Hello I have a 4a032 2 engine. Does not run. I assume it’s a spark issue. If you know about the ignition system and how it works. Could you please do a video explaining the ignition system and any test you know how check. Like can you test for spark, like on a small engine say Briggs. How to check plugs. Coil. Thanks
Hi, sorry, I never saw this comment until now. Unfortunately, I'm not much of an expert on these engines, but I know there were two different ignition systems used in them over time. The original ignition used breaker points to induce a spark, and the later system used electronic trigger/switching. I think both shorted the high voltage to the engine body to shut off, so you may want to start by making sure it's not shorted somewhere by a worn or pinched wire. To check for spark, I'd probably just remove a plug and ground the body of the plug to the engine, then crank it and watch for a healthy blue spark to jump the gap. You should be able to see it in daylight, but might be easier at dusk or night time. Make sure you don't hold the plug...I've had a plug or wire in hand while someone accidentally cranked the engine, and it doesn't feel very good... :D With points, I've found they will oxidize and not conduct if left unused for long periods. They're supposed to be sealed and waterproof, but I'm sure that just slows down the deterioration, doesn't stop it. They're easy to replace, but may take a little old school skills to set up for correct gap and smooth running. The easier short-term trick is to gently polish the contact points to remove the oxide layer and restore conductivity (use a hair of coarse polish on a paper towel, then a clean paper towel to polish). If you're going to replace them anyway, use a very fine (like 2000 grit) sandpaper to scuff them. But be aware that scuffing them to an unpolished surface will restore conductivity for a short term, but significantly shorten the overall life by increasing micro-arc burns and pitting.
im still learning these engines as well but im pretty well schooled on the older tech (im 55 and have been working on older stuff for about 40 years). check for spark by holding plug about 1/2 inch from engine case (use something insulated to hold it.) check for spark. if it isnt bright and clear you dont have enough fire. on older engines points are the weak link .i will have to look at mine to get #s for replacement part but chances should be good that they share a part # with something more common. IMPORTANT: these engines use unique plugs and wires (plugs can be found but aint cheap) coil would be last point id check.
If you meant to use 2 cylinders as compressor/pump cylinders and two as power cylinders, I don't think it will work well. Assuming that you will find a way to route the intake for 2 cylinders to natural air and not the carb/fuel mix...unless you wan to build an explosive tank of fuel/air vapor... :D They're low compression generally, and that will be a problem for a few reasons; As a compressor cylinder, you might not be able to build and hold good pressure before finding blow-by problems. At 3600 rpm, you can probably ignore that, though. On the power cylinders, combustion contaminants and oil will likely blow past the rings into the crankcase, and then past the rings and into your compressor system until counteracting pressure is built. You also have a power-robbing compression stroke on the unused cylinders. If you could somehow double-up the cam lobes for those cylinders, or have a custom cam ground, that would be easy to solve, though. I think if you could get it to run smoothly and balanced on 2 cylinders (maybe front left, rear right, or both front or both rear), you lose a lot of power, but could probably still make enough to compress air. I'd do it to say I did it or for the challenge of engineering it, but if it's to find a cheap way to make a gasoline powered compressor, you'd probably end up achieving the objective better with a commercially purpose-built gas compressor.
@@robr2154 we have done it several times in the oilfields using ford 351s. with this setup isolating two cylinders from the intake would be simple as they are soft hoses from the carb. and the front 2 cylinders are on a common crank lobe i believe, should act as a 15 cid v2 only smoother ( thats the part im asking about) i know this engine uses 2 sets of points and oil contamination is easily remedied with a separator. i know the likelyhood of building over 60-80 psi is unlikely. mostly im looking for a cool project for this cool little engine. sadly they were out of service before my military duty so i dont know them as well as i could have. and front right/back left would unballance this and make it run like a true v2 (think harley idle)
@maddhatter3564 lol, you sure? You're literally saying that on a video of me running it. I've broken 1 of these down, but it's been at least 10 years and a bazillion different engines since, so I will not remember specific details. Yeah, the intake shouldn't be hard, but I don't think I said it would be, just that it needs to be done. As far as balancing cylinders, Harley engine is exactly what I was thinking, that it's inherently difficult to smooth out a V twin, which is basically what it would be turned into. I have no idea what the proper way to misfire this engine is. 😄😄 I say go for it, have a blast.
I was just thinking, and I wonder if you could put an npt air fitting with a check valve in the spark plug hole, and take the air that way, on the compression stroke, letting the exhaust and power stroke just waste. Originally, I figured you could hack the exhaust plumbing to take the air flow to storage, but the spark plug porthole means no other significant other mods needed.
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Hello I have a 4a032 2 engine. Does not run. I assume it’s a spark issue. If you know about the ignition system and how it works. Could you please do a video explaining the ignition system and any test you know how check. Like can you test for spark, like on a small engine say Briggs. How to check plugs. Coil. Thanks
Hi, sorry, I never saw this comment until now.
