall; I’ve built a below-grade reflecting pool (1’x3’x6’)at the edge of my patio. Was that a mistake, in your opinion? It’s incomplete, I can make changes. Also 2) aw, fiddle sticks; I forgot.
Hi Daniel, that doesn’t sound like a big deal from where I’m at but I wouldn’t use blocks for retaining wall to hold back dirt or ground, so I don’t know what to tell you there, Sounds like you’re just building a fishpond, I appreciate it thanks Mike
Mike Haduck Masonry, that’s exactly what it is. About a foot wide, and three foot deep. Ok, I’m gonna fill the cells and plaster both sides. I had considered rebar, but after seeing your example, especially in a wet environment, I decided no. Also, I have a copper pipe in place, for a pumped water feature. But I’ve wrapped it with a rubber/butyl tape which the Gas Company out here requires on customer installed piping. Sounds like I’m on the right path?
Hi Luis, every 20 years they change the name of everything, garbage men are now called sanitation engineers, caps are now solids, blocks are now cmu, As long as it works, thanks mike
It's a shame they don't build for posterity nowadays. The concrete industry must have been lobbying like crazy. Of course nobody wants ugly buildings to last for hundreds of years but it's a waste of resources to build with "new school" materials. Plus they aren't cheap. Rebar is expensive. This was an interesting 3-part Mike.
Hi Chris, are used stainless steel pins And connectors that haven’t used any rebar and I haven’t really seen anybody really use it so it’s hard for me to say thanks Mike
Hi Brandon, I have a playlist on retaining walls and a video called, "Retaining walls" yes or no? Mike haduck , I give all my opinions there, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck you should check it out it is impervious to corrosion and is lighter and stronger than steel. The use it a lot in salt water applications.
Well maybe eliminated the inspectors, is not such a bad thing, it is hard/impossible to work around their schedule, you know that, thanks for posting Mike, nice work! I appreciate it
@@MikeHaduck Thanks for your valuable information.I am thinking of building a crawl space basement and going with 4 or 5 rows of 12 inch blocks at the bottom and finishing off with two rows at the top with 8 inch block set flush with the inside, that would leave me a shoulder of 4'' i would then add 2'' of Styrofoam over the 12'' blocks for insulation witch would then leave a 6'' shoulder.. My idea is to add 6'' stones over the 8'' blocks to make it look like a historical building. The grade would be at the bottom of the stone. do you see any problem with that? Would i mortar the stones directly onto the blocks?
Dear Mike, thank you for your wisdom. You made my families lives healthier by teaching all of us.
Thanks for the kind words, Mike
I graduated from a three year vocational school for masonry in 82. I spent 10 years in the trade first starting with a small contractor with a crew of four. I was lucky enough to that one of the masons was an old timer and he took a liking to me over the other crew and mentored me for the year before I moved on. I learned as much from him in one year as I did in the three in vocational school. It takes many years to be be very good and proficient at this trade and after ten years I was at that point. Only picked up my trowel a couple of times since then but once I got started it was like I never left. It is a skill and art that once mastered you don't loose. I like watching your videos and reminiscing. You remind me of the old timer that mentored me, patient and explained everything. I guess its always in your heart.
Thanks Mike, I appreciate hearing that from a professional, Mike
I really like it when you talk afterwards about the job.
Thanks Daniel, Thanks, I started doing that, because I knew there would be a lot of unanswered questions and it kind of fills the space in,Thanks Mike
You are a jewel in the ruff as my dad would say. Freely teaching what you know is the highest of callings. Lead on.
Thanks Tim, I appreciate the kind words, thanks Mike
Hey Mike I just watched all three videos and my back is aching!!! 30 years ago I could have done that but pushing 60 now NO WAY!!!
Hi John, yep, I came to realize I cant pick them up anymore,, mike
Mike: another great video. All the other comments sum up what I would say. I always say old school is the right school.
Hi Steve, in a lot of cases, that’s very true, thanks Mike
high quality block at a time and the 16 penny nail built this country. well done
Thanks Brian, that’s a good way to say it, I appreciate it, mike
Thanks for the old school insight! Always appreciated.
Thanks, I always appreciate it too, Mike
We have solid cap blocks here in Maryland...always enjoy your Perspectives Mike!!!! THANKS FOR YOUR TIME!!!!
