In this video I planned on doing a cost breakdown and explaining what I would do differently if I were to build it again, but I forgot to, so I’ll just do it here. I know it’s long but it’s worth reading if you are seriously thinking about building a bike like this. Some things to consider before we get into it: Make sure to watch the first video about this bike before reading this list, because there are some parts that I didn’t mention in this video. I tried to include shipping wherever possible. The AliExpress costs are approximate because that website is always doing fake sales and normal sales so it's hard to pinpoint an exact price. If it’s your first time buying from a store it will probably give you a "welcome deal”, which is a really good discount. For most of the smaller parts I bought more than what was required for this build, but I still added the whole cost to the total cost of this build. I could probably find the exact number of parts that I used for a bit cheaper, but that’s not very realistic. If you plan on doing the copper-nickel sandwich technique with 0.2mm copper like I did, you will need a very powerful spot welder. Mine is a K-Weld bought from Grid Rewired powered by a 4p3s headway pack with cells bought from batteryhookup. It was around $500 in all so make sure to factor that into the cost. You could probably buy one for cheaper that would do it, but I wanted the best possible spot welder. If you live in Australia or the UK or some other far-off land, please don’t ask me where you can source any of these parts, especially battery cells. I don’t know because I’ve never had to buy these parts in your country. You are better off just doing a google search or looking on Reddit. (Just search “where to buy li-ion cells in [your country here] reddit” and you should get some results)
Cells - $235 (buy in boxes of 20 for cheaper price, I bought 6 for this battery because 6 * 35A = 210A so it was a perfect match for the BMS) batteryhookup.com/products/new-samsung-30t-21700-3000mah-35a-power-battery?variant=44210356584610 BMS - $80 (Make sure to follow the directions for wiring the balance leads, it’s a 7-21s BMS so two of the balance leads go to the same connection. It has the diagram on that listing. Also, I would recommend replacing the aluminum wires with copper wires.) batteryhookup.com/products/12v-lifepo4-smart-bms-w-low-temp-cutoff?variant=36287975522466 Shrink Wrap - $11 (I needed two feet of 410mm and two feet of 320mm. If you don’t know what size to buy, then read the description of the listing.) batteryhookup.com/collections/accessories/products/test?variant=43274653663394 Kapton Tape - $20 (I have two options for this one, and I have no idea how to estimate how much I used so I just put $20 to be safe) batteryhookup.com/collections/accessories/products/kapton-heat-tape-1-wide-or-2-wide-x-36-yards?variant=37889209434274 OR www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805580784009.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.79.61b71802ssV0Jn&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Nickel - $14 (I needed around 3.5m for a 6p20s battery, so the price is for 4 meters. Make sure to get the 22.7mm spacing, the 21.5mm spacing is for batteries with no spacers which I would not recommend. I chose the 0.15mm thickness because the thickness of the nickel doesn’t matter if you are doing the copper/nickel sandwich technique, but I would recommend getting the 0.2mm thickness if you are only doing nickel. It would probably be good for 15A per parallel cell.) www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805469007327.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.5.1630f19cBPJh7A&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Copper Strip - $18 (I bought the 0.2x14mm 10 meters, I used about 4.5 meters.) www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805680713794.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.13.1630f19cBPJh7A&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Cell Spacers - $47 (for this battery I only needed the 1x10 spacers, but there are lots of options on there. Don’t let the fake deal trick you, it’s still $47 for me and I already bought from them, so the welcome deal only saves you a few dollars.) www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805728492234.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.7.5a99f19cSVhS37&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Wire - $37 (I bought 10 AWG 25ft red 25ft black, I know it’s not available anymore but there are other options on Amazon) www.amazon.com/dp/B074S12G91?th=1 Connectors - $28 (I actually bought XT90 anti-spark connectors, but it turns out they don’t really work, the first time you connect them the resistor in the connector burns out so from that point on they might as well be normal connectors. I would recommend these connectors; I bought some and they seem high quality. They are also rated for way more current so I would have only needed one for this battery pack) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09G9T45WS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 XT60 Connectors - $10 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Now onto the bike: Frame - $370 (You can probably find it cheaper on aliexpress but I didn’t know that when I first built the bike) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CKSQ5P2G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Seat - $100 (once again, probably cheaper on aliexpress. I think the only reason it snapped was my brother looping the bike in the last video and me having to bend it back) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CDLXWFFN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Forks and Shock - $680 (If you plan on using a larger battery or you are heavier than me (175lbs) then you probably need stiffer suspension. If you do buy these make sure to get the one that has the forks and the shock.) www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804801913527.