I too have been searching for a pressurised alcohol stove and it led me here. I was looking for a stove with a pressure vessel, pump and supply hose to keep the alcohol away from the burner not this lol. I love it but it's completely mental!
#1 alcohol vapor is explosive if it gets hot and has pressure. If there is a leak on the lid, it will ignite what's inside and could explode. The hole on the lid should be smaller and you should be using a heat source that won't put a flame near the lid of the upper vessel. Also, everything should be made so it doesn't melt or fall and it should be burnt inside of a flame proof metal of clay container
When the stove fell over, it appeared to keep going with no issues, I assume it was feeding back it's own heat to keep cranking away. Is that correct? If so then the pan underneath could be used just for priming to get it going. Alternative could be fuel tube going through the flame so once it's going it could keep itself going I guess this principle with a needle valve or similar may allow controlling temp. That's been what has held me back from alcohol stoves so far, as i usually need to cook rather than just boil water
Thank you for putting the excitement back into backpacking. The big boys (stove manufacturers) are always playing it safe & frankly their products are, well boring!
I made a few hi pressure alcohol stoves. Over the last 7 years I’ve finally made a toned down version I use and is perfect for my use. Let me know if you want to try one. It’s also easy to refuel. Checkout my video of the final product.
@@Suluk46 An ultralight backpacker is using alcohol stoves to save weight and space of course. The challenge to improve them is to retain their simplicity and lightness while trying to reach the boiling performance of a canister stove without blowing over and burning down the forest. It also helps if they are not to fussy to prep. :)
That's the type of help I need! I know there are guys out there have info on this type of stove, and I can design around the pressure vessel aspect of it. Thanks for the help.
I'm no stove expert, but have been reading up on old timey alcohol blow torches. Many are self pressurized, operating on the same principle you are using. Check out yt vids on these torches. Some manufactures are hansen, Jim dandy, turner, etc. They're cool, and might give you some ideas. Great project and video. Thanks
So, penny stoves and other can stoves tend to boil off their fuel using feedback from the primary burner instead of a buddy burner. I'm currently in the process of making something like this work, but using heat feedback. Also, when you run out of fuel in the top burner, it can melt if you don't put out the lower burner ASAP. This is because the top burner stays at the boiling point of the alcohol - the fuel is the coolant. Without fuel, it will probably melt. I think this is why most designs siphon away a bit of heat from the primary burner instead of having a separate one.
This is probably the best response yet, and explains why it would not be made. I'm updating my design and like you mention, siphoning off the primary to the buddy burner. I would be interested to see what yours ends up looking like and how well it works. Thanks man.
@@Suluk46Just to expand on heat feedback / stability: In a penny stove, the stronger the flame, the more the flame points away from the container, which in turn reduces the amount of heat feedback and causes the flame to die back. When the flame gets weak, it tends to lay against the metal of the can, thus heating it up more and reinvigorating itself by feeding more heat back into the reservoir. In short, because a large flame feeds less heat back than a small flame on the penny stove design, the stove is always hunting for a stable middle ground. However, in the penny design, the stable region of heat feedback is somewhat sensitive to environmental temperature and the flames are often not strong enough to fight back against wind / are just a bit weak for efficient water boiling in some cases. I think this is because the stable region of the penny stove is at a fairly calm flame, similar to a home range burner. I'm sure a well-optimized penny stove is totally usable, but I think you're right to be searching for a more blowtorch-y solution. You'd get a high intensity flame with significantly more wind resistance and shorter cooking times (less time to waste heat from your cook pot into the environment, inherently more efficient.) I'm aiming for a design that somehow maintains stability in a similar fashion to the penny stove, albiet at a higher pressure / flame intensity. It all comes down to creating a geometry that extracts heat from a tall flame. I've tried putting a vertical copper wire in the center of the jet hole to see if the heat would flow down and feed back into the reservoir, but it wasn't providing enough feedback. The distance is too great for the width / heat carrying capacity of the wire, or maybe it's rejecting too much heat directly to the air instead of flowing down. I've also had trouble with melting the wire. I've been wanting to try copper / aluminum pipe instead. Bonus points if the pipe is made of a soda can, lol! Go check out coil wick stoves - they use a wick to bring the fuel above the flame inside of a loop of copper tube. I'm glad I could help and hope that this comment gives you a boost - excited to see what you come up with. I'll get back to you if I ever figure this one out too.
