Another one for the drive home; give a good 15 or 30 minutes driving with no music to listen for unusual rattles, squeaks or whatever. You can sometimes hear a problem before anything starts to vibrate or shimmy.
One thing we do at the end of the trail after airing up, we all take a walk around all the rigs before we mount up and hit the road. We have caught thing on one another's rigs from time to time because we are so familiar with our own rigs we have missed something, usually little things, but if not taken care of could be a big thing down the highway. I enjoy your videos and seeing the land downunder.
I remember when I watched your videos to see how to off-road a year ago. Never drove a off-road capable thing other than quads and stuff but after joining a club, everything you've said is now a habit. Thanks for the vids
check for grass on top of your muffler and exhaust pipes. the grass or small twigs can catch fire easily with the heat and airflow from highway driving.
I've been binge watching your content for the last couple days. I have an 07 PJ Ford Ranger and I'm yet to take it off road, but these tips and advice will help a ton when I do
After touring on tracks lift the bonnet and check there as well coolant levels etc... Also check wheel nuts especially the left hand side, as you are driving forward the wheel nuts are turning in the undo direction, heavy corregated tracks vibration etc
I have found that you can bind up the drive train even when off road. Reversing about ten feet will usually permit you to disengage 4WD if it won't do so normally. Also, My dad sold a a Chevy Suburban to a family quite a few years ago. They ruined the transmission by not taking it out of 4WD once they hit the pavement. It was an expensive lesson.
One thing that should be added: CHECK YOUR BRAKES. Many times you will pick up small rocks & stones. They can get lodged between the pads & the rotors. Also, CHECK YOUR ROTORS FOR DAMAGE. I cracked a front rotor on my old 1979 Blazer K-10 many years ago. I now carry line caps and plugs for my Rubicon.
Hey Ronny, your section on disengaging 4wd is super useful. A simple useful tip for unbinding transmission wind up is to jack a wheel up. Normally jacking a front wheel off the ground will allow the transfer case to disengage it's locked diff. Or reversing can as well, but generally takes longer. This is a common problem with older Selectrac equipped Jeep models (Like my Jeep Cherokee XJ). Lots of trial an error have lead me to this learning curve. Awesome video though Ronny, as always! Keep up the great work mate.
one thing you missed is HEAT is a tyres worst enemy at lower pressures the heat will build up a lot more heat because of flex in the side wall at higher speeds The weakest point of the trye is the side wall bubbles in the side wall is normally separation of the plys in the tyer and the most common way this happens is driving at speed with a under inflation on your tyers
awesome video mate. I always check wheel nuts and the battery bracket as find that always wobbles loose on corrugations especially. plus with a excursion i will check and reload up the first aid kit so its always stocked up
I carry a spray bottle with soapy water. and 2nd one with plain water, they are good for finding air leaks on tire valves, flushing valve area before airing up/down, washing head/tail lights, fuel filler area before opening, and any other area that dirt may get into when opened. Winter it's washing anti-freeze.
There are valve core removers made for bicycles too. I find those easier to use because they're shaped more like mini screwdrivers. The one you're using gives better leverage, but valve cores shouldn't be so tight that you need a wrench anyway.
Ronny, great tips.We drive a lot on rocky roads. To protect our valve stems against stones etc. we weld a steel ring big enough for the air valve around the valve stem on our steel wheels. I hope you can use the tip.
Ronny, if you screw in a spare rubber valve stem into the back of your valve core removal tool, it forms an extension handle which makes it easier to use. Plus it's good to carry a spare stem.
Sometimes the transfer case shifter gets stuck in the 4WD position and won't go into the 2WD position because of tension in the driveline between the front and rear axles (wind up). Reversing and turning can "unwind" the driveline and allow the car to go back into 2WD.
Always check around you exhaust and engine bay for plants and shrubs. Got pulled over by a cop after off roading. It wasn't fun trying to explain what that "Burning plant" smell coming from my truck. Cop was a citiot and a bit thick. Still, something to check for next time.
Tip for you on the valve core tool Ronny, put a valve stem into the die side of the tool. It makes for a nice little handle when removing and installing valve cores and it keeps a spare stem at hand.
thanks again ronny, your dedication to safety certainty is admirable. ill be going to chuck a bunch of valve keys in my tire repair kit now mate! and be keeping the dodgy ones seperate.
If you have manual free wheel hubs , don't forget to unlock them when you go back on the road . I once lent my 4wd to a mate who didn't unlock the hubs when he got off the beach, next time I went fishing I turned the hubs when I got to the beach and didn't notice they were already locked, so I inadvertently unlocked them , and got stuck in the first 5 meters !!!
Duncan Macready lol i went offroading with my freind in his pajero first 2 metres he got bogged i drove right past him laughing and then i pulled him out it was funny
Thanks Ronny, great video again. With the tire section, agree with your first reason, disagree with the second due to weight rating. I would say you don't want heat build in up in the tire at high speeds which causes it to fail as less pressure has more friction - but doesn't change from your recommended actual action - Reinflate. Cheers ...
