Remaking 70-Year-Old Door Panels
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
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That was a long walk to get to a 3-way joke, but it was absolutely worth it! Well done Sir.
I died. Hardest I've laughed in months.
That one and the holes in his dry sump both were hilarious
I actually never new about the 4-3-2 way designation for holes. That may be useful in engineering. A simple hole is a four way slot… who knew?
The larger the ratio of setup to payoff, the funnier it is. :D
Asking one's S.O. about a threesome may be a way to ensure that one has a lot of time to work on projects in the garage...
What I love the most about this channel is how matt shows his mistakes without making a big deal of them, like they should, only little footnotes of learning
Anyways, all hail the algorithm
And 3 ways
All hail the algorithm
Yes, learning. We learn more from out mistakes than from our successes.
+1 obligatory *_All Hail the Algorithm!_*
Algorithm is love, algorithm is life. Algorithm is the way.
Industry insider tips: If your adhesive starts turning loose, and you feel confident with being able to line it up the first time, Dap Weld Wood will hold to the point of destroying your vinyl and foam before coming apart. As far as the imperfections you're seeing, let the car sit in the sun on a very warm day with all the windows rolled up. The heat will let the vinyl relax and conform better. The down side is that this might make the imperfections even worse :) As far as your sewing work, that's a pretty passable job, from what I could see. Making your seat covers won't be hard. It looks like most of the original cover is there, and that's your pattern. If you can use that same sewing machine, you won't have much trouble. Walking presser feet are a wonderful thing. The tough part is installation. You'll have to remove all that straw and cotton (I assume that's what it's stuffed with, they usually are) and then sculpt some foam to fit. Put a nylon cloth barrier between the foam and your seat springs, or the springs will eat right through the foam. Consider getting some upholsterey pliers to pull the seat cover down on the frame of the seat. It has to be VERY tight or it will wrinkle, and you can't get it that tight with your fingers. Also, cover your seat foam with plastic before pulling your cover over it. The backing on the vinyl likes to grip foam, and the plastic will make it slide better. Just plain trash bags work great for that.
Since you are here ... Is the modern seat foam you install better than most OEM foam? Just curious (I assume it's nicer, feels better, and stays resilient longer)
@@troy3456789 Well, like anything, foam comes in multiple grades, and you mostly get what you pay for. I've been at the mercy of some fairly thrifty customers, and had to work with some pretty bad foam from time to time. But yes, modern foam is of a better grade, and is most certainly an improvement over the straw and cotton padding that you'll find in very old seats. As mentioned above, though, the foam will need to be sculpted and shaped to make the seat look right.
@@Guildrum Thank you, and yeah I could see some customers doing that.
I have zero experience in upholstery but that all sounds like very good experience-advice.
@@troy3456789 I can tell you it's 1000% better than the horse-hair in my old Bimmer's seats.
It's wild to watch how an engineer approaches upholstery.
I've been doing upholstery for 13 years and the shear overkill you went through was so interesting to see. I must say I'm impressed. It's just a totally different approach than I ever would've considered.
In the same way you would overbuild a bridge.
"Anyone can build a strong bridge. It takes an engineer to build a bridge that barely stands."
*ADVICE FROM A TAILOR* "grade your seams" to stop that line - You dont have the 2 edges of the piping and the 1 of the fabric ending at the same point...!
After you finish the sewing you cut the top piece of fabric back a lot, the 2nd band a little and the 3rs not at all [unless its really long] so you get a slowly stepped edge
You can also try to use "pinking shears" these cut a zig zag edge, this can give a smoother transition on some fabrics - but can also telegraph through on others
Ahhh, after years, I now know what this one pair of Fiskars are. Pinking Shears. tHanks
@@Dancing_Alone_wRentals - Yeah - thats what they are. They are for cutting fabrics that tend to fray - you dont need to seam the edge
do they call the fastest tailor tailor swift
All 100% correct but if you DO have them all end together, you can butt up a nice piece of material to match that new height, and hide it all. So as long as you're ok with that, its an easy solution. One of my favorite kinds of solutions. This trick is often used in "3d" fabric covered parts, like modern car interiors. On some parts I have made, I route an edge to go over this thick area, and then attach it over it. Kind of like how the wood door top works here, as a separate piece, but not as obvious that its a separate piece as its also covered.
