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How to Effectively Charge RV Batteries While Driving
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2024
- Quick update (3-2021): In this video, we send the charging current through the 7-way connector. This will work, but not optimally. We have since noticed a small drop in voltage between the DC to DC charger and the house batteries on the trailer. Instead, we recommend connecting the DC to DC charger to the battery bank using quick connect cables such as Anderson connectors. Note: You will need 2 of these cables -- one from the charger to the battery and one from the battery to the charger, using the quick disconnect when you separate your tow vehicle from your trailer.
In this video we'll cover:
1. Why your RV batteries don't get an effective charge while you drive.
2. How the DC to DC Battery Charger works and integrates into your towing vehicle and RV system to reduce charging times.
3. Our step-by-step installation of the Battery Charger into a 2017 Toyota Highlander that tows a 22 foot Micro Minnie Winnebago Travel Trailer.
Brief Overview:
Most travel trailers connect to their towing vehicle with a 7-way plug connection, which provides power to the trailer. At only 5 amps, this isn't enough current to effectively charge the trailer batteries.
With a DC to DC battery charger integrated into this system, it acts like a pump to electronically boost the voltage (pressure) and amperage (flow) coming from the starting battery to provide a more effective charge to the RV batteries and greatly reduce charging time. The maximum amperage with the DC to DC battery charger installed is closer to 20 amps, rather than just 5 amps with a trickle charge.
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Go directly to the 20A DC to DC Battery Charger
renogy.sjv.io/LPoZQM
If you are trying to decide between a standard or dual input DC to DC charger, as well as how to size it appropriately for your system, this article will walk you through it: www.renogy.com/blog/so-many-d...
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Disclaimer: Most of the videos we make include affiliate links and paid sponsorship, this helps keeps our information free and us on the road (10 years and counting!).
This video is intended to help users plan, organize, calculate, and install a personal DIY solar powered electrical system. We, Shari & Hutch (Freedom in a Can, LLC), are neither professional electricians nor solar installers; we are educators who have learned to install our own system and to empower others to do the same. If you have questions, reach out in the comments section and we'll get back to you.
If you need further assistance beyond our advice, consult a solar professional or certified electrician. Electricity is dangerous, so do your homework, take it one step at a time, and good luck!
BIG NEWS!!! Use CANLIFE promo code at Renogy checkout to save an additional 10% off most products -- even on SALE items! Use this affiliate link: renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY Promo code CANLIFE valid in the United States, Canada, Germany, Australia, and the United Kingdom!
This video is the best I've found regarding the renogy dc-dc charger!! No missed steps all the way on down to the fuse tap and the inline fuse on the starter battery!! Thank you for making this it was extremely helpful!!!!!!
You're welcome! It was fun to do, so glad you liked it.
Great job and great video, So two observations; 1) there’s no need for the DC charger to be powered on if the trailer is not connected, so your 12v Enable Wire should come from the trailer through the 7 Pin Connector to the Charger. 2) Yes, you now have 20amps of charge current via that 8 ga wire, but it stops at the charger and does not continue on through the 7 pin connector. Delivering 20amps to the trailer requires you to extend an 8 ga wire through the 7 pin connector all the way to the trailer batteries, else you’re just using the 16 ga wiring that comes std with that connector - that becomes a fire risk if the trailer batteries are sufficiently discharged and start drawing a lot of current. Good luck!
Hey thanks for the feedback! You are absolutely right. We actually added an 8AWG wire through Anderson connectors to the DC busbars on the trailer. And now, we're seeing the correct amount charging on the battery monitor. We put a 2021 update in this video's description - but not everyone reads it. Thanks for the positive feedback.
This is the best and the most relevant video I have found so far. I have a Toyota RAV4 and was going to install a DC 2 DC charger. We already have the black wire coming from the battery to the 7 way. My hardest is how to get the new 8 AWG wire from battery to back, maybe will try your method. We will use Anderson plugs.
Thanks! We just uploaded an additional video where we installed waterproof 6AWG on a friend's Toyota Tacoma for their Renogy REGO 60A DC to DC charger using Anderson Connectors, give it a look. th-cam.com/video/IsRrIKzWpFo/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to make it.
Many thanks, it was fun to make and Hutch's parents are very pleased with how it charges their battery now!
Shari & Hutch,
Here’s some feedback on Renogy’s 60A DC-to-DC charger that you recommended to us. It works great! On two separate occasions the AIMs 200Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery that we installed in our 31 ft travel trailer was between a 20% and 25% charge (after some dry camping) when we turned on our charger while pulling the camper down the road to our next campsite. [We have a 2017 Ford F-150 pickup with a very capable 220 amp alternator. We ran 2 gauge stranded copper cables from our battery to the Renogy charger located in the covered bed of our pickup. We ran 4 gauge copper cables from the charger to our travel trailer’s battery with a heavy duty quick disconnect (Andersen type) for the two cables at the back of our truck]. In both cases it charged the battery (at 53-56 amps) to 100% within 3 hours time. Thanks for recommending a great product!
Wonderful! Thanks for the feedback. So glad it worked well for you.
