@@NordicRC Hello Mikael, is the wltoys a979b any good out of the box? I heard some people saying that the gear boxes were broken after a few minutes...
Very interesting Mikael! There are some quirky design issues with these little RCs! Step-screws would sort out the suspension binding issues, if you could find the correct fit. And I think there must be a simple way to make those shocks actually provide some damping, maybe just using some really thick oil to slow those metal pistons down? I had a similar issue with some Turnigy shocks I bought - initially I used the Tamiya soft damper oil I had = no damping at all! I got some 1000 weight oil, poured it in and - perfect! A shock with small damping holes and thin oil performs similarly to a shock with bigger damping holes and thick oil. The other bonus of using thick oil is it is less likely to escape past the shock seals. Nice comparison and before/after shots! Enjoyed this mate - thumbs up my friend ;D
Thanks, Mark. Ahh, yeah. I regretted not trying out some even harder oil, as soon as I saw the result. Hopefully I got some more A959s coming in so I think I will try it on those. Good to hear it actually works. Never had any luck myself, switching oils. For me fine tuning the piston and springs brings immidiate results. But thanks for the tip. Think I will try some hard oil :-)
Nice comparison and tips Mikael. As for the screws I read on a Tamiya forum some people suggesting the use of super glue. They reckon it does not have any affect on the plastic and acts like thread-lock. I haven't tried it as yet myself though.
Yeah, it actually works fine. I have only used it to re-tread some servo mounts, but those hold up fine. Maybe it could be a good idea with this one too. To tighten the thread. Thanks for the suggestion, Rob.
Got my self the a959b got some shock oil for the standard shocks I have atm got the front ls feeling good it’s dampening nice but the rear still feels the same and that’s me using 80wt shock oil. What am I doing wrong someone please shed some light . Thanks
Yeah, what I learned doing this was that the oil was too thin for those screwhead-pistons. I would definitely use something like 800, 900 or 10009 next time.
@@NordicRC does 10009 shock oil even exist? If so the spring force on an a959 probably isn't enough to uncompress after the shock has been compressed because it has to push all that oil and it's so thick LOL 😂
@@silviamills5218 I guess when you go above 1000 it is rated as differential silicone oil and not shock silicone oil. You can actually get differential oil up to 100.000 :-)
Thanks for the advice! Yeah, just got a load of new hard oil, I will try out on my new A959’s (see new video series in my channel). Hope it will work out better than this try with too soft oil ☺️
Nice! I just re-build my Dark Impact once again. Put it back to stock conditions, stock parts and a brushed Tamiya motor. Used some of it’s upgrades for my new brushless DF-03MS. Video series coming up sometime in the future. So much footage to edit down into shorter versions 😄
The shock pistons must letting too much oil passed. Having to keep tightening screws that is a bore and had a issue like yours that you can over do that so things bind.
Yeah, exactely. The small screw heads doesn’t really work like a good piston. But it’s always a bit harder to start experimenting with these kind of pistons. Tamiya does it too sometimes. Don’t know why. Maybe a lot cheaper than a changable piston head. And yes, no way getting around tightening screws after a run with these. Sadly they have to be quite loose, if one wants them not to bind.
Just an idea... Is there the possibility to put a washer below those screw heads in the pistons? Maybe trying different washer sizes you'll find the one letting the right amount of gap to make the oil actually do its work...
I just got one of these. First use awesome!! Went to use it a second time as in the next day and it broken. Only have steering no drive at all... I guessed for a cheapie I’d get a year not 10mins
Levers? The spacers? They are just there to compress the springs a bit. It's called preload. You fine tune your springs to make them harder to compress, to raise the rear a bit (because the rear usually gets a lot of power and compress a lot with the throttle). Many have a harder preload on the rear than in the front. And congrats! Hope you will have fun with it!