Thanks bee, I always appreciate It, mike
Great video, thanks for always passing on your gift
Thanks Frank I appreciate it, Mike
I enjoy attending the M.H.S.O.C.S. I even tell people my 3 hardest years in school was 2nd grade.lol. It so nice to have a nice easy going journeyman to help show us some things. Thanks Mike.
Thanks cruising, that’s correct, and they had over 18 years of education, before I Quit in the six grade, LOL thanks, Mike
Always great to watch Mikes projects
thanks, mike
Thanks again Mike FHA we just called it slush in um in keep up the great videos ! The old timers knew everything your right.
Thanks col, I always appreciate it, Mike
Good one. Thank you Mr. Haduck.
Thanks Javier, I appreciate it Mike
Mike, I enjoy your videos and your commentary at the end. I am an inspector in California and out here , structural block walls have #5 and sometimes #6 horizontal and vertical fully grouted due to our earthquakes. Our walls have to defy gravity! Amazing how our State has us construct these walls to hold together up and down AND sideways!
Hi David, it’s a different world out there for sure, around here it,s the frost and freezing that does the damage, and the rebar rots away , expands and bust up the concrete eventually unless you can keep it dry, thanks Mike
Awesome video Mike keep them coming!
Thanks Nathan, I appreciate it, Mike
Top notch Mike.
Thanks Trowelhand, I appreciate it, mike
Makin it look easy and fun!
Thanks Jesse, mike
Always great educational videos. Keep up the great old school work!
Thanks Steve, I appreciate it Mike
Thanks for the videos. This video series filled in a lot of blanks for me and given me the confidence to tackle an add-on to one of my ancient rental properties in an area where it is very hard to find help.
Thanks Brian, I appreciate it, mike
Another good series Mike🤠👍
thanks again, mike
Mike thank you against n for the detail explication. You have help many of us beginners. Thank you again.
I appreciate it JAMAEL, Thanks, mike
nice to see the finished product. looks great!
Thanks Sue I appreciate it, Mike
I have learned so much from you and applied the knowledge to my landscape construction business.
Thank you
Thanks Tim, I appreciate hearing that from a pro, thanks, Mike
We have an upcoming project that we intend to do ourselves. Your videos are invaluable! Thanks so much and keep 'em coming!
Thanks Cat, I appreciate it, Mike
Very good job mike .
Thanks Bric , I always appreciated, Mike
Hi Mike. This video is a great education on masonary construction . It is a trade where you have to be creative and work smart with many different methods. Thank You for sharing with the public . It is very entertaining channel to watch!
Thanks,Ray, I appreciate it Mike
Nice job Mike, keep up the good work.
Hi mike my name is Zack Lamprey I have the same trowel that you use in the video I agree with you. Ps great work keep on laying
Thanks Zach, I appreciate it more, Mike
Thanks Josh, I appreciate it Mike
I was a carpenter for a number of years I sure would have liked to follow you on some jobs. We had to work around some real flub ups by block layers. 1973 seems like yesterday, I was young and tuff. I learned to work from men from the depression Era and will veterans. That's when integraty ment something. Spell check doesn' t even know what the word is.
I love the sponge man! Here in NW Ohio we always just use a brush! I tried it and I liked it! THANKS
Thanks Gabe, I appreciate hearing that, thank you, Mike
Thanks Mike.....I love your videos....keep it up
Thanks Mike, I appreciate it, Mike
Really enjoyed the video and like when you explain at the end.
Thanks Jim, mike
thank you for sharing your expertise with us.
Hi, Huskyresqr, thanks, I appreciate it, mike
Another great job Mike!
Thank you Scott, Mike
love watching you work, keep up the good work. All the best from the UK
Hi Elbert, I appreciate it thanks Mike,
Wow what a great job
Hi 55098, thanks, Mike
Love your videos and teaching methods.
Thanks Mark , I appreciate it, Mike
Great video 👍 thanks for sharing your talent. 👌
Thank rob, Mike
Job done right, love your work Mike, all the best from Lincolnshire UK
Thanks Andy, I love the work in the UK, thanks Mike
Thanks for the no BS style Mike! Good info
Thanks Jeff, mike
Thanks for the video as always Mike. You are right. The times, they are a changin’. Kinda sounds like a bluegrass song.
