this has got to be the most aesthetically pleasing 9a I've seen. it follows a really obvious and interesting line. plus the calm and controlled style made it look easy.
I've seen him climbing before here at the boulders climbing gym. He was climbing right beside me. And at one competition I got to take a Picture with him it was alwesome!
Every time I wanna get pumped for some good climbing this video does it for me. Perfect combo with the music and hard climbing. @Sean McColl you coming to the grand opening for Brock's gym in Chilliwack?
@vlkos also if you listen to Sharma's part from Dosage, he says his fingers were to fat to fit into the last few end moves. I wonder if McColl has a thinner profile to his tips that might have also helped.
That's a good question, that route doesn't look top rope friendly lol. Most likely as people tried the rout all day they put up the draws as they got farther along.
@boady1111 True it looked easier, but you can't hear Sean cos of the soundtrack, if Sharma had no sound of his little shouts then they'd both look pretty similar! Also at 2:55 Sean matches before going up and round that corner whereas Sharma still had his left hand on the hold before so making the following move harder... And is the route not the moves to get up as opposed to the line?
Man, beautiful climbing. Like everyone says, ridiculous feet. Did he have this wired or what? Skipping the clip on that last dyno - bold move. Could have been a skull smashing pendulum. Thanks for posting.
@Arrygoo ..I thing, when you do first ascent and dont know the grade, possibility....its much harder....And Sean could have read moves and technics from Sharmas movie, so he went faster and more comfortable...cool anyway
I remember watching a video of Chris Sharma’s FA of this route, thinking it looked like a desperate slapfest on slopers and that it would never become popular. I was wrong on both counts-younger climbers (and even _more_ younger climbers) seem to be cruising it statically.
If the music sounded weird it's because it's a mashup of two songs. Dead Prez - Hip Hop and Grizzly Bear - Two Weeks. You can find it on youtube with a search. The Grizzly Bear song is amazing. I wish they would've mashed it with a better rap song, but it didn't turn out too bad.
It'd be nice to be able to do this someday, Not for pride, but just to see what it felt like and what might have gone through Sharma's mind as he did it.
By the time Sharma had actually sent the route he knew all the moves in his sleep. By the time any climber sends a route they have been working on it is simply executing the moves, they already have them all memorized. With that said, McColl simply has a smoother style of climbing than Sharma. Mad respect to Sharma and the number of new hard routes that he has establushed. Hes been great for the sport. My personal favorite to watch is onsight ground up trad. Makes me cring just watching it
The reason it looked easier is that he has more refined movement then sharma, and these vids are not Seans first ascent of the climb. According to my buddy he made the send and then came back with a camera crew.
@vlkos Chris and Sean both tried it a bunch of times. It's not like Chris flashed it. If Sean made it look easier (and I agree he did) it's simply because he made it look easier.
@Arrygoo Two completely different climbing styles. Although both are excellant climbers, Sharma is known for hard aggressive moves because of his bouldering training. McColl is a smoother climbing, which makes it look like hes doing it a lot easier
@LeoFantasia Chris Sharma is not the only person in the world who can sequence.... Plus not all of the beta is the same. For example, Chris did A dyno bump right where Sean matches at 2:55.
No way his ascent is smoother than Sharma´s! He shifts and swings much more; Sharma´s moves give a greater feeling of control and effortlessness. Anyway, he managed an awesomely difficult climb and deserves all the merits. Few can do what he did. Wish I could...
Its a mashup between Grizzly Bear- Two Weeks & Dead Prez- Hip Hop. Doesn't sound like professional sound quality or anything.. probably one of the audio guys doing a quick mix for the video.
Whoever did this music, they did not edit the original song (Grizzly Bear - Two Weeks) AT ALL, they just let the song play and rapped over it. Just the original would have been much better on the ears...