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.50051802EC0NON&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Motor Kit - $950 (I bought the one with the 5T motor for more torque and less top speed. I wouldn't recommend buying this kit for a few reasons. The first is that the motor is a clone of a QS205, and it can’t handle nearly as much power as a real QS205. The second is that the Sabvoton controller isn’t as good as a comparable fardriver controller. If I were to build this bike again, I would order a real QS205 either directly from the QS motor company or find a trusted seller on aliexpress. I would then buy a Fardriver from econiccycles, I’ve bought 5 fardrivers from them so far and they have all worked perfectly. If you do decide to order this kit, make sure to email their salesperson and ask to see all their options for the kit.) www.amazon.com/dp/B089NXMJW7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Front Tire - $300 (Same seller as the motor kit, so if you do decide to get that kit then talk to the salesperson and you can probably buy them together) www.amazon.com/dp/B089RDSHPT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Handlebars - $37 (I got the 720mm and didn’t cut them) www.amazon.com/dp/B0956QBZ9Q?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Stem - $10 www.amazon.com/dp/B071YV77R7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Chain - $18 www.amazon.com/dp/B001MXQHPG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Cranks - $43 (I purchaced the smallest length crank and smallest chainring because I knew I wasn’t ever going to pedal.) www.amazon.com/dp/B08HSLR7FS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&psc=1 Charger - $64 (It outputs 85v, I would recommend opening it up and turning the potentiometer inside it to reduce the output voltage to 83v for safety.) www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9ZQHNTR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Grips - $10 www.amazon.com/dp/B09Y4CH43Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Big Shrink Wrap - $10 (this is optional to cover up the orange motor cable) www.amazon.com/dp/B0919H9XQD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Pedals - $25 www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7MHSPZ6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Kickstand - $20 (just make sure to be careful, it can barely handle a bike this heavy) www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJB9ZBFL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 USB Panel Mount - $10 www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPZVMWV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Cable Glands - $15 (optional, I knew I was going to probably drive this in wet conditions, so I bought them.) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W9Q5HMH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 XT60 Panel Mount - $10 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C5X5Q1NN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Hubsinks - $100 (Probably wouldn't need them if you had a real QS motor) hubsink.com/products/heatsink?variant=25315587528 Statorade - $40 (goes with the hubsinks) hubsink.com/products/genuine-statorade-ferrofluid-australian-stock
TOTAL COST: ~$3,312 (This is the cost FOR ME, not for you if you wanted to build this bike the exact same way. I already had a $500 spot welder, a soldering iron, angle grinder, Dremel, welder etc.)
CONCLUSION: If I were to build this bike again, I would see if I could buy a pre-assembled bike from aliexpress/alibaba without a battery or controller and build a battery for it and buy a Fardriver controller for it. When you buy a bike from aliexpress/alibaba they have to ship the battery separately anyways so I’m sure they would sell just the bike. I would probably order it with street tires and try to ride it mostly on the road so I don’t destroy it in a month. I would probably do a 3.5T or 4T motor to have a higher top speed and build a battery with at least 40Ah capacity and 200A discharge current. This bike I built is fun and all, but a 45mph top speed really limits where you can ride, and only having 18Ah of capacity means it’s really only good for riding around town, not doing any long trips. Another option could be this bike: th-cam.com/video/whM2RNk1tMQ/w-d-xo.html. It’s still under development, but I would love to buy one with no battery and make an insane battery for it, probably 20kW+. Since it has a mid drive motor it would be way better for off-roading and it would probably cost under $3k in total.
Please leave a comment/reply if I missed anything or you have any questions, I check my notifications everyday so if your question is a new question that I haven’t answered yet then I’ll probably answer it.
@@Calthecool Fantastic build man. I wanted to ask, what were your settings on your kweld to get 0.2 copper and 0.15 nickel welding strong? I have the thinner style bomber frame with the kicked out side panels and I plan on doing 16s10p with the same cells from batteryhookup. I am going to use 0.1mm copper and 0.2mm nickel plated steel as I have been able to get that welding good. I don't think I am gonna push more than 100A peak honestly. Was thinking of maybe using a used surron pack but people want outrageous $$$ for them.