@@erich1394 That's a great comment and has been really useful to me. I was building a simple version of the alcohol stove with a screw-thread aluminium can instead of putting two bits of pop can together. I punched a hole in the top to have one single vertical jet - I dished the top downwards, then pushed the centre up again for a nice "moat" of primer, although it might need more - and then I got too scared to try it with the top screwed down tight. I checked that it's pretty air-tight (before the hole was punched) by putting it from cold in near-boiling water and checking for bubbles, and there were none. I think your point about the self-regulating flame will work to avoid excess pressure build-up. Another concern I have, though, is whether the vapour inside the can might get to an explosive mix and ignite through the hole. I remember an experiment at school where the teacher filled a tin can with gas from the bunsen burner supply - it had a press-fit lid and a hole - lit the gas at the hole, we all waited... and when the gas/air mix got to a particular proportion, it ignited and blew the lid off. In my case, I imagine pressure would overcome the friction at the screw thread and blast out there, or it would rip a bigger hole in the lid, perhaps. I'd love to know how you got on with your designs, and Suluk46. Anyway, thanks to both of you!
@@lettersquash I've been experimenting with aluminum solo cups (google them) - taking the bottom off both, cutting one a bit shorter, then putting the shorter one into the taller one with a bit of old woven cotton cloth wrapped around the inner cup, leaving a little sticking out around the edge. There's a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the top piece (shorter one) for filling. It's slightly pressurized when you set a pot directly on it and requires no priming due to wick! As far as thermal feedback goes, the only way to avoid it without going depressurized (or having a relief valve like a penny stove) is to have a separate fuel pressurization chamber in some way. The problem comes from heating all the fuel at once. If you can find a way to heat a small amount of fuel at a time where the amount of fuel available to be heated is limited by some factor, you'll have a built-in limit to fuel flow. Check out Tetkoba Alcohol Stove Addict for his capillary hoop designs - they seem to work by elevating a small amount of fuel above the rest of the fuel via capillary action, and because the heat starts at the top of the can stove and travels down, the heat hits the elevated fuel first, which helps to control thermal feedback. Good luck with your designs!
We are a manufacturer of Many kinds of alcohol stoves and Grills in Turkey. This pressurizing the alcohol looks dangerous especially for backpacking. But, we will try to improve it for manufacturing steady stoves and heaters. Thanks for sharing.
No one has made it cause it is scary! haha! Joking aside it is an interesting concept for sure. I am not really an alcohol stove person but enjoyed this video, glad you didn't burn your workshop down! Thanks for sharing. :) :)
Definitely would need to come up with something more reasonable than using the teeny jet hole. I have seen some other stoves that have a screw that is removed to fill the chamber, then installed to create the seal. Gotta think about it a bit.
2 years later, search: penny alcohol stove It is one container, uses heat on top and reflected heat to pressurize. Performance is good, very common & easy DIY alcohol stove.
I used to sell them, but due to extreme UNpopular demand, I stopped. Now, those who did buy one have a rare, limited edition Suluk 46 hat that will probably be worth millions in the future...I probably have a few lying around, send me an email and I'll set you up.
Hi Steve Interesting stove .. So you want the alcohol guys to chime in...... here's my thoughts. The reason I use a Fancy feast stove is it's easy and pretty much foolproof. If I need to boil water for dinner (and I use the same titanium pot you have 😁) it's a matter of set up the stove,pour in some fuel, light it put on your pot and leave it.
I hear ya! I'm no stranger to the fancy feast stove. Have used one many times and it is rock solid. It would be tough to build something better...BUUUT, the nerd in me is always thinking 🤔
@@Suluk46 I think getting jet power out of alcohol is possible but finicky..... Now if you can make something like a svea123 that's actually lightweight with a built-in fuel tank that would be interesting 👍
interesting video. In order to make it safe you can put some perlite into your alcohol container. Perlite will suck the alcohol and give out during burning.
