Got one for my fg700s, installed myself, first time doing work like this on a guitar, just tired of techs, it is amazing, lower action, easier on hands all around and now a dream on first frets. Installing one on my Riviera p94 today!
I needed a new nut on my Strat, after years of abuse. So I had a Zero-Glide installed. I like it! You get perfectly consistent action at the first frets, the same tone on open and fretted notes, and even improved stability on using the whammy bar. (Brian May credits the zero-fret on his Red Special for the tuning stability, as well.) I would say that if you have a guitar, and the nut is working fine and there are no issues, then stick with what you've got. But if you need a new one, or even any major work done, then go for this.
I've used one on my Martin OMC for well over a year now. I've been playing for over 40 years so my ear is pretty well developed and I love the thing. My guitar just stays in tune. I'm heavy handed and even after playing for an hour or so and with some intense bending it just keeps its tuning. It's a godsend after playing with a regular nut my whole life. I just sent for four more for some of my other guitars and I'll probably buy more for my other banjos and ukuleles and mandolins. For a playing junkie like me it makes playing so much more pleasurable because I'm not getting pissed off having to break my stride and stop playing to re-tune so often.
I think they are fantastic. I'm sure you could set up a nut to a similar height but the margin of error is very small, a zero fret of the right height does it in one step. Intonation and staying in tune whilst playing is a huge plus too. Some people just don't like change it seems :)
Been using these for years, and it's a great product. Increased sustain and even tone between open and fretted notes, and works wonders with properly tuned tremolos.
Should also help tuning when using a trem as binding of strings due to friction in string slots of a standard nut could be minimised - the slots acting as guides and the friction being on top of the zero fret.
That’s so funny- listening to the introduction, I just realized that the jangly sound of a Gretsch is partly due to the brighter sound of the open strings on the zero fret! Can’t believe that I’ve overlooked it all these years…
Not sure that's true as all 3 of my Gretsches have a jangly sound but not one has a zero fret. In fact I'm here as I'm considering getting one for each of my gretsches.
I just wish they came with stainless frets instead of charging extra for them. The nickel frets get divots in them from tuning and then ping when you bend notes in the first position. The stainless fret solved that issue. Should come standard.
I gotta try this out.. I'm so tired of having the high b an e strings sound like a sitar because the nut is cut wrong and it not being a truss rod or high fret ..
Thanks for the review. I'm looking at these now and needed some clarification and information. Comparing to some adjustable brass and titanium ones. They are cheaper, but these look like a better solution.
I installed this on one of my steel string acoustics and it works very well!Reduces finger pressure and the notes ring clearly.Now I'm going to install one on an electric solid body.BTW I find an old Record no.73 shoulder plane is better for trimming the excess than sandpaper.Also you need a rock& rolla guitar support or homemade alternative to hold the guitar neck while working.
I've been considering this for my favorite SG. Two things that I'm wondering about. Is the fretwire stainless steel? And is replacement fretwire available?
Is there a way to just get the size for a particular model? I see they have Gibson sizes, but I just wanted to know how I could find one for an epiphone Sheraton II without doing measurements....
Now, if you would offer a Left-handed COMPENSATED fret, then this would be my solution. Of course I know it's not that easy to manufacture compensated frets, but it is doable. Keep me updated.
I really like this if it works the way it sounds.I have a les paul myself and would love to try it. But I know there are different model #'s. Could you tell which one you used on yours. This could help my intonation a great deal!!
it's funny that zero frets used to be a sign of a dirt cheap Japanese guitar. I have a bunch of old cheap Japanese guitars from the 60s. these are the type of guitar you could buy at Woolworth's for $29 bucks. they all have zero frets, because it's cheap to manufacture. I love them, for most of the same reasons dicribed here.
Nuts don't retain or improve tuning. A luthiers knot at each post will, along with properly cut string slots, string slot lubricant and deburred or roller saddles. And snug tuning gears.
You said properly cut slots, in "the NUT" right so a nut DOES affect the tuning if it's not cut correctly. Your statement is incorrect but corrected later in the same statement. You mean a correctly cut nut won't affect tuning. Sorry but ocd made me do it.
@dancotterman1267 I was implying that a normal non locking bone or self lubricating nut that is properly cut will not on its own have a bearing on tuning issues and that a luthiers knot at the post, locking tuners and nut lubricant at the nut along with clearing up any issues at the saddle area will eliminate most if not all tuning retention concerns mostly on a Gibson from my experiences.
@@jackbuchanan6441 Oh good. Zero Glide Nuts are a must have for every string instrument to help the strings slide more smoothly. The updated version of the Zero Fret system where the Zero Fret is now attached to the nut.
Zero glide is a nice alternative that doesn't require you to remove a piece of your fretboard, nor does it need to be screwed in. LSR nuts can't say the same.