@@DJTrainR3k when I first built my spot welder I did a bunch of tests on new cells to figure out the right power levels: 12 - 0.1 Nickel 16 - 0.15 Nickel 30 - 0.2 Nickel 60 - 0.15 Nickel 0.1 Copper 120 - 0.15 Nickel 0.15 Copper 256 - 0.15 Nickel 0.2 Copper However this was when it was around 70 degrees outside, and when I tried to do 0.15 Nickel 0.1 Copper more recently when it was around 45 degrees it needed much more than 60, I think it was more than 100. It also depends on what power source you have. I think I’m always going to do a tear test whenever I spot weld anything, because it’s worth it to know you have good spot welds. You should check out Battery Clearing House, they have these 12.6A discharge 4.2Ah cells for sale that would probably be a better fit for your build since you don’t need the 35A discharge from the Samsung 30T cells. I recently bought some 30A discharge 2Ah 18650 cells from them and they work great so I know they’re legit. And yeah, the aftermarket for anything surron related is insane. All the surrons for sale near me are ones that a kid bought new and put like $300 of mods on, then abused for 400 miles and they think they can sell it for $4,500. No thanks, I’ll just get a new one off Alibaba for $3,400.
Been waiting so long for this - love the content man! I appreciate the realness of it, as in how it isnt edited much, and the way you explain things. Keep it up man!
awesome video as always. the voltage sag is definitely better from the copper leads and thicker spot weld strips, but ultimately the internal resistance of fresh new 21700s are much lower than old 18650s. would love to see you build something with spim08 lipo cells.
@@zamb0nio I’ll look into them, they definitely look promising. Only issue is you can’t build them a certain size to match your vehicle like you can with 18650/21700 cells.
@@Calthecool that's my current problem. too big to fit in any bike frame that i've found. maybe i'll make a metal box and have it be the base of an e scooter. yea the cells have some real serious specs
we normally cut out a one peice nickle sheet then spoot weld that to the cells ,then cut out a copper sheet to same size then punch holes over each cells and solder that to the nickle,for really high current we add a .5 mm copper even a 1mm copper sheet
@@katiekumcgil I've been told that you want to avoid soldering near the cells to reduce the heat that they experience, Do you have some method to avoid heating the cells?
If you ever get a chance open your motor up and after cleaning coat it with CRC RED polyurathane motor water proofing ,it stops all rust and can still use statorade ontop of it
the stock baring cups and barings arnt much chop thop though ,if ever get the chance those conical roller barings and cups stop all movement and that thudding sound
we managed to modify these frames and reduce the the weight of the frame by half ,and put a QS273 motor into a 26 inch 45mm rim , these motors are just so insane they easily hit 30 000 watts with 82 volt and if your game a tad over 100 MPH ,not me thats friggin terrifing
Yeah I've seen some crazy builds. It always makes me chuckle when someone sees a bike like this and goes "Wow, 12kW? That's so powerful!" They don't even know how crazy it gets.
Nice built battery pack. ❤ how you waterproof all the connectors to ride in water ? That’s wild lol 😂🎉❤ you could make an aluminum box from 90* angle to prevent the bolts from rubbing through the protective shrink.
@@1FishinAddict I didn’t really do any waterproofing except on the battery where I used hot glue to seal up the shrink wrap. I knew it could maybe damage something but I thought I would give it a shot anyways.
@@jpthehuh I was planning on it, but I installed new pads and now they actually work pretty well. If I do the new frame and paddle tire I will probably get brakes as well because I have another bike with cable brakes that I could put the brakes from this bike on.
Your pretty bold to be going through water with ya build. Lol I try avoiding ALL water on my Builds, but yeah those headsets are always a problem, but check for that little Spacer that sits above the bearings, it should have a gap in it, that Spacer is key to keeping a headset tight..
It’s fresh water so it isn’t really that bad, I wouldn’t go through salt water. I think I installed the headset wrong so it wore out quicker than it should’ve, I definitely want to install a more heavy duty one but I haven’t done the research yet to find out which one to get.
Dang man, pretty nice bike. I'm working my own project and I'm looking to push 15,000 watts/200 amps at 72 volts. It's a smaller frame, the Razor MX650, so definitely interesting to see top speeds. How fast was yours able to go?
@@FixAndModGarage I bought the 5T motor, which is the hub motor equivalent of having lower gearing so this bike only goes 45mph. I know other bikes like this with the 3.5T motor go around 65mph. My next video is actually going to be a razor MX650, I already built it I just need to film more and edit the video. It’s got a 72v 100a controller with 45mph gearing and because of that lower gearing it has insane torque, I already looped it out going like 15mph. Yours will definitely be able to go 60+ with that much power if you gear it correctly.
