My first time trying to solder anything. And I bought this cable without realizing it was not normal. All the other videos are showing 3 wires, and I'm starting to freak out. Thank you for posting this one.
I've got a question - when you screw in the final plastic thing that holds it all together don't you worry that you're twisting the cable you just soldered in place?
Thanks so much for making this video! Just curious once you’ve taken the solder iron away from the joint and you’re holding the wire to let the joint cool down, I have trouble keeping the wire perfectly still. It tends to wiggle around ever so slightly sometimes causing a cold solder joint. How do you prevent this from happening? Thanks!
Hey Bill! Grab a good set of “helping hands” I love the Quad Hands brand. I am happy to be a non paid ambassador for those guys. That unit is such a life saver for me. You can buy direct from them or through Amazon. Here is my page for shameless sales. Check out this page from billylaguardia www.amazon.com/shop/billylaguardia?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_aipsfshop_aipsfbillylaguardia_1TMNPXWVZ330KY6F5AZV&language=en_US
Thanks so much for the quick reply and the link! I use a vice which works well. Still just curious no matter what one uses, can the slight movement when one is holding the wire to let it cool possibly cause a cold solder joint? Thanks!
@@billguitarvin Depending on what you are soldering - try to use more solder. I try to use as much as possible. If the wire moves a little it will be more forgiving since its completely enveloped. Using the XLR connector in the video as an example, all the cups were as filled as they could be. Helping hands are useful as you can hold the wire in place with the helping hands. The problem with doing it bare handed is that the wire heats up. I solder by hand every day, so my hands are used to the heat so I dont have to use the helping hands in this way.
Once again, thanks Billy for the quick reply! Thanks too for the tip about filling the soldering cup with solder so if the wire wiggles a bit, the joint will be more forgiving. Also thanks for the helpful tip to have one helping hand hold the wire and another helping hand hold the XLR, eliminating the need to have one hand holding the wire. I’ve wondered how people can hold the wire while soldering because, like you mentioned, that wire gets hot. Ouch! Thanks for answering that as well. All the best to you and take care!
Any thoughts on why there is what appears to be a solder lug on the button spring part of the female Neutrik NC3FXX? It looks to me like it is supposed to add shielding to the outer housing, but I'm not sure.
@@billylaguardia Bien. Perfecto, yo me preguntaba lo mismo. Si quiero hacer una caja con una entrada y varias salidas, para conectar varias etapas de potencia PA. Habría alguna manera de simular en el Interior una tierra ? Con resistencias, bobinas, metales o algo así...para esa conexión extra de la hembra Neutrik.
@@Hermiel I have been in your shoes. Here is a video on the differences. I know it’s a little late! th-cam.com/video/sPqWBUOYoAA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EmDM-X4nsstxRNju
@@billylaguardia No, the truth is that the AT version wouldn't suit me for studio mic and line audio cables, which is most of what I use it for. Also, I commented on that video about 6 months ago ;). Also also, these days, for installation (i.e. pulling through walls, conduit etc), at least in HOW and commercial installations I use shielded Cat.5 or Cat.6. Audio performance is every bit as good (or better than) as the best snake cable and it's cheaper and easier to pull. I terminate the ethernet cable to PCBs that convert 8P8C modular jack to screw terminals, which I break out to XLR or whatever I need. Works a treat! Also³, My favorite mic cable these days is GAC3 from Gotham Audio. Brilliant stuff. Easy to terminate, excellent noise rejection and it feels great in the hand.
Just being lazy! They changed the jacketing on the install version of the cable which has the foil instead of the braided shielding. I used to just use the install cable for everything since it’s way easier to build. Now I have to actually follow the rules and use the proper cable for the proper application!! 😂
My first time trying to solder anything. And I bought this cable without realizing it was not normal. All the other videos are showing 3 wires, and I'm starting to freak out. Thank you for posting this one.
I'm not a Catholic but when you said your soldering iron was six hundred degrees I was all like HOLY MOTHER OF GOD!!!
I've got a question - when you screw in the final plastic thing that holds it all together don't you worry that you're twisting the cable you just soldered in place?
@@bingoflangeworthy the plastic strain relief doesn’t spin. There is a groove that it locks into in the pin portion of the connector.