You have given no reason why intonation would be affected. A properly slotted nut should have each slot leveled to the same level as a zero fret. Admittedly this guitar sounds in extremely good tune for a LP. The only advantages I can see is that of the materials being more similar using the zero fret and the possibility of less friction since the string is resting on smooth metal and being guided on the sides only by bone/plastic, etc. A roller nut does a similar job with even less potential friction.
Roller nuts require modification to the fretboard - the point of this is to get similar results without cutting out a piece of your guitar and screwing in a new part.
A well cut nut would be exactly the same height as a zero fret would be. There is no advantage in terms of height. Watch a review by a luthier not a mere player.
Yes, maybe: but a 'well-cut nut' is not always seen, and takes a long time to make. This is much more reliably accurate and a reasonably handy amateur can fit it. I got a blank one and shaped it to my classical guitar (I'm left-handed).
the othe benefit of this type of nut is fretted notes sound better. metal on metal. put a capo on your guitar and play some open chords, you'll see what i mean. the chords are sharper, livelier, and have more rich overtones.
Remember that a well-cut nut will only be well-cut for a while. Nut material is softer than a fret and the slots will wear down. Also, a nut can only be well-cut for one specific string gauge. Put larger strings in a well-cut nut and it will raise the action; smaller strings sit lower and can buzz. With a zero fret the bottom of every string will be the same distance above the frets regardless of gauge.
The part where it goes south: "So actually, I'm considering this for my guitars". Why only considering it? If it's as good as you're suggesting, why isn't it a no-brainer for you?
Thank you for the kind words. We are pretty excited about the benefits that a Zero Glide offers!
Got one for my fg700s, installed myself, first time doing work like this on a guitar, just tired of techs, it is amazing, lower action, easier on hands all around and now a dream on first frets.
Installing one on my Riviera p94 today!
tired of techs?
the string height at the 0 position should be the same on a zero fret or a nut. If the nut is higher than the 0 fret, the nut was not cut properly.
I needed a new nut on my Strat, after years of abuse. So I had a Zero-Glide installed.
I like it! You get perfectly consistent action at the first frets, the same tone on open and fretted notes, and even improved stability on using the whammy bar. (Brian May credits the zero-fret on his Red Special for the tuning stability, as well.)
I would say that if you have a guitar, and the nut is working fine and there are no issues, then stick with what you've got. But if you need a new one, or even any major work done, then go for this.
I've used one on my Martin OMC for well over a year now. I've been playing for over 40 years so my ear is pretty well developed and I love the thing. My guitar just stays in tune. I'm heavy handed and even after playing for an hour or so and with some intense bending it just keeps its tuning. It's a godsend after playing with a regular nut my whole life.
I just sent for four more for some of my other guitars and I'll probably buy more for my other banjos and ukuleles and mandolins. For a playing junkie like me it makes playing so much more pleasurable because I'm not getting pissed off having to break my stride and stop playing to re-tune so often.
I think they are fantastic. I'm sure you could set up a nut to a similar height but the margin of error is very small, a zero fret of the right height does it in one step. Intonation and staying in tune whilst playing is a huge plus too.
Some people just don't like change it seems :)
Been using these for years, and it's a great product. Increased sustain and even tone between open and fretted notes, and works wonders with properly tuned tremolos.
Burns and Hofner originals from the 1960s all had zero frets. All played really well.
Should also help tuning when using a trem as binding of strings due to friction in string slots of a standard nut could be minimised - the slots acting as guides and the friction being on top of the zero fret.
“I too have been a victim of saying “Not Slut” in front of people. Well handled, Tom! 👍😁
I’m totally getting one of these, but I have to say that you can cut a nut to the right height.
That’s so funny- listening to the introduction, I just realized that the jangly sound of a Gretsch is partly due to the brighter sound of the open strings on the zero fret! Can’t believe that I’ve overlooked it all these years…
Not sure that's true as all 3 of my Gretsches have a jangly sound but not one has a zero fret. In fact I'm here as I'm considering getting one for each of my gretsches.
I just wish they came with stainless frets instead of charging extra for them. The nickel frets get divots in them from tuning and then ping when you bend notes in the first position. The stainless fret solved that issue. Should come standard.
I gotta try this out.. I'm so tired of having the high b an e strings sound like a sitar because the nut is cut wrong and it not being a truss rod or high fret ..
Thanks for the review. I'm looking at these now and needed some clarification and information. Comparing to some adjustable brass and titanium ones. They are cheaper, but these look like a better solution.
Where can I buy that Ear tuner and how much ?
