I like the way Magnus goes about it, if you just brush your foot against a hold and didn’t actually use it to help you climb the problem then its whatever
I remember climbing a few months ago and my belayer yelled Dab. I looked down and said "my hands and arms are kinda busy right now to do that." That's the day I learned a new dab..
When it's bolts and other holds, yeah, it's a dab. When it's a sign like the black diamond sign, or the start sign to the ifsc comps (I have seen someone taken off the wall for touching the start sign) I call BS, not a dab, there is nothing they can gain by touching them either accidentally or on purpose.
There is actually a reason for the rule regarding the advertisements in an IFSC comp. The rules state that every climber is granted equal opportunity, in other words an identical problem. This includes everything on the wall you may hold on to or limiting the space you can touch (like black tape or the advertisements today). It used to be ok to touch the advertisements but then there was a case where a plastic advertisement helped ease a hard move in a boulder when used as a foothold. After a couple of climbers figured that out and used it the sign broke thus changing the boulder. Back than it was a huge technical incident because either a replacement of the exact same dimensions can be mounted or the whole boulder cannot be counted towrds the score (which is also problem if some haven't climbed it yet and subsequently get to burn their energy on fewer problems than the early starters). They eventually found a replacement but to avoid similar problems in the future using the advertisements was then banned. This however led to controversy (e.g in the case of Shaun McColl presented in the video) when an advertisement is placed in a spot required for a natural clmbing move (like the spot you'd place your foot naturally). It is however always a matter of the subjective eye of the judge or crew reviewing the incident, weather soethign was used in a way that the climber gained from using it. When being trained as a judge I was told to let the climber finish the route (or boulder) in such cases and doublecheck the video afterwards for a decision. In case the athelete then askes for the incident to be reviewed and you calling him off half way up is overthrown he already climbed to his max in stead of having to repeat the climb. Summed up te major point is it's fairer to not use the signs e.g. and the rule makes sense but setters need to take more care when mounting the advertisements to not create traps for the climbers.
The signs are actually pretty thick. U can get something with it. But they should just not put them in the route or should be okay with climbers touching them.
if there are holes on the walls w/c are not to be used by climbers, why not put grout over it or some sort of filler? that way you eliminate at least 50% of the dabbing intentional or not.... before the smart alec says 'the screws are there so the wall can be disassembled quickly', then just grout/filler over it, you can still remove the screw behind it after the competition is done...
@@pihermoso11 Not a climber, but I assume it takes too much time and effort to put grout over every single hole after the route is set (and remove it afterwards) when you could just tell every competitor to not use those holes and have them be responsible people.
My friend, I've been rock climbing for 2 months now, and I absolutely love it. It's not just a hobby anymore, it's a passion. Your videos have helped me discover more things about this passion. Thanks for making all those videos you make. You deserve every sub you have
I'm so happy you started climbing, I think it's one of those activities where you hear people talk about falling in love with it, and you don't understand it until you try it. I hope you're staying healthy and safe and keep crushing it! :)
@@markkealy4417 Indeed, I've had some times where I accidentally hurt myself on a hold trying to grab another one too fast, I would not call that helping at all, so if I then still get the route I am not going to disqualify it just because of that.
I can understand it in some way because the bush stopped him a little bit swinging out to much/fast. You could argue that without the bush we would have fallen out, but yes, I agree that is stupid.
I actually looked at climbing a route in north Wales where the guidebook suggested that a tree may need to be used to do the route. Not sure where your integrity lies if the guidebook suggests the dab.
That's funny, my Alberta Bouldering Guidebook has a similar one, where it rates the routes a V3 if you use the tree for assistance (it's really close to the boulder, hard not to hit your back on) while a V5 without touching the tree as it requires a much trickier move to stay close enough to the wall to avoid the tree. I think that's a better option, basically progression difficulties.
If over half of the people dab when doing a bolder. That bolder shouldn't count. It's clearly a bad bolder. In fact from their ankle they can't see the black tape and had no way of remembering that it wraps around
Great video as always, thanks. In competitive trials riding dabs are permitted but cause penalty points. Not suggesting it for climbing, but it's interesting to compare. If you've not seen trials riding id certainly recommend checking it out, it's highly entertaining and really quite similar to climbing, just on a weird motorbike. A search for FIM x-trial should get you going.