@@Calthecool I'm doing a mid-drive motor. Right now, I'm only utilizing up to 80 of the 200 amps my battery can discharge. I'm gonna upgrade later down the road and I can probably do upwards of 80mph. We'll see though.
@@CalebMoore-j7n oh i agree i saved up for a pair of the new rockshox Boxxer ultimates ,and made a matching custom swing arm with boxxer decals ,has come up a treatr i think i still have a video on my page of one of these frames we modified
It was probably $350-$400, it's hard to pinpoint the exact number because I bought way more materials than I needed for this single battery. Check the pinned comment for more details.
Submerging the hub motor was totally bad idea. The rotor is going to rust up bad over the next few weeks & dirty water in the bearings not good either.
@@technocrat7971 it was just for a few seconds, I’ll take it apart if I hear any weird noises. Its not a real QS motor anyways so it’s not really that valuable.
I've been battling a loose headset for a few weeks now, so my ears perked up when you mentioned using a bolt through the bottom to hold it tighter. If/when you fix up yours - could you please include it in a future video... For those of us who struggle with our *&$#damn headsets. Cheers.
@@oldmanwithebike the bolt works exactly how you probably think it does, it just has some washers on the bottom to center it and a nut on the top. I’ll try to show it more in the next video.
@@user-bp5py6bh3g it’s a knock-off QS205 made by NBPower, in the first video I said that it started stuttering after I got it really hot and someone in the comments said that was the phase wires overheating, and that was only at 10kW so I don’t think it’s as powerful as you think. I just bought a real QS motor for an upcoming build so I’m looking forward to seeing how it performs.
@@Ronkilla I was thinking about upgrading the brakes but this bike is already a money pit and the brakes work well enough for me. I like thumb throttles, but I might consider a twist throttle in the future.
@@katiekumcgil That one looks pretty good, although I was looking for a smaller frame because I plan on only having a 6 parallel 21700 pack in it so I don't want a lot of extra space. Do you have any recommendations for sleeker frames? I would be open to bracing one if it's good overall but has a weak point.
@@Calthecool are you going to use 21700 mollie cells version ,they are awesome cells 50 amps per cell,thats what we run 20s x 20 p mollie 1000 amps dc and we use 2 25 amp chargers ,since we have the cells in a liquid solution using immersion cooling they never change more than 1 or 2 degress
The copper is conducting most of the current, the nickel is only there to allow me to spot weld the copper and to conduct the current flowing across the parallel groups of the battery, which isn't very much current.
@@Pizza-xi3fs I did, to do it you have to have a very powerful spot welder and use a piece of nickel on top of the copper. Look up “copper nickel sandwich” for more info.
In this video I planned on doing a cost breakdown and explaining what I would do differently if I were to build it again, but I forgot to, so I’ll just do it here. I know it’s long but it’s worth reading if you are seriously thinking about building a bike like this. Some things to consider before we get into it:
Make sure to watch the first video about this bike before reading this list, because there are some parts that I didn’t mention in this video.
I tried to include shipping wherever possible.
The AliExpress costs are approximate because that website is always doing fake sales and normal sales so it's hard to pinpoint an exact price. If it’s your first time buying from a store it will probably give you a "welcome deal”, which is a really good discount.
For most of the smaller parts I bought more than what was required for this build, but I still added the whole cost to the total cost of this build. I could probably find the exact number of parts that I used for a bit cheaper, but that’s not very realistic.
If you plan on doing the copper-nickel sandwich technique with 0.2mm copper like I did, you will need a very powerful spot welder. Mine is a K-Weld bought from Grid Rewired powered by a 4p3s headway pack with cells bought from batteryhookup. It was around $500 in all so make sure to factor that into the cost. You could probably buy one for cheaper that would do it, but I wanted the best possible spot welder.
