A lot of the scale fluctuation you're getting comes from the rod not locating itself in precisely the same spot on the screw and at the scale contact point. Each time it's shifted, you have more or less length of the rod's mass on the scale resulting in weight variations. If you put a ball bearing on the screw and hang the end on the scale from a swing with a bearing at the rod contact point, gravity will allow the rod to settle into the same position with near zero friction and you'll get much more consistent readings. Good luck with your build!
Thank you for your videos my dude! Please keep then coming. I have a 1.8t A4 I'm building into a drift car and am going to be using lots of your content to help me through my engine build. Again thank you - Darius -USA
Be watching the rest of the video on my break mate. Cant wait to see it all come together. Here is to 100k+ subs coz this kind of thing and the way you do stuff is really good. Loving it ;-
Good idea mate! Wish I thought of that now...😂. It's done now though, and the accuracy in the end was ok. Just trial and error. If I did it again of course...
Holy shit i need that hoodie! Take my money! My Mk2 1.8t bent a rod a year ago Tuesday and i've got my forged motor in and running! Still on a K04 frame, But billet wheel. Hoping to catch you at some track days this coming year!
Haha class mate seems weve all been there! teespring.com/en-GB/shop/cheese-rods?tsmac=recently_viewed&tsmic=recently_viewed&pid=377 Be good to meet up for sure... if were allowed.
Your really going to town on this build, how essential for a road car would shaving 10th of grams off be, i'm not sure i will do it for my stroker build but i can see the point for your track day beastie 👍
Not essential at all mate. I've ran forged engines for years without balancing the rotating assemblies. This is just another way to fine tune, and get the smoothest most efficient setup. At high rpm flex in the block and components is a killer, so anything I can do to dampen out imbalance and flex is a winner.
@@DecimalTenths Yesh thats fine mate. Tbh i forgot all about it until you said last time. Not looking to get famous, just a big fan who appreciates the videos and replies :) 😂👍.
Hey mam thanks for the great video series i have a question though sorry for being few years late im only starting my build now. With the crank which rods did you use for the 1.8t or 2.0tfsi, and also the size of the wrist pin isit 21mm? Then one more thing the main end bearings and Conrod bearing isit for a 1.8t or 2.0tfsi
Great vids! I'm buying an A4 Audi with a 1.8. The sellers daughter got a rod knock, so he picked up another engine. So which engine code is best! Thanks from Illinois.
Hi pal, these days it's best to just get the best condition one you can. Also best to match the engine type. There are 2 types 058 early and 06A later.
Good one Nick, I order the IE rods with the rifle driling for my 1.8 t daly it is 200hp on wheels (quattro) and it is in boxes right now waiting for rods and bearings. May I ask you do you take material only from one side of the big end of the rod or bot sides. And mate I will use your videos as a totorial to build my engine :) . Thak you for the content.
Hi! Rifle drilling is a good option. They did drop it on the TFSI/TSI engones though so is probably a good guide as to how effective it really is. I take material from both sides mate, nice and even 👍
"Smidgeist of smidges" Fucking brilliant! just dropped by your channel ( the escort van brought me here) im in teeside so good to hear a localish twang! keep it up.....
@@DecimalTenths Sweet, I've hit the Subs button, been sat all afternoon watching your content.. I'm a ford man but the content on here and the way you put it out is gripping..
@@DecimalTenths I'm over in SA. I've being using this here setup for a while already for N/A applications. My go to setup is VW golf Mk1 HV 1800 block with a 2.0lt ADY/2e crank and VW microbus Kombi 83mm pistons... They make for a very torquey setup
The scale was only £10 so not really surprisingly crap...😂. The measurements were more stable with less of the measuring surface covered so it could probably be tightened up by resting the big end on a socket. With them all measured and mixed around I can close the differences up very nicely to less than 0.1g so in the end it all worked out. Just took an afternoon of clarting around to get there...🙃
It would certainly help with that mate. The aim is reliability with this one more than anything else. Years ago Mountune used to debur and balance all of the rotating mass of the YB Cosworth Group N engines. No further performance enhancing modifications were allowed. This provides longevity and reliability considering they were used at high RPM for all of their lives. My attempt here is to mirror some of them procedures and hopefully make a reliable, vibration free circuit engine. Stay tuned to see if I manage it...🤣. In all honesty the effort cant hurt can it?
A lot of the scale fluctuation you're getting comes from the rod not locating itself in precisely the same spot on the screw and at the scale contact point. Each time it's shifted, you have more or less length of the rod's mass on the scale resulting in weight variations. If you put a ball bearing on the screw and hang the end on the scale from a swing with a bearing at the rod contact point, gravity will allow the rod to settle into the same position with near zero friction and you'll get much more consistent readings. Good luck with your build!
Haha yeah I knew of the issues when doing this. We do it properly now with a jig, and bearings as you mentioned.
You Sir are a legend.
Try to be anyways...🤣
Love the way you are always on the point and thinking on your feet. Keep it up Nick 👍🏻
Cheers Rich. Just go in the garage and what happens happens...🤣
Thank you for your videos my dude! Please keep then coming. I have a 1.8t A4 I'm building into a drift car and am going to be using lots of your content to help me through my engine build. Again thank you - Darius -USA
We will Darius! Thanks for the support and hope they help! Nick
Yeahh 1.8t content. Keep this specific engine vids coming. Building a AEB.
