That is an awesome fix! The fact that they merged 3 relays into one control board and you were able to figure out a bypass fix to keep the rest of the system working is proof of your efforts. Nice job, Ivan!!
That was incredibly clever. You prove once again that ingenuity and thinking outside the box is "par for the course" for you. You never cease to amaze.
Ivan,, Even though it was quite an extensive wiring schematics and diagnosis, in the end it was a relatively easy fix that went as you planned. I'm very impressed. Thanks for taking us on your journey
Great job. Love that you just didn't swap parts. It's amazing how when you know how something actually works, you can fix it easily. Something very lost in today's mechanic world.
Who else is going to do a repair like this? I am not aware of anyone. They might be out there but obscure for sure. Maybe Super Mario? You are a unicorn in the automotive repair world. I can't even imagine someone like Eric O. even thinking about doing something like this. And, I respect Eric's expertise but this stuff is on another level.
Yes! A real repair! I expected that thing to be a useless block of epoxy. No way you'd be able to repair something like that on a modern vehicle without 6 hours with a dremel.
Good one Ivan. Met a 15-year old kid yesterday who wanted to learn how to work on cars. I sent him a link to your channel. I respect your approach and patience in following a diagnostic approach no matter how much it "melts your brain."
Pro Tip when using desolder tools: First use a solder iron and a just bit of flux or new solder to reflow the connection. Then apply the solder tool and then suck the solder out.
They also make low temp solder. I think it's Bismuth. You can add that to the existing joint. When you're ready, you heat all the joints and the solder will stay liquid long enough for you to pull the part out. However, I would have tried wick first here to remove the bulk.
That braided solder wick is better. The vacuum is really only for certain size joints where the pin can go into the hole-- such as desoldering a resistor wire, and would help you cut time if you had to do hundreds of them. It's really kind of a gimmick otherwise IMO. Solder wick is the way to go, especially on these larger lugs with weird shapes.
Nice circuit analysis! I would have had to redraw that schematic. Typically a control winding breaks near the solder joint, sometimes repairable with fine tools. I enjoy how you get to the root cause and make bench restorations with available components. One minor caution: the replacement relay's control winding impedance should be considered to insure the drive transistor is not overloaded, or you could take that fancy thermal camera to check the transistor's temp. when operating (if it's under 50C body temp. it's probably safe).
Great fix Ivan. It retains the factory circuitry & look! It seems the only "high tech" if you can call it that in the relay assembly is the transistor. I was not expecting miniature surface mount components, though I was expecting something more interesting than the guts of standard relays! I am glad you took it apart. I have not seen wire fuses like the ones in that Porsche in a very, very long time!
I've fixed a few of these Porsche light modules over the years. The relay inside is easily available from a number of modules/relays that I source from the scrappers (junk yard 😜). I've had them from vehicles upto maybe 2010 - GM stuff etc. Good fix though 👍
To supplement Ivan's excellent lesson here, I want to add some important details. Even if you are using flux core solder, add a little dab of additional paste flux everywhere the soldering iron tip is going to touch. It serves several purposes, even when desoldering. It acts as a heat transfer fluid so the heat stored in the iron can dump quickly to the joint without heat soaking and overheating the surrounding area. It allows extra fluid to float the impurities out of the way and breaks the surface tension of the solder so it lays down and wets the joint quickly and cleanly. All these serve to allow you to get in and out more quickly and avoid cooking the surrounding circuit, the component itself, or lifting a circuit trace.
@@smcicI always went that far for my clients too. Being conscientious about your work is easy when you LOVE what you do, especially for others. When you love your job, it's not a job. It's another day to learn, explore and have a great time doing it. I just retired after 45 years of working on Residential and Small Business systems, and I cared at least as much about their systems as if they were my own. I downplay nothing. I applaud techs who give a crap, as much as this man does.
great job, I had an acura with large relay, with internal circuit board- cracked solder joints.heat and vibration gets to these. Now you can get a few more tools for electronic repair, solder wick assortment, low melt solder, fire up the digikey cannon!