Great explanation on how to do this…think I will put one in my boat in fact!!
Thanks! Yes, great for boats as well. Happy to help of you have further questions.
Thank you for a great video👍
Great video, thanks Hutch! I’m definitely going to see about doing this.
Hey there, thanks for the comment. Be sure to use Anderson connections between the vehicle and trailer, it will charge much quicker. Here's another video that will give a bit more detail on that step. th-cam.com/video/IsRrIKzWpFo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SS450uHB_JvlHjJS. All the best!
Excellent. Very easy to understand for dummy like me. Thanks
Thank you. Please let us know if you have any questions when you do your install, and be sure to take advantage of the promo code in the comments section to save some money.
Incredible video
Thanks!
Thanks for making the video, I'm looking at installing one of the chargers on my 2011 F350 and your video gave me ideas and a plan starter to get it done.
Thanks for the great feedback, and you are so welcome! Let us know if you need anything else to get started. Good luck!
Hey Folks, just a quick update about this install. We've noticed a small voltage drop as a result of sending the current through the 7-pin connector. So, we would recommend using a different cable (Anderson for example) which could make an easy and quick connect and disconnect between the charger and the trailer batteries. Good Luck.
Any updates on charging time after you made this change?
What bout over loading the alternator... To be able to charge car batt, rv and run rv inverter to run fridge... I have ruined a alternator on the car doing this... Does the DC yo dc device limit the power pulling from car and alternator?
@@stifflerjj4 The 20A version will limit the current going back to the RV batteries to 20Amps. By connecting via the starting battery, rather than alternator directly, and with proper fusing between all components, you should avoid any overtaxing of the hardware. But remember, it's really the size of the battery bank in the RV that helps you run all those electronics, not the vehicle's alternator. The charger is really taking the excess voltage from the alternator, boosting it to get an appropriate charge to the RV batteries.
@@FreedomInACan
Thank you so much for this video everybody and their brother is telling me I'm full of crap that there is no such thing to limit the alternator output to save your car alternator from pulling to many amps, I have already burned up one alternator a few years back trying to run a well pump off an inverter and inverter going to straight to the starter battery while the vehicle is running, I plan on going with option 2 using a dc-to-dc controller in my application I have an off-the-grid camper on a property that has two batteries with a solar panel to charge while I'm gone during the wk and, when I show up on weekends hook up car to charge and help power the rv. House batt run lights and a inverter to run fridge and microwave my goal would be I think option two.... being able to pull up with the vehicle hook up battery cables to the vehicle and let the car run as a generator to charge the camper batteries when were there over the weekend I've been looking around forever to find out how to protect the alternator from shorting its lifespan by drawing too much amps when the car is running charging the starter battery and the house batteries and the inverter pulling power for the fridge. I was trying to isolate / protect the alternator and reduce the maximum output amps, the question I have for you is you said be generous when it comes to gauging what dc-to-dc controller to get, what is the percentage would I go with when matching off the car alternator amps capabilities as that changing the alternator on the vehicle is a whole weekend project... Also would ur second meathod work with a solar system hooked up and if so what dc to DC Controler to choose
@@stifflerjj4 Okay. I think I understand your questions. If you are driving to and from your RV location, without the RV, then the best method is to have an appropriately sized off-grid solar system that will meet your energy demands during the time you are there. See this video to show you how to do that. th-cam.com/video/vBI4rrj0HIQ/w-d-xo.html
The DC to DC charger is really designed to take advantage of a charge from the vehicle while you are towing. Can it charge while you're idling next to the camper? Sure -- but that should only be a "just in case" situation. You're probably going to put more wear and tear on your vehicle sitting there at idle, than just using a small and quiet generator. My advice would be to just get a battery and solar panel set up to match what you want to run and you're all set. I hope that helps.
The DC to DC charger can't boost both voltage and current at the same time without providing additional power. That's thermodynamically impossible. However, upsizing the wires like you did would definitely improve power transmission.
Thanks for the video learned alot and will be installing a 20amp as well. We'll probably go with not using the 7 pin connector but through seperate Anderson plugs to maximize the 20amps input to charge are batteries. Hopefully it works out... Again thanks for the video!
Thanks for the comment. As ambassadors, we can offer you 10% off this product. See video description for details and promo code. Best of luck! Let us know if you run into any issues during installation. Happy to help out!
consider using silicone tape for wiring...works great! It bonds ONLY to itself, stretching it activates the tape
That's a great idea! I will give it a try next time.
This is an excellent video - I'm so happy I found it. I plan to do a similar install, also on a 2017 Highlander. You saved me a lot of frustration as I was also assuming I'd find somewhere in the main fuse box for the ignition signal wire. One question: Renogy warns that the unit is to be installed in a ventilated enclosure so that it doesn't overheat. Have you noticed any issue? Maybe the small 20 amp unit doesn't produce enough heat to be a problem. Thanks for sharing your install.
Thanks for the comment. As there was plenty of space in the compartment, we haven't noticed overheating, vent fan needs space to draw air. But we are re-thinking going through the 7-way. It seems that there might be some voltage drop. So, consider using Anderson connectors from the output to the trailer battery, especially if you have to go more than 8 feet.