@@RoamingAdhocrat ....hmmm, now I have something to ponder over. tHanks
Procrastinating one task to do another task which seems more fun is basically the ADHD playbook. Like how watching this video vs. doing my actual work. It’s not really a deficit of attention deficit…but a deficit of attention for uninteresting tasks.
how the heck is Your comment an hour older than the video
@@KonradSpringer 👻👻👻
Patrons get videos early.
Jaron Lanier (the guy who coined VR) called this cross-procrastination. It’s been a staple of my productivity ever since.
when I worked from home, my home was never cleaner
That avoiding tasks with another task philosophy seems worth emulating.
I don't know, there might be another task philosophy that starts off easier than this one...
I love the 1940s tech of using flat door cards and carved wood, trying to recreate swoopy 90s interiors would probably be a nightmare
If you use contact adhesive on both sides, use a rubber hammer to fix the edge around the back of the panels then you don't need pins(staples for upholstery) . Warm the separate parts after, allowing the glue to completely dry, gently before adhering to each other using a hot air gun*
* In a ventilated space.
Another tip, use mineral oil (baby oil) to remove any excess glue on carpets/trim. Those wood parts like absolutely fine, just repair and refinish them with oil based varnish then 0000 wire wool and beeswax. You can use oxalic acid to bleach any stained or water damaged wood after removing the old finish.
My dad upholsters old gramophones and whenever the leather has airpockets underneath or isn't glued down properly he uses a syringe with glue to fix it. The doors are looking sweet Matt :)
Huh, I would never have thought of that. Seems obvious in hindsight.
I hear the gramophone reupholstery business is pretty cut-throat these days
@@Milkmans_Son haha for sure :') no the old man just likes to do it as a hobby
The only downside about learning upholstery is that by the end of the project you have learned so much... only to forget about it again, because you don't do it daily. And when the next project finally surfaces, you are practically back to square one. It's such a rewarding skill to learn. Such a pity there are such rare chances to make use of it.
Sounds like its a win-win, a rewarding skill to learn that you get to relearn every time you use it ;)
...at least Matt can re-watch this his video and get mostly up to where he left the subject.
I had the same problem with my skill at sex.
taking notes about important stuff might help, later on with a quick read you'll remember it more easilly
@@PabloDeLafuria , or make a video.
I make very expensive handbags for a living and double sided tape is literally life. We use a ton of it and some bags are so complicated that you could not assemble a bag without it.
Also, the best way to avoid lumps showing through your panels is to skive down the unused tail of the seam. It's a technique used a lot in leatherwork to deal with your exact issue. You can buy skiving knives online. Something to remember is that if you have a longer tail of extra material it will be easier to create a very shallow angle on your skive cut for a smooth transition.
The second thing to do is cut wedges out of the unused material on a seam that will have a curve in it. This prevents wrinkles behind and on the front of the material and makes it much easier to bend into a curve.
I've edited this for times because I keep thinking of new things to add.
A hair dryer is quite handy for skinning things with vinyl fabric. You warm up the vinyl-- experiment on scraps first to see how hot it can be, without damage or distortion or other unwanted effects. But hot-ish fabric stretches easier, moves and folds, etc. Then it shrinks a wee bit when cool.
Nice, though. Looking good.
3:05 - a long road travelled to come up with "Ask your spouse how they feel about a three-way". Time well spent.😁 Kudos for doing the sewing yourself -- and a great result. I completely understand your trepidation on starting the rear seat. I could imagine that job being procrastinated into oblivion if it were my project...
Algorithm tickled
Great piece, Matt - every episode teaches me something... 👍
The vinyl that let go due to insufficient amount of glue can be re-glued from behind - drill through the door card and spray adhesive in, and then press (you need to fill the drill holes)
I like what you did with the doors and The Doors. Classic.
I'm old enough (just) to remember winding down the windows in cars. Or, to be honest, winding them up since it was cold and raining in England. We used to call these parts the "window winders".
