Thanks for the information about running electric to different parts of your layout still confused after watching this very great video on power blocks Thanks for sharing this video please keep your videos coming very interesting and informative video
wow that takes me back to the days of my first real layout. I too had 5 blocks but I used 5 tyco power packs. thanks for sharing the basics, yet complexed part of dc
Awesome video, I appreciate how you simplified the tutorial to make it very easy for my family to understand what we are about to start to create :) I have uncovered all my old trains ranging from 30 years to about 10 years ago when I thought I had the time. Now with kids its seems are great time to start'r up ... eventually introducing DCC once we get the foundation of DC running trains. Any suggestions are welcome and I'll look for more vids too.
Thanks Chris! So glad I could help. If you’ve seen my recent videos, that DC layout is no more and now I’m tackling DCC. Very exciting times starting up a train set especially with kids. If your children are very young and are like my nephews, make sure your trains can’t fall off the table! Those boys like to run them full throttle! Another suggestion, if you have the room, have two tracks so that two trains can run without smashing each other. That’s one regret I had with the old layout and now I have two. Two kids, two trains, no fights. It means two controllers, but you buy some second hand ones for cheap. If it’s for the kids, buy some cheap plastic kits that snap together. Depending on their age, most take glue and require a lot of patience. You can also get a lot of interactive rolling stock that load and unload. Very fun for kids. The more buttons and switches, the more fun. Lights, turnouts, bells, etc. Making the mountain and tunnel was a lot of fun and easy for kids too. In my opinion, if you take it too serious, your kids might lose interest. It all depends on what stage they’re at. Good luck! If you post some videos, let me know. I’d love to hear how things are going. Thanks for the sub! -Mark
I just watched Tom's video that this video was in. I'm getting back into the hobby and want to start and finish. Since I have space now. I became a ham radio operator in 98 and still living at my parents house I had a choice trains or radios. Well I chose radios. This is quite helpful explaining blocks. I have a book and they touched on block wiring using a toggle switch, but using the selector is easier.
Thanks for watching Chris! I’m glad you found this video helpful. This DC layout is no longer running but I wish it was. I still get a lot of views on these videos. I’d love to update them. I have a better camera and know some better editing techniques. Good luck with the layout!
I am preparing to build my first ever model railroad layout, so I am completely new to all of this. I've searched for answers to these questions and cannot find it anywhere: > what happens if the locomotive you're controlling stops over the gap between two blocks, so pick-up wheels are straddling the plastic joiner on both sides (pick-up wheels are touching rail on both sides of gap) and 2 different controllers are connected to each block (cab A controls block 1 and cab B controls block 2)? > if you stop your locomotive just prior to the gap between 2 blocks and then switch the cab from controlling block 1 to controlling block 2 your locomotive would not function since you're now controlling the second block -- so the cab would need to be connected to both blocks until your locomotive completely exits the first block and enters the second (and then cab can be disconnected from that first block)? So if a person wishes to operate 2 locomotives there would need to be an empty block between occupied blocks...does the confusing manner I've described it sound like I have the basic idea correct? (I think I have confused myself trying to phrase it properly, and hope you understand what I'm asking). I realize that a lot of these 'issues' can be overcome by using DCC, but I refuse to pay the outrageous over-inflated prices being charged by model railroading companies for DCC equipment. Thank you for making these videos to help others learn to set-up a model railroad layout. Liked/subscribed.
Hi, thanks for the kind words and questions. I’m no expert that’s for sure. Unlike you, I ditched DC and hopped on the DCC band wagon. Although I do miss my DC set up. I never really had a chance to try out my block system. It was a small layout but I wanted to see if I could do it. To answer your first question, I never came across the “gap” problem. But I think your second question might solve that issue. I think you do need an empty block between the two occupied blocks. It’s been awhile now, but I remember when I first set the blocks up, it worked well in my head, but then when I ran trains it was a gong show because like you mentioned, trains entered another block and it was either off or controlled by the other operator, etc. You really have to run some imaginary operations and some dry runs before you start wiring. I wish you all the best luck. It’s a lot of fun. Trial and error. I do miss my DC layout and if I had the room I would definitely consider making another one. -Mark
Nice video guys! I prefer to solder wire onto the bottom of the rail joiner and drill a hole for each, but the inside works too! Man, DC is really interesting. I really like how it's coming along.
