What about fans? To create low pressure under the car. Like the mcMurty supercar. I'm not sure if the application could help on something that small, but it theoretically should make ground effect
I am the guy who made Raz's carbon bodies. We should exchange notes on aerodynamics. Please consider standing somewhere safe while making the speed run the car is capable of chopping your legs off.
Raz already told me I was being an idiot by standing so close 😂 And he is not wrong. At least with the FPV camera I don't need to stand close anymore to line up the drive. I would definitely be keen to chat about it, and I've got some future projects that I would really like your input on.
Something I think a lot of people fail on, is the aero. And the main part they fail with, is the leading edge. You have a very sharp leading edge. Unless you know 100% that the angle that edge is hitting the air at is never going to change, than you need to round the front edge over. Funnily enough, part of that rounding will also put some air under the car, but not in a terrible way, it will just stop air separation and loss of downforce when hitting bumps. Something worth having a look at too, is the channel "Super Fast Matt" He's been building a land speed racer, and there's a few things in his latest video that would really help streamline your air flow under the car, and help you to minimise drag, as well as the help reduce the want for the vehicle to get air borne ;) He also goes deep into some of his aero stuff too, and designing it. :) As for tyres, you might need to look at making your own, from pure scratch, and likely will require the addition of belts, similar to how car tyres are made. Above that, if you can have the rim in the mould when you make it, then the added benefit is being able to have the tyre go through the rim, and hold on from the inside, with less glue needed :) I'm keen to see how this progresses, and loved the video! :)
Very cool project. In the future though, please wear a proper respirator when working with (but especially sanding) a CF infused filament. If you inhale any of the microscopic fibers from the dust it can cause pretty serious and potentially long term lung issues. Cheers, can't wait to see this thing run again.
Please work on your downforce. Right now, it looks like you only rely on the bottom of the car. But at high speeds a little bump and the car becomes an airplane wing. Maybe winglets in front and a low downforce spoiler. Some sort of diffuser and guide the air together better behind the side pods. Maybe a venting hole in the front to cool the batteries and motor and a hole above the diffuser
Thanks, I think you are correct. I did design a diffuser, but I need to redesign it because it didn't seem to help. I am working on increasing downforce that doesn't rely on ground effect for the next video. Worst case scenario I will add lead weights which will increase downforce, but also slow down acceleration a bit.
Once the car is airborne there is nothing you can do. The car going airborne in this situation has nothing to do with the downforce. It has to do with catching an edge with the tire and the asphalt that caused it to flip airborne. No amount of downforce will stop that from happening. It is exactly how people faceplant while snowboarding. Trying to run the car FPV is going to cause him to make many micro corrections that are not necessary and cause the car to drift into catching an edge. When driving from 2nd person's view you don't make as many micro corrections cause you can't see them and you don't cause the car to overreact. Driving FPV will be the biggest downfall IMO.
@@LukeMaximoBell1 There is car that uses a fan to basically suck itself to the road (McMurtry Speirling).Advantage is that you have downforce even at the start with no speed.
Kevin Talbot also tries to do crazy things with RC cars all the time and has a following for it. I'm new to this channel but he literally started the video by saying "I can see why people like this, this is my first RC speed run." That doesn't make me want to keep watching... I don't understand how or why someone with NO experience just woke up and decided to make the "world's fastest RC car".... To me, that's just him just looking for views/interactions. I can tell there is a ton of time in the video and the research and build. But all that is negated by him doing this for the first time on camera... But that's just my 2 cents.
@@matthewmccalister5594 So are you saying that I shouldn't even bother try and break the record because I am not very experienced with RC cars? I took on this project as an engineering challenge.
@@HanzDeez Kevin is awesome! He's having fun and trying stuff to see what works. My approach is more technical, but at the end of the day it's the results that matter! 😂 I have yet to prove my skills in this race, but I'll get there!
250mph will only be possible with a massive jump in tires technology. They power is there now, but no one can put it to the ground without exploding tires. I personally feel like the tires and wheels need to be much narrower as well. Like maybe 1/2 the current width.
I think you’re right that tyres are the main limiting factor but it’s mainly keeping them on the rims that’s the big problem. I have a feeling that the ultimate solution will involve a set of tyres per run and perhaps Kevlar reinforcement into the bargain. And maybe injection moulding the foam onto the wheels. It’s not a cheap hobby by any means
I’ll offer one tip to help your journey. - ditch the central vertical fin. I smashed one of my cars so many times trying to persevere with a single fin. Stability was transformed when I finally gave up and switched to twin side mounted vertical fins. Good luck with the project!
Ahh very interesting... Initially I was going for 2 fins on the sides, but I wanted my FPV view dead centre so I went for the central fin. But I trust your judgement on this one, so I will move to 2 side fins. If there are any obvious mistakes you see me making that I could avoid then please feel free to share! 🙌🏼 Thanks!
With a single fin, my car was almost uncontrollable over 150. It was Martin Peace that kept telling me it was the fin. He begged me to change it. I did a trackside swap to twin fins and put in a solid 175mph (pb at the time) in the subsequent runs.
Hey man, I'm two minutes in and all I gotta say is that a lot of us stand on a ladder while speed running for a reason. Please keep safety in mind when running speed running rc cars. A lot of us spend an entire season refining suspension and aero while slowly pushing the car a little further. It's a great hobby and I wish you luck on your adventure.
@LukeMaximoBell1 I'm glad to hear it. You are working with a great chassis. Just remember that sometimes less is more. Some of the fastest rc cars are single motor for a reason. Don't try too hard to reinvent the wheel ;)
Suggestions: Make front wheels/tires narrow as possible; less wind drag, rolling drag, rotating inertia, and understeer is much better than oversteer at speed. Raise rear suspension for underbody vacuum, stiffen swaybar for counteracting stability issues Longer rudder (not costly to drag when going straight) to save those tire explosion scenarios
@@LukeMaximoBell1Perhaps consider generative design using Fusion 360 for the wheel to stop it coning and maybe moulding the tyre directly onto the wheel using a two-part Urethane of the perfect shore hardness? The wheels would probably need to be 3D printed in Nylon.
Great project and video! Some crazy speeds already! BTW have you seen the speeds of Dynamic soaring rc gliders? I do a lot of prototyping , some unsolicited thoughts that may or may not be useful. If you do any sanding of a cf or gf reinforced printed parts you should really have respiratory protection, as though you were sanding any other composite part. You dont need to use such a expensive material for printed vac form moulds, PC or something like that will do fine for much less. You would have had a better result also if you arranged your body sections on the plate so they are aligned with the nose of the car pointing up. Then use pins, to locate the sections. Model in holes for the middle low point in the cad. Also if minimising the weight to the nth degree is not needed and you dont need a clear body then I would just use a printed body, save the hassle of all the molding and gain iteration speed etc. FDm prints can be filled with PU for additional strength. Maybe casting a pu tire onto a printed wheel could be quite strong esp if it is locked in by the profile of the wheel rim. You might have seen bambus new tpu for ams, I dont know how tough or flexible that material is, but you might be able to do a multi material print when you print the tire and the wheel in one part. Not sure what might bond with the tpu though. - edit petg does apparently, Though you could use something else and lock it in place mechanically.
Those are some very interesting thoughts. The printing of something of this size makes it too much work to print a body every time I reckon. Especially because it won't be as strong. Funny you mention the printing of the wheel using TPU, my dad and I were literally discussing that this week. I think it would be awesome, but the layer by layer printing would make it difficult. We would really need dual print heads. One for TPU and one for PPA-CF. But I am going to experiment with TPU tires for the next video. These foam tires work pretty well, but when you are doing speed runs over 200 MPH they only last 1 run which is crazy considering a set costs about $80.A mechanical locking system assisted by glue might be the best option for now,
The high speed cars in RL used machined alu wheels. Might be worth a shot. you could skeletonize them, then cast the tread in place, then machine them and balance them. Should be good for more dirability and higher rpm.