That Hakko is a game changer in my shop. Just did a UPS repair in half the usual time. It's a beast on solder. Another tip when vacuuming move your nozzle CC or CCW to help sucking around the wire. Sometimes after vacuuming as much as possible I have to wiggle the wire on the solder side to completely free it on smaller pads with through hole solder joints. Cheers.
Love it 👍. Never underestimate the difficulty removing through-hole components. I've fixed a LOT of damaged PCB's due to techs fighting PTH devices that didn't desolder easily. LOW MELT SOLDER is your friend in many situations. The solder sucker is good, but not perfect. And when using the sucker, hold the trigger for a second or two after solder disappears so the molten solder makes it all the way to the glass waste chamber. If you stop sucking early all the time, the barrel will clog quicker. If your kit doesn't have the wire to clear the barrel, buy the one to match your nozzle ASAP.
I had an intermittent nostart problem with 23 Vibe and finally took relay apart.I found a dust bunny or ball of laundry lint inside relay between the points.Whenever you tried to start the car when the lint was between the points it took 6 to 10 tries.The original owner must have dealt with that issue for a long time before giving up and putting the car on a car lot where I got it! You never know!!! CHEERS from here!
Excellent video on the diagnoses and repair! Quickly looked through the comments but didn't find anyone mentioning that I believe they used a Porsche 928 in the movie "Risky Business" with Tom Cruise in 1983. Oh man.... when that movie came out, that was the dream car of many of young lads in the world!
Good Job! I have spent decades repairing electrical and electronic equipment, little hint for bench soldering; I held the workpiece, pcb etc, in a pair of pliers which was held closed by a strong elastic band flat on the workbench. ✂
Hi Ivan, The Hako desolder gun is a good tool I have had one for quite some time. Keep the chamber clean and unclogged. Also you can buy larger tips. I have several sizes and you will need to clean it and the nozzle regularly. The Hako soldering iron is not so good. Your iron is probably much better. I eventually bought a Weller D60 which I have used for years. Your better one looks like a really good choice and I might get one. That relay could have been repaired. I have rewound a few things but I do have a rewinding machine and wire.
That was juicy, but these oem diagrams needs soft heart. An hour trying to read the diagram ,just a few pple got that patience. Thanks Ivan. Im learning a lot
Nice fix! One thing more I would have done would be to test/replace that blue component - an electrolytic capacitor - due to its age. Without a schematic of the relay module, it could be a noise filter on the power line or it might be part of a timing circuit. Either way, its a $2 part and equivalents are easily found and might save a callback. I doubt if it was the reason for the relay failure, but those components don't age well and the designers felt one was needed to support the module's function.
Great solution Ivan, only thing i was thinking is some Hot Glue to hold the relay in place..i learnt that trick from Sorin at Electronic Repair School, he loves the stuff and understandably so Lol.
Hi a tip for you for when you want to desolder a pin etc , add some new lead solder first it’ll make the job a lot easier 👍👍fantastic video as always 😀👍
I wouldn't agree that the replacement relay that you used is much better quality than the original one. I've replaced hundreds of them on Volvo's. But in this case, any relay that "works" is key. And any tech that looks over this car in the future will never know that relay module was ever touched. Awesome work Ivan!
I have a soldering work station that has 3x magnifing glass on a bendy stem & it has a mini vice on it which then clamps to my bench it is brilliant for those fiddly jobs.I also have a soldering iron variable heat to 600 deg c & a pump to suck up the solder a really great combination .As to your fix I hadn't thought of using a small relay my OCD makes me build a small version on a board .Cheers mate here in AUS it's approx 12.30 pm So I'm off to mow the lawn yeah.
im proud of those soldering skills ivan as a mainly electronics designer i think you should attempt more component level repairs u know a lot more than you think about electronics
A very extensive analysis there, using schematic diagrams. In the days when CRT televisions were abundant, I used a manual vacuum pump combined with an ordinary soldering iron to remove horizontal output tranformers (most with the EHT supply to the picture tube anode). My approach would be similar, with the knowledge that the resistance of a relay coil is (nominally) about 200 ohms, and would use the 'Rx1' or 'Rx10' scale on the 'ohms' range (of a multimeter) to test. What I like in your work is that you have diagnosed a fault to component level, replaced it with a 'generic' one, likely surpassing the reliability of the original...
