Greetings John, When our creator handed patience, you must be in front of the line. Excellent fabrication continuous. Loved the A/C vents, bodywork and the rear inner body panels. Looking forward for the next episode.
When I shaved the drip rails on my '70 C10, I wanted a little bit of a rail and a stronger edge. I used 1/4" round rod and welded it into place via tack and move. Once done, I used a grinder to smooth and meld the ends to the sheet metal so that the rail sort of melted into/out of the body. You end up doing a lot of tack and move and inside edge grinding/sanding on the top side, but it gives a nice smooth look and a little drip protection when you roll the window down.
Always amazing to see an “old-school” craftsman with a “perfectionist/engineer” mind shoot a POV video, and explain things in layman’s terms for the rest of us tech’ slags…😂
John, Thank you for making time to put another episode together about the Corvair. Very fun & entertaining! I want the episode to go on for hours. In addition, the two A/C vents are just right, mate!
Hello John, I’ve seen many guys in the custom car world use 1/4” rod blended in when cutting the roof rails off to help maintain the integrity. Hope this helps, food for thought.
When I built my `66 Corsa Crown conversion 45 years ago, I had similar issues. Wound up putting 53 patches in that body, sorta the way you did, except I brazed everything. Turned out pretty good though, considering that I was by no stretch a body & fender guy....Your work is exceptional !
.023 with 75/25 makes patch panels much easier. I'm not in love with the a/c vents. I wouldn't offer that opinion, except you asked, because they match in with the interior well.
Those embossed panels just fascinate me. I learned to use lead in Bodywork at trade school back in the seventies. I repaired the rust on Judge Hooper’s 30’s Mercedes with lead just in time for the annual parade. For a wild young hippie in a town of three traffic lights, scoring points with the Judge was invaluable. Happily that was the last Lead job I did. Last of the Mohicans as it were. Cheers John. Fun stuff as usual.
I owned and drove three Corvair coupes in the 80s and 90s. I loved everything about them except for the maintenance, washing (sharp corners and difficult access), repairs, rust control, horsepower, heater and ground clearance. Mileage was good (28-34mpg)! I love your attention to detail and your quality workmanship, but I said "eek!" when you tore into the A-pillar rot. Been there!
My OCD would have spent 90 hours to roll the divider rib in the aluminum panels to match the roll bar radius...which would have added greatly to my alum recycle bin.😆
nice work, yes 0.23 would be better on bodywork, and the A pillar, where you cut at 90 degrees to the pillar, for strength it's better to cut diagonally across, early on in my career l had a job welding crashed cars back together completely legit all inspected by inspector that we had to pass, one of my first l was advised that the joints would be stronger had l cut on a diagonal and joined the joints, also some additional material added, and plug welded above, and below the joints.
Tip If you’re going to use bondo on areas that used lead, use quality fibre reinforced dondo and make sure it has a good key into the metal. Due to body flex cracks will form in the finished paint if you use ordinary bondo . How do I know? Been there done that wasted hours on redoing it.
OK... I got a John Reynolds video for my Birthday... well tomorrow but it is within the cone of uncertainty. imho - I think the vents might be sticking out too far. But I will defer to the master metal basher.
im doing a restoration on a Porsche 356a and the metal is abysmally pitted over every inch of the surface so all my welds look like those. and I cant just "replace" the bad metal because that would literally be the entire car and the owner wants "original metal" so im only patching what I absolutely have to and he can feel free to spend out the ass for it because we bill by the hour. the original metal is so bad and pitted that its effectively only a third as dense as it should be so it constantly blows out when I try to weld to it even on my lowest settings and what doesnt blow out pops and explodes because of contaminated literally embedded in the metal. anyways my point being people can shit talk booger welds all they want but they dont understand what its like working on old sheet metal. its also very good practice for my 63 corvair sitting at the back of the shop lol.
6:59 what does a reamer with a blocked off end mean and do? This looks like it would solve so many issues I've had in the past, but I would naively set the depth manually.
I don't know if you've seen the rest of the dash, but protrudes past the vents. The other thing is I have to keep moving forward or this thing will never get done. I get what you are saying though.
John loves your videos but PLEASE move slightly away from the mic, it will help with audio quality/enjoyment. It's quite a problem (for me) in the beginning with constant exhale blowouts.
John, you make my day when I see you have a new video. I love your craftsmanship and humor. Thanks so much!!!!
