Back in the day the kamikaze mod had small jigs that would precisely say where to grind, (drill) I think you could probably achieve the same thing with a 3D printed jig using the the shield and those small components above as a guide 🤔
Honestly a jig wouldn't really help here as the hard part isn't where to grind, just how deep. Location doesn't have to be hyper-accurate, hence we can scrape down a square in the general area of the dat0 through 2 layers, and then the 3 layer is easy to see dat0 with some alcohol on it.
Thank you for this updated guideline. Pretty well done with introducing which material you are using. What I can say is that it looks easier than it is 😁
Remember the Kamikaze method on the Xbox 360 Liteon DVD Drives? Edit: Yep, he talks about it. I still have the template lying around. I remember using a soldering iron to Kamikaze. Such fun
i found this very fascinating,all of this knowledge,hardwork,just to have freedom on our switch like doing OC,download tons of games for free,customize,modding etc..kudos👍👍 for those expert on doing the hardware section,without you guys i can't play 60fps on my oled switch😅..have a great day and god bless you all😇
i have been using "Model Scriber" instead of the grinder pen. i did have to sand and sharpen it because the edge was jigit and pitted but once i got it sharp it been doing a great job.
Just amazing! I have the equipment and I feel like I have the skill but its intimidating plus I’ve never had an issue with the dat0 adapters. Will have to find a dead board to practice on
I'm usually the "no risk no fun" kinda guy when it comes to modding, soldering or repairing stuff, but this is one mod I'd never attempt to do on a working system without prior practice.
Thanks for the video! This allowed me to expose the DAT0 point without any problems. And I saw in another video that you don't have to grab the B point on the back. To the left of the speaker jack (for the right speaker) there is a golden triangle on the silk screen and you can use the via above it. Can you please check this with the program (XXZ) for the board overview?
@@rockapartieI've used the gold full sized one and the little black corner only adaptor. I've had my rumble turned off for some time now, so doubt that is an influence.
@@_MJ07_ Thanks for the reply. Mine's still working fine (knock on wood), but every time I have to reboot, I'm always like: "Please work, please work!", and that's slowly getting on my nerves. 🙃
Thank you for these wonderful instructions, my friend. I have a question. What is the difference between ma ant d1 and d2? Between ma ant d2 it is easier and faster to change the heads. Thank you.
Man, what a sensational video, best explanation of the method. where can I find these Oled boardviewer and other board models, which program are you using?
Why would a reball start cracking over time? I've been reballing severeal OLED's with leaded solder balls, placing a 0.1mm wire on the DAT0 point, and have not had any failures yet. Reballing IC's have been done since the dawn of man, and I've never heard of them cracking?
i did reball other consoles too and never had any issue, but this one , i feel a bit different. even a very tough guy here on my country said, the solder ball could potentially get crack someday.
@@sthetixofficial reball with leaded solder (wick away the unleaded solder) and there is no issue. Calling it "unreliable" is simply misleading - any method is unreliable if you execute it badly. People assume you know what you are talking about so I would suggest thinking twice before claiming things you aren't certain about
@@antonwestin5464There is also the heat issue. Outside of how hard it is to solder on such a small spot (for me, not you pros), this seems like a great method that doesn't bother the chip.
@@sthetixofficial After plenty of research, I followed your guide and successfully performed the kamikaze for the first time yesterday. Thank you for all your work in the modding scene and active support, I couldn't have done it without your clear guidance.
@@sthetixofficial alright! Will there be any content about the trinket m0 with fusee suite for unpatched v1 switches? The newer versions of the x86 from aliexpress don't have flashing options and mine also corrupted my sd card once i tried to move files over. The general quality of these chips became pretty lackluster. The trinket works flawlessly
I did a lot of kamikazes on Liteons, but it was a much easier matter. here the difficulty is not so much the exposure of the DAT0 but welding it correctly without touching the layers, it reminds me of the film Maverick where he had to hit the mark with a shot in the crater 🤣
the 40 awg teflon wire threw me. i ordered 36 awg as for all wiring. is this only for the dat0.or is the 40 awg now suitable for all wiring? i used old micro quadcopter wires they gotta be 34 or 36 however i could not replace the shield after installing the dat0 adapter through the corner as the wire shield was to thick had to notch it a bit. just ordered 36 awg. i can always cut a few strands for this method. if 36 awg is still recommended for all other wiring.? anyways thank you for all that you do!!!!