@@FreedomInACan Good to know overheating hasn't been a problem. Worst case it looks like one could prop open the small cover panel on the left corner of the highlander for ventilation. As for the existing 7 pin wiring back to the trailer, I agree. I plan to run a new wire pair (hot and ground) with heavier gauge wire and Anderson plugs. I hate to do all this upgrade and then create an electrical bottleneck for this last few feet. Again, your video was super helpful in my planning.
A very good video, that explains a lot in simple terms to someone who is just starting a trailer project.
One question though, If you have solar on your trailer and you need to run extra cables in parallel with your 7-pin anyway (as per your 03-2021 update), would it not be better to install the charger on the trailer side to take full advantage of the solar panels when the trailer stands disconnested from the tow vehicle?
That is certainly an option. Ultimately, the closer the charger is to your battery bank the less volage drop that you'll have in between charger and battery. What it sounds like you want is the Dual input On Board Battery Charger, renogy.sjv.io/rQ3X2j. This would take both a solar charge, and an engine charge - when connected to the towing vehicle starting battery, appropriately. We did this very installation as a part of our REGO system install series last year. Episode 3 shows wiring the truck for the charger, and in this case the charger is in the trailer (Episode 4 shows that in detail).
Episode 3 th-cam.com/video/IsRrIKzWpFo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pB0FUuQFeT_OPdeT
Episode 4 th-cam.com/video/dVD1oRIgBQc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wqcDFlekD7d341mR
Let us know if you have any questions and be sure to order with our affiliate link renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code "CANLIFE" at checkout.
Hello. I assume this will work in a camper van as well. The reason I ask is because I have solar system in my van that will allow my solar panel to top off my starter battery when the house battery is fully charged but will not allow my starter battery to charge my house battery while driving. Could I add this to my existing system to top off my house battery while I drive? also what stops the unit from over charging the batteries? I have deep cycle AGM batteries.
Hi Kendall, Thanks for the comment. What you need is the DUAL input DC to DC Charger which I mention at 2:30 in the video. It is compatible with all types of solar deep cycle batteries, you just need to set the device for AGM. This will charge your house battery while driving as well as allow a charge to come in from the solar panels, with any excess power returning to your starting battery. This product will replace your current battery isolator and/or solar charge controller, which is what I assume you already have on your camper van. The charge controller function keeps the battery from being overcharged (that's its main job). Depending on the size of your solar array and house battery, you will need either the 30A or 50A version of the DUAL input. TH-cam is having problems with links in comments, so go up to the video description for 10% off this product! Let us know if you have any further questions, and feel free to contact us via email as well: freedominacan1957@gmail.com
Important question: when I connect the Renogy unit to the house battery directly as you suggest in your update (with Andersen connectors) do I have to disconnect the built-in charging system that runs through the seven pin connector?
No, my father left that connection in place, when he added the larger gauge wires and Anderson Connectors, and it doesn't seem to disturb the process. Hope that helps.
Nice.
Thanks!
Great work, glad to have found your video. Im pulling a 41 5th wheel and using Ecoflow Delta Pro power station that resides in the 5th wheel basement. I pull it with 2500 Duramax. Will this dc to dc set up work to charge the Ecoflow Delta Pro? Max DC input is 1600w, 150v 15 amp max input. TIA
Couple of thoughts. First off. Does your truck have a rear bed inverter? Because you might just charge using AC power from that source while driving, just double check that the inverter is 1800W or less. The DC to DC Car input (cig port) on the Ecoflow Delta is 8A @12V which would take a long time to recharge while driving. I wouldn't recommend using the DC to DC charger as a "solar input" because the unit is rated at 20A and the solar input max in the Ecoflow is 15A. This is a pretty big unit, do you use it for other portable functions besides the 5th wheel? Because you would get more charging power from both your truck and solar if you installed individual components, Solar Charge Controller, Battery Bank, DC to DC charger, and Inverter / Charger as separate components rather than in one portable generator like the EcoFlow Delta Pro, which is really built with AC charging in mind. I hope that makes sense, let us know if you have any further questions.
EDIT: I see they DO make a connector - Anderson Connector. So you could install the DC/DC charger in the camper and run the Anderson connector plug from the truck to the camper! Cool!
great video, I was looking for this! wondering do you put in the truck or in the travel trailer and make a connector. Wondering now how the location would change with wiring in also solar panels? They should make a full plug connector so you could install the DC/DC into your travel trailer and plug it into a connector on your truck - maybe mounting the connector next to your 7 pin input socket? That would be the neatest way to probably do it. So you would plug in your normal 7 pin when hooked up and ready to go, and plug in the wiring harness for the Dc/Dc device. I'm just thinking out loud...doing all this research. Thank you for making this video.
Thanks! Yes, and if you want to integrate solar into the system, you'll want the Dual Input version of this DC to DC charger, which we installed in our truck to run a 12V cooler, but it can easily be installed in your trailer with Anderson connectors. Here's a link to an installation of the Dual Input DC to DC charger: th-cam.com/video/ur7gKRKp7aY/w-d-xo.html. Holler back with questions.