+prana8 agreed but your weight carrying ability is reduced as the air pressure is what carries the weight, the tyres is just there to hold the air. But yes I agree heat is the biggest killer of tyres and I should have mentioned that in the video too. Doing one just on tyres soon and that will be part of it 👍
Hey Ronny, thanks. The mass carried / Pressure = contact area , so that more mass, more contact area, and more pressure, less contact area. Less contact area, less heat build up, but less friction and compliance, but you already know all this .... look fwd to your next vid :)
nice vid again :) always enjoy watching, I missed checking your brakes before you get up to (highway) speeds, when off road, I almost always use engine braking and hardly use my brake pedal, I've been surprised a couple of times by my brake pedal going down way further then normal after being offroad, can be a nasty surprise :P
One time after I went, I found my mud flaps filled with mud (mine are factory mud flaps, so they're hollow because they're made to look nice). I didn't need a stick the get the mud off though because mine are rubber and flexible. I just started tapping my mud flaps with my foot until the all the mud fell off. I'll never underestimate the value of mud flaps after that. I didn't go through a lot of mud, but pretty much all of what my car picked up was just on the mud flaps, so they kept the rest of my car pretty clean.
Plan a route that ends at a clean flowing river It is good way to get the mud off I am lucky to have a river with a ford near by going though a few times backwards and forwards gets a lot off
Good channel mate ! Just wanted to add a bit about driving in high speeds on low pressure, the when tire flex it heats up, and at low speeds it doesn't get too hot, but if you run on the highway with low pressure the tire cannot release all the heat it builds up and end up destroying your tire from inside out. Cheers from California
Good reminder. I've gotten lazy driving through Mexico/Central America. It's tough to care about the mud on the truck when your probably going to be driving through it again tomorrow:)
Good tips Ronny, the only thing I would do differently is use a an engineers hammer (ball pein) to hammer out my steel rim, better results thanks to the rounded head.
On the question of allowable tyre load vs inflation pressure there are different formulae for 'P' (passenger) and 'LT' (light truck tyres). The TRA (Tire and Rim Association) publish load vs inflation pressure data for LT tyres based on the formula: Allowable Load = Max Load * (Inflation Pressure / Max Pressure)^0.7 where Max Load and Max Pressure are as marked on the sidewall. The formula for 'P' tyres is the same except the index is 0.9 in place of 0.7 for 'LT' tyres. The lower index for 'LT' tyres provides an increase of the allowable load because an inflation pressure lower than the maximum reduces the stress in the carcase of the tyre.
(More for buying a second hand vehicle tip) Also check that all your nuts arnt stripped, had a issue that the previous owner had stripped 50% of the nuts and out in the bush it aint fun trying to get them loose.
Hey Ronny love all of the videos you create and all of the advice videos. I was in a agreement with a mate of mine between tire width and his opinion is that skinnier tires are the way to go but my opinion is that a wider tire will be quote on quote better in the sand, mud, rocks and all the other terrains, and I we can not agree on what is the better way to go, so I was hoping that you might be able to make a video or if you have put the link in a comment replying to me. Thanks a lot if you can do so keep up the good work.
Thanks Ronny - really great advice/tips. Didn’t know you could get replacement valve stems - saves taking the tyre off to replace the whole stem 🙄😱. I’ll look out for them and the tool to add to my kit. 👍. Can you also use the air compressor as a blower to (for example) blow out dust etc from the radiator, or is it not advisable for any reason?
Now I'm kind of okay with having a full time transfer case, I just find having a 2WD option would be good on gas. Kind of hard now to find a case with a part time and full time option
I see rust is very common in Australia. Do you guys use something like a coating of Fluid Film to keep the corrosion at bay? It helps with washing mud off too I've noticed.
Haha, well a lanolin-based spray like Fluid Film or Inox has a few more pluses than WD40. I do carry a can of each on my trips though. WD certainly taste better when you get a mouthful in a strong wind.
Listen guys and girls, Inox make many products for rust and corrosion protection. Whilst Inox is superior to WD40, they also have specific products like MX4 which is a sticky thick anti-rust (oxygen removing) H Duty coating for general rust proofing jobs on cars and 4wd's. The regular spray can of Inox is amazing and multi-talented however there is specific products in the Inox line-up that do what they are made for. And Inox grease is 1st class too. The range of Inox products are world class.
Hi Ronny I have a 06 Navara d40 and I am just starting into 4wheeling trips can you make a video what you check before you go on the track e what kind of tools you Carry with you. Greatings from belgium
Hi Ronny, Thanks for sharing these wonderful videos with us. Currently I own a 76 series LC with 2 inches of OME lift and considering to put a pair of superior engineering's 'U-Bolt Plate High Clearance'. None of my off-roading buddies could give me a first hand experience feedback. On this video, at 18:43, I saw Your mate got one. I know you're a busy bloke, but when you get a chance, would you be able to let me know what he thinks of them? I'm sick and tired of getting caught up on rocks. Please help a brother out haha. Cheers.