"They're spinning fast, they generate a lot of noise, a lot of drag, they just do not help the situation." Bold statrment on the single most important piece in a car 🤣
Hahaha, nooooo…! Now we’re never going to get another ‘World Record Attempt’ from Kevin Talbot! Amazing video! Thanks for taking us along for the ride 🤩🙌
@@LukeMaximoBell1Love it! Thanks so much again. Out of curiosity, would a speed tail extending into ‘detached airflow’ at the back of the car (with a larger & shallower sloped rear defuser under the car for more downforce) work on this type of high speed car? Or is there an advantage over the blunt rear end of the car? Thanks again.
@@lecolintube Because the car is very wide extending the tear drop shape or tail doesn't really work because of how long it has to be. If I could make the car more slender then that shape would be a lot more efficient.
@ Awesome, thanks so much for the explanation. (I’ve loved learning along side you, and getting further insight into the design choices). Thanks so much again! 🧡🕊️🙌 Can’t wait to see the next video!!!
Great work so far. Yeah the wheels and tires really seem to be the weak spot on most speed run cars. Looking forward to the next vid.Do you think it wouild be possible to design a wheel that doesn't have a tire? It's one piece out of a material that is grippy but also strong enough not to fly apart? Just a thought.
Great thinking. I don’t think so because anything too hard will put too much strain on the axles like you saw in this video. However I am experimenting with some materials that are more like rubber than they are like foam. Foam tends to wear down a bit too quickly. Wait for video 2 to see what I try!
@15:32 the rear end gets light causing uncontrollable yaw. A left front tire delaminating makes the car go left, it doesn't make the car pull hard right. You need to increase the rear ride height and add shock travel limiters as well as add vertical stabilizers behind the centerline on the rear wheels as well as avoid the bump that lifted the tires long enough to freewheel the foam off. No downforce, no Rudder and a bumpy road is a recipe for disaster every time
I did runs before this at basically the same speed where the cat stayed in control. So I think it’s more likely that the wheel failure caused the crash
@LukeMaximoBell1 except that it pulled the wrong direction for it to be a wheel failure. Also you can see the yaw was induced before the chunks of foam left the tire which is indicative of a freewheeling not a loaded failure
@@stp440 True, unless the car started turning left because of the wheel failure and the gyro stabalised steering overcorrected to the right and then it lost traction. Either way, I agree with you that I need more downforce
@LukeMaximoBell1 once a tire let's go there's no bringing it back. You can turn to full right lock and its still not going to go anywhere but left, I've seen and experienced it many times. I'm not trying to be rude herr, I just don't like watching bad things happen to good cars and people and want to see you do everything possible to avoid another expensive crash.
Completely fair. I am still fairly new to this, so I always take on board what experienced drivers have experienced. I would be an idiot not to! haha. What I did notice while driving, is the car felt a lot less stable on the run where it crashed, compared to the previous runs. You could be totally right that it was a downforce issue. I'm definitely going to investigate introducing more downforce in the future. And hopefully I can make it adjustable as well.
I am so glad you are playing with other wheel and rubber designs. Maybe make the solid rubber a bit thicker and try printing a solid tire from TPU or something similar. I was watching Kevin Talbot, but he just stuck to foam wheels. I still think the right shore rating and the correct thickness may make a difference. Love your ingenuity. Keep it going. Don't just break the record, smash it!!!
Thanks so much, what an epic comment. The wheels for sure are the biggest failure point for the guys going the quickest currently which I why I am putting time into it. But man it’s difficult to find the right foam and adhesive. I am going to play around with TPU tires for the next video so let’s see how that goes!
Just a tip. The hobbywing ESC cut out throttle because it can only draw its peak current for a couple seconds. You have to feather the throttle for high speed. For example. Pin the throttle trigger slowly to 50% then release throttle and wait like half a second, then pin it to 70%. Release throttle and wait half a second, and so on. Until you run out of road. that Max 4 can draw like 2000 amps but only for like a second.
You are absolutely right! I experienced this first hand with my single 70125 setup. It would accelerate then slow down, then accelerate and slow down. The perfect pass launch control was a bit aggressive. But that current limiter is frustrating. I don’t think it’s a feasible ESC to use for this record unfortunately.
Have you considered torsion bars with dampers in stead of the coils + dampers? In cars you get wheel hop when suspension has too much soft points. The foam may have failed because of hopping over the surface.
Great to see some content on the rc car speed record attempts after watching all the hard work you put into building the high speed drone. Keep up the great work mate. Lekka!
@@LukeMaximoBell1Some time ago people were experimenting with Kevlar threads around the tread of the tyre in strategic places and a dot of CA glue on the knot. Far as I remember the results were quite encouraging
@@LukeMaximoBell1 Go all out go for big number of 350mph, that should be one in the eye for a certain Swedish Car company....its not Volvo, it begins with a K!
Vacuum forming is a great way to make bodies. It’s hard to make 3D printed molds because you’re using a thermoplastic to form a thermoplastic. As you mentioned making the mold “stronger” helps but it’s really thermal mass that you’re adding. If your set on vacuum forming you should do a glass layer with epoxy to get a ridged shell, then at that point just wet layup composite shells would be better. (If I just watch enough of the video my comment is irrelevant)
@ I just had an idea for your wheels if it’s worth anything. If your wheels (just the rim portion) are deforming at higher speeds you could mess with wrapping them with carbon fiber or Kevlar tow. The idea would be the wrapping would act like a belted rim. Carbon does much better in tension but it might help keep things glued to the rim if it’s not deforming so much at speed. (Silly ideas spark good ones)
@@LukeMaximoBell1 correct, the low pressure from the decreased drag will create a low pressure pocket above the rear of the car. When that pressure differential becomes great enough the weight of the car will no longer be enough to resist that low pressure zone. The low pressure will also try to promote the rear bodywork to balloon to fill that low pressure zone, the benefit is you can decrease that pressure differential by forcing the air that is inside the bodywork and under the car into that low pressure zone. Fan cars of the 60s and 70s were outlawed in racing because of how stable and successful they were.
@@RadDadisRad Do you mean forcing the air inside the cover of the car out the back? At the end of the day I am not opposed to adding in lead weights around the car for extra downforce! haha. It will mean slower acceleration and braking but shouldn't affect top speed at long as I have enough room.
@@LukeMaximoBell1 you could add weight. I am just suggesting a different means. I haven’t seen it done on RC level stuff. Maybe for good reason or maybe because people aren’t abstract enough to pursue alternative means of stability.
Take a look at the trail blazers before you on the salt lakes. The back of the car needs a taper to bring the air back together. Install a flight controller with gps, gyro, and cruise. It will keep your car running straight. Plus you can send lots of telemetry data back to your fpv goggles like amps, volts, speed.
The wide aspect ratio of the car makes having a tapering tail unrealistic and not as helpful as you would think. The car is already running with a flight controller and sends a lot of telemtry back to my goggles
Welcome to the wonderful world of ( Build-Test-Crash ) - Repeat ad infinitum, Luke. I think you’re absolutely bang-on going FPV. Essentially speed record running is drag racing with far more tricky aerodynamics and wheel/tyre combos. As I found to my extreme cost, trying to coax an ERevo above 100mph! 😂 You might consider going the fan car route as keeping your model on the ground becomes more and more difficult the faster you go. BTW I’ve got a Tim Smith-built dragster gathering dust in my garage if you fancy going that route sometime.
@@LukeMaximoBell1 it’s not as easy as it may seem because a chassis plate is such an important part of torsional rigidity and big holes in that are going to compromise that rigidity. Also you won’t be able to do it with a vac-formed body because your fan will just suck it in. You’re pretty close to a Chaparral 2J shape already so maybe that’s the way to go, just longer, to accommodate a couple of ducted fans. Really looking forward to seeing how this project develops. 😊👍🏻
@@andylewis7360 That is true, I really don't want to weaken the chassis of the car! There is likely space for fans at the back already so maybe I will try that.
Really cool project! Probably a good idea to wear some kind of PPE when sanding carbon fiber prints though, that dust is nasty stuff. The microsplinters of CF can really irritate the skin and lungs, especially over regular exposures.