Great tutorial Mark. Love the sound fx and the voice! Wow, I forgot what running on DC was like with multiple blocks. I still use it on the living room floor under the Christmas tree. Can't wait to lay some more track. Tom
I going to be building a Z scale layout over the course of the next several months (maybe shorter). I will be using DC. However, I will be gaping both rails as I plan to have 2 trains running in opposite directions on occasion. As far as I know, I feel the common rail will cause a short out if one cab reverses polarity while the other cab is in use
M&M Rails I've given the common rail wiring a try and was amazed that it works. I was still able to run 2 locomotives in opposite directions at the same time as if both rails were gapped. I wired the 2 cabs according to the instructions and it worked flawlessly. This means I will go the common rail route after all. Which means I can use Atlas selectors. I find the whole thing mind blowing
hi Mark... been a while since I've use DC.. bring back memories... if you had a soldering iron you could make your own terminal joiners... i think Atlas may have th signals & controllers for them.. i used then on my previous layout.. thanks for the shout out & thanks for sharing.. vinny
Well, first of all, I enjoyed your video. Now, I need some clarification on the following: I have a single oval (how exciting), and created two blocks I think so) my outside rail ( called A) have two terminal wires and a single straight with a ordered wire that is connected to slot 1 on my atlas 215. My question is do the insulators go on A, or on B? Thank you again for the video.
Hi Kevin. Glad you enjoyed the video. I can hardly watch those old videos anymore. Blurry and too long. I wish I still had that layout because I would love to redo this video. We all have to start somewhere! My brother and I started with an oval. I had to rewatch this to refresh my memory. Try this, and let me know if it doesn’t work: Both rails need power. You have to decide which rail (A or B) will be your gap rail and which one will have constant power. The gap rail, which will have the insulated joiner, it’s power line goes to the 215 switch. The other wire goes to the main power I believe. So I guess in your case, the insulator goes on rail A. I hope I made it clearer. Don’t be shy to reply again. I really enjoyed this project and I hope one day to have grandkids so I can do it all over again with them! Haha.
Thank you. This is DC which means the track controls all the locomotives on it. If you go fast, they all go fast, if you go slow, they all go slow. With blocks, one controller can run a loco slow in one block, while another controller can run another train fast in another block. Blocks are sections. It wasn’t ideal on my 4x8, but it would work better on a bigger layout.
Can short circuit happen when two consequent blocks are turned on? I.e when train, passing by isolated joint closes the circuits of different blocks by its wheels?
I don’t think it will short. I’m pretty sure I kept all my blocks open at one point so that the train could run around the track. If you wire your track incorrectly then you’ll experience shorting. Atlas has a great basic wiring guide that I followed. Fool proof.
@@MMRails Thanks, I also mean the situation - when multiple power sources are used on layout, to control trains with different speeds. So, when a train passes through an "isolating joint" it can close the circuit or two separate power sources for a second; similar to situation "why phase gaps exist" on real railroad. Do you think modelers bother with having multiple sources on DC layout?
@@GoshaBrooklyn Ooh, good question. I’m not sure. Unfortunately I never really had a chance to experiment with my block set up. My brother and I never ran two trains together. I set up the blocks to challenge myself really. I’m not much help when it comes to advanced railroading. :)
@@MMRails Honestly, I am newbie. I used to play around with train, I have Bachman tracks for 15 years, and had some Bachman engine, which simply doesn't move. Recently I bought DCC Ready Atlas engine, and resumed by experiments. as of real railroad - used to live next to it in my childhood, before immigration.
That’s way over my pay grade. Not sure. If you check out Tom’s Trains and Things and leave a comment or send him an email he might have an answer. I wish I knew because I would love signals as well. -Mark
Now let's say that I want to install a simple block signal, red/green between each block. Is it possible to wire the LEDs to the track without relays and everything else? I'm not interested in block detection. Just assume that the polarity in that track would be enough to allow me in doing so. Any suggestion?
Jefferson Aleman My suggestion is that you ask Tom from Tom’s Trains and Things. He’s going to post a video soon about this subject. Let me know if you want me to forward him your question. I’d love to have lights on my layout but I’m not sure how to do it yet, sorry. -Mark
Jefferson Aleman Tom’s reply: It can be done but it will only indicate the direction of travel as long as there is power to the block. Once you shut off power, the LED's will not light unless you wire it in a different manner. But then, it's wired for power on and off but not both situations.
M&M Rails Thanks very much! I think that the first option is good enough for what I have in mind. I may put a signal facing each direction just in between the blocks. Gotta experiment a little.
M&M Rails I tried a few combinations and this is the result th-cam.com/video/jg2FQWR11nU/w-d-xo.html ... I've installed five of this so far. I have ten blocks for now so as soon as I receive more in the mail, I'll do the rest. I'm building a small 2x7 module and planning to expand it to a full room one of this days. Thanks for the tips!