If you have manual locking hubs you can leave them locked while jumping on the road for a few kilometers/miles. I would recommend using the tire pressure that the vehicle requires. It should be in the door jam.
+Ken MacMillan yes you can so long as 4x4 is disengaged it's fine. All it's do is stir the diff oil around and is a good thing to do if you don't off-road often as it'll lubricate the diff center.
Ronny, could you make a video on Winch brands and what you use maybe? it would be super useful for people like me who want to buy a winch but can't decide what to buy, I don't want to be cheap and buy a smittybilt that could fail but also can't afford a warn, also with wire and synthetic rope Thanks!
the problem with the toyota 4x4 you run is no centre diff even going in a straight line you will get wind up this is because the rear tyres get more worn than the front when in 2 wheel drive making the rear wheels turn faster in a straight line the best way to get out of 4x4 when the drive when it is tight and under strain Pull over put some force on the gear stick towards 2 wheel drive turn the steering to full lock drive back and forward gently 1 or 2 feet don't force the car and wind up the shafts when the strain is off it will pop to 2 wheel drive
Jonathan Willis Don't bet on that. My parents had a 96 Discovery, were touring on the Nullarbor Plain, when 500k out from Perth the central locking & power window solenoids gave up. Had to turn around and go back to Perth to where the vehicle had just been serviced. Had to wait 3 days for parts to be sent from Adelaide.
Most tire manufacturers have a "Load Index Table" available for their tires. It will show the load carrying capacity at different pressures. This is quite handy for determining your lowest safe pressure for high speed use (high speed gravel, highway, etc) Heres an example :) Jump down to page 20 for the LT sizes. Keep in mind this information will change between manufacturers toyotires-1524598101.netdna-ssl.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf
Ronny, in your AWD vs 4WD video, it's probably worth noting that some vehicles like modern Jeeps, have "part-time 4wd" in 4wd high. This means we can use 4wd high on the highway with no problems. Which is really nice for driving in the heavy rain on the highway, by the way. That same is NOT true for 4wd low though. READ THE MANUAL before assuming anything though!
Hey Ronny, just wondering where the modified episode of that hilux you showed in the video? cant seem to find it and it looks like you were doing Q&A, cheers
Hey Ronny Are the grabbers any good in clay type of mud and up greasy hill climbs ? I’m using Bridgestone mt at the moment great tyre Another thing I’m dodge at wiring up lights like reverse spotties and under car rock lights and vids on that mate cheers
Technically, a part-time 4x4 in 4wd does not split the power 50-50 front and back. It forces both driveshafts to rotate at the same speed and the power is distributed so that the wheels with the most traction get the most power. Driving around a curve, the front wheels travel further than the rears, but when the transfer case forces them to turn at the same speed, the transmission is applying a degree of braking to the front wheels. If the transfer case had an open diff, such as found in some full-time 4x4, then the power is distributed equally, front to rear. Some full-time 4x4 transfer cases have torque biassing diffs typically 60% rear and 40% front, but that is getting off the point. You can see the principles easier by looking at left and right wheels on the same axle. With the diff open power is distributed equally to both wheels. If one has no traction, both wheels get zero (equal) power. If you lock the diff so both half shafts are forced to rotate at the same speed, one wheel may have no power, if it is in the air, and the other receives 100% of the power at the axle. This is just a moot point, it doesn't affect the reasons for disengaging 4wd on sealed roads.
That's exactly backwards. If you have part time 4wd, engaging it will split the power directly in half and sends 50% to the front and 50% to the rear. A center differential sends power down the path of least resistance just like an open differential. If you have a center differential that is lockable like some land rovers then you want to make sure that it is unlocked on pavement.
Sorry Ken, you are the one that has it backwards. True an open centre diff sends power to the path of least resistance, but the power is equal to both sides, i.e. if, because of low traction, only 1 kW goes to the side with less resistance, then only 1 kW can be sent to the side with greater resistance. With your Land Rover example, when the centre diff is locked, the front and rear driveshafts turn at the same speed, but the distribution of power, front to rear is not necessarily equal. If the front wheels loose traction then most of the power is distributed to the rear wheels and it won't be equal front to rear.