Yeah, that's the way to go I discovered when doing this video and receiving great comments with the tip. Already got plans for a video trying out some harder oil, like #1000. Hopefully it will work :-)
Ah all that effort and the dampers are still rubbish 🙁 Don't think that the pistons fit very well. I was watching this as my neighbour was asking me to recommend an RC for her 7 year old son. I thought about this but can't imagine a kid keeping up with the maintenance. Might be too quick anyway. Will go and look at those cheap crawlers you were reviewing before. Are they reliable? Anyway informative vid thanks mate 😀
Ahh, yeah, but I was just having fun, checking if thise actually where oil filled shocks. Didn't expect wonders. If I ever open them again, I will try some real real heavy oil, as others suggested it. That might compensate for the little screw-head-piston. Nahh, I don't think these are for the very young ones. Although mine has held up fine, I imagine that a wrong turn into a curb will break something with +50 kph. And +50 will maybe also break a kid. Huh. I would recommend these for 14+ years. It's the same with the WPL crawlers, I take it it is those you are referring to. Mine has not broken, and my 3 year old has had a lot of fun with them. But they are not the greatest quality, so they will probably eventually brake. So I would only recommend those to kids who have parents willing to have fun fixing them :-)
re hi de france, what would you advise me as small rc 1/16, 1/18, for a small garden? i hesitate between a95B9 / 969B and 979B, which one would be best, or what other models would you advise me?
Hi friend! For me, for a small garden, I wouldn't pick one of these WLToys. They are too fast and small and frankly, runs better on flat surfaces than real off road. In my humble opinion. I'm not sure what would be the greatest garden basher. I actually use 1/10 Tamiya WR-01 and WT-01 Monster Trucks for my very small garden. They are cheap, and very low geared, so plenty of torque and limited top speed. But that's sort of a nerdy Tamiya enthusiast Monster Truck-thing:-) I suspect that there's better and more modern 1/16 and 1/18 scales. Or maybe some of the low geared 1/12 scale buggies/desert trucks from WLToys, HBS etc. But you could always try one of the WLToys A9X9. They are cheap and if they doesn't work out in the garden you can always take them to the streets and try another for the garden.
I bought the buggy model for my son, and shortly thereafter the plastic "A frame" in the front, that holds the front wheel suspension up, broke. I tried supergluing it, but it didn't hold up upon driving. Is it worth it to try and get a replacement part, or do you think the car is totaled?
What you think about metal version of WLToys A9*9? I will create metal monster from scratch with simple brushless motor. Maybe JLB J3Speed is more reasonable and universal?
I think the all metal upgraded WLToys projects I’ve seen look like fun projects. But I don’t think it will add more durability or capabilities to the car. More likely it slows the car down (+ weight) and decreases the durability (metal will bend, plastic is flexible). I got an upgrade series coming on the A959. Don’t think I will be upgrading a lot to metal. Maybe a few parts. I will do a mild brushless upgrade too. About the JLB, I have no personal experience, sorry I couldn’t help more. But all metal upgrades are a lot of fun ☺️
Thanks for watching and all the comments, Simon! After this test with the soft oil, I recommend getting some much harder. Like the Tamiya #1000 hard damper oil, or something similar hard oil.
I’m looking at this and the HBX rampage. I’m leaning towards this because of the upgrades, but I like the wheels on the HBX better, haha!I know, that’s kinda lame.
The rampage looks very nice too. If I remember correctly it comes stock with a low voltage battery though. One of the nice things with these are the stock LiPo battery. And nothing lame about liking wheels better than others. They are a quite essential cool-ness factor on cars 😃
That could be cool, yes. You can always just start with the stock battery, and then after a few runs you can see what you would like to upgrade or not.
Will Traxxas 10K work for shock oil? New to more hobby-level rc cars and know nothing of shock oils, but I have spare 10K for my Rubik's Cubes and just barely ordered this rc car! :)
It should definitely be a lot harder than the oil I tried here. I am not familiar with Traxxas' terms, but I would go with some 1000# oil if I should do it again :-) Hope you will have fun with it, Isaac!
