I'm glad I saw this; your work is state-of-the-art. Great job on everything, I just have to agree with the comment about spoken details, I saw the on-screen notice and it disappeared, I watched again and thought I could've missed some - and I'd missed 2 others! But overall, a superlative show, and I will be going back to re-watch some more. Keep up the great work - PLEASE!
Loved all aspects of this build and the longer format....keep it going! Your tips are great and provide a newish modeler like me things to think about. I've had a Matilda sitting in a cupboard for a while now and have been reticent to start due to the paint scheme.....you have inspired me to begin so thanks. 👏
That is a good question, I made this a long time ago! I usually use the following for polished wheels, can't exactly remember in this case, but usually I go for either enamel, Humbrol Metalcote (burnishable), Hannants XtraColor Oily Steel, acryrilic/lacquer, Mr. Hobby Mr Metalizer (burnishable acrylic lacquer) or I apply gun metal pigments with a paper pencil. Here it was probably the latter from the Lifecolor range, though I am not 100% certain. Any of these techniques get that effect.
@@scalewarmachines Thanks for the long informative reply...I'm still learning and posted a few vids of my models on my channel...I used your vid to see how much of the matilda you had put together before you sprayed it...I've left a few parts off mine for spraying like the exhausts, doors and spare tracks to paint seperately...Thanks for the vid again...
you used hairspray for paint chipping earlier in the video but I didn't see any chipping in the end pic's or did I miss something, nice model though, keep up the good work..
Very good question. It wasn't video-recorded and it's impossible to remember to be honest but we use the following for polished steel on a regular basis. Option 1) enamels like XtraColor Polished Steel or the buffable Humbrol metacote steel 2) Mr. Color burnishable metallics from Gunze Sangyo (think they're called Mr. Metallizer) 3) graphite powder or metallic pigments applied with a blending pencil (a pencil shaped paper blending tool for pastels seen in our polished metal video) or 4) a good old-fashioned pencil!
You guys have really upped your game. I can see you're really trying to demonstrate technique and get information across while wasting a minimum amount of viewers' time, and it's appreciated. You do a superb job of editing. My biggest concern now is that fantastic content like this might eventually disappear behind a paywall. Constructive criticism- you should let your presenter speak instead of relying solely on subtitles. A couple times I was so intent on watching the action, I had to wind back to read the captions. I miss the human connection - the eccentric way he has of using the royal we, and ending videos with an abrupt "bye" always made me chuckle. I'm looking forward to seeing what you have for us next time.
How Bovington can get Portland stone mixed up for sea blue or a light blue even Tamyia have it mixed up for xf 23 light blue everyone thinks it must be correct because Bovington has it in that colour but they do admit it was an error and just left it!
The construction and masking was about 3-5 or so hours of modelling. The primer and slate grey base coat was pretty much as you see it, so about a hour to two max. The rest though was done rapid-fire in one evening in a race against time for model club the next day. Model club is good as it forces you to finish models. Let's just say, it was all pretty much complete at about midnight, when the neighbour freaked out and went beserk due to the noise! However, the acrylic then enamel, then pigments, then oils, followed by the enamels route you see allows you to work fast by alternating. Sealing with Klear or Matt varnish in between is a good way to make sure you don't have a nightmare or unwanted reaction. But it can speed up the weathering no end.
I enjoyed the absence of blue. Nice job.
Beautiful best one iv seen so far! Iv one waiting to be built after my churchill! So nice to see someone use the correct contour scheme and not blue!!
I'll be ordering life colours British contour paint kit in the morning after seeing this nice work and video
I'm glad I saw this; your work is state-of-the-art. Great job on everything, I just have to agree with the comment about spoken details, I saw the on-screen notice and it disappeared, I watched again and thought I could've missed some - and I'd missed 2 others! But overall, a superlative show, and I will be going back to re-watch some more. Keep up the great work - PLEASE!
Loved all aspects of this build and the longer format....keep it going! Your tips are great and provide a newish modeler like me things to think about. I've had a Matilda sitting in a cupboard for a while now and have been reticent to start due to the paint scheme.....you have inspired me to begin so thanks. 👏
Great build and paint job, it’s also one of my favourite tanks.
What an epic build.
15:13 a tip for an aztec Testor's airbrush !!! I've one and sell it to an surfboard maker, this was in '98 or '99. Fantastic job man !!!