Hi R A, Old Bob Dylan song i’ll have to rewrite or Bluegrass Lol Thanks Mike
Quality information very knowledgeable indeed must watched few hours worth of your videos today as off work with the lockdown we’re currently experiencing with this virus. Mike take care mate and stay heathy. 😎😎
Thanks, Mike
Thanks Mike
Thanks Myron, I appreciate it, Mike
love you man keep on keeping on
Thanks Bill, I appreciate it Mike
You're probably tired of hearing this stuff, but I love your channel
Thank Daniel, I appreciate it, because I think Lake most TH-camrs, We always wonder if we’re doing right,I appreciate it, Mike
Thank you my key good job
Thanks, Mike
Awesome info
Tha is Wayne, mike
Great work
Thanks again, Mike
Wonderful video! I am doing a similar addition just smaller but not sure how to connect the cinder block to the house wall. I believe code requires holes drilled in the old foundation and a connection with re-bar needs to be made. I cant find any video on you tube that shows how to do a re-bar connection between old concrete walls and cinder block, do you happen to have a video on this detail? Thank you for all the knowledge you give to our communities.
Hi babe,, if it's old stone with mortar I drill between the stones and place some rebar in, whatever the inspector requires, thanks Mike
Thanks for the education.
Thanks Mark, Mike
Nice video again Mike. If I am building my own house , and I have complete choice over what materials to use, should I use block or brick? What are the advantages and disadvantages to both? Also, what about pouring the walls?
Thanks
I really can’t say, there’s so many options, in every area of the country is different, but i would I ask the old-timers, and get some feedback from them, that would help thanks Mike
Thank You.
Thanks again, mike
Great vid asusual ty mike
Thanks hrxy, I appreciate it, Mike
Legend mike
Thanks Fretwide, Just a regular guy making videos but I appreciate it thanks Mike
good job mike
very nice
Juan, mike
Thanks Mike!
Thank You, Brikkwall, I appreciate it, Mike
Just fantastic insights. But why didnt you put up forms and just do poured concrete for the foundation walls?
Hi Paul, we were not set up for it, but that block job taught me I am too old for jobs like that, lol thanks mike
Hi mike Question?What kind of stone would you use for a retainer wall ?
Hi vamdemar, I got a playlist out called retaining walls mike haduck, but watch my video "retaining walls (yes or no) mike haduck first, thanks mike
I was a tender for many years I no what you what you mean I'm from Boston and worked with a lot of old school Italians and learned a lot still use what they showed me
Hi Dennis, I was lucky to work with some too, I agree, some of the best Masons in the world, thanks Mike
brother is an underground driller around one mile under ground , today they struck red granite, took them 10 hours to drill 10ft, when you mentioned God made rocks you reminded me of your pyramid videos and granite tools.
Thanks, yep a long time, Mike
How many kg of portland did this wall take?
When you fill the blocks, do you not like stomp in/on them, so that it all gets compressed properly?
The wall looks beautiful.
Hi whiz , I personally leave rod holes empty till the end, then I know I poured it one solid piece, but you can tell when the cement is getting down there, sometimes guys will take a hose and wet the hole first To make sure it flows properly but again every job is different you can’t do it if you’re going over 7 courses, you have to piece it in, I hope that makes sense, thanks Mike
Hi Mike,
You really know your craft and you get it. Not everyone does. The people who care about what they do and why they do it are the ones who see the big picture. A few years ago one of the DOT agencies came out with a report the concrete bridges are failing because the rebar is rusting and expanding causing the concrete to crack... They should have just asked you. 🙂
In your link to your masonry hammer, it is for a milled face hammer. Is there much of a difference between a smooth face vs a milled face brick hammer? In your opinion...
Thanks,
Steven
Hi Stephan, Yep. I know about the rebar for sure, Never heard that about brick hammers, Thanks, mike
Thanks for passing along your knowledge. In the old days before Vocational Schools this is how information was passed on, man to man on the job site. That’s how I learned 95% of what I know. Additionally, with concrete block how many courses do you go between your support iron. The bricklayer who I worked with taught me that on most strait runs it’s every 5 courses for brick, especially in walls exceeding 70 feet. I know everyone has their own methods but what do you suggest when laying concrete block. Keep on training the next generation!
Hi George, I cannot say what you should use because that’s up to the inspector, and all depends on the job, But it’s true that nobody is learning from the old timers, one reason is they made it so hard to hire people that nobody’s passing it on, thanks for the comment I appreciate it Mike
@@MikeHaduck, thanks Mike, great videos.
great video. i love the old school because it is solid. i have a question about wall tie, when do use it ? is it every 4 blocks?