Eh. The music cut out for Chris when he reached the crux so you could hear him grunting and yelling getting through the crux. It also showed him figuring out all the moves. Sharma looked very strong and smooth on his send. Sean's was clean as well. I'd say it comes down to a matter of opinion.
+DetNosnip the clip is right in the middle of the crux, it makes more sense to skip it and hope for the best instead of wasting time and energy to clip it
Its always funny how a people sitting in there chairs can talk a bunch of trash about how beta makes its so much easier and how he followed the lead and all this B.S. what i really wonder is if any of you have a video from start to finish on this route ? lol..... that's what i thought!
I would have liked to see footage from the actual ascent. It's clear that many of the sequences have been shot after a period of resting on the rope, otherwise you'd see him struggle and fight to get to the top. I really am not a fan of climbing videos edited in this way, at least tell the guy to fake being tired.. (good effort on climbing the route though)
HE USE ALL SHARMA MOVE...I'VE WATCH SHARMA SEND THIS ROUTE...THE MOVE IS EXACTLY THE SAME...SHARMA STILL LEGEND...IF SEAN WAS SO GOOD, WHY DONT HE USE OTHER KIND OF MOVE...LONG LIVE SHARMA!!!
Made it look like a 5.8, fucking awesome man
this has got to be the most aesthetically pleasing 9a I've seen. it follows a really obvious and interesting line. plus the calm and controlled style made it look easy.
This is the coolest climb I've seen. He does this so smoothly and precisely. Really awesome. And the song rocks too:)
Clean. Always remarkable stability and core strength. Looking forward to watching your 2019 comp season. Good luck
This guy looks more like spiderman than any other climber. His original technique and smooth body control are off the charts.
the sound is EPIC!🤗
I wish I could see you climbing one day here in Brazil.
Good Shit McColl It sucked to see you fall in atlanta, good luck in your future performances.
I've seen him climbing before here at the boulders climbing gym. He was climbing right beside me. And at one competition I got to take a Picture with him it was alwesome!
I have just one thing to say : amazing !
Sean looks so old school hero here, it's amazing.
wtf happened to the audio track??? i used to see this vid everyday long ago but now the song is sounding bad
Yeah I thought I was going crazy, but it sounds like there is intermittent muffling during the song.
Dead prez - hip hop
Every time I wanna get pumped for some good climbing this video does it for me. Perfect combo with the music and hard climbing. @Sean McColl you coming to the grand opening for Brock's gym in Chilliwack?
Nice send man, thats awesome! It looked so effortless
Soo NICE is nice to see people going hard, really motivates to climb harder
amazing
@vlkos also if you listen to Sharma's part from Dosage, he says his fingers were to fat to fit into the last few end moves. I wonder if McColl has a thinner profile to his tips that might have also helped.
awesome
WOW ! Cheers man ! major props ! keep it up!
That's a good question, that route doesn't look top rope friendly lol. Most likely as people tried the rout all day they put up the draws as they got farther along.
Great athletes make extremely hard look effortless and fun.
Sean is mostly a boulderer but clearly is very strong on lead as well. He just floats this thing... dayyyum
The tune is Two Weeks by Grizzly Bear with some rap on the side..
Cant find the version of the song you used! So good, what is it!
I wondered this for the longest time too. Just found out it's "Dead Prez vs Grizzly Bear - Two Weeks"
@boady1111
True it looked easier, but you can't hear Sean cos of the soundtrack, if Sharma had no sound of his little shouts then they'd both look pretty similar! Also at 2:55 Sean matches before going up and round that corner whereas Sharma still had his left hand on the hold before so making the following move harder... And is the route not the moves to get up as opposed to the line?
The song is Dead Prez vs Gizzly Bear - Two weeks of hip hop
You can't compare him to Chris by looking at a video, they have completely different styles. They both sent the route.
Man, beautiful climbing. Like everyone says, ridiculous feet. Did he have this wired or what? Skipping the clip on that last dyno - bold move. Could have been a skull smashing pendulum. Thanks for posting.