They're coming mate. Cheers
*Decimal Tenths* Respect for this video quality content bro - Dave Liverpool 🤞🏼👊🏼
Thanks Dave! Hope you've subbed pal , Nick
Definitely not a crap youtuber mate top man and a great vid, keep it up please and cheers!!! Andrew
Just a joke more than anything else mate... explains a lot of the fuck ups though...😂
Be watching the rest of the video on my break mate. Cant wait to see it all come together.
Here is to 100k+ subs coz this kind of thing and the way you do stuff is really good.
Loving it
;-
Good video, you could of used one of your gudgeon pins screwed onto that piece of wood to give repeatable results
Good idea mate! Wish I thought of that now...😂. It's done now though, and the accuracy in the end was ok. Just trial and error. If I did it again of course...
Good to see some up cycling going on!!! Interesting to see.
Holy shit i need that hoodie! Take my money!
My Mk2 1.8t bent a rod a year ago Tuesday and i've got my forged motor in and running!
Still on a K04 frame, But billet wheel. Hoping to catch you at some track days this coming year!
Haha class mate seems weve all been there!
teespring.com/en-GB/shop/cheese-rods?tsmac=recently_viewed&tsmic=recently_viewed&pid=377
Be good to meet up for sure... if were allowed.
Your really going to town on this build, how essential for a road car would shaving 10th of grams off be, i'm not sure i will do it for my stroker build but i can see the point for your track day beastie 👍
Not essential at all mate. I've ran forged engines for years without balancing the rotating assemblies. This is just another way to fine tune, and get the smoothest most efficient setup. At high rpm flex in the block and components is a killer, so anything I can do to dampen out imbalance and flex is a winner.
And its part of the fun.. fiddle'n with those parts
Decimal Tenths are you fitting a fluidampr?
My greeting from iraq
Mint video mate 👍.
Cheers mate. Your mush might just be showing up in one of the next few videos...🤣
@@DecimalTenths Yesh thats fine mate. Tbh i forgot all about it until you said last time. Not looking to get famous, just a big fan who appreciates the videos and replies :) 😂👍.
Hey mam thanks for the great video series i have a question though sorry for being few years late im only starting my build now. With the crank which rods did you use for the 1.8t or 2.0tfsi, and also the size of the wrist pin isit 21mm? Then one more thing the main end bearings and Conrod bearing isit for a 1.8t or 2.0tfsi
It is an 1.8t build, so all tolerances are to 1.8t spec, not TFSI.
The rods are 20mm 1.8t rods 👍👍
@@DecimalTenths thank you very much for the info man
Great vids! I'm buying an A4 Audi with a 1.8. The sellers daughter got a rod knock, so he picked up another engine. So which engine code is best!
Thanks from Illinois.
Hi pal, these days it's best to just get the best condition one you can. Also best to match the engine type. There are 2 types 058 early and 06A later.
Good one Nick, I order the IE rods with the rifle driling for my 1.8 t daly it is 200hp on wheels (quattro) and it is in boxes right now waiting for rods and bearings. May I ask you do you take material only from one side of the big end of the rod or bot sides. And mate I will use your videos as a totorial to build my engine :) . Thak you for the content.
Hi! Rifle drilling is a good option. They did drop it on the TFSI/TSI engones though so is probably a good guide as to how effective it really is. I take material from both sides mate, nice and even 👍
"Smidgeist of smidges" Fucking brilliant! just dropped by your channel ( the escort van brought me here) im in teeside so good to hear a localish twang! keep it up.....
😂 thanks mate appreciate it. Hold tight... were doing more on the van soon, plus some more ford shizzle.
@@DecimalTenths Sweet, I've hit the Subs button, been sat all afternoon watching your content.. I'm a ford man but the content on here and the way you put it out is gripping..
Thanks mate! Give us a cheeky share... you know you wana..😂😂🤘
Good vid nick.... as always👍
Thanks mate 👍
🤣 when they compressor came on.. 🤣🤣
Gets me every time...😂😂😲
@@DecimalTenths I'm over in SA.
I've being using this here setup for a while already for N/A applications. My go to setup is VW golf Mk1 HV 1800 block with a 2.0lt ADY/2e crank and VW microbus Kombi 83mm pistons... They make for a very torquey setup
What pistons you used? 🤔
JE 83mm, 9.5:1 stroker pistons
How much £ was that scale? Hearing from those fluctuations it could be the scale... or?
The scale was only £10 so not really surprisingly crap...😂. The measurements were more stable with less of the measuring surface covered so it could probably be tightened up by resting the big end on a socket. With them all measured and mixed around I can close the differences up very nicely to less than 0.1g so in the end it all worked out. Just took an afternoon of clarting around to get there...🙃
Yeah mate no problem. What ive seen is they rest the big end on a stanley knife blade on the scale.. Love the build. Keep it up
Good video dude, send me a link to your jig on eBay when you go into production 👍
Just sorting the patent out as we speak...🤣
Mark from Northeast you no more than me fella like the videos u can put rods in mine fella 🤣
🤣. 1.8T rods is my speciality...🤘
Nick is this so you can raise the RPM?
It would certainly help with that mate. The aim is reliability with this one more than anything else. Years ago Mountune used to debur and balance all of the rotating mass of the YB Cosworth Group N engines. No further performance enhancing modifications were allowed. This provides longevity and reliability considering they were used at high RPM for all of their lives. My attempt here is to mirror some of them procedures and hopefully make a reliable, vibration free circuit engine. Stay tuned to see if I manage it...🤣. In all honesty the effort cant hurt can it?