Unexpected camouflage. Well done model as always :-)
Awesome job,love the finished model,look's like you where having fun.
Nice job on the Matilda. I'm still working on mine.
Nice work loving the camouflage scheme 👍 weathering looks super buddy 🍻 Looks 1st class 😍
Superb job, it really looks the part. Well done!
Beautiful job 🙏
Nice job ! Thank you for sharing
Awesome, I’m just about to start mine.
Total Awesomeness
Thanks
Wow, very nice!
Good work!
Awesome video love your Videos they help the hobby so much.
Bravo!
Looks great, thanks for sharing!...Bill
I love you !!! very good #!!#!!
What is used to create the shiney metalic parts on the wheels?...Really nice touch to see the areas on the wheels that are in contact with the tracks
That is a good question, I made this a long time ago! I usually use the following for polished wheels, can't exactly remember in this case, but usually I go for either enamel, Humbrol Metalcote (burnishable), Hannants XtraColor Oily Steel, acryrilic/lacquer, Mr. Hobby Mr Metalizer (burnishable acrylic lacquer) or I apply gun metal pigments with a paper pencil. Here it was probably the latter from the Lifecolor range, though I am not 100% certain. Any of these techniques get that effect.
@@scalewarmachines Thanks for the long informative reply...I'm still learning and posted a few vids of my models on my channel...I used your vid to see how much of the matilda you had put together before you sprayed it...I've left a few parts off mine for spraying like the exhausts, doors and spare tracks to paint seperately...Thanks for the vid again...
Great work. But I'm curious as to why you added rust washes and pin washes after the matt sealing coat?
Did you seal it again?
he added a clear coat before the washes so he can protect the pain job, then yes after the washes you usually seal it again
you used hairspray for paint chipping earlier in the video but I didn't see any chipping in the end pic's or did I miss something, nice model though, keep up the good work..
You see it in the midpoint in the video but there was not much chipping between the slate grey and the brown but more done later.
Isnt the cast texture on this model kit good enough from before? As it is a newer kit by Tamiya.
Good excuse to inhale a bit of Mr. Surfacer.
Nice work. What paint did you use to make the chrome wheels? It looks very realistic.
Very good question. It wasn't video-recorded and it's impossible to remember to be honest but we use the following for polished steel on a regular basis. Option 1) enamels like XtraColor Polished Steel or the buffable Humbrol metacote steel 2) Mr. Color burnishable metallics from Gunze Sangyo (think they're called Mr. Metallizer) 3) graphite powder or metallic pigments applied with a blending pencil (a pencil shaped paper blending tool for pastels seen in our polished metal video) or 4) a good old-fashioned pencil!
You guys have really upped your game. I can see you're really trying to demonstrate technique and get information across while wasting a minimum amount of viewers' time, and it's appreciated. You do a superb job of editing. My biggest concern now is that fantastic content like this might eventually disappear behind a paywall.
Constructive criticism- you should let your presenter speak instead of relying solely on subtitles. A couple times I was so intent on watching the action, I had to wind back to read the captions. I miss the human connection - the eccentric way he has of using the royal we, and ending videos with an abrupt "bye" always made me chuckle.
I'm looking forward to seeing what you have for us next time.
What kind of glue is that your using here?
How Bovington can get Portland stone mixed up for sea blue or a light blue even Tamyia have it mixed up for xf 23 light blue everyone thinks it must be correct because Bovington has it in that colour but they do admit it was an error and just left it!
Great work, and very informative. But it's a bit lonely without voice over.
Voice over will return in future, when we get a chance to record it in time, last two Build & Paints had to be rushed out without it.
Great video for a beginner a shame there was no narrative, thanks.
Tried that format briefly but most videos have commentary.
How long did it take you to finish the work
The construction and masking was about 3-5 or so hours of modelling. The primer and slate grey base coat was pretty much as you see it, so about a hour to two max. The rest though was done rapid-fire in one evening in a race against time for model club the next day. Model club is good as it forces you to finish models. Let's just say, it was all pretty much complete at about midnight, when the neighbour freaked out and went beserk due to the noise! However, the acrylic then enamel, then pigments, then oils, followed by the enamels route you see allows you to work fast by alternating. Sealing with Klear or Matt varnish in between is a good way to make sure you don't have a nightmare or unwanted reaction. But it can speed up the weathering no end.
Hi
you need to mute the sound of airbrushing for God's sake or play some music over it - very annoying