If you live in Australia or the UK or some other far-off land, please don’t ask me where you can source any of these parts, especially battery cells. I don’t know because I’ve never had to buy these parts in your country. You are better off just doing a google search or looking on Reddit. (Just search “where to buy li-ion cells in [your country here] reddit” and you should get some results)
Cells - $235 (buy in boxes of 20 for cheaper price, I bought 6 for this battery because 6 * 35A = 210A so it was a perfect match for the BMS) batteryhookup.com/products/new-samsung-30t-21700-3000mah-35a-power-battery?variant=44210356584610
BMS - $80 (Make sure to follow the directions for wiring the balance leads, it’s a 7-21s BMS so two of the balance leads go to the same connection. It has the diagram on that listing. Also, I would recommend replacing the aluminum wires with copper wires.) batteryhookup.com/products/12v-lifepo4-smart-bms-w-low-temp-cutoff?variant=36287975522466
Shrink Wrap - $11 (I needed two feet of 410mm and two feet of 320mm. If you don’t know what size to buy, then read the description of the listing.) batteryhookup.com/collections/accessories/products/test?variant=43274653663394
Kapton Tape - $20 (I have two options for this one, and I have no idea how to estimate how much I used so I just put $20 to be safe) batteryhookup.com/collections/accessories/products/kapton-heat-tape-1-wide-or-2-wide-x-36-yards?variant=37889209434274 OR www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805580784009.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.79.61b71802ssV0Jn&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Nickel - $14 (I needed around 3.5m for a 6p20s battery, so the price is for 4 meters. Make sure to get the 22.7mm spacing, the 21.5mm spacing is for batteries with no spacers which I would not recommend. I chose the 0.15mm thickness because the thickness of the nickel doesn’t matter if you are doing the copper/nickel sandwich technique, but I would recommend getting the 0.2mm thickness if you are only doing nickel. It would probably be good for 15A per parallel cell.) www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805469007327.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.5.1630f19cBPJh7A&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Copper Strip - $18 (I bought the 0.2x14mm 10 meters, I used about 4.5 meters.) www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805680713794.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.13.1630f19cBPJh7A&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Cell Spacers - $47 (for this battery I only needed the 1x10 spacers, but there are lots of options on there. Don’t let the fake deal trick you, it’s still $47 for me and I already bought from them, so the welcome deal only saves you a few dollars.) www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805728492234.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.7.5a99f19cSVhS37&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Wire - $37 (I bought 10 AWG 25ft red 25ft black, I know it’s not available anymore but there are other options on Amazon) www.amazon.com/dp/B074S12G91?th=1
Connectors - $28 (I actually bought XT90 anti-spark connectors, but it turns out they don’t really work, the first time you connect them the resistor in the connector burns out so from that point on they might as well be normal connectors. I would recommend these connectors; I bought some and they seem high quality. They are also rated for way more current so I would have only needed one for this battery pack) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09G9T45WS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
XT60 Connectors - $10 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Now onto the bike:
Frame - $370 (You can probably find it cheaper on aliexpress but I didn’t know that when I first built the bike) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CKSQ5P2G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seat - $100 (once again, probably cheaper on aliexpress. I think the only reason it snapped was my brother looping the bike in the last video and me having to bend it back) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CDLXWFFN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Forks and Shock - $680 (If you plan on using a larger battery or you are heavier than me (175lbs) then you probably need stiffer suspension. If you do buy these make sure to get the one that has the forks and the shock.) www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804801913527.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.50051802EC0NON&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Motor Kit - $950 (I bought the one with the 5T motor for more torque and less top speed. I wouldn't recommend buying this kit for a few reasons. The first is that the motor is a clone of a QS205, and it can’t handle nearly as much power as a real QS205. The second is that the Sabvoton controller isn’t as good as a comparable fardriver controller. If I were to build this bike again, I would order a real QS205 either directly from the QS motor company or find a trusted seller on aliexpress. I would then buy a Fardriver from econiccycles, I’ve bought 5 fardrivers from them so far and they have all worked perfectly. If you do decide to order this kit, make sure to email their salesperson and ask to see all their options for the kit.) www.amazon.com/dp/B089NXMJW7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Front Tire - $300 (Same seller as the motor kit, so if you do decide to get that kit then talk to the salesperson and you can probably buy them together) www.amazon.com/dp/B089RDSHPT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Handlebars - $37 (I got the 720mm and didn’t cut them) www.amazon.com/dp/B0956QBZ9Q?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Stem - $10 www.amazon.com/dp/B071YV77R7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Chain - $18 www.amazon.com/dp/B001MXQHPG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Cranks - $43 (I purchaced the smallest length crank and smallest chainring because I knew I wasn’t ever going to pedal.) www.amazon.com/dp/B08HSLR7FS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&psc=1
Charger - $64 (It outputs 85v, I would recommend opening it up and turning the potentiometer inside it to reduce the output voltage to 83v for safety.) www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9ZQHNTR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Grips - $10 www.amazon.com/dp/B09Y4CH43Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Big Shrink Wrap - $10 (this is optional to cover up the orange motor cable) www.amazon.com/dp/B0919H9XQD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Pedals - $25 www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7MHSPZ6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Kickstand - $20 (just make sure to be careful, it can barely handle a bike this heavy) www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJB9ZBFL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
USB Panel Mount - $10 www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPZVMWV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Cable Glands - $15 (optional, I knew I was going to probably drive this in wet conditions, so I bought them.) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W9Q5HMH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
XT60 Panel Mount - $10 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C5X5Q1NN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Hubsinks - $100 (Probably wouldn't need them if you had a real QS motor) hubsink.com/products/heatsink?variant=25315587528
Statorade - $40 (goes with the hubsinks) hubsink.com/products/genuine-statorade-ferrofluid-australian-stock
TOTAL COST: ~$3,312 (This is the cost FOR ME, not for you if you wanted to build this bike the exact same way. I already had a $500 spot welder, a soldering iron, angle grinder, Dremel, welder etc.)
