What I like about your videos ( as others have said ) is the small and big details you describe , with big clear pictures . All steps are explained as is the reasoning behind them. There is little if any viewer assumed knowledge . I sometimes feel other utubers are condensing their presentations and become summaries of what needs to be done . Anyways I like your teaching style and the massive effort you put into your craft for our benefit.
Exceptional series of input shaper videos. Not to mention all the other Klipper content, which has made my journey from a lethargic stock Ender 3 Pro to a shaking (but under control!) directly driven, auto bed calibrating, Klipper-powered powerhouse a mostly painless and illuminating one. Great stuff, Chris, keep it up.
Did a recent "recalibration" after initial setup with an accelerometer, as i noticed when printing at 200mm/s before without input shaper i had little ringing and after it seemed to introduce ringing (Sermoon D1 is pretty sturdy).. but maybe that wasn't the entire picture. So this time i warmed up the machine, since it's enclosed (i put a top on it) all the parts/metals get warm.. so i did another calibration with the accelerometer, to find it shifts about -6 in the X direction and -2 in the y direction (ran it twice to make sure). THEN! i ran some test prints, now it's finally better than with it off 🥰 Before i would have to run a print at over 300mms/3000accel for input shaping to start working, and worked very well at 400mm/4000accel, but i print a lot of mechanical parts and generally can't rely on prints that come out that fast so it was an issue for me (minor). The ringing or faux ringing does have a noticeable effect on print integrity, and now i can print out great mechanical parts at 200mms 😏 Long->Short; warm up your machine to typical operating temps and let it saturate before running calibration with an accelerometer
Great comment, thanks for posting. I have seen some of the new machines that are coming out with input shaper. They do the exact same thing you did here, they have a heat soak sequence to make it more stable.
I have got to say, I’m always so happy to see you got a video on a topic that I’m involved with! Back then I wouldn’t have been able to set up my MMU without you, and now I set up my Voron 0 with your help. Amazing work, keep it up!
Thanks Chris, this is very interesting. I will be using help from my grandson this weekend. He loves this kind of stuff. I bought the ADXL345 and will make my own harness. I really appreciate your videos. Great job. Thanks again, Steve
Thanks for the video, I missed a critical step trying to follow the docs, but your video showed me where I messed up. Now I'm working. Appreciate you sir.
I'm glad to see such a detailed guide on setting up Input Shaper because I think so many people can benefit from it. I saw so much improvement in my prints that it seems like magic. Wiring a sensor might initially be a bit harder for some, but it makes recalibration or setting up on another printer so quick.
Nice work Chris. I use a retired Lenovo mini pc as my klipper computer so I use a Pi pico to talk to the accelerometer; works well. Also if you have multiple Klipper printers I think it is easier to setup as you only configure the communication with the mcu once.
Input shaper is amazing!! Calibrated it on my printer the manual way and the results are astonishing! Got my cheap ass MK3S clone to 5000 acceleration using "only" 3000 for printing (5000 for travel moves) and got an immaculate Benchy at 130 mm/s print speed in just 40 minutes!! Ordered an ADXL but honestly, I don't think it's required. Btw. no need to go for 3-4 decimal places. Just round it down and you're good.
For anyone who is creating their own wiring harness for their ADXL345, you need to keep the wire as short as possible and the docs recommend using twisted-pair wiring like you find in CAT5 networking cables. Check the docs for which wires need to be paired together, because it *does* seem to matter. All three of my ADXL345's reported errors with straight (and long) ribbon cable. Once I created the twisted-pair cable (pairing together the wires that the docs specify), the very first ADXL345 that I had plugged in immediately returned good values. Hope this helps someone.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, and thank you for putting out the advanced tutorials. There are tons of tutorials for beginners to 3d printing, but the more advanced topics seem to be glossed over. Also, to anyone interested, I tested all three of my ADXL345's and *_all three_* tested good with the twisted pair cable. I wonder how many people thought they received a bad chip when it was the cable all along.