@@FreedomInACan Thank you very much for the quick reply --- we are in the learning stages of installing solar with lithium and I like to put that dc/dc charger in the loop too.
@@KJC63 You'll love it! It's changed our boondocking life. PS It's currently on sale at Renogy.com for $212 and with our affiliate link and code "canlife" you can save an additional 10%.
Do I need to be concerned about the loads in the trailer that are drawing current while travelling? The biggest load is the DC refrigerator which draws 10 amps. Will the DC-DC charger still adequately charge the trailer battery?
If your battery bank is already sized appropriately (Ah) to handle your off-grid load, then your base load, (those things you need to have on all the time) shouldn't cause too much trouble for your battery. You need to make sure that the size of the DC to DC charger (Amps) is sized appropriately for your trailer batteries. What you're looking for is the maximum battery charging current, these can be found in the specs on your battery. If you match the size of the charger correctly, as well as all your wiring and fusing appropriately, your battery should be able to charge while still powering the base load. It won't charge as quickly while it's under a load, of course. Read this blog on choosing the right size charger for your batteries. renogy.sjv.io/kj1R4n
You said that Renogy makes a dual input DC to DC battery charger that take that takes solar input also! What is the Renogy part number for the dual input item??? Thank you
Hi Charles, Yes, we have one installed on our own vehicle and love it! Check out the pinned comment at the TOP of this video for a blog with details/product info as well as learn how to choose between styles and size a DC to DC charger to fit your equipment and lifestyle. You may also want to check out our Maximize Boondocking Power video on this channel for installation steps and tips for the Dual Input version. Holler back with further questions.
Would this work in charging a single deep
Charge 100ah 12v that I use for my little mobile office printer? I have the deep charge battery in the back area of my vehicle.
Possibly. What are the charging parameters of the battery in question? What type of battery (LFP, AGM, flooded, etc.)?What's the maximum continuous charging current that the battery can take in? This blog (and associated charts) may help you answer these questions, as well as introduce you to other charger options that may be of interest to you: renogy.sjv.io/MXokzo Holler back with further questions!
Hi nice video one question with the settings why did you turn 3 off
Good question. We set the charger settings according to the manual based upon the 12V Lead Acid Battery that we're using in the RV. Different types of batteries require different settings.
🙌🙌👍👍
I have a question if your alternator can be hooked to this device and it puts out AC but it says on the device that is a DC to DC which is it?
Yeah, this is confusing. You are connecting the DC to DC charger to the alternator through the starting battery. When charging the starting battery, the AC current from the alternator gets changed to DC. So your electrical system in the vehicle is all DC. This makes it easy to charge an auxiliary battery as we've shown in this video. The DC to DC charger boosts the voltage and the current to more effectively charge that auxiliary battery. I hope this helps!
How much charge loss are we talking when using the 7-way? I want more charging than the 5amp from my vehicle battery, but not sure going the extra with the anderson clips will be needed as I do camp at sites with power. I just want to make sure my fridge runs on 12V while traveling and still have enough battery for my Enduro Power mover when arriving at my destination before plugging in. (FYI I have a single 100AH AGM battery in the camper).
Hi Carol, I really can't specify how much loss we are talking about here. So much depends on the gauge of wire that you use and the distance between the plug and your battery. We initially went this way because the batteries were less than 8 feet away. To minimize loss and maximize charging, I'd have to recommend going with the Anderson connections or some other quick disconnect that is outside of the 7-pin.
@@FreedomInACan Thanks
Watching your install, question, when you talk about neutral, I’m taking it as negative ??
Yep, negative and neutral, in this case, meant the same thing.
How is the 7pin connector handling the 20amps from the charger, I would be concerned about the wire gauge in your trailer pigtail being able to handle that current. Otherwise, great video
Thanks for the comment. It seems to be working fine. Because the distance from the unit to the battery was less than 16ft, 10AWG was an appropriate gauge, also protected with 25A inline fuse. See page #14 of the installation manual from Renogy. www.renogy.com/content/RNG-DCC1212-20-BC/DCC1212-204060-Manual.pdf
Thanks for the video!
I especially love your tip about the dual input charger!!!
How do you know that your 7 way connector and the wire to charge your battery are 10AWG or bigger - they might be 12AWG.
Our batteries will be in our dinette bench at the back of our 21 ft trailer - so it is good to mention that would require 6AWG wire, which is probably much larger than what is in the trailer’s hookup cable!
Hi Rhonda, thanks for your comment, glad you liked the video. As to your question, we measured the wire and consulted with the Renogy Engineers. Keep in mind that we installed the 20A unit which doesn't require as big of cabling, unless you're going a long distance. According to the Renogy installation manual 12AWG was recommended for the distance the load had to go, since it was less than 8 feet from charger to batteries. See page #14 of the installation manual from Renogy. www.renogy.com/content/RNG-DCC1212-20-BC/DCC1212-204060-Manual.pdf
Any of the bigger Amp versions of this charger should definitely be connected via Anderson connectors and not directly through the 7-pin way. Enjoy the installation!