You could consider adding fans for down force as well, if you have them mounted to draw air up through the car you can pull the car down onto the tyres with more force than that cars weight would allow.
At least you read the comment Section... I saw a Video that AUDI runs the "Front Diff" at a Higher Rotational Speed than the Rear Diff, for High Speed Stability. Your Car needs to be 50% Longer, 20% Wider and 30% Heavier. As it is OUT of SCALE for the Road Surface. You will need REAL REINFORCED TIRES and RIMS to match the REAL SURFACE... No more Toy Hobby Stuff.
Great video. That ESC and motor is not competitive in the speed run game. For 8S its xlx2 all the way and for 12S the MadMax20 400Amp 12S is where its at. New speed record for single motor car is 200mph as of last week. Those SMC V3 are top dog. ONYX and SMC I would say is tje 2 current kings of speed run batteries. Your doing a great job. Im currently builsing a custom Losi dbxle dual 12S setup to chase the 1/5 off road record.
Yea for sure. I can’t say too much but Hobbywing is joining the speed run game next year ⚡️ I was looking at the Mad Max20 and it looks awesome. Would even be able to up it to 15S, which would be better.
Yes the MadMax21 can go 16S. Ive got 2 of madmad15's and 1 madmax20. They are really awesome. Im still pushing my single motor limitless on a 2028 1700kv with xlx2. My biggest barrier has been batteries. They are so critical its crazy. On a single 6S cnhl 9000mah I would pull the voltage down from 25V to 13V at and the esc would just cut everything. Draws 480amps. Then I out dual 6S 9000cnhal in parallel and tje voltsge stabilized at 19V and it ran like a rocket. Having batteries that van maintain Voltage is critical. Good luck man looking forward. Sterkte.h@@LukeMaximoBell1
@ whoah that is some massive voltage sag. SMC makes the best batteries for these purposes. Good to know that the Max 20 is a reliable product. I’m definitely interested in testing it out. Do you know what current draw you’ve gotten on it? Im just curious to know if it has a current limiter on it or not, ie can you go over 400A continuous draw with sufficient cooling
one small advice if I may, you should repurpose wheels from an electric skateboard/scooter, they are designed to handle high torque and won't disintegrate with the weight of your rc build. good job my friend & good luck for the world record !
I'm thinking if those batteries were securely strapped to the car that the car would have been totally destroyed. The kinetic energy the batteries hold is more than the car itself. Losing the batteries helped the car to stop sooner and with less damage. But I'm not an engineer and I probably have no idea what I'm talking about. Thanks for your videos! Now I'd be concerned that the batteries could burst into flames at any time.
I created a TPU housing for the batteries which you can see. It protects them brilliantly. You have a fair point. But the batteries weigh about 2.5kg together. The car weighs about 8kg
Nice build! Keep up the good work. Have you tried looking into 3D printing the rims and do a polyurethane poor? Similar to skateboard/longboard wheels.
Great - love the whole process. Wouldn't a tail fin be better than front wheels in steering - it would reduce the need for grip and the effect of bumps.
Take a look at rf / frequency welding to bond the wheels to the foam, though you could be exceeding the material limits of the foam. Might be worth it to call or write BSR and see if they have any high speed prototype foam compounds you could test 🤷♂️ 🤓
There is nothing wrong with wheel deformation, you just have to engineer it in. As the wheel increases speed, allow it to expand. It will increase your gear ratio as you go faster. Dragster tires do just that. Perhaps look at Kevlar belting.
The “mold failure” with the dimples may have made the body more aerodynamic like a golf ball? The air turbulence could cause less vacuum on the back of the car. Also maybe something like a whisker biscuit on the bottom of the body/ or frame to keep air from getting under the body. I’m no engineer just some thoughts Also maybe the wheels could be significantly bigger to lower rpm and use portals on the wheels for gear reduction and to keep the frame close to the ground. Brainstorming with you
You’ve got some good ideas there. Except for the dimples. That’s a bit of a myth. But in saying so I’ll model that in my next video just to make certain. The skirt at the bottom of the car helps a lot with drag.
I think you need solid Aluminum wheels,with 5-6mm solid rubber tire ,attached with the most advanced affordable adhesive you can get,you must also get a wheel balancer for RC cars/buggies,they are cheap,also you could experiment as "Myth Busters" did with golf ball dimples,since you already made the mold for the body.
I see that the drag level is not high so no need for a wing, but it definitely needs a better spoiler. Also, try making the car as low as possible, so the air doesn’t lift the car. Also, I don’t know if it will work, but a turbofan/propeller engine would also work.
Probably need to look into the kinds of resins used to make skateboard wheels, as skateboards see all kinds of abuse while in use. Could try something where the hub is put into a mold, and then the resin is cast over it to create the tire. I'd guess for more surface area on the rim for adhesion, may want something grooved similar to a honey-baster. Should not come apart in any fashion unless destroying that tire. I've said it before when watching different people try this, the wheels and tires are the main limiting factor. So figuring that out is really the challenge. Most people have more than enough power, and the aero of those things is fairly standard too at those limits.
Try making a void or a cavity under the chassis connected to the rear of the car. In order to make a vacuum that suction the car to the road, the faster it goes
I wonder if its possible to have negative tyre pressure...... The vacuum could allow a soft material for grip but help reduce the tyre ballooning at high rpm.... No idea how you would make something like that though.! Great approach though, i think you can do it Maybe you could attach the tyres at a high temperature, so when they cool a negative pressure is created.....
I wonder how it would Handle if it had ALLOY WHEELS with close together short TUNGSTEN SPIKES.. No Rubber, just Alloy and Tungsten. No more Tarmac destroying your Foam Tires, it's you who will do the SHREDDING now.
I got neoprene, which felt about as hard as the BSR orange. A lot softer than the purples. But it’s very expensive. I think BSR is using polyurethane but I’m really not sure and they won’t share their secrets for obvious reasons
80hp? The same as a Stark Varg Alfa electric dirt bike? How many volts, amps, and watts are you actually pulling from the batteries? No way you're making more than 10,000 Watts witch is 13.41 horsepower. 80 horsepower is equal to 59,656 watts. 44.4 volts making 59,656 Watts is 1341.55 amps. Am I crazy 🤣 how many HP is this thing actually making?
Idea, use lego wheels, they have a nice rubber tier and they light and knock off lego is cheap, then to keep the rubber from spinning off, first use a needle and thread and make knots on the inside of the tier, then put the tier on and fill the gap with a mix of pvc cement and contact adhesive "shoe glue" (NOT SUPERGLUE) pvc cement will chemically bond the tier to the hub and the contact adhesive grips the knotes as well as also holding everything together, remember with a wheel the part that is in contact with the ground is moving at 0km/h and the part of the wheel opposite the ground is moving twice the speed of the car, so lots of G forces
all these failures are just offerings to the gods of speed. :) a lot of the ROSSA lads have been having issues with tyre/wheel tech as well, so dont feel to hard done by mate. the ROSSA runway is a lot smoother than yours, so if you can find a tyre/wheel combo that works on your test runs, it'll work at ROSSA. best of luck.
@LukeMaximoBell1 I only know the ROSSA set up from What iv seen on Kevin talbot's vids mate. Anyways. Have you thought about metal cnc'd wheels with soft poly bush tyres?
@ I don’t think aluminium wheels are necessary. My 3D printed PPA-CF wheels are SO strong. If I can get a good grip compound to stay on those wheels then it should be a winner
It looks like your attention to testing detail is paying off. Clearly at this point the wheels are the limiting factor. I am starting to see why steel belted radials are so popular. Maybe it is time to build some RC car steel belted radials.
Standing in short trousers next to the flight path of an unstable ground effect car that approaches you with more than 130mph arouses security concerns... 😬
How do people link up 4 esc's to receiver? Recently saw a build with 4x motors and esc's but me being new to rc am clueless as to how the guy did it. How did you get the dual setup to link to a single receiver?
You probably saw Kevin Talbot. 250 was his goal, but he didn’t reach it. Connecting 4 ESCs to the same receiver is simple. Just attach the 4 signal cables in parallel to one another.
