Nice to see someone did their homework !! The only thing missing, I'd say, is add mixtures to the concrete, if you wanted to go all out on strength. Some hydrator, AKA plasticizer, which reduces the amount of water needed for same flow. So many add too much water which weakens the concrete. I'd also suggest basalt fiber... looks like cotton baton, but really boosts strength. Indeed they make corrosion proof rebar from basalt also, or you could have opted for epoxy coated steel rebar. They say also to not let those stick out of the concrete on the bottom, because of water wicking, so I would have suggested suspending the rebar off the bottom by an inch or more. Maybe putting a grade or slight convex on top to help water & snow run off and not enter the concrete via the threaded studs. The fact that you wrapped it in plastic was a great idea, but not evident you did it for all the right reasons. The longer you can keep your concrete damp, the stronger it will get. That's why you see the pros spraying their concrete and covering it for a week or two. A lot of people make the mistake of putting their tube to the bottom , but it will only rot under ground and give the pier a half inch of flex. Great that you did not make that mistake. Also people will try and add some sort of bell, or base, at the bottom of the hole, thinking it will help it from sinking over time, but that means having to dig a bigger hole which in turn means your pier is supported in loose dirt on the sides which you don't want. Note the local ordinances always give specs for compacted vs loose soil for posts etc. You were right to pour it in a clean compact hole, no flared bottom or base. The sides of the holes are like 1000 strong hands supporting it from sinking, or frost heaves. You did not mention depth. One needs to consult maps, or local authorities, for frost line depth. In southern Ontario , it's 4 feet. Not sure what it is for your location. Good job !! Best on net I've seen !!
Thanks for sharing your experience Cliff, you are fortunate to have such a great place to pursue your hobby. Living on the edge of a city here in England with light pollution is a challenge. Well done.
Thank you for your kind comments! I do feel fortunate to live where I do but I also love to visit England and Wales -- Wales especially for dark skies.
Always prefer 3 supports instead of 4. This way, the mechanical stability towards horizontal setting is optimal. This is why Newton’s primary mirrors are designed with 3 collimation knobs, associated with 3 blocking ones.
What is the purpose of the 4 threaded bolts sticking up? Did you see that off another video or was it something you just made up? No part of the pier needs to be level you did know this correct? I say this because I too have a pier on my property and I don't have this type of setup. The only thing that matters is your mount being aligned to the NCP. My pier is about the same height as yours but mine goes into the ground 7.5 feet and is 36" in diamter with rebar, fiberglass mesh in the concrete and my pier above the ground is 12.7" in diamter steel tube with a wall thickness of .170". I take breath taking photo's of the heavens on windy nights or calm nights it makes no difference. I see this type of design all over TH-cam and I just don't understand why someone would take such a sturdy concrete pier and then put threaded rod at the top and ruin a great setup.
Hello -- sorry for the late reply. The threaded rod is there to hold the metal plate that my mount attaches to. It sounds like your pier is capable of handling a much heavier mount and telescope than I have. Still, somehow you have to connect your mount to the pier, and I couldn't figure out how to do that without putting in the threaded rods. Perhaps you can link to a photo of your pier so I can see how you did it? Regarding making the mount level... while it's true that in the end all that really matters is that you can polar align, I wanted the mount to be straight and level for cosmetic reasons too. Plus, having a level platform means that my declination setting matches my actual location, which is just easier to work with in my opinion. Thanks for your interest!
I've never worked with Sonotube before. Did you let the concrete in the ground partially cure before setting the Sonotube on top, or did you set the Sonotube on top of the hole and pour right after pouring concrete into the hole in the ground?
Thanks for the question. I think we let the concrete in the ground sit for a couple hours because it was a good time to take a break and figure out how we were going to hold the tube when we got around to filling it. But the pouring was all done on the same day and the concrete in the hole was still soft when we set the tube on it.
I loved this. A really good overview on how to construct a pier, with some subtle elements of humour in there - and I LOVED the music. 🙂
I enjoyed your video. Thanks for sharing.
Nice to see someone did their homework !! The only thing missing, I'd say, is add mixtures to the concrete, if you wanted to go all out on strength. Some hydrator, AKA plasticizer, which reduces the amount of water needed for same flow. So many add too much water which weakens the concrete. I'd also suggest basalt fiber... looks like cotton baton, but really boosts strength. Indeed they make corrosion proof rebar from basalt also, or you could have opted for epoxy coated steel rebar. They say also to not let those stick out of the concrete on the bottom, because of water wicking, so I would have suggested suspending the rebar off the bottom by an inch or more. Maybe putting a grade or slight convex on top to help water & snow run off and not enter the concrete via the threaded studs.