I actually dabbed while bouldering yesterday, when trying to reposition my foot my hand slipped and I fell, nearly hitting my face against the wall. I knew immediately I messed up but it made me all the more determined to try again, this is why I have become so addicted to climbing the determination is fierce. I am also still a beginner but I hope to better my technic as I continue into this sport
I'd say if the banner is in a place that someone can push off on it, then it shouldn't be a dab. They have a whole massive wall to put those banners on, if you put it where the climbers might put their feet, thats the organizers bad.
great video! PS: the term "dab" clearly comes from Trails Riding, as with off-road motorcycles, where touching a foot to the ground anywhere on the course is called a "dab" and costs a point.
i have no idea why i love watching climbing so much, i tried it and was just way too scared of the rope breaking maybe i should try again been a while, your channel is really entertaining and nice to me keep it up
Maybe try bouldering first? I was pretty scared even while bouldering (being 3-4m up was nothing I was used to), but the fear just goes down over time as the confidence increases. I also did lots of training in jumping down.
@@wilihey1425 Oh, that's cool! I started watching Sam Pilgrim videos and feeling the itch to try mountain biking too, but I'd probably hurt myself. I stick with bouldering for now 👍
@@Bloxeh i think its a really amazing sport climbing too etc, sport really makes you happy and more stable in your day to day life, good luck on everything friend and stay safe
I’m a low level climber but I just go based off of if I think I would have still been able to complete it without that dab. If yes than I’m cool with a little touch
I have dabbed before many times as an intermediate climber, and I do feel like doing it as an accident is fine, and it helps make me more conscious of what my whole body is doing and be able to control my movements a lot better. Knowing that I have dabbed on routes whether for fun or for comp is good in the end because it gives me the incentive to really focus on my problem areas where I had to use an additional hold to send a route.
I can understand the first example. Try this hard climb, outside the tape is out of bounds. Makes sense, keeps the challenge the same for everyone. I don't understand the second example as being wrong. Here are a bunch of things to grab on to for your climb use which ever you want. What does it matter if you use it for a strong hold point, or just use it for a moment? I'm not a climber, am I missing something here?
In that first competition clip, that's just bad setting. The completely natural balancing thing to do for the final hold is to place your foot where all the climbers did. It's just silly to put tape in such a place, especially since it's the finish - all the setters are doing is make the finish awkward and uncomfortable.
It's a kind of really strong hash and it's hard to climb that stoned. We couldn't even get our shoes on. I can't imagine dabbing and competing, that's hard core.
how i see it...if some one dab like that make ur coarse better...like putting the metal clip on the other side of the wall and cord though so there not a ledge.
True, but sometimes it's a hard job because there's things that they don't expect to be a problem during forerunning (practicing the climbs before the competition) so accidents like these do happen!
Pretty much anyone reasonable agrees. Anyone who's climbed slab knows how easy it is to scrum up and over a hold that isn't yours, and how much that can hinder you. Imagine doing a pistol squat and having your toe catch something as you try to push up - makes it just that much harder for what is already a really hard move for most people. You also don't see that outside, so it's not a skill you can expect climber's to develop naturally making it even less reasonable to me.
I tend to use holds on purpose, so I know if I've used something I shouldn't. I usually just drop off the climb at that point. Where someone watching sees my foot get purchase on a hold I shouldn't use, they'll definitely tell me, and I agree with them. I'll never do competition, but I like the idea that I've climbed a route properly. Clean start, not a jump assist, get to the top and touch it stable. I have a rule that if I haven't climbed it twice, then I can't say I can climb it. I hate fluking a climb.
To be honest, I find it quite annoying when you have a different colored part where just the wall(not even a block) being there would have helped to stabilize
Really interesting video! It would be cool to see what other youtube climbers think. Magnus (at least in boldering for fun) counts the send if touching another hold didn't help you.
Yeah.... In Ondra's case I don't think any DAB actually cracked his hopes and dreams but for less reknown athletes I can see that being very significant. They should have other opportunities though.
Not a dab but what about the tendency I've seen for climbers to use other holds to get into the starting position. The way learned is you only get the start hold(s) + feet
Wish I could contribute as being a new subscriber to get you to 10k but i’ve already been subscribed for quite a while, still liking and commenting for the algorithm.
I'm sure BD love having there athlete getting in trouble for touching there banner. I dont understand how using bold holes and cracks in the panels is legal but that's not. They need to make that a sticker.
Dabbing, or the dab, is a simple gesture in which a person drops their head into the bent crook of a slanted, upwardly angled arm, while raising the opposite arm out straight in a parallel direction. This appeared in the full length video of Michael Jackson’s Smooth Criminal at 8 mins 23 seconds though Michael is rarely credited with its creation. Since 2015, dabbing has been used as a gesture of triumph or playfulness, becoming a youthful fad and Internet meme.[1] The move looks similar to someone sneezing into the crook of their elbow.