I said many times to many people that want to touch the world record. The tyres for rc is very basic. If I was in your position I will send to some car tyre companies to help on it. I am pretty sure that one of them at least will be make it because it will be a big advertisement for them. Imagine it.
Dude you are a genius! Thank you. I’ve been wanting to make TPU tires but have been concerned about the grip level. I think this trackbite stuff might be the key
Are you limited in length? It just looked like you could do a lot more to improve the airflow as it leaves the back of the car. It looks like building wheels to survive at ths speed is one of the biggest challanges. Are you allowed active aero, can you use a fan to suck it down?
The wide aspect ratio of the car makes having a tapering tail unrealistic and not as helpful as you would think. I might try active aero for the next design! And yes wheels will be a big focus
From all the attempts I've seen the wheels and tyres seem to be the limiting factor. If the tyres had radial fins with flared ends projecting inwards they could slot over and into specially made rims and so be held mechanically instead of with adhesive. Perhaps that might prevent them exploding?
Try War Thunder for free on PC, XBOX, PS5: geni.us/kc6h or IOS & Android: geni.us/EnNnxY
What about fans? To create low pressure under the car. Like the mcMurty supercar. I'm not sure if the application could help on something that small, but it theoretically should make ground effect
I am the guy who made Raz's carbon bodies. We should exchange notes on aerodynamics. Please consider standing somewhere safe while making the speed run the car is capable of chopping your legs off.
Raz already told me I was being an idiot by standing so close 😂 And he is not wrong. At least with the FPV camera I don't need to stand close anymore to line up the drive. I would definitely be keen to chat about it, and I've got some future projects that I would really like your input on.
"it'll probably be fine"
Have a look at the Mercedes-Benz T 80. I think it could be a nice inspiration…old but gold.
The dude wrote “fire extinguisher” on a watering can. What did you expect? 😅
😂
Something I think a lot of people fail on, is the aero. And the main part they fail with, is the leading edge.
You have a very sharp leading edge. Unless you know 100% that the angle that edge is hitting the air at is never going to change, than you need to round the front edge over.
Funnily enough, part of that rounding will also put some air under the car, but not in a terrible way, it will just stop air separation and loss of downforce when hitting bumps.
Something worth having a look at too, is the channel "Super Fast Matt" He's been building a land speed racer, and there's a few things in his latest video that would really help streamline your air flow under the car, and help you to minimise drag, as well as the help reduce the want for the vehicle to get air borne ;)
He also goes deep into some of his aero stuff too, and designing it. :)
As for tyres, you might need to look at making your own, from pure scratch, and likely will require the addition of belts, similar to how car tyres are made. Above that, if you can have the rim in the mould when you make it, then the added benefit is being able to have the tyre go through the rim, and hold on from the inside, with less glue needed :)
I'm keen to see how this progresses, and loved the video! :)
Yeh superfastmatt is great! He gives a good acknowledgement that a lot of aerodynamics is feel rather than science
Very cool project. In the future though, please wear a proper respirator when working with (but especially sanding) a CF infused filament. If you inhale any of the microscopic fibers from the dust it can cause pretty serious and potentially long term lung issues. Cheers, can't wait to see this thing run again.
Yes fair enough! I didn’t quite think about the carbon fiber infused element and that being dangerous. Thanks for the heads up.
Please work on your downforce. Right now, it looks like you only rely on the bottom of the car. But at high speeds a little bump and the car becomes an airplane wing. Maybe winglets in front and a low downforce spoiler. Some sort of diffuser and guide the air together better behind the side pods.
Maybe a venting hole in the front to cool the batteries and motor and a hole above the diffuser
Thanks, I think you are correct. I did design a diffuser, but I need to redesign it because it didn't seem to help. I am working on increasing downforce that doesn't rely on ground effect for the next video. Worst case scenario I will add lead weights which will increase downforce, but also slow down acceleration a bit.
An evacuation fan pulling the air from inside and under the car and putting it into the low pressure behind the car.
@@RadDadisRad This is definitely worth investigating
Once the car is airborne there is nothing you can do. The car going airborne in this situation has nothing to do with the downforce. It has to do with catching an edge with the tire and the asphalt that caused it to flip airborne. No amount of downforce will stop that from happening. It is exactly how people faceplant while snowboarding. Trying to run the car FPV is going to cause him to make many micro corrections that are not necessary and cause the car to drift into catching an edge. When driving from 2nd person's view you don't make as many micro corrections cause you can't see them and you don't cause the car to overreact. Driving FPV will be the biggest downfall IMO.
@@LukeMaximoBell1 There is car that uses a fan to basically suck itself to the road (McMurtry Speirling).Advantage is that you have downforce even at the start with no speed.
The fire extinguisher part…😂😂
Hehe 😜
@@LukeMaximoBell1 there was one in the background
@@xca1ib3r35 Well spotted! 😏
@@xca1ib3r35 Captain Obvious is not a real person.
@@LukeMaximoBell1 but compared to your one, the regular one is no match
If this video were from Kelvin Talbot, this must 100k of views already. But bro you deserve it too! Keep up the good work!
100% 😂 but he has many more viewers than I do so fair enough!
Kevin Talbot also tries to do crazy things with RC cars all the time and has a following for it. I'm new to this channel but he literally started the video by saying "I can see why people like this, this is my first RC speed run." That doesn't make me want to keep watching... I don't understand how or why someone with NO experience just woke up and decided to make the "world's fastest RC car".... To me, that's just him just looking for views/interactions. I can tell there is a ton of time in the video and the research and build. But all that is negated by him doing this for the first time on camera... But that's just my 2 cents.
@@matthewmccalister5594 So are you saying that I shouldn't even bother try and break the record because I am not very experienced with RC cars? I took on this project as an engineering challenge.
Kelvin Talbot has nothing on you. He’s a joker, you’re an engineering genius.
@@HanzDeez Kevin is awesome! He's having fun and trying stuff to see what works. My approach is more technical, but at the end of the day it's the results that matter! 😂 I have yet to prove my skills in this race, but I'll get there!
250mph will only be possible with a massive jump in tires technology. They power is there now, but no one can put it to the ground without exploding tires. I personally feel like the tires and wheels need to be much narrower as well. Like maybe 1/2 the current width.
That would help for the front wheels. But then you also have less foam so it will wear down quicker… it’s tricky
@@LukeMaximoBell1 Why not use wheels of bigger diameter ? they would have less RPMs for the same speed, helping the tyre to survive
I think you’re right that tyres are the main limiting factor but it’s mainly keeping them on the rims that’s the big problem. I have a feeling that the ultimate solution will involve a set of tyres per run and perhaps Kevlar reinforcement into the bargain. And maybe injection moulding the foam onto the wheels. It’s not a cheap hobby by any means
Yeh anything too dense and it pulls itself off the rim with the forces. I’ve got some good ideas to try out thoufh
You went through all that trouble in CFD, and then completely destroyed the aero with a sloppy splitter and massive lifting body hood bolts
The splitter has been updated since and I’ve got a new mounting system to avoid the pins at the top 🙌🏼
Love seeing a South African content creator making such strides on TH-cam.
Thanks man! Happy to represent the country 🇿🇦
I’ll offer one tip to help your journey. - ditch the central vertical fin. I smashed one of my cars so many times trying to persevere with a single fin. Stability was transformed when I finally gave up and switched to twin side mounted vertical fins. Good luck with the project!
Ahh very interesting... Initially I was going for 2 fins on the sides, but I wanted my FPV view dead centre so I went for the central fin. But I trust your judgement on this one, so I will move to 2 side fins. If there are any obvious mistakes you see me making that I could avoid then please feel free to share! 🙌🏼 Thanks!
Maybe I will do 3 fins so I can keep my center FPV view. Haha. They don't introduce that much drag.
With a single fin, my car was almost uncontrollable over 150. It was Martin Peace that kept telling me it was the fin. He begged me to change it. I did a trackside swap to twin fins and put in a solid 175mph (pb at the time) in the subsequent runs.
