Your video helped tremendously. I had just bought a 1510.... Previous owner neglected to tell me the brakes were none existent. Found that out when i tried loading it on the trailer. I'll definitely try the adjustments first.... But at least i know what I'm getting into, if i do have to go further. Yours was the ONLY video I've found that covers brakes.
It’s helping me a lot! I have a 1900. Left rear wheel is jammed. I wasn’t sure where to look for break and how it was set. Now I know how to check! Thank for your video!
Thanks! Wondered what was behind the secret door (cover) on the brakes and plan to tackle this on my 1210. But on my 1210, the linkage on both sides was already fully adjusted to its max to where the threaded rod interferes with the linkage if I were to go any tighter. However the drum and the pads have plenty of meat left of them. So I trimmed 1/2" off of the right-hand-threaded end to create some clearance. Also my brake covers had no gasket. So I used some RTV to seal them up. Had a lot of rust dust in the drums and shoe assemblies. And I had to lubricate the lever bushings.
Sadly, doesn't seem like it was all that well cared for. Looks like you are doing a good job. Good news is those tractors are little tanks and when you do get everything done right on it you'll get years of service from that machine. God Bless!
@@rushedscheduledfun3963 I didn't have to remove the tire or the fender wall. The break assembly came out very easily. I wanted to make a video, but at 98⁰ out, it was nearly impossible lol
If these tractors set up for a while the condensation builds up in the brake hub area and rust forms behind the pad and the glue fails on today's aftermarket versions. Clean and fresh hydraulic fluid helps delay this issue which is common. New pads are much thicker than the ones you're working with.
Great video but please be careful. The original brake parts of the 1970s and 80s Ford tractors have asbestos (per the parts manual) and the New Holland site where you can check the all the parts diagrams and lists for the Ford tractors and you should be using minimum an N95 mask and gloves and vacuum everything with an HEPA filter before replacing the parts. Cheers.
Your video helped tremendously. I had just bought a 1510.... Previous owner neglected to tell me the brakes were none existent. Found that out when i tried loading it on the trailer. I'll definitely try the adjustments first.... But at least i know what I'm getting into, if i do have to go further. Yours was the ONLY video I've found that covers brakes.
Thanks for the information, glad it helped
You helped me and my 1715, plenty. Thanks, my friend.
Glad to help
It’s helping me a lot! I have a 1900. Left rear wheel is jammed. I wasn’t sure where to look for break and how it was set. Now I know how to check!
Thank for your video!
So it was just a linkage adjustment.
Glad I watched. Just picked up a 1600.
Nice to just see for sure what's inside before I have to do it. I got a 79, 1600 with just 800 hrs on it.
Good luck
I am about to do another clutch on a Ford 1910.
Thanks! Wondered what was behind the secret door (cover) on the brakes and plan to tackle this on my 1210.
But on my 1210, the linkage on both sides was already fully adjusted to its max to where the threaded rod interferes with the linkage if I were to go any tighter. However the drum and the pads have plenty of meat left of them. So I trimmed 1/2" off of the right-hand-threaded end to create some clearance.
Also my brake covers had no gasket. So I used some RTV to seal them up. Had a lot of rust dust in the drums and shoe assemblies. And I had to lubricate the lever bushings.
Sadly, doesn't seem like it was all that well cared for. Looks like you are doing a good job. Good news is those tractors are little tanks and when you do get everything done right on it you'll get years of service from that machine. God Bless!
Thanks. But since the video I have moved on from it. Someone I know was able to get more use out of it
Thank you for this video.
Really appreciate it. I have the 1600 with the same issue on the left side.
I'm glad it helped you
@@rushedscheduledfun3963
I didn't have to remove the tire or the fender wall. The break assembly came out very easily.
I wanted to make a video, but at 98⁰ out, it was nearly impossible lol
Thank you for sharing answered a LOT of questions!! Good Job!
Thanks for the video....all I needed was to adjust the linkage on my 1900.
Happy to help.
We were given a Ford 1700 and have the same problem. Might try the adjustment shaft first. P.S. Tractor is in central NSW Australia :)
Where is NSW? Thanks for watching
@@rushedscheduledfun3963 NSW = New South Wales - Australia. Bathurst to be precise (Google it ;)
I appreciate.the video just.learning bout.my tractor.
If these tractors set up for a while the condensation builds up in the brake hub area and rust forms behind the pad and the glue fails on today's aftermarket versions.
Clean and fresh hydraulic fluid helps delay this issue which is common.
New pads are much thicker than the ones you're working with.
Great video but please be careful. The original brake parts of the 1970s and 80s Ford tractors have asbestos (per the parts manual) and the New Holland site where you can check the all the parts diagrams and lists for the Ford tractors and you should be using minimum an N95 mask and gloves and vacuum everything with an HEPA filter before replacing the parts. Cheers.
In fact you can do this without removing the wheels and mudguards, as I just did on a 1910. Got the shoes re-lined for £28 UK
So the hidráulic and transmission fluid is the same
Looking for a rear axle seal repair for the Ford 1710 and 1910
Hope you can find it. Probably need to part number off a diagram to make sure its the correct seal.