This morning, I woke up excited from a dream in which Ivan came unannounced to help me fix our 1st gen Nissan Xterra (V6). 😂😂😂 I even got to tell him how me fixing a knock sensor code on this rig got rid of a perennial misfire under load, and cylinder 6 wasn't combusting properly. No joke! NGL, this dream put me in an upbeat mood!🙈 Probably triggered by wanting to see the conclusion to this brain fryer of a Porsche diag.😂😂 Thanks for making such an impression on me, Ivan!😂 Who else has had Ivan feature in their dreams?😂
Really love this channel. Creative and good solutions. But if you want the hakko to work better next time, i have two suggestions. First, give the heating element much more time to warm up when using it from a cold start. Give it ten minutes. Also to let the old solder flow better, add new solder first. This lowers the melting point, and your work will be so much more easy. Instead of adding new solder, a bit of flux also does the trick. Great repair Ivan.
Nice work Ivan, bottom line is the customer has working headlights, even is the price of the replacement relay is close to your fee for the headlight diagnosis and repair, it'd be boring just popping in a new relay! Thank You Sir.
Ivan, I see a small electrolytic capacitor (blue) near the relay you replaced. I would swap that out as well given the age of the car. I think a light spray of deoxit on the entire pc board would be a good protective measure as well to keep future corrosion down to a minimum. Great repair. Cheers!
That is so cool fix on the relay stuff!! Never thought about doing that!! Wow, nice one! Let's see what other stuff Your gonna do, lol. Unbelievable lol
The "LCM" in my 2003 Grand Marquis died on me at a bad time but after removing the cover on the relay that was soldered to the board and bending one of the contacts so it didn't have to move so far to engage the other one it's been fine ever since. Took it to Ford for the recall tho. I was surprised how well it turned out. Marine heat shrink on everything
Amazing, love your channel. I owned a 928, great car, I learned after electrical problems started that the 928 has 35 Miles of wiring!! I believe a Rolls Royce or Bentley may be the only cars to have more. My issue was fried wiring harness but I found a company that will built you a custom one based on the VIN # you supply to them, I ordered one, had my shop put it in and, all good.
When you said Porsche and Brain Melting in the same sentence I knew we were on the same page when it comes to auto repair. Of course I'm looking at the shop owners 2005 Lamborghini Mercialago and its list of concerns while I'm watching your video. Smh.
Ivan. Loved this diag. I especially loved the relay box repair. "Back in the day," (i.e. a hundred years ago :-) I worked with circuit boards just like this one, with discrete parts. However, I was amazed at the quality of this board, the parts, and the beautiful solder joints, due to the age of the equipment. Your diag was spot on, however, I would have headed first for that transistor to see if the Emitter, base, and collector circuits were intact. Just sayin'. :-) For sure that was a quality board. Again, "back in the day," I used a "suction bulb" and some "wicking material" to get rid of the solder. And, as one commenter said, I would have jumped all over that little electrolytic cap. The wiring diagram,, like all have said, also blew my mind. I don't think I would have been able to follow it like you did. Great job. You never fail to keep our interest - while we try to second-guess you. ha, ha.ha. Many thanks for allowing us to watch "the master" at work. God's speed to you, your wife and family.
Great job! I was surprised not to see any integrated circuits on that board. Saw a part that looked like a transistor. I wonder if it was a unijunction transistor...... I don't think Porsche would use a common type!