It needs a way to control the flow. Like a valve or something… if you routed the gas through a short tube, that might be safer. It would need to be rubber hose with a metal tip.
I think this probably gets the water boiled faster, but you won’t get more boiling water with the same amount of alcohol. However, you need to carry more alcohol as booster.
Surely efficiency is a product of how much energy meths stores and how well you trap the heat. I'm no phyicist, but I would have thought that any meths stove releases a similar amount of heat per gram, as it isn't like a woodgas stove where you are trying to get secondary combustion. Therefore surely the best way to increase efficiency is to use a heat exchanger (a la Jetboil), and a very tight windshield (with enough oxygen holes) to trap the heat? Any other advantage would be releasing that heat energy faster, as you say. Awesome mad scientist video though ;)
You are lucky ! ( and smart , too , I'm glad You're smart enough to have a fire extinguisher on hand ) Would it change anything different if You punched the hole from the other side ? The cup looks pretty unstable to Me ( could scauld You very badly ) . Obviously You don't have a fire alarm ! LOL
@@Suluk46 I saw a video on TH-cam a few yrs. ago doing something similar . This Guy used coke cans ( to the best of My FEEBLE memory ) . the flames He maintained was FRIGHTENING ! He could have set off all the fire alarms on His block ( and burned half the houses , if it didn't go well ) ! I said all that , to say this , make SURE that fire extinguisher will extinguish a achol fire ( not all will ) !
@@johnhoward7298 I think I saws the same one, just pop cans...its what made me look into this style a bit more. Wait until you see the updated version......
Lol I just watched someone make an controlled alcohol b0mb, never change my good man!!!!. If you take a look at a pennystove you could use elements from it and how is builds pressure please please keep up the good dangerous work 😂😂🤘
Your talking about the generator or pre-heat tube like what you would see on a classic remote canister stove? That's a different beast altogether. I have a couple of them that I use for snow melting. Actually doing a video on it in the next few weeks.
Probably, i know them as multi-fuel stoves but am at least 3 decades out of touch.. ;) perhaps watching a model steam engine vid or 2 might remind you of the difference in volume between liquid and gas states and the power of the pressure than can build up, make the gas highly flammable and set fire to it too and its not an experiment i would want next door and im the chap my neighbours worry about ;)
@@larkbox8427 Lol. I am also that neighbour...I have a similar multi-fuel stove that has the pre-heat tube. Works wonders. This isn't that far off, except I want to use heat to build the pressure as opposed to pumping the gas cylinder, but still different enough to make a comparison tough. I'll try not to blow up the street in my testing 😁
check out Copper Coil Alcohol Burner Stove on TH-cam that's your preheat. they sell them as gasoline stoves in EU, on eBay UK. sold in Russia as alcohol stove with bottle feed .build a coil stove first they are safe and fun.
Someone sent me a message saying that the temperature of an alcohol flame is the same regardless of pressure. So in fact, you want it to burn as slow and mild as possible for any given amount. Make sense? I haven't done any research...
it's just too much faff.. the whole thing about AS (for me) is you can make one instantly with a knife and a can.. if you need to. sure i have dozens of variants & some i take out on the trail but i keep it as light as possible becos it's just for coffee.. cold soak makes going into town that little more reasonable
I checked out your video, looks like a tentakoba type stove. And am learning about thermal runaway. Sounds like most people actually don't want that to happen. Why is that? Too much heat output so loss of efficiency?
@@Suluk46 thermal runaway cause the fuel to boil and vaporize to fast. Some stoves blow apart fuel runtimes aren’t consistent. I found a way to use thermal runaway in stoves that’s reliable. Yes my stoves are tetkoba style burners.
what you have has been built every which way you can think of and then some over the years.and in much easier and more convenient compact designs.triangia I think is the commercial model,some swiss alcohol stove.but there's tons of pop can versions.penny stove was more or less the foundation.
I've only found a handful of ones with the double burner, and most of them are very old or vintage. I've got a new version being tested, and I'll make a video, in the coming weeks. It seems that to fine tune the stove is the difficult part. Like designing a multi-stage rocket, a strong thermodynamics background is helpful. I'll go over the changes in the video.