Ken, I just did a quick search to find something that might explain this phenomenon better than I can. While I did not come up with anything great, note there is nothing to support your argument, I did find the following quote: In open differential the distribution is fixed at 50-50. Both the wheels get the same amount of torque. Even when the two wheels are rotating at different speed, their average speed is always the same, equal to the speed of crown gear. In locked differential however, the differential gears are locked together in certain cases i.e. when traction available to both the wheels differs drastically. This makes differential behave as a solid axle, forcing both the wheels to rotate at the same speed. As traction available to the wheels is different and yet the wheels are rotating at same speeds, the torque distribution is no more equal to 50-50. This feature makes the locking differentials desirable in rough terrains, where half the time one of the wheels is in air or mud or water. When one of the wheels is in air, open differential will provide zero torque to both the wheels whereas locked differential will provide more torque to the wheel which is on the ground. End quote, from here www.quora.com/Transmission-mechanics-In-an-open-differential-an-engine-sends-the-same-amount-of-torque-to-both-the-wheels-The-same-amount-of-torque-would-mean-same-speed-How-does-this-differ-from-the-locking-differential
Quora just proved me right. "When one of the wheels is in air, open differential will provide zero torque to both the wheels whereas locked differential will provide more torque to the wheel which is on the ground". Put the front or rear half of a vehicle with a center diff on ice and all of the torque goes to the tires on the ice and it goes nowhere. Lock the center diff and the driveshafts will spin as one unit sending 50% of the torque to the tires with traction and the vehicle will pull away. When you do a burnout with an open diff you get the infamous one wheel peel, same thing. Thanks for that. With a part time 4wd you always split the torque 50/50 when you have 4wd engaged because both driveshafts are locked together like one unit. There's no differential action from front to rear and you will break something. What did you claim? John Do: " Technically, a part-time 4x4 in 4wd does not split the power 50-50 front and back. It forces both driveshafts to rotate at the same speed and the power is distributed so that the wheels with the most traction get the most power". You claimed that a part time 4wd acts like a center diff and that is the opposite of what happens.
Sorry Ken you are not comprehending what was written. It proved you were wrong. For example; "When one of the wheels is in air, open differential will provide zero torque to both the wheels whereas locked differential will provide more torque to the wheel which is on the ground". If the torque is zero to both sides, then it is equal on both sides and the distribution is therefore 50-50. When the locked diff provides more torque to the wheel on the ground then the torque is NOT equal to both sides, is NOT 50-50, but closer to 100-0. Bye, over and out.
Another one for the drive home; give a good 15 or 30 minutes driving with no music to listen for unusual rattles, squeaks or whatever. You can sometimes hear a problem before anything starts to vibrate or shimmy.
best explanation on dangers of too low a tire pressure I've heard.
One thing we do at the end of the trail after airing up, we all take a walk around all the rigs before we mount up and hit the road. We have caught thing on one another's rigs from time to time because we are so familiar with our own rigs we have missed something, usually little things, but if not taken care of could be a big thing down the highway.
I enjoy your videos and seeing the land downunder.
I remember when I watched your videos to see how to off-road a year ago. Never drove a off-road capable thing other than quads and stuff but after joining a club, everything you've said is now a habit. Thanks for the vids
check for grass on top of your muffler and exhaust pipes. the grass or small twigs can catch fire easily with the heat and airflow from highway driving.
Nice one Ronny
+4xOverland thanks mate
I've been binge watching your content for the last couple days. I have an 07 PJ Ford Ranger and I'm yet to take it off road, but these tips and advice will help a ton when I do
New 4x4 owner here too. Good luck with it mate
This should be essential offroading skill class.
hey ronny i just picked up a 93 cherokee xj for 650usd thanks for being a great offroading tip source
After touring on tracks lift the bonnet and check there as well coolant levels etc...
Also check wheel nuts especially the left hand side, as you are driving forward the wheel nuts are turning in the undo direction, heavy corregated tracks vibration etc
I have found that you can bind up the drive train even when off road. Reversing about ten feet will usually permit you to disengage 4WD if it won't do so normally.
Also, My dad sold a a Chevy Suburban to a family quite a few years ago. They ruined the transmission by not taking it out of 4WD once they hit the pavement. It was an expensive lesson.
Very nicely done. Easy to understand and great for the beginner and good reminders for the advanced 4wheeler. Stay safe on the trails mate.
One thing that should be added: CHECK YOUR BRAKES.
Many times you will pick up small rocks & stones. They can get lodged between the pads & the rotors.
Also, CHECK YOUR ROTORS FOR DAMAGE.
I cracked a front rotor on my old 1979 Blazer K-10 many years ago. I now carry line caps and plugs for my Rubicon.
Hey Ronny, your section on disengaging 4wd is super useful. A simple useful tip for unbinding transmission wind up is to jack a wheel up. Normally jacking a front wheel off the ground will allow the transfer case to disengage it's locked diff. Or reversing can as well, but generally takes longer.
This is a common problem with older Selectrac equipped Jeep models (Like my Jeep Cherokee XJ). Lots of trial an error have lead me to this learning curve.
Awesome video though Ronny, as always! Keep up the great work mate.