Hi Vinh, it use to be every second block vertical and every block or 16 inches, I don't think it is code to use them in masonry now,? Mike
Fiberglass composite rebar is the way to go. It will not corrode. More expensive than steel but if you are building something to last, it is worth the extra expense.
Hi John, I use fibers in concrete & some stucco, but the concrete companies only guarantee no cracks for 24 hours, but I agree regular rebar is garbage in the long run, I hope the fiberglass proves itself, thanks Mike
I've seen a lot of people use rebar to tie in old wall to new wall, but you didn't use any of that. I'm really curious about that! I've got an addition coming up and I'm connecting to my rubble stone foundation with block. I want to make sure it doesn't shift later. What would you do in a situation like that?
Hi, every situation is different, I found that most inspectors will tell you to put it in, even if you don't need it, so it would be up to him, thanks mike
I really enjoyed watching your videos.
Why are your footings so wide?
Hi findscl. Thanks around these parts it is suppose to be double the thickness of the block. So if the block is 12 inches the footer should be 24, thanks mike
Mike, the completed job looks very nice.
Like you, I think the younger generation does not know that it is important to learn some of these things. But I try to pass on things.....sometimes.
....13
Thank U 13, you’re right we got to keep passing it on, Mike
That's because all these people, teachers, government, are trying to push kids into the STEM field.
There's nothing wrong with the STEM field. But there's also nothing wrong with manual labor. And letting kid choose their own future.
What is the STEM field?
science, technology, engineering, and math
Hello mike. Hope this mage finds you well. I’m building something like this footer but It’s open for sitting and walking. I’m using bluestone as the ends and pavers in the middle. When and how I make the slope so rains runs out , ? Do you have a video that shows that? Thanks
Hi Sophia, Building a stone porch, mike haduck, It should help, Thanks mike
I feel you have to have common sense to be a mason. Great video Mike.
Thanks baggd, I would say that’s most of it, no two jobs are the same, and we have to change with the situation, you’re right, I appreciate the comment, thanks Mike
Hi Mike - what kind of mortar are you using here? premixed or.....? thanks...a lot
Hi mike for this we used the pre mix s mortar, thanks mike
Hello Mike.I have a foundation wall where the bottom plate is at ground level.I am going to add another course to this.I noticed the foundation is out of square by 2 inches.Can I cheat the block over a half inch on one side and at the end of the run will be cheated a half inch on the opposite side atop the old block?The voids will also be filled with concrete and rebar.
Hi mark , I haven’t seen a footer that was 100% square yet, I had to move the block to make it fit hundreds of times, adjust, adjust, adjust, as long as it works in the end , thanks, Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks for the response Mike and thanks for sharing your skill.Subscribed
Great series! I am getting ready to put a basement under my 1865 house. I was going to do a 16" footer and 10 coarses of block. I plan on using rebr 4' on center and filling all the voids. Also using the horizontal wire support. I live on cape cod so lots of sand and plenty of freeze thaw cycles. Any tips are appreciated. Thanks again, i love your content.
hi sim. I would talk with your local inspector for the general info for your area, I appreciate it. mike
@@MikeHaduck i will. Thanks again for the great videos
Since you didn't pour a slab, doesn't that provide drainage, in case water seeps in between the wall and footing (cold joint)?
Hi Tiger, what I can say about that, is they had no problem with water before otherwise he would’ve had to do the drain thing I’ll go to the bottom of the street but the excavator knew what he was doing, that’s old stone walls, deep in there for 100 and some years so I’m not worried about a c,old joint, Thanks, Mike
Hello Mike, I've watched all your videos and learned much from your craft. Would you use blocks to build a stucco fence privacy wall the same way you built this footing wall? Or would you do anything different since the privacy wall will never have load of a building on it, and just needs to stand on its own.
Hi stratmister, anymore you got to go through permits and inspections, especially between property with neighbors, they are popular in Florida and California around here not too much because of weather and frost, I hope it helps, thanks Mike
Sir i have a question. My house is built on piers I have crawl space about 4' feet high. Currently the crawl space is closed off with metal sheets which doesnt look good and also over time the bottom of the metal rasted. What is best option using concrete blocks or bricks for crawl space walls. The wall would not hold any of house load. Please advise. Much appreciated.