36 is still ok. I used 40 because the 3rd layer is deeper than the surface and I need flexibility to access that area, and I found it it easier using the awg40
logically you need to observe the track and rebuild the track. if you cannot do it, you might need to buy another console and ask other people to do the kamikaze
Hi dear, it would be nice to see the measurements with a millimeter close, so it would be much easier not to make mistakes with another very close point... You have a small millimeter to see the measurements from the dat0 point to the 4.7k resistor and also up vertically towards the metal shell? Hello dear, good luck 👍🏻🔝🔝🔝
Hi dear, I didn't mean for you, we know how to do it, but those who don't know how to do it if they had exact measurements on that point, they couldn't at least make a mistake with a closer point, I use a professional mini dentist drill, a very expensive kit, because the DM 1, the DM 2, or other Chinese ones, can break or vibrate too much, as I am an old technician, I only say this because I don't make videos here, but I would like you, who are very good at many things, to be the first to show that too, this is not a criticism, of course my friend, it's just a piece of advice in my simple opinion to be more complete in the explanation, which in any case I personally consider equally fantastic as you did this Kamikaze.... Continue like this , for many of us you always remain one of the best, it's not a compliment, it's what I think, but many people think the way I think it, and we both know this well... 😉 Warm greetings from HiTechMaster Italia. Hi Sthetix 👍🏻🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝
@hitechmaster69 no bro, you need to try it and follow the video or watch the previous kamikaze method.. as for me, I didn't measure it, and I don't see any reason to measure it for public too
@@sthetixofficial Yes, in fact, what I said was in fact just my idea, I would have liked to see you do it, the rest doesn't matter... Hello dear, keep going, you always learn new things in life, we just have to try to always improve... The rest is history... 😉👍🏻🔝🔝🔝
Heh just bought a console from you, I tried but could not do it well, I preformed the kamakazi correctly and pretty good, but soldering to it was hard and I blue that resistor right next to it.
Really nice method, i have done similar repairs using an scalpel #11, with the mini dremel tool i feel like im going to mess it up. btw, is this method only viable on the OLED? or the 1.1 and lite have points too?
Great video again by the modding KING. Does the size of the EMUMMC matter when I partition it in Hekate ? Lets say I wanna use a fresh microSD card on my modded OLED and wanna set it up from scratch. Can I set up the EMUMMC as low as possible or does it need a minimum size ?
Well, could you show a little more of the two lines, like the data 0 and the one next to it, I received a switch with both lines short, I managed to find them, but this is not the point to communicate them.
Grinding is easy for me, the hardest part to me is tinning the dat0 point 😭, any tips for me? I have been using a low melt soldering paste, but tinning that point is so hard, my iron temperature is 300°c
same guide, V1 unpatched use th-cam.com/video/_v-bGPtUXOk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HO6zX3zxtMGvWgNL and later useth-cam.com/video/up_sjzKHFeU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2qp2hRmoQfW51433 for both consoles
shouldn't you add a thin piece of copper wire or at least tin the 1st and the 2nd layer since you you significantly reduced the trace width for the 1st and 2nd layer via grinding, it might become a faliure point.
i am sorry i dont understand what you mean about the copper wire. we dont need it as they are all ground signals. I opened the "square" to make the dat0 point more visible later.
@@sthetixofficial i mean that you made the ground trace significantly thinner by grinding it, after you soldered the dat0 wire it would have been a good idea to add a small piece of wire to the ground trace, or to tin it to strengthen it a bit.
Because Installers not knowing how to properly secure dat 0 without heat and emmc chips breaking because of it , this method was created but dat 0 is reliable if you know how to install it properly not need to damage the board. more than 2 years installing dat 0 with no heat and never failing.
The most important man by far for us. thank you for everything
you are welcome
Back in the day the kamikaze mod had small jigs that would precisely say where to grind, (drill) I think you could probably achieve the same thing with a 3D printed jig using the the shield and those small components above as a guide 🤔
Honestly a jig wouldn't really help here as the hard part isn't where to grind, just how deep.
Location doesn't have to be hyper-accurate, hence we can scrape down a square in the general area of the dat0 through 2 layers, and then the 3 layer is easy to see dat0 with some alcohol on it.
@thecyberquake618 Yeah if you have experience with scraping u can get by with a razor blade.