If you're trying to make a "better" stove, you first need to define "better." As a backpacker, to me better means less weight and volume to carry, while maintaining reasonable speed to temp. To me, 6-8 minutes to boil 2 cups (475 ml) water is reasonable, even though a Jetboil system will do it in only 2 min. The Jetboil is a few pounds more weight than my home made alcohol setup. I'll gladly trade 5 minutes for 2 pounds. Your overdrive setup is too tall,, too tippy, and too finicky for everyday use on the trail.
Good points, I'm not yet at the point of defining the criteria for a better stove, but it would touch on several of the criteria you brought up. Right now, I am only trying to understand why no company makes a stove using this high pressure technique. I've got a few people with valid points, but I am not yet convinced. Any input from that end? As for the mechanical setup, that's just a rig for testing. The final design would be inline with the rest of my products....and probably made from titanium 😁😁😁
@@Suluk46 I think the biggest reason no one makes it is because no one would buy it. It's too much fiddling for too little return. What can you advertise it doing? Looking cool? I doubt it will boil appreciably quicker, and certainly won't use less fuel.
Its a bit like using a priming dish with a jet-style alcohol stove - something to give it some humph to get it going. Could be that yours doesn't need a constant flame at the lower burner - the main burner might be self-maintaining once hot from a short flame from the lower burner. That's getting pretty close to a jet-style stove with priming dish though.
I'm actually learning so much about this from everything. So thanks for the info. I agree, there are some similarities to what I want to do, and what is out there. I just want very high pressures, and not too many have that. Probably a reason...
@@Suluk46 A lot of "jet" alcohol stoves are self maintaining once they warm up, including the traditional pepsi-can stove and the half-penny stove. I've built some half-penny stoves out of basically RedBull cans, and bought a nice pepsi can stove off some other guy on ebay years ago. On both, once they're primed and they "bloom", i.e. the jets get going, they generate enough heat to keep themselves going.
I too have been searching for a pressurised alcohol stove and it led me here. I was looking for a stove with a pressure vessel, pump and supply hose to keep the alcohol away from the burner not this lol.
I love it but it's completely mental!
#1 alcohol vapor is explosive if it gets hot and has pressure. If there is a leak on the lid, it will ignite what's inside and could explode. The hole on the lid should be smaller and you should be using a heat source that won't put a flame near the lid of the upper vessel. Also, everything should be made so it doesn't melt or fall and it should be burnt inside of a flame proof metal of clay container
When the stove fell over, it appeared to keep going with no issues, I assume it was feeding back it's own heat to keep cranking away. Is that correct? If so then the pan underneath could be used just for priming to get it going. Alternative could be fuel tube going through the flame so once it's going it could keep itself going
I guess this principle with a needle valve or similar may allow controlling temp. That's been what has held me back from alcohol stoves so far, as i usually need to cook rather than just boil water
Thank you for putting the excitement back into backpacking. The big boys (stove manufacturers) are always playing it safe & frankly their products are, well boring!
Wait until you see the new version of this! It's wild!!!
may I recommend starting with rubbing alcohol?
I prefer rocket fuel.
I made a few hi pressure alcohol stoves. Over the last 7 years I’ve finally made a toned down version I use and is perfect for my use. Let me know if you want to try one. It’s also easy to refuel. Checkout my video of the final product.
Naming suggestion: Suluk46 wildfire stove
(Love my lightweight gear from you)
I was going to call it "home owners insurance" 😂🤣😂
Check out Tektoba's youtube channel on light weight jet stove manufacturing if you haven't already.
I have seen his stuff. He is the master. But I haven't seen him make this particular style. There must be a reason, I just don't know what it is.
@@Suluk46 An ultralight backpacker is using alcohol stoves to save weight and space of course. The challenge to improve them is to retain their simplicity and lightness while trying to reach the boiling performance of a canister stove without blowing over and burning down the forest. It also helps if they are not to fussy to prep. :)
That's actually a great summary. The challenge is not as straight forward as I may have thought earlier today.
How long does it take to boil water with that flame
Aiming for a 10 second boil 😂 - somewhere around 4 minutes with the high output.
I've never seen this kind of design before, but I know just the guys to send this video to. Best of luck.