I wonder if the word "dab" is borrowed from motorcycle trials riding? (See for example the scoring rules here: kingphiliptrailriders.com/PDF_files/CHEKRULE6.pdf ) It seems to be pretty much the exact same meaning. And I think that trials riding significantly predates _competitive_ bouldering.
Congrats on 10K! 👏🤩 Funny mention of other “dab”-that thingy move across your chest/face. 😂 I think your statement is fair that you have to be honest to yourself about “climbing dabs”. Having experienced being a U.S.A. Climbing judge for Youth ABS Regionals, it’s heartbreaking to tell a young climber they have to do it again bcoz of an unintentional dab that I know did not help in the original send. Perhaps the best way to avoid it is not have climbing zone tape, compact comp walls, or have marketing banners in sport climbing? The rules were set up for a reason, but perhaps a review board should be considered for practicality of latitude, aka, dual judge assessment? I had a second judge with me, since he was more experienced and we conferred about dabs; we both agreed some are blatant cheats some are negligible/inadvertent. 🧐
While I agree with honesty and integrity being appropriate for recreational climbing, in high level competition there needs to be a better system. Does anyone know how the Olympics were going to handle it? These kinds of issues can really sour a competition.
So far as I know I think they're going to go by similar of not the same rules as IFSC has created. It'll still be strict, but I think they're going to look ahead of time to prevent posters and bolts from cutting Olympic dreams short
There should be a certain amount of leniency indoors because of hold density (touching the ground in a different story). Outdoors, on the other hand, it is often very difficult to ascertain whether a dab has helped keep you on the rock, and everyone knows claiming an ascent after a dab (however small) is a complete sin. Dab on rock = back around punter.
Surely sometimes though, as with that brush, you can't really help it outdoors? If there's a shrub growing where your body naturally goes it's not as if you can remove the shrub, and it's more likely to be uncomfortable than helpful on your climb anyway...
@@mayawitters If you can't complete a climb without swinging into a bush then that's unfortunate, but it is still a dab. In this instance I can see an obvious sequence bringing your feet up into the break below the roof which would totally avoid having to cut loose. It would take more core tension, but if you are avoiding a sequence because it's harder in favor of one which is easier with a dab then you do not deserve the ascent. It's impossible to tell how much a dab helps at the best of times, which is why the blanket rule of a dab invalidating an ascent is applied.
@@arthurv8905 imagine caring this much about how others live. It's not like any of us are paubing first ascents, were all doing long established glassy routes done thousands of times before. Sure, maybe it matters if you're claiming an FA or a V14+ but that's literally 1% of climbers.
@@themurderofcoke thanks for necroing this thread. You are watching a video about dabbing in climbing, and complaining that someone has an opinion about dabbing in climbing? What did you expect when you clicked? Also, don't assume that all anyone climbs are "long established glassy routes done thousands of times before". Some of us enjoy problems which aren't polished roadside honeypots. A dab is a dab no matter whether you are on a 6A or a 9A. If you claim a dabbed ascent then fine, you do you, but do that in the knowledge that almost everyone else who did the route before you did it clean. It will always be a dabbed ascent of a route which you were very capable of doing clean.
dabs should be a part of the competition, why dont they build the courses around them?? if certain holds are "special" and shouldnt be allowed, then why would they even be there accidentally?
honestly? If touching another hold gives you no advantage over just smearing the wall, what's the point. Or if your foot brushes over the ground in a low altitude dyno, it doesn't help you in any way, if anything it can actually pull you off the wall by catching your momentum, so why would it be so bad?
I am color blind. In my first (and only) climbing competition in my local club I thought I accumulated enough points in the qualy to reach the finale only to hear I'd been dsq'd for a dab
Yeah, using color coding is really easy and very natural to many of us, but quite exclusionary to some. I'd argue against using it in competitions altogether, and just having "anything goes" with whatever is available for the climbers to reach. Reward creative thinking, force the route-setters create less artificial problems. In training, some walls have started using lights to indicate routes, which should be more helpful. They, of course, more costly than simply color-coding them, so I imagine the problem will persist in most smaller climbing gyms.
@@c99kfm That's very cool but it is a lot of work to completely strip your wall and only set competitive routes when the wall is also used for introductory trainings and casual climbing. Secondly it's all done by volunteers so I understand how things are done.