Thanks for the great video! I don’t have a 7way connector on my truck, but it sounds like that’s not necessary if I used those Anderson connectors and connect it straight to the house battery, is that right? Thanks again!
Yeah, that's right. Since it's a truck you want to be sure to ground the Anderson all the way back to the starting battery, a bit more money on wiring, but a much better connection. Also be sure to fuse between starting battery and charger, as well as between charger and battery. You might want to think about putting a switch on the positive lead at the starting battery so that when you drive around without the trailer you can turn off any power to those Anderson connectors. Make sense?
Be sure to use our affiliate link in the video description, plus promo code "CANLIFE." There is a sale going on right now and we believe that it will get you an additional 10% off. Good luck!
@@FreedomInACan thank you! Super helpful!
@@mattgettleman686 Happy to help...let us know if you need further info.
Thanks you for your great vidéo. I would like tot now what the max current is that you van past by the connections câble to the caravan.?
Thanks you in advance for tour answer. Joop
Thanks for the comment, Joop. Now that we've got the DC to DC charger connected appropriately through an Anderson connector - (video on that coming...). We're able to see 20A coming into the house battery bank from the car. We also installed a battery monitor which shows the amps in and out of the battery bank - which we didn't have when we originally made this video.
@@FreedomInACan
That is a verry good solution. Thanks for Charing thuis to us.
Have a great summer. Tks again. Joop
I'm using the renogy dcdc with solar charger and have noticed a 15% decline in milage. Is this considered normal?
I am assuming that you are referring to your average miles per gallon (MPG). There are a lot of factors which can contribute to a decrease in MPG, including weight of the trailer, terrain, wind and even humidity. I notice that even with a lower grade fuel, we get better MPG in the west simply because we are pushing through less humidity. That being said, we want to make sure that you're not over taxing your alternator. Do you have this connected appropriately to the starting battery?
I thought I saw another u-Tube on installation and they ran a wire straight from the alternator to the DC-DC charger then out the charger to the RV' battery. It was fused as well. Is that not an acceptable method?
Well, the Engineers at Renogy recommended that we connect to the starting battery, rather than the alternator. The diagrams I've seen concur with that as well.
@@FreedomInACan Thank You. I did go back and look at Renogy's diagram. Although I did see two others go direct with fusing. Since you & Renogy are going off the "hot" side of the battery I'm not sure what the advantage / dis-advantage is; but I'll still go with yours and Renogy's wiring plan.
Are you saying there is a voltage drop from the towing vehicle to the RV Battery? The 'battery charger" will boost the voltage....? No chance the alternator will burn out due to the extra load? Some vehicles have an option for an extra alternator. Think solar or extra generator.
Yes, that's what we're saying. The DC to DC charger will boost the voltage coming from the starting battery to the house/ service batteries. Yes, some vehicles do have extra alternators which charge the house / service batteries. This is another option. Renogy recommends that you connect the DC to DC charger to the starting battery rather than the alternator. There is also a dual input charger which accepts a starting battery charge in addition to a solar array charge - perfect for vans and Class b & c RVs.
If you wire with separate anderson cable, could a lithium battery still draw too much over the 7way since it's not limited by the DC-to-DC anymore?
If I understand your question correctly, if you go with the Anderson connectors, you won't need to mess with the 7- way. It's an either or situation. The Anderson connectors still connect to the DC to DC charger, but create an easy quick connect / disconnect in between the DC to DC charger on the vehicle and the house battery bank on the trailer. Of course this means you'll need two sets of cables, one for the house battery and one for the charger. I hope this answers your question.
@@FreedomInACan I'm looking at the DC to DC charger to protect my alternator from a lithium drawing way too many amps and I thought if there was still a path through the 7-way wire with no dc-dc it would still try to draw through that in addition to the Anderson cables
@@cc-hc1dr The lithium iron phosphate battery shouldn't "draw" more than it is given through the charger. If you trickle charge it through the 7-way, without the DC to DC charger, it won't adequately charge. But with the DC to DC charger, you do get a boost, as well as appropriate LiFePo charging parameters. Since the charger acts as a charge controller it protects both the starting battery as well as the house battery. If you connect the DC to DC charger as we did in the video, you will get a small voltage drop through the pin. That was a "lesson learned" on our part. This is why we recommend connecting via Anderson connectors, instead of going through the 7-way. I hope this helps.
Is this possible using if I don’t have the 7-way connector? Mine is only the factory one which i think is a 4-way? …no backup lights etc. Or do I have to change to a 7-way towing plug? If so, is that hard to do? Thank you! Art
Hi Art, you do not have to switch to a 7-way connection. In fact, it would be better if you didn't, because there seems to be a slight drop in the pin connection. We would recommend using Anderson quick connect cables between the DC to DC and the battery bank. These will allow you to regularly connect and disconnect your charging cables just like you would the 4-way, when you take the trailer off your tow vehicle. We used the 7-way in this video because we were trying to avoid another set of cables, but it turns out that it would have been better to do it that way. You can get the Anderson cables from the Renogy website, see link in video description and use our discount code "canlife" for 10% off.