That's the type of help I need! I know there are guys out there have info on this type of stove, and I can design around the pressure vessel aspect of it. Thanks for the help.
I'm no stove expert, but have been reading up on old timey alcohol blow torches. Many are self pressurized, operating on the same principle you are using. Check out yt vids on these torches. Some manufactures are hansen, Jim dandy, turner, etc. They're cool, and might give you some ideas. Great project and video. Thanks
Thanks man. This is a rough concept, I've got a new version made and will have a video up in the next month or so of it. Should be a fun process.
So, penny stoves and other can stoves tend to boil off their fuel using feedback from the primary burner instead of a buddy burner. I'm currently in the process of making something like this work, but using heat feedback. Also, when you run out of fuel in the top burner, it can melt if you don't put out the lower burner ASAP. This is because the top burner stays at the boiling point of the alcohol - the fuel is the coolant. Without fuel, it will probably melt. I think this is why most designs siphon away a bit of heat from the primary burner instead of having a separate one.
This is probably the best response yet, and explains why it would not be made. I'm updating my design and like you mention, siphoning off the primary to the buddy burner. I would be interested to see what yours ends up looking like and how well it works. Thanks man.
@@Suluk46Just to expand on heat feedback / stability:
In a penny stove, the stronger the flame, the more the flame points away from the container, which in turn reduces the amount of heat feedback and causes the flame to die back. When the flame gets weak, it tends to lay against the metal of the can, thus heating it up more and reinvigorating itself by feeding more heat back into the reservoir.
In short, because a large flame feeds less heat back than a small flame on the penny stove design, the stove is always hunting for a stable middle ground.
However, in the penny design, the stable region of heat feedback is somewhat sensitive to environmental temperature and the flames are often not strong enough to fight back against wind / are just a bit weak for efficient water boiling in some cases. I think this is because the stable region of the penny stove is at a fairly calm flame, similar to a home range burner.
I'm sure a well-optimized penny stove is totally usable, but I think you're right to be searching for a more blowtorch-y solution. You'd get a high intensity flame with significantly more wind resistance and shorter cooking times (less time to waste heat from your cook pot into the environment, inherently more efficient.)
I'm aiming for a design that somehow maintains stability in a similar fashion to the penny stove, albiet at a higher pressure / flame intensity. It all comes down to creating a geometry that extracts heat from a tall flame. I've tried putting a vertical copper wire in the center of the jet hole to see if the heat would flow down and feed back into the reservoir, but it wasn't providing enough feedback. The distance is too great for the width / heat carrying capacity of the wire, or maybe it's rejecting too much heat directly to the air instead of flowing down. I've also had trouble with melting the wire. I've been wanting to try copper / aluminum pipe instead. Bonus points if the pipe is made of a soda can, lol!
Go check out coil wick stoves - they use a wick to bring the fuel above the flame inside of a loop of copper tube.
I'm glad I could help and hope that this comment gives you a boost - excited to see what you come up with. I'll get back to you if I ever figure this one out too.
@@erich1394 That's a great comment and has been really useful to me. I was building a simple version of the alcohol stove with a screw-thread aluminium can instead of putting two bits of pop can together. I punched a hole in the top to have one single vertical jet - I dished the top downwards, then pushed the centre up again for a nice "moat" of primer, although it might need more - and then I got too scared to try it with the top screwed down tight. I checked that it's pretty air-tight (before the hole was punched) by putting it from cold in near-boiling water and checking for bubbles, and there were none. I think your point about the self-regulating flame will work to avoid excess pressure build-up. Another concern I have, though, is whether the vapour inside the can might get to an explosive mix and ignite through the hole. I remember an experiment at school where the teacher filled a tin can with gas from the bunsen burner supply - it had a press-fit lid and a hole - lit the gas at the hole, we all waited... and when the gas/air mix got to a particular proportion, it ignited and blew the lid off. In my case, I imagine pressure would overcome the friction at the screw thread and blast out there, or it would rip a bigger hole in the lid, perhaps. I'd love to know how you got on with your designs, and Suluk46. Anyway, thanks to both of you!