Awww, I really love your videos. Q&A: what about running out of time while doing a boulder problem at the competitions? I mean: your time is up but you're still hanging on the holds. Do you can keep trying to finish it? Or do you have to stop, jump off and leave? I'm asking because of situation with Vasya Vorotnikov (it starts somewhere 1:43:40) th-cam.com/video/l51KxaPHsEw/w-d-xo.html Best wishes and thank you for your work :)
(disclaimer, I don't follow competition super closely) Originally, in the IFSC if you were on the wall as the clock hit 0, it would be considered last try and you could take conceivably as long as you want. I believe in 2017/18 they changed the rule to keep competitions more tv friendly
Mark down replied with my answer, a few years back they had a rule that if you jumped on the problem before the clock ended you could finish your attempt, however now at exactly 4min they will call you off. A huge reason is that people took way too long sometimes and it was better for production value to have a set time of how long the competition would run.
@@AlbertOkay I loved the old rule. Way more exciting. I guess production value is subjective. If the comp took all day to run because of climbers still on the wall I'd be happy.
@@gimmepowder Haha yeah, I miss the old rule. But in preparation for the olympics and people who aren't climbers we just have to concede some of the fun things that happened before. I do know that allot of smaller comps still have the 4min+rule and those comps are really exciting to watch!
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
5:30 nice repeated:?
Forgive me guys I made this video with no sleep LOL
@@AlbertOkay It's fine this video is still great is still great
@@evetslon lol lol
@@AlbertOkay how dare you make a mistake.... It's just unacceptable.
Nah man, these videos are amazing
he dabbed, so he has to narrate it again
If a climber dabs on an advertising banner they should disqualify the advertiser instead XD
Really though, either make it a usable part of the course or put it out of the way.
Or penalize the Course Setter.
Now, in competition climbing, these dabs are extremely heartbreaking as it often cracks the hopes and dreams of these climbers
was looking for that comment
Now, in competition climbing, these dabs are extremely heartbreaking as it often cracks the hopes and dreams of these climbers
Now, in competition climbing, these dabs are extremely heartbreaking as it often cracks the hopes and dreams of these climbers
I can imagine it breaks some bones too, the arm movements mean you need to let go of what you're holding.
Now, in competition climbing, these dabs are extremely heartbreaking as it often cracks the hopes and dreams of these climbers
I like the way Magnus goes about it, if you just brush your foot against a hold and didn’t actually use it to help you climb the problem then its whatever
The number of holds your scrum over on slab routes is countless. They don't help you, if anything they usually hinder you.
as a non-climber the idea that a bush caused so much uproar is hilarious
As a feminist, I c*nt find anything funny about that.
@@bladdnun3016 ?
@@gabrielricardo9267 Just a drunk shitpost
@@bladdnun3016 lmao
Me too lmao
I remember climbing a few months ago and my belayer yelled Dab. I looked down and said "my hands and arms are kinda busy right now to do that." That's the day I learned a new dab..
When it's bolts and other holds, yeah, it's a dab. When it's a sign like the black diamond sign, or the start sign to the ifsc comps (I have seen someone taken off the wall for touching the start sign) I call BS, not a dab, there is nothing they can gain by touching them either accidentally or on purpose.
Those advertising signs need to be out of the way. I'd go as far as to say the same for hangers as well.
There is actually a reason for the rule regarding the advertisements in an IFSC comp. The rules state that every climber is granted equal opportunity, in other words an identical problem. This includes everything on the wall you may hold on to or limiting the space you can touch (like black tape or the advertisements today). It used to be ok to touch the advertisements but then there was a case where a plastic advertisement helped ease a hard move in a boulder when used as a foothold. After a couple of climbers figured that out and used it the sign broke thus changing the boulder. Back than it was a huge technical incident because either a replacement of the exact same dimensions can be mounted or the whole boulder cannot be counted towrds the score (which is also problem if some haven't climbed it yet and subsequently get to burn their energy on fewer problems than the early starters). They eventually found a replacement but to avoid similar problems in the future using the advertisements was then banned. This however led to controversy (e.g in the case of Shaun McColl presented in the video) when an advertisement is placed in a spot required for a natural clmbing move (like the spot you'd place your foot naturally).
It is however always a matter of the subjective eye of the judge or crew reviewing the incident, weather soethign was used in a way that the climber gained from using it. When being trained as a judge I was told to let the climber finish the route (or boulder) in such cases and doublecheck the video afterwards for a decision. In case the athelete then askes for the incident to be reviewed and you calling him off half way up is overthrown he already climbed to his max in stead of having to repeat the climb.
Summed up te major point is it's fairer to not use the signs e.g. and the rule makes sense but setters need to take more care when mounting the advertisements to not create traps for the climbers.