When we went to film this, it was one week after I redpointed, so the moves were incredibly dialed!
@Arrygoo ..I thing, when you do first ascent and dont know the grade, possibility....its much harder....And Sean could have read moves and technics from Sharmas movie, so he went faster and more comfortable...cool anyway
1:13 look at that heel hook! His feet are basically like hands
whattttt this is how u send this! Krushing it Sean!
Have you seen his training
I remember watching a video of Chris Sharma’s FA of this route, thinking it looked like a desperate slapfest on slopers and that it would never become popular. I was wrong on both counts-younger climbers (and even _more_ younger climbers) seem to be cruising it statically.
i walked by this climb once and that slab is BLANK!
If the music sounded weird it's because it's a mashup of two songs. Dead Prez - Hip Hop and Grizzly Bear - Two Weeks. You can find it on youtube with a search. The Grizzly Bear song is amazing. I wish they would've mashed it with a better rap song, but it didn't turn out too bad.
this used to be one of my favorite videos to get motivated for climbing everyday... it´s a pitty the music got fucked up...
I know! So annoying. Maybe I should re-upload with a different sound track...
It'd be nice to be able to do this someday, Not for pride, but just to see what it felt like and what might have gone through Sharma's mind as he did it.
He made that look easy!
how do they get the draws up there?
Sharma put them up
Its a remix... With the lyrics of Dead Prez-Hip Hop, and its a classic song.
By the time Sharma had actually sent the route he knew all the moves in his sleep. By the time any climber sends a route they have been working on it is simply executing the moves, they already have them all memorized. With that said, McColl simply has a smoother style of climbing than Sharma. Mad respect to Sharma and the number of new hard routes that he has establushed. Hes been great for the sport. My personal favorite to watch is onsight ground up trad. Makes me cring just watching it
he actually sent it?!?! wow! in how many work sessions ?
YEAAHHH SEANNN
The reason it looked easier is that he has more refined movement then sharma, and these vids are not Seans first ascent of the climb. According to my buddy he made the send and then came back with a camera crew.
@vlkos Chris and Sean both tried it a bunch of times. It's not like Chris flashed it. If Sean made it look easier (and I agree he did) it's simply because he made it look easier.
Didn't Sharma map it? which is harder than just following the lead
wow no rest!
It’s nice to see a high level technical climber climbing with class. In other words not screaming like a lunatic
Owned
@Arrygoo Two completely different climbing styles. Although both are excellant climbers, Sharma is known for hard aggressive moves because of his bouldering training. McColl is a smoother climbing, which makes it look like hes doing it a lot easier
nice vid!!
what an impressive rock
@LeoFantasia Chris Sharma is not the only person in the world who can sequence.... Plus not all of the beta is the same. For example, Chris did A dyno bump right where Sean matches at 2:55.
was that a flash?
7 years late lmao, but No.
was this his first attempt?
No, he worked on that for a while
WOW! he f*cking hiked it!
I cant imagine how hard is it to take quickdraws off xd
They're pretty permanant!
No way his ascent is smoother than Sharma´s! He shifts and swings much more; Sharma´s moves give a greater feeling of control and effortlessness. Anyway, he managed an awesomely difficult climb and deserves all the merits. Few can do what he did. Wish I could...
@Arrygoo LaSportiva's heel
I take it this wasn't a flash? I'm guessing because it was edited
+Brandon Donaldson Well it's 9a. Alex Megos was the first ever to flash that grade and it was last year.
+teodustus damn I didn't know that. ty for the info
song?
unfound remix of Two Weeks - Grizzly Bear
Its a mashup between Grizzly Bear- Two Weeks & Dead Prez- Hip Hop. Doesn't sound like professional sound quality or anything.. probably one of the audio guys doing a quick mix for the video.