CONCLUSION:
If I were to build this bike again, I would see if I could buy a pre-assembled bike from aliexpress/alibaba without a battery or controller and build a battery for it and buy a Fardriver controller for it. When you buy a bike from aliexpress/alibaba they have to ship the battery separately anyways so I’m sure they would sell just the bike. I would probably order it with street tires and try to ride it mostly on the road so I don’t destroy it in a month. I would probably do a 3.5T or 4T motor to have a higher top speed and build a battery with at least 40Ah capacity and 200A discharge current. This bike I built is fun and all, but a 45mph top speed really limits where you can ride, and only having 18Ah of capacity means it’s really only good for riding around town, not doing any long trips.
Another option could be this bike: th-cam.com/video/whM2RNk1tMQ/w-d-xo.html. It’s still under development, but I would love to buy one with no battery and make an insane battery for it, probably 20kW+. Since it has a mid drive motor it would be way better for off-roading and it would probably cost under $3k in total.
Please leave a comment/reply if I missed anything or you have any questions, I check my notifications everyday so if your question is a new question that I haven’t answered yet then I’ll probably answer it.
@@Calthecool Fantastic build man. I wanted to ask, what were your settings on your kweld to get 0.2 copper and 0.15 nickel welding strong? I have the thinner style bomber frame with the kicked out side panels and I plan on doing 16s10p with the same cells from batteryhookup. I am going to use 0.1mm copper and 0.2mm nickel plated steel as I have been able to get that welding good. I don't think I am gonna push more than 100A peak honestly. Was thinking of maybe using a used surron pack but people want outrageous $$$ for them.
@@DJTrainR3k
when I first built my spot welder I did a bunch of tests on new cells to figure out the right power levels:
12 - 0.1 Nickel
16 - 0.15 Nickel
30 - 0.2 Nickel
60 - 0.15 Nickel 0.1 Copper
120 - 0.15 Nickel 0.15 Copper
256 - 0.15 Nickel 0.2 Copper
However this was when it was around 70 degrees outside, and when I tried to do 0.15 Nickel 0.1 Copper more recently when it was around 45 degrees it needed much more than 60, I think it was more than 100. It also depends on what power source you have. I think I’m always going to do a tear test whenever I spot weld anything, because it’s worth it to know you have good spot welds.
You should check out Battery Clearing House, they have these 12.6A discharge 4.2Ah cells for sale that would probably be a better fit for your build since you don’t need the 35A discharge from the Samsung 30T cells. I recently bought some 30A discharge 2Ah 18650 cells from them and they work great so I know they’re legit.
And yeah, the aftermarket for anything surron related is insane. All the surrons for sale near me are ones that a kid bought new and put like $300 of mods on, then abused for 400 miles and they think they can sell it for $4,500. No thanks, I’ll just get a new one off Alibaba for $3,400.
So badass that you make your own battery packs
Been waiting so long for this - love the content man! I appreciate the realness of it, as in how it isnt edited much, and the way you explain things. Keep it up man!
also what t motor are you using?
@@ovxrtex it’s a knock-off QS205 5T made by NBPower.
awesome video as always. the voltage sag is definitely better from the copper leads and thicker spot weld strips, but ultimately the internal resistance of fresh new 21700s are much lower than old 18650s. would love to see you build something with spim08 lipo cells.
@@zamb0nio I’ll look into them, they definitely look promising. Only issue is you can’t build them a certain size to match your vehicle like you can with 18650/21700 cells.