Lovely, thorough run through of the process. I’ve recently swapped some parts on my Railcore Y-carriage / hot-end, and should probably run though this process again.
Surly the mass of the accelerometer and screws being removed after the calibration will have some effect, maybe printing a badge with the same weight to fit on the fan fixing and the bed to equalise this mass will benefit in some small way?
same i like the details you go into and make it pretty simeple to follow, i had a question that sensor is pretty cheap but i have seen others out that might be asier that just plug into usb and usb-c into the accelerometer, i think i will go with the one you went with but wanted to know about the others if they would be harder to set up via ssh and the klipper interface with just the initial setup in the config file
Thanks! You should be able to run a sensor plugged into USB, but I'm not sure how it would be defined. I'm interested I will look around at what options there are.
As ever your videos are so great!! Is possible to print ringing tower model whith several IS types with fixed acceleration instead of print a whole model at same IS type only?
Thank you! That is a great question, with Klipper you can change the model on the fly. So, if you did some creative slicing you could enter this command at different layer heights to change it as it printed. SET_INPUT_SHAPER SHAPER_TYPE=XXX
I think that Input shape should be accompanied by this closed loop steppers to detect, correct and modify the accelerations in real time while printing.
@@ChrisRiley beats me, but at least it works now and I have a spare pico (order was 2-pack) for whatever. I tried 3 diff adxl thinking I got a bad set.
I have a question. You tested frequencies with accelerometer. But when you did that, there were manual input shaper values already in your printer.cfg. Didn't they interfere with the new calibration? I believe, it would have given more accurate results if you would have removed those before using accelerometer.
I'm getting the following error from the LDO input shaper kit option 'probe_points' in section 'resonance_tester' must be specified, I googled and redit suggested it was a wiring issue. After some time messing with it I gave up, I might get a Trianglelab USB adxl345 Accelerometer instead.
You can just load them into your printer.cfg. Just make sure your slicer isn't sending any commands to your printer like I show when we slice the part in video 1.
Hi Chris, these 2 parts videos have been really really helpful! many thanks! a question though, I did this and the recommended shaper for x is ei whilst for y is mzv. Can we use different flavour within the input shaper entry for the config?
Hey Chris, if I only have 1 pi with 2 printer interfaces, can I add the entries for mcu rpi, adxl, and resonance_tester on each of the printer's cfg? and can they stay there permanently? do i have to REM on one if I wanna use it on the other? it's just that, I got everything set on 1 printer and everything was hunky dory, and now I wanna do it on the 2nd one, it kept complaining that it cannot connect to the rpi mcu.
oh and if I have to mount it and ended up x & y swapped places, what should i do in the coding as it's clearly marked on the board which way x an y is. Thanks
Here's an example, if you need them swapped just change X to y and Y to x. [stepper_x] step_pin: PF0 dir_pin: PF1 enable_pin: !PD7 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 40 endstop_pin: ^PE5 position_endstop: 0 position_max: 200 [stepper_y] step_pin: PF6 dir_pin: !PF7 enable_pin: !PF2 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 40 endstop_pin: ^PJ1 position_endstop: 0 position_max: 200
@@ChrisRiley oh, where do we set that? Printer.cfg? I read somewhere that I have to set axes_map: y,x,z ? But tried that still got a very skewed result.
Chris, is there an email I can contact you at? I have a few questions and would love some input from you on a few issues I'm having with my CR10S. Thanks.
hi chris, ı got an error which is not usual I gess. After installed numpy when trying to setup rpi as a secondery mcu I just looked up to the orjinal klipper documantry and your video but I couldn t complete the setup, can you help? biqu@birol-btt:~/klipper$ sudo service klipper stop Failed to stop klipper.service: Unit klipper.service not loaded.