@@scorchedparts8013 That's awesome! I'll definitely be switching over to dual side fins then.
Hey man, I'm two minutes in and all I gotta say is that a lot of us stand on a ladder while speed running for a reason. Please keep safety in mind when running speed running rc cars. A lot of us spend an entire season refining suspension and aero while slowly pushing the car a little further. It's a great hobby and I wish you luck on your adventure.
Yeh I know I was standing stupidly close to the car on the early passes. Don’t worry I’m not doing that anymore and with the FPV I can stand far away.
@LukeMaximoBell1 I'm glad to hear it. You are working with a great chassis. Just remember that sometimes less is more. Some of the fastest rc cars are single motor for a reason. Don't try too hard to reinvent the wheel ;)
@@jdmjedi777 Yes for sure that is good advice! Ideally a single motor is the way to go.
Suggestions:
Make front wheels/tires narrow as possible; less wind drag, rolling drag, rotating inertia, and understeer is much better than oversteer at speed.
Raise rear suspension for underbody vacuum, stiffen swaybar for counteracting stability issues
Longer rudder (not costly to drag when going straight) to save those tire explosion scenarios
Thanks! These are all good ideas 🙌🏼
Playing War Thunder is really not the best way to get rid of frustration 😂
It is if you are winning!! 🥇😏😂
😂definitely not
Looks like it's time to move on to RC cars and break records. I bet the people who practice this hobby didn't see this coming. Good job.😂
Probably not but I’ve still got quite a way to go to take the record 😎😂
@LukeMaximoBell1 The worst or most difficult thing about this is the tire
@@MML66 Yes! Spending $80 on a set of wheels for every speed run over 200MPH is intense 😅
@@LukeMaximoBell1Perhaps consider generative design using Fusion 360 for the wheel to stop it coning and maybe moulding the tyre directly onto the wheel using a two-part Urethane of the perfect shore hardness? The wheels would probably need to be 3D printed in Nylon.
@@andylewis7360 I have never used 2 part urethane before but maybe I should look into it...
Great project and video! Some crazy speeds already! BTW have you seen the speeds of Dynamic soaring rc gliders?
I do a lot of prototyping , some unsolicited thoughts that may or may not be useful. If you do any sanding of a cf or gf reinforced printed parts you should really have respiratory protection, as though you were sanding any other composite part. You dont need to use such a expensive material for printed vac form moulds, PC or something like that will do fine for much less. You would have had a better result also if you arranged your body sections on the plate so they are aligned with the nose of the car pointing up. Then use pins, to locate the sections. Model in holes for the middle low point in the cad.
Also if minimising the weight to the nth degree is not needed and you dont need a clear body then I would just use a printed body, save the hassle of all the molding and gain iteration speed etc. FDm prints can be filled with PU for additional strength.
Maybe casting a pu tire onto a printed wheel could be quite strong esp if it is locked in by the profile of the wheel rim. You might have seen bambus new tpu for ams, I dont know how tough or flexible that material is, but you might be able to do a multi material print when you print the tire and the wheel in one part. Not sure what might bond with the tpu though. - edit petg does apparently, Though you could use something else and lock it in place mechanically.
Those are some very interesting thoughts. The printing of something of this size makes it too much work to print a body every time I reckon. Especially because it won't be as strong.
Funny you mention the printing of the wheel using TPU, my dad and I were literally discussing that this week. I think it would be awesome, but the layer by layer printing would make it difficult. We would really need dual print heads. One for TPU and one for PPA-CF. But I am going to experiment with TPU tires for the next video. These foam tires work pretty well, but when you are doing speed runs over 200 MPH they only last 1 run which is crazy considering a set costs about $80.A mechanical locking system assisted by glue might be the best option for now,
lekker! good job, thanks for taking us along on the journey, good luck!
Thanks bro! I'm gonna need it 😂
13:02: ''safety is my number one priority'' crazy russian hacker fan then ??
Accurate 😂
I will see that. At least you're doing the experiment the maximum efficiency from projects
Yes I am always trying to maximise efficiency!
In South Africa, that's really a fire extinguisher 😂😂
Yes!! 😂
The high speed cars in RL used machined alu wheels. Might be worth a shot. you could skeletonize them, then cast the tread in place, then machine them and balance them. Should be good for more dirability and higher rpm.
The 3D printed wheels are bulletproof 😅 the problem is getting the right foam and getting it nicely glued to the wheel. But I’ve got some ideas
"They're spinning fast, they generate a lot of noise, a lot of drag, they just do not help the situation." Bold statrment on the single most important piece in a car 🤣
Tell that to everybody who uses open wheel designs for their high speed RC cars. haha
14:15 the wheel came off because the locking grub screw isnt reverse thread and it unscrews its self from just driving it. huge design flaw by AARMA
Actually the CVD axle broke entirely! It wasn’t just the wheel falling off
Hahaha, nooooo…!
Now we’re never going to get another ‘World Record Attempt’ from Kevin Talbot!
Amazing video! Thanks for taking us along for the ride 🤩🙌
Hahaha, nah even if I do manage to break it I don’t think Kevin would ever stop trying 😂
@@LukeMaximoBell1Love it!
Thanks so much again.
Out of curiosity, would a speed tail extending into ‘detached airflow’ at the back of the car (with a larger & shallower sloped rear defuser under the car for more downforce) work on this type of high speed car?
Or is there an advantage over the blunt rear end of the car?
Thanks again.
@@lecolintube Because the car is very wide extending the tear drop shape or tail doesn't really work because of how long it has to be. If I could make the car more slender then that shape would be a lot more efficient.
@ Awesome, thanks so much for the explanation. (I’ve loved learning along side you, and getting further insight into the design choices).
Thanks so much again! 🧡🕊️🙌
Can’t wait to see the next video!!!
Kevin Talbot can not focus on one project long enough to finish anything, adhd most likely.
Great work so far. Yeah the wheels and tires really seem to be the weak spot on most speed run cars. Looking forward to the next vid.Do you think it wouild be possible to design a wheel that doesn't have a tire? It's one piece out of a material that is grippy but also strong enough not to fly apart? Just a thought.
Great thinking. I don’t think so because anything too hard will put too much strain on the axles like you saw in this video. However I am experimenting with some materials that are more like rubber than they are like foam. Foam tends to wear down a bit too quickly. Wait for video 2 to see what I try!
@15:32 the rear end gets light causing uncontrollable yaw. A left front tire delaminating makes the car go left, it doesn't make the car pull hard right. You need to increase the rear ride height and add shock travel limiters as well as add vertical stabilizers behind the centerline on the rear wheels as well as avoid the bump that lifted the tires long enough to freewheel the foam off.
No downforce, no Rudder and a bumpy road is a recipe for disaster every time
I did runs before this at basically the same speed where the cat stayed in control. So I think it’s more likely that the wheel failure caused the crash
@LukeMaximoBell1 except that it pulled the wrong direction for it to be a wheel failure. Also you can see the yaw was induced before the chunks of foam left the tire which is indicative of a freewheeling not a loaded failure
@@stp440 True, unless the car started turning left because of the wheel failure and the gyro stabalised steering overcorrected to the right and then it lost traction. Either way, I agree with you that I need more downforce
@LukeMaximoBell1 once a tire let's go there's no bringing it back. You can turn to full right lock and its still not going to go anywhere but left, I've seen and experienced it many times. I'm not trying to be rude herr, I just don't like watching bad things happen to good cars and people and want to see you do everything possible to avoid another expensive crash.
Completely fair. I am still fairly new to this, so I always take on board what experienced drivers have experienced. I would be an idiot not to! haha. What I did notice while driving, is the car felt a lot less stable on the run where it crashed, compared to the previous runs. You could be totally right that it was a downforce issue. I'm definitely going to investigate introducing more downforce in the future. And hopefully I can make it adjustable as well.