@@Calthecool that's my current problem. too big to fit in any bike frame that i've found. maybe i'll make a metal box and have it be the base of an e scooter. yea the cells have some real serious specs
love your vids man i've been waiting for p2
HES BACK FINALLY. Love the content bro please make more
I love how you really put the bike through the test and not just popped wheelies on it
we normally cut out a one peice nickle sheet then spoot weld that to the cells ,then cut out a copper sheet to same size then punch holes over each cells and solder that to the nickle,for really high current we add a .5 mm copper even a 1mm copper sheet
try to stay away from nickle stripping all together and use one single piece cut to shape
@@katiekumcgil I've been told that you want to avoid soldering near the cells to reduce the heat that they experience, Do you have some method to avoid heating the cells?
Sweet ride my brotha….
If you ever get a chance open your motor up and after cleaning coat it with CRC RED polyurathane motor water proofing ,it stops all rust and can still use statorade ontop of it
the stock baring cups and barings arnt much chop thop though ,if ever get the chance those conical roller barings and cups stop all movement and that thudding sound
@@katiekumcgil I'll look into those, thanks for the suggestions.
@@Calthecool yeah for sure ,a quilbix 76 series frame kit ,or a futr beta frame i think this is what your after
Love your videos bro!
we managed to modify these frames and reduce the the weight of the frame by half ,and put a QS273 motor into a 26 inch 45mm rim , these motors are just so insane they easily hit 30 000 watts with 82 volt and if your game a tad over 100 MPH ,not me thats friggin terrifing
Yeah I've seen some crazy builds. It always makes me chuckle when someone sees a bike like this and goes "Wow, 12kW? That's so powerful!" They don't even know how crazy it gets.
The qs 273 is designed to handle 96v that is its most efficient voltage.
Goated video
you're crazy in the water 😂😂 good stuff though!
Nice built battery pack. ❤ how you waterproof all the connectors to ride in water ? That’s wild lol 😂🎉❤ you could make an aluminum box from 90* angle to prevent the bolts from rubbing through the protective shrink.
@@1FishinAddict I didn’t really do any waterproofing except on the battery where I used hot glue to seal up the shrink wrap. I knew it could maybe damage something but I thought I would give it a shot anyways.
are you gonna upgrade the brakes next? love the content!
@@jpthehuh I was planning on it, but I installed new pads and now they actually work pretty well. If I do the new frame and paddle tire I will probably get brakes as well because I have another bike with cable brakes that I could put the brakes from this bike on.
Amazing
You should make a video going through the total cost and break down everything you would have done differently
Check pinned comment
heat man nice vide
and by the looks of it would recommend some better brakes, some used quad piston mtb brakes should be sufficient without being too expensive
Your pretty bold to be going through water with ya build. Lol
I try avoiding ALL water on my Builds, but yeah those headsets are always a problem, but check for that little Spacer that sits above the bearings, it should have a gap in it, that Spacer is key to keeping a headset tight..
It’s fresh water so it isn’t really that bad, I wouldn’t go through salt water. I think I installed the headset wrong so it wore out quicker than it should’ve, I definitely want to install a more heavy duty one but I haven’t done the research yet to find out which one to get.
Dang man, pretty nice bike. I'm working my own project and I'm looking to push 15,000 watts/200 amps at 72 volts. It's a smaller frame, the Razor MX650, so definitely interesting to see top speeds. How fast was yours able to go?
@@FixAndModGarage I bought the 5T motor, which is the hub motor equivalent of having lower gearing so this bike only goes 45mph. I know other bikes like this with the 3.5T motor go around 65mph. My next video is actually going to be a razor MX650, I already built it I just need to film more and edit the video. It’s got a 72v 100a controller with 45mph gearing and because of that lower gearing it has insane torque, I already looped it out going like 15mph. Yours will definitely be able to go 60+ with that much power if you gear it correctly.
@@Calthecool I'm doing a mid-drive motor. Right now, I'm only utilizing up to 80 of the 200 amps my battery can discharge. I'm gonna upgrade later down the road and I can probably do upwards of 80mph. We'll see though.
⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡💙💙💙🤍🤍🤍💙💙💙
@@sergiososa5855 🗣️🗣️🗣️🗣️♥️♥️🗣️🗣️♥️🗣️♥️😈😈😈😈😆😈😆💎💎💎🔥🔥🔥🔥🧠🧠🧠🧠🧠
what forks did you have on when it broke where they the zoom ones in dual crown?
Yes
dont get them... i was the one riding when it broke lol. Go for quality, your nose will thank you
@@CalebMoore-j7n oh i agree i saved up for a pair of the new rockshox Boxxer ultimates ,and made a matching custom swing arm with boxxer decals ,has come up a treatr i think i still have a video on my page of one of these frames we modified
What is the total cost to make the battery?