I'm old enough to wish we could still get manual window cranks on some cars! OK, not so much for my daily but on my Rovers the less there is to go wrong the better (plus less weight which is always a good thing)
@@donhappel9566 my dad had a rover 800 vitess sport. Always loved that car. Cherish the flaws
Merely a hobbyists but I have upholstered quite a few cars without the pressure of overhead or keeping the lights on after doing a job or two. I love the closed cell foam, but as you learned, it does show everything under it. I very lightly sand my door card edges so they egress openings easily and have slightly more finished look. Then, anywhere a seam lands, I tend to sand in a relief for said seam to fall into. If my tails behind a seam are a 3/4 inch width, make a channel for them to land in and spray glue into the channel. It also helps when stretching and pulling the material out to the corners to wrap around as the seams stay anchored in within your work. Angling the stapler can decrease the over height of the staples while still maintaining a solid purchase. Glue will also reduce the need for many staples if any.
Great job and love your videos!
I love the smell of vinyl spray-adhesived with spray adhesive, almost as much as that thingy you lathed on your lathe.
THE STRONGEST SHAPE! Real Civil Engineer Matt would love that "3 way" thing 🤣🤣🤣
I once hiked the Grand Canyon with an Army quartermaster who sewed his own stuff sacks. When I asked if he used a sewing machine, he told me "no, I have a thread injector". I thought that was a much better name.
Thanks for this. My 51 Chevy needed work. This was my next step.
just unpick the seam and cut the actual piping chord out flush with the edge, then tack it back down.
Regarding the bump from the piping, the trick is to cut all the salvage off of the sewing, then make a cut in the foam itself, glue the piping in the slot. Alternatively you can glue the piping to the board first, then apply the foam on either side (top piece and bottom piece) and then upholster, it still leaves a bump but the light won't show it.
To me upholstery has always been one of those black magic voodo things. In reality is probably a lot more straight forward than it seems, but still intimidates me just thinking about it.
A tip to have the vinyl more flush and without any imperfections showing through, is to NOT glue it to the foam on the door cards.
Get a maximum of tension in them in one direction, glue the edges on the other side with contact glue, and tack them with staples, then get tension in the vinyl in the other direction and progress outwards.
That's how it was done back in the day as well, the vinyl was never glued to the foam itself.
There's a whole lot of practical sewing for tools-oriented people. Sewing polyester webbing for custom harnesses and straps is super useful. I've sewn straps for tying things down to my trailer and onto motorcycles. It's a good skill to have even if you're not into clothing or upholstery.
*Everybody* should know how to operate a sewing machine at a basic level at least. I'm a hobbyist tailor and I've met so many people who say they're intimidated by threading a machine. Um, RTFM? Look at the little arrows on the casing?
@@balzacq I went through _extensive_ training and got my sewing machine license in third grade. :) It might still be in a box in the attic somewhere. I might have to dig it out and stick it in my wallet, just in case I get pulled over. :)
Great video as always! Regarding the wood door toppers -- you'll be surprised at how bad old wood can look and still be restored to something that looks new and beautiful. I'd try restoring one before you commit to building new parts.
pretty good job Matt, To allow the piping to fold over the edge of the door you remove the core in the piping just before it goes over the edge of the board this allows the vinyl to flatten out, it's best to do this when you're sewing the pieces together.
Honestly, that's a pretty nice way to do projects. Going off to do the ones that interest you and coming back as you regain interest is a pretty nice philosophy.
Out of highschool, my uncle recruited me to do electrical work with him. His demonstration about a three way switch was very alike your imagery for the slots!
Super77 is actually made for use on areas in shear, 90 is made for items in tension, only reason I know is due to cnc cutting foam, where bonding the foam to the table is best suited for 77. Fantastic video as always
Advice: Have the seat done by a shop. Seats are a pain. Like 50X the pain of the cards. Looking good and thanks for the video.
Interior is where I think most vehicles 70s-90s will meet their end. My old '97 S10 truck for instance, nobody makes new dashes for them because they're huge complicated pieces and it's not one of the few models with enough of a following to drive demand.