Well it looks like I do have a 7 spade connector out the end of my 2006!Lincoln Navigator. However, I think I will need to install/run thicker wiring (4 gauge) since it’s going to be over 15ft. fr the starter battery to the Renogy dc to dc dual charger which will be mounted in my cargo trailer According to the Renogy, support ppl. Please correct me if I’m (they’re)?wrong? Makes sense though. Right? Thanks!
@@artest7 That sounds right. We would recommend bypassing the 7-pin, and just connecting using the Anderson connectors. Best of luck with the install!
Anyone know now any manufacturers that make 7-way plugs and cables that have the appropriate wire gauges so it's not necessary to run a seperate battery cable? Most have black and white wires that are only 12 gauge or 10 max. Should be more like 8 gauge.
That sure would simplify things for a lot of people.
I'm missing something. It boosts the voltage from 14.01 to 14.47? Not even 1/2 a volt?
Hi James, thanks for the question. Here's the thing about charging voltage that might have not been very clear in the video. The voltage of any battery charger will match the battery bank, and at that point in the video we didn't even have the battery connected to the charger. Different battery types need different voltages based upon their chemistry, but the bottom line is that the voltage will only read slightly higher than the battery voltage status. The important thing with this DC to DC charger is charging current, in amperage (Amps). In this video we connected the charger output through the 7-way trailer connector, we learned later that this really wasn't the best way to do this because of the small pin connector (and I amended the description to indicate this). Through the 7-way, we were only getting between 3-7 Amps, hardly better than the trickle charger. But when we connected the charger directly through to the battery using a quick disconnect (Anderson Connectors), we got an unwavering 20A - which is the output limit of the DC to DC charger. This quickly charges the battery bank replacing up to 20Ah in one hour of driving. I hope this helps.
@@FreedomInACan Electrical is my weak suit. That helps very much. Thank you.
nice job on the video. the only comment i have is related to the 7 pin wiring connection. is the wire in the 7 pin connector large enough to handle 20A for several hours. i dont know what the guage is either on the truck end ot the trailer end
Great thought here. We commented on this issue in the video description, after the install we discovered that in fact the 7-pin wasn't big enough to carry the 20A. Nothing bad happened, except it just didn't charge as expected. We installed a 50A Anderson connector using 8awg wire to either side of the trailer connection, and left the 7-pin connected as well. It works brilliantly! I hope this helps you. We did a similar install in this video, which shows all the steps with that Anderson connection. th-cam.com/video/IsRrIKzWpFo/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps.
If you choose to buy with Renogy, use our custom link to save 10% renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY be sure to use our, CANLIFE promo code at checkout. Let us know if you have any further questions.
@@FreedomInACan i will likely be using renogy, 100ah battery and the dc to dc charger. will my existing ac to dc converter in my trailer run the dc to dc charger? i will be dealing with renogy canada, i wonder if your discount code works here too!
@@stevem268 Great, and yes, our discount link and promo code works in Canada! If you are getting a 100ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery, you need to make sure that the traditional AC to DC Converter in your trailer is compatible with LFP battery types, it should say in the manual. The DC to DC charger will be connected straight to the battery from your vehicle starting battery via the Anderson connections, and should not be connected to the converter in any way. You can see how we installed a 60A DC to DC charger on a trailer, and connected to Anderson to the truck in this video starting at 8:40. th-cam.com/video/dVD1oRIgBQc/w-d-xo.html
The rest of that video is the Renogy REGO installation which covers solar charge controller, DC to DC, and Inverter Charger, which in this case takes over the job that the converter did so we disconnected it altogether. Fire away with any more questions.
@@FreedomInACan thanks so much for the help, you are much more responsive than renogy! i hope they are compensating you in some way!
@@stevem268 we are affiliates so if you use our link, we get a small commission. We also write blogs and do other events for which we are compensated. But, they get thousands of calls a day we get a few a week! 😂. Seriously though we love helping folks go solar.
You glossed over the part where this can also be a
solar charge controller. Is there more info on this?
Sure thing, here's a video with our installation of the Dual Input DC to DC charger. th-cam.com/video/ur7gKRKp7aY/w-d-xo.html
Also this blog. www.renogy.com/blog/so-many-dc-to-dc-charger-options-so-little-timewhich-one-is-best-for-your-system/
And what voltage do we stop charging our batteries?
First off, if you've set up your charge controller or DC to DC Battery Charger to match the specific battery type that you have it will handle all the charging automatically. The specific voltage depends upon the type of battery that you have, 12v flooded lead acid are typically full between 12.4V and 12.7V, but 12V Lithium Iron Phosphate are full at 14.4V. Send us an email at freedominacan1957@gmail.com and we will send you a helpful chart. Thanks!
Which one should I get for a 95 amp alternator - the 20 amp or 40?
The size of the DC to DC charger has more to do with the size of your battery bank in your RV or trailer, than the alternator. Renogy recommends connecting the charger to the starting battery, not the alternator directly. How many amp hours is your battery bank?
