My kind of railway modelling ! Not only is it inexpensive, but satisfying when you resurrect a model and get it running again. I found a Dublo Bristol Castle « non runner, spares or repair » this summer. It was filthy too, but came in it’s original plain blue box, which was a little damaged, but some PVA soon fixed that. I think it cost me £30. When it arrived and I took it apart it was just the connection wire between the tender plunger pickups and the motor in the loco that was missing! So an easy fix coupled with a full service was enough to get it running beautifully smoothly again. It didn’t even need a remag or new brushes, just a bit of wire and a spot of solder. The body got a good clean in warm soapy water, I touched up a few minor chips on the cab roof and smoke box and polished off the green copper corrosion on the chimney. She looks as good as new, and runs so fast that I have to use half wave on the Duette to keep her in check! For anyone attempting this for the first time, there are plenty of tutorials on TH-cam. First stop for me after this video would be OO Bill’s channel. Happy restorations ! And yes, always have a 9V battery in your pocket ! You never know when you might need it.
This is real modelling, not just collecting! Well done Jenny! A rivet on the motion of a Lord Nelson came off on the club layout and messed up all the rods! Spares weren’t available from Hornby, so I brought something similar off the bay and re riveted the motion back together! Works like a new model now!!! More of these videos please Jenny and Zoe!! Thanks!
Great video! I’ve got a similar 45xx model from Bachman that doesn’t have a decoder socket. Im wanting to include a sound decoder but have no idea how to hardwire it in this case. Would you have any tips for hardwiring this in? Thanks
Very good. Whenever I have used flux paste it eventually corrodes the wires and I get a green deposit. I suppose I should have cleaned the joints with a fibreglass brush. Does the liquid flux not cause this problem?
I had the same problem. When I've finished the soldering job I clean the joint/area with a Q tip lightly dipped in isopropyl. This removes the flux residue.
Never actually used flux when soldering, but I tend to solder bigger 540 sized motors, so, why use flux? I mean I'm asking, why use flux, I don't know.
Really enjoyed video and found it interesting and informative from someone who is only at the stage of watching and learning I’m glad to have subscribed to your channel looking forward to more from yourself and of course I’ll be watching Zoe’s N gauge set up
I remember my Father used to place a few triang power connectors on my trainset. It stopped interference on the TV 📺, couldn't disturb his Saturday afternoon sport on the telly 😂😂😂😂
Well done on the restoration. Did you think about reconstructing the steps ? I would use scrap plastic bits and a bit of carving/shaping and glue. I'd be more confident doing that than repairing the mechanism.
Hello Nice video, I did buy a Fleischmann model of an electric loco as a non runner with a short motor. When I opened the thing the motor just wasn't wired to the pick ups. The motor was ok. I hard wired an 8 pin socket an put in a decoder. The loco cost me about 35 euro with an added 30 euro for the socket and decoder. Gr. Ron
Informative and simple inspires confidence. Always wondered about removing caps and other circuits. Will approach the trader stands at GETS With a new perspective! Thanks Jenny
It reminds me the Peckett I had attempted to hardwire after I had knacked the 4 pins DCC socket... It's a non-runner now, and I will someday try to turn her back into a running model.
My kind of railway modelling !
Not only is it inexpensive, but satisfying when you resurrect a model and get it running again. I found a Dublo Bristol Castle « non runner, spares or repair » this summer. It was filthy too, but came in it’s original plain blue box, which was a little damaged, but some PVA soon fixed that.
I think it cost me £30. When it arrived and I took it apart it was just the connection wire between the tender plunger pickups and the motor in the loco that was missing! So an easy fix coupled with a full service was enough to get it running beautifully smoothly again. It didn’t even need a remag or new brushes, just a bit of wire and a spot of solder. The body got a good clean in warm soapy water, I touched up a few minor chips on the cab roof and smoke box and polished off the green copper corrosion on the chimney. She looks as good as new, and runs so fast that I have to use half wave on the Duette to keep her in check!
For anyone attempting this for the first time, there are plenty of tutorials on TH-cam. First stop for me after this video would be OO Bill’s channel. Happy restorations !