Thanks so much for making this video! Just curious once you’ve taken the solder iron away from the joint and you’re holding the wire to let the joint cool down, I have trouble keeping the wire perfectly still. It tends to wiggle around ever so slightly sometimes causing a cold solder joint. How do you prevent this from happening? Thanks!
Hey Bill! Grab a good set of “helping hands” I love the Quad Hands brand. I am happy to be a non paid ambassador for those guys. That unit is such a life saver for me. You can buy direct from them or through Amazon. Here is my page for shameless sales. Check out this page from billylaguardia www.amazon.com/shop/billylaguardia?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_aipsfshop_aipsfbillylaguardia_1TMNPXWVZ330KY6F5AZV&language=en_US
Thanks so much for the quick reply and the link! I use a vice which works well. Still just curious no matter what one uses, can the slight movement when one is holding the wire to let it cool possibly cause a cold solder joint? Thanks!
@@billguitarvin Depending on what you are soldering - try to use more solder. I try to use as much as possible. If the wire moves a little it will be more forgiving since its completely enveloped. Using the XLR connector in the video as an example, all the cups were as filled as they could be. Helping hands are useful as you can hold the wire in place with the helping hands. The problem with doing it bare handed is that the wire heats up. I solder by hand every day, so my hands are used to the heat so I dont have to use the helping hands in this way.
Once again, thanks Billy for the quick reply! Thanks too for the tip about filling the soldering cup with solder so if the wire wiggles a bit, the joint will be more forgiving. Also thanks for the helpful tip to have one helping hand hold the wire and another helping hand hold the XLR, eliminating the need to have one hand holding the wire. I’ve wondered how people can hold the wire while soldering because, like you mentioned, that wire gets hot. Ouch! Thanks for answering that as well. All the best to you and take care!
Thanks for the video! I suppose you mean 600 degrees Fahrenheit?
Correct.
Any thoughts on why there is what appears to be a solder lug on the button spring part of the female Neutrik NC3FXX? It looks to me like it is supposed to add shielding to the outer housing, but I'm not sure.
It’s there if you want to ground the connector chassis. You can either tie it to pin 1 or use a separate conductor.
@@billylaguardia Bien. Perfecto, yo me preguntaba lo mismo.
Si quiero hacer una caja con una entrada y varias salidas, para conectar varias etapas de potencia PA. Habría alguna manera de simular en el Interior una tierra ?
Con resistencias, bobinas, metales o algo así...para esa conexión extra de la hembra Neutrik.
I love L-4E6S but sometimes I wish it came with a serparate drain wire so that I could just cut away the braid because it's a bear to prep.
Agreed. That’s why I use the L-4E5AT install version as much as possible.
@@billylaguardia I should have thought of that before I bought a spool of L-4E6S 😂
@@Hermiel I have been in your shoes. Here is a video on the differences. I know it’s a little late! th-cam.com/video/sPqWBUOYoAA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EmDM-X4nsstxRNju
@@billylaguardia No, the truth is that the AT version wouldn't suit me for studio mic and line audio cables, which is most of what I use it for.
Also, I commented on that video about 6 months ago ;).
Also also, these days, for installation (i.e. pulling through walls, conduit etc), at least in HOW and commercial installations I use shielded Cat.5 or Cat.6. Audio performance is every bit as good (or better than) as the best snake cable and it's cheaper and easier to pull. I terminate the ethernet cable to PCBs that convert 8P8C modular jack to screw terminals, which I break out to XLR or whatever I need. Works a treat!
Also³, My favorite mic cable these days is GAC3 from Gotham Audio. Brilliant stuff. Easy to terminate, excellent noise rejection and it feels great in the hand.
What's The difference between the FXX and the MXX Connectors
The FXX is the female XLR, the MXX is the male XLR.
Any reason you don't unbraid the shield all the way back other than it being a pain in the ass?
Just being lazy! They changed the jacketing on the install version of the cable which has the foil instead of the braided shielding. I used to just use the install cable for everything since it’s way easier to build. Now I have to actually follow the rules and use the proper cable for the proper application!! 😂
god job..!
Ха-ха. Здесь показано как НЕ следует делать. Позолоченные контакты предварительно лудить не надо, а царапать их "крокодилом" это преступление. Ужасно.
A man with the name LaGuardia can't pronounce the name Canare right? Hmm!
Yes. The Italian man can not pronounce the Japanese name correctly.