@@FreedomInACan When idling, you can pull too much from the alternator and burn it up. I have 400 amp hours of agm batteries.
@@jrr___7902 With that size battery bank I would go with the 40 amp version. I think you will be pleased with how well and quickly it charges everything up. Good luck with your install!
BTW, there is a Black Friday Sale going in through Monday! Check it out.
shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1659912&u=2489284&m=96785&urllink=&afftrack=
@@jrr___7902 Just looked at the sale site at it appears that the 40amp is not a part of the sale, but you can still get 10% off by using our affiliate link and promo code "canlife" at checkout. shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1529919&u=2489284&m=96785&urllink=&afftrack=
Or alternatively, you could go with the 50amp dual input, which is on sale, if you want to plug in solar panels.
OK, I've ordered a 20A DC to DC charger and will install it in my Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 4wd for use with a LiFePO4 battery: both will be installed in the back part of the vehicle. I'll use this to run a fridge. I also want to remove the battery from the vehicle when setting up camp for a longer stay somewhere so I'd have the battery and fridge at camp. I sent in a technical request to Renogy which appeared to come back from their local agent/distributor in Hong Kong (I'm in Australia). They advised that it might burn out the charger if I disconnect the fridge battery from the DC to DC charger while the charger is still connected to the vehicle's engine battery. This doesn't make sense to me. If it can be used to charge a battery in a trailer then it would be disconnected from the battery in the trailer every time the trailer was unhitched and parked somewhere. Can anyone confirm that it's fine to leave the DC to DC charger (20A model without solar) connected to my vehicle battery regardless of whether the secondary 'house' battery is connected or not?
This is a great question. I think the confusion might be between the Dual input DC to DC and the regular DC to DC charger. Because, our parents certainly leave the DC to DC charger connected to the starting battery and haven't had a problem. With solar controllers like the Dual Input DC to DC you should never disconnect the battery without first disconnecting the charging inputs, solar or engine. But we're gonna run this on by our engineer friend at Renogy and we'll let you know what they say.
@@FreedomInACan Thank you Shari. I'd greatly appreciate clearing this up. To be clear, the unit I've ordered is the single input 20A DC to DC charger, *not* the dual input (solar and starter battery).
@@glennp9750 Hi Glen, just heard back from our contact and he says there shouldn't be any problem with disconnecting the battery from the charger. You just want to be sure that you've shut off the engine first, which is kind of a a no brainer but just to be sure. Best of luck! And send photos of your rig / set up!
Thanks again Shari. That makes sense. I appreciate your help with this. One more thing you or another reader may be able to help with: I'm using the charger to charge a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery (LiFePO4). On page 17 of the manual on the website under "Setting Lithium", it has two tables for different "Lithium Voltage" and corresponding DIP switch settings. No problem with that except that it's not made clear anywhere whether "Lithium Voltage" refers to the nominal/operation voltage of the battery or some other voltage like the recommended charging voltage, maximum charging voltage or some other voltage specification for the battery. I assume it is for the nominal/operation voltage but would like to be sure to avoid damage to the charger or battery.
@@glennp9750 What is the type of battery that you have and what is its charging parameters? As I read the chart on page 17, I think that SW3 & 4 set the low end and SW 1 & 2 set the upper end.
I usually flop this setup around so that my starting batteries in my coach stay charged from my inverter while I'm parked at home or out camping.
Thanks for the comment!
You should never use the frame of vehicle for the neutral 12 volts of the system. This will cause frame corrosion. On my vehicle, i ran a 3 wire 8 gauge wire. From front to back. Good for about 40 amps. Positive 12 volts, negative 12 volts, and trailer brake control. I also ran a 3 -14 extension wire. This 3-14 wire is hooked to my vehicle 120Volt inverter. Then i have a separate 120 volt plug at the trailer. On the trailer i have a 1000 watt battery charger 120 volt to 12 volt at about 50 amps. There is extra power to run my compressor fridge. I just find these dc to dc battery chargers have too much voltage drop on the vehicle wires. Because from the equation p=i^2*r.
Great advice, thanks! On all of our subsequent projects we have grounded back to the negative terminal or common ground on the starting battery. Good ideas here!
I'm missing something. I would think most people would have Solar on their Trailer not on their vehicle. So how would this work to charge from Solar and the vehicle while driving?
DC to DC chargers can be put in the tow vehicle or the trailer. These devices take the trickle charge from the alternator while you are driving, pump it up, and send it to whatever battery bank you choose. They come in two different styles (standard and dual input) -- and can be incorporated with solar in a variety of ways, making them very versatile, especially when the weather isn't cooperating.
This video shows a 20A standard version. He uses it to augment the SOC on his trailer battery bank while driving between campsites, then uses a portable solar suitcase while camping.