+Gaz Kelley yeah I had that tip in my first edit but didn't want people to hurt them selves 😉 it is a good way to fix the problem but 👍
That's a fair comment Ronny Dahl. But there'll be a few people with hurt wallets if they start blowing drive train components. 😂 👍
Great info, all the little things that never get covered
These videos are getting me through the corona virus. Keep it up Ronny, love your content mate!
one thing you missed is HEAT is a tyres worst enemy at lower pressures the heat will build up a lot more heat because of flex in the side wall at higher speeds
The weakest point of the trye is the side wall bubbles in the side wall is normally separation of the plys in the tyer and the most common way this happens is driving at speed with a under inflation on your tyers
awesome video mate. I always check wheel nuts and the battery bracket as find that always wobbles loose on corrugations especially. plus with a excursion i will check and reload up the first aid kit so its always stocked up
I carry a spray bottle with soapy water. and 2nd one with plain water, they are good for finding air leaks on tire valves, flushing valve area before airing up/down, washing head/tail lights, fuel filler area before opening, and any other area that dirt may get into when opened. Winter it's washing anti-freeze.
+Darren Renaud that's a good idea
Excellent video Ronny. Good tips for old and new bush bashers. Just spent 4 days out in Dargo high country. Awesome mate. ATB Moose in Vic.
There are valve core removers made for bicycles too. I find those easier to use because they're shaped more like mini screwdrivers. The one you're using gives better leverage, but valve cores shouldn't be so tight that you need a wrench anyway.
Great video Ronny. You covered everything I do after a off road trip. got nothing to add.
Ronny, great tips.We drive a lot on rocky roads. To protect our valve stems against stones etc. we weld a steel ring big enough for the air valve around the valve stem on our steel wheels. I hope you can use the tip.
Baby wipes are a great idea. Looks like I'll be investing I. That plus cleaning mud away before getting on the highway
Matt Seymour you know in australia its illegal if you drag lots of mud onto the road
Ronny, if you screw in a spare rubber valve stem into the back of your valve core removal tool, it forms an extension handle which makes it easier to use. Plus it's good to carry a spare stem.
top tip if stuck in 4x4, reverse in an arc on a loose surface to reduce the transmission wind up
Can you elaborate on this? A bit confused
Sometimes the transfer case shifter gets stuck in the 4WD position and won't go into the 2WD position because of tension in the driveline between the front and rear axles (wind up). Reversing and turning can "unwind" the driveline and allow the car to go back into 2WD.
Ah ok I see clearly now, thanks guys.
as JP says you can wind up the transmission so the half shafts end up like a torsion bars with a fair bit of energy built up into them
Good tips Ronny. Can't really think of any other important ones to check or do before leaving.
Always check around you exhaust and engine bay for plants and shrubs. Got pulled over by a cop after off roading. It wasn't fun trying to explain what that "Burning plant" smell coming from my truck. Cop was a citiot and a bit thick. Still, something to check for next time.
Tip for you on the valve core tool Ronny, put a valve stem into the die side of the tool. It makes for a nice little handle when removing and installing valve cores and it keeps a spare stem at hand.
thanks again ronny, your dedication to safety certainty is admirable. ill be going to chuck a bunch of valve keys in my tire repair kit now mate!
and be keeping the dodgy ones seperate.
Skinny split rims are the way to go and it's the only way of getting truly tough puncture resistant tyres such as MRF 14-16 ply rags.
Thanks for the Tips mate, really appreciate it all.
Subscribed 🤙🏽
If you have manual free wheel hubs , don't forget to unlock them when you go back on the road . I once lent my 4wd to a mate who didn't unlock the hubs when he got off the beach, next time I went fishing I turned the hubs when I got to the beach and didn't notice they were already locked, so I inadvertently unlocked them , and got stuck in the first 5 meters !!!
Duncan Macready lol i went offroading with my freind in his pajero first 2 metres he got bogged i drove right past him laughing and then i pulled him out it was funny
Thanks Ronny, great video again. With the tire section, agree with your first reason, disagree with the second due to weight rating. I would say you don't want heat build in up in the tire at high speeds which causes it to fail as less pressure has more friction - but doesn't change from your recommended actual action - Reinflate. Cheers ...
+prana8 agreed but your weight carrying ability is reduced as the air pressure is what carries the weight, the tyres is just there to hold the air. But yes I agree heat is the biggest killer of tyres and I should have mentioned that in the video too. Doing one just on tyres soon and that will be part of it 👍
Hey Ronny, thanks. The mass carried / Pressure = contact area , so that more mass, more contact area, and more pressure, less contact area. Less contact area, less heat build up, but less friction and compliance, but you already know all this .... look fwd to your next vid :)
nice vid again :) always enjoy watching, I missed checking your brakes before you get up to (highway) speeds, when off road, I almost always use engine braking and hardly use my brake pedal, I've been surprised a couple of times by my brake pedal going down way further then normal after being offroad, can be a nasty surprise :P
One time after I went, I found my mud flaps filled with mud (mine are factory mud flaps, so they're hollow because they're made to look nice). I didn't need a stick the get the mud off though because mine are rubber and flexible. I just started tapping my mud flaps with my foot until the all the mud fell off.