Dr Nopareq shows us how its done! I'm calling it NPR as relays and fuses are typically plug in maintenance items. The manual cigar shaped solder pumps are my go to. You can use any size solder gun and they're easy to clean.
WoW that's Awesome👍🏻 Really this was very difficult to repair, but you fixed it & the relay you used will definitely last till this car is on the road👍🏻 Great work BRO, Stay Safe😍
I just realised that all those niche channels are what people with the knack get suggested. Having sub 500k subs on said channels makes me feel special lmao
Even though I've never worked on one before, I pretty much expected you finding an open frame relay with an open circuit coil. For exactly the reasons you stated. I do have those in stock, they're commonly used in Mercedes relay modules. The most common being the "over voltage protection relay" which results in a crank no start (those with KE-Jetronic will actually run but be lacking all enrichment such as cold start and acceleration, which is initially confusing when you're used to electronic fuel injection), or an ABS fault due to missing ignition power to the module. Yes you can get aftermarket modules but the experience I've had with them means you're better off doing what you did if the original open frame relays aren't readily available
I worked at a power plant build in the 70s. All the electrical diagrams looked like that. But thats what they are, Line diagrams. Over time they figure out the avg. Electrician cant read that. Then you have wiring diagrams or termination diagrams for electricians to know point a and b of wires.
Nice fix! Just had to do a similsr repair to a 2005 Peugeot 307 engine bay fusebox after one of the built in relays for the injection failed. New boards are NLS from Peugeot, so it would have meant finding a good used unit.
That is an awesome fix! The fact that they merged 3 relays into one control board and you were able to figure out a bypass fix to keep the rest of the system working is proof of your efforts. Nice job, Ivan!!
he didnt bypass. he replaced the bad relay of type x with a good relay of type y
One of your greatest episodes, Ivan. Fantastic work.
That was incredibly clever. You prove once again that ingenuity and thinking outside the box is "par for the course" for you. You never cease to amaze.
Absolutely smart diagnoses abd repairs! The client is so lucky to have you as his/her mechanic. Well done, Ivan!
Ivan,, Even though it was quite an extensive wiring schematics and diagnosis, in the end it was a relatively easy fix that went as you planned. I'm very impressed. Thanks for taking us on your journey
More than vehicles to learn here. Determination, critical thinking, work ethic, results. You continue to inspire
Great job. Love that you just didn't swap parts. It's amazing how when you know how something actually works, you can fix it easily. Something very lost in today's mechanic world.
I get a kick out of making old components come back to life without replacing anything 😁
Who else is going to do a repair like this? I am not aware of anyone. They might be out there but obscure for sure. Maybe Super Mario?
You are a unicorn in the automotive repair world. I can't even imagine someone like Eric O. even thinking about doing something like this. And, I respect Eric's expertise but this stuff is on another level.
Crazy. You're a one in a million to be able to analyze and then make such a repair.
Yes! A real repair! I expected that thing to be a useless block of epoxy. No way you'd be able to repair something like that on a modern vehicle without 6 hours with a dremel.
Good one Ivan. Met a 15-year old kid yesterday who wanted to learn how to work on cars. I sent him a link to your channel. I respect your approach and patience in following a diagnostic approach no matter how much it "melts your brain."
Pro Tip when using desolder tools:
First use a solder iron and a just bit of flux or new solder to reflow the connection. Then apply the solder tool and then suck the solder out.
Definitely, a little new solder with the desolder tool also helps the heat transfer!
Or just some flux (from what I've seen on other channels) and/or some fine copper web/strap
solder wick would have been better for this particular task.
They also make low temp solder. I think it's Bismuth. You can add that to the existing joint. When you're ready, you heat all the joints and the solder will stay liquid long enough for you to pull the part out. However, I would have tried wick first here to remove the bulk.
That braided solder wick is better. The vacuum is really only for certain size joints where the pin can go into the hole-- such as desoldering a resistor wire, and would help you cut time if you had to do hundreds of them. It's really kind of a gimmick otherwise IMO. Solder wick is the way to go, especially on these larger lugs with weird shapes.