Actually a good strategy. Always pick the lowest hanging fruit. Means you keep being motivated (or at least as much as possible) and the during the time you will work on the high hanging fruits you can already enjoy the low having fruits you picked earlier.
Upholstery is an art on its own. Well done
Highly recommend picking up a box or two of various plastic clips off Amazon or whatever. It's hugely convenient to just have them around whenever you inevitably break them. And Autozone charges you more for like 3 clips than it costs for a box of 500.
With seats and cards, it's looking damn sharp... Good motivation to just finish it, make it your new DD.
So glad this series/project is back!
I really love your style of dry humour, fantastic as always!
Only Matt could make a dick shape sound a viable engineering solution and a joke within the same 30 seconds.
I love your sense of humor. I really do.
I should subscribe, I've been watching you for a year now
This is one of the best channels out there. Informative, serious, but not serious at the same time!!!!!!!! Thank you for what you do!!! and All Hail the Algorithm!
Many of the old cars used wax covered paper as a water barrier, often held on by cloth tape. After a few years of rain/snow, the paper would fall off and accelerate the rust at the bottom of the doors.
Those door panels look fantastic, great job! I just bought a um... car from brand that you made a video about a few months ago... and I'm nervous about doing anything to a nice car. Your videos help me get over that and just jump into it. With no plans, and little research. But I have safety glasses. Somewhere.
Great to see you grow. You've put out quality since day 1. I remember finding you ~20k subs and knowing it was just a matter of time 😊
Well done sir
Using leather was a custom taken over from the days of the horse drawn carriage. Back then there was no vinyl. So if you wanted something more durable then cloth the only option was to use leather. As cloth became cheaper leather upholstery became a luxury extra.
Wow, you have explained my procrastination far better than I could!
I helped a guy that owned an upholstery shop for at least a year. He taught me everything about it. This video puts me right back at that work bench. I once suggested diamonds to a customer that was talking to the owner. The owner said "DONT SAY DIAMONDS" when the guy left and it was kind of an ongoing joke.. until I had to draw them accurately on a surface that wasn't even solid... What a nightmare hahahaha
I appreciate the intro, reminds me of a saying: A lever only works if it's against something
You are truly inspiring all the underachievers out here, Cheers!
2:57 That is some undercover trolling if I have ever seen it.
Best part of the video.
@@gizzyguzzi his was pretty long yeah, mine is a shorter
2:50 - You bastard. You got me.
I love the humble "good enough" mentality with this build. The quest for perfection is what prevents so many cool cars from ever being completed. Build a nice car that was never meant to be perfect, and you'll get way more enjoyment out of it than a squillion dollar show car.
You can now get a under $1k scanner from the same company. It’s called Shining3D Einstar. It doesn’t have lasers but it’s still good. For metal parts you can use scanning spray for example EASUB. I sell these so I have used both, the Einscan that was on your video and the cheaper Einstar.
I ordered the Shining3D a few days ago. Excited to try it out when it arrives.
@@SuperfastMatt Please do a full review! If you could try to scan a whole car and maybe see how accurate it is, that'd be awesome. If it works well, I'm totally getting it
That's what I love about the Miata, when the door panels need to be replaced in the future, you usually just leave everything out. A plate of aluminum, fake carbon or a bit of leather and you're done.
I love this channel. Thanks Matt. All hail.
That intro was too real, haha! procrastination productivity is a legit strategy
that 3 way movement hole just pushed you from one of my favorite youtubers to #1
My tendency is to despair about small not-quite-perfect mistakes like they're going to torture me for the rest of my life. Lately I'm realizing that's stupid, because I'm always delighted to buy B-stock cosmetic defect stuff at a discount. Matt's attitude of "maybe I'll redo it later" is perfect because you get a trial time to see if it really bothers you. If I just defer the initial freaking out, I find it usually doesn't bother me later.
on my project car, I had the option to transfer the power window motors and controls over from a donor car, but thought with the manual window cranks along with the 4-speed stick shift and clutch - I'll never have to worry about my kids 'borrowing' it, cause they would never be able to figure out how to use it ..... years ago I still had a 'manual' rotary dial telephone, and a friend's kid was over and wanted to make a phone call; but couldn't figure out how that old phone worked, they just kept poking their finger in the dial holes(without spinning it) and nothing would happen
I use a pva mix on the back of cardboard door cards as a way to protect them from moisture.
