I appreciate the fact that you're willing to think (and rethink) your work on a public forum like this, Steve. Wishing you and your family a good Christmas break
Good call on the movable lower cone. That's how I built my jig and I like how that feature works. The Arctos jig was conceived and designed by two smart people (Gary Helfrich (Ibis) and Ron Sutphin (UBI founder)). You can't really go wrong by following their lead.
To "quickly fix" the sub assembly hardware crushing the extrusion out of shape, you could machine two small cube the width of the t-slot that fit on on each other side of the M8 bolt that sits flush to the bottom of the slot to the top of the extrusion. And you could affix them with one single like M6x15 cap screw. (At first I was thinking of machining one spacer but that M8 takes most of the space in the t-slot so I don't think there would be enough meat for a simple one spacer with a hole in the middle.)
Right on about the space taken up from the M8 screw. Maybe similar to your idea I could machine some blocks and sandwich them between the m8 screw. The blocks would be snug to stay in place but not to snug. Could be another option for a quick fix. But I may just wait to re-do the assembly! ;)
Thanks man! Work continues ;) But man has this build thrown me for a loop. I start out doing it one way and then change it later. This has been the story of this build so far. Regardless of where I'm at, I'll put a video out soon after the new year. Better to keep you guys up to date on the build. Have a Happy New Year!
I love boredom, boredom's my favorite. One suggestion about your thru bolt connections... Can you machine some sleeves for the bottom side to the required depth to prevent any deformation of the 80/20? you'd have to machine an appropriate amount on the bottom side of the 80/20 to do this. Also on the bottom head tube cone/locator... How about machining different size locators that are flat with a step in them for the different size tubes you use? Just spitballin here man.. Happy new year ;)
I just found you a few days ago and subscribed immediately! I've watched a couple dozen of your videos and am in a position to say that you make a darn fine video. Great production; great music; and , as a bike nerd, great content! I could go on... -RA
Despite the problems you are having with your frame jig, it still is a kick ass setup, LOL. I build mini bikes from scratch and for the frame jig I use a flat piece of plywood with a line down the center. That's it, LOL. I'd love to just have a flat table that just doesn't warp. Maybe someday. Just subed, great vids.
I realize I'm seven months late and you may fix this later but what if you just boxed the area around the bolt (that goes through the extrusions). As long as it hasn't flexed too far and it doesn't wrap under heat that could work. FYI I have zero experience, but I'm really enjoying the channel!
Hi Steve, Did you comment any of those parametric setup changes with the guys at Arctos Jigs? And could make a video of the pivoting around the bottom bracket? Or at least give an insight on how to change that assembly?
Take a look at 44 Bikes version of the Arctos. Chris used a plate that extends down to the BB for the pivot point. This I think is the best option because it's a simple design but also very rigid. www.44bikes.com/44-bikes-frame-jig-progress/
Another awesome video! currently making my jig which is almost the same as yours, would it matter if i just shifter the bb mount up so it was inline with the main support and thus rotated centrally to the bb. and the headtube presumably could just be fixed in place by that point quite easily. how do you plan about doing them both?
I recommend keeping the BB pivot at center and roughly at the same drop I have mine (standard position below the spine). The reason for this is that its best for the central support of the jig (the spine) to be in the middle of it all (at the center of the bike being fixtured). You'll have less run out this way. Good luck!
The P3D plan is the current state of my jig. I haven't made any new mods to my jig yet, it still has the flaws I discuss in the video unfortunately. I do plan to update my jig this year though.
The bottom I think is the most reliable way to measure distances. And because it's the point that is measured on most Archtos Jigs, which is the father to my jig.
boredom defiantly my thing when it's this good... massive thumbs up Mr Pithy....
Hahaha thanks for watching :D
I have watch all of your videos I think in the last 12 hours could be 13 ....I love the way you build your stuff
Hhaaha thanks for watching! Now go outside and get some air ;)
I appreciate the fact that you're willing to think (and rethink) your work on a public forum like this, Steve. Wishing you and your family a good Christmas break
Thanks Gary! It's thanks to all you guys who comment and ask those questions, one's like "what would you have changed?". Have a Happy New Year man!
Good call on the movable lower cone. That's how I built my jig and I like how that feature works. The Arctos jig was conceived and designed by two smart people (Gary Helfrich (Ibis) and Ron Sutphin (UBI founder)). You can't really go wrong by following their lead.
Awesome! Such a great design. So practical and I love the versatility. Those guys are geniuses!
Please make your updated version of this jig, I so want to see it!