@@lettersquash I've been experimenting with aluminum solo cups (google them) - taking the bottom off both, cutting one a bit shorter, then putting the shorter one into the taller one with a bit of old woven cotton cloth wrapped around the inner cup, leaving a little sticking out around the edge. There's a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the top piece (shorter one) for filling. It's slightly pressurized when you set a pot directly on it and requires no priming due to wick!
As far as thermal feedback goes, the only way to avoid it without going depressurized (or having a relief valve like a penny stove) is to have a separate fuel pressurization chamber in some way. The problem comes from heating all the fuel at once. If you can find a way to heat a small amount of fuel at a time where the amount of fuel available to be heated is limited by some factor, you'll have a built-in limit to fuel flow.
Check out Tetkoba Alcohol Stove Addict for his capillary hoop designs - they seem to work by elevating a small amount of fuel above the rest of the fuel via capillary action, and because the heat starts at the top of the can stove and travels down, the heat hits the elevated fuel first, which helps to control thermal feedback.
Good luck with your designs!
have you measured how much is the pressure in psi inside the can?
I haven't but probably should.
We are a manufacturer of Many kinds of alcohol stoves and Grills in Turkey. This pressurizing the alcohol looks dangerous especially for backpacking. But, we will try to improve it for manufacturing steady stoves and heaters. Thanks for sharing.
It is dangerous, but that is what makes it fun! Good luck.
Isnt trangia self pressurized?
There are a few self pressurized ones out there.
No one has made it cause it is scary! haha! Joking aside it is an interesting concept for sure. I am not really an alcohol stove person but enjoyed this video, glad you didn't burn your workshop down! Thanks for sharing. :) :)
That may actually be the reason no one makes this stove...because it explodes!
I was thinking more along the lines of pulse jet design.soda can "jam jar pulse jet" basically
Unique stove. Nice bro....
Thanks man. New version coming soon.
@@Suluk46 oke im ready, its look at that your creation,, nice,, good job.
The true fire in the home...!! Ho my goodneeeeeess....!!!!
I no longer test these stoves in my house 😂
I'm from Brazil I liked this stove send one of these to me if you can
Seems kinda finicky to refill in the field, if the “pressure vessel” is sealed but for the tiny jet.
Definitely would need to come up with something more reasonable than using the teeny jet hole. I have seen some other stoves that have a screw that is removed to fill the chamber, then installed to create the seal. Gotta think about it a bit.
2 years later, search:
penny alcohol stove
It is one container, uses heat on top and reflected heat to pressurize. Performance is good, very common & easy DIY alcohol stove.
I have nothin’... but it was friggin cool too watch. 😂
I also have nuthin'...hence why I made the video 😂
Where can I get one of those sweet Suluk46 hats, Steve?!
I used to sell them, but due to extreme UNpopular demand, I stopped. Now, those who did buy one have a rare, limited edition Suluk 46 hat that will probably be worth millions in the future...I probably have a few lying around, send me an email and I'll set you up.
@@Suluk46 evan.skwara@gmail.com. Happy to buy one from ya if you have any left
Hi Steve
Interesting stove ..
So you want the alcohol guys to chime in...... here's my thoughts.
The reason I use a Fancy feast stove is it's easy and pretty much foolproof.
If I need to boil water for dinner (and I use the same titanium pot you have 😁) it's a matter of set up the stove,pour in some fuel, light it put on your pot and leave it.
I hear ya! I'm no stranger to the fancy feast stove. Have used one many times and it is rock solid. It would be tough to build something better...BUUUT, the nerd in me is always thinking 🤔
@@Suluk46 I think getting jet power out of alcohol is possible but finicky..... Now if you can make something like a svea123 that's actually lightweight with a built-in fuel tank that would be interesting 👍
I agree. I almost burned my house down...ultralight version of a Svea123... interesting 🙂👍
I like the idea a lot of that stove thing holy crap
Needs to be tamed, but has potential.
That looks like a good time right there!
If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up to much space 😂😁😂👍
interesting video. In order to make it safe you can put some perlite into your alcohol container. Perlite will suck the alcohol and give out during burning.
What does the perlite do? Absorb the alcohol but still allow it to gassify? Basically, stop it from spitting out?