I’m so confused! How come the Diesel engine in the intro sounds like a steam locomotive? Couldn’t you have used a different color for block 4 like green instead of using a color so close to the other first block? Does all of this only apply if it’s only your brother running the other train? Soooo many numbers and letters… I’m doing something wrong, I have only powered my engines, not my boxcars, as illustrated. You married really well, she has a funny voice but she knew everything about trains and track. Lol. The second transformer, was that 2B or not 2B?
Skip to 5:38 for the how-to.
Thanks for the information about running electric to different parts of your layout still confused after watching this very great video on power blocks Thanks for sharing this video please keep your videos coming very interesting and informative video
Reading the Atlas wiring book is the way to go. Very informative.
Train guys are such nice people...you seem like such a great guy
gacj2010 Again, thanks a lot. I’ve met many TH-camrs who model trains and so far they’re all great people. We all have patience. :)
wow that takes me back to the days of my first real layout. I too had 5 blocks but I used 5 tyco power packs. thanks for sharing the basics, yet complexed part of dc
sparky107107 And the funny thing is, all that work and my brother and I rarely run trains together. -Mark
Your explanation was super relevant to my current project and was very helpful. Thank you!
So glad to hear! Happy to help.
Awesome video, I appreciate how you simplified the tutorial to make it very easy for my family to understand what we are about to start to create :) I have uncovered all my old trains ranging from 30 years to about 10 years ago when I thought I had the time. Now with kids its seems are great time to start'r up ... eventually introducing DCC once we get the foundation of DC running trains. Any suggestions are welcome and I'll look for more vids too.
Thanks Chris! So glad I could help. If you’ve seen my recent videos, that DC layout is no more and now I’m tackling DCC.
Very exciting times starting up a train set especially with kids. If your children are very young and are like my nephews, make sure your trains can’t fall off the table! Those boys like to run them full throttle!
Another suggestion, if you have the room, have two tracks so that two trains can run without smashing each other. That’s one regret I had with the old layout and now I have two. Two kids, two trains, no fights. It means two controllers, but you buy some second hand ones for cheap.
If it’s for the kids, buy some cheap plastic kits that snap together. Depending on their age, most take glue and require a lot of patience. You can also get a lot of interactive rolling stock that load and unload. Very fun for kids. The more buttons and switches, the more fun. Lights, turnouts, bells, etc.
Making the mountain and tunnel was a lot of fun and easy for kids too.
In my opinion, if you take it too serious, your kids might lose interest. It all depends on what stage they’re at.
Good luck! If you post some videos, let me know. I’d love to hear how things are going. Thanks for the sub! -Mark
I just watched Tom's video that this video was in. I'm getting back into the hobby and want to start and finish. Since I have space now. I became a ham radio operator in 98 and still living at my parents house I had a choice trains or radios. Well I chose radios. This is quite helpful explaining blocks. I have a book and they touched on block wiring using a toggle switch, but using the selector is easier.
Thanks for watching Chris! I’m glad you found this video helpful. This DC layout is no longer running but I wish it was. I still get a lot of views on these videos. I’d love to update them. I have a better camera and know some better editing techniques. Good luck with the layout!
I am preparing to build my first ever model railroad layout, so I am completely new to all of this. I've searched for answers to these questions and cannot find it anywhere:
> what happens if the locomotive you're controlling stops over the gap between two blocks, so pick-up wheels are straddling the plastic joiner on both sides (pick-up wheels are touching rail on both sides of gap) and 2 different controllers are connected to each block (cab A controls block 1 and cab B controls block 2)?
> if you stop your locomotive just prior to the gap between 2 blocks and then switch the cab from controlling block 1 to controlling block 2 your locomotive would not function since you're now controlling the second block -- so the cab would need to be connected to both blocks until your locomotive completely exits the first block and enters the second (and then cab can be disconnected from that first block)? So if a person wishes to operate 2 locomotives there would need to be an empty block between occupied blocks...does the confusing manner I've described it sound like I have the basic idea correct? (I think I have confused myself trying to phrase it properly, and hope you understand what I'm asking).
I realize that a lot of these 'issues' can be overcome by using DCC, but I refuse to pay the outrageous over-inflated prices being charged by model railroading companies for DCC equipment.
Thank you for making these videos to help others learn to set-up a model railroad layout. Liked/subscribed.
Hi, thanks for the kind words and questions. I’m no expert that’s for sure. Unlike you, I ditched DC and hopped on the DCC band wagon. Although I do miss my DC set up. I never really had a chance to try out my block system. It was a small layout but I wanted to see if I could do it.
