Always great to hear from the Gadd-Fly! Especially after all these decades since the Seventies in Boulder! 🙏🏾 I wrote in my first book (THE OUTDOOR ATHLETE - in which Will was interviewed) my version; Prepare for the worst, Expect the unexpected, Visualize the best
As somebody who deals with anxiety, I think I might need to start asking myself what hazard level I'm at because I'm over-estimating it from the other direction. Really fantastic conversation
Alex -- when you ask at the beginning whether either of you could have achieved what you did without a high degree of risk tolerance, the answer is a resounding "duh". You are a smart guy, so I am sure that I am not telling you something you don't know yourself. Let's do some probability math. Suppose that you face an objective probability of 1/100 of a fatal fall. It turns out that the probability of a fatal fall at some point during 100 climbs is 63%. The paradox is that if you climbed 100 times and survived, the probability of the NEXT climb being fatal is still "only" 1/100. But if on January 1 you tell your wife: honey, this year I will climb 100 times (each time with "only" 1/100 risk), at the time you say it your odds of making it to the end of the year are less than 50/50. Let's re-do the math with a 1/1000 probability. If you climb 100 times, the probability of a fatality is now only 10%. But if you do it 1000 times, it's again 63%. I pass no judgment as to what odds you or anyone else should be willing to accept. I've heard you say to Adam Ondra that you mostly enjoy doing lots of climbs with a negligible risk relative to your skill level and that you go for the higher (but still acceptable to you) risks very rarely. The fact that you're still alive is clear evidence that you must be pretty good at assessing risk and climbing within your capabilities. But the math of doing many many reps of a risky activity is inescapable. Going from "accepting" 1/100 risk to 1/1000 to 1/10000 makes a humongous difference. Now it's your turn to say "duh". All I can say is that I am incredibly relieved that you are starting to ratchet down the risk level you are willing to accept. I look forward to the videos of the legendary Alex playing with his grandchildren! P.S.: I personally have great admiration for Ed Viesturs ("getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory") but not so much for Marc-Andre Leclerc (whose implicit phrase, as you say, was "F-it").
Im a big fan of steep dry tooling. Its fun, safe, gymnastic, and great for getting worked if youre rehabbing a pulley injury. Would love to hear more about the future of dry tooling as a safe but adventurous playground.
This was just such a great convo
Damn - will gladd is the man.
So many life lessons here, not just climbing lessons. It made me smile lots!
That's great to hear!
Always great to hear from the Gadd-Fly! Especially after all these decades since the Seventies in Boulder! 🙏🏾
I wrote in my first book (THE OUTDOOR ATHLETE - in which Will was interviewed) my version;
Prepare for the worst,
Expect the unexpected,
Visualize the best
This was really an amazing video! What a great way to think about and discuss risk with children! So much to think about
Thank you so much! Glad you found it thought provoking :)
Great risk assessment training - thanks!
As somebody who deals with anxiety, I think I might need to start asking myself what hazard level I'm at because I'm over-estimating it from the other direction. Really fantastic conversation
Sage advice for you, Alex
Alex -- when you ask at the beginning whether either of you could have achieved what you did without a high degree of risk tolerance, the answer is a resounding "duh".
You are a smart guy, so I am sure that I am not telling you something you don't know yourself.
Let's do some probability math. Suppose that you face an objective probability of 1/100 of a fatal fall. It turns out that the probability of a fatal fall at some point during 100 climbs is 63%. The paradox is that if you climbed 100 times and survived, the probability of the NEXT climb being fatal is still "only" 1/100. But if on January 1 you tell your wife: honey, this year I will climb 100 times (each time with "only" 1/100 risk), at the time you say it your odds of making it to the end of the year are less than 50/50.
Let's re-do the math with a 1/1000 probability. If you climb 100 times, the probability of a fatality is now only 10%. But if you do it 1000 times, it's again 63%.
I pass no judgment as to what odds you or anyone else should be willing to accept. I've heard you say to Adam Ondra that you mostly enjoy doing lots of climbs with a negligible risk relative to your skill level and that you go for the higher (but still acceptable to you) risks very rarely. The fact that you're still alive is clear evidence that you must be pretty good at assessing risk and climbing within your capabilities. But the math of doing many many reps of a risky activity is inescapable. Going from "accepting" 1/100 risk to 1/1000 to 1/10000 makes a humongous difference. Now it's your turn to say "duh".
All I can say is that I am incredibly relieved that you are starting to ratchet down the risk level you are willing to accept. I look forward to the videos of the legendary Alex playing with his grandchildren!
P.S.: I personally have great admiration for Ed Viesturs ("getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory") but not so much for Marc-Andre Leclerc (whose implicit phrase, as you say, was "F-it").
Im a big fan of steep dry tooling. Its fun, safe, gymnastic, and great for getting worked if youre rehabbing a pulley injury. Would love to hear more about the future of dry tooling as a safe but adventurous playground.
The best way to frame the question: "Do kids ruin your life?"