I'll never underestimate the value of mud flaps after that. I didn't go through a lot of mud, but pretty much all of what my car picked up was just on the mud flaps, so they kept the rest of my car pretty clean.
Plan a route that ends at a clean flowing river
It is good way to get the mud off
I am lucky to have a river with a ford near by
going though a few times backwards and forwards gets a lot off
Thanks Ron this is very helpful! - from Philippines
how can anyone dislike this video.
Been waiting for this :P
Got some nice new hubs on the back axle there Ronny. Look forward to see a review. Keep up the good work, I really enjoy all your videos.
Good channel mate ! Just wanted to add a bit about driving in high speeds on low pressure, the when tire flex it heats up, and at low speeds it doesn't get too hot, but if you run on the highway with low pressure the tire cannot release all the heat it builds up and end up destroying your tire from inside out. Cheers from California
Good reminder. I've gotten lazy driving through Mexico/Central America. It's tough to care about the mud on the truck when your probably going to be driving through it again tomorrow:)
@ronny if you make a tight turn in the sand you can show (from above?) which wheels travel more than others quite easily.
awesome videos Ron. keep it up. hello from east coast Canada.
Norwegian Cod Fish are the best.
Great video, thanks Ronny.
Plastic Scrapers work well for getting off mud without being to sharp like metal ones.
great vid as always mate love ya work
Good tips Ronny, the only thing I would do differently is use a an engineers hammer (ball pein) to hammer out my steel rim, better results thanks to the rounded head.
Good advice, i just had a friend drive on aired down tyres (20 psi) for 12 months, he forgot to air up from 4WDing 12 months prior. Had no idea.
thanks RONNY great tips mate
Thanks again Ronny!
excellent video as always mate.
SL3IPNIR! Ronny is a Viking Warrior
On the question of allowable tyre load vs inflation pressure there are different formulae for 'P' (passenger) and 'LT' (light truck tyres).
The TRA (Tire and Rim Association) publish load vs inflation pressure data for LT tyres based on the formula:
Allowable Load = Max Load * (Inflation Pressure / Max Pressure)^0.7
where Max Load and Max Pressure are as marked on the sidewall.
The formula for 'P' tyres is the same except the index is 0.9 in place of 0.7 for 'LT' tyres. The lower index for 'LT' tyres provides an increase of the allowable load because an inflation pressure lower than the maximum reduces the stress in the carcase of the tyre.
Thank you for the awesome information
Great channel, Ronny! My truck is cheap old 95 series Prado but one day I wanna get 79 series and modify it like yours!! Subscribed :)
Takeo geta 80 series
Good advice, thanks.
(More for buying a second hand vehicle tip)
Also check that all your nuts arnt stripped, had a issue that the previous owner had stripped 50% of the nuts and out in the bush it aint fun trying to get them loose.
Some 40-odd years ago my grandpa showed me about using a bit 'o spit on a finger to spot a dodgy valve. 🤠👍 'onya Ronny. 😊👍
Good stuff Ronny. I'd love to get down there to Australia and do a run with you guys.
insaynbcr what truck do you have
1997 Tacoma XtraCab 4wd, bone stock. 5spd manual with 213k miles.
Hey Ronny love all of the videos you create and all of the advice videos. I was in a agreement with a mate of mine between tire width and his opinion is that skinnier tires are the way to go but my opinion is that a wider tire will be quote on quote better in the sand, mud, rocks and all the other terrains, and I we can not agree on what is the better way to go, so I was hoping that you might be able to make a video or if you have put the link in a comment replying to me. Thanks a lot if you can do so keep up the good work.
Make sure all your lights still work. Can sometimes knock connectors loose or sometimes bulbs
Very good advice
Thanks Ronny - really great advice/tips. Didn’t know you could get replacement valve stems - saves taking the tyre off to replace the whole stem 🙄😱. I’ll look out for them and the tool to add to my kit. 👍. Can you also use the air compressor as a blower to (for example) blow out dust etc from the radiator, or is it not advisable for any reason?
I can relate to the cv boot hole 😂😂😂 luckily I know a guy who can get me my car parts real cheap 😂
Great video, cheers!
Double thumbs up 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks man I learned a lot.
Hey Ronny when is the video on your new setup coming out you said soon and I'm soo keen to watch it 😊
Now I'm kind of okay with having a full time transfer case, I just find having a 2WD option would be good on gas. Kind of hard now to find a case with a part time and full time option
I see rust is very common in Australia. Do you guys use something like a coating of Fluid Film to keep the corrosion at bay? It helps with washing mud off too I've noticed.
Inox MX4
Tony P WD40 mate can even spay some on ya snags for extra bite
Haha, well a lanolin-based spray like Fluid Film or Inox has a few more pluses than WD40. I do carry a can of each on my trips though. WD certainly taste better when you get a mouthful in a strong wind.
Tony P haha yeah mate I carry inox too, and use it on my guns as well. Just couldn't go past a cheeky WD joke.