The signs are actually pretty thick. U can get something with it. But they should just not put them in the route or should be okay with climbers touching them.
if there are holes on the walls w/c are not to be used by climbers, why not put grout over it or some sort of filler? that way you eliminate at least 50% of the dabbing intentional or not.... before the smart alec says 'the screws are there so the wall can be disassembled quickly', then just grout/filler over it, you can still remove the screw behind it after the competition is done...
@@pihermoso11 Not a climber, but I assume it takes too much time and effort to put grout over every single hole after the route is set (and remove it afterwards) when you could just tell every competitor to not use those holes and have them be responsible people.
My friend, I've been rock climbing for 2 months now, and I absolutely love it. It's not just a hobby anymore, it's a passion. Your videos have helped me discover more things about this passion. Thanks for making all those videos you make. You deserve every sub you have
I'm so happy you started climbing, I think it's one of those activities where you hear people talk about falling in love with it, and you don't understand it until you try it. I hope you're staying healthy and safe and keep crushing it! :)
Of course ! I cannot wait for the gyms to open up again :3
I think unless in very high level competitions calling out dabs is silly and no one should care.
i think at the very highest level it should be irrelevant,, shows a lack of proper design from the "routesetters"
Yeah agreed. But it's nice to know you didn't technically finish the route because you used another hold. Just stay fair with yourself on that
@@BerrisGaming there's a pretty big difference between using another hold and just touching one
@@markkealy4417 Indeed, I've had some times where I accidentally hurt myself on a hold trying to grab another one too fast, I would not call that helping at all, so if I then still get the route I am not going to disqualify it just because of that.
Oh my goodness purist need to get overrrrr that bush 🙄
But the bush toootally woooooshed him up the route ._.
Heard some branches were part of the route.
They really just need to leave him alone and branch out some more.
I can understand it in some way because the bush stopped him a little bit swinging out to much/fast. You could argue that without the bush we would have fallen out, but yes, I agree that is stupid.
Bushes are aid
I would have to say the Ondra "dab" is probably the most famous dab....🤔
And also pretty BS at the same time. The way his foot is angled makes no sense when it comes to putting pressure on that bolt.
Adab ondra
you deserve way more than 10k!! love the content
No. let's indeed blame the route setters. Crap layout if there ever was. 04:01
I actually looked at climbing a route in north Wales where the guidebook suggested that a tree may need to be used to do the route. Not sure where your integrity lies if the guidebook suggests the dab.
That's funny, my Alberta Bouldering Guidebook has a similar one, where it rates the routes a V3 if you use the tree for assistance (it's really close to the boulder, hard not to hit your back on) while a V5 without touching the tree as it requires a much trickier move to stay close enough to the wall to avoid the tree. I think that's a better option, basically progression difficulties.
If over half of the people dab when doing a bolder. That bolder shouldn't count. It's clearly a bad bolder. In fact from their ankle they can't see the black tape and had no way of remembering that it wraps around
Hey, your videos alone made me interested in rock climbing. You're doin a great job my man.
love the CLG dab reference😂
Great video as always, thanks. In competitive trials riding dabs are permitted but cause penalty points. Not suggesting it for climbing, but it's interesting to compare. If you've not seen trials riding id certainly recommend checking it out, it's highly entertaining and really quite similar to climbing, just on a weird motorbike. A search for FIM x-trial should get you going.
I actually dabbed while bouldering yesterday, when trying to reposition my foot my hand slipped and I fell, nearly hitting my face against the wall. I knew immediately I messed up but it made me all the more determined to try again, this is why I have become so addicted to climbing the determination is fierce. I am also still a beginner but I hope to better my technic as I continue into this sport
I'd say if the banner is in a place that someone can push off on it, then it shouldn't be a dab. They have a whole massive wall to put those banners on, if you put it where the climbers might put their feet, thats the organizers bad.
great video! PS: the term "dab" clearly comes from Trails Riding, as with off-road motorcycles, where touching a foot to the ground anywhere on the course is called a "dab" and costs a point.
2:56 That is some shite route setting. Some guy: doesn't matter, it's the ladies route.
Nice video as always and congrats on approaching 10k subs!!
The bush dab is ridiculous. What makes me mad is the advertising on the literal routes. Take that trash off or let them smear on it, geez
i have no idea why i love watching climbing so much, i tried it and was just way too scared of the rope breaking maybe i should try again been a while, your channel is really entertaining and nice to me keep it up
Maybe try bouldering first? I was pretty scared even while bouldering (being 3-4m up was nothing I was used to), but the fear just goes down over time as the confidence increases. I also did lots of training in jumping down.