What does sudo service klipper status show? Hoping the install was okay and the service got loaded. Try to start it as well. sudo service klipper start
@@ChrisRiley I have found the solution, I m using Btt pi V1.2 and code line needed to be change a little bit, I tried to send this "sudo service klipper-mcu stop" instead of "sudo service klipper stop" it worked just normal. The start line also needs to be send like this way. Why there is a difference I don't know but, maybe you can try to build it also with the btt pi😄
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
What I like about your videos ( as others have said ) is the small and big details you describe , with big clear pictures . All steps are explained as is the reasoning behind them. There is little if any viewer assumed knowledge . I sometimes feel other utubers are condensing their presentations and become summaries of what needs to be done . Anyways I like your teaching style and the massive effort you put into your craft for our benefit.
Thank you! That is great to hear that my video are helpful.
Exceptional series of input shaper videos. Not to mention all the other Klipper content, which has made my journey from a lethargic stock Ender 3 Pro to a shaking (but under control!) directly driven, auto bed calibrating, Klipper-powered powerhouse a mostly painless and illuminating one. Great stuff, Chris, keep it up.
Thank you so much!
Did a recent "recalibration" after initial setup with an accelerometer, as i noticed when printing at 200mm/s before without input shaper i had little ringing and after it seemed to introduce ringing (Sermoon D1 is pretty sturdy).. but maybe that wasn't the entire picture. So this time i warmed up the machine, since it's enclosed (i put a top on it) all the parts/metals get warm.. so i did another calibration with the accelerometer, to find it shifts about -6 in the X direction and -2 in the y direction (ran it twice to make sure). THEN! i ran some test prints, now it's finally better than with it off 🥰
Before i would have to run a print at over 300mms/3000accel for input shaping to start working, and worked very well at 400mm/4000accel, but i print a lot of mechanical parts and generally can't rely on prints that come out that fast so it was an issue for me (minor). The ringing or faux ringing does have a noticeable effect on print integrity, and now i can print out great mechanical parts at 200mms 😏
Long->Short; warm up your machine to typical operating temps and let it saturate before running calibration with an accelerometer
Great comment, thanks for posting. I have seen some of the new machines that are coming out with input shaper. They do the exact same thing you did here, they have a heat soak sequence to make it more stable.
I have got to say, I’m always so happy to see you got a video on a topic that I’m involved with! Back then I wouldn’t have been able to set up my MMU without you, and now I set up my Voron 0 with your help. Amazing work, keep it up!
That is awesome to hear, thank you so much for the comment.
Thanks Chris, this is very interesting. I will be using help from my grandson this weekend. He loves this kind of stuff. I bought the ADXL345 and will make my own harness. I really appreciate your videos. Great job. Thanks again, Steve
That's great, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, I missed a critical step trying to follow the docs, but your video showed me where I messed up. Now I'm working. Appreciate you sir.
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
I'm glad to see such a detailed guide on setting up Input Shaper because I think so many people can benefit from it. I saw so much improvement in my prints that it seems like magic. Wiring a sensor might initially be a bit harder for some, but it makes recalibration or setting up on another printer so quick.
Absolutely, I'm trying to break it down as much as I can. It's very impressive.
best tutorials/videos on 3D printing...period! Great work and thanks a lot!
Wow, thanks!
Nice work Chris. I use a retired Lenovo mini pc as my klipper computer so I use a Pi pico to talk to the accelerometer; works well. Also if you have multiple Klipper printers I think it is easier to setup as you only configure the communication with the mcu once.
Thanks for the info!
Input shaper is amazing!!
Calibrated it on my printer the manual way and the results are astonishing! Got my cheap ass MK3S clone to 5000 acceleration using "only" 3000 for printing (5000 for travel moves) and got an immaculate Benchy at 130 mm/s print speed in just 40 minutes!!
Ordered an ADXL but honestly, I don't think it's required.
Btw. no need to go for 3-4 decimal places. Just round it down and you're good.
Thanks for the info!