Hi Hamid, it's impossible to say unless I was there to see it, I would ask some of the locals , say thanks Mike
I love these videos, so thankful for you sharing your knowledge. I have two questions. One is you mentioned filling it solid, is that the entire wall or just the top row and where the rebar is? The other is why you plastered all the way to the footer. Is that to enhance strength or help water shed away from the blocks?
Hi David, I filled the blocks that had the rebar in solid to the folder, but what really holds that wall from caving in is the weight of the building, if there was no weight, That wall it would cave-in fast, From the frost, my opinion ,,,,the plaster was to help make waterproof, and smooth it out, many times they will use a foundation coating after that or plastic, or whatever everybody’s got different ideas and there’s different ways to do it but I just did the basic masonry,, Thanks Mike
Hi Mike, I really enjoy your videos. I am new to youtube how do I ask questions if you take them?
Hi Thomas, I can't give advice over phone or internet, I just show how I do it in different situations, thanks Mike
Mike, I remember. 2) you mentioned that no one will ever be in the crawl space. I’m guessing you mean routinely. From time to time I find myself under the house making wiring or plumbing modifications. Did your addition have access to the space? I don’t recall seeing access, unless it’s via trapdoor from the top.
Hi Daniel, you’re right, they’re putting a trap door from the inside they just didn’t do it while I was there, thanks Mike
Great work Mike! I’m looking forward to learning how to use a transit soon. What does one look for in a transit?
Hi Joe, everting is going lazer, I have the same one 40 years, thanks, Mike
I really appreciate your videos Mike. Feels like a retiring master passing down all his practical knowledge to an apprentice. You do an excellent job of explaining and showing the important things simply. You seem so helpful that I'd like to ask you for some advice on an unorthodox DIY idea. My old house is on big cemented rock pillars with just dirt and rotted wood skirting in between each pillar. The basement is dug out and only about 4-5’ high inside. In many places you can see the outdoors from inside. This part of the house seems to be quite solid and level, and has probably been so for over a hundred years, so I’m not worried about support. But I need to solve the massive air and water leakage. Is it total lunacy to pour a small footer (8” high x 8” wide x 8 deep) 4 feet down between each pillar, and then frame in a 2x4 pressure treated wall on that and covering that with cement board on the exterior (and insulating the interior)? I was also thinking I’d put in an underground sloping membrane around the perimeter like this www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/GBA_Rotator_Image/Spotlight-drainage-ROTATOR.jpg. It’s like a compromise between a skirt and a foundation. Any insight and opinions on this would really be appreciated. I’m willing to be totally accountable for the things I do that aren’t per new building codes.
P.S. A large reason the existing skirting was rotted was because the prior owner also had a garden retaining wall around the perimeter, holding in all the water against the house, the ground sloping towards the house, and with no gutters. Cost is a huge factor but I also don't want to do something that will just have to be torn down and replaced in 10 years.
I've also considered using cement block, which is what brought me here.
Hi Ron, I really can not tell you what to do. once I made a treated wood frame , I took 2 inch styrofoam insulation and went around the base of a trailer, then added the stucco wire mesh and then made a coat of stucco,, it worked fine for that, but the trailer is long gone and a new house is there, So I can not tell you how long something like that would last, IF you are going to live in it and make it your home, and would take my time and figure out something long term, better a little at a time and do it right than cheap and have to do it over down the road, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Hey Mike, Cool thanks a lot for sharing your most similar experience. Your input is helpful and I think I'm going to go ahead with concrete blocks on footers. Since each section between the rock pillars is separate, I can actually do it as you suggest and do a little at a time. Thanks again.
'...massive air and water leakage...'
in our part of the world, Eastern USA, if we have a basement water issue it's thought best to try and divert as much of the water away from the house as possible.
regardless of what you do or did to the home reducing the volume and frequency of the water flow will improve the basement area.
if it was my home, i'd stay away from any treated wood beneath grade.
have you considered large stone with mortared or cemented joints?
Mike has quite a few videos showing homes he works on with old stone foundations Ron.
they seem to hold up best.
Hi Mike; I really enjoyed this series. I have two questions 1) you mentioned not to use block for retaining walls - I’m kinda using block in a manner that mimics a retaining wall; I’ve built a below-grade reflecting pool (1’x3’x6’)at the edge of my patio. Was that a mistake, in your opinion? It’s incomplete, I can make changes. Also 2) aw, fiddle sticks; I forgot.