Uhh, at high speed my A979-B would never go straight too. It's hard to say how to repair it when not seeing the car. But check out the manual with the exploded parts and find a spare part.
@@kamilmanan4244 Ahh yeah, you mean for the upper arms? That upgrade are on my list too. And some toe-in on the front tires would sure help it make go straight. Although it would probably also put down the durability in jumps/crashes down a bit too, since the stock upper arms are quite flexible.
@@NordicRC yeah that one. apologize as I don't know the correct term for it. today is the car first run. it will steer left each time I use throttle. now I'm not sure whether it ran out of battery or the motor burnt. 😂
Yeah, these cars have a mind of their own when reaching top speed. One of the reasons I prefer the standard A959. More controllable. The B-versions has a very limited run time, caused by the high gearing and 540 motor (about 5-6 minutes). Maybe it was just the LiPo cut off on yours? Though the motor and ESC get’s really warm so there is always a potential for frying them.
We've had one of the monster truck ones for over 2 years now , I paid £40 delivered and it's been abused by my son and I , best car for the money I think , the only thing that's gone in 2 years was a oring in front shock split and my son went through a football net and it snapped the front u/j off the diff , new dog job done , it's done some serious work , been sunk in puddles by my son and been launched through the air every time it's used , nothing is a durable as these especially for the money
Yeah I was pretty astonished about the durability too, when I took these out. I’ve had a fair share of tumbles on tarmac and a lot of jumps (see my other videos with them) and nothing has broken yet :-)
@@NordicRC I think money wise you can't go wrong , I wanted to get my son into tamiyas like most of us started at , we bought one, built it together but it won't take the stick these will, these are on par with 1/8 nitro buggys strength wise , infact better , I saw a video of one on 3s lipo earlier and it was mental
Thank you for your informative video. I would have liked to see how they ran after that. You wasted too much time videoing you fiddling with it and sorting out its flaws and not enough time on showing everyone how it worked. Was it worth it?
@@NordicRC Thank you. The monster truck version seems to be too fast and spends a lot of time on their roof. I feel it is a waste of time making a monster truck that small so fast. Thank you again for your video. I know not to bother buying one of them.
Garbage is a strong negative word. All models should be compared to the price. The cheap ones (like this) are not for everybody, the expensive ones are not for everybody too. Wheel play and tightening of screws though, is a general issue for many models though, also some of the more expensive (which I have also tested). And many more expensive models come with friction shocks, so personally I prefer re-filling oil in oil filled shocks than buying new oil filled shocks. The oil needs to be a lot harder than the one I tested in this video though. But yes, every model is not for everybody 🙃
I think it’s exactly like that :-) Maybe it’s like a cool Chinese/Japanese symbol that people in the Western world have on their shirts, or wall, but have no clue what means. But since they plan to sell it all around the world I just don’t get why they don’t call up an English speaking friend and ask him of any ideas first. It’s hilarious :-)
I like the start of this video! This car should have been called the wltoys tazmainian devel!
Thanks! Got loads of run videos especially with the A959/A959-B in my channel. That's a very fitting nickname :-)
@@NordicRC Hello Mikael, is the wltoys a979b any good out of the box?
I heard some people saying that the gear boxes were broken after a few minutes...
Great in-depth review. I do love small scale rc. Wish these were more available in Canada...
Thanks, Daryl. It’s fun making these videos. Yeah, they are great fun for the price.
Try banggood
Great video i should be getting my 959-b in the mail today this will help to get her running like the motor with wheels that she is keep it up
Nice! Hope you will enjoy it! I've had a lot of fun with my different WLToys.
I love the way you compared one by one❤️
Thank you, Aaron!