For anyone who is creating their own wiring harness for their ADXL345, you need to keep the wire as short as possible and the docs recommend using twisted-pair wiring like you find in CAT5 networking cables. Check the docs for which wires need to be paired together, because it *does* seem to matter. All three of my ADXL345's reported errors with straight (and long) ribbon cable. Once I created the twisted-pair cable (pairing together the wires that the docs specify), the very first ADXL345 that I had plugged in immediately returned good values. Hope this helps someone.
Great tips, thanks for posting.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, and thank you for putting out the advanced tutorials. There are tons of tutorials for beginners to 3d printing, but the more advanced topics seem to be glossed over.
Also, to anyone interested, I tested all three of my ADXL345's and *_all three_* tested good with the twisted pair cable. I wonder how many people thought they received a bad chip when it was the cable all along.
@@mercy3094 I don't see why not. It should react the same way.
Thanks Chris, I was looking everywhere on how to wire two adxls because I thought it was a permanent fixture
👍🙂
Great video can’t wait for more. I see that you had some highlights done. I’m glad I am not the only one. 😂❤😊
😁
I would love for someone to do a similar video using REPRAP, since reprap approaches input shaping differently
Thanks, I'll look into it!
33:42 would be interesting to add 200g to the bed to simulate a big print and if it would impact the input shaper.
That would be interesting
Lovely, thorough run through of the process. I’ve recently swapped some parts on my Railcore Y-carriage / hot-end, and should probably run though this process again.
It can't hurt. Thanks!
Surly the mass of the accelerometer and screws being removed after the calibration will have some effect, maybe printing a badge with the same weight to fit on the fan fixing and the bed to equalise this mass will benefit in some small way?
Good thought, that would be something to try.
Well done, super helpful!
Glad you think so!
Great videos Chris. Much appreciated. I'm running my Sr at 7000. Still ringing but improved from stock settings. Maybe some more tuning to be done 😊
Keep after it! Thanks for watching
That really is the coolest failed print ever.
🙂👍
same i like the details you go into and make it pretty simeple to follow, i had a question that sensor is pretty cheap but i have seen others out that might be asier that just plug into usb and usb-c into the accelerometer, i think i will go with the one you went with but wanted to know about the others if they would be harder to set up via ssh and the klipper interface with just the initial setup in the config file
your printables file wont fit for my setup as im using the sprite extruder on my ender3's and an mk8 for my cr10s5
but thats still pretty cool
Thanks! You should be able to run a sensor plugged into USB, but I'm not sure how it would be defined. I'm interested I will look around at what options there are.
Great video! I am waiting for the parts for my switchwire
Thanks, good luck on your projects!
As ever your videos are so great!!
Is possible to print ringing tower model whith several IS types with fixed acceleration instead of print a whole model at same IS type only?
Thank you! That is a great question, with Klipper you can change the model on the fly. So, if you did some creative slicing you could enter this command at different layer heights to change it as it printed. SET_INPUT_SHAPER SHAPER_TYPE=XXX
I think that Input shape should be accompanied by this closed loop steppers to detect, correct and modify the accelerations in real time while printing.
🙂👍
I tried the direct wire method. Got a test response, but trying to run the test always errored. Ended up using a Pi Pico as the mcu and it works fine.
Hmmm, interesting, I wonder what it was having a problem getting back?
@@ChrisRiley beats me, but at least it works now and I have a spare pico (order was 2-pack) for whatever. I tried 3 diff adxl thinking I got a bad set.
I have a question. You tested frequencies with accelerometer. But when you did that, there were manual input shaper values already in your printer.cfg. Didn't they interfere with the new calibration? I believe, it would have given more accurate results if you would have removed those before using accelerometer.
Yes, you want to zero those settings out before you do the test. There is a console command we run to turn it off before the test.
TEST_RESONANCES AXIS Script switches off Input Shaper before start test.
It mostly supports discontinued accelerometers though. I wish they would support some of the newer ones that are easier to get.
I saw several listings on Amazon for ADXL345 for very reasonable prices. $8-10 for a 3 pack
@@MallocArray What about the ICM-20948? Or something with a decent resolution?