I like John's workmanship. His commentary is exemplary.
Greetings John, When our creator handed patience, you must be in front of the line. Excellent fabrication continuous. Loved the A/C vents, bodywork and the rear inner body panels. Looking forward for the next episode.
You are a true artist. If you lived in the 1500s, you see would be sculpting in marble.
I was thinking of a different century and the Sistine Chapel!!
When I shaved the drip rails on my '70 C10, I wanted a little bit of a rail and a stronger edge. I used 1/4" round rod and welded it into place via tack and move. Once done, I used a grinder to smooth and meld the ends to the sheet metal so that the rail sort of melted into/out of the body. You end up doing a lot of tack and move and inside edge grinding/sanding on the top side, but it gives a nice smooth look and a little drip protection when you roll the window down.
Always amazing to see an “old-school” craftsman with a “perfectionist/engineer” mind shoot a POV video, and explain things in layman’s terms for the rest of us tech’ slags…😂
John, Thank you for making time to put another episode together about the Corvair. Very fun & entertaining! I want the episode to go on for hours. In addition, the two A/C vents are just right, mate!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Alas my favorite Corvair, delighted with each episode!!!
Consider peel-n-stick foam padding on the back of those aluminum panels if the resonance is too loud.
Hello John, I’ve seen many guys in the custom car world use 1/4” rod blended in when cutting the roof rails off to help maintain the integrity. Hope this helps, food for thought.
I've heard that too. I may still do it that way.
Nicely done, John, but I was hoping for more bracketry.
When I built my `66 Corsa Crown conversion 45 years ago, I had similar issues. Wound up putting 53 patches in that body, sorta the way you did, except I brazed everything. Turned out pretty good though, considering that I was by no stretch a body & fender guy....Your work is exceptional !
I'm thinking the dash vents will blend in after all the other interior pieces are installed. More stellar fab work.
excellent fab work there Mr R.
John for a French Horn player you sure can do metal work. This coming from a lifetime tinsmith.
.023 with 75/25 makes patch panels much easier.
I'm not in love with the a/c vents. I wouldn't offer that opinion, except you asked, because they match in with the interior well.
When I see a new episode, I quickly click on and am instantly happpy!
This is such an awesome project! Thanks for sharing the progress John.
Thanks for watching!
Rust is a four letter word for sure. Impressive as always!
I’m going to be doing some work like this on my vintage XJ soon. Thanks for the inspiration and information. 🫡
Those embossed panels just fascinate me. I learned to use lead in Bodywork at trade school back in the seventies.
I repaired the rust on Judge Hooper’s 30’s Mercedes with lead just in time for the annual parade.
For a wild young hippie in a town of three traffic lights, scoring points with the Judge was invaluable.
Happily that was the last Lead job I did. Last of the Mohicans as it were. Cheers John. Fun stuff as usual.
I got one of them spacing tools after seeing the one Camo had.
That Corvair is coming along, nice to see you get rid of that rust, quite a bit there.
So many nice additions, very nice work John.
Cheers 👍💪✌
Those rear hidden compartments are a smugglers dream. Great patience John.
That Alloy dashboard would look absolutely stunning Anodised Red it's a really nice bit of fabrication. Excellent work.
very good job John 👍💪
I owned and drove three Corvair coupes in the 80s and 90s. I loved everything about them except for the maintenance, washing (sharp corners and difficult access), repairs, rust control, horsepower, heater and ground clearance. Mileage was good (28-34mpg)!
I love your attention to detail and your quality workmanship, but I said "eek!" when you tore into the A-pillar rot. Been there!
Lookin' good John! I like the vents!
A man can never have enough angle grinders!
He needs more than just one angle!! LOL
You are a outstanding craftsman. Thank you for you vids
Love your work and how you present it.
John you’re the best! Love your vids and of course all your cars n all the mods!👍👍👍🤓😎👴🏻
Thanks 👍
Vents look cool. 💪👍🏼
My OCD would have spent 90 hours to roll the divider rib in the aluminum panels to match the roll bar radius...which would have added greatly to my alum recycle bin.😆
That was an option for me too. The angle is 20 deg on the roll bar which is the same for the divider ridge only opposite. Now it looks like an X.
@@JohnReynolds661 youtube keeps deleting my comments, making it impossible to have any meaningful dialog or add any value to your channel.