Thank you for this updated guideline. Pretty well done with introducing which material you are using. What I can say is that it looks easier than it is 😁
Remember the Kamikaze method on the Xbox 360 Liteon DVD Drives?
Edit: Yep, he talks about it. I still have the template lying around. I remember using a soldering iron to Kamikaze. Such fun
Although my dat0 connection has been solid for a long time, I'm certainly going to be updating the install using this method! Thank you!
Never change a running system!
@@rockapartie I agree, even though mine is using the Kamikaze
Once again, amazing work.
thank you
You make it look so easy. 💯
I'm gonna buy myself a grinding pen and practice a lot on dead hard drive boards. Thanks as always Sthetix!
The Goat
i found this very fascinating,all of this knowledge,hardwork,just to have freedom on our switch like doing OC,download tons of games for free,customize,modding etc..kudos👍👍 for those expert on doing the hardware section,without you guys i can't play 60fps on my oled switch😅..have a great day and god bless you all😇
This is insane! You’re the best, Sthethix! I’ll leave this one to you. 😅
Thank you
You do a wonderful job 👍🏻👍🏻
thank you
Great tutorial, i could't connect my D0 with adapter, co i did Kamikaze like you, Thank You for great tutorial!
i have been using "Model Scriber" instead of the grinder pen. i did have to sand and sharpen it because the edge was jigit and pitted but once i got it sharp it been doing a great job.
I remember doing the kamikaze on the LiteOn on the Xbox 360 just drilling very slowly. I had a little jig and template to make a little easier.
Gilak.. rapi bener kek ada bingkai di tiap layer nya.. 😅
Just amazing! I have the equipment and I feel like I have the skill but its intimidating plus I’ve never had an issue with the dat0 adapters. Will have to find a dead board to practice on
You could try on other dead boards like v1 v2 or Lite, to reach 3rd layer
I'm usually the "no risk no fun" kinda guy when it comes to modding, soldering or repairing stuff, but this is one mod I'd never attempt to do on a working system without prior practice.
Master piece 👏👏👏
just amazing, im goona do it and will succeed!!!!
excelent video and explanation ! thanks
feels like you need nerves of steel to do this method
Una instalación limpia y muy genial 👌
Thanks for the video! This allowed me to expose the DAT0 point without any problems.
And I saw in another video that you don't have to grab the B point on the back. To the left of the speaker jack (for the right speaker) there is a golden triangle on the silk screen and you can use the via above it. Can you please check this with the program (XXZ) for the board overview?
that B point is correct (the top side) and it is directly connected to the back side
I think I'm going to try this. I've had to adjust my dat0 adaptor so many times.
Which adapter did you use? And did you play games featuring a lot of rumble in handheld mode?
@@rockapartieI've used the gold full sized one and the little black corner only adaptor. I've had my rumble turned off for some time now, so doubt that is an influence.
@@_MJ07_ Thanks for the reply. Mine's still working fine (knock on wood), but every time I have to reboot, I'm always like: "Please work, please work!", and that's slowly getting on my nerves. 🙃
Thank you for these wonderful instructions, my friend. I have a question. What is the difference between ma ant d1 and d2? Between ma ant d2 it is easier and faster to change the heads. Thank you.
D2 has no battery inside.
Man, what a sensational video, best explanation of the method. where can I find these Oled boardviewer and other board models, which program are you using?
global.wmdang.com/index/index/introduce/inviter/320267.html
Thank you. you can open that link
@@sthetixofficial thank you so much👏🏻😍
Thx for the information
you are welcome
Why would a reball start cracking over time? I've been reballing severeal OLED's with leaded solder balls, placing a 0.1mm wire on the DAT0 point, and have not had any failures yet. Reballing IC's have been done since the dawn of man, and I've never heard of them cracking?
i did reball other consoles too and never had any issue, but this one , i feel a bit different. even a very tough guy here on my country said, the solder ball could potentially get crack someday.
@@sthetixofficial reball with leaded solder (wick away the unleaded solder) and there is no issue. Calling it "unreliable" is simply misleading - any method is unreliable if you execute it badly. People assume you know what you are talking about so I would suggest thinking twice before claiming things you aren't certain about
@@antonwestin5464There is also the heat issue. Outside of how hard it is to solder on such a small spot (for me, not you pros), this seems like a great method that doesn't bother the chip.
Wonderful video you are the best. Where you can find grinder head? It's possible to share some link?
it is included inside the ma-ant d1
@@sthetixofficial ok but if you want to buy another One, where you can find It?