In the 20 odd years I've been doing this.
It seems to work for me.
You need to use what are called upholstery cups to screw down your panels. Whenever you use anything with adhesive use a surface adhesion promoter as it makes stick on stuff forever.
Wow the irony. After storing Mini parts for decades......just before watching this video I walked a, damaged over time, Karobes Made in England seat cover for a Mini....into the trash. I have loads of small Mini parts that I just won't scrap. (Five minutes later.....After a second look, the Karobes is back out of the trash). Fun video!
You have a real knack for making dull jobs interesting...and funny. I often think that I'm going to click out initially, but then you make me smile or smirk, and throw in some interesting solutions for the problems that we all face with deceptively simple-looking jobs.
on a seam the best thing to do to reduce bulk is to cut one side of the seam to within 1/16 of an inch from the seam. then flatten the seam with a hammer and piece of wood. It is all about technique.
What you call Rookie Work is amazing. You are now Amazing Matt to me.
Sewing is pretty easy if you have time. If some kid in Indonesia can do it…shouldn’t be too hard for someone who builds cars to figure out. Not as complicated or fun as seeing with fire (welding)…but you can’t weld fabric.😊
I find welding and sewing to be pretty similar, both can be learned quickly with okayish results and both require tons of time to master.
Not with that attitude (or any other)
I like doing amateur upholstery work and repairs, because sitting on cloth/pleather/leather + foam is a tad more comfortable than doing the same sitting for hours on an unpadded steel chair.
That said, I would admire someone's handiwork welding up their custom steel chair!
.....you didn't mention the part about the kid having his grandmother working the machine right next to his. The advantages of a fine tuned factory.
"This seems to be a problem only on one side, which seems a little odd."
/me laughs in British Coachwork
You send so many problems to future Matt, nice to see you give that guy a break and send him a solution.
Hi Matt! Do you like sanding? A lot of sanding? I could not tell the state of the wood, but it might be possible to refinish it. Or you can start from scratch and anyway do a lot of sanding for a good finish. Or maybe start that fiberglass body? Then before sanding fiberglass, do the rear seats, then wood panels and then start a new project to not to sand the fiberglass?
So very surprised that you chose "Hardboard" as a Door Card replacement! You can never make Hardboard waterproof, unless you completely vinyl-dip. I went one better than Hardboard. I used the 3-ply Marine Plywood. 20 years later, these plywood Door Cards still appear as brand-new. I simply drew around the old 'Hardboard' warped & rotten Door Cards. I did not taker a Steam Hammer to crack a nut. Other than this, your attention to detail - and the thought given to any problem - you are a Wizard!! Love your Jag - but not the Wheels.Greetings from Australia.
Came out great my friend, you should be proud. God bless.
I found this interesting as I made my own door cards for my Austin 8 when I was 15, 57 years ago wow.
It nice to know I did it right. Even though I didn't have a computer to aid me. Scribe around and cut.
Also made them for my Austin 7s
Always great content. Thanks for taking us along for the build!
I always put on my high gumboots when watching Matt. the sarcasm is so deep. Love your videos. thanks for having such a good job
When I was redoing my 1940 Nash Door Panels....Ray's Upholstery told me to make them from Lauan door skins, easy to work with. All I need now is for you to make me a new headliner and reupholster my seats. I'll drop them off at your parents house where I picked up the S parts 🙂
2:30 future owner of car trying to figure out why the window jammed rolling down "Argh! someone left a bag of trim clips taped in here and they fell off and jammed the door winding mechanism! Oh well, I can use them to replace the clips I broke getting to them."
This is brilliant, My 83 year old car was missing a panel, the rest had been done by a previous owner, I am looking forward to sharing in the joy of interior work
Thanks Matt. That all looks really good and will improve the interior immensely. Yours is probably the most critical eye and no one else will notice the minor imperfections from the piping that you can see.
I'm absolutely with you on the 'not using leather'. I does feel weird having the interior of your vehicle covered in dead cow.