To answer your first question, I never came across the “gap” problem. But I think your second question might solve that issue. I think you do need an empty block between the two occupied blocks. It’s been awhile now, but I remember when I first set the blocks up, it worked well in my head, but then when I ran trains it was a gong show because like you mentioned, trains entered another block and it was either off or controlled by the other operator, etc. You really have to run some imaginary operations and some dry runs before you start wiring.
I wish you all the best luck. It’s a lot of fun. Trial and error. I do miss my DC layout and if I had the room I would definitely consider making another one. -Mark
Nice video guys! I prefer to solder wire onto the bottom of the rail joiner and drill a hole for each, but the inside works too! Man, DC is really interesting. I really like how it's coming along.
Daveh88 Thanks for the comment Dave. Maybe I'll ask Santa for a soldering iron. -Mark
Great tutorial Mark. Love the sound fx and the voice! Wow, I forgot what running on DC was like with multiple blocks. I still use it on the living room floor under the Christmas tree. Can't wait to lay some more track.
Tom
Toms Trains and Things Thanks Tom. Always appreciate your comments. -Mark
Any time Mark
Really clear and helpful video. Thanks for sharing your i8nsights!
Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful.
Hey m&m ..you are the best guy for explaining this ...you must be a teacher or should be .... I love you man ....So great
gacj2010 Thank you very much. Nice of you to say. I am a teacher actually. High school. -Mark
I too teach high school as well (h.s.biology) ..and love it as do you ... funny to be able to recognize the skills :)
I going to be building a Z scale layout over the course of the next several months (maybe shorter). I will be using DC. However, I will be gaping both rails as I plan to have 2 trains running in opposite directions on occasion. As far as I know, I feel the common rail will cause a short out if one cab reverses polarity while the other cab is in use
ZScaleRay Good luck and all the best. I look forward to your progress. I don’t think I follow any Z scale modellers. -Mark
M&M Rails I've given the common rail wiring a try and was amazed that it works. I was still able to run 2 locomotives in opposite directions at the same time as if both rails were gapped. I wired the 2 cabs according to the instructions and it worked flawlessly.
This means I will go the common rail route after all. Which means I can use Atlas selectors. I find the whole thing mind blowing
hi Mark... been a while since I've use DC.. bring back memories... if you had a soldering iron you could make your own terminal joiners... i think Atlas may have th signals & controllers for them.. i used then on my previous layout.. thanks for the shout out & thanks for sharing.. vinny
bnsf6951 Thanks Vinny. I looked into the Atlas signals. Now I just have to find someone who sells them at a reasonable price. -Mark
it's been about 5 years since I've used them... good luck!!!
Very nice expansion Mark, especially for individuals entering the hobby that don't want to spend on DCC. By the your assistant sounds hot lol.
Thanks Peter!
Well done video. You and your brother should do a video on how it works. Let's see some trains run!!
That's not a bad idea. Thanks for watching and the suggestion.
I like your setup, you can use Waco wire connections, for 6 wires you twist together 🤪
Haha, thanks Martin. Unfortunately this layout no longer exists. Good tip though.
Well, first of all, I enjoyed your video. Now, I need some clarification on the following: I have a single oval (how exciting), and created two blocks I think so) my outside rail ( called A) have two terminal wires and a single straight with a ordered wire that is connected to slot 1 on my atlas 215. My question is do the insulators go on A, or on B? Thank you again for the video.
Hi Kevin. Glad you enjoyed the video. I can hardly watch those old videos anymore. Blurry and too long. I wish I still had that layout because I would love to redo this video.
We all have to start somewhere! My brother and I started with an oval. I had to rewatch this to refresh my memory. Try this, and let me know if it doesn’t work:
Both rails need power. You have to decide which rail (A or B) will be your gap rail and which one will have constant power. The gap rail, which will have the insulated joiner, it’s power line goes to the 215 switch. The other wire goes to the main power I believe. So I guess in your case, the insulator goes on rail A.
I hope I made it clearer. Don’t be shy to reply again. I really enjoyed this project and I hope one day to have grandkids so I can do it all over again with them! Haha.
yea need the signalling. else your train will just run into a block potentially controlled by someone else. right?
David A Correct. Many times I’ve driven my train into another block and lost control of it. It’s not a perfect system.
Good vid. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Tibor!
I like your video however I am still a bit confused about the whole process the reason why we make it into blocks is because of power drop?
Thank you. This is DC which means the track controls all the locomotives on it. If you go fast, they all go fast, if you go slow, they all go slow. With blocks, one controller can run a loco slow in one block, while another controller can run another train fast in another block. Blocks are sections. It wasn’t ideal on my 4x8, but it would work better on a bigger layout.