@GiuseppeFregiato this www.diyfixtool.com/products/maant-d1-intelligent-usb-grinding-pen-charging-engraving-pen?variant=44366834729189
@@sthetixofficial great thanks
Thank you for your effort. The question is, which is better, copper-plated or aluminum-coated wire for performance?
Beautiful job
Is there any specific reason why your initial grinding 'square' is bigger than your last tutorial? And many thanks for the update
for me, is just a "flavor", to make the grinding easier
@@sthetixofficial After plenty of research, I followed your guide and successfully performed the kamikaze for the first time yesterday. Thank you for all your work in the modding scene and active support, I couldn't have done it without your clear guidance.
congratulations, you have acquired a new skill now
Great video! Will there be a separate video about the v6s chip featuring the flashing via the usb connector in the future?
there won't be a thing because flashing via the usb connector has a bug, and I don't recommend connecting the d+ d- and the vbus
@@sthetixofficial alright! Will there be any content about the trinket m0 with fusee suite for unpatched v1 switches? The newer versions of the x86 from aliexpress don't have flashing options and mine also corrupted my sd card once i tried to move files over. The general quality of these chips became pretty lackluster.
The trinket works flawlessly
@semihdemir6104 I don't have trinkets, so I cannot guarantee I will make that video. mine using the older rcmx86 and it is flawless
13:37 why do you use solder paste? Can you not solder the wire directly on the pad?
too big., cannot.
Hey Mr stethix My new 3ds xl top screen won't work for normal applications as well as the home screen. But does work for the cfw apps. What do I do?
please ask at discord.gg/MWxPgEp
Curious, is this the method you use for each install now? I'm a chip installer and tempted to Switch to this method
yes I always do kamikaze for all Oled modding
I did a lot of kamikazes on Liteons, but it was a much easier matter. here the difficulty is not so much the exposure of the DAT0 but welding it correctly without touching the layers, it reminds me of the film Maverick where he had to hit the mark with a shot in the crater 🤣
the 40 awg teflon wire threw me. i ordered 36 awg as for all wiring. is this only for the dat0.or is the 40 awg now suitable for all wiring? i used old micro quadcopter wires they gotta be 34 or 36 however i could not replace the shield after installing the dat0 adapter through the corner as the wire shield was to thick had to notch it a bit. just ordered 36 awg. i can always cut a few strands for this method. if 36 awg is still recommended for all other wiring.? anyways thank you for all that you do!!!!
36 is still ok. I used 40 because the 3rd layer is deeper than the surface and I need flexibility to access that area, and I found it it easier using the awg40
Hi, there is fix for those who blow the 3rd layer completely? if that so, maybe you can do video for that.
logically you need to observe the track and rebuild the track. if you cannot do it, you might need to buy another console and ask other people to do the kamikaze
@@sthetixofficial if grind a bit up there are 2 lines, below nothing, can be bridge that line to the dat0 emmc chip?
Hi dear, it would be nice to see the measurements with a millimeter close, so it would be much easier not to make mistakes with another very close point... You have a small millimeter to see the measurements from the dat0 point to the 4.7k resistor and also up vertically towards the metal shell? Hello dear, good luck 👍🏻🔝🔝🔝
to be honest, I don't measure it because of the experience 😉
Hi dear, I didn't mean for you, we know how to do it, but those who don't know how to do it if they had exact measurements on that point, they couldn't at least make a mistake with a closer point, I use a professional mini dentist drill, a very expensive kit, because the DM 1, the DM 2, or other Chinese ones, can break or vibrate too much, as I am an old technician, I only say this because I don't make videos here, but I would like you, who are very good at many things, to be the first to show that too, this is not a criticism, of course my friend, it's just a piece of advice in my simple opinion to be more complete in the explanation, which in any case I personally consider equally fantastic as you did this Kamikaze.... Continue like this , for many of us you always remain one of the best, it's not a compliment, it's what I think, but many people think the way I think it, and we both know this well... 😉 Warm greetings from HiTechMaster Italia. Hi Sthetix 👍🏻🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝
@hitechmaster69 no bro, you need to try it and follow the video or watch the previous kamikaze method..
as for me, I didn't measure it, and I don't see any reason to measure it for public too
@@sthetixofficial Yes, in fact, what I said was in fact just my idea, I would have liked to see you do it, the rest doesn't matter... Hello dear, keep going, you always learn new things in life, we just have to try to always improve... The rest is history... 😉👍🏻🔝🔝🔝
@hitechmaster69 thank you
Heh just bought a console from you, I tried but could not do it well, I preformed the kamakazi correctly and pretty good, but soldering to it was hard and I blue that resistor right next to it.
you need to replace that resistor
Out of curiosity, why do you opt for solder paste for the dat0?
because the solder wire cannot access that tiny area.