Brilliant diagnosis and repair, I doubt that any other shop could have or would have done this fix.
Very enjoyable 2 part video to watch, thanks.
Nice circuit analysis! I would have had to redraw that schematic. Typically a control winding breaks near the solder joint, sometimes repairable with fine tools. I enjoy how you get to the root cause and make bench restorations with available components.
One minor caution: the replacement relay's control winding impedance should be considered to insure the drive transistor is not overloaded, or you could take that fancy thermal camera to check the transistor's temp. when operating (if it's under 50C body temp. it's probably safe).
Great fix Ivan. It retains the factory circuitry & look! It seems the only "high tech" if you can call it that in the relay assembly is the transistor. I was not expecting miniature surface mount components, though I was expecting something more interesting than the guts of standard relays! I am glad you took it apart.
I have not seen wire fuses like the ones in that Porsche in a very, very long time!
I've fixed a few of these Porsche light modules over the years. The relay inside is easily available from a number of modules/relays that I source from the scrappers (junk yard 😜). I've had them from vehicles upto maybe 2010 - GM stuff etc.
Good fix though 👍
To supplement Ivan's excellent lesson here, I want to add some important details. Even if you are using flux core solder, add a little dab of additional paste flux everywhere the soldering iron tip is going to touch. It serves several purposes, even when desoldering. It acts as a heat transfer fluid so the heat stored in the iron can dump quickly to the joint without heat soaking and overheating the surrounding area. It allows extra fluid to float the impurities out of the way and breaks the surface tension of the solder so it lays down and wets the joint quickly and cleanly. All these serve to allow you to get in and out more quickly and avoid cooking the surrounding circuit, the component itself, or lifting a circuit trace.
That might just be your new #1 NPR fix. Well done Ivan!
Not NPR. He replaced/upgraded a relay.
@@ThisIS_Insaneno he fixed a broken relay. Big difference
@@smcic By a CHANGE, which introduced a NEW part which was REQUIRED to finish the job, but this is just circular semantics
That's just me.
@@ThisIS_Insane he went far beyond what a typical tech would do though, no reason to downplay what he did
@@smcicI always went that far for my clients too. Being conscientious about your work is easy when you LOVE what you do, especially for others. When you love your job, it's not a job. It's another day to learn, explore and have a great time doing it. I just retired after 45 years of working on Residential and Small Business systems, and I cared at least as much about their systems as if they were my own. I downplay nothing. I applaud techs who give a crap, as much as this man does.
great job, I had an acura with large relay, with internal circuit board- cracked solder joints.heat and vibration gets to these. Now you can get a few more tools for electronic repair, solder wick assortment, low melt solder, fire up the digikey cannon!
That Hakko is a game changer in my shop. Just did a UPS repair in half the usual time. It's a beast on solder. Another tip when vacuuming move your nozzle CC or CCW to help sucking around the wire. Sometimes after vacuuming as much as possible I have to wiggle the wire on the solder side to completely free it on smaller pads with through hole solder joints. Cheers.
Love it 👍. Never underestimate the difficulty removing through-hole components. I've fixed a LOT of damaged PCB's due to techs fighting PTH devices that didn't desolder easily. LOW MELT SOLDER is your friend in many situations. The solder sucker is good, but not perfect. And when using the sucker, hold the trigger for a second or two after solder disappears so the molten solder makes it all the way to the glass waste chamber. If you stop sucking early all the time, the barrel will clog quicker. If your kit doesn't have the wire to clear the barrel, buy the one to match your nozzle ASAP.
Nice move Ivan!! Great solution and no parts required 😃😃
You are a legend, sir! You are overkilling both the diagnose and the repair.
I had an intermittent nostart problem with 23 Vibe and finally took relay apart.I found a dust bunny or ball of laundry lint inside relay between the points.Whenever you tried to start the car when the lint was between the points it took 6 to 10 tries.The original owner must have dealt with that issue for a long time before giving up and putting the car on a car lot where I got it! You never know!!! CHEERS from here!