Alternatively, here's an example of a 30A dual input version with a little hack we added recently. We use ours in a couple of different ways to charge two different battery banks, depending on what needs to be charged at the time. th-cam.com/video/AMFJmfSLJ0I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fA_vV62hVCyIGV-q
And, here's the step-by-step installation of the dual input version from a few years ago: th-cam.com/video/ur7gKRKp7aY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ByGLxHgIs5HeP2ee
Finally, here's an example of a standard 60A REGO DC to DC charger installed in the trailer: th-cam.com/video/dVD1oRIgBQc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6WXt2oAPNVHBb0mk
as well as the wiring installation on the truck: th-cam.com/video/IsRrIKzWpFo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kS0MmNHzXefl6s7e
Appropriately sized Anderson connectors between the truck and trailer are your best bet!
Hope this helps clear things up!
Use our link renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code CANLIFE to save 10% on Renogy products.
@@FreedomInACan super helpful thank you!
@milesb4231 Glad to help, holler back with any further questions.
A few mistakes here.
The wiring color is wrong. In cars we use 12v positive and negative dc; not hot and neutral like with ac power. There is no neutral or hot wire. The correct colors are red for positive and black for ground.
For wiring you should use high strand count stranded car audio or welding cable. Stranded 120V wire is not flexible enough to go around bends in a car and the insulation is very thin. 120V wire was not designed to deal with potential abrasion issues from a moving vehicle.
For that length of a run I would have also recommended going to 4AWG due to potential voltage drop and dc resistance issues.
Thanks for the feedback, these are good recommendations. But don't you think that 4awg is a little overkill on a 20a charger with a run of around 12 feet?
I have 2 100ah deep cycle batteries in my minivan build to power lights, fridge etc. The batteries drop to 60-70% throughout the night. In the summer, my 100w solar panel tops the batteries off by noon everyday and remains in the 90+% all day.
Cloudy days and/or in winter my panel wont top the batteries off. So I am adding a Victron Energy Orion-Tr IP43 12/12-Volt 9 amp 110-Watt DC-DC Converter, Isolated- that I got for free. Since my solar is only 100w at best.
I want to power it off my rear cigarette lighter plug 20 amp (shuts off with ignition) since the plug is right there in the back of my van by the rv batteries. Will this work or do I have to connect it directly to my van battery (which will be a pain to do)?
I think that you will need to install it the more painful way, and connect it to the starting battery. Sorry, but I think you will have fewer issues down the road.
Probably cheaper to have a portable 20amp battery charger to plug in when you get to your rv Park utilizing shore power. The shore power thru your controller will be too slow so the stand alone portable charger (20amps) would be much faster.
All well and good, if you're going back to shore power. The point here is to not go to the RV park, enjoy the 10s of thousands of other camping options that don't offer hook ups. From State & Local campgrounds, National Park Camp sites, to boondocking in BLM or USFS land, the possibilities are endless. The DC to DC charger will help your battery bank get back up and running after a night of off-grid camping. And if you're worried about money, the RV park isn't the way to go, haha.
I hate to be a bore , but the airflow in that trunk is non existent , those things get hot hot hot , and that trunk will get hot , the fans will be recirculating warm air , and it’ll just keep getting hotter .
I am currently installing a 40a version , I’m thinking of installing computer fans , with filters .
Just a thought
Thanks for the comment. This has been working well for 3.5 years with no issues! Have you had problems with yours?
@@FreedomInACan
In the past yes
Renogy makes a great product! We have the MPPT 30A dual input version in our truck and it's been a total game changer. Runs our 12V fridge full-time and charges our 200Ah battery bank in our camper as well. 3 years with zero issues! We love it!
Thanks for the input, more airflow is always better than less for sure.
Positive is the BLACK wire??? What stadard are you following?
DC wiring, Red Positive, Black Negative. It is not the same as AC wiring, or even automotive wiring. When dealing strictly with DC wiring, this is the standard. Thanks.
In case you are confused. www.creativesafetysupply.com/articles/wire-color-codes/
a wire cutter is not a good crimp tool!
You are so right, that's why we went over the use of a crimper in the tool section of the video. Thanks for the feedback though!
Please stay away from electrical work. That was hard to watch... The T-Tap on the main ground made me cringe...
Thanks for the feedback. We definitely would do it differently if we did it again. We've learned so much since then by doing it ourselves, making mistakes and fixing them. You probably didn't look into the description, but in the update from a few years ago, I describe how we bypassed the 7-pin and hard wired the DC to DC through an Anderson connector. It works great now! Thanks again!
If you are seeking to decide between a standard or dual input DC to DC charger, as well as how to size it appropriately for your system, this article will walk you through it: www.renogy.com/blog/so-many-dc-to-dc-charger-options-so-little-timewhich-one-is-best-for-your-system/
what reason would you have to not install the DC-DC inside the trailer after the 7 way pin? does it not provide enough current?
People do this all the time, for sure. Especially when using the Dual Input, that way the solar panels on the roof of the RV can also be part of the solution. However, we still wouldn't recommend taking the charging current through the 7-pin. By using Anderson connectors, or similar brand, you get a reliable and robust charge from the vehicle to the trailer. To decide what DC to DC charger is right for you, check out this article. renogy.sjv.io/MXokzo
Best!