Good tips I'll keep in min if I ever build a jig like yours. Now I use particle board and U-bolts.
If it gets it straight, thats what counts. :)
Happy Holidays!
Thanks, and to you as well!
To "quickly fix" the sub assembly hardware crushing the extrusion out of shape, you could machine two small cube the width of the t-slot that fit on on each other side of the M8 bolt that sits flush to the bottom of the slot to the top of the extrusion. And you could affix them with one single like M6x15 cap screw. (At first I was thinking of machining one spacer but that M8 takes most of the space in the t-slot so I don't think there would be enough meat for a simple one spacer with a hole in the middle.)
Right on about the space taken up from the M8 screw. Maybe similar to your idea I could machine some blocks and sandwich them between the m8 screw. The blocks would be snug to stay in place but not to snug. Could be another option for a quick fix. But I may just wait to re-do the assembly! ;)
thank you for making these videos. They are totally awesome.
Thank you for watching! :) Happy New Year!
Another great video. But I can't wait to see the longtail. So get back to work!!! Seriously, this is a fantastic series.
Thanks man! Work continues ;) But man has this build thrown me for a loop. I start out doing it one way and then change it later. This has been the story of this build so far. Regardless of where I'm at, I'll put a video out soon after the new year. Better to keep you guys up to date on the build. Have a Happy New Year!
I love boredom, boredom's my favorite. One suggestion about your thru bolt connections... Can you machine some sleeves for the bottom side to the required depth to prevent any deformation of the 80/20? you'd have to machine an appropriate amount on the bottom side of the 80/20 to do this. Also on the bottom head tube cone/locator... How about machining different size locators that are flat with a step in them for the different size tubes you use? Just spitballin here man.. Happy new year ;)
Hahaha great minds think alike! I also considered different size locators. The fastest and easiest fix would be the locators. Hey Happy New Year man!
I just found you a few days ago and subscribed immediately! I've watched a couple dozen of your videos and am in a position to say that you make a darn fine video. Great production; great music; and , as a bike nerd, great content! I could go on... -RA
haha thanks for subscribing! Good to know there are still folks out there interested in this stuff. Happy New Year!
Despite the problems you are having with your frame jig, it still is a kick ass setup, LOL. I build mini bikes from scratch and for the frame jig I use a flat piece of plywood with a line down the center. That's it, LOL. I'd love to just have a flat table that just doesn't warp. Maybe someday. Just subed, great vids.
Easy fix on your mounting the extruded piece put a sleeve spacer on the back side so it cant compress but it will tighten down. Later
Very nice! Yes this would work great!!
I realize I'm seven months late and you may fix this later but what if you just boxed the area around the bolt (that goes through the extrusions). As long as it hasn't flexed too far and it doesn't wrap under heat that could work.
FYI I have zero experience, but I'm really enjoying the channel!
Hi Steve,
Did you comment any of those parametric setup changes with the guys at Arctos Jigs?
And could make a video of the pivoting around the bottom bracket? Or at least give an insight on how to change that assembly?
Take a look at 44 Bikes version of the Arctos. Chris used a plate that extends down to the BB for the pivot point. This I think is the best option because it's a simple design but also very rigid.
www.44bikes.com/44-bikes-frame-jig-progress/
Thanks! I´ll have a look!
Awesome use of 3D animations! Is it 3DS Max? or Maya?
Its 3d Max. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video , which cad software you are using in this video
looks like I'm stickin' around to watch this.. hehehe
LOL!!
Yes!!!
:)
Hello Steve. What CAD program were you modeling the jig in?
Another awesome video! currently making my jig which is almost the same as yours, would it matter if i just shifter the bb mount up so it was inline with the main support and thus rotated centrally to the bb. and the headtube presumably could just be fixed in place by that point quite easily. how do you plan about doing them both?
I recommend keeping the BB pivot at center and roughly at the same drop I have mine (standard position below the spine). The reason for this is that its best for the central support of the jig (the spine) to be in the middle of it all (at the center of the bike being fixtured). You'll have less run out this way. Good luck!
ok i will try to work something out!
The jig plan you posted on P3D is it this version ?
The P3D plan is the current state of my jig. I haven't made any new mods to my jig yet, it still has the flaws I discuss in the video unfortunately. I do plan to update my jig this year though.
Why it's so important to make center of rotation of head tube in bottom? I thought it must been in center.
The bottom I think is the most reliable way to measure distances. And because it's the point that is measured on most Archtos Jigs, which is the father to my jig.
And afterwards you should start selling your jigs with your modifications. And I imagine you'll make quite a bit of money.