Listen guys and girls,
Inox make many products for rust and corrosion protection.
Whilst Inox is superior to WD40, they also have specific products like MX4 which is a sticky thick anti-rust (oxygen removing) H Duty coating for general rust proofing jobs on cars and 4wd's.
The regular spray can of Inox is amazing and multi-talented however there is specific products in the Inox line-up that do what they are made for.
And Inox grease is 1st class too.
The range of Inox products are world class.
great tips! thanks Ronny and crew
Hi Ronny I have a 06 Navara d40 and I am just starting into 4wheeling trips can you make a video what you check before you go on the track e what kind of tools you Carry with you. Greatings from belgium
Tristen Maes first of all sell that rubbish and buy a new truck or upgrade the rear suspension and drive line
Ronny in the states flinging mud and gravel(snow and gravel) can get you a ticket for making road hazards, even with mud flaps.
Hi Ronny,
Thanks for sharing these wonderful videos with us. Currently I own a 76 series LC with 2 inches of OME lift and considering to put a pair of superior engineering's 'U-Bolt Plate High Clearance'. None of my off-roading buddies could give me a first hand experience feedback. On this video, at 18:43, I saw Your mate got one. I know you're a busy bloke, but when you get a chance, would you be able to let me know what he thinks of them? I'm sick and tired of getting caught up on rocks. Please help a brother out haha. Cheers.
Hi ronny, Could you please do a modified episode on a 2004 our earlier Hilux single cab. I would really appreciate it.
Cheers
If you have manual locking hubs you can leave them locked while jumping on the road for a few kilometers/miles. I would recommend using the tire pressure that the vehicle requires. It should be in the door jam.
+Ken MacMillan yes you can so long as 4x4 is disengaged it's fine. All it's do is stir the diff oil around and is a good thing to do if you don't off-road often as it'll lubricate the diff center.
Hi Ronny...Willie here, URL's don't show up, ...sort cuts are not clickable. thnx for al the advise , love the sound of your machine
remember to free the 4wd hub for front if got manual hub...
Is there a tire pressure I can use if I need to move from gravel roads and highway constantly without having to inflate and deflate so many times
What tyres next? Doesnt look like heaps left in those
Ronny please do a modified video on that RG Colorado.
Great vid Ronny I want to ask can you do a 4.8 Nissan patrol on modified thx
Ronny, why don't you use inner tubes? So even with low pressure there is no risk of pushing the tire of the rim and if it does there no problem.
Can you please make a video on warranty with gvm upgrades
Ronny, could you make a video on Winch brands and what you use maybe? it would be super useful for people like me who want to buy a winch but can't decide what to buy, I don't want to be cheap and buy a smittybilt that could fail but also can't afford a warn, also with wire and synthetic rope
Thanks!
the problem with the toyota 4x4 you run is no centre diff
even going in a straight line you will get wind up
this is because the rear tyres get more worn than the front when in 2 wheel drive
making the rear wheels turn faster in a straight line
the best way to get out of 4x4 when the drive when it is tight and under strain
Pull over put some force on the gear stick towards 2 wheel drive
turn the steering to full lock
drive back and forward gently 1 or 2 feet don't force the car and wind up the shafts
when the strain is off it will pop to 2 wheel drive
Tony Carr oooh or you could drive a landrover and wont have breakdowns and failures
Jonathan Willis Don't bet on that. My parents had a 96 Discovery, were touring on the Nullarbor Plain, when 500k out from Perth the central locking & power window solenoids gave up. Had to turn around and go back to Perth to where the vehicle had just been serviced. Had to wait 3 days for parts to be sent from Adelaide.
I believe that if you want to explore the outback go in a Land Rover
if you want to get home go in a Land Cruiser
Jonathan Willis mate i agree landrovers dont break down i have a 98 defender and i drove it 1900km with 4 tonnes on a trailer no problems
bruce 130013 I think you miss the point
the Land Rover doesn't get you back home
Most tire manufacturers have a "Load Index Table" available for their tires. It will show the load carrying capacity at different pressures. This is quite handy for determining your lowest safe pressure for high speed use (high speed gravel, highway, etc)
Heres an example :) Jump down to page 20 for the LT sizes. Keep in mind this information will change between manufacturers
toyotires-1524598101.netdna-ssl.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf
you forgot your links buddy, you're pointing at thin air :D
Ronny, in your AWD vs 4WD video, it's probably worth noting that some vehicles like modern Jeeps, have "part-time 4wd" in 4wd high. This means we can use 4wd high on the highway with no problems. Which is really nice for driving in the heavy rain on the highway, by the way. That same is NOT true for 4wd low though. READ THE MANUAL before assuming anything though!
excellent
Sorry Ronny, why do not have a valve cap on the tire valve. (sorry Google translation).