@@Bloxeh i might try doing something like that, i've been doing a lot more things overtime like mountain biking etc
@@wilihey1425 Oh, that's cool! I started watching Sam Pilgrim videos and feeling the itch to try mountain biking too, but I'd probably hurt myself. I stick with bouldering for now 👍
@@Bloxeh i think its a really amazing sport climbing too etc, sport really makes you happy and more stable in your day to day life, good luck on everything friend and stay safe
@@wilihey1425 That's true! I'm happy I finally found my way to sport. All the best for you!
I just want to comment on the first competition Boulder you show. Great example but the problem here is the really badly designed problem.
I’m a low level climber but I just go based off of if I think I would have still been able to complete it without that dab. If yes than I’m cool with a little touch
I have dabbed before many times as an intermediate climber, and I do feel like doing it as an accident is fine, and it helps make me more conscious of what my whole body is doing and be able to control my movements a lot better. Knowing that I have dabbed on routes whether for fun or for comp is good in the end because it gives me the incentive to really focus on my problem areas where I had to use an additional hold to send a route.
I can understand the first example. Try this hard climb, outside the tape is out of bounds. Makes sense, keeps the challenge the same for everyone. I don't understand the second example as being wrong. Here are a bunch of things to grab on to for your climb use which ever you want. What does it matter if you use it for a strong hold point, or just use it for a moment? I'm not a climber, am I missing something here?
Really digging your videos! Educational and entertaining.
If I touch anything thats part of another problem and still send, I just feel as if I've cheated. I don't mind it if others dab though.
In that first competition clip, that's just bad setting. The completely natural balancing thing to do for the final hold is to place your foot where all the climbers did. It's just silly to put tape in such a place, especially since it's the finish - all the setters are doing is make the finish awkward and uncomfortable.
I'm a very good member of my local gym because I make sure to call out other people when they accidentally dab when climbing for fun (:
Haha lol
Is that better or worse than being the beta sprayer that can't climb any of the betas they suggest?
It does seem silly that you can use the seams in the walls, but you cant touch the logo - which i think is just paint? (eg: 4:30)
It's one of those "it is what it is" kind of rules I guess
It's a kind of really strong hash and it's hard to climb that stoned. We couldn't even get our shoes on. I can't imagine dabbing and competing, that's hard core.
Brutal. Cracks the hopes and dreams twice.
Been climbing for 25 years.........first time I hear of this DAB 😁
At 2:00, that’s just a horribly planned route
how i see it...if some one dab like that make ur coarse better...like putting the metal clip on the other side of the wall and cord though so there not a ledge.
I enjoyed the painter analogy 😃 Great vid, as always Albert.
your content is truly amazing ! keep it up boi !
Route setters should take responsibility and make sure there are no opportunities for dabs in a serious competition.
True, but sometimes it's a hard job because there's things that they don't expect to be a problem during forerunning (practicing the climbs before the competition) so accidents like these do happen!
@@AlbertOkay they're world class routesetters setting for world class climbers. We should expect better.
We miss climbing with you Albert and calling out all your dabs! 😉
I miss you too...I'LL COME BACK AND CLIMB WITH YOU GUYS SOMEDAY!!!
I feel like it shouldn’t count against you if you don’t put weight on it and therefore use it to advance you. Thoughts?
Pretty much anyone reasonable agrees. Anyone who's climbed slab knows how easy it is to scrum up and over a hold that isn't yours, and how much that can hinder you. Imagine doing a pistol squat and having your toe catch something as you try to push up - makes it just that much harder for what is already a really hard move for most people.
You also don't see that outside, so it's not a skill you can expect climber's to develop naturally making it even less reasonable to me.
If more than one person makes the same mistake, it should be considered the routesetter's fault not the climber's
Glitch in the matrix at 5:25
Thank you, Albert! Have an amazing day, man!
The brush is part of the boulder.
I tend to use holds on purpose, so I know if I've used something I shouldn't. I usually just drop off the climb at that point. Where someone watching sees my foot get purchase on a hold I shouldn't use, they'll definitely tell me, and I agree with them. I'll never do competition, but I like the idea that I've climbed a route properly. Clean start, not a jump assist, get to the top and touch it stable. I have a rule that if I haven't climbed it twice, then I can't say I can climb it. I hate fluking a climb.
Thanks for your sharing 👍
To be honest, I find it quite annoying when you have a different colored part where just the wall(not even a block) being there would have helped to stabilize
Really interesting video! It would be cool to see what other youtube climbers think. Magnus (at least in boldering for fun) counts the send if touching another hold didn't help you.
lol at 5.27 it repeats itself. but great video
Whoops
Keep these awesome videos coming!!!