Not sure about any of those yet, hopefully Klipper will come out with some new doc on them.
I'm getting the following error from the LDO input shaper kit option 'probe_points' in section 'resonance_tester' must be specified, I googled and redit suggested it was a wiring issue. After some time messing with it I gave up, I might get a Trianglelab USB adxl345 Accelerometer instead.
Make sure your config looks like this.
[adxl345]
cs_pin: rpi:None
[resonance_tester]
accel_chip: adxl345
probe_points:
125,115,20 # an example
I'm a noob and really dumb when it comes to this stuff. Once we have the max accel value, do we have to put that into our slicer's printer settings?
You can just load them into your printer.cfg. Just make sure your slicer isn't sending any commands to your printer like I show when we slice the part in video 1.
Could you also do a video on input shaper for RRF? (Specifically on a Delta printer :D)
I'll look into it, thanks!
atleast somebody gets how it works and point out the hidden stuff gj
Thanks
Hi Chris, these 2 parts videos have been really really helpful! many thanks! a question though, I did this and the recommended shaper for x is ei whilst for y is mzv. Can we use different flavour within the input shaper entry for the config?
Yes, in klipper you can use the different ones, use the ones the calibration recommends.
I can't find the file for the fixture for the bed, can you please put the direct linl to the STL?
I can't find the one I used, this one might work. www.printables.com/model/128294-ender-3-v2pro-adxl345-bed-mount
I got recommended 7700mm/s^2 on my flimsy prusa mk3s 0_0
it has ABS-CF parts but otherwise....
👍🙂
Trying to set this up with 2 printers and 1 pi is it even possible cant really find any info on it
Try this video!
OctoPrint - Multiple Instance Setup - Raspberry Pi & Linux
th-cam.com/video/nDwW3eNxp2k/w-d-xo.html
👍
👍🙂
Hey Chris, if I only have 1 pi with 2 printer interfaces, can I add the entries for mcu rpi, adxl, and resonance_tester on each of the printer's cfg? and can they stay there permanently?
do i have to REM on one if I wanna use it on the other? it's just that, I got everything set on 1 printer and everything was hunky dory, and now I wanna do it on the 2nd one, it kept complaining that it cannot connect to the rpi mcu.
never mind, i found that you can only have it on one printer.cfg at a time :)
oh and if I have to mount it and ended up x & y swapped places, what should i do in the coding as it's clearly marked on the board which way x an y is. Thanks
Here's an example, if you need them swapped just change X to y and Y to x.
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PF0
dir_pin: PF1
enable_pin: !PD7
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PE5
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 200
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PF6
dir_pin: !PF7
enable_pin: !PF2
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: ^PJ1
position_endstop: 0
position_max: 200
@@ChrisRiley oh, where do we set that? Printer.cfg? I read somewhere that I have to set axes_map: y,x,z ? But tried that still got a very skewed result.
So, by swapping the pointers of the steppers, adxl345 will follow that instead of the settings set under adxl345?
Chris, is there an email I can contact you at? I have a few questions and would love some input from you on a few issues I'm having with my CR10S. Thanks.
chrisriley3d@gmail.com
I'll see if I can help
hi chris, ı got an error which is not usual I gess. After installed numpy when trying to setup rpi as a secondery mcu I just looked up to the orjinal klipper documantry and your video but I couldn t complete the setup, can you help? biqu@birol-btt:~/klipper$ sudo service klipper stop
Failed to stop klipper.service: Unit klipper.service not loaded.
What does sudo service klipper status show? Hoping the install was okay and the service got loaded. Try to start it as well. sudo service klipper start
@@ChrisRiley I have found the solution, I m using Btt pi V1.2 and code line needed to be change a little bit, I tried to send this "sudo service klipper-mcu stop" instead of "sudo service klipper stop" it worked just normal. The start line also needs to be send like this way. Why there is a difference I don't know but, maybe you can try to build it also with the btt pi😄