I installed this on one of my steel string acoustics and it works very well!Reduces finger pressure and the notes ring clearly.Now I'm going to install one on an electric solid body.BTW I find an old Record no.73 shoulder plane is better for trimming the excess than sandpaper.Also you need a rock& rolla guitar support or homemade alternative to hold the guitar neck while working.
I've been considering this for my favorite SG. Two things that I'm wondering about. Is the fretwire stainless steel? And is replacement fretwire available?
Question is: where can we buy a slutted nut for our guitars? :P
Thanks for the review! :)
StewMac.com, Tusq from canada, amazon, ebay, they are sold on a lot of sites
@@jerryhummelhummel1465 WOW, I can buy sluts from those sites now? I mean SLUTted nuts
What is Rhero 27?
Is there a way to just get the size for a particular model? I see they have Gibson sizes, but I just wanted to know how I could find one for an epiphone Sheraton II without doing measurements....
Now, if you would offer a Left-handed COMPENSATED fret, then this would be my solution.
Of course I know it's not that easy to manufacture compensated frets, but it is doable.
Keep me updated.
They sell them also left handed and you can even ask for a custom one to certainly fit your own guitar.
I really like this if it works the way it sounds.I have a les paul myself and would love to try it. But I know there are different model #'s. Could you tell which one you used on yours. This could help my intonation a great deal!!
It's ZS-1
Thanks dude!!! Ahahaha!!
the question why isn't it a common part to the fretboard that zero fret.
it's funny that zero frets used to be a sign of a dirt cheap Japanese guitar. I have a bunch of old cheap Japanese guitars from the 60s. these are the type of guitar you could buy at Woolworth's for $29 bucks. they all have zero frets, because it's cheap to manufacture. I love them, for most of the same reasons dicribed here.
brian may used one on his guitar
Nuts don't retain or improve tuning.
A luthiers knot at each post will, along with properly cut string slots, string slot lubricant and deburred or roller saddles. And snug tuning gears.
You said properly cut slots, in "the NUT" right so a nut DOES affect the tuning if it's not cut correctly. Your statement is incorrect but corrected later in the same statement. You mean a correctly cut nut won't affect tuning. Sorry but ocd made me do it.
@dancotterman1267
I was implying that a normal non locking bone or self lubricating nut that is properly cut will not on its own have a bearing on tuning issues and that a luthiers knot at the post, locking tuners and nut lubricant at the nut along with clearing up any issues at the saddle area will eliminate most if not all tuning retention concerns mostly on a Gibson from my experiences.
A Roller nut is essentially a Zero Glide nut with rollers.
Roller nuts are also invasive and requires irreversible modification to your fretboard. The zero glide does not.
@@jackbuchanan6441 Oh good. Zero Glide Nuts are a must have for every string instrument to help the strings slide more smoothly. The updated version of the Zero Fret system where the Zero Fret is now attached to the nut.
5:18 thats a 'musical chord' .........
Νow thats clean.. Almost acoustic
just get am lsr roller . LSR MASTER RACE
Zero glide is a nice alternative that doesn't require you to remove a piece of your fretboard, nor does it need to be screwed in. LSR nuts can't say the same.
You have given no reason why intonation would be affected. A properly slotted nut should have each slot leveled to the same level as a zero fret. Admittedly this guitar sounds in extremely good tune for a LP. The only advantages I can see is that of the materials being more similar using the zero fret and the possibility of less friction since the string is resting on smooth metal and being guided on the sides only by bone/plastic, etc. A roller nut does a similar job with even less potential friction.
Roller nuts require modification to the fretboard - the point of this is to get similar results without cutting out a piece of your guitar and screwing in a new part.
the adjustable titanium nut on HP les pauls are the best. use good speakers and check this tone th-cam.com/video/xI9O7xfG2LA/w-d-xo.html
A well cut nut would be exactly the same height as a zero fret would be. There is no advantage in terms of height. Watch a review by a luthier not a mere player.
Yes, maybe: but a 'well-cut nut' is not always seen, and takes a long time to make. This is much more reliably accurate and a reasonably handy amateur can fit it. I got a blank one and shaped it to my classical guitar (I'm left-handed).
the othe benefit of this type of nut is fretted notes sound better. metal on metal. put a capo on your guitar and play some open chords, you'll see what i mean. the chords are sharper, livelier, and have more rich overtones.
Remember that a well-cut nut will only be well-cut for a while. Nut material is softer than a fret and the slots will wear down. Also, a nut can only be well-cut for one specific string gauge. Put larger strings in a well-cut nut and it will raise the action; smaller strings sit lower and can buzz. With a zero fret the bottom of every string will be the same distance above the frets regardless of gauge.
seems to be pretty chimey now
The part where it goes south: "So actually, I'm considering this for my guitars". Why only considering it? If it's as good as you're suggesting, why isn't it a no-brainer for you?