Very interesting Mikael! There are some quirky design issues with these little RCs! Step-screws would sort out the suspension binding issues, if you could find the correct fit. And I think there must be a simple way to make those shocks actually provide some damping, maybe just using some really thick oil to slow those metal pistons down? I had a similar issue with some Turnigy shocks I bought - initially I used the Tamiya soft damper oil I had = no damping at all! I got some 1000 weight oil, poured it in and - perfect! A shock with small damping holes and thin oil performs similarly to a shock with bigger damping holes and thick oil. The other bonus of using thick oil is it is less likely to escape past the shock seals. Nice comparison and before/after shots! Enjoyed this mate - thumbs up my friend ;D
Thanks, Mark. Ahh, yeah. I regretted not trying out some even harder oil, as soon as I saw the result. Hopefully I got some more A959s coming in so I think I will try it on those. Good to hear it actually works. Never had any luck myself, switching oils. For me fine tuning the piston and springs brings immidiate results. But thanks for the tip. Think I will try some hard oil :-)
“Headphones” great decal
Ha ha, yeah 😂😅
Love these videos dude!
Keep 'em comin!
Thanks, Ben! Appreciate the nice feedback!
Nice comparison and tips Mikael. As for the screws I read on a Tamiya forum some people suggesting the use of super glue. They reckon it does not have any affect on the plastic and acts like thread-lock. I haven't tried it as yet myself though.
Yeah, it actually works fine. I have only used it to re-tread some servo mounts, but those hold up fine. Maybe it could be a good idea with this one too. To tighten the thread. Thanks for the suggestion, Rob.
Can u plz tell me whether the A979-b is waterproof nothing happens if the car is washed with water
I have heard people have trouble with it. I think 'splashproof' is a better term for this one than waterproof.
Oh ! Thanks for the answer one question plz
Is it compulsory that the shocks to be filled with oil
Some seem to have luck putting oil in the stock shocks. Some seem to leak ...
Oh ok thanks
Nice comparison y like the Cars and tecnólogy good video.😎👍
Thanks, Marcos!
Got my self the a959b got some shock oil for the standard shocks I have atm got the front ls feeling good it’s dampening nice but the rear still feels the same and that’s me using 80wt shock oil. What am I doing wrong someone please shed some light . Thanks
What thickness shock oil? Kevin Talbot uses it really thick 800 or 1000. His don't seem to bounce around a lot.
Yeah, what I learned doing this was that the oil was too thin for those screwhead-pistons. I would definitely use something like 800, 900 or 10009 next time.
Not 10009, but 1000 :-9
@@NordicRC does 10009 shock oil even exist? If so the spring force on an a959 probably isn't enough to uncompress after the shock has been compressed because it has to push all that oil and it's so thick LOL 😂
@@silviamills5218 I guess when you go above 1000 it is rated as differential silicone oil and not shock silicone oil. You can actually get differential oil up to 100.000 :-)
@@NordicRC your spot on. They leak. Will change.
I did 800cst and it seems to work great
Thanks for the advice! Yeah, just got a load of new hard oil, I will try out on my new A959’s (see new video series in my channel). Hope it will work out better than this try with too soft oil ☺️
Hi, can the A979-B body shell fit on the A959-B.
Great stuff again. How do you know what I'm thinking of buying next?
You're spooky!! 😂😂
He he, well, it is Friday the 13th today ;-) Thanks for watching, buddy. I think the A959-B is great fun for the price.
Nordic RC Visions
I never realised, I'm staying in bed. 😱
👻 he he
Awesome thank you!
Thank you!
Reassembled the shocks the Tamiya way.
NICE!
Nice! I plan to try it out with some really hard oil the next time.
@@NordicRC
And whats going on with your df-03 darc Impact? I drove mine today with a new hobbywing quickrun combo. It drove crazy fast and stable.
Nice! I just re-build my Dark Impact once again. Put it back to stock conditions, stock parts and a brushed Tamiya motor. Used some of it’s upgrades for my new brushless DF-03MS. Video series coming up sometime in the future. So much footage to edit down into shorter versions 😄
The shock pistons must letting too much oil passed. Having to keep tightening screws that is a bore and had a issue like yours that you can over do that so things bind.