Okay that Tape around the corner on the first competition example is just weird design
congrats on 10K my man :)
Yeah.... In Ondra's case I don't think any DAB actually cracked his hopes and dreams but for less reknown athletes I can see that being very significant.
They should have other opportunities though.
Not a dab but what about the tendency I've seen for climbers to use other holds to get into the starting position. The way learned is you only get the start hold(s) + feet
In competition that wouldn't be allowed, but I guess if it's in a gym it's up to the climber's diligence to determine if it's a dab or not!
That's when ya yell, "Dab Gommit!"
That 2015 Toronto WC was the worst. It was so stupid and made me so mad.
Wish I could contribute as being a new subscriber to get you to 10k but i’ve already been subscribed for quite a while, still liking and commenting for the algorithm.
please let that shit be in 2015
The worst is when you try to kick the wall and hit a hold doing the same thing you mean't to do but invalidating the climb
I'm sure BD love having there athlete getting in trouble for touching there banner. I dont understand how using bold holes and cracks in the panels is legal but that's not. They need to make that a sticker.
I bet if we threatened to boycott companies that get dabbed they would make the signs less dabbable
5:25 + 5:34
Dabbing, or the dab, is a simple gesture in which a person drops their head into the bent crook of a slanted, upwardly angled arm, while raising the opposite arm out straight in a parallel direction. This appeared in the full length video of Michael Jackson’s Smooth Criminal at 8 mins 23 seconds though Michael is rarely credited with its creation. Since 2015, dabbing has been used as a gesture of triumph or playfulness, becoming a youthful fad and Internet meme.[1] The move looks similar to someone sneezing into the crook of their elbow.
I wonder if the word "dab" is borrowed from motorcycle trials riding?
(See for example the scoring rules here: kingphiliptrailriders.com/PDF_files/CHEKRULE6.pdf )
It seems to be pretty much the exact same meaning. And I think that trials riding significantly predates _competitive_ bouldering.
Dang that's interesting. I'll look into it!
Hey i think i saw you at one of the summit gyms are you from Dfw? If so i would love to climb sometime! Also keep up the great vids!
I used to climb there, but not anymore. I moved out to Colorado!
Congrats on 10K! 👏🤩 Funny mention of other “dab”-that thingy move across your chest/face. 😂 I think your statement is fair that you have to be honest to yourself about “climbing dabs”. Having experienced being a U.S.A. Climbing judge for Youth ABS Regionals, it’s heartbreaking to tell a young climber they have to do it again bcoz of an unintentional dab that I know did not help in the original send. Perhaps the best way to avoid it is not have climbing zone tape, compact comp walls, or have marketing banners in sport climbing? The rules were set up for a reason, but perhaps a review board should be considered for practicality of latitude, aka, dual judge assessment? I had a second judge with me, since he was more experienced and we conferred about dabs; we both agreed some are blatant cheats some are negligible/inadvertent. 🧐
Great video!
Not bash the route setters? That’s a fucking bad mistake, and may have affected the overall performance of the women’s bouldering results.
While I agree with honesty and integrity being appropriate for recreational climbing, in high level competition there needs to be a better system. Does anyone know how the Olympics were going to handle it? These kinds of issues can really sour a competition.
So far as I know I think they're going to go by similar of not the same rules as IFSC has created. It'll still be strict, but I think they're going to look ahead of time to prevent posters and bolts from cutting Olympic dreams short
Two years later we know they'll handle it so poorly they'll grade boulderers on speed climbing ability.
@@themurderofcoke lol yep, this issue paled in comparison to the bigger much more meaningful complaints
I think you have recorded same phrase twice and did not edit :)
7:18 to 7:28
Also at 5:25
There should be a certain amount of leniency indoors because of hold density (touching the ground in a different story). Outdoors, on the other hand, it is often very difficult to ascertain whether a dab has helped keep you on the rock, and everyone knows claiming an ascent after a dab (however small) is a complete sin. Dab on rock = back around punter.
Surely sometimes though, as with that brush, you can't really help it outdoors? If there's a shrub growing where your body naturally goes it's not as if you can remove the shrub, and it's more likely to be uncomfortable than helpful on your climb anyway...
@@mayawitters If you can't complete a climb without swinging into a bush then that's unfortunate, but it is still a dab. In this instance I can see an obvious sequence bringing your feet up into the break below the roof which would totally avoid having to cut loose. It would take more core tension, but if you are avoiding a sequence because it's harder in favor of one which is easier with a dab then you do not deserve the ascent.
It's impossible to tell how much a dab helps at the best of times, which is why the blanket rule of a dab invalidating an ascent is applied.