Hi Daniel, that doesn’t sound like a big deal from where I’m at but I wouldn’t use blocks for retaining wall to hold back dirt or ground, so I don’t know what to tell you there, Sounds like you’re just building a fishpond, I appreciate it thanks Mike
Mike Haduck Masonry, that’s exactly what it is. About a foot wide, and three foot deep. Ok, I’m gonna fill the cells and plaster both sides. I had considered rebar, but after seeing your example, especially in a wet environment, I decided no. Also, I have a copper pipe in place, for a pumped water feature. But I’ve wrapped it with a rubber/butyl tape which the Gas Company out here requires on customer installed piping. Sounds like I’m on the right path?
So it better to fill the block with cement as well to make it stronger 💪
Hi, you could, every 4 feet with rods are fine, most of the strength comes from the weight laying on it, Mike
I just purchased and installed solid block. I heard it referred to as a cap.
Hi Luis, every 20 years they change the name of everything, garbage men are now called sanitation engineers, caps are now solids, blocks are now cmu, As long as it works, thanks mike
It's a shame they don't build for posterity nowadays. The concrete industry must have been lobbying like crazy. Of course nobody wants ugly buildings to last for hundreds of years but it's a waste of resources to build with "new school" materials. Plus they aren't cheap. Rebar is expensive.
This was an interesting 3-part Mike.
Have you ever used stainless steel rebar? I heard that it costs a bit more, but lasts 10 times longer than regular steel.
Hi Chris, are used stainless steel pins And connectors that haven’t used any rebar and I haven’t really seen anybody really use it so it’s hard for me to say thanks Mike
i would like to learn more. do you offer training or school?
Hi Vinh, no , just making videos for fun, but thanks for asking , mike
I can't tell in the video but we're the block meets the wood portion of the home what do you do there
Hi, usually lay down seal, seal , then plate goes on top, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck sorry meant the existing house or did the new block butt up to old foundation
what would yyoh make retaining wall out of
Hi Brandon, I have a playlist on retaining walls and a video called, "Retaining walls" yes or no? Mike haduck , I give all my opinions there, thanks Mike
What do you think about basalt reinforcing products?
Hi, Rehoboth, I haven’t used them yet, maybe it’s the next big thing, thanks, mike
@@MikeHaduck you should check it out it is impervious to corrosion and is lighter and stronger than steel. The use it a lot in salt water applications.
@@rehoboth_farm thanks, I seen it at world of concrete, mike
No rebar ties between new and existing?
Hi Steve, your not clear, new and existing What? Thanks Mike
whats the benefit of doing a block wall instead of straight concrete with forms?
Hi Brad, I would say it all depends on how much time and money you want to put in it, Thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck which way is cheaper? seems like blocks would be longer but cheaper or am I wrong?? im used to seeing stem walls with forms
Hi Brad, anymore you got to deal with code officials and inspectors, so go talk with them first and see what they require, I hope it helps, mike
Don't you ventilate crawlspaces in PA?
Hi Fred ,yes , opening into existing cellar, thanks mike
I had a lot of old meta fence poles the green ones I laid them in my footers haha 2 per footer it will take 100years to rot down them puppies
Thanks Ryan, mike
We call umm in Tennessee F.H.A freaking heavy ass block we still use umm here unless we're poring the wall
Thanks Mikel , I know I don’t want to be picking them up no more lol, mike
Mike Haduck Masonry yeah there heavy but I guess there good for what they are intended for
Well maybe eliminated the inspectors, is not such a bad thing, it is hard/impossible to work around their schedule, you know that, thanks for posting Mike, nice work! I appreciate it
Thanks Len, Mike
Brush joints
???
Would a block with no cement inside have a higher R value than a full one?
Hi Anita, it might but masonry buildings usually get insulated from the inside or outside any more, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks for your valuable information.I am thinking of building a crawl space basement and going with 4 or 5 rows of 12 inch blocks at the bottom and finishing off with two rows at the top with 8 inch block set flush with the inside, that would leave me a shoulder of 4'' i would then add 2'' of Styrofoam over the 12'' blocks for insulation witch would then leave a 6'' shoulder.. My idea is to add 6'' stones over the 8'' blocks to make it look like a historical building. The grade would be at the bottom of the stone. do you see any problem with that? Would i mortar the stones directly onto the blocks?
Hi, with all the codes and inspections it's hard for me to comment, I would check with the locals first, I hope it helps, mike
@@MikeHaduck Thank again