Yeah, exactely. The small screw heads doesn’t really work like a good piston. But it’s always a bit harder to start experimenting with these kind of pistons. Tamiya does it too sometimes. Don’t know why. Maybe a lot cheaper than a changable piston head. And yes, no way getting around tightening screws after a run with these. Sadly they have to be quite loose, if one wants them not to bind.
Just an idea... Is there the possibility to put a washer below those screw heads in the pistons? Maybe trying different washer sizes you'll find the one letting the right amount of gap to make the oil actually do its work...
That could be cool too. Just need a way to attach the washer securely. It needs to be very tightly secured behind the screw head.
Yep, I think that finding the perfect inner diameter of the washer is the key.
I just got one of these. First use awesome!! Went to use it a second time as in the next day and it broken. Only have steering no drive at all... I guessed for a cheapie I’d get a year not 10mins
Uhh. Doesn’t sound good.
Nope was pretty pissed off tbh. An all I got from the sell was post a video on TH-cam so our technical guys can see what’s happening
Mine does that a lot just charg batt and working fine
What are those little levers on the rear shocks? I just got one of these yesterday. (A959-B)
Levers? The spacers? They are just there to compress the springs a bit. It's called preload. You fine tune your springs to make them harder to compress, to raise the rear a bit (because the rear usually gets a lot of power and compress a lot with the throttle). Many have a harder preload on the rear than in the front. And congrats! Hope you will have fun with it!
@@NordicRC Thanks mate. Im just about to whack some 45wt losi oil in them, so see how it goes.
not sure wht the 45wt is (so many different kind of scales), but I will do it again in my new series, and use 1000# (hardest of the Tamiya scale).
Hello, can you do a video about putting the a979b body on the a959b? Thanks. Because i want to buy a a979 body for my a959.
That could be cool. Would love to if I can find the time. But basically all you need is A979 body mounts and an A979 body.
I use 1000cst oil in my a959-b, hardly bounces at all now! 👍
Yeah, that's the way to go I discovered when doing this video and receiving great comments with the tip. Already got plans for a video trying out some harder oil, like #1000. Hopefully it will work :-)
Can you please differentiate between the super cool rcs wltoys a979-b Vs Hbx thruster features
I think I tried to answer your question elsewhere :-) But Thanks a lot for watching, bro.
Ah all that effort and the dampers are still rubbish 🙁 Don't think that the pistons fit very well. I was watching this as my neighbour was asking me to recommend an RC for her 7 year old son. I thought about this but can't imagine a kid keeping up with the maintenance. Might be too quick anyway. Will go and look at those cheap crawlers you were reviewing before. Are they reliable? Anyway informative vid thanks mate 😀
Ahh, yeah, but I was just having fun, checking if thise actually where oil filled shocks. Didn't expect wonders. If I ever open them again, I will try some real real heavy oil, as others suggested it. That might compensate for the little screw-head-piston.
Nahh, I don't think these are for the very young ones. Although mine has held up fine, I imagine that a wrong turn into a curb will break something with +50 kph. And +50 will maybe also break a kid. Huh. I would recommend these for 14+ years.
It's the same with the WPL crawlers, I take it it is those you are referring to. Mine has not broken, and my 3 year old has had a lot of fun with them. But they are not the greatest quality, so they will probably eventually brake. So I would only recommend those to kids who have parents willing to have fun fixing them :-)
re hi de france, what would you advise me as small rc 1/16, 1/18, for a small garden? i hesitate between a95B9 / 969B and 979B, which one would be best, or what other models would you advise me?