@@arthurv8905 imagine caring this much about how others live. It's not like any of us are paubing first ascents, were all doing long established glassy routes done thousands of times before. Sure, maybe it matters if you're claiming an FA or a V14+ but that's literally 1% of climbers.
@@themurderofcoke thanks for necroing this thread. You are watching a video about dabbing in climbing, and complaining that someone has an opinion about dabbing in climbing? What did you expect when you clicked? Also, don't assume that all anyone climbs are "long established glassy routes done thousands of times before". Some of us enjoy problems which aren't polished roadside honeypots. A dab is a dab no matter whether you are on a 6A or a 9A. If you claim a dabbed ascent then fine, you do you, but do that in the knowledge that almost everyone else who did the route before you did it clean. It will always be a dabbed ascent of a route which you were very capable of doing clean.
dabs should be a part of the competition, why dont they build the courses around them?? if certain holds are "special" and shouldnt be allowed, then why would they even be there accidentally?
the brush adding assistance? the bait is strong....
Subscribed
honestly? If touching another hold gives you no advantage over just smearing the wall, what's the point. Or if your foot brushes over the ground in a low altitude dyno, it doesn't help you in any way, if anything it can actually pull you off the wall by catching your momentum, so why would it be so bad?
bad route setting. no boulder would have no other side.
If climbers regularly go out of bounds it's entirely the routesetter's fault.
i loved the vid
how did i miss this Channel?!??!
my climbing gym's motto is "If you are not cheating, you are not trying hard enough."
DAB - Dyno All Boulders
I'm sorry the squidward one misses out hugely without the sound.
This video was so upsetting to watch :( Thank you so much Albert, hands down my favourite climbing channel on TH-cam!
texas LEGEND
I am color blind. In my first (and only) climbing competition in my local club I thought I accumulated enough points in the qualy to reach the finale only to hear I'd been dsq'd for a dab
Yeah, using color coding is really easy and very natural to many of us, but quite exclusionary to some. I'd argue against using it in competitions altogether, and just having "anything goes" with whatever is available for the climbers to reach. Reward creative thinking, force the route-setters create less artificial problems.
In training, some walls have started using lights to indicate routes, which should be more helpful. They, of course, more costly than simply color-coding them, so I imagine the problem will persist in most smaller climbing gyms.
@@c99kfm That's very cool but it is a lot of work to completely strip your wall and only set competitive routes when the wall is also used for introductory trainings and casual climbing. Secondly it's all done by volunteers so I understand how things are done.
@@mkhtel Just got this video in my feed:
th-cam.com/video/f6snHLmAOHI/w-d-xo.html
I was waiting for the outro song :(
Same here 🤣🤣🤣
I dab on them crimps all the time. I can't help if they get in the way.
Tell em'!
is that some CR lofi to chill and doodle to?
Yes!
I think if you're climbing and can climb your climbing. I'm disabled now so I live through others. What you are calling dab I call natural instincts
A little dab'll do ya.
The commentator sounds like Preston plays
Did I stutter
mhhh dabing - another point on the list of disadvantages when you are tall :D
Awww, I really love your videos.
Q&A: what about running out of time while doing a boulder problem at the competitions? I mean: your time is up but you're still hanging on the holds. Do you can keep trying to finish it? Or do you have to stop, jump off and leave? I'm asking because of situation with Vasya Vorotnikov (it starts somewhere 1:43:40) th-cam.com/video/l51KxaPHsEw/w-d-xo.html
Best wishes and thank you for your work :)
(disclaimer, I don't follow competition super closely) Originally, in the IFSC if you were on the wall as the clock hit 0, it would be considered last try and you could take conceivably as long as you want.
I believe in 2017/18 they changed the rule to keep competitions more tv friendly
@@markwatson6840 thank you very much for answer!
Mark down replied with my answer, a few years back they had a rule that if you jumped on the problem before the clock ended you could finish your attempt, however now at exactly 4min they will call you off. A huge reason is that people took way too long sometimes and it was better for production value to have a set time of how long the competition would run.
@@AlbertOkay I loved the old rule. Way more exciting. I guess production value is subjective. If the comp took all day to run because of climbers still on the wall I'd be happy.
@@gimmepowder Haha yeah, I miss the old rule. But in preparation for the olympics and people who aren't climbers we just have to concede some of the fun things that happened before. I do know that allot of smaller comps still have the 4min+rule and those comps are really exciting to watch!
That pink climb around 3 minutes was so poorly constructed... The setters should be ashamed
Yeah, the accidental dab in lead comp is brutal. You're totally fucked.
At least in boulder you get to try again...
climbing is climbing, any solution can be part of a skill set