I am so glad you are playing with other wheel and rubber designs. Maybe make the solid rubber a bit thicker and try printing a solid tire from TPU or something similar. I was watching Kevin Talbot, but he just stuck to foam wheels. I still think the right shore rating and the correct thickness may make a difference. Love your ingenuity. Keep it going. Don't just break the record, smash it!!!
Thanks so much, what an epic comment. The wheels for sure are the biggest failure point for the guys going the quickest currently which I why I am putting time into it. But man it’s difficult to find the right foam and adhesive. I am going to play around with TPU tires for the next video so let’s see how that goes!
Just a tip. The hobbywing ESC cut out throttle because it can only draw its peak current for a couple seconds. You have to feather the throttle for high speed. For example. Pin the throttle trigger slowly to 50% then release throttle and wait like half a second, then pin it to 70%. Release throttle and wait half a second, and so on. Until you run out of road. that Max 4 can draw like 2000 amps but only for like a second.
You are absolutely right! I experienced this first hand with my single 70125 setup. It would accelerate then slow down, then accelerate and slow down. The perfect pass launch control was a bit aggressive. But that current limiter is frustrating. I don’t think it’s a feasible ESC to use for this record unfortunately.
Have you considered torsion bars with dampers in stead of the coils + dampers? In cars you get wheel hop when suspension has too much soft points. The foam may have failed because of hopping over the surface.
Fair point, but Raz has tested out these springs loads and knows what works best so I trust his judgment 🙌🏼
Great to see some content on the rc car speed record attempts after watching all the hard work you put into building the high speed drone.
Keep up the great work mate. Lekka!
Thanks bro! It’s a lot of work! Hope to get the record next year 🙌🏼
Make your rims out of aluminum with a groove towards each end where the tire mounts. This will hold more glue for your tires.
The 3D printed PPA-CF wheels are rock solid. I just need to get the foam to glue properly
@@LukeMaximoBell1Some time ago people were experimenting with Kevlar threads around the tread of the tyre in strategic places and a dot of CA glue on the knot. Far as I remember the results were quite encouraging
That's actually a pretty cool idea. If I 3D print the wheels I could also introduce a thread like that fairly easily.
Name that old school TH-camr: "Welcome to my luboruhtoree where safety is #1 prioriteh." *Puts on safety glasses.*
Who is this? haha
This is truly awesome and its good to see your dads involved in it too Luke, hopefully you can break the 250mph or 400kph barrier eventually!
Thanks so much! 🙌🏼 yeh passing that 250 : 400 mark is the goal 🤩🤞
@@LukeMaximoBell1 Go all out go for big number of 350mph, that should be one in the eye for a certain Swedish Car company....its not Volvo, it begins with a K!
@ 1 step at a time!! 😂😂 100% going to need better wheels though if we want to get over 250 MPH
@@LukeMaximoBell1 Yeah baby steps, I hope you can do it, even if it means resorting to steel tyres, but who knows you may get lucky on a design!
I've got some cool ideas for the tires that I'm looking forward to testing out!
Vacuum forming is a great way to make bodies. It’s hard to make 3D printed molds because you’re using a thermoplastic to form a thermoplastic. As you mentioned making the mold “stronger” helps but it’s really thermal mass that you’re adding. If your set on vacuum forming you should do a glass layer with epoxy to get a ridged shell, then at that point just wet layup composite shells would be better.
(If I just watch enough of the video my comment is irrelevant)
Haha fair enough! Thanks for the comment
@ I just had an idea for your wheels if it’s worth anything. If your wheels (just the rim portion) are deforming at higher speeds you could mess with wrapping them with carbon fiber or Kevlar tow. The idea would be the wrapping would act like a belted rim. Carbon does much better in tension but it might help keep things glued to the rim if it’s not deforming so much at speed.
(Silly ideas spark good ones)
Not a bad idea! I'm going to test 3d printing the tire portion where I could introduce a reinforcement midway through the print.
That tapered design will reduce drag but at what speed does that diminished drag turn into lift?
Very good question. The tapering on the sides doesn’t generate lift, but curving the top down will because it generates low pressure above.
@@LukeMaximoBell1 correct, the low pressure from the decreased drag will create a low pressure pocket above the rear of the car. When that pressure differential becomes great enough the weight of the car will no longer be enough to resist that low pressure zone. The low pressure will also try to promote the rear bodywork to balloon to fill that low pressure zone, the benefit is you can decrease that pressure differential by forcing the air that is inside the bodywork and under the car into that low pressure zone. Fan cars of the 60s and 70s were outlawed in racing because of how stable and successful they were.
@@RadDadisRad Do you mean forcing the air inside the cover of the car out the back? At the end of the day I am not opposed to adding in lead weights around the car for extra downforce! haha. It will mean slower acceleration and braking but shouldn't affect top speed at long as I have enough room.
@@LukeMaximoBell1 you could add weight. I am just suggesting a different means. I haven’t seen it done on RC level stuff. Maybe for good reason or maybe because people aren’t abstract enough to pursue alternative means of stability.
@@RadDadisRadQuite so. I think a variation on the theme of the McMurtry Speirling is the way to go ultimately.
Take a look at the trail blazers before you on the salt lakes. The back of the car needs a taper to bring the air back together. Install a flight controller with gps, gyro, and cruise. It will keep your car running straight. Plus you can send lots of telemetry data back to your fpv goggles like amps, volts, speed.
The wide aspect ratio of the car makes having a tapering tail unrealistic and not as helpful as you would think. The car is already running with a flight controller and sends a lot of telemtry back to my goggles
Welcome to the wonderful world of ( Build-Test-Crash ) - Repeat ad infinitum, Luke. I think you’re absolutely bang-on going FPV. Essentially speed record running is drag racing with far more tricky aerodynamics and wheel/tyre combos. As I found to my extreme cost, trying to coax an ERevo above 100mph! 😂
You might consider going the fan car route as keeping your model on the ground becomes more and more difficult the faster you go.
BTW I’ve got a Tim Smith-built dragster gathering dust in my garage if you fancy going that route sometime.
Thanks! Yeh the FPV makes it so much easier and fun actually! I might try the fan car method next build. 😎
@@LukeMaximoBell1 it’s not as easy as it may seem because a chassis plate is such an important part of torsional rigidity and big holes in that are going to compromise that rigidity. Also you won’t be able to do it with a vac-formed body because your fan will just suck it in. You’re pretty close to a Chaparral 2J shape already so maybe that’s the way to go, just longer, to accommodate a couple of ducted fans. Really looking forward to seeing how this project develops. 😊👍🏻
@@andylewis7360 That is true, I really don't want to weaken the chassis of the car! There is likely space for fans at the back already so maybe I will try that.
Really cool project! Probably a good idea to wear some kind of PPE when sanding carbon fiber prints though, that dust is nasty stuff. The microsplinters of CF can really irritate the skin and lungs, especially over regular exposures.
Yes you are right. I didn’t think about it at the time that the filament is carbon fiber infused
So cool, i know how much work it takes to do all of that!
Thanks! It’s soooo much work 😅
You could consider adding fans for down force as well, if you have them mounted to draw air up through the car you can pull the car down onto the tyres with more force than that cars weight would allow.
Yes I might try this for the next build! Would be pretty awesome!!
At least you read the comment Section...
I saw a Video that AUDI runs the "Front Diff" at a Higher Rotational Speed than the Rear Diff, for High Speed Stability.
Your Car needs to be 50% Longer, 20% Wider and 30% Heavier. As it is OUT of SCALE for the Road Surface.
You will need REAL REINFORCED TIRES and RIMS to match the REAL SURFACE... No more Toy Hobby Stuff.
Yes it’s true that the tires are out of scale. That’s probably why they wear down so fast!
Great video. That ESC and motor is not competitive in the speed run game. For 8S its xlx2 all the way and for 12S the MadMax20 400Amp 12S is where its at. New speed record for single motor car is 200mph as of last week. Those SMC V3 are top dog. ONYX and SMC I would say is tje 2 current kings of speed run batteries. Your doing a great job. Im currently builsing a custom Losi dbxle dual 12S setup to chase the 1/5 off road record.