Hi friend! For me, for a small garden, I wouldn't pick one of these WLToys. They are too fast and small and frankly, runs better on flat surfaces than real off road. In my humble opinion. I'm not sure what would be the greatest garden basher. I actually use 1/10 Tamiya WR-01 and WT-01 Monster Trucks for my very small garden. They are cheap, and very low geared, so plenty of torque and limited top speed. But that's sort of a nerdy Tamiya enthusiast Monster Truck-thing:-) I suspect that there's better and more modern 1/16 and 1/18 scales. Or maybe some of the low geared 1/12 scale buggies/desert trucks from WLToys, HBS etc. But you could always try one of the WLToys A9X9. They are cheap and if they doesn't work out in the garden you can always take them to the streets and try another for the garden.
Can a979-a(35kmph) be filled with oil?
Yeah, but you might need to work on the seals. They will most likely leak if not.
@@NordicRC thank you! I wonder i you could do comprasion similar to 958 but with 979
I bought the buggy model for my son, and shortly thereafter the plastic "A frame" in the front, that holds the front wheel suspension up, broke. I tried supergluing it, but it didn't hold up upon driving.
Is it worth it to try and get a replacement part, or do you think the car is totaled?
Repairs are just a normal part of the hobby. It all depends on how much, I. Time and money, it is worth to you. I repair my cars all the time.
What you think about metal version of WLToys A9*9? I will create metal monster from scratch with simple brushless motor. Maybe JLB J3Speed is more reasonable and universal?
I think the all metal upgraded WLToys projects I’ve seen look like fun projects. But I don’t think it will add more durability or capabilities to the car. More likely it slows the car down (+ weight) and decreases the durability (metal will bend, plastic is flexible). I got an upgrade series coming on the A959. Don’t think I will be upgrading a lot to metal. Maybe a few parts. I will do a mild brushless upgrade too. About the JLB, I have no personal experience, sorry I couldn’t help more. But all metal upgrades are a lot of fun ☺️
I have to do the same work to the shock absorbers of my beast what kind of oil do you recommend ????
Thanks for watching and all the comments, Simon! After this test with the soft oil, I recommend getting some much harder. Like the Tamiya #1000 hard damper oil, or something similar hard oil.
Which one more stabil on high speed?
In my experience, the A959.
Which is better?
Like if you think A979-B is better.
Comment if you think A959-B is better.
Hi JiJi! I think they are both great :-) For speed runs the A959-B is more stable though. Got some A969 and A979 coming up on the channel too.
@@NordicRC which is better in dirt.
I’m looking at this and the HBX rampage. I’m leaning towards this because of the upgrades, but I like the wheels on the HBX better, haha!I know, that’s kinda lame.
The rampage looks very nice too. If I remember correctly it comes stock with a low voltage battery though. One of the nice things with these are the stock LiPo battery. And nothing lame about liking wheels better than others. They are a quite essential cool-ness factor on cars 😃
Nordic RC Visions ok. So maybe I’ll get the rampage and upgrade the battery
That could be cool, yes. You can always just start with the stock battery, and then after a few runs you can see what you would like to upgrade or not.
Will Traxxas 10K work for shock oil? New to more hobby-level rc cars and know nothing of shock oils, but I have spare 10K for my Rubik's Cubes and just barely ordered this rc car! :)
It should definitely be a lot harder than the oil I tried here. I am not familiar with Traxxas' terms, but I would go with some 1000# oil if I should do it again :-) Hope you will have fun with it, Isaac!
Nice musicology
Thank you for watching!
my a979b front tires is a bit off, my car cannot go straight. how to repair it?
Uhh, at high speed my A979-B would never go straight too. It's hard to say how to repair it when not seeing the car. But check out the manual with the exploded parts and find a spare part.
@@NordicRC thanks for the reply. I've made some research on my own, I think I found the issue, need to use adjustable rod for the front tires. 😄
@@kamilmanan4244 Ahh yeah, you mean for the upper arms? That upgrade are on my list too. And some toe-in on the front tires would sure help it make go straight. Although it would probably also put down the durability in jumps/crashes down a bit too, since the stock upper arms are quite flexible.