The fact that you wrapped it in plastic was a great idea, but not evident you did it for all the right reasons. The longer you can keep your concrete damp, the stronger it will get. That's why you see the pros spraying their concrete and covering it for a week or two.
A lot of people make the mistake of putting their tube to the bottom , but it will only rot under ground and give the pier a half inch of flex. Great that you did not make that mistake. Also people will try and add some sort of bell, or base, at the bottom of the hole, thinking it will help it from sinking over time, but that means having to dig a bigger hole which in turn means your pier is supported in loose dirt on the sides which you don't want. Note the local ordinances always give specs for compacted vs loose soil for posts etc. You were right to pour it in a clean compact hole, no flared bottom or base. The sides of the holes are like 1000 strong hands supporting it from sinking, or frost heaves.
You did not mention depth. One needs to consult maps, or local authorities, for frost line depth. In southern Ontario , it's 4 feet. Not sure what it is for your location.
Good job !! Best on net I've seen !!
I live just west of him. He went down 4 feet as well.
@@ronaldleedham4719 Yes I got 42 inches for London, Ontario from the Pro desk at Home Depot.
great video . thanks
Very interesting and great explanation of your project. You live at a wonderful place.
Thank you for sharing.
Sorry for the late reply. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and I agree that we're a bit spoiled here.
Nice job!
I am considering to build my own. This video helps a lot, specially the bottom frame. Thanks! Hope you enjoy your pier. CS!
Sorry for the late reply. Did you build one? How'd it go?
Thanks for sharing your experience Cliff, you are fortunate to have such a great place to pursue your hobby. Living on the edge of a city here in England with light pollution is a challenge. Well done.
Thank you for your kind comments! I do feel fortunate to live where I do but I also love to visit England and Wales -- Wales especially for dark skies.
That is a very nice view!! hope the pier is doing work!
The pier is doing fine but the clouds have been out all winter it seems. I'm sure the sky will clear soon and I can get back out there again!
Thank you for the in detail explanation!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very nice video and really good explained 👍👍
Thanks again!
Always prefer 3 supports instead of 4. This way, the mechanical stability towards horizontal setting is optimal. This is why Newton’s primary mirrors are designed with 3 collimation knobs, associated with 3 blocking ones.
Good point. I'll remember for the next one :)
What is the purpose of the 4 threaded bolts sticking up? Did you see that off another video or was it something you just made up? No part of the pier needs to be level you did know this correct? I say this because I too have a pier on my property and I don't have this type of setup. The only thing that matters is your mount being aligned to the NCP. My pier is about the same height as yours but mine goes into the ground 7.5 feet and is 36" in diamter with rebar, fiberglass mesh in the concrete and my pier above the ground is 12.7" in diamter steel tube with a wall thickness of .170". I take breath taking photo's of the heavens on windy nights or calm nights it makes no difference. I see this type of design all over TH-cam and I just don't understand why someone would take such a sturdy concrete pier and then put threaded rod at the top and ruin a great setup.
Hello -- sorry for the late reply. The threaded rod is there to hold the metal plate that my mount attaches to. It sounds like your pier is capable of handling a much heavier mount and telescope than I have. Still, somehow you have to connect your mount to the pier, and I couldn't figure out how to do that without putting in the threaded rods. Perhaps you can link to a photo of your pier so I can see how you did it? Regarding making the mount level... while it's true that in the end all that really matters is that you can polar align, I wanted the mount to be straight and level for cosmetic reasons too. Plus, having a level platform means that my declination setting matches my actual location, which is just easier to work with in my opinion. Thanks for your interest!
@@cliffnieuwenhuis8638 My pier weighs 7,500 lbs and is 7.5 feet deep in the ground.
I've never worked with Sonotube before. Did you let the concrete in the ground partially cure before setting the Sonotube on top, or did you set the Sonotube on top of the hole and pour right after pouring concrete into the hole in the ground?
Thanks for the question. I think we let the concrete in the ground sit for a couple hours because it was a good time to take a break and figure out how we were going to hold the tube when we got around to filling it. But the pouring was all done on the same day and the concrete in the hole was still soft when we set the tube on it.
Why the loud music?
The music….really 🙉
seriously? no one commented on 4:05-4:10?? slow down video if you need to, but looks like a gopher comes out of the hole in front of him LOL
I looked and looked but didn't see it. I think you see a leaf flipping up in the wind. Thanks for watching!
@@cliffnieuwenhuis8638 You are correct sir .. I just looked and it's a leaf now. LOL .. Kids .. don't do drugs...
Music way to loud