@vlkos exactly! bur cool anyway!! :)
Whoever did this music, they did not edit the original song (Grizzly Bear - Two Weeks) AT ALL, they just let the song play and rapped over it. Just the original would have been much better on the ears...
good job at IFSC world cup sean :D
one of the greatest sport climb video, ruin beacause of yt sound :/
Mute works great.
so much cleaner then chris
Yes, he's so good that he's REPEATING a climb established by an American. Takes a lot of talent to follow along in someone else's shadow.
mangore623 what are you on about mate ? so what if it wasnt a FA i said it was cleaner, no need to go on about pointless shit.
Eh. The music cut out for Chris when he reached the crux so you could hear him grunting and yelling getting through the crux. It also showed him figuring out all the moves. Sharma looked very strong and smooth on his send. Sean's was clean as well. I'd say it comes down to a matter of opinion.
mangore623 Nice and tough over a keyboard arnt you ? stop sitting on a computer and go climb, proberly cant even climb 28's
Chris can't use the pinscars. Sean can.
What, come on, Sharma did this years ago and he's beyond this now. no comparison.
hows he going to get to the slopey traverse? oh, massive 4 points dyno. fair enough
I can't even do a V5.
I don't really get your point here.
Good filming, nice line, unbelievable climb, but grab the sound next time please: this music was really annoying ...
This video should probably be called: "Bruce Lee - Dreamcatcher".
very nice video, beautiful and elegant ascent ..... shame about the background music incredibly inappropriate :-)!!! Thanks for sharing it
he didn't like that this one did it in one step :p
Its allmost painful to see how easy he makes the climb look.
This is the song th-cam.com/video/5LzIS360q-M/w-d-xo.html
I'm sure Sean just used tons of beta...we all know how much beta can help. :)
Ballsy skipping that clip...would have been a HUGE swing if he fell clipping the next, haha.
+DetNosnip every ascentionist has skipped that clip. It's just there for handogging.
+DetNosnip the clip is right in the middle of the crux, it makes more sense to skip it and hope for the best instead of wasting time and energy to clip it
Lol makes that look easy
wow he made it look easier than sharma....
Its always funny how a people sitting in there chairs can talk a bunch of trash about how beta makes its so much easier and how he followed the lead and all this B.S. what i really wonder is if any of you have a video from start to finish on this route ? lol..... that's what i thought!
Have my babies?! ;)
...!...Rs!..(Universal!.. .)UuULl!...Rs!.. .
I would have liked to see footage from the actual ascent. It's clear that many of the sequences have been shot after a period of resting on the rope, otherwise you'd see him struggle and fight to get to the top.
I really am not a fan of climbing videos edited in this way, at least tell the guy to fake being tired..
(good effort on climbing the route though)
Too bad it wasn't all in one go.
+curtyuiop He had sent it a week earlier. They just filmed it from multiple angles here and probably had him climb different parts of it.
+IC3M4NX alll righty then.
Funny enough I actually repeated the route 3 times while filming that day. So the clips stitched together were all sends :)
Nice work Sean and outstanding climbing!! :)
Sean McColl Makes me even more impressed, big up!
Individually, Two Weeks and Hip Hop are way better, but mashed, its just kife
2 great songs combined into one terrible song. I went to my Itunes because I thought one song was playing from there and the other from the video.
@skiwhh
ya i agree sharma sucks lol
tune is dead prez
Great climb, fantastic climber, lousy tunes.
HE USE ALL SHARMA MOVE...I'VE WATCH SHARMA SEND THIS ROUTE...THE MOVE IS EXACTLY THE SAME...SHARMA STILL LEGEND...IF SEAN WAS SO GOOD, WHY DONT HE USE OTHER KIND OF MOVE...LONG LIVE SHARMA!!!
Couldn't finish watching this, the music was too terrible. Cool video though
Better than Chris Sharma on that route.
... 나는 아직도 5.11b
better than Chris Sharma
get real. sharma got the first ascent and and it was recorded giving everyone else the beta on how to climb it.
Sharma's music was WAY better..
tune is dead prez