Yea for sure. I can’t say too much but Hobbywing is joining the speed run game next year ⚡️ I was looking at the Mad Max20 and it looks awesome. Would even be able to up it to 15S, which would be better.
200 mph for single motor is epic!!
Yes the MadMax21 can go 16S. Ive got 2 of madmad15's and 1 madmax20. They are really awesome. Im still pushing my single motor limitless on a 2028 1700kv with xlx2. My biggest barrier has been batteries. They are so critical its crazy. On a single 6S cnhl 9000mah I would pull the voltage down from 25V to 13V at and the esc would just cut everything. Draws 480amps. Then I out dual 6S 9000cnhal in parallel and tje voltsge stabilized at 19V and it ran like a rocket. Having batteries that van maintain Voltage is critical. Good luck man looking forward. Sterkte.h@@LukeMaximoBell1
@ whoah that is some massive voltage sag. SMC makes the best batteries for these purposes. Good to know that the Max 20 is a reliable product. I’m definitely interested in testing it out. Do you know what current draw you’ve gotten on it? Im just curious to know if it has a current limiter on it or not, ie can you go over 400A continuous draw with sufficient cooling
@@raindeergames6104 Onyx uses SMC’s old battery tech
one small advice if I may, you should repurpose wheels from an electric skateboard/scooter, they are designed to handle high torque and won't disintegrate with the weight of your rc build. good job my friend & good luck for the world record !
Not a bad idea! I might give it a try! 🙌🏼
I'm thinking if those batteries were securely strapped to the car that the car would have been totally destroyed. The kinetic energy the batteries hold is more than the car itself. Losing the batteries helped the car to stop sooner and with less damage. But I'm not an engineer and I probably have no idea what I'm talking about. Thanks for your videos! Now I'd be concerned that the batteries could burst into flames at any time.
I created a TPU housing for the batteries which you can see. It protects them brilliantly. You have a fair point. But the batteries weigh about 2.5kg together. The car weighs about 8kg
Nice build! Keep up the good work. Have you tried looking into 3D printing the rims and do a polyurethane poor? Similar to skateboard/longboard wheels.
No I have not!! I very well might try that in my next video 🙌🏼
Great - love the whole process. Wouldn't a tail fin be better than front wheels in steering - it would reduce the need for grip and the effect of bumps.
I have thought about this!! I might introduce a moving tail for steering in the next version. Would be pretty awesome
Take a look at rf / frequency welding to bond the wheels to the foam, though you could be exceeding the material limits of the foam. Might be worth it to call or write BSR and see if they have any high speed prototype foam compounds you could test 🤷♂️ 🤓
Interesting idea, I'll check it out!
Have ran 247.8 a few years back. Gaveup on the 250 but you got it!
MPH??
There is nothing wrong with wheel deformation, you just have to engineer it in.
As the wheel increases speed, allow it to expand. It will increase your gear ratio as you go faster.
Dragster tires do just that.
Perhaps look at Kevlar belting.
It's a problem when the wheel explodes! This has happened with some other people I have seen.
The “mold failure” with the dimples may have made the body more aerodynamic like a golf ball?
The air turbulence could cause less vacuum on the back of the car. Also maybe something like a whisker biscuit on the bottom of the body/ or frame to keep air from getting under the body. I’m no engineer just some thoughts
Also maybe the wheels could be significantly bigger to lower rpm and use portals on the wheels for gear reduction and to keep the frame close to the ground.
Brainstorming with you
You’ve got some good ideas there. Except for the dimples. That’s a bit of a myth. But in saying so I’ll model that in my next video just to make certain. The skirt at the bottom of the car helps a lot with drag.
Larger wheels is also a bonus. My custom wheels are 125mm while the stock wheels are 105mm
Even if it doesn’t help with aerodynamics (but doesn’t hurt) maybe it would with rigidity
@ yeh that’s possible for sure. I’m curious to put it in the sim and see what it says
Maybe you like to try Lehner motors, you can fully configure the specs and their RPM range is insane even for the lower KV motors.
Yeh, I might reach out to them to see if they are interested. They have some beasts in their arsenal!
@LukeMaximoBell1 Thanks for your video! Great content.
I think you need solid Aluminum wheels,with 5-6mm solid rubber tire ,attached with the most advanced affordable adhesive you can get,you must also get a wheel balancer for RC cars/buggies,they are cheap,also you could experiment as "Myth Busters" did with golf ball dimples,since you already made the mold for the body.
The 3D Printed PPA-CF wheels are just as strong as aluminium would be. But I've got some good ideas for rubber wheels!
I see that the drag level is not high so no need for a wing, but it definitely needs a better spoiler. Also, try making the car as low as possible, so the air doesn’t lift the car. Also, I don’t know if it will work, but a turbofan/propeller engine would also work.
Yes I might make a spoiler for the next build! 😎
I really love that you say KPH & MPH
Loads of my viewers are from the US and UK so I have to! haha
Probably need to look into the kinds of resins used to make skateboard wheels, as skateboards see all kinds of abuse while in use. Could try something where the hub is put into a mold, and then the resin is cast over it to create the tire. I'd guess for more surface area on the rim for adhesion, may want something grooved similar to a honey-baster. Should not come apart in any fashion unless destroying that tire.
I've said it before when watching different people try this, the wheels and tires are the main limiting factor. So figuring that out is really the challenge. Most people have more than enough power, and the aero of those things is fairly standard too at those limits.
Yes this could be a good idea! I'll check it out for the next build! 🤩
There is a reason why all land speed record cars don't have rubber wheels
True!!
@@LukeMaximoBell1There ya go. Turned aluminium wheels and off to Hakskeen Pan. 15km should do it! 😂
That "flight" shaved off 70kmph quick, probably why that rig isn't completely scrap now.
Good point! So that was kind of lucky!
@@LukeMaximoBell1 I sent you a mail regarding wheel design
5:57 There was a cool damascus-like top surface pattern there, I think it would be a good idea to incorperate it into future projects?
The table top?
@@LukeMaximoBell1 Nah, the the 3d printed car shape thing
@@spyderexe2324 Ohhh okay.
Absolutely brilliant. Did youbtryva splitter at the front of the car...so the horizontal plane stick out in front at bottom...
Slightly, but it’s more to support the cover from shattering from contact with the road
Great video. I'm looking forward to the journey. I hope the watering can is full of sand!?!?!?!? Keep up the great work :)
Hahahaha no it’s not, but the fire extinguisher behind it should help 😏
Try making a void or a cavity under the chassis connected to the rear of the car. In order to make a vacuum that suction the car to the road, the faster it goes
Or a fan like the McMurtry Speirling
Yes! I might try this for the next build! 🤩
Yes not a bad design. Floor design is very important
Jislaike, you're a cool oke doing cool stuff!
Thanks bro! 😎 all part of the job 😂
I have that same fire extinguisher. Some donut put petrol in it before I used it. RIP, Shorty McShort Short the Squirrel. 😥
Eish 😂😂😂
I wonder if its possible to have negative tyre pressure...... The vacuum could allow a soft material for grip but help reduce the tyre ballooning at high rpm....
No idea how you would make something like that though.!
Great approach though, i think you can do it
Maybe you could attach the tyres at a high temperature, so when they cool a negative pressure is created.....
That’s quite an interesting idea! Worth looking in to 🙌🏼
Interesting video, thanks. Note that 1.21e+2 is 121 (Newtons), not 12 as you state in the video. Similarly 7.09e+1 is 70.9 (Newtons), not 7.
Yes you are correct! My mistake!
I wonder how it would Handle if it had ALLOY WHEELS with close together short TUNGSTEN SPIKES..
No Rubber, just Alloy and Tungsten.
No more Tarmac destroying your Foam Tires, it's you who will do the SHREDDING now.
That would be pretty epic! Just very complicated
Such a knarly build! keep up the good work!
Thanks!! 😎 stay tuned for more progress and hopefully a world record!
This is a very promising speed car. I am excited to see how you improve it!
Thanks, me too! I’m only getting started on this record, but it’s gonna be fun 😎
@@LukeMaximoBell1 you have a different approach than the others chasing the same thing, but I'm this case that's a good thing.