You go above and beyond to help the customer Ivan! Much Kudos to you!
Right on ! Surgery completed !! Tremendous tenacity !! Thanks mate . 👊🏼
Excellent video on the diagnoses and repair!
Quickly looked through the comments but didn't find anyone mentioning that I believe they used a Porsche 928 in the movie
"Risky Business" with Tom Cruise in 1983. Oh man.... when that movie came out, that was the dream car of many of young lads in the world!
I use that same Hakko resoldering gun pretty regularly. It's nice to have the different size tips and extra filters on hand.
Unheard of research in automotive repairs ! Old cars rule ! Nice thinking Ivan...you have talent.
Good Job! I have spent decades repairing electrical and electronic equipment, little hint for bench soldering; I held the workpiece, pcb etc, in a pair of pliers which was held closed by a strong elastic band flat on the workbench. ✂
Hi Ivan, The Hako desolder gun is a good tool I have had one for quite some time. Keep the chamber clean and unclogged. Also you can buy larger tips. I have several sizes and you will need to clean it and the nozzle regularly. The Hako soldering iron is not so good. Your iron is probably much better. I eventually bought a Weller D60 which I have used for years. Your better one looks like a really good choice and I might get one. That relay could have been repaired. I have rewound a few things but I do have a rewinding machine and wire.
Brilliant Ivan, nice work!
You said it, simply amazing. Great job, you went way further than I would have dared. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
I was living in Germany when that car came out, there was a lot of excitement amongst my friends, some had been on a waiting list for quite some time.
As usual Ivan your electrical problem solving and repairs on vehicles just amazes me. ✌🏻
So happy to see you break out the desolder gun!!!
That was juicy, but these oem diagrams needs soft heart. An hour trying to read the diagram ,just a few pple got that patience. Thanks Ivan. Im learning a lot
Great repair job coupled with your amazing patience in working your way through those unreal wiring diagrams!
Nice fix! One thing more I would have done would be to test/replace that blue component - an electrolytic capacitor - due to its age. Without a schematic of the relay module, it could be a noise filter on the power line or it might be part of a timing circuit. Either way, its a $2 part and equivalents are easily found and might save a callback. I doubt if it was the reason for the relay failure, but those components don't age well and the designers felt one was needed to support the module's function.
That was very clever Ivan, a joy to watch.
Ivan, you are nothing but a bloody genius. Great diag and fix. Grand Master rech.
Great solution Ivan, only thing i was thinking is some Hot Glue to hold the relay in place..i learnt that trick from Sorin at Electronic Repair School, he loves the stuff and understandably so Lol.
Hi a tip for you for when you want to desolder a pin etc , add some new lead solder first it’ll make the job a lot easier 👍👍fantastic video as always 😀👍
Your lucky that new relay was small enough to fit inside that cover. Very good fix Ivan!
Put some fresh solder on the dry joints and then add some flux. Makes it way easier.
Awesome repair. Logic and ingenuity wins again.
No, you are amazing Ivan!!! Great work!!!
Purely insane level of repair kudos
I wouldn't even classify this a "Russian Repair." BRAVO! Great video!
Hi , check the transistor , is PNP, repleace and done , good job ,
Another great informative video. Many mechanics would have not been able to do this in their lifetimes.
I wouldn't agree that the replacement relay that you used is much better quality than the original one. I've replaced hundreds of them on Volvo's. But in this case, any relay that "works" is key. And any tech that looks over this car in the future will never know that relay module was ever touched. Awesome work Ivan!
I knew you’d figure it out. Cool fix.
I have a soldering work station that has 3x magnifing glass on a bendy stem & it has a mini vice on it which then clamps to my bench it is brilliant for those fiddly jobs.I also have a soldering iron variable heat to 600 deg c & a pump to suck up the solder a really great combination .As to your fix I hadn't thought of using a small relay my OCD makes me build a small version on a board .Cheers mate here in AUS it's approx 12.30 pm So I'm off to mow the lawn yeah.
