Mr.Demco has a dam good reason for putting those washers in there and it was not to be cheap. I mean look at his work and you can tell he takes a lot of pride in his work. He is not gonna cheap out on something that important.
What the Teflon washers do is they do not damage/rub off blade material. If you take an aged folder apart,steel ball bearings and phosphor bronze washers will create a track where the bearings/washers dig into the blade and handle. On a knife that requires tight tolerances this can create blade play overtime. I'd rather just replace the washers than to resurface or change the whole blade..And we all know contacting the creator of these signature designer knives to get a hold of a new blade is very easy lol.
CSLFiero Me too, but for a different reason: i would love to see cold steel have to admit that one of their own knives has a "bad lock" because according to them any knife without the triad lock is weak and fragile.
Very helpful video. Well done and simple design. Some have described this as a reversed Ti-lock. Maybe. The big difference is that the Ti-lock looks cool but creates too many places for stuff to get caught at the top of the blade. This lock gets all the lock hardware out of the way.
In the past, he's used a product called Frog Lube in a paste form to coat steel liners to prevent rust. Just rub it on and wipe off the excess. I've seen some comments that it's better to do that after hearing the steel, but I can't say how beneficial that would be. As far as protecting your blades, simple mineral oil is usually fine. It's the same process of rubbing on and wiping off. There are probably better systems, but mineral oil is food safe. Check out his video on knife disassembly tools and you'll find more details.
@@justhereforgear3441 Thank you very much for the quick and straight forward response. I recently got some frog lube (liquid and paste form) as well as some nanolube. I have been wondering whether or not the paste absolutely required heating (whether it be prior to application or post application), and if so, what level of heating was necessary.
First of all, love your vids. Thanks for all the info you provide. I really like the torx driver you are using in this vid. Can you tell me what it is? My apologies if you've covered it in another video or mentioned it in this one!
I REALLY like how strong the tang of the blade appears, with the pivot hole being far away from the outskirts of the tang. Very strong design. I love the washer size as well. If only it was phosphor bronze.
nick,any plans of reviewing the new pivot lube knifepivotlube.com..i recieved the 2 pack yesterday and im liking it so far..slicey dicey,stassa23 and zelrick all like it
Seriously with the washers stuff man. Complain about after you have had issues with a well made Knife. Not a lionsteel or boker. Midtech makers know what they are doing.
Matthew Forrest amen! Damn it gets old hearing “people” like this talk them down when they don’t know what they’re talking about. I have a Jarosz Pulsar with plastic washers that is just as smooth and solid as my Zero Tolerances!
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Mr.Demco has a dam good reason for putting those washers in there and it was not to be cheap. I mean look at his work and you can tell he takes a lot of pride in his work. He is not gonna cheap out on something that important.
What the Teflon washers do is they do not damage/rub off blade material. If you take an aged folder apart,steel ball bearings and phosphor bronze washers will create a track where the bearings/washers dig into the blade and handle. On a knife that requires tight tolerances this can create blade play overtime. I'd rather just replace the washers than to resurface or change the whole blade..And we all know contacting the creator of these signature designer knives to get a hold of a new blade is very easy lol.
Good comment
Спасибо. Наконец-то я понял как устроен фиксатор замка! Рекомендую вам допилить накладки и поставить недостающий шпынек.
I've been wanting to see the insides of one of these ever since I first saw one. Cool stuff.
I hope cs picks up this design. I'd love to see thinner versions.
CSLFiero Me too, but for a different reason: i would love to see cold steel have to admit that one of their own knives has a "bad lock" because according to them any knife without the triad lock is weak and fragile.
@@xDarkPrototypex they are both made by demko so...lol
Very helpful video. Well done and simple design. Some have described this as a reversed Ti-lock. Maybe. The big difference is that the Ti-lock looks cool but creates too many places for stuff to get caught at the top of the blade. This lock gets all the lock hardware out of the way.
Maybe you could put "scorpion lock" in the title in some form so people who search for "scorpion lock dissasembly" can find your video
Still waiting for knife banter like a kid on christmas eve
Just seen one of these for sale at Arizona custom knifes with titanium anodized blue for 925$ WOW!!.
A very interesting complex lock
Awesome review!!😄👍
“c’mon just ease it in there” - what she said
Awesome. I love tour videos. Can you please give me link of where can I get the stick and tools. thank you very much
mars GIA he has a video sled disassembly tools where he lays out all the stuff he uses to disassemble his knives.
Hey Nick, if you were to worry about corrosion on the inlays or the blade itself; what would you use, and how would you use it to protect the metals?
In the past, he's used a product called Frog Lube in a paste form to coat steel liners to prevent rust. Just rub it on and wipe off the excess. I've seen some comments that it's better to do that after hearing the steel, but I can't say how beneficial that would be.
As far as protecting your blades, simple mineral oil is usually fine. It's the same process of rubbing on and wiping off. There are probably better systems, but mineral oil is food safe. Check out his video on knife disassembly tools and you'll find more details.
@@justhereforgear3441 Thank you very much for the quick and straight forward response. I recently got some frog lube (liquid and paste form) as well as some nanolube. I have been wondering whether or not the paste absolutely required heating (whether it be prior to application or post application), and if so, what level of heating was necessary.
My pivot was t10...
NICK! What's the size and thickness on those nylon washers? Going to throw PB in mine. Thanks.
First of all, love your vids. Thanks for all the info you provide. I really like the torx driver you are using in this vid. Can you tell me what it is? My apologies if you've covered it in another video or mentioned it in this one!
Check my knife disassembly toolkit video
I REALLY like how strong the tang of the blade appears, with the pivot hole being far away from the outskirts of the tang. Very strong design. I love the washer size as well. If only it was phosphor bronze.
Round peg square hole
Guess the washers equate to haveing a Porsche an putting walmart tires on it! Works but still.
nick,any plans of reviewing the new pivot lube knifepivotlube.com..i recieved the 2 pack yesterday and im liking it so far..slicey dicey,stassa23 and zelrick all like it
I spy with my little eye, an Omega Seamaster?
Yaaaaaay
Seriously with the washers stuff man. Complain about after you have had issues with a well made Knife. Not a lionsteel or boker. Midtech makers know what they are doing.
Matthew Forrest amen! Damn it gets old hearing “people” like this talk them down when they don’t know what they’re talking about. I have a Jarosz Pulsar with plastic washers that is just as smooth and solid as my Zero Tolerances!
A great large knife, for the 750.00 price PB washers please.
Bryan Larsgaard you’re lacking knowledge in washer mechanics like most people who complain about teflon.
It's not tricky, you are just too lazy to take the lock bar off. Once you've done that, the blade goes in easily.
not an office knife