Using Plasterboard to Create an Air Barrier for your home.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2024
- Episode 2 - This video should be watched for information about the tail end of the Insulation Stage and Plaster Stage or retrofitting a new home to be more efficient when installing new joinery for a kitchen or a bathroom.
This is the 2nd of 3 videos in this series that provides training for trades and supervisors on how to apply insulation and plaster and airtight practices that complements the air barrier in residential buildings.
It is important to install plaster correctly to ensure it performs well as an air barrier and meets the quality performance measures required. Some key areas that are covered in this video are:
How do you build to ensure the home is air tight? (Ducted heating return, plaster stage, caulking, internal cavity sliders, airtight light fittings, termination of services, sealing plasterboard to the floor)
How do you ensure that the insulation is installed to support good comfort in an air-tight home? (Low expanding Spray foam around window and door frames, insulation and air-tightness above the ducted heating return, walls to the garage)
Energy efficient homes can provide homeowners with:
better quality homes that are naturally more comfortable in winter and summer.
significantly lower energy bills; and,
significantly reduced greenhouse gas emissions.
Homes can be tested to ensure it is built to meet the designed energy efficiency standard by using:
blower door tests; this test uses fans to simulate wind blowing against the building’s exterior to identify air leakages in the building’s envelope.
Thermal imaging; this is used in conjunction with blower door testing to locate missing or poorly installed insulation that may result in the movement of warm or cool air in and out of the building.
Independently testing and inspecting each home confirms compliance to the designed quality of energy efficiency inclusions.
00:00 Introduction
00:37 Plasterboard for Air Tightness
01:44 Plaster junction to the floor
02:40 Bulkhead Air Tightness
03:24 Ducted Heating return air plenum Air Leakage
06:49 Seal around windows
09:18 Internal Cavity Sliders
11:02 Outro
Producer: John Konstantakopoulos
Presenters: Joseph Cheung and Mark Pohlner
Useful links
Playlist of the whole series - • Sustainability Victori... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Finally, after many years, an Australian produced video on the topic of air-tightness!! Over 40 years ago, Canadian builders started using these building techniques and called it the ADA technique, or Airtight Drywall Approach. Efficiency Matrix is ,in my mind, one of Australia's best educators of the 'building as a system' . I am looking forward to more of the same. Well done!
Every tradie watching this telling themself "yeah but that takes too long" 🤣
Blower door testing and air sealing are under appreciated skills.
Excellent as always Efficiency Matrix. THIS IS A BUILDERS MUST WATCH!!!
Love your work Joseph. Clear and concise.
Gotta love that cost is no barrier to air-tightness. They are simple solutions using cheap, basic everyday products. No up-selling is what Efficiency Matrix seem to stand for. You may qualify as a Charity in some parts of the world. 👍
This is so true. However, I have to emphasize that using the plasterboard as the air barrier may not be applicable in climate other than National Construction Code (NCC) climate zone 6 and warmer part of zone 7 (which is the majority of Victoria, AUS). The mild temperate climate of Melbourne has only a low risk of in-cavity condensation as the new construction code requires vapour permeable membrane as the weather barrier (conventionally called sharking, locally). A dedicated vapour barrier is required in the colder part of climate zone 7 and the alpine region to mitigate in- cavity condensation.
The return box fix was most beneficial in all the DP I did.
Removing dirty wall cavity air entering our home and conditioned air leakage.
I capped it off with coreflute board and expanding foam.
Thanks to a previous video on return leakage.
Another great video that will give people knowledge to demand a higher level of craftsmanship from tradies and the industry that has ultimately delivered sub standard homes for decades.
Great video -- well explained and useful information.
Window and door installers need to update their skills.
Another great video!
Excellent tips and videos! thanks team!
Thanks for the air-tightness video, noticed however that the plaster was caulked to underlay, not the floor. This was obviously as it was a mock
up to show the detail and the plaster should be caulked to the floor then any underlay etc after the fact.
Hope that makes sense to anyone looking to achieve an air-tight seal from plaster to floor!!
Yes, the cement sheet is supposed to represent the concrete slab. 👍🏻. For these demos we didn’t want to put caulk on the floor finish. Sorry about the confusion.
The plaster needs to be caulked to concrete slab not any underlay. We used cement sheet so that we didn’t mess up the concrete slab where the mock up was made.
An energy efficient home is more comfortable and saves money in the long run.
Added insulation, triple glaze windows, energy efficient doors, energy efficient heating and cooling systems, energy efficient appliances, LED lighting, solar panels combined with battery storage and a electric vehicle charger in the garage or car park. People are too focused on the short term costs and miss out on long term savings.
Triple glazed maybe in alpine regions, otherwise not really required in most of Australia. There are a LOT of double glazed options available anyway.
This is a great video. If all the plaster and floors are sealed according to this video and any penetrations to it are sealed appropriately, what's the hurdle stopping the air tightness measure from going well below 6ACH (assuming good quality windows and doors)?
You could hit 3ach, depending on how large the home is. Large Macmansions, can hit 3ach@50pa easily.
Wouldn't it be better not to let external air into internal wall cavities in the first place, given that it still robs the house of heat even if it never makes it into the room? Why not plaster the external walls and ceilings and then somehow seal through the junctions where they meet internal walls (and floors, in a double storey house), then you wouldn't need to worry about internal walls at all. Then the airtightness envelope would truly abut the insulation envelope everywhere, as it should. Less surface area to seal should also make it possible to get better results in blower door tests. I would like to see more videos that explore the possibilities in regards to this.