Cool and man you get somewhere around a million points for ingenuity
love to watch your vidios you are a true warrior never gives up thanks
im proud of those soldering skills ivan as a mainly electronics designer i think you should attempt more component level repairs u know a lot more than you think about electronics
Awesome job there Ivan you have the electrical mind needed for this era of vehicles and a good modifier at that great job
Good work-around to save this wagon's lights.
A very extensive analysis there, using schematic diagrams. In the days when CRT televisions were abundant, I used a manual vacuum pump combined with an ordinary soldering iron to remove horizontal output tranformers (most with the EHT supply to the picture tube anode). My approach would be similar, with the knowledge that the resistance of a relay coil is (nominally) about 200 ohms, and would use the 'Rx1' or 'Rx10' scale on the 'ohms' range (of a multimeter) to test. What I like in your work is that you have diagnosed a fault to component level, replaced it with a 'generic' one, likely surpassing the reliability of the original...
I would glue the relay to the board. I guess it depend how tight it fits with the cover on. Great video
Brilliant Ivan, Nice work!
Nice one Ivan.... Improvise, Adapt, Overcome !
As mentioned my eyes were glazing over with the diagrams, but the repair was magical.
This morning, I woke up excited from a dream in which Ivan came unannounced to help me fix our 1st gen Nissan Xterra (V6). 😂😂😂 I even got to tell him how me fixing a knock sensor code on this rig got rid of a perennial misfire under load, and cylinder 6 wasn't combusting properly. No joke!
NGL, this dream put me in an upbeat mood!🙈
Probably triggered by wanting to see the conclusion to this brain fryer of a Porsche diag.😂😂
Thanks for making such an impression on me, Ivan!😂
Who else has had Ivan feature in their dreams?😂
Thanks for the video Ivan.
Really love this channel. Creative and good solutions. But if you want the hakko to work better next time, i have two suggestions. First, give the heating element much more time to warm up when using it from a cold start. Give it ten minutes. Also to let the old solder flow better, add new solder first. This lowers the melting point, and your work will be so much more easy. Instead of adding new solder, a bit of flux also does the trick.
Great repair Ivan.
Nice work Ivan, bottom line is the customer has working headlights, even is the price of the replacement relay is close to your fee for the headlight diagnosis and repair, it'd be boring just popping in a new relay! Thank You Sir.
Great hack to repair and bit modernise old circuit board 👏 👌..cheers
Ivan, I see a small electrolytic capacitor (blue) near the relay you replaced. I would swap that out as well given the age of the car. I think a light spray of deoxit on the entire pc board would be a good protective measure as well to keep future corrosion down to a minimum. Great repair. Cheers!
that type/clear plastic wrap usually held up for ever, unless overheated or given major ripple or other bad noise/rapid cycling.
I predict that 1984 Porsches with headlight issues are going to start finding you the way Chrysler PT Cruisers keep finding Rainman Ray.
That is so cool fix on the relay stuff!! Never thought about doing that!! Wow, nice one! Let's see what other stuff Your gonna do, lol. Unbelievable lol
Hey Ivan, seem using desoldering wick for such applications will be way more efficient. Just an advise 😀 great job on fixing that relay!
Hi Ivan . Excellent work . Searching the semantics and nailed it my favourite type of work you perform . 💥💥💥💥💥⚒🔧🛠👍
Ivan, that was an awesome repair -- you are the man!
Awesome video Ivan! Very cool!