This video is especially of interest to me because I have to replace the door cards on a 1960s British car. The cardboard/ hardboard/fibre/plywood that they used originally has disintegrated and wasn't very durable or waterproof. It must have been the cheapest stuff they could find. I have been thinking about using some form of plastic sheet, maybe the type of stuff used for building ceilings or wall linings. The membrane between the door and the door card was a good call.
Don't we call the trim pieces at the top of the door 'door caps'?
When working on cars, you AWAYS make the passenger side first. That way you'll not be looking at the learning mistakes forever.
Looks great Matt. I bought an RV last year and some of the vinyl covers needed replaced. I got a sewing machine and went to a local shop and in a few hours I was sewing.
I mean I'm not ready for Project Runway but for the inside of an old RV it looks fine.
I started watching the video 1 hour ago (all hail to the algorithm) but i couldn't finish it yet. I'm still laughing since minute 3.12 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ah the plastic lining, I got to remake that on my mk 2 golf last year.
My tip for longevity: don't use double sided tape there, make the plastic slightly (we're talking 1-2cm) smaller and tape it with duct tape. This way the water/steam isn't in contact with the actual sealing part of the tape, just with the plastic foil
Thank you, I,m restoring a Rare 1970 MANIC G T it was made in Quebec the problem i am having was interior door panels , Thanks again you helped me . I just waiting for this Canadian winter to get over
Great job on the video Matt! Thanks for making it.
Matt, them door cards look damn spiffy, to quote Madz from Saillife, for a beginner, you got skills. 3 way went down well!!!
Very good for an upholstery noob! You could try using a heat gun and a damp microfiber towel to better "lay" the vynil. Use it on a couple of scrap pieces and you'll get a hang of it, properly used local heat application shrinks what's sagging and relaxes what's oevrstretched.
I know it's been a lot of work in between, but it is still astounding how much better new cars are than old ones.
Longtime viewer who really enjoys your videos. For a newbie to upholstery, you did a really good job. Thanks for sharing.
I used leather and 3mm PVC foam board for the cards on my Mkix. The leather is thicker than the original vinyl which meant undersizing the cards slightly, also creates headaches when folding the piping onto the back of the card. My cards were a bit warped so the only way to get accurate hole alignment was by using a plastic sheet template taken directly from the inside of the door (see The Lucky Needle). Also check out Cechaflo for the best way to fold leather/vinyl onto the back of card. Still, what you produced looks good and I'm in awe of the other work you've done.
It came out pretty good. I admire your ability to tackle projects that are so ambitious
I just got through watching an episode of SuperfastMatt-future edition; he said that the B puller covers were quite adequate, and he praised Past Matt for his forethought and economy of labour.
2:57 😂 came for the door cards. Subcibed for the humor. Very informative and funny too!
I recently did something similar - all new door cards for my Delica and I dunno if it was the vinyl I chose but I had lots of problems with curved and round edges. The material looked great on straight edges but roudned parts came out ugly. You did really well!
Yes, in England we call them door cards. I have worked in the bodywork trade for over 20yrs, never heard them called anything else.
edit: I liked that little segment near the beginning.
I goddamn love how self-aware all your commentary is
From the title I thought this was going to be a boring one, but in typical Matt fashion you managed to make it funny and interesting. All hail the algorithm!
very educational. I have a 1950 Riley RMA that has the identical interior issues... especially the curvature of the bottom of the front door cards was badly rotted out and the form will need to be retraced with 3/16th " in all around to leave space for the furflex. I will be using Rexine (plastinated cotton) in identical color to the leather for those areas where you used vinyl. Thanks for the heads-up and good luck with your project. By the way I also decided to delete the belted map pockets on the backs of my front seats...just too hoky looking for my taste!
Nice work. Sewing is much easier then most people think.
Always glad to see the Jag that brung me! Lookin' good in the neighborhood, SFM!
Good job on the upholstery. I fear it. Once you read a little and dive in, it usually comes out acceptable. Love the three way concept. I'll run it by the DW. Cheers.
Well done Matt. Great work completing the door cards. You did it like a pro. I’m impressed