And lastly, reset a bead using ether and fire. (advanced maneuver)
thanks for that
Hey Ronny, just wondering where the modified episode of that hilux you showed in the video? cant seem to find it and it looks like you were doing Q&A, cheers
It's not out yet
Great tips. Is there a link for the obd scan display you were using?
Btw.... nice work on the videos. Give the editor a pat on the back.
+Global Mobile 357 I'm using a scan gauge 2 you can find them anywhere. Thanks and I'll give myself a pat on the back 😉
Looks like someone got a new jmax rear end!
Hey Ronny
Are the grabbers any good in clay type of mud and up greasy hill climbs ? I’m using Bridgestone mt at the moment great tyre
Another thing I’m dodge at wiring up lights like reverse spotties and under car rock lights and vids on that mate cheers
Technically, a part-time 4x4 in 4wd does not split the power 50-50 front and back. It forces both driveshafts to rotate at the same speed and the power is distributed so that the wheels with the most traction get the most power. Driving around a curve, the front wheels travel further than the rears, but when the transfer case forces them to turn at the same speed, the transmission is applying a degree of braking to the front wheels.
If the transfer case had an open diff, such as found in some full-time 4x4, then the power is distributed equally, front to rear. Some full-time 4x4 transfer cases have torque biassing diffs typically 60% rear and 40% front, but that is getting off the point.
You can see the principles easier by looking at left and right wheels on the same axle. With the diff open power is distributed equally to both wheels. If one has no traction, both wheels get zero (equal) power. If you lock the diff so both half shafts are forced to rotate at the same speed, one wheel may have no power, if it is in the air, and the other receives 100% of the power at the axle.
This is just a moot point, it doesn't affect the reasons for disengaging 4wd on sealed roads.
That's exactly backwards. If you have part time 4wd, engaging it will split the power directly in half and sends 50% to the front and 50% to the rear. A center differential sends power down the path of least resistance just like an open differential. If you have a center differential that is lockable like some land rovers then you want to make sure that it is unlocked on pavement.
Sorry Ken, you are the one that has it backwards. True an open centre diff sends power to the path of least resistance, but the power is equal to both sides, i.e. if, because of low traction, only 1 kW goes to the side with less resistance, then only 1 kW can be sent to the side with greater resistance.
With your Land Rover example, when the centre diff is locked, the front and rear driveshafts turn at the same speed, but the distribution of power, front to rear is not necessarily equal. If the front wheels loose traction then most of the power is distributed to the rear wheels and it won't be equal front to rear.
Ken, I just did a quick search to find something that might explain this phenomenon better than I can. While I did not come up with anything great, note there is nothing to support your argument, I did find the following quote:
In open differential the distribution is fixed at 50-50. Both the wheels get the same amount of torque. Even when the two wheels are rotating at different speed, their average speed is always the same, equal to the speed of crown gear.
In locked differential however, the differential gears are locked together in certain cases i.e. when traction available to both the wheels differs drastically. This makes differential behave as a solid axle, forcing both the wheels to rotate at the same speed. As traction available to the wheels is different and yet the wheels are rotating at same speeds, the torque distribution is no more equal to 50-50.
This feature makes the locking differentials desirable in rough terrains, where half the time one of the wheels is in air or mud or water. When one of the wheels is in air, open differential will provide zero torque to both the wheels whereas locked differential will provide more torque to the wheel which is on the ground.
End quote, from here www.quora.com/Transmission-mechanics-In-an-open-differential-an-engine-sends-the-same-amount-of-torque-to-both-the-wheels-The-same-amount-of-torque-would-mean-same-speed-How-does-this-differ-from-the-locking-differential
Quora just proved me right.
"When one of the wheels is in air, open differential will provide zero torque to both the wheels whereas locked differential will provide more torque to the wheel which is on the ground".
Put the front or rear half of a vehicle with a center diff on ice and all of the torque goes to the tires on the ice and it goes nowhere. Lock the center diff and the driveshafts will spin as one unit sending 50% of the torque to the tires with traction and the vehicle will pull away. When you do a burnout with an open diff you get the infamous one wheel peel, same thing. Thanks for that.
With a part time 4wd you always split the torque 50/50 when you have 4wd engaged because both driveshafts are locked together like one unit. There's no differential action from front to rear and you will break something. What did you claim?
John Do: "
Technically, a part-time 4x4 in 4wd does not split the power 50-50 front and back. It forces both driveshafts to rotate at the same speed and the power is distributed so that the wheels with the most traction get the most power".
You claimed that a part time 4wd acts like a center diff and that is the opposite of what happens.
Sorry Ken you are not comprehending what was written. It proved you were wrong.
For example; "When one of the wheels is in air, open differential will provide zero torque to both the wheels whereas locked differential will provide more torque to the wheel which is on the ground".
If the torque is zero to both sides, then it is equal on both sides and the distribution is therefore 50-50. When the locked diff provides more torque to the wheel on the ground then the torque is NOT equal to both sides, is NOT 50-50, but closer to 100-0.
Bye, over and out.