Always awesome to see your work - which I've been following since the old Pirate days. Thanks for documenting :fangers:
nice work, yes 0.23 would be better on bodywork, and the A pillar, where you cut at 90 degrees to the pillar, for strength it's better to cut diagonally across, early on in my career l had a job welding crashed cars back together completely legit all inspected by inspector that we had to pass, one of my first l was advised that the joints would be stronger had l cut on a diagonal and joined the joints, also some additional material added, and plug welded above, and below the joints.
Love your channel.
I haven’t watched it yet, but it is already exciting!
Beautiful work.
Looking great! Thanks for taking us along.
The only question I have about removing the drop rails is the added opening compared to the Windows.
Awesome project and I like your vents you just did 😊
Outstanding! No complaints on the A/C vents. Everything looks fantastic.
Such an artist with metal. Great job
Thanks for the post,you're always a good source for construction ideas🤗😎🤗😎
Another great video. Thank you.
Another great video of some stellar results. Very inspirational.
Nice work, John!😊
Awesome work!
Great job on the vents!
Thank you, John. I really enjoy your videos!
Impressive, very impressive.
Rock on brother
Thank you for this video it's just a pleasure to watch !!😒👍
Great stuff John
Totally agree with the 20 year plan
John, the AC vents protrudes too far from the dash.
i think i woulda make the tube shorter so it dosent stick out as much from the dash
Tip
If you’re going to use bondo on areas that used lead, use quality fibre reinforced dondo and make sure it has a good key into the metal.
Due to body flex cracks will form in the finished paint if you use ordinary bondo .
How do I know?
Been there done that wasted hours on redoing it.
Thanks, I was planning on using fiber reinforced bondo in some areas.
Superb.
OK... I got a John Reynolds video for my Birthday... well tomorrow but it is within the cone of uncertainty. imho - I think the vents might be sticking out too far. But I will defer to the master metal basher.
Happy birthday!
@@rjung_ch Thank you. It was good one!
cool build
Love this show!
I cracked up when you said show, thanks!
Use titanium-powder based body filler such as Evercoat's "Metal-2-Metal" rather than bondo.
Mig welds look a little rough. Might be the rust or a kinked liner hampering the wire.
A cooler would be nice behind those panels....
Me too!
Great!
John you are way above my pay grade. Where are the links tat were supposed to be in the description?
Thanks for letting me know about the missing links. I don't know what happened but they are back up now.
@@JohnReynolds661 👍
Great work as usual, thanks for the video :) Looks like your VIN plate was relocated?
I took it off to paint the body but plan to rivet it back on after. Good catch.
im doing a restoration on a Porsche 356a and the metal is abysmally pitted over every inch of the surface so all my welds look like those. and I cant just "replace" the bad metal because that would literally be the entire car and the owner wants "original metal" so im only patching what I absolutely have to and he can feel free to spend out the ass for it because we bill by the hour.
the original metal is so bad and pitted that its effectively only a third as dense as it should be so it constantly blows out when I try to weld to it even on my lowest settings and what doesnt blow out pops and explodes because of contaminated literally embedded in the metal.
anyways my point being people can shit talk booger welds all they want but they dont understand what its like working on old sheet metal. its also very good practice for my 63 corvair sitting at the back of the shop lol.
Thanks for the detailed reply. It's a great feeling when an actual weld puddle forms instead of a blow out which leads to chasing the blow out.
Please note: hit like b4 watching!
Since you asked, I think the vents stick out way too far.
6:59 what does a reamer with a blocked off end mean and do? This looks like it would solve so many issues I've had in the past, but I would naively set the depth manually.
I don't love the vents. Is there enough room behind that they could they be fully recessed?
I don't know if you've seen the rest of the dash, but protrudes past the vents. The other thing is I have to keep moving forward or this thing will never get done. I get what you are saying though.
John loves your videos but PLEASE move slightly away from the mic, it will help with audio quality/enjoyment. It's quite a problem (for me) in the beginning with constant exhale blowouts.
Hmm, I didn't notice it. Being a musician, I pay attention to audio sound quality. I'll use a pop filter next time.
@@JohnReynolds661 Thank you
Did you delete the A pillar foam
No, it will help seal air from getting through. But I did seal up the holes that caused the water problem.
Nothing you do is stupid….😎
Where have you been?!?!