@@NordicRC yeah that one. apologize as I don't know the correct term for it. today is the car first run. it will steer left each time I use throttle. now I'm not sure whether it ran out of battery or the motor burnt. 😂
Yeah, these cars have a mind of their own when reaching top speed. One of the reasons I prefer the standard A959. More controllable. The B-versions has a very limited run time, caused by the high gearing and 540 motor (about 5-6 minutes). Maybe it was just the LiPo cut off on yours? Though the motor and ESC get’s really warm so there is always a potential for frying them.
Which one more durable, especially jumping ?
See my other reply
We've had one of the monster truck ones for over 2 years now , I paid £40 delivered and it's been abused by my son and I , best car for the money I think , the only thing that's gone in 2 years was a oring in front shock split and my son went through a football net and it snapped the front u/j off the diff , new dog job done , it's done some serious work , been sunk in puddles by my son and been launched through the air every time it's used , nothing is a durable as these especially for the money
Yeah I was pretty astonished about the durability too, when I took these out. I’ve had a fair share of tumbles on tarmac and a lot of jumps (see my other videos with them) and nothing has broken yet :-)
@@NordicRC I think money wise you can't go wrong , I wanted to get my son into tamiyas like most of us started at , we bought one, built it together but it won't take the stick these will, these are on par with 1/8 nitro buggys strength wise , infact better , I saw a video of one on 3s lipo earlier and it was mental
Where to get her the oil
All proper RC hobby stores and online dealers have different damper oils. Just ask them 😃
can you reduce speed mechanically to let a 5 year old drive ?!
Not on these. But on the A-versions you can (WLToys A959-A or A979-A)
Or rather, not mechanically but on the transmitter (Throttle dual rate)
@@NordicRC was thinking of sicking a piece of wood in the throttle ;) to not make it go 100% ;)
@@NordicRC not knowing that Nordic RC Visions doing all WLToys reviews ;) --- looking forward to handle one ;) --- nevermind thx for answer
Thank you for your informative video. I would have liked to see how they ran after that. You wasted too much time videoing you fiddling with it and sorting out its flaws and not enough time on showing everyone how it worked. Was it worth it?
Tons of videos with them running on the channel …
@@NordicRC Thank you. The monster truck version seems to be too fast and spends a lot of time on their roof. I feel it is a waste of time making a monster truck that small so fast. Thank you again for your video. I know not to bother buying one of them.
I like the monster truck better, just like them over buggies
The MT is certainly cool looking! Thanks for watching, Steve.
Nice video! Very good job! New suscriber! Regards! LIKE
Thanks a lot bro!
What is the price
Check the links :-)
I think the bounciness in the rear is because of that bigass motor. Alot of weight
Hi Tiaan. Yeah I think you are right.
Siiii
"headphones"
ha ha, yeah, headphones. Hilarious :-)
Garbage, when I saw that insane amount of wheel play, bad shocks and the need to tighten those screws so often it's a big no-no for me... 😒
Garbage is a strong negative word. All models should be compared to the price. The cheap ones (like this) are not for everybody, the expensive ones are not for everybody too. Wheel play and tightening of screws though, is a general issue for many models though, also some of the more expensive (which I have also tested). And many more expensive models come with friction shocks, so personally I prefer re-filling oil in oil filled shocks than buying new oil filled shocks. The oil needs to be a lot harder than the one I tested in this video though. But yes, every model is not for everybody 🙃
better without the cack music
I dont get the headphones deal. Its like the Chinese just chose a random english word and smacked it on.
I think it’s exactly like that :-) Maybe it’s like a cool Chinese/Japanese symbol that people in the Western world have on their shirts, or wall, but have no clue what means. But since they plan to sell it all around the world I just don’t get why they don’t call up an English speaking friend and ask him of any ideas first. It’s hilarious :-)
Nordic RC Visions it is pretty funny like the orig nintendo games the japanese never proof-read
music over video sucks.