Unfortunately, I'm not much of an expert on these engines, but I know there were two different ignition systems used in them over time. The original ignition used breaker points to induce a spark, and the later system used electronic trigger/switching. I think both shorted the high voltage to the engine body to shut off, so you may want to start by making sure it's not shorted somewhere by a worn or pinched wire.
To check for spark, I'd probably just remove a plug and ground the body of the plug to the engine, then crank it and watch for a healthy blue spark to jump the gap. You should be able to see it in daylight, but might be easier at dusk or night time. Make sure you don't hold the plug...I've had a plug or wire in hand while someone accidentally cranked the engine, and it doesn't feel very good... :D
With points, I've found they will oxidize and not conduct if left unused for long periods. They're supposed to be sealed and waterproof, but I'm sure that just slows down the deterioration, doesn't stop it. They're easy to replace, but may take a little old school skills to set up for correct gap and smooth running. The easier short-term trick is to gently polish the contact points to remove the oxide layer and restore conductivity (use a hair of coarse polish on a paper towel, then a clean paper towel to polish). If you're going to replace them anyway, use a very fine (like 2000 grit) sandpaper to scuff them. But be aware that scuffing them to an unpolished surface will restore conductivity for a short term, but significantly shorten the overall life by increasing micro-arc burns and pitting.
im still learning these engines as well but im pretty well schooled on the older tech (im 55 and have been working on older stuff for about 40 years). check for spark by holding plug about 1/2 inch from engine case (use something insulated to hold it.) check for spark. if it isnt bright and clear you dont have enough fire. on older engines points are the weak link .i will have to look at mine to get #s for replacement part but chances should be good that they share a part # with something more common. IMPORTANT: these engines use unique plugs and wires (plugs can be found but aint cheap) coil would be last point id check.
@@robr2154 sorry i didnt see your answer b4 i made mine. you make all good points. only point i added was about the special plugs and wires.
does anyone have any knowlege if these jewels can run on 2 cylinders? i had an interesting idea of making mine an integrated air compressor
If you meant to use 2 cylinders as compressor/pump cylinders and two as power cylinders, I don't think it will work well. Assuming that you will find a way to route the intake for 2 cylinders to natural air and not the carb/fuel mix...unless you wan to build an explosive tank of fuel/air vapor... :D
They're low compression generally, and that will be a problem for a few reasons; As a compressor cylinder, you might not be able to build and hold good pressure before finding blow-by problems. At 3600 rpm, you can probably ignore that, though. On the power cylinders, combustion contaminants and oil will likely blow past the rings into the crankcase, and then past the rings and into your compressor system until counteracting pressure is built.
You also have a power-robbing compression stroke on the unused cylinders. If you could somehow double-up the cam lobes for those cylinders, or have a custom cam ground, that would be easy to solve, though.
I think if you could get it to run smoothly and balanced on 2 cylinders (maybe front left, rear right, or both front or both rear), you lose a lot of power, but could probably still make enough to compress air. I'd do it to say I did it or for the challenge of engineering it, but if it's to find a cheap way to make a gasoline powered compressor, you'd probably end up achieving the objective better with a commercially purpose-built gas compressor.
@@robr2154 we have done it several times in the oilfields using ford 351s. with this setup isolating two cylinders from the intake would be simple as they are soft hoses from the carb. and the front 2 cylinders are on a common crank lobe i believe, should act as a 15 cid v2 only smoother ( thats the part im asking about) i know this engine uses 2 sets of points and oil contamination is easily remedied with a separator. i know the likelyhood of building over 60-80 psi is unlikely. mostly im looking for a cool project for this cool little engine. sadly they were out of service before my military duty so i dont know them as well as i could have. and front right/back left would unballance this and make it run like a true v2 (think harley idle)
@@robr2154 no offense but from your answer it seems youve never actually seen a 4a032 close up
@maddhatter3564 lol, you sure? You're literally saying that on a video of me running it. I've broken 1 of these down, but it's been at least 10 years and a bazillion different engines since, so I will not remember specific details. Yeah, the intake shouldn't be hard, but I don't think I said it would be, just that it needs to be done. As far as balancing cylinders, Harley engine is exactly what I was thinking, that it's inherently difficult to smooth out a V twin, which is basically what it would be turned into. I have no idea what the proper way to misfire this engine is. 😄😄
I say go for it, have a blast.
I was just thinking, and I wonder if you could put an npt air fitting with a check valve in the spark plug hole, and take the air that way, on the compression stroke, letting the exhaust and power stroke just waste. Originally, I figured you could hack the exhaust plumbing to take the air flow to storage, but the spark plug porthole means no other significant other mods needed.