@@sthetixofficial good to know, thank you for the response
The best way for me
Damn bro you got skill
Really nice method, i have done similar repairs using an scalpel #11, with the mini dremel tool i feel like im going to mess it up. btw, is this method only viable on the OLED? or the 1.1 and lite have points too?
it is for the OLED only, as the other variants have exposed solder pad.
Do you think you could use a hot plate to solder the kamakazi data-0 trace?
how? I don't get it. you mean heating the emmc then slowly move the dat0? the thing is you might end up damaging the balls and the lcd socket
I would like know what is the value of the point A resistor
Correct me if I'm wrong but not all versions of OLED motherboards are compatible with the kamikaze dat0 point ?
Wrong, all versions have the same board layout at this area
Mantab gan 👍expert ✅
Great video again by the modding KING. Does the size of the EMUMMC matter when I partition it in Hekate ? Lets say I wanna use a fresh microSD card on my modded OLED and wanna set it up from scratch. Can I set up the EMUMMC as low as possible or does it need a minimum size ?
12GB is ideal but if you want to maximize it, you can slide it to 58GB full
I still use the Latest Dat0 adapter but I never had an issue. Are you saying that eventually it will stop working ?
It's the most frequent issue with modded OLED consoles
Well, could you show a little more of the two lines, like the data 0 and the one next to it, I received a switch with both lines short, I managed to find them, but this is not the point to communicate them.
you need to subscribe to the xzz to find it out
I’m getting purple screen every time I power my system on. What is the issue?
probably your console nand is damaged
Is there anyway to fix the trace if I grinded away the layer you are supposed to solder to?
you need to grind the other part of the motherboard. please watch the boardview section.
@@sthetixofficial the trace is broken as I grinded that layer away, will the console still work?
@user-yk1cw8im4h it wont
What microscope do u recomend? I did whit mine but i cant see what im doing…
I used eakins microscope.
Where can i get the wires you are using
It is on aliexpress.
Which Uv resin are you using?
I bought it locally.
Grinding is easy for me, the hardest part to me is tinning the dat0 point 😭, any tips for me?
I have been using a low melt soldering paste, but tinning that point is so hard, my iron temperature is 300°c
Bit of a late reply but I used hot air instead of an iron with soldering paste. Worked a lot better for me personally
@@imamalox What temperature and airflow? And how long does it melt and stick to the dat0 point?
sorry i watch both your videos but what is the difference between the method for this and your last video?
same concept but different method to secure the wire.
what tutorial is the best to mod a V1 switch and V2? thanks!
same guide, V1 unpatched use th-cam.com/video/_v-bGPtUXOk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HO6zX3zxtMGvWgNL
and later useth-cam.com/video/up_sjzKHFeU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2qp2hRmoQfW51433 for both consoles
I prefer make a reflow with flex nand , but one day I need try this for fun
shouldn't you add a thin piece of copper wire or at least tin the 1st and the 2nd layer since you you significantly reduced the trace width for the 1st and 2nd layer via grinding, it might become a faliure point.
i am sorry i dont understand what you mean about the copper wire. we dont need it as they are all ground signals. I opened the "square" to make the dat0 point more visible later.
@@sthetixofficial i mean that you made the ground trace significantly thinner by grinding it, after you soldered the dat0 wire it would have been a good idea to add a small piece of wire to the ground trace, or to tin it to strengthen it a bit.
@pvim no we don't need it as the whole board is a mass piece of ground signal.
Really good idea,, but risk 2 high for me..
almost 100kk
Because Installers not knowing how to properly secure dat 0 without heat and emmc chips breaking because of it , this method was created but dat 0 is reliable if you know how to install it properly not need to damage the board. more than 2 years installing dat 0 with no heat and never failing.
Any telegram chanal can msg you boss???
no channel.
Thx for video. KAMIKAZE METHOD is still risky.... I think resolder eMMC chip better. IMHO.
Never do it again, its dangerous and 99% destroyable !