So you attach the rail joiners to the atlas controller which is powered by the transformer?
Will it be ok, just to remove metal joined and do not install plastics? I.e. to have air gaps?
I think you might be ok with the air gaps. Friends of mine do it that way and it seems to work.
I don't have any spade connectors as the hobby shop was out of stock. What else can I use to connect my 2 atlas selector boxes?
You could probably wire them together. It’s not as neat and tidy but it should work.
Can short circuit happen when two consequent blocks are turned on? I.e when train, passing by isolated joint closes the circuits of different blocks by its wheels?
I don’t think it will short. I’m pretty sure I kept all my blocks open at one point so that the train could run around the track. If you wire your track incorrectly then you’ll experience shorting. Atlas has a great basic wiring guide that I followed. Fool proof.
@@MMRails Thanks, I also mean the situation - when multiple power sources are used on layout, to control trains with different speeds. So, when a train passes through an "isolating joint" it can close the circuit or two separate power sources for a second; similar to situation "why phase gaps exist" on real railroad. Do you think modelers bother with having multiple sources on DC layout?
@@GoshaBrooklyn Ooh, good question. I’m not sure. Unfortunately I never really had a chance to experiment with my block set up. My brother and I never ran two trains together. I set up the blocks to challenge myself really. I’m not much help when it comes to advanced railroading. :)
@@MMRails Honestly, I am newbie. I used to play around with train, I have Bachman tracks for 15 years, and had some Bachman engine, which simply doesn't move. Recently I bought DCC Ready Atlas engine, and resumed by experiments. as of real railroad - used to live next to it in my childhood, before immigration.
How can I connect my signals to this block system
That’s way over my pay grade. Not sure. If you check out Tom’s Trains and Things and leave a comment or send him an email he might have an answer. I wish I knew because I would love signals as well. -Mark
Now let's say that I want to install a simple block signal, red/green between each block. Is it possible to wire the LEDs to the track without relays and everything else? I'm not interested in block detection. Just assume that the polarity in that track would be enough to allow me in doing so. Any suggestion?
Jefferson Aleman My suggestion is that you ask Tom from Tom’s Trains and Things. He’s going to post a video soon about this subject. Let me know if you want me to forward him your question. I’d love to have lights on my layout but I’m not sure how to do it yet, sorry. -Mark
M&M Rails Yes please!
Jefferson Aleman Tom’s reply: It can be done but it will only indicate the direction of travel as long as there is power to the block. Once you shut off power, the LED's will not light unless you wire it in a different manner. But then, it's wired for power on and off but not both situations.
M&M Rails Thanks very much! I think that the first option is good enough for what I have in mind. I may put a signal facing each direction just in between the blocks. Gotta experiment a little.
M&M Rails I tried a few combinations and this is the result th-cam.com/video/jg2FQWR11nU/w-d-xo.html ... I've installed five of this so far. I have ten blocks for now so as soon as I receive more in the mail, I'll do the rest. I'm building a small 2x7 module and planning to expand it to a full room one of this days. Thanks for the tips!
I'm totally. Confused as I'm not electricity smart I rather do mechanical work than electric work
Lots more videos online that may be helpful.
The soldering process I would not be good at
I didn’t think I would be good at soldering either, but it’s easier than you think. And not always necessary.
Good info!
~Deryk
DG Modelworks Thanks for the comment Deryk. -Mark
I’m so confused! How come the Diesel engine in the intro sounds like a steam locomotive? Couldn’t you have used a different color for block 4 like green instead of using a color so close to the other first block? Does all of this only apply if it’s only your brother running the other train? Soooo many numbers and letters… I’m doing something wrong, I have only powered my engines, not my boxcars, as illustrated. You married really well, she has a funny voice but she knew everything about trains and track. Lol. The second transformer, was that 2B or not 2B?
I don’t even know what questions to answer here. You’re the only person to ever comment on the diesel sounding like a steam. Too funny.
Here again 🤣!
I don’t think these work for N scale. Hahahaha. You need smaller ones. 😉
So now you need to do a video on a reversing loop.
I wish. Out of my league. Check out Tom’s Trains and Things. He knows his stuff.
Not a good lesson. Don’t need to each connection. Suggest edit to shorter with accent on 215
Thanks for the feedback.
I have a better plan... Buy a used NCC Powercab and sell the Atlas controllers on eBay. Once you use DCC you will wonder why you bothered.
pmsteamrailroading Hahaha! So I’m told. I’m currently working on a DCC setup. Can’t wait to compare the two.