And yes, always have a 9V battery in your pocket ! You never know when you might need it.
Hi Jenny, great find and repair.
Have you made any videos on Bachmann 31- steam locos with the bulging wheel sets repairs?
Cheers Andy
Great vid jenny! Always enjoy listening to U!
This is real modelling, not just collecting! Well done Jenny!
A rivet on the motion of a Lord Nelson came off on the club layout and messed up all the rods! Spares weren’t available from Hornby, so I brought something similar off the bay and re riveted the motion back together! Works like a new model now!!!
More of these videos please Jenny and Zoe!!
Thanks!
Excellent video Jenni, love to see more of these.
Rgds.......Mike
Excellent informative video from which I learnt some good tips,I would like to see more videos like this.👍😁😁😁🚂
Great video! I’ve got a similar 45xx model from Bachman that doesn’t have a decoder socket. Im wanting to include a sound decoder but have no idea how to hardwire it in this case. Would you have any tips for hardwiring this in? Thanks
It is excellent to see things being fixed. Waste not want not! It would be splendid to see a whole series of videos that do this.
Nice one Jennifer👍
Clever idea with the battery Jenny. Fix it videos are interesting. Thanks for sharing .
Very good. Whenever I have used flux paste it eventually corrodes the wires and I get a green deposit. I suppose I should have cleaned the joints with a fibreglass brush. Does the liquid flux not cause this problem?
I had the same problem. When I've finished the soldering job I clean the joint/area with a Q tip lightly dipped in isopropyl. This removes the flux residue.
Good job, always very satisfying buying a non runner and fixing it up.
hi jenny nice fix and loco im looking forward to meeting you at gets sunday and give you my sticker and keyring i have some for zoe too
Grate video, please do more of these. Much prefer seeing the process without a gimic like cout down timers😂
Very good video jen but what about the steps I heard the driver is still in hospital with broken legs 😅
Nice save.
Never actually used flux when soldering, but I tend to solder bigger 540 sized motors, so, why use flux? I mean I'm asking, why use flux, I don't know.
great vid jen
Really enjoyed video and found it interesting and informative from someone who is only at the stage of watching and learning I’m glad to have subscribed to your channel looking forward to more from yourself and of course I’ll be watching Zoe’s N gauge set up
Nice video! Can I ask the brand of oil/applicator you used on the motor?
Loved it
Very good video, excellent bit of fixing up models1
Those caps can help with reducing AM radio interference, if anyone still really uses those. Nice video!
I remember my Father used to place a few triang power connectors on my trainset. It stopped interference on the TV 📺, couldn't disturb his Saturday afternoon sport on the telly 😂😂😂😂
Well done on the restoration. Did you think about reconstructing the steps ? I would use scrap plastic bits and a bit of carving/shaping and glue. I'd be more confident doing that than repairing the mechanism.
This was a great video, you made the process very simple to follow - please can we have more like this.
Best regards,
Honestly I'd buy these even as siding decor. I'm rubbish at repairs.
Enjoyed that. It's nice to see how easy some models can be easy to fix.
Great video. Good to watch someone working through reviving an engine
Excellent job Jenny.
Hello
Nice video, I did buy a Fleischmann model of an electric loco as a non runner with a short motor. When I opened the thing the motor just wasn't wired to the pick ups.
The motor was ok.
I hard wired an 8 pin socket an put in a decoder. The loco cost me about 35 euro with an added 30 euro for the socket and decoder.
Gr. Ron
Informative and simple inspires confidence. Always wondered about removing caps and other circuits. Will approach the trader stands at GETS With a new perspective! Thanks Jenny
I wish i could get model trains but holy hell over RM700 for 1 loco and a couple of cars 💀
Yes im Malaysian 🇲🇾
Neat soldering!
what a totally original idea for a video
How trash to track does this weekly
Nobody asked.
@@User-3O3 nobody asked what
My comment was aimed at stuartjohnellis@@supersprinter1564
It reminds me the Peckett I had attempted to hardwire after I had knacked the 4 pins DCC socket... It's a non-runner now, and I will someday try to turn her back into a running model.