Wicked video. Very helpful. I’m currently doing a full top conversion on my 76 K5 and having all these measurements will save me a ton of guess work. Cheers
Crank Addict, I have a ‘75 I’m working on.. I replaced rockers, floors, rear quarters, fenders. The huge mistake I made was allowing the whole firewall to ‘lean’ toward the rear without knowing such that my top would no longer fit. I’ve had to cut back through the rockers and pull the firewall toward the front with a come-a-long. That being said, I’m worried about it moving back over time with the weight of the doors when the top is off… thoughts about the structure holding over time?
Avoid rubber body mounts and go polyurethane. Solid mounts would be best if this is going to be toy. The truck gets its strength from the frame. The better you can join the body to the frame, the more solid it will be. I made the same mistake but was able to correct it in time. Next time I will solid mount the body to the frame before any cutting.
@@John2250Nt Make sure your rear lower support has all the washers to make it stiff. If it is missing the washers then the bracket will flex and the window will pop out of channel. Happened to me, too.
Very possible for every door to be slightly different. It's my understanding that from the factory, they never made this door they just cut down the pickup door with a bandsaw so there's not really a science to it.
Thanks for the video. I’m currently restoring a ‘74. Had to buy after market doors. Your video will help! 👍🏻
Wicked video. Very helpful. I’m currently doing a full top conversion on my 76 K5 and having all these measurements will save me a ton of guess work. Cheers
check out my latest for more info.
You the Man Great Job
Bought different doors for my 73 today now to chop them
Crank Addict, I have a ‘75 I’m working on.. I replaced rockers, floors, rear quarters, fenders. The huge mistake I made was allowing the whole firewall to ‘lean’ toward the rear without knowing such that my top would no longer fit. I’ve had to cut back through the rockers and pull the firewall toward the front with a come-a-long. That being said, I’m worried about it moving back over time with the weight of the doors when the top is off… thoughts about the structure holding over time?
Avoid rubber body mounts and go polyurethane. Solid mounts would be best if this is going to be toy. The truck gets its strength from the frame. The better you can join the body to the frame, the more solid it will be. I made the same mistake but was able to correct it in time. Next time I will solid mount the body to the frame before any cutting.
Can you make a video on how you do the door glass and run channels ?
It will be coming along in time. Give me another month or two.
@@CrankAddict how’d you make out with the door glass and run channels ?
@@CrankAddict hey just curious how you did the door glass, my windows come out of the channel every time I roll them down
@@John2250Nt Make sure your rear lower support has all the washers to make it stiff. If it is missing the washers then the bracket will flex and the window will pop out of channel. Happened to me, too.
@@CrankAddict okay awesome I’ll take a look at that
We’re you located?
Interestingly the factory cuts on the junkyard donor truck i got my top and windshield frame from are clearly different from one side to the other.
That's a conundrum. Are you using the junkyard doors as is?
@@CrankAddictno, they're rotten beyond repair..
Very possible for every door to be slightly different. It's my understanding that from the factory, they never made this door they just cut down the pickup door with a bandsaw so there's not really a science to it.
@@tysonwheeler3053 You are correct. It is similar to the way Hurst cut holes in the roof for the t-top trans ams.