Perlite absorb the alcohol to avoid split it out. But easyly alcohol evaporate in gas form. It will evaporate as fast as it is in liquid form.
Awesome. Thanks for that. I will definitely try it.
It needs a way to control the flow. Like a valve or something… if you routed the gas through a short tube, that might be safer. It would need to be rubber hose with a metal tip.
You are correct, I was hoping that I could size a generic valve diameter and get away with it. Probably not though.
You ever find out what this is called?
Not officially. But blowtorch or flamethrower would be good names to use 😂
I think this probably gets the water boiled faster, but you won’t get more boiling water with the same amount of alcohol. However, you need to carry more alcohol as booster.
I think you may be right. I'm still testing, but my tests show this is faster not necessarily more efficient.
Surely efficiency is a product of how much energy meths stores and how well you trap the heat. I'm no phyicist, but I would have thought that any meths stove releases a similar amount of heat per gram, as it isn't like a woodgas stove where you are trying to get secondary combustion. Therefore surely the best way to increase efficiency is to use a heat exchanger (a la Jetboil), and a very tight windshield (with enough oxygen holes) to trap the heat? Any other advantage would be releasing that heat energy faster, as you say. Awesome mad scientist video though ;)
@@mountainchrisps Lol. Thanks man. I'm still working on it, but the primary goal was the mad scientist look!
You are lucky ! ( and smart , too ,
I'm glad You're smart enough to have a fire extinguisher on hand )
Would it change anything different
if You punched the hole from the other side ? The cup looks pretty
unstable to Me ( could scauld You
very badly ) . Obviously You don't
have a fire alarm ! LOL
I've got a new stand that I designed for the system, so it is much more stable now. Should have an update in the next few weeks.
@@Suluk46 I saw a video on TH-cam a few yrs. ago doing something similar . This Guy used
coke cans ( to the best of My FEEBLE memory ) . the flames He
maintained was FRIGHTENING !
He could have set off all the fire alarms on His block ( and burned
half the houses , if it didn't go well ) !
I said all that , to say this , make
SURE that fire extinguisher will
extinguish a achol fire ( not all will ) !
@@johnhoward7298 I think I saws the same one, just pop cans...its what made me look into this style a bit more. Wait until you see the updated version......
Lol I just watched someone make an controlled alcohol b0mb, never change my good man!!!!. If you take a look at a pennystove you could use elements from it and how is builds pressure please please keep up the good dangerous work 😂😂🤘
Lol. Don't worry, I will!
this is so ridiculous...def love it
That's what I like to hear!
Future Darwin Award Winner.
Primus stoves preheat the fuel to provide pressure after an initial priming with a pump to start the process.
its an old and established tech
Your talking about the generator or pre-heat tube like what you would see on a classic remote canister stove? That's a different beast altogether. I have a couple of them that I use for snow melting. Actually doing a video on it in the next few weeks.
Probably, i know them as multi-fuel stoves but am at least 3 decades out of touch.. ;) perhaps watching a model steam engine vid or 2 might remind you of the difference in volume between liquid and gas states and the power of the pressure than can build up, make the gas highly flammable and set fire to it too and its not an experiment i would want next door and im the chap my neighbours worry about ;)
@@larkbox8427 Lol. I am also that neighbour...I have a similar multi-fuel stove that has the pre-heat tube. Works wonders. This isn't that far off, except I want to use heat to build the pressure as opposed to pumping the gas cylinder, but still different enough to make a comparison tough. I'll try not to blow up the street in my testing 😁
check out Copper Coil Alcohol Burner Stove on TH-cam that's your preheat. they sell them as gasoline stoves in EU, on eBay UK. sold in Russia as alcohol stove with bottle feed .build a coil stove first they are safe and fun.
Will do, thanks for the tip. Love the avatar by the way 👍
you had it right the first time
I may have.
Primarily, you are using twice as much fuel.
Measure fuel and boil time with jet stove compaired to a typical stove.
I'm going to build one just for the fun of it.
:)
Someone sent me a message saying that the temperature of an alcohol flame is the same regardless of pressure. So in fact, you want it to burn as slow and mild as possible for any given amount. Make sense? I haven't done any research...