It was probably $350-$400, it's hard to pinpoint the exact number because I bought way more materials than I needed for this single battery. Check the pinned comment for more details.
Submerging the hub motor was totally bad idea. The rotor is going to rust up bad over the next few weeks & dirty water in the bearings not good either.
@@technocrat7971 it was just for a few seconds, I’ll take it apart if I hear any weird noises. Its not a real QS motor anyways so it’s not really that valuable.
I've been battling a loose headset for a few weeks now, so my ears perked up when you mentioned using a bolt through the bottom to hold it tighter. If/when you fix up yours - could you please include it in a future video... For those of us who struggle with our *&$#damn headsets. Cheers.
@@oldmanwithebike the bolt works exactly how you probably think it does, it just has some washers on the bottom to center it and a nut on the top. I’ll try to show it more in the next video.
That’s sick but the brakes need some work!
bros motor is gonna be cooked💀💀
@@timmeh_shimmeh6289 it’s doing a lot better with the hubsinks and statorade, if I didn’t have them this motor would definitely be melted by now.
QS motors are fine at this power level
A qs205 can take up to 15kw
@@user-bp5py6bh3g it’s a knock-off QS205 made by NBPower, in the first video I said that it started stuttering after I got it really hot and someone in the comments said that was the phase wires overheating, and that was only at 10kW so I don’t think it’s as powerful as you think. I just bought a real QS motor for an upcoming build so I’m looking forward to seeing how it performs.
Surron throttle and magura brakes next
@@Ronkilla I was thinking about upgrading the brakes but this bike is already a money pit and the brakes work well enough for me. I like thumb throttles, but I might consider a twist throttle in the future.
your running the QS 205 there arnt you ,couldnt get a good look
they are great motor too
It's a clone made by NBPower, it can't take as much power as a real QS205
You should a cheapest e-bike conversion kit video 😭🔥
@@aquaz-gov there’s plenty of those out there.
what is the bike actually called?
@@NFL-CENTER “stealth bomber clone”, it’s a Chinese copy of an Australian ebike called a “stealth bomber”
@Calthecool ok thanks sorry I missed that part
if you upgrade your frame go for ELEEK Enduro frame with ABS panels there are better frames but they cost heaps and then some
great to see you enjoying your build though ,thanks for sharing it
@@katiekumcgil That one looks pretty good, although I was looking for a smaller frame because I plan on only having a 6 parallel 21700 pack in it so I don't want a lot of extra space. Do you have any recommendations for sleeker frames? I would be open to bracing one if it's good overall but has a weak point.
@@Calthecool are you going to use 21700 mollie cells version ,they are awesome cells 50 amps per cell,thats what we run 20s x 20 p mollie 1000 amps dc and we use 2 25 amp chargers ,since we have the cells in a liquid solution using immersion cooling they never change more than 1 or 2 degress
thats only on the bike we made as a show bike ,for advertising ,to show what we can make
how do you like your sabvoton controller
What is the total cost to make the bike?
7k
~$3,312, check pinned comment
What T is your motor?
5T, 45mph top speed with field weakening. Check pinned comment.
Was the speedometer in kph or mph?
@@Luxadactale mph
Can you please make a blueprint and and a cost breakdown PLS PLS PLS.
Check pinned comment
Whats the top speed on this?
@@aquaz-gov 45mph. I chose the 5T version of the motor because it has motor torque and less speed, and I don’t ride faster than 45 anyways.
bro cooked his go pro
@@HAWKTUAH_EDITZ lol GoPros are out of my budget, I have my iPhone clamped to a mount that’s zip-tied to my helmet 😆
@ oh dam thats crazy
Are you sure that nickel can take 100 amps?
The copper is conducting most of the current, the nickel is only there to allow me to spot weld the copper and to conduct the current flowing across the parallel groups of the battery, which isn't very much current.
@@Calthecool Do you spot weld the copper ? How?
@@Pizza-xi3fs I did, to do it you have to have a very powerful spot welder and use a piece of nickel on top of the copper. Look up “copper nickel sandwich” for more info.
@@Calthecool thanks
battery looks soild though
Thanks, I plan on doing copper sheets from now on but the copper strips have been working great so far.
0h man you still shouldn't use AliExpress suspension, i had the exact same shock as you on my mtb and it snapped in half from the stanchion
@Automobilewhisperer-j4n they seem legit, and it’s not like they were super cheap, $680 for the forks and shock.
go to 100k fo a frame :)
FIRS ONE HERE BIG FAN
@@Mpvzeekoo 🫡