Love your videos!
keep it up mate
Thanks Bro!
Raz shifrin is one of the best guys out there!!
Yeh Raz is the best 🙌🏼
He certainly is! The guys at ROSSA are a great crew too
You could print housings for the wheels to reduce the dust build up inside of the shell..
Yes the wheel design I currently have pulls in a lot of air, so I might have to reduce this 🙈
what kind of foam sheet did you use to make the foam wheels? Thinking about making custom wheels for a 1/10 pan car maybe around 25-30A durometer
I got neoprene, which felt about as hard as the BSR orange. A lot softer than the purples. But it’s very expensive. I think BSR is using polyurethane but I’m really not sure and they won’t share their secrets for obvious reasons
80hp? The same as a Stark Varg Alfa electric dirt bike? How many volts, amps, and watts are you actually pulling from the batteries? No way you're making more than 10,000 Watts witch is 13.41 horsepower. 80 horsepower is equal to 59,656 watts. 44.4 volts making 59,656 Watts is 1341.55 amps. Am I crazy 🤣 how many HP is this thing actually making?
Dude a lot more than you think! The motors in these cars regularly pull up to 700A per motor! So you do the math and 80HP is about right 😂
44.4V X 1400 A = 62,160 watts is equal to 83.36 horsepower
Idea, use lego wheels, they have a nice rubber tier and they light and knock off lego is cheap, then to keep the rubber from spinning off, first use a needle and thread and make knots on the inside of the tier, then put the tier on and fill the gap with a mix of pvc cement and contact adhesive "shoe glue" (NOT SUPERGLUE) pvc cement will chemically bond the tier to the hub and the contact adhesive grips the knotes as well as also holding everything together, remember with a wheel the part that is in contact with the ground is moving at 0km/h and the part of the wheel opposite the ground is moving twice the speed of the car, so lots of G forces
I don't know if lego wheels are strong enough, but this is an interesting idea to think about!
Bro that fire extinguisher 😂
😂😂😂
wow Tks to Raz to have boist tje hobby that far and you 2
Yeh Raz is the best!
Great video! I hope you reach your goal!
Thanks! Stay tuned 😎
all these failures are just offerings to the gods of speed. :)
a lot of the ROSSA lads have been having issues with tyre/wheel tech as well, so dont feel to hard done by mate.
the ROSSA runway is a lot smoother than yours, so if you can find a tyre/wheel combo that works on your test runs, it'll work at ROSSA.
best of luck.
Hahaha they have a lot of offerings 😂 Raz actually says the Rossa Road isn’t great. It might be smooth, but not the flattest? Not sure.
@LukeMaximoBell1 I only know the ROSSA set up from What iv seen on Kevin talbot's vids mate.
Anyways. Have you thought about metal cnc'd wheels with soft poly bush tyres?
@ I don’t think aluminium wheels are necessary. My 3D printed PPA-CF wheels are SO strong. If I can get a good grip compound to stay on those wheels then it should be a winner
@@LukeMaximoBell1 well sir, you just earned yourself a lil sub from me. looking forward to more offerings :)
Surprised You didnt use castle creations Set up Raz Shifrin a big fan of castle.
Haha he tried but I wanted to try Hobbywing first 😂
Nice Onewheel!
Thanks! It’s SO helpful!
I wonder about the runway where the planes did not take off and land. The cement could be smoother there. Otherwise, that looks like a good location.
It’s pretty much the same across the whole thing. I think the roughness isn’t an issue
@@LukeMaximoBell1 Oh, good luck!
It looks like your attention to testing detail is paying off. Clearly at this point the wheels are the limiting factor. I am starting to see why steel belted radials are so popular. Maybe it is time to build some RC car steel belted radials.
Yes the wheels are a nightmare in these high speed RC cars. It’s going to be a big focus for me going forward in this project
Standing in short trousers next to the flight path of an unstable ground effect car that approaches you with more than 130mph arouses security concerns... 😬
You aren’t wrong 😂 I realised the stupidity afterwards
That crash was a blowover 100%
The car turns sideways and was then lifted. It turned sideways because the wheels failed and couldn't grip
@ hope the next time you get it running again the same thing doesn’t happen
@@A_river_dirt_cheese me too! Haha
How do people link up 4 esc's to receiver? Recently saw a build with 4x motors and esc's but me being new to rc am clueless as to how the guy did it. How did you get the dual setup to link to a single receiver?
You probably saw Kevin Talbot. 250 was his goal, but he didn’t reach it. Connecting 4 ESCs to the same receiver is simple. Just attach the 4 signal cables in parallel to one another.
So the car got to 200Km/h and the wr is 350km/h. At least it's a little bit over half of it! lol, but I'll be here to watch that wr being broken!
I got up to 240kph. But yeh I’m still far off the record. These things take time 😅
Greetings,
Question:
If you textured the surface areas that are subjected to parasite drag, would that detach the air mass that causes that drag?
Do you mean texture the surfaces to purposely detach airflow?
@
Yes. Like golf ball or sharkskin or other.
I said many times to many people that want to touch the world record. The tyres for rc is very basic. If I was in your position I will send to some car tyre companies to help on it. I am pretty sure that one of them at least will be make it because it will be a big advertisement for them. Imagine it.
Yeh you are right. I mean maybe it is worth reaching out to them… I might try that!
Email Hoosier first. The undisputed kings of straight line speed.
Ditch the central fin and integrate 2 smaller fins to the wheel archs
Where will the camera go then? 😅
print tires out of 98a tpu. then coat the tire in pj1 trackbite. nice videos
Dude you are a genius! Thank you. I’ve been wanting to make TPU tires but have been concerned about the grip level. I think this trackbite stuff might be the key
Glad I can help. Can't wait for the next video
I hope you brought Band-Aids in case it hits your ankle. probably would only be a moderate scratch.
Yeh would not want to get in the way of that!
There’s always a smooth spot on a run way. You just have to find it.
Yeh this runway is not bad!
Time to build a rocket rc car and leave these guys behind
That would be such a fun project!!
whats with the blurring? also, cool video, really cool keep up the great work
I can’t share the product details yet
@ ohh ok cool, i've never seen that before
Are you limited in length? It just looked like you could do a lot more to improve the airflow as it leaves the back of the car. It looks like building wheels to survive at ths speed is one of the biggest challanges. Are you allowed active aero, can you use a fan to suck it down?
The wide aspect ratio of the car makes having a tapering tail unrealistic and not as helpful as you would think. I might try active aero for the next design! And yes wheels will be a big focus
Amazing build 🤗👍 look forward to the next video and some record breaking 😮 Also @KevinTalbotTV’s reaction
Thanks! I am so keen to break this record. I am now fully invested and won’t stop until I can do it 😎
@@LukeMaximoBell1wonderful, I’ll be cheering on along the way 🎉🤗🚀 wish you not just success but the best journey as well 🙏👍
From all the attempts I've seen the wheels and tyres seem to be the limiting factor. If the tyres had radial fins with flared ends projecting inwards they could slot over and into specially made rims and so be held mechanically instead of with adhesive. Perhaps that might prevent them exploding?
Yeh it’s a fair point. The problem is at some point the foam stays glued to the hub and rips itself apart so it’s quite complicated…
@LukeMaximoBell1 real race cars don't use foam and glue. They use stronger materials which are held in place via positive location.
7:00-Did he just say he lets OFF steam when he plays war thunder. He definitely doesn't understand that grind
Hahahaha, maybe I am not taking it as seriously as I should 😂 I just like blowing stuff up and don’t really care if I win or lose
you could have printed your mold hollow and just filled it with the cheapest cement/mortar and saved a lot of time and effort
That's an interesting idea! Not sure if it would be strong enough, but might be worth trying
@@LukeMaximoBell1 solid filled concrete is extremely strong against compression loads
@ I’ve never tried it before but I will do some research
Awesome job keep it up 💪🏻🏁🙌🏻
Thanks! Stay tuned for the record breaking car! 🤩