Litigation, plain and simple. They are so afraid of enduser error, that they do not want to open themselves up to litigation. Sad, but true
it's just too much faff.. the whole thing about AS (for me) is you can make one instantly with a knife and a can.. if you need to. sure i have dozens of variants & some i take out on the trail but i keep it as light as possible becos it's just for coffee.. cold soak makes going into town that little more reasonable
There is beauty in simplicity. Maybe that is one of the reasons. Thanks man.
because it's not safe?
If it is designed correctly, it should be safe though.
I also made lots of ultra hi pressure alcohol stoves that burns ultra hot. “Thermal runaway”. But I managed to tune it so I can use it. Message me
I checked out your video, looks like a tentakoba type stove. And am learning about thermal runaway. Sounds like most people actually don't want that to happen. Why is that? Too much heat output so loss of efficiency?
@@Suluk46 thermal runaway cause the fuel to boil and vaporize to fast. Some stoves blow apart fuel runtimes aren’t consistent. I found a way to use thermal runaway in stoves that’s reliable. Yes my stoves are tetkoba style burners.
what you have has been built every which way you can think of and then some over the years.and in much easier and more convenient compact designs.triangia I think is the commercial model,some swiss alcohol stove.but there's tons of pop can versions.penny stove was more or less the foundation.
I've only found a handful of ones with the double burner, and most of them are very old or vintage. I've got a new version being tested, and I'll make a video, in the coming weeks. It seems that to fine tune the stove is the difficult part. Like designing a multi-stage rocket, a strong thermodynamics background is helpful. I'll go over the changes in the video.
Bees wax tealight candles 🕯
Kind of redundant to have an alcohol stove to use another alcohol stove...
👍😁
If you're trying to make a "better" stove, you first need to define "better."
As a backpacker, to me better means less weight and volume to carry, while maintaining reasonable speed to temp. To me, 6-8 minutes to boil 2 cups (475 ml) water is reasonable, even though a Jetboil system will do it in only 2 min.
The Jetboil is a few pounds more weight than my home made alcohol setup. I'll gladly trade 5 minutes for 2 pounds.
Your overdrive setup is too tall,, too tippy, and too finicky for everyday use on the trail.
Good points, I'm not yet at the point of defining the criteria for a better stove, but it would touch on several of the criteria you brought up. Right now, I am only trying to understand why no company makes a stove using this high pressure technique. I've got a few people with valid points, but I am not yet convinced. Any input from that end? As for the mechanical setup, that's just a rig for testing. The final design would be inline with the rest of my products....and probably made from titanium 😁😁😁
@@Suluk46
I think the biggest reason no one makes it is because no one would buy it. It's too much fiddling for too little return.
What can you advertise it doing? Looking cool? I doubt it will boil appreciably quicker, and certainly won't use less fuel.
@@xenaguy01 Lol...I don't know man, lots of people buy things that look cool :)
@@Suluk46
Good luck then.
Dude you remind me of Mr. Robot
The guy in this video isn't actually me, he is a paid actor named Remi Malek. I will pass on your information that he reminds you of Mr. Robot.
Too dangerous and over the top!! With backpacking, you want "simple" , safe and efficient as to which that stove has NONE of.
Its a bit like using a priming dish with a jet-style alcohol stove - something to give it some humph to get it going. Could be that yours doesn't need a constant flame at the lower burner - the main burner might be self-maintaining once hot from a short flame from the lower burner. That's getting pretty close to a jet-style stove with priming dish though.
I'm actually learning so much about this from everything. So thanks for the info. I agree, there are some similarities to what I want to do, and what is out there. I just want very high pressures, and not too many have that. Probably a reason...
@@Suluk46 A lot of "jet" alcohol stoves are self maintaining once they warm up, including the traditional pepsi-can stove and the half-penny stove. I've built some half-penny stoves out of basically RedBull cans, and bought a nice pepsi can stove off some other guy on ebay years ago. On both, once they're primed and they "bloom", i.e. the jets get going, they generate enough heat to keep themselves going.
As soon as I heard "3D printed spacers" I quit watching. Not everyone can afford a 3D printer.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Have a good day!
it's too dangerous!!!!!
Danger is my middle name.
Philippine ang nauna ginaya nyolang yan