The "LCM" in my 2003 Grand Marquis died on me at a bad time but after removing the cover on the relay that was soldered to the board and bending one of the contacts so it didn't have to move so far to engage the other one it's been fine ever since. Took it to Ford for the recall tho. I was surprised how well it turned out. Marine heat shrink on everything
Astonishing solution 💪
Amazing, love your channel. I owned a 928, great car, I learned after electrical problems started that the 928 has 35 Miles of wiring!! I believe a Rolls Royce or Bentley may be the only cars to have more. My issue was fried wiring harness but I found a company that will built you a custom one based on the VIN # you supply to them, I ordered one, had my shop put it in and, all good.
I did the same this week on a Mercedes overvoltage relay. Good job!
Another great Victory, Ivan!
I am still in awe as to what Ivan just did.
I totally forgot about the VW fuses!!! Ceramic holders with metal strips end to end. Pretty neat.
When you said Porsche and Brain Melting in the same sentence I knew we were on the same page when it comes to auto repair.
Of course I'm looking at the shop owners 2005 Lamborghini Mercialago and its list of concerns while I'm watching your video. Smh.
Epic repair, Ivan!
Great job! I hope you were compensated for all of your time on that.
Ivan showing some next level skill there ! If this melted his brain then it fried mine.
😆
Ivan. Loved this diag. I especially loved the relay box repair. "Back in the day," (i.e. a hundred years ago :-) I worked with circuit boards just like this one, with discrete parts. However, I was amazed at the quality of this board, the parts, and the beautiful solder joints, due to the age of the equipment.
Your diag was spot on, however, I would have headed first for that transistor to see if the Emitter, base, and collector circuits were intact. Just sayin'. :-) For sure that was a quality board. Again, "back in the day," I used a "suction bulb" and some "wicking material" to get rid of the solder. And, as one commenter said, I would have jumped all over that little electrolytic cap.
The wiring diagram,, like all have said, also blew my mind. I don't think I would have been able to follow it like you did. Great job. You never fail to keep our interest - while we try to second-guess you. ha, ha.ha. Many thanks for allowing us to watch "the master" at work. God's speed to you, your wife and family.
Well said....Cheers from San Francisco
Loving it..very educational
Great job! I was surprised not to see any integrated circuits on that board. Saw a part that looked like a transistor. I wonder if it was a unijunction transistor...... I don't think Porsche would use a common type!
Dr Nopareq shows us how its done! I'm calling it NPR as relays and fuses are typically plug in maintenance items.
The manual cigar shaped solder pumps are my go to. You can use any size solder gun and they're easy to clean.
Good repair Ivan,impressed.
Nice repair
WoW that's Awesome👍🏻
Really this was very difficult to repair, but you fixed it & the relay you used will definitely last till this car is on the road👍🏻
Great work BRO, Stay Safe😍
i think alex should send you some low melt solder for giving his channel a plug it would have made getting that relay a lot easier to get off
I just realised that all those niche channels are what people with the knack get suggested. Having sub 500k subs on said channels makes me feel special lmao
@@bashdavid9223 just subscribed and doubled your subscriber list
Press down firm when desoldering to get an air tight seal. And wiggle a bit
Even though I've never worked on one before, I pretty much expected you finding an open frame relay with an open circuit coil.
For exactly the reasons you stated.
I do have those in stock, they're commonly used in Mercedes relay modules.
The most common being the "over voltage protection relay" which results in a crank no start (those with KE-Jetronic will actually run but be lacking all enrichment such as cold start and acceleration, which is initially confusing when you're used to electronic fuel injection), or an ABS fault due to missing ignition power to the module.
Yes you can get aftermarket modules but the experience I've had with them means you're better off doing what you did if the original open frame relays aren't readily available
I worked at a power plant build in the 70s. All the electrical diagrams looked like that. But thats what they are, Line diagrams. Over time they figure out the avg. Electrician cant read that. Then you have wiring diagrams or termination diagrams for electricians to know point a and b of wires.
Nice fix! Just had to do a similsr repair to a 2005 Peugeot 307 engine bay fusebox after one of the built in relays for the injection failed. New boards are NLS from Peugeot, so it would have